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By Jefferson kolle
The ­Passive House
Green Without Gizmos
Three requirements make it simple
The standard is strict
(it’s German, after all),
and the performance
numbers are very low.
Unlike other programs
that have multiple cri-
teria for certification,
the Passive House
focuses on just three
things: air infiltration,
Btu consumption, and kwh usage. The new energy-efficiency
section of the International Residential Code (IRC) deals only
with air infiltration, and the government’s Energy Star pro-
gram, while more strict than the IRC, is still a long way from
the Passive House standard. Here’s the nitty gritty.
“Use less energy” is the mantra of a stringent
German building standard that’s catching on
Air infiltration
The Passive House standard for air infiltration can be
no greater than 0.6 air changes per hour (ACH) at 50
pascals, which means the house is virtually airtight. The IRC’s
current ­energy code requires 7 ACH at 50 pascals. Energy Star
requires less than 5 or 6 ACH, depending on the climate zone.
Btu consumption
The annual energy use for heating and cooling can-
not exceed 4755 Btu per sq. ft. annually. The average
new home built to current code consumes nearly 10 times that
amount. Energy Star has requirements for appliances and
mechanical systems that can still amount to nearly eight times
the Passive House requisite.
Energy usage
The maximum total energy use of the house, which
includes heating, cooling, and electricity, cannot
exceed 11.1 kwh per sq. ft. While there are no specific energy-
use standards for code-built and Energy Star homes, estimates
put their usage around 30 kwh and 20 kwh, respectively.
P
assive House is a performance-
based building standard that can
result in a house that consumes as
little as 10% of the total heating
and cooling energy used by a house built to
the 2006 building code. If you’re an architect
or builder, imagine the reaction you’ll get
from clients when you tell them that you can
either build a house that uses energy by the
dollar or one that uses it by the dime.
To achieve their impressively low levels of
energyconsumption,certifiedPassiveHouses
rely on proper solar orientation, an airtight
envelope, lots of insulation, mechanical ven-
tilation, and the reuse of heat.
Designing and building a Passive House
requires using proprietary energy-load soft-
ware aimed at keeping energy use low and
includes construction that can be painstak-
ing. A flubbed detail can mean the difference
between reaching the standard or not.
Lower lifetime energy use
The Passive House standard was devel-
oped in Germany (where it’s known as
“Passivhaus”) in 1996 by physicist Wolf-
gang Feist, who was inspired by and fully
acknowledges the influence of the ground-
breaking, superinsulated houses built in the
United States and Canada in the 1970s. In
this country, Feist’s work has been cham-
pioned by German-born architect Katrin
Klingenberg, who started the Passive House
Institute US, also known as PHIUS (www
.passivehouse.us) in Urbana, Ill.
Upwards of 20,000 Passive Houses have
been built in Europe, and while there are
fewer than two dozen in this country, there
are many on the drawing board, and the
Photos this page and facing page: courtesy of Craig Buttner. www.finehomebuilding.comFINE HOMEBUILDING48 april/may 2010 49
Massive
but passive
This house on Martha’s Vineyard goes
a long way toward dispelling the myth
that a Passive House will, by matter
of course, look more like an institu-
tion than a cozy dwelling. Beyond the
beautiful design lie the hallmarks of
a Passive House: an R-35 basement,
R-45 walls, and an R-62 roof, along
with triple-glazed windows, minimal
heating and cooling equipment, and
energy bills to match.
Location: Martha’s Vineyard, Mass.
Architect: Craig L. Buttner—Architect
P.C., Boston (www.clbarchitecture.com)
Builder: Clancy Construction (www
.lclancy.com)
Passive House consultant:
Katrin Klingenberg, PHIUS
Size: 4000 sq. ft.
Annual heating/cooling cost: $400-$600
software-generated number that predicts a
house’s energy based on its design.
Houses built to the 2006 International
Energy Conservation Code (IECC) score a
100 on the HERS index. Energy Star and
LEED homes can’t surpass 80 or 85, depend-
ing on their climate zone. Net-zero homes
score the lowest, at 0. A Passive House scores
between 20 and 30 on the HERS index.
While a net-zero house may use less total
energy than a Passive House, it achieves that
score by adding energy made with alterna-
tive-energy sources into the calculations.
