Rekha Gurjar ,One Year Fashion Design in Women's wear Diploma Programme Portf...
ME at STOLL_
1. ROSANNA BUONOCORE-ZAMAEV
Cell. (718) 812-4271 rosannadany@hotmail.com
At Stoll Fashion and Technology Center in NYC I was part of a team that made
samples and small production for High End designers and Runway Shows. It was a
very challenging environment. Very little yarn and time was available for the first
sample. There was no room for error. I was responsible for the fit and finish of every
garment.
Since I worked for many years inside a New York factory heading a Design team I
thought I knew knitting machines. Working at STOLL reminded me again how much
more there is to know. I have learned a lot about new machines and have been
enriched by the experience.
We were able to achieve great results because I worked with amazing technicians who
were willing to use their knowledge and creativity together with me. We proudly
shipped to Italy and France high quality sweaters labeled MADE IN USA.
Below please look at some examples of our team efforts.
2.
3. VICTORIA SECRET FASHION SHOW 2010 - The 1st and only sample. Fits perfectly!
On the image below you see a design sketch and a
knitted piece of how the Technician made that sketch
come to Life. He did an amazing job having few cones
of yarn to work with. After approval of test piece this
is where I came in to convert these “INTARSIA”
internal shapes to exact model measurements. We had
only one try to make this perfect. We could not waste
time nor yarn. The finished garment you can see at the
lower image, and on the picture of the Victoria Secret
super model. We both felt very proud for our work.
4.
5. THIS IS ME. I AM PRESSING SIZE TEST FOR “COWICHAN” CARDIGAN FOR FREEMAN SPORTING CLUB
IMAGES ARE PART OF A BLOG “MADE IN USA”
6. *Freemans Sporting Club was established to pay tribute to the vanishing art of American handmade goods, and the
quality and durability inherent in something made by skilled artisans.
*Every F.S.C. garment is just a few hands removed from where it began and is made by a new generation of artisans,
tailors and sewers who once flourished across the US. F.S.C. remains steadfastly dedicated and proud be an American-
made product.
At STOLL I had to create a Spec
Sheet with formula for every
customer. STOLL did not have any
templates when I started working
there.
On the left image you can see a
Production Spec for Freeman
Sporting Goods.
I also had to make a different Spec
for a Technician. For every garment
there are two different Specs. One
with measurements another one
with calculations, and both are
needed.
10. Made in Manhattan: New York’s Knitters Enjoy
Local Resources
10th
April 2012, New York Debra Cobb reports from New York
Walking along West 39th Street in New York's garment district, one might be surprised to see a Stoll
knitting machine through a street-level window. It's a sign that knitwear development is alive and
flourishing in New York, in spite of competition from Asia and other global centres of knitwear
manufacturing. While New York's knitwear industry was once relegated to factories in outlying Brooklyn
and Long Island, today there are modern, well-equipped knitwear studios in Manhattan offering state-of
the-art design and sampling facilities to the city's knitwear designers and students, run by forward
thinking equipment manufacturers as well as by private organizations. Stoll
Stoll's New York Fashion and Technology center serves the industry while highlighting its flat knitting
machines and pattern software, which are used in the production of fashion knitwear as well as for industrial
and medical textiles around the world. Education and sample development are at the heart of Stoll's marketing
efforts in America. "We look at this whole facility as a design tool-for sampling, education, and inspiration,"
explains Beth Hofer, senior manager of customer relations and educational resources for the American branch
of the 139-year-old German knitting machine maker.
11. With 8 multi-gauge and 16 true-gauge machines, along with linking and steaming operations on site, Stoll offers
fast-track sampling using yarns and tech packs supplied by the customer. These can range from 10 pieces for a
runway collection to 100 pieces per size for a retail test run. Stoll can then send the electronic files to a global
manufacturer for production on Stoll equipment, connecting the dots between New York's knitwear designers
and manufacturing resources anywhere in the world.
Since its opening in April 2009, the facility has offered unique educational opportunities to students throughout
the US. Evening seminars as well as an intense 2-day class utilize vintage flat machines to teach knitting
handson.
Upon completing the class, "they will know knitting: how a machine works, how yarns work, the various
stitches, then full-fashion knitting and shaping," Beth Stofer affirms. "Because they do it by hand, it teaches
respect." Promising students are invited to apply for a 3-month internship.
Also on site is an extensive archive of Stoll's seasonal trend garments, identified by stitch, gauge, yarn, and
knitting time. Students, faculty, designers and corporations can visit and research, or log on to a virtual archive
through a membership program; and Stoll's trend development books are available to customers or for purchase.
Students and new designers also benefit from Stoll's ABC Stitch Reference, a swatched guide to knitting
developed as a "tool of the trade" which is available for purchase.