An article about travel to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and a stay at an inn near Gatlinburg, TN.

1. Paradie
Come see the
B Y S A L LY M O E
Immerse yourself in the natural miracle of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
First
F things fi rst: ditch the iPod. national park in America, luring nearly 10 million guests each year.
But even during periods of high traffic, there are spots throughout
the park where you can feel completely removed from the world—
O therwise, you might miss the ear-caressing music of birdsong,
wind and water.
Next...get on a mountain bike or set off on foot with a hiking
and therein lies an important ingredient of its potent allure. Just
50 feet in from the street and you’re a solitary figure in a soaring
greenspace, misty rain tickling your skin, cloaked in a reverent
stick—Great Smoky Mountains National Park has some 150 walk- silence—except for the sounds of nature and your own breathing.
ing trails to choose from, for just about every fitness level.
Now, take a moment. Let the forest close in around
A spa for the soul. Eight hundred miles of trails criss-
cross the 521,000-acre park and lead to chatter-hushing overlooks,
you. Savor the dappled, endlessly unfolding glowy-green landscape, secluded waterfalls and primitive, historic old structures begging to
and breathe deep the rich perfume of wet moss, ferns and woods. be poked through. Six of these trails lead to the park’s only lodg-
Hear the Little Pigeon River roar from a recent downpour, as it ing—the rustic Mount LeConte Lodge, atop Mount LeConte, the
sends yelping kayakers on a rollicking ride. third-highest mountain in the Smokies. The lodge can only be
Straddling eastern Tennessee and northwestern North Caro- reached by trail—but the views it affords and the singular expe-
lina, and bisected by the Appalachian Trail, this is the most visited rience of staying there make it worth the effort, borne out by the
Birders Flocking to Tennessee B Y A M Y ST E V E N S
Peregrine falcon
From Graceland to the Grand Ole Opry, Divisions—the Mississippi floodplain in the
from Beale Street to Dollywood, Tennessee is west, the Cumberland Plateau in the central
a state defined by songs and the singers who part of the state and the Appalachian moun-
sing them. tains in the east—so birders have the oppor-
It’s really no surprise, then, that Mother tunity to travel the whole length of the state
Nature’s feathered crooners—and their two- and see very different kinds of birds.”
legged fans—are flocking to the Volunteer All told, Tennessee has seven distinct areas
State in droves. In fact, Tennessee is gaining identified as globally important bird areas by
recognition nationwide as a premier birding the American Bird Conservancy.
destination. At the top of Tennessee’s birding destina-
“Really, Tennessee is one of the birding tions is Reelfoot Lake. Located in the state’s
hot spots in the United States,” says Virginia northwest corner, the 25,000-acre lake is a
Reynolds, president of the Tennessee Ornitho- favorite wintering spot for hundreds of Ameri-
logical Society. “We’ve got the three Grand can bald eagles.
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2. Bucharest, Romania
Photos by Sally Moe
fact that reservations tend to fill up a year in advance. Pack trains of
llamas bring in provisions three times a week via the Trillium Gap
Trail; the lodge has no phone, showers or electricity. But after one
clear night of stars unobstructed by light pollution, you might find
yourself wondering why electricity was even invented.
Just outside Gatlinburg (which presses against the northern bor-
der of the park), my accommodations at the Four-Diamond Eight
Gables Inn are not nearly so rustic. No hiking is required to get there
and the plush bathing facilities are downright spa-worthy. There’s a
remote-controlled faux fireplace at the foot of the bed and a screened
porch that looks out on the sheltering woods that embrace the
inn. It’s an ideal location—scenic and accessible, yet removed from
Gatlinburg’s kitschy hustle and flow—perfect for a refreshing break
from the day’s explorations.
Such explorations include the eight-mile auto loop of Great
Smoky Arts & Crafts Community shops, designated a Tennessee
Heritage Arts & Crafts Trail. The loop showcases 100 local art-
ists and craftspeople, reportedly the largest group of independent
artisans in the United States. (FYI, between April and December,
the Gatlinburg mini-trolleys will take you there for about a buck.) Clockwise from left:
Our visit hardly does it justice—that could take days—yet we still Floral bounty on the grounds of the
browse all manner of Americana, folkloric art, Appalachian crafts, Eight Gables Inn; the hammock beck-
Photo by Sally Moe
ons from Eight Gables’ front porch;
paintings, lamps, furniture, toys, jewelry, quilts and wearable art. a moment of sunshine deep in Great
Thankfully, taverns, tearooms and cafés are scattered throughout Smoky Mountains National Park.