The Passive House standard disallows site-
generated alternative-energy sources in its
computations and relies instead solely on its
low energy consumption. As Klingenberg
notes, “A Passive House can become a net-
zero house with the addition of a very small
renewable-energy system.” The standard
doesn’t change from one location to another,
but the way a house is built does.
Lose—no, use—almost no heat
To lower energy consumption to this degree,
a house must be airtight, superinsulated,
without thermal bridging (see “How It
Works,” pp. 16-17), equipped with a heat-
or energy-recovery ventilation system and
ultra-high-performance doors and windows,
and designed for passive-solar and internal-
heat gains.
Starting at the foundations, Passive Houses
employ a massive amount of insulation,
upwards of 16 in. of rigid foam, between the
ground and the concrete slab. Exterior-wall
systems, which are as thick as 16 in., can be
built with double-stud 2x4s or 2x6s, or verti-
cal I-joists used as studs. In some climates,
insulated concrete forms (ICFs), structural
insulated panels (SIPs), and even straw-bale
walls have been used. Roof systems are typi-
cally framed with I-joists of varying depths.
Because of their air-permeability, fiberglass
batts are not often used. Preferred choices
are dense-pack fiberglass and cellulose, and
polystyrene and spray-foam insulations.
Passive House builders spend a lot of time
air-sealing. Brad Holmes and his brother,
Kurt, recently finished building a Passive
House in Duluth, Minn. (The house will
soon earn a LEED platinum rating.) “We
caulked every location where wood meets
wood,” Holmes says. The house underwent
three blower-door tests before the drywall
was hung just to make sure all the leaks had
movement has gained converts quickly as
energy prices have increased.
Armed with the mantra “First, use less
energy,” Passive House advocates say that
rather than getting hung up on the amount
of energy it takes to build a home, it is more
important to look at how much energy the
home will use during its lifetime. Statistics
differ, but on average, a typical code-built
house will use 10 times more energy to heat,
cool, and operate its various systems for 40
years than the amount used to build it.
To get an idea of how little energy a Pas-
sive House uses, it helps to look at the Home
Energy Rating System (HERS) index, a
Closed-cell
spray foam
Closed-cell
spray foamTermite-shield
copper flashing
16-in.-deep
rafter cavities
filled with
dense-pack
cellulose
Tyvek taped to
underside of
roof sheathing
3/4-in. CDX
plywood
top plate
2x6 exterior wall,
24 in. on center
Dense-pack
cellulose
Dense-pack
cellulose
2x4 interior
wall, 24 in.
on center
2x4 interior
basement wall
16-in. I-joist
This airtight
drywall technique,
which calls on
caulk to seal
every perimeter
of the interior
walls, keeps air
from escaping to
the outside and
throughout the
house, yielding a
more balanced air
pressure inside.
XPS rigid-foam
insulation
XPS rigid-foam
insulation
3
⁄4-in. subfloor
4-in. concrete slab
3
⁄4-in. XPS rigid-foam
insulation
2x8 pressure-
treated sill plate
atop sill seal
91⁄2-in. I-joist
Tyvek wrapped around
the rim joists and
incorporated into the
airtight drywall eliminates
air infiltration at a home’s
most leak-prone area.
12-in.-thick
double-
stud walls
eliminate
thermal
bridging
above the
foundation.
Rafter tails cut flush with the
exterior wall eliminate thermal
bridging and make air-sealing
details more effective.
Roof
R-value
62
Wall
R-value
45
Slab
R-value
34
Basement
Wall
R-value
35
A Passive House is set carefully on
the site to maximize solar gain,
but solar orientation goes only so
far toward achieving the Passive
House Institute’s performance
requirements. A well-insulated
envelope that’s virtually airtight
is the real news here. Building
thick walls, incorporating airtight
drywall techniques, and care-
fully detailing housewrap are a
few ways builders and designers
achieve these goals. Mechanical
ventilation is a must, of course,
as are triple-pane windows. Elimi-
nating thermal bridging is also
important. To achieve certifica-
tion, building designers start with
a building envelope much like the
one shown here.
The envelope
makes it possible
Photo: courtesy of Craig Buttner. Drawing facing page: John Hartman.
