Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from bitter almonds. It has several advantages over other AHAs like glycolic acid for skin treatments. Due to its larger molecular size, mandelic acid penetrates the skin more slowly and evenly, making it less irritating. It also does not disrupt melanin production or cause hyperpigmentation. Mandelic acid peels and products improve skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging by exfoliating and stimulating collagen production. The document outlines protocols for 30-45% mandelic acid peels and a skin conditioning system to maximize their benefits.

1. Mandelic Marine Complex®
Skin Conditioning Formulations
and
30% & 45% Mandelic Acid Peel Solutions

2. Mandelic Marine Complex
Skin Conditioning Formulations
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3. Biochemistry of Mandelic Acid
MANDELIC ACID IS:
 an 8-carbon aromatic* alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), named after the
German “mandel” and derived from the hydrolysis of an extract of
bitter almonds
 also known as:
ALPHA-HYDROXYBENZENEACETIC ACID
CARBOXYLIC ACID
*a class of organic chemical compounds that contain one or more rings of carbon atoms (phenol ring)
and undergo chemical reactions that are characteristic of benzene.
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4. Biochemistry of Mandelic Acid
MANDELIC ACID:
 Chemical formula - C8H8O3 or HOCH(C6H5)COOH
 MANDELIC ACID STRUCTURE
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5. Biochemistry of Mandelic Acid
GLYCOLIC ACID:
 A 2-carbon AHA derived from Sugar Cane
 Chemical Formula - C2H4O3 or HOCH2COOH
 Glycolic Acid Structure
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6. Biochemistry of Mandelic Acid
MALIC ACID:
 A 4-carbon AHA tart tasting dicarboxylic acid, found in apples
 Chemical Formula - HOOCCH2CHOHCOOH or C4H6O5
 Malic Acid Structure
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7. Biochemistry of Mandelic Acid
Comparison of Mandelic Acid and Glycolic Acid
Molecules:
Mandelic Acid:
 is stronger (pK 3.41) than Glycolic acid (pK 3.83) at 25
 is larger (C8) than Glycolic Acid Molecule (C2)
 exhibits anti-microbial properties
 Is absorbed through epidermis at a slower and more even rate
 does NOT disrupt production of melanin pigment
 does NOT cause postinflammatory hyperpigmentation
 significantly improves melasma, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation,
and lentigenes
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8. Biochemistry of Mandelic Acid
Comparison of Mandelic Acid and Glycolic Acid
Molecules:
Mandelic Acid:
 does NOT cause irritation or erythema as is seen with 30%-70% glycolic
acid preparations
 peel preparations do not produce erythema, crusting or blistering
 may be used safely on darkly pigmented skin types compared to glycolic
acid and tretinoin
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9. Medical Origins of Mandelic Acid
Background
Mandelic Acid
 Has a long history of use in the medical community as an antiseptic,
most commonly used to to irrigate the bladder for urinary tract
infections.
Methenamine Mandelate,
 best known as an anti-infective, available only by prescription
 Chemical structure (C6-H12-N4.C8-H8-O3), is similar to that of
other well-known antibiotics.
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10. Medical Origins of Mandelic Acid
Background
Methenamine Mandelate
 inhibits
Staphylcoccus aureus
Bacillus proteus
Escherichia coli
Aerobacter aerogenes
Methenamine (meth-EN-a-meen) is nontoxic.
 After oral ingestion, it is rapidly absorbed and excreted in the urine.
 Through acid hydrolysis, bactericidal levels from methenamine are
rapidly reached at pH 5.0-5.5.
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11. Use of Mandelic Acid in Dermatology
Why the interest in including Mandelic Acid in Skin
Treatment Formulations?
 Mandelic Acid is one of the strongest A.H.A.s.
 large molecular structure causes even penetration
 helps prevent inflammation and irritation that often occurs with
use of other AHA’s.
 Mandelic acid (especially the 30% & 45% peel solutions)
 accelerates the cell renewal process,
 stimulates collagen synthesis, and
 improves elastin fibers in the dermis
 revitalizes sensitive skin
 helps improve the appearance of problematic skin.
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12. Use of Mandelic Acid in Dermatology
Why include Mandelic Acid in Dermatological Procedures?
 Great efficacy with ALL skin types
 Absorbed through epidermis at a slower, even rate
 penetration into melanocytes does NOT occur
 disruption of the production of melanin does NOT occur
 lack of reactive hyper-pigmentation
 notable absence of post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation
 Remarkable difference seen in the treatment of darkly pigmented skin
types of both Asian, African, and Hispanic origin
 Considered to be the “New Generation Acid Peel for Dark, Sensitive Skin
Types.
 Lack of any kind of hyper-pigmentation allows for a superior treatment
outcome for ALL pigmented skin types
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13. Use of Mandelic Acid in Dermatology
Why include Mandelic Acid in Dermatological Procedures?
 Hyperpigmentation
 most often referred to as Melasma
 occurs most often in women between 20 to 60 years of age
 affects ALL skin types
 exacerbated by exposure to sun, even in darker, pigmented skin types
Please see APPENDIX A - (slide 21) for more detail
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14. Use of Mandelic Acid in Dermatology
Why include Mandelic Acid in Dermatological Procedures?
 Anti-microbial properties helpful in use of acid peels for treatment of acne
prone skin
 Mandelic Acid peel formulations do not contain any moisture
 lack of moisture and slower absorption allow for use of 30%-50% peels
 may be left on skin for a longer time without adverse side effects
 Due to large aromatic phenol or carbon ring structure, Mandelic Acid:
 is an excellent accelerated exfoliation agent
 dissolves demosomes thus sloughing off necrosed squamous cells
 freshly exposed epidermal layers minimize appearance of wrinkles, age
spots and hyperpigmentation
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15. Use of Mandelic Acid in Dermatology
Mandelic Marine Complex® Skin Conditioning Systems
and Mandelic Acid Peel Solutions are designed to function
in a synergistic manner, so that you, the Medical
Professional, are able to provide a complete skin treatment
protocol from start to finish for every aspect of your client’s
dermatological care.