Thousands of visitors make their way to northeast corner, Roan Mountain, eleva-
Reelfoot each January, February and March tion 6,285 feet, is a birder’s paradise. From
for a chance at an up-close look at the bald northern saw-whet owls and alder flycatch-
eagles, as well as golden eagles, numerous ers to pine siskins and golden-winged war-
species of ducks and a wide variety of shore blers, the Roan plays host to a dazzling array
and wading birds. of species throughout the year.
“Reelfoot is a highlight for any birder,” And the Great Smoky Mountains National
Reynolds said. Park, located near Knoxville, is home to more
Another popular Tennessee birding des- Golden-winged warbler than 230 species of birds, including nearly
tination can be found in the southeastern 120 species that breed in the park. Com-
portion of the state. The Hiwassee Wildlife The Hiwassee refuge provides ample oppor- mon birds of the Smokies include dark-eyed
Refuge in Meigs County is the site of the tunity for viewing not only sandhill cranes but juncos, chimney swifts, eastern phoebes,
internationally known Sandhill Crane View- also waterfowl, bald and golden eagles and towhees and peregrine falcons. Because the
ing Days, an annual event that each Febru- even the occasional whooping crane. crest of the Smokies rises nearly a mile above
ary celebrates the migration of thousands of In East Tennessee, it is the mountains that the foothills, the national park offers a pleth-
sandhill cranes through the region. beckon both birds and birders. In the state’s ora of differing habitats for birds.
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3. Photos by Sally Moe
From left: A scenic spot off a winding park road; a lush rose on Eight Gables’ front
porch; kayakers maneuver into the strapping currents of the Little Pigeon River.
the loop for caffeine-enriched, rib-sticking sustenance. Such aero-
bic shopping can wear a body out.
But not for long. In weather that vacillates between
fitful sunlight and a delicate rain, we hook up with a real-life Yoda
of the wilderness, Vesna Plakanis, co-founder with husband Erik of
“A Walk in the Woods,” a nature-guide service based in Gatlinburg.
Vesna—young, fit, and armed with walking sticks, umbrellas and
bottled water—guides us along a broad path in the Greenbrier area
of the park, and infects us with her deep love of these woods. After
pointing out a patch of poison ivy, she tells us about jewelweed—a
plant that eases the itching brought on by poison ivy, and often can
be found growing in its vicinity (et voilà). She shows us evidence of
an abandoned beehive and discusses the proliferation of tulip trees.
And without her prompting, we might have overlooked the rem-
nants of an old homestead, nearly swallowed up and reclaimed by
the lush vegetation. Vesna is a font of information and her every
answer gives birth to another question. The hike is over too soon.
Not to worry. Back at the inn, that massive hammock on
Photo by Sally Moe
the front porch is unoccupied at the moment. There’s still time before
afternoon tea to sink in for a spell...and watch the bird channel. ■
So many birds can be seen and heard Other popular Tennessee birding des-
during a trek through the Tennessee moun- tinations:
tains that local birders often call their bird • Big South Fork National River and Rec-
walks “hiking with a soundtrack.” reation Area: Located in Oneida, this sprawl- The bald eagle, America’s symbol
“The sheer diversity of species that can ing recreation area is home to multiple
be spotted in Tennessee is amazing,” says species, including numerous warblers, spar- an outstanding environment for numerous
Bryan Stevens, a Tennessee resident who rows and hawks. The eastern meadowlark, woodland birds. Common birds here include
authors a syndicated newspaper column pine warbler and red-shouldered hawk are pileated woodpeckers, cerulean warblers
on birding called Feathered Friends. “For among the permanent residents, while sea- and ruby-crowned kinglets.
both the part-time hobbyist and the seri- sonal visitors include the northern harrier, • Musick’s Campground: Situated on
ous birder, Tennessee is an exciting place evening grosbeak, black-and-white warbler the shores of South Holston Lake in North-
to visit. and American redstart. east Tennessee’s Sullivan County, this camp-
“There are wonderful, unusual birds to • Frozen Head State Park and Natural ground is one of Tennessee’s best-kept bird-
be found all across the state. Very few bird- Area: Nestled in the Cumberland Mountains ing secrets. Numerous birding rarities have
ers come here without adding at least a near Wartburg, this state park is a favorite been spotted here, including the great white
bird or two to their life list.” of birders. An elevation of 3,324 feet creates heron, eared grebe and ruddy turnstone.
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