2-in. closed-cell
spray foam
FINE HOMEBUILDING50 April/may 2010 51
Triple-pane windows
are a must, but not a
requirement
Although they’re not required, triple-
glazed windows like the ones shown here
from Unilux (www.unilux.de) are strongly
recommended for cold-climate Passive
Houses. Available from both German and
Canadian manufacturers, windows with
triple glazing and insulated frames have a
low U-factor yet still provide enough solar
gain to allow a house to meet the Passive
House standard.
Although some manufacturers go so
far as to have their windows certified by
the Passive House Institute, the standard
allows the use of uncertified windows.
Good triple-glazed windows aren’t cheap.
Canadian windows cost $40 to $50 per
sq. ft., while German windows cost up to
$100 per sq. ft.
Whether German or Canadian, the best
triple-glazed windows gain more heat
than they lose. From an energy perspec-
tive, these windows perform better than
an insulated wall.
—Martin Holladay is a senior editor at
­GreenBuildingAdvisor.com.
work, see “How It Works,” FHB #205 and
online at FineHomebuilding.com).
Windows and doors have always been
a weak link in energy-efficient buildings,
but major improvements have led to the
development of triple-pane windows with an
extremely low U-factor. Historically, Euro-
pean windows have been more efficient than
thosemadeinthiscountry,butsomeCanadian
and U.S. manufacturers have started making
windows with U-factors as low as 0.13.
Because Passive Houses are superinsulated
and airtight, heat loss is kept to a minimum.
The buildings don’t often require a tradi-
tional central-heating system (the savings
from which can offset some of the extra costs
associated with building to the standard).
Instead, they rely on solar gain and the heat
produced by electrical equipment and the
occupants, as well as the recycled heat from
HRVs. Supplemental heat sources, such as
a few feet of electric-resistance baseboard,
electric heat mats in bathroom floors, even
domestic water heaters, can fulfill the need
for any additional heat on the coldest days.
Passive Houses are designed to maximize
solar-heat gain when and where it is wanted,
and minimize that gain when and where it
is not. Passive House design also maximizes
the amount of natural lighting in a building,
which makes for more pleasant living spaces
while reducing artificial-lighting costs.
Software minimizes guesswork
Not surprisingly, planning a Passive House
involves no guesswork; rather, it’s based on
an energy-modeling program called the Pas-
sive House Planning Package (PHPP).
The program calculates by taking into
account almost every aspect of a house,
including the site’s weatherpatternsandsolar
orientation; the type of construction and the
materials used; the window designs and loca-
tions; the ventilation-system design; and the
total loads of appliances, lighting, and other
mechanicals. PHPP will even predict the fin-
ished home’s carbon-dioxide emissions.
AdamCohenisanarchitectwhosecompany,
Structures Design/Build, in Roanoke, Va.,
has been building energy-conscious houses
for 25 years. He thinks the PHPP software
has an “amount of specificity that is much
more precise” than other modeling programs
he has used, which, he says, “makes it easy to
fudge some of the details.” The precision of
the program allows the user to make small
design changes and immediately see how
they affect the building’s energy use.
Getting accredited
Unlike some of the energy-efficient build-
ing programs—LEED and NAHB Green,
for example—the Passive House standard
doesn’t assign a rating or use a point system
for the materials and methods used during
construction. Instead, the Passive House
standard is based wholly on a building’s per-
formance. If a house meets the standard, it is
considered to be a Passive House.
Not surprisingly, the steps needed for
accreditation are regimented, and although
only three are required, many more are rec-
ommended. It is not mandatory to work
with a trained consultant when building a
Passive House, but in the long run, it’ll be
quicker, easier, and less expensive than doing
it on your own.
Precertification starts at the planning stage;
all specifications are reviewed to make cer-
tain that no major errors exist.
After the house is built, but before the walls
are insulated, blower-door tests are done to
ensure the airtightness meets the Passive
House standard. As Holmes pointed out, the
first test reveals leaks that can be corrected
while the walls are open. After a crew tracks
down and fixes them, a second or even third
test occurs.
Contractors are required to submit “as-
built” photographs to PHIUS that show the
house was built to the specifications agreed
upon during the precertification stage. Along
with the photos, the general contractor has
to submit a declaration that guarantees the
house was built as planned.
Finally,alastblower-doortestisperformed.
If the house passes the 0.6-air-changes-per-
hour grade, a certificate is issued by PHIUS
that says the building is a Passive House.