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16. Use of Mandelic Acid in Dermatology
30% & 45% CHEMICAL PEEL SOLUTION PROTOCOLS
Series of protocols using 30% or 45% Mandelic Marine Complex® Acid Solutions
Prior to Procedure - preparation - two to four weeks
 Patient treated with Mandelic Marine Complex® formulations
Cleanser, Toner, Mandelic Serum, Moisturizer, Scrub, SunScreen
Peel Procedure - application of 30% or 45% Peel Solutions
 Patient undergoes Mandelic Acid Peel procedure
Post procedure - healing - optional depending upon the degree of procedure.
 Application of Post Resurfacing Healing System (containing Aloe) to aid in
healing to re-epithelialization.
Cleanser, Healing ointment (semi permeable) – multiple times daily
Post procedure – maintenance
 Patient resumes treatment with Mandelic Marine Complex® formulations
 Application of SunSense SPF30+ is highly recommended for ALL skin types
realizing the benefits of treatment with an AHA
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17. Use of Mandelic Acid in Dermatology
Benefits of each Step:
 Pre-procedure - Preparation of skin.
 Use the Mandelic Marine Complex® Skin Conditioning System for a full two
weeks prior to any Laser or Peel Procedure. Efficacy of Procedure will be
enhanced.
 Procedure
❖ Mandelic Acid Peel Solution (no moisture) is non-irritating and non-sensitizing
❖ Mandelic Acid Peel Solution can be administered once per week for six weeks.
❖ Treatment of ACNE - Increases and speeds healing of acne
❖ Treatment of Hyperpigmentation - Minimizes appearance of Hyperpigmentation
❖ Treatment of Anti-Aging - Encourages collagen production, and therefore
decreases the appearance of fine lines
 Post Procedure - Maintenance
❖ Resume Mandelic Marine Complex® Skin Conditioning System in order to
maintain the results of the Peel Procedure.
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18. Use of Mandelic Acid in Dermatology
WHY MANDELIC ACID ABOVE ALL OTHER SKIN FORMULATIONS?
 LARGER MOLECULE (C8) than any other AHA slows rate of absorption into
epidermis, allowing for even penetration
 NON-IRRITATING & NON-SENSITIZING for ALL skin types, especially darker,
pigmented, and sensitive skin
 HYPERPIGMENTATION - minimizes appearance of hyper-pigmentation, and
does NOT cause hyper-pigmentation
 ACNE - increases and speeds healing of acne. Acne at grade III or below
responds most positively
 ROSACEA - minimizes effects of unbalanced skin and resulting inflammation
which can cause proliferation of demodex mites in the hair follicles of the skin.
 ANTI-AGING - encourages collagen production, and therefore decreases the
appearance of fine lines
 Mandelic Acid Peel solutions produce less erythema than glycolic peels, and are
less likely to result in crusting or blistering.
 Mandelic Acid Peel Solutions without moisture can be administered once per
week before and after treatments for six weeks
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19. Use of Mandelic Acid in Dermatology
Three Features and Benefits Of
Mandelic Acid Peel Solutions
 Mandelic Marine Complex® formulations and Mandelic Acid Peel Solutions are a superior
alternative for all individuals with sensitive skin who cannot tolerate traditional AHA
formulations, especially Glycolic Acid. Often this can be as much as 25% or more of your
clientele, thus making NuCèlle® an important addition to any product mix.
 Consistent use of Mandelic Marine Complex® Skin Conditioning Systems and Peel
Solutions provide a safe, non-surgical, but effective approach to the problems of Hyper-
pigmentation (including Pregnancy Mask, Melasma), Rosacea, Acne, and the “Butterfly
Rash” associated with Lupus.
 Mandelic Acid Peel Solutions are a non-sensitizing solution to systematically remove built-up
layers of sun damaged skin cells without the downtime of more invasive skincare
procedures.
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20. NuCèlle ® Mandelic Marine Complex® Skin
Treatment Formulations and Peel Solutions
Skin Conditioning System
Peel Solutions
Healing System
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21. Appendix A - Hyperpigmentation
 Is most often referred to as Melasma.
 occurs most often in women between 20 to 60 years of age
 affects ALL skin types.
 exacerbated by exposure to sun, even in darker, pigmented skin types
Hormonal changes appear to be a primary cause of increased hyperpigmentation, even
in darker, pigmented skin types, whether it is due to pregnancy, oral contraceptive therapy
or even post-menopausal estrogen replacement therapy.
The process of melanin formation starts deep in the cell, where a gene makes an
enzyme called tyrosinase. After that, chemical dominoes fall: tyrosinase changes tyrosine
into dopa, which turns into dopaquinone – and dopaquinone forms either black-brown
“eumelanin” or red-yellow” pheomelani”. These two types of melanin are formed as
granules within structures called melanosomes, which are then shipped off to epidermal
cells at the surface of the skin.
Over time, observation was made that use of the Mandelic acid in the facial care
formulations appeared to even out skin hyperpigmentation, and we began using the
Mandelic acid for the treatment of Melasma. Its mechanism of action in pigment reduction is
not well understood, but we hypothesize that it interferes with tyrosinase function, much like
asorbic acid. With the phenol side-chain, it may also interfere with o-quinones in the
melanin pathway.
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22. For further reference, please contact:
Deborah Fortescue-Merrin
deb@nucelle.com
www.nucellerx.com
1+604-947-2894 Tel
1+604-947-0294 Fax
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