Chef Freny Fernandes recently opened a dessert bar called Moner in Mumbai that focuses on fashionable European-style sweets. She aims to bring the popular concept of dessert bars seen in places like Bali and London to India. Her desserts have a refined flair due to her training under Michelin-star chefs in New York and Copenhagen. Fernandes strives to offer a Michelin-star experience through beautifully plated artistic desserts and a degustation menu inspired by nature.
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Raising the dessert bar
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Raising the dessert bar
Fashion-forward sweets are Chef Freny Fernandes’ forte at her Mumbai bistro-style
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Published: 14th March 2021 05:00 AM | Last Updated: 12th March 2021 04:51 PM
A display of her desserts
Monday, March,
15, 2021 03:39:12
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https://www.newindianexpress.com/lifestyle/food/2021/mar/14/raising-the-dessert-bar-227540…
By Shilpi Madan
5 min read
Raising the dessert bar
A display of her desserts
Express News Service
I love baking kaffir lime croissants. I developed the penchant for these while I was working at
Restaurant Daniel, in New York,” says Freny Fernandes, the petite chef who recently set up a
dessert bar, Moner, in a leafy Bandra lane in Mumbai.
In shades of salmon and teal, and warm light fixtures, the pastries here are delicious. “Dessert
bars are extremely popular in Bali, London, NYC... and I wanted to bring the concept to
India,” she smiles. Moner is a result of a clever blend of her parents’ names—Monica and
Peter. The desserts at the bar woo you with their refined European flair. It’s because of
Fernandes’ French fixation that developed because of her internships under Michelin-star
2. By Shilpi Madan
Express News Service
I love baking kaffir lime croissants. I developed the penchant for these while I was
working at Restaurant Daniel, in New York,” says Freny Fernandes, the petite chef
who recently set up a dessert bar, Moner, in a leafy Bandra lane in Mumbai.
In shades of salmon and teal, and warm light fixtures, the pastries here are
delicious. “Dessert bars are extremely popular in Bali, London, NYC... and I wanted
to bring the concept to India,” she smiles. Moner is a result of a clever blend of her
parents’ names—Monica and Peter. The desserts at the bar woo you with their
refined European flair. It’s because of Fernandes’ French fixation that developed
because of her internships under Michelin-star chefs.
“I have learnt tremendously from my experience at the prized restaurant Daniel in
New York and Noma in Copenhagen. I believe we are not quite there with our pastry
in India, as yet,” she says. “There needs to be an equal emphasis on plating. Each
dessert is like a work of art for me, it must be perfect.” In a heartbeat, her fingers fly
about and she plates Dawn in the Meadows a light, luminous and citrusy green
apple and kaffir lime sweet with mini meringue kisses and sliced green apple. “In
nature, we thrive, that is why my creations are inspired by nature in the special
dessert degustation menu that I have created. You can choose between three, or five
courses,” says Fernandes, passion shining in her eyes.
Walk through the Woods arrives as a gleaming chocolate
coulant with chocolate ganache, warm liquid caramel
centre, crackling cocoa tuile, and a carefully arranged
quenelle of coffee ice-cream. “I want to offer a Michelin-
star experience in a bistro styled space,” she says, looking
up momentarily as she crafts her next showstopper called
the Phases of the Moon, which presents an elegant crescent
sprawl with Earl Grey gelato, berry coulis, chocolate
ganache, and soil. The skilful and smooth element of sheer
panache runs through every minute detail at Moner,
including the compact menu dissertation, probably rooted in Fernandes’ bachelor’s
degree in mass communications from St Xavier’s College in Mumbai.
Freny Fernandes
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3. Fernandes began working at JW Sahar in Mumbai with one of the best hands in the
pastry business, Chef Santosh Rawat. “I learnt many life skills here, especially
perfecting the crepes and waffles,” she says. “Though it was a tougher, more
challenging time in New York, there was no discrimination on the basis of my
gender. Everyone is treated on an equal footing there. My French mentors have
been tough taskmasters, but my learning has been tremendous.”
Fernandes studied at The Culinary Institute of America, and then entered Chef
Daniel Boulud’s tutelage at his three Michelin-starred Restaurant Daniel in
Manhattan. His Epicerie Boulud figured next on Fernandes’ list, followed by the
culinary treatise at the legendary French fine dine Restaurant Paul Bocuse. She
continued to make a mark through her desserts at the plush Four Seasons at
Disneyworld in Florida. Though admittedly, her crowning glory appeared in the
moment actor Priyanka Chopra posed against the towering Croquembouche that
Fernandes had created as part of the team at Patisserie Boulud that crafted desserts
for Tiffany Blue Box Cafe.
“I spotted pictures of her bridal shower on Instagram against the cream puff tower
we had spent hours on and was thrilled,” the 25-year-old says, having had no idea
whom the towering three-tiered cake of sweet, crisp choux pastries was for when
she eased it into the delivery van. The desserts at Moner deliver goodness. All her
clients are equally important. “I make use of the best ingredients,” she says, as she
plates her masterpiece in the cosy space at the back of the dessert bar.
Back to Jardin du Rose, which is rose and raspberry parfait shaped into a rose
nestling with pistachio air cake, baklava, drop meringues and sweet edible
flowers. What’s next? “Wine and dessert pairings,” she says. As an astute chef, she
has her eye on the commercials: Moner morphs from a bistro by day, serving small
plates, and pretty desserts in caramel apples, Religieuse, lemon meringues,
chocolate mousse and strawberry cream tarts, to a dessert bar by 7 pm.
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