The Final Cartwheel
           The Final Cartwheel is
           the story of a young
           doctor’s return home,
           after a five-year
           hitchhiking odyssey
           around the world.
           Through East Asia,
           Indonesia, and around
           the Antipodes, the
           circle becomes
           unbroken.
Slow Boat to China
          But there was one crazy
          son of a bitch on the
          waves that night,
          rocking and rolling in
          bunk #44, who not only
          didn’t seem to care, but
          was as high as a hard-
          winged kite, on a slow
          boat to China.
Songs of the South
          There were Bai women
          carrying loads of straw so
          large you couldn’t see them.
          A dust storm swirled around
          the South Gate, as I tried to
          draw its essence. Edges
          blunted, peaks eroded, stars
          fell, and dream mists
          cleared, like a pocket watch
          melting over a branch of the
          old Banyan tree. In the need
          for my own salvation, I
          found a Salvador in Dali.
The Route of Seeing
           Then they sang, and
           taught me their songs,
           gifted me with film and
           a delicious fish caught
           by one of the regulars,
           and made toasts to me,
           and my odyssey.
           Pausing between clouds
           the moon rests in the
           eyes of its beholders.
Eating the Wind and Moon
             “The stars of the snake look
             familiar.” Said Julia.
             “It’s Orion.” I said. “The Batak
             seasons are regulated by the
             conjunctions of Scorpio with
             the moon, chasing Orion
             across the sky.”
             “That Doctor Winkler was a
             man before his time.” She
             laughed.
             “And this Dr. Winkler may have
             arrived too late.” I said, folding
             the bark accordion book back
             into its carved receptacle, and
             sliding its lid back on.
Coromandel Gold
         We took the dogs for long
         walks over the sand dunes,
         played chess with the many
         Christmas visitors, and went
         fishing with Ron off the
         rocks and surf, smoking the
         kohawai we caught by the
         carload, with the tea tree
         we had cut by the cord.
         Robyn related stories of
         waking in the night to go
         floundering by lamplight.
         We strolled the sunsets on
         the dunes, and ate well.
Sulfur and Molasses
           He took us to what would
           become our new home
           for the next month, a
           modest rancher with a
           central patio overlooking
           the lake. 9 Aquarius Drive.
           “They call this Pill Hill.” He
           said. And he introduced
           us to Ringo, the cat, and
           how to feed the goldfish
           and the video player.
The Waters of Greenstone
             At an altitude approaching
             cobalt, our horizons
             stretched far into the ether
             of the surrounding
             Humboldt ridges and
             ranges. We climbed the
             5000 foot peak of Conical
             Hill and I was back in the
             Nepal, above the clouds,
             reaching out to touch the
             stone cairns and
             snowcapped timeless
             backbone of the universe,
             eye to eye with my soul yet
             one more time.
The Waters of Greenstone
             We descended the western
             aspect sadly, as all descents
             are, stopped for some trail
             mix and an orange, and
             turned onto the track
             southwards, traversing the
             Hollyford face, with
             expansive views out to
             Martins Bay and the Tasman
             Sea. They flanked us on our
             right for the next two hours,
             until we climbed a ridge for
             a vertiginous panorama of
             jade and emerald Lake
             McKenzie...
The Waters of Greenstone
             We made the one o’clock
             sailing of the SS Milford
             Haven, along the steep
             4000 foot cliff faces, the
             fifteen-kilometer length of
             the fiord, past the peaks of
             Mitre and the Elephant and
             the Lion, Stirling and Lady
             Bowen Falls, and hundreds
             of temporary cascades, fed
             by rainwater-drenched
             moss, some never reaching
             the bottom, drifting away in
             the wind, some falling
             skywards in the updrafts.
Glowing Skies
        ...eventually arriving at the
        mast of the Enterprise. We got
        Digby Taylor at the helm, no
        life jackets, and two hours of
        hanging on for dear life - out
        through the rip beyond the
        Foveaux Strait oyster fleet,
        and eight-foot swells around
        Dog Island. My head position,
        in the navigation room picture,
        was at a serious angle. The
        return leg was sixteen knots,
        smooth as silk and blinded
        with sunlight off the port side.
The Wizard of Was
          It was a long way from
          anywhere else in the world
          but for us, it was only nine
          kilometers from the turnoff.
          For the time we waited to
          hook a ride, it may have as
          well been Mars. It was just
          before noon before Leon,
          an agricultural student from
          Wanaka, stopped for just a
          nanosecond, and
          transported us all the way...
The Wizard of Was
          Steve and I checked into motel
          flat number 34, at the
          Glencoe, with spectacular
          sunny views of Mount
          Wakefield and Sebastopol. We
          walked out to Kea Point, to
          find Mt. Cook and Sefton.
          The sun fell behind Aorangi,
          and my dreams became more
          vivid. I had been experiencing
          flashbacks. A healthy
          apprehension about finally
          returning home, had become a
          phobia. For the first time, in
          almost five years of traveling, I
          was apprehensive.
Tiki Tour
      Knowing Steve’s love for
      sailing, Robyn had booked
      us on a two-masted brig
      for the day. The water
      was aquamarine
      perfection, but the old
      salt skipper tore a gash in
      his mainsail, taking us out
      to one of the islands,
      where we climbed a hill,
      and trekked to gather
      mushrooms, for dinner.
Tiki Tour
      After a snapper lunch at
      the pub in Russell, we
      piled back into Nikki’s oil
      leak and drove to the
      sand dunes in overcast
      Opononi, on the south
      shore of the Hokianga
      harbor. We checked into
      the ‘accommodation for
      hitchhikers,’ run by the
      Māori woman on the
      lawnmower.