Thecostofcertificationdependsonwhether
you’ve used a Passive House consultant
throughout the project. If you haven’t used
one, you’ll probably need to hire one to walk
you through the processes and the software
at the going rate of about $150 per hour. But
if you’ve used a consultant, or become one
yourself, the cost is under $1000.
There are several reasons why the pioneer-
ing energy-efficient houses of the past cen-
tury didn’t catch on. Politics played a part, as
did the limitations of the technologies of the
time, which, fortunately, have been surpassed
by today’s better windows, doors, and venti-
lation systems. The arguments for reducing
houses’ energy use were certainly valid in
1974 when architect Wayne Schick coined
the term “superinsulation.” Thirty-five years
on, the reasons are all the more compelling.
The big question is how to make the ideas
really take hold this time around. □
Jefferson Kolle is a freelance writer and
former editor at Fine Homebuilding.
Bonus savings. Energy from alternative
sources such as photovoltaic and solar-
thermal-collection systems aren’t calculated
into a Passive House’s energy use. But the
Schultz house (and some others) use them
to reduce energy usage and get to net zero.
Near-zero Passive
Architect Nancy Schultz designed
and built her own Passive House in
some of the coldest country in North
America. Even with R-55 walls and
triple-glazed windows, Schultz was
a bit skeptical that the house would
perform as predicted by the Passive
House Institute’s planning software. A
brief spell last winter without power
or any solar backup put the design
to the test. After two weeks without
heat, the house still held at 50°F.
“Now I’m a believer,” Schultz says.
Location: Isabella, Minn.
Architect: Nancy Schultz
Builder: Ron and Sons Carpentry
Passive House consultant:
Conservation Technologies (www
.conservtech.com)
Size: 2100 sq. ft. heated
Annual heating/cooling cost:
well below $0 when alternative energy
is included
been sealed. Holmes said the tests revealed
“three to four trouble spots that we’re glad
we found before the rock went up.”
One reason to make a house airtight is
to be able to control the air that enters and
leaves it, which can dramatically improve the
indoor-air quality (IAQ) and reduce the
movement of heat through convection. One
of the ways that Passive Houses reduce en-
ergy use is to use energy- and heat-recovery
ventilators (ERVs and HRVs). Basically,
these systems remove the heating or cooling
energy from tempered air inside and trans-
fer that energy to the incoming air. (For an
in-depth explanation of how these systems
For more information and resources,
look for a link to Martin’s blog,
­“Passivhaus ­Windows,” in the ­Magazine
Extras section of FineHomebuilding
.com, and for his ­upcoming article
“In Search of the Best Windows in
­America” in FHB #213.
Photos: this page, courtesy of Short Elliot Hendrickson Inc.; facing page, courtesy of Unilux.FINE HOMEBUILDING52 www.finehomebuilding.com april/may 2010 53

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passivehouse article

  • 1. By Jefferson kolle The ­Passive House Green Without Gizmos Three requirements make it simple The standard is strict (it’s German, after all), and the performance numbers are very low. Unlike other programs that have multiple cri- teria for certification, the Passive House focuses on just three things: air infiltration, Btu consumption, and kwh usage. The new energy-efficiency section of the International Residential Code (IRC) deals only with air infiltration, and the government’s Energy Star pro- gram, while more strict than the IRC, is still a long way from the Passive House standard. Here’s the nitty gritty. “Use less energy” is the mantra of a stringent German building standard that’s catching on Air infiltration The Passive House standard for air infiltration can be no greater than 0.6 air changes per hour (ACH) at 50 pascals, which means the house is virtually airtight. The IRC’s current ­energy code requires 7 ACH at 50 pascals. Energy Star requires less than 5 or 6 ACH, depending on the climate zone. Btu consumption The annual energy use for heating and cooling can- not exceed 4755 Btu per sq. ft. annually. The average new home built to current code consumes nearly 10 times that amount. Energy Star has requirements for appliances and mechanical systems that can still amount to nearly eight times the Passive House requisite. Energy usage The maximum total energy use of the house, which includes heating, cooling, and electricity, cannot exceed 11.1 kwh per sq. ft. While there are no specific energy- use standards for code-built and Energy Star homes, estimates put their usage around 30 kwh and 20 kwh, respectively. P assive House is a performance- based building standard that can result in a house that consumes as little as 10% of the total heating and cooling energy used by a house built to the 2006 building code. If you’re an architect or builder, imagine the reaction