1. THE SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE
May 23, 1993
A Mediterranean Setting With Sophisticated Fare
PATRICIA UNTERMAN, CHRONICLE RESTAURANT CRITIC
WHEN HOTELIER Jim Nassikas was building the Stanford Court Hotel in 1972, he wanted the restaurant in
it to have an identity of its own, distinctly different from the typical luxury hotel dining room. He installed a
massive, European- style gas- and wood-burning roasting oven covered with hand-painted Portuguese tiles
as the focal point. Instead of decorating with the usual miles of carpeting, drapery and upholstery, he put in a
Mediterranean tile floor, rustic wooden tables and stucco walls. He named the restaurant after the cooking
equipment, Fournou's Ovens, and in many ways anticipated restaurant trends that were to come.
The first chefs at Fournou's Ovens were Europeans who turned out elegant, pricey menus not unlike those in
the best hotel dining rooms. Then, in 1988, Larry Vito was appointed head chef. He brought a modern
American/ Southwest sensibility to the restaurant that lit things up. Along with American pastry guru Jim
Dodge, Vito finally gave Fournou's Ovens a life of its own.
Vito left in 1992, shortly after Stouffer bought the hotel, and now Colorado-born, Culinary Institute of
America-trained chef Ercolino Crugnale is at the helm. His vision of a first-class hotel dining
room reverts to Fournou's Ovens' original style, but he knows how to take advantage of the expanded
marketplace, and how to incorporate interesting ideas into his cooking.
Two appetizers currently on the menu show what this chef can do. He captured the essence of delicate spring
peas in a very rich, but very rewarding spring pea soup ($6), a creamy puree studded with bits of foie gras
and wild mushrooms. Equally delicious was a plate of whole baby vegetables in a haunting broth with
ethereal though garlicky ricotta gnocchi ($7), sprinkled with truffle oil. I would make a stop at Fournou's
Ovens for this work of magic alone.
Several others were not as artful. Roasted asparagus, morels and baby leeks with field greens ($8) turned out
to be cold vegetables on cold puff pastry surrounded by saffron oil, a rather strange presentation. An
artichoke risotto ($8) with salty taleggio cheese and prosciutto was made even saltier by brined, tart
artichokes.
For main courses, look to the oven. The chefs who are stationed there really know how to cook lamb, as
evidenced by two double rack chops ($28) that were meltingly tender and juicy in an intense pinot-noir and
thyme jus. Tender green and yellow wax beans and an irresistible jack cheese-potato gratin make the chops
the star of the menu. A huge, thick pork chop ($16) also does nicely in the oven, though not as spectacularly
as medium- rare lamb. The 4-inch chop comes with a light, tasty cornmeal spoon bread studded with sun-
dried cherries and pecans, and juicy asparagus.
From the grill comes a moist, flavorful hunk of swordfish ($21) with a spritely mango vinaigrette and spring
rolls stuffed with snow peas, a clean-yet-luscious combination. Everything was inspired in a presentation of
Chilean sea bass ($16.50) on a bed of horseradish mashed potatoes and greens in a smoked bacon broth,
except for the slippery-textured, bland fish.
The unconventional, descending layout of Fournou's Ovens' dining room creates romantic and intimate nooks
for tables. One night we ate in the cozy oven room by a huge pillar hung with dried chilies; on another, we
dined in a glassed-in conservatory decorated with palms and a view of the city. (Fournou's Ovens is one of

2. the few restaurants in the city that offers smart, private dining rooms for parties of eight to 24.) However, the
long length of the divided dining room might be the cau se of some service problems. On every visit, the
dining room felt understaffed -- both at brunch, when we were one of the only parties in the conservatory, and
at dinner, when it was busy.
At brunch, bread, water and coffee were hard to come by. At dinner one night, glasses and plates were
crashing onto the tile floors all during the meal, orders were slow to be taken, wine
arrived after the first course was served and we were seated a half-hour later than our reservation.
The Stanford Court used to be a favorite brunch destination of mine, because of Vito's southwestern breakfast
dishes. They have not been kept in repertory, and dishes in the same vein that I have tasted have not been
successful. Huevos Rancheros ($19) came on a bed of pork mole topped with tart tomatillo salsa all placed on
tough, inedible tortillas. The different parts of the dish did not meld. Neither did the elements of perfectly
poached eggs on crab cakes ($23) ruined by too much lemon peel, napped in lemony hollandaise, all set on
asparagus. It seemed to me as if no one in the kitchen actually had eaten these dishes, because these were
flaws that easily could be corrected.
Also, the price of brunch has gone up because you cannot order a la carte anymore. The price of the brunch
entree includes a glass of juice squeezed too far in advance, a basket of fresh, house- baked breads and
pastries, and an appetizer. One of the best brunch starters is a yogurt-granola parfait layered with fresh
berries. Once you finish this pretty-looking thing, drink your juice and indulge in a pecan roll, you can barely
manage the meal to come. If you start with something even more substantial, such as battered and deep-fried
apple and banana fritters with raspberry sauce, you already have had breakfast.
Desserts can be sublime, such as intensely sweet macadamia nut shortcakes with mango ice cream and
strawberry compote ($7) and praline ice cream pie ($6.75) topped with an inch of sugary meringue, sitting in
a pool of caramel rum sauce. They can also be a bit too fussy, such as an orange-cardamom creme brulee with
chocolate and Grand Marnier sauce ($7).
The new chef is capable of some very sophisticated and delicious cooking, but so much is done with each
dish that the whole meal can lose its focus. After a full dinner at Fournou's Ovens, you walk out holding your
stomach. The food has been so rich, and so inviting, you are tempted to eat a lot. But the sum of it all may not
add up to a feasible culinary bottom line.
.
FOURNOU'S OVENS
In the Stouffer Stanford Court Hotel, 905 California Street, at Powell, San Francisco. 989-1910.
Open for breakfast 6:30 to 11 p.m. and lunch 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner 5:30 to 10
p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; brunch 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Saturday and Sunday. Full bar. All major credit cards. Reservations accepted.
-----------------------------
CHART:
OVERALL:
TWO AND A HALF STARS

3. Food:
TWO AND A HALF STARS
Service:
ONE AND A HALF STARS
Atmosphere:
THREE STARS
.
PRICES:
$$$
PLUSES: An unconventional hotel dining room that looks
like a Mediterranean villa, superb roast lamb and vegetables with
ricott a gnocchi
MINUSES: MINUSES
Service can be slow and disjointed; brunch dishes
need some attention
---------------------------------------------------
RATINGS KEY
FOUR STARS: Extraordinary
THREE STARS: Excellent
TWO STARS: Very good
ONE STAR: Good
(box): Fair
.
$ Inexpensive: entrees under $7
$$ Moderate: $7-$14
$$$ Expensive: $15-$20
$$$$ Very Expensive: $20+