2. Flat Patternmaking Process
Working
pattern:
•Any pattern used
as a base for
manipulation
when generating
design patterns.
Pattern plot:
•Placing lines on a
traced copy of the
working pattern
relating directly to
the design
features. The lines
are used as
guidelines for
pattern
manipulation.
Pattern
manipulation:
•Slashing and
spreading or
pivoting a pattern
to alter its original
shape.
•The new pattern
shape represents
design features of
the garment.
Test fit:
•A process where
fitting problems
are located and
corrected.
Design
pattern:
•The finished
pattern that
contains all the
features related to
the design.
3. Three Flat Patternmaking Principles
Design analysis
• Identifying which principles
and techniques to apply
– to develop correct pattern
shapes
– Result: 3D replica of the
design
Major Principles
• #1 Dart manipulation
– (relocating darts)
• #2 Adding fullness
– (adding more fabric in the
design)
• #3 Contouring
– (fitting to the hollows of a
model's figure)
4. Principle #1 Dart Manipulation
• Changing the location
of a dart within the
pattern frame.
• REMEMBER:
– The dart is responsible
for fit
– The dart will ALWAYS be
part of the design in one
form or another
5. Principle #2 Added Fullness
• Applies when design
fullness is greater than
the dart excess can
provide.
• Added fullness is not
directed to the pivotal
point (bust).
• Adding to the pattern's
outline also indicates
that added material is
needed for the design.
6. Principle #3 Contouring
• Fitting to the contour
above, below, and
between the bust,
leaving the dart excess
to be absorbed into
stylelines or gathers.
• Gapping ease caused by
cutout neck lines and
armholes is transferred
to be absorbed.
8. How to Manipulate Darts
• Two methods (same result)
– Pivot
– Slash & spread
• Pivot point:
– Designated point on the
pattern (e.g. bust point).
– Pattern is slashed to, or
pivoted from, this point.
– Allows dart to be moved
without changing the
pattern’s size or fit.
• Dart point
• Dart leg
• Dart intake
9. Corollary to Principle #1—Dart
Equivalent
• A dart can be converted
into:
– Pleats
– Tuck-darts
– Gathers
• functions as a dart
• fit is not adversely
affected
10. Demonstration of Principle #1 Dart
Manipulation: Bodices (Ch. 4):
Front Bodices:
• 1. Single-dart manipulation
– (slash and spread)
– Mid-Shoulder Dart p. 79
• 2. Single-dart manipulation
– (pivot)
– Side Dart p.82
• 3. Double-dart manipulation
– (slash and spread)
– Mid-Shoulder and Waist Dart p. 92
• 4. Double-dart manipulation
– (pivot)
– Shoulder-Tip and Waist Dart p. 95
Back Bodices:
• 5. Shoulder Dart Multi-
dispersion p. 85
• 6. Back Neck Dart p. 86
• 7. Dart Excess Transferred to
Armhole p. 86
12. Flexibility of Skirt Darts
• Darts may be
– Pivoted
– Combined
– Converted into dart
equivalents
• Pleats
• Tuck darts
• Gathers
13. Skirt Dart Manipulation
• Transferring dart excess
to hemline
– A-line skirt
• One dart converted to
flare
– Flared skirt
• Two darts converted to
flare
14. Demonstration of Principle #1 Dart
Manipulation: Skirts (pgs. 230 – 244)
Front and Back Skirts:
• 1. Curved Darts p. 233
• 2. One Dart p. 243
• 3. A-line Flared p. 239-240
– (slash and spread)
• 4. Flared p. 244
– (pivot)
Example: Combined Dart (One
Dart)
15. Review Question
• What is a principle?
– A changeable fact
– A fact that does not
change
– The head of a school
– All are correct
• A fact that does not
change
16. Review Question
• What is a corollary?
– Capillaries
– A type of fabric
– An adjunct to a principle
– All are correct
• An adjunct to a
principle
17. Review Question
• What is the primary
purpose of a dart?
– To create designs
– It has no purpose
– To cause fitting problems
– To take up unneeded
excess
• To take up unneeded
excess
18. Review Question
• Where do basic darts
usually appear?
– Dominant areas of the
figure
– Wherever creative effect
is needed
– No particular location
– Everywhere
• Dominant areas of the
figure
19. Review Question
• Where is the dart
excess located in basic
casual garments?
– Hemline
– Neckline
– Armhole
– Dart is ignored
• Armhole
20. Review Question
• In what direction does
the side dart excess lay?
– Upward
– No particular direction
– Downward
– All directions are correct
• Downward
21. Review Question
• What is a dart point?
– Damage in the fabric
– The end of a stitched
dart
– There is no such point
– The same thing as a bust
point
• The end of a stitched
dart
22. Review Question
• What is a dart
equivalent?
– It has no meaning
– More excess than
needed
– It functions as a dart
– Multiple darts
• It functions as a dart
