In the midst of a rapid decline of traditional craft-based livelihoods across India, handloom weaving in Kachchh, western India, has seen a revival. The resulting economic prosperity has also positively impacted other aspects of the lives of Vankars (weavers), including reducing caste and gender inequities, increasing role of youth, and slowing down distress migration. But it has also resulted in increased economic inequalities, and greater ecological footprint. This study brings out the multiple dimensions of transformation using a new tool of participatory assessment.

1. ‘Sandhani’
Transformation Amongst Weavers in Kachchh, India
Kalpavriksh / Khamir
(as part of ACKnowl-EJ)

2. Kachchh, Gujarat

3. →
Gujarat
India

4. Kachchh
Gujarat

5. A cultural junction point due to
geographical location and historical context,
Kachchh is known for its diversity.

9. Kachchh is home to many different
Cultures
Communities
Religions
Histories
Dialects
Castes

13. Estimated 40percent of the people living in Kachchh
are connected to the crafts.

14. Embroidery

16. Leather craft

17. Kachchh is the largestdistrict in Gujarat
and the firstlargest district in India. It is
one of the most craft rich regions of India and Asia.

18. Copper coated bells

19. Quilt making

20. Batik printing

21. There are over 50 nationallyranked craftsmen
living and practicing their craft in Kachchh.

22. Batik Painting

25. There are over 26different crafts in Kachchh including:
embroidery
weaving Wood carving
Leather
metal bell making silver
Block Printing
tie dye
pottery lacquer
Hidden music

28. Wood carving

29. Silver craft

30. Pottery craft

31. Weaving craft

36. In Sanskrit, Kachchh means tortoise.
Some say its name comes from its shape
while others
argue it was named because
the land was once under water but
emerged from the sea
during an earthquake.

39. The KHAMIR Craft Resource Centre was promoted by
the Kachchh Nav Nirman Abhitan, the Nehru
Foundation for Development & the Confederation of
Indian Industries in the aftermath of the earthquake.
KHAMIR provides a platform for individuals &
organizations wishing to engage with Kachchh crafts.

40. Crafts in local architecture

41. New Craft Products

42. New designs
Kala Cotton
Revival of Indigenous Cotton

43. Kala Cotton
Early stage in farm

44. Kala Cotton
In Farm

45. Products - stoles

46. Products – Garments

47. Welcome to Kachchh
Welcome to Culture & Craft.

48. Study of Transformation Amongst
Weavers in Kachchh
• An attempt to understand the multiple
dimensions (economic, socio-cultural,
political, ecological) of transformation due to
revival of handloom weaving
• Participatory, involving young and elder
Vankars (weavers), including women
• First ever assessment of ecological handprint
(footprint) of some aspects of weaving

49. As background
India: alternative initiatives for well-being
Water
Crafts
Shelter
Food
Energy
Governance
Livelihoods
Conservation
Village revitalisation
Urban sustainability
Learning
Health
Producer
companies
Gender

50. Vikalp Sangams (Alternatives Confluences):
collaborations, cross-learning, collective visioning of future

51. Framework emerging from Vikalp Sangam: Towards alternative transformation
POLITICS
ECONOMICS
ECOLOGY
SOCIETY
CULTURE

52. http://acknowlej.org/understandingtransformations/#section-alternatives

53. Alternatives Transformation Format
Objective: self-assessment by community /
organisation of their activities, to see how
transformative they are, e.g.:
How transformative: much are they leading to justice,
equity, sustainability?
How holistic: do they cover all aspects of life?
How coherent: do they work well in one or two
aspects, but make situation worse in others?
Scenario-building: what more can they do?

55. Ecological Footprint (EFP)- Cotton
Production
Cotton
Production
System
Avg.
Production
(kg /Acre)
EFP (Per kg of cotton production)
CO2eq (kg)
Green Water
(Litre)
Blue Water (Litre)
Kala-Rainfed 692 0.66 2094 0
Kala-Irrigated 1247 1.84 1026 421
Bt-Irrigated 1382 4.12 760 1156

56. EFP Attributed to Weaving
Weaver CO2 Eq per kg of
Cotton Value Chain
Attributed to
Weaver
Blue water use per kg of
entire cotton value chain
attributed to weaver (litre)
Kala Bt Kala Bt
Shamji 4.85 9.45 194 1838
Chaman 5.42 10.15 168 1884
Ramesh 5.09 11.47 172 1837
Overall 5.12 10.36 178 1853

57. EFP - Overall Source

58. EFP- Source Within Weaving

59. Enablers of Transformation
• Vankar (weaver) entrepreneurship & adaptability
• Technological changes (yarn, loom, etc … and digital
media)
• Earthquake
• Access to new markets
• Institutional interventions (Khamir, design schools)
• Background factors, e.g. growing literacy/education
levels; Kachchh as tourist destination

60. Learnings on Transformation
• Heavy focus on one sphere (economic), so impact on others
overlooked, kept aside
• Holism & coherence weak (both complementary and
contradictory changes)
• Scale: many personal/family transformations, not necessarily
whole community; geographic unevenness; ups & down
(cycles?) over time
• Power transformations significant, but not clear if overall
towards greater equality?
• Not-so-visible enablers (e.g. digital platforms, literacy) need
to be understood as much as visible ones

61. Contacts
• Ashish Kothari, chikikothari@gmail.com
• Ghatit Laheru, ghatit.laheru@khamir.org
• www.kalpavriksh.org
• www.khamir.org
• www.acknowlej.org