"Odds And Ends" briefly discusses fly fishing tackle as well as line retrieval, animating the popper, hook setting, and a loop knot.

1. Odds And Ends 1
ODDS AND ENDS
Just tying a few bass poppers will not ensure fly fishing success.
You must have the proper tackle to cast heavy poppers and you
must be able to animate the poppers and set the hook after a strike.
Trout fly fishers will adapt readily to fly fishing for bass. However,
fly fishing for bass requires a heavier rod than the typical light trout
rod, a specialized fly line and a change in hook-setting technique.
Fly Rods
I spent over two decades wadding the shallows of an irrigation
impoundment and wildlife refuge in western Montana stalking
large mouth bass. The reservoir was so choked with hydrilla, pond
weed, and other aquatic vegetation that it was difficult to force
your way through the mats as the water level dropped throughout
the summer. Poppers without weed guards had no chance. I broke
two 8 weight rods horsing bass through the heavy weeds and final-
ly switched to a monstrous 10 weight rod. Now I fish a relatively
open TVA reservoir. Six, 7, and 8 weight rods all have a place here.
Since I much prefer to wade, the heavier rod allows me to reach
deep water cover without a boat. Yet the lighter 6 weight is great
for most conditions and smaller flies. My old 10 weight rod has
been relegated to tossing weighted streamers and bottom bouncers.
Rod choice is a matter of fishing conditions, the species of fish, and
what feels comfortable to you.

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Fly Lines
When it comes to choosing the type of fly line, the proper
choice is not open to much debate. Fly lines have specially tapered
ends depending on their intended use. You should choose a float-
ing fly line with a weight forward bass taper to obtain the greatest
casting efficiency. Every major supplier produces a weight forward
bass taper, so do not settle for any thing else. This taper is specifi-
cally designed to carry heavy poppers.
I personally do not purchase the high-end lines. My lines take a
lot of abuse and I have to replace them after several years. I pre-
fer a fly line one size heaver than the rated weight of the rod. The
heavier line helps load the rod with energy and makes long casts a
little easier.
Leaders
Leader selection is not as critical as fly line selection. But no
light trout leader is going to turn over a heavy bass popper. Bass
are not leader shy, so if you use tapered leaders, purchase a 6-foot
leader with a 12-pound tippet. Many times I have just tied on a
7-or 8-foot length of 20-pound test with no tippet at all. In open
water I use 4 feet of 20- or 25-pound monofilament as a butt sec-
tion and 3 or 4 feet of 12- or 15-pound monofilament as a tippet.
Improved Bowline
The popper should always be attached to the tippet with a loop
knot. A loop knot will allow the popper more freedom of move-
ment. I use a knot that is very easy to tie and the loop will not close
up. It is based on the bowline, a knot familiar to every boy scout.
Unfortunately the bowline loop, tied with monofilament, will
close down on the hook eye under tension, and the knot must be
modified. To lock the loop, simply bring the tag line up behind the
standing line and back down through the small loop a second time.
Cinch the knot tightly by pulling the tag end and it will not fail.
View the photographs on the following pages.

3. Odds And Ends 3
Throw a loop in front of the standing line. Pass the tag end up
through the loop and pass it behind the standing line.
Bring the tag end from behind the standing line and pass it down
through the loop. The standard bowline is now complete.
Standing Line
Tag End

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To lock the loop, bring the tag end up and pass it behind the
standing line a second time.
Pass the tag end down through the two loops. Pull the tag end to
tighten the knot. Clip the tag end.

5. Odds And Ends 5
Casting
Casting and retrieving the popper also needs a little special
instruction. Poppers don’t catch bass flying around in the air. I had
a friend who would make 4 or 5 back casts and not gain 10 feet in
casting distance. Two or 3 back casts, that’s it. This is the beauty
of the heavy bass taper, it really carries. Fly fishers should master
the single and double haul until they becomes second nature. Your
casting distance will increase considerably.
When the popper hits the water, lower the rod tip to water level
and point the rod directly at the popper. Quickly take up all slack
line, but don’t move the popper. You cannot animate the popper
or set the hook properly if your rod tip is up in the air or your line
snakes across the water. Beware, a bass may strike as soon as the
popper splashes down.
Animating The Popper
Beginning fly fishers usually animate the popper by making a
series of short strips of the line. I prefer a method often used by
trout fishers to retrieve streamers. Grasp the line between your
thumb and forefinger with the trailing end cradled in your palm by
your index, ring, and little finger. Reach forward with your index
and ring finger and hook the fly line as far as you can in front of
your thumb and forefinger. Draw your index and ring finger back
against your palm carrying the line with them. Hold the fly line in
your palm. Now reach forward with your thumb and forefinger and
grasp the line again. Repeat this process and the popper will crawl
back across the water and the line will coil up in your palm. If you
snap your index and ring finger back against your palm, the popper
will in turn jump across the water 4 to 6 inches with a pop. You
can use this retrieve to take up slack line, nudge the popper while
essentially letting it sit in place, crawl it slowly, or pop it across the
surface depending on how fast you gather the line into your palm.
I like to take up any slack with a slow crawl and then pop the lure
with a quick snap of my index and ring finger. This method of an-
imation is simple to master, versatile, and the fly line is always in

6. 6 Chapter 7
Extend your index and ring fingers and hook the fly line well in
front of your thumb and forefinger.
Grasp the fly line between your thumb and forefinger. Cradle the
trailing line in your palm with your index and ring fingers.

7. Odds And Ends 7
Occasionally drop the coils of line that accumulate in your palm.
Repeat step 1.
Draw the fly line with your index and ring fingers back into your
palm with a quick snap to animate the fly. Repeat step 1.

8. 8 Chapter 7
your line hand ready for a hook set. This method is most effective
in calm or rippling water.
Hook Setting
Another critical aspect of bass fishing is setting the hook. I must
constantly keep my self psyched up to anticipate a strike and set
the hook properly. But often when a bass explodes on my popper,
I fall apart and try to set the hook by whipping back on the fly
rod. The bigger the explosion and the closer it is to me, the great-
er my ineptitude. One thing is certain; you can’t set the hook in a
bony-mouthed bass just by whipping around a flimsy fly rod. The
hook is properly set by a sharp, forceful, backwards snap of the
line hand while the rod tip is still down and pointing at the popper.
The popper should move explosively about 2 to 3 feet as your line
hand extends behind you. Then you raise the rod tip and battle the
fish. We used to refer to 9- to 10-inch bass as “skippers,” because
we set the hook so hard they would skip back across the water or
sail back through the air causing us to duck out of the way. Now
that’s setting the hook.
Armed with a few poppers and a basic knowledge of proper
fishing techniques, you should have many enjoyable hours fly
fishing for bass. Hopefully, you will find that casting a fly line and
making poppers are enjoyments in themselves. I have attempted to
pass on what little knowledge I have acquired over many years. I
sincerely hope that you, the novice, become the master.