you’ll get from clients when you tell them that you can either build a house that uses energy by the dollar or one that uses it by the dime. To achieve their impressively low levels of energyconsumption,certifiedPassiveHouses rely on proper solar orientation, an airtight envelope, lots of insulation, mechanical ven- tilation, and the reuse of heat. Designing and building a Passive House requires using proprietary energy-load soft- ware aimed at keeping energy use low and includes construction that can be painstak- ing. A flubbed detail can mean the difference between reaching the standard or not. Lower lifetime energy use The Passive House standard was devel- oped in Germany (where it’s known as “Passivhaus”) in 1996 by physicist Wolf- gang Feist, who was inspired by and fully acknowledges the influence of the ground- breaking, superinsulated houses built in the United States and Canada in the 1970s. In this country, Feist’s work has been cham- pioned by German-born architect Katrin Klingenberg, who started the Passive House Institute US, also known as PHIUS (www .passivehouse.us) in Urbana, Ill. Upwards of 20,000 Passive Houses have been built in Europe, and while there are fewer than two dozen in this country, there are many on the drawing board, and the Photos this page and facing page: courtesy of Craig Buttner. www.finehomebuilding.comFINE HOMEBUILDING48 april/may 2010 49
  • 2. Massive but passive This house on Martha’s Vineyard goes a long way toward dispelling the myth that a Passive House will, by matter of course, look more like an institu- tion than a cozy dwelling. Beyond the beautiful design lie the hallmarks of a Passive House: an R-35 basement, R-45 walls, and an R-62 roof, along with triple-glazed windows, minimal heating and cooling equipment, and energy bills to match. Location: Martha’s Vineyard, Mass. Architect: Craig L. Buttner—Architect P.C., Boston (www.clbarchitecture.com) Builder: Clancy Construction (www .lclancy.com) Passive House consultant: Katrin Klingenberg, PHIUS Size: 4000 sq. ft. Annual heating/cooling cost: $400-$600 software-generated number that predicts a house’s energy based on its design. Houses built to the 2006 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) score a 100 on the HERS index. Energy Star and LEED homes can’t surpass 80 or 85, depend- ing on their climate zone. Net-zero homes score the lowest, at 0. A Passive House scores between 20 and 30 on the HERS index. While a net-zero house may use less total energy than a Passive House, it achieves that score by adding energy made with alterna- tive-energy sources into the calculations. The Passive House standard disallows site- generated alternative-energy sources in its computations and relies instead solely on its low energy consumption. As Klingenberg notes, “A Passive House can become a net- zero house with the addition of a very small renewable-energy system.” The standard doesn’t change from one location to another, but the way a house is built does. Lose—no, use—almost no heat To lower energy consumption to this degree, a house must be airtight, superinsulated, without thermal bridging (see “How It Works,” pp. 16-17), equipped with a heat- or energy-recovery ventilation system and ultra-high-performance doors and windows, and designed for passive-solar and internal- heat gains. Starting at the foundations, Passive Houses employ a massive amount of insulation, upwards of 16 in. of rigid foam, between the ground and the concrete slab. Exterior-wall systems, which are as thick as 16 in., can be built with double-stud 2x4s or 2x6s, or verti- cal I-joists used as studs. In some climates, insulated concrete forms (ICFs), structural insulated panels (SIPs), and even straw-bale walls have been used. Roof systems are typi- cally framed with I-joists of varying depths. Because of their air-permeability, fiberglass batts are not often used. Preferred choices are dense-pack fiberglass and cellulose, and polystyrene and spray-foam insulations. Passive House builders spend a lot of time air-sealing. Brad Holmes and his brother, Kurt, recently finished building a Passive House in Duluth, Minn. (The house will soon earn a LEED platinum rating.) “We caulked every location where wood meets wood,” Holmes says. The house underwent three blower-door tests before the drywall was hung just to make sure all the leaks had movement has gained converts quickly as energy prices have increased. Armed with the mantra “First, use less energy,” Passive House advocates say that rather than getting hung up on the amount of energy it takes to build a home, it is more important to look at how much energy the home will use during its lifetime. Statistics differ, but on average, a typical code-built house will use 10 times more energy to heat, cool, and operate its various systems for 40 years than the amount used to build it. To get an idea of how little energy a Pas- sive House uses, it helps to look at the Home Energy Rating System (HERS) index, a Closed-cell spray foam Closed-cell spray foamTermite-shield copper flashing 16-in.