Voyage of the Taporo
           Miriam had reserved us a
           room, but it wasn't yet
           ready, so we stowed our
           packs, took our croissants
           and jus d’orange across to
           the Mo’orea dock, and
           walked to our patisserie for
           an early morning coffee.
           The day degenerated into
           shopping. I bought a couple
           of Galerie Winker posters
           and some coconut oil soap.

The Final Cartwheel1

  • 1.
    The Final Cartwheel The Final Cartwheel is the story of a young doctor’s return home, after a five-year hitchhiking odyssey around the world. Through East Asia, Indonesia, and around the Antipodes, the circle becomes unbroken.
  • 2.
    Slow Boat toChina But there was one crazy son of a bitch on the waves that night, rocking and rolling in bunk #44, who not only didn’t seem to care, but was as high as a hard- winged kite, on a slow boat to China.
  • 3.
    Songs of theSouth There were Bai women carrying loads of straw so large you couldn’t see them. A dust storm swirled around the South Gate, as I tried to draw its essence. Edges blunted, peaks eroded, stars fell, and dream mists cleared, like a pocket watch melting over a branch of the old Banyan tree. In the need for my own salvation, I found a Salvador in Dali.
  • 4.
    The Route ofSeeing Then they sang, and taught me their songs, gifted me with film and a delicious fish caught by one of the regulars, and made toasts to me, and my odyssey. Pausing between clouds the moon rests in the eyes of its beholders.
  • 5.
    Eating the Windand Moon “The stars of the snake look familiar.” Said Julia. “It’s Orion.” I said. “The Batak seasons are regulated by the conjunctions of Scorpio with the moon, chasing Orion across the sky.” “That Doctor Winkler was a man before his time.” She laughed. “And this Dr. Winkler may have arrived too late.” I said, folding the bark accordion book back into its carved receptacle, and sliding its lid back on.
  • 6.
    Coromandel Gold We took the dogs for long walks over the sand dunes, played chess with the many Christmas visitors, and went fishing with Ron off the rocks and surf, smoking the kohawai we caught by the carload, with the tea tree we had cut by the cord. Robyn related stories of waking in the night to go floundering by lamplight. We strolled the sunsets on the dunes, and ate well.
  • 7.
    Sulfur and Molasses He took us to what would become our new home for the next month, a modest rancher with a central patio overlooking the lake. 9 Aquarius Drive. “They call this Pill Hill.” He said. And he introduced us to Ringo, the cat, and how to feed the goldfish and the video player.
  • 8.
    The Waters ofGreenstone At an altitude approaching cobalt, our horizons stretched far into the ether of the surrounding Humboldt ridges and ranges. We climbed the 5000 foot peak of Conical Hill and I was back in the Nepal, above the clouds, reaching out to touch the stone cairns and snowcapped timeless backbone of the universe, eye to eye with my soul yet one more time.
  • 9.
    The Waters ofGreenstone We descended the western aspect sadly, as all descents are, stopped for some trail mix and an orange, and turned onto the track southwards, traversing the Hollyford face, with expansive views out to Martins Bay and the Tasman Sea. They flanked us on our right for the next two hours, until we climbed a ridge for a vertiginous panorama of jade and emerald Lake McKenzie...
  • 10.
    The Waters ofGreenstone We made the one o’clock sailing of the SS Milford Haven, along the steep 4000 foot cliff faces, the fifteen-kilometer length of the fiord, past the peaks of Mitre and the Elephant and the Lion, Stirling and Lady Bowen Falls, and hundreds of temporary cascades, fed by rainwater-drenched moss, some never reaching the bottom, drifting away in the wind, some falling skywards in the updrafts.
  • 11.
    Glowing Skies ...eventually arriving at the mast of the Enterprise. We got Digby Taylor at the helm, no life jackets, and two hours of hanging on for dear life - out through the rip beyond the Foveaux Strait oyster fleet, and eight-foot swells around Dog Island. My head position, in the navigation room picture, was at a serious angle. The return leg was sixteen knots, smooth as silk and blinded with sunlight off the port side.
  • 12.
    The Wizard ofWas It was a long way from anywhere else in the world but for us, it was only nine kilometers from the turnoff. For the time we waited to hook a ride, it may have as well been Mars. It was just before noon before Leon, an agricultural student from Wanaka, stopped for just a nanosecond, and transported us all the way...
  • 13.
    The Wizard ofWas Steve and I checked into motel flat number 34, at the Glencoe, with spectacular sunny views of Mount Wakefield and Sebastopol. We walked out to Kea Point, to find Mt. Cook and Sefton. The sun fell behind Aorangi, and my dreams became more vivid. I had been experiencing flashbacks. A healthy apprehension about finally returning home, had become a phobia. For the first time, in almost five years of traveling, I was apprehensive.
  • 14.
    Tiki Tour Knowing Steve’s love for sailing, Robyn had booked us on a two-masted brig for the day. The water was aquamarine perfection, but the old salt skipper tore a gash in his mainsail, taking us out to one of the islands, where we climbed a hill, and trekked to gather mushrooms, for dinner.
  • 15.
    Tiki Tour After a snapper lunch at the pub in Russell, we piled back into Nikki’s oil leak and drove to the sand dunes in overcast Opononi, on the south shore of the Hokianga harbor. We checked into the ‘accommodation for hitchhikers,’ run by the Māori woman on the lawnmower.
  • 16.
    Voyage of theTaporo Miriam had reserved us a room, but it wasn't yet ready, so we stowed our packs, took our croissants and jus d’orange across to the Mo’orea dock, and walked to our patisserie for an early morning coffee. The day degenerated into shopping. I bought a couple of Galerie Winker posters and some coconut oil soap.