-deep rafter cavities filled with dense-pack cellulose Tyvek taped to underside of roof sheathing 3/4-in. CDX plywood top plate 2x6 exterior wall, 24 in. on center Dense-pack cellulose Dense-pack cellulose 2x4 interior wall, 24 in. on center 2x4 interior basement wall 16-in. I-joist This airtight drywall technique, which calls on caulk to seal every perimeter of the interior walls, keeps air from escaping to the outside and throughout the house, yielding a more balanced air pressure inside. XPS rigid-foam insulation XPS rigid-foam insulation 3 ⁄4-in. subfloor 4-in. concrete slab 3 ⁄4-in. XPS rigid-foam insulation 2x8 pressure- treated sill plate atop sill seal 91⁄2-in. I-joist Tyvek wrapped around the rim joists and incorporated into the airtight drywall eliminates air infiltration at a home’s most leak-prone area. 12-in.-thick double- stud walls eliminate thermal bridging above the foundation. Rafter tails cut flush with the exterior wall eliminate thermal bridging and make air-sealing details more effective. Roof R-value 62 Wall R-value 45 Slab R-value 34 Basement Wall R-value 35 A Passive House is set carefully on the site to maximize solar gain, but solar orientation goes only so far toward achieving the Passive House Institute’s performance requirements. A well-insulated envelope that’s virtually airtight is the real news here. Building thick walls, incorporating airtight drywall techniques, and care- fully detailing housewrap are a few ways builders and designers achieve these goals. Mechanical ventilation is a must, of course, as are triple-pane windows. Elimi- nating thermal bridging is also important. To achieve certifica- tion, building designers start with a building envelope much like the one shown here. The envelope makes it possible Photo: courtesy of Craig Buttner. Drawing facing page: John Hartman. 2-in. closed-cell spray foam FINE HOMEBUILDING50 April/may 2010 51
  • 3. Triple-pane windows are a must, but not a requirement Although they’re not required, triple- glazed windows like the ones shown here from Unilux (www.unilux.de) are strongly recommended for cold-climate Passive Houses. Available from both German and Canadian manufacturers, windows with triple glazing and insulated frames have a low U-factor yet still provide enough solar gain to allow a house to meet the Passive House standard. Although some manufacturers go so far as to have their windows certified by the Passive House Institute, the standard allows the use of uncertified windows. Good triple-glazed windows aren’t cheap. Canadian windows cost $40 to $50 per sq. ft., while German windows cost up to $100 per sq. ft. Whether German or Canadian, the best triple-glazed windows gain more heat than they lose. From an energy perspec- tive, these windows perform better than an insulated wall. —Martin Holladay is a senior editor at ­GreenBuildingAdvisor.com. work, see “How It Works,” FHB #205 and online at FineHomebuilding.com). Windows and doors have always been a weak link in energy-efficient buildings, but major improvements have led to the development of triple-pane windows with an extremely low U-factor. Historically, Euro- pean windows have been more efficient than thosemadeinthiscountry,butsomeCanadian and U.S. manufacturers have started making windows with U-factors as low as 0.13. Because Passive Houses are superinsulated and airtight, heat loss is kept to a minimum. The buildings don’t often require a tradi- tional central-heating system (the savings from which can offset some of the extra costs associated with building to the standard). Instead, they rely on solar gain and the heat produced by electrical equipment and the occupants, as well as the recycled heat from HRVs. Supplemental heat sources, such as a few feet of electric-resistance baseboard, electric heat mats in bathroom floors, even domestic water heaters, can fulfill the need for any additional heat on the coldest days. Passive Houses are designed to maximize solar-heat gain when and where it is wanted, and minimize that gain when and where it is not. Passive House design also maximizes the amount of natural lighting in a building, which makes for more pleasant living spaces while reducing artificial-lighting costs. Software minimizes guesswork Not surprisingly, planning a Passive House involves no guesswork; rather, it’s based on an energy-modeling program called the Pas- sive House Planning Package (PHPP). The program calculates by taking into account almost every aspect of a house, including the site’s weatherpatternsandsolar orientation; the type of construction and the materials used; the window designs and loca- tions; the ventilation-system design; and the total loads of appliances, lighting, and other mechanicals. PHPP will even predict the fin- ished home’s carbon-dioxide emissions. AdamCohenisanarchitectwhosecompany, Structures Design/Build, in Roanoke, Va., has been building energy-conscious houses for 25 years. He thinks the PHPP software has an “amount of specificity that is much more precise” than other modeling programs he has used, which, he says, “makes it easy to fudge some of the details.” The precision of the program allows the user to make small design changes and immediately see how they affect the building’s energy use. Getting accredited Unlike some of the energy-efficient build- ing programs—LEED and NAHB Green, for example—the Passive House standard doesn’t assign a rating or use a point system for the materials and methods used during construction. Instead, the Passive House standard is based wholly on a building’s per- formance. If a house meets the standard, it is considered to be a Passive House. Not surprisingly, the steps needed for accreditation are regimented, and although only three are required, many more are rec- ommended. It is not mandatory to work with a trained consultant when building a Passive House, but in the long run, it’ll be quicker, easier, and less expensive than doing it on your own. Precertification starts at the planning stage; all specifications are reviewed to make cer- tain that no major errors exist. After the house is built, but before the walls are insulated, blower-door tests are done to ensure the airtightness meets the Passive House standard. As Holmes pointed out, the first test reveals leaks that can be corrected while the walls are open. After a crew tracks down and fixes them, a second or even third test occurs. Contractors are required to submit “as- built” photographs to PHIUS that show the house was built to the specifications agreed upon during the precertification stage. Along with the photos, the general contractor has to submit a declaration that guarantees the house was built as planned. Finally,alastblower-doortestisperformed. If the house passes the 0.6-air-changes-per- hour grade, a certificate is issued by PHIUS that says the building is a Passive House. Thecostofcertificationdependsonwhether you’ve used a Passive House consultant throughout the project. If you haven’t used one, you’ll probably need to hire one to walk you through the processes and the software at the going rate of about $150 per hour. But if you’ve used a consultant, or become one yourself, the cost is under $1000. There are several reasons why the pioneer- ing energy-efficient houses of the past cen- tury didn’t catch on. Politics played a part, as did the limitations of the technologies of the time, which, fortunately, have been surpassed by today’s better windows, doors, and venti- lation systems. The arguments for reducing houses’ energy use were certainly valid in 1974 when architect Wayne Schick coined the term “superinsulation.” Thirty-five years on, the reasons are all the more compelling. The big question is how to make the ideas really take hold this time around. □ Jefferson Kolle is a freelance writer and former editor at Fine Homebuilding. Bonus savings. Energy from alternative sources such as photovoltaic and solar- thermal-collection systems aren’t calculated into a Passive House’s energy use. But the Schultz house (and some others) use them to reduce energy usage and get to net zero. Near-zero Passive Architect Nancy Schultz designed and built her own Passive House in some of the coldest country in North America. Even with R-55 walls and triple-glazed windows, Schultz was a bit skeptical that the house would perform as predicted by the Passive House Institute’s planning software. A brief spell last winter without power or any solar backup put the design to the test. After two weeks without heat, the house still held at 50°F. “Now I’m a believer,” Schultz says. Location: Isabella, Minn. Architect: Nancy Schultz Builder: Ron and Sons Carpentry Passive House consultant: Conservation Technologies (www .conservtech.com) Size: 2100 sq. ft. heated Annual heating/cooling cost: well below $0 when alternative energy is included been sealed. Holmes said the tests revealed “three to four trouble spots that we’re glad we found before the rock went up.” One reason to make a house airtight is to be able to control the air that enters and leaves it, which can dramatically improve the indoor-air quality (IAQ) and reduce the movement of heat through convection. One of the ways that Passive Houses reduce en- ergy use is to use energy- and heat-recovery ventilators (ERVs and HRVs). Basically, these systems remove the heating or cooling energy from tempered air inside and trans- fer that energy to the incoming air. (For an in-depth explanation of how these systems For more information and resources, look for a link to Martin’s blog, ­“Passivhaus ­Windows,” in the ­Magazine Extras section of FineHomebuilding .com, and for his ­upcoming article “In Search of the Best Windows in ­America” in FHB #213. Photos: this page, courtesy of Short Elliot Hendrickson Inc.; facing page, courtesy of Unilux.FINE HOMEBUILDING52 www.finehomebuilding.com april/may 2010 53