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INSIGHT INTO HAIR
EXTENSIONS
By Lauren Gilmore Hair Education
I am available to support you throughout. You can contact me via the
following:
@Laurengilmorehs
@Laurengilmoreeducation
@Laurengilmoresrh
@Laurengilmore_haireducation
07714408968
Laurengilmorehs@gmail.com
Hair Extensions Online Courses
Unit 4 - Safety Measures
1) Safety measures for you.
(A)(Q) Why is the Client consultation important? (See Sample Consultation form page 40-41 of
yourTraining Manual).
(B)(A) The client consultation is important in establishing health issues.
2) Safety measures for the client.
(Q) Why is it important client should have strong healthy roots?
(A)If client has weak and limp hair extensions may damage their hair. However, should the client
still wish to go ahead with extensions they must complete the Disclaimer Form. Strong health
roots are most suitable for bonding.
(B)Too much tension on the scalp caused by the bonding can causeTraction Alopecia (See sample
Alopecia sufferer on next page).
Please refer to page 41 Health & Safety Issues of yourTraining Manual to learn more on Health
Issues.
Jot down any questions you need clarification and we will address these in this Units Summary.
HAIR EXTENSIONS ONLINE COURSES
UNIT 4
SAFETY MEASURES
Before we have a look at client consultation, I want to go through some contra-indications and hair
loss issues. These are important as if they aren’t identified, they could cause some real damage to
the hair.
The first one I want to discuss is:
Trichotillomania –
◦ This is an obsessive-compulsive disorder defined by the urge to
pull his/her hair out.The core symptom is repetitive pulling leading
to hair loss and significant distress, causing baldness on the scalp.
Most individuals pull out hair from one or two areas, although their
can be more.
◦ If the client is suffering from this you can refer to a GP, but do
NOT apply any extensions.
◦ If someone is prone to pulling their hair they will do the same
with the extensions, this can cause lasting damage to their hair.
Next we are going to have a look
at:
Telogen Effluvium -
There are 2 types ofTelogen Effluvium:
◦ Acute:This is caused by an external factor (fever, operation, stress).
◦ Chronic:This is caused by internal factors (intrinsic disorders, medications,
nutrition, lifestyle).
Both of these cause extreme shedding 3 months after the event, which will slowly
return to normal.
Extensions should not be worn during this period as the excess weight can
increase the shedding.
Finally we are going to look at 2
different types of alopecia.
◦ Alopecia is defined as a hair loss disease that affects both men,
women and children.
◦ It is where the hair follicles are mistakenly attacked by the bodies
own immune system (white blood cells), resulting in the arrest of the
growing stage. It prematurely moves to the resting phases, where the
hair starts to shed.
Alopecia Areata –
◦ This is an auto immune disorder causing patchy areas of non-scarring
alopecia.The hair generally falls out in small patches around the scalp,
for most people the hair loss is nothing more than a few patches but in
some cases it can be more extreme.
Traction Alopecia:
This is one of the biggest causes of hair loss in Hair Extensions,
if methods aren’t performed correctly.
It is caused by tight hairstyles and extensions, whereby excess
tension has been put on the hair causing the hair follicles to
become irreversibly damaged so that the hair does not grow
back.
Keep an eye out for any sore spots or thinning sections at
maintenance appointments.
Again if any of these occur hair extensions should not be
applied. If you notice it during a maintenance appointment the
extensions should be removed immediately.
Before moving on I suggest researching these in a little
bit more depth...
Hair Extensions Online Courses
Unit 4 – Safety Measures
When not to apply hair extensions.
As a professional you will be asked all kinds of questions relating to many different types of
extensions. Keep yourself educated by staying on top of the latest trends and the tried and
true techniques. If you can answer questions with knowledge you will gain the client’s trust.
◦ When not to apply Hair Extensions:-
How long must my hair be in order to lengthen it?
Minimum hair length for a successful application is 8-10 cm and for a full head
application, 13-16 cm would be preferable.
The list in our Training Manual pages 3-6 will give you the information needed to make
informed choices when purchasing hair for extensions, however we will look at a system to
help you during client consultation.
◦ If I have very fine hair, will the extensions be seen easier or break my
hair?
No, Mini Bonds are more suited to thinner hair strands. (see pic on next
page*)
◦ Can the hair be dangerous during pregnancy?
Applying or removing extensions during pregnancy is not dangerous.
You must however note that during pregnancy or while breast feeding hair
loss tends to increase because of hormone variations. If this were to be the
case then the extensions need to be removed as your natural hair would not
stand the weight of the extensions.
Hair Extensions Online Courses
Unit 4 – Safety Measures
When not to apply hair extensions.
Hair Extensions Online Courses
Unit 4 – Safety Measures
When not to apply hair extensions.
Micro Bonds are more suited to fine hair.
LET’S HAVE A LOOK AT
CLIENT CONSULTATION
The consultation is an essential element of the
hair extension process.
A consultation:
◦ . Ensures that the client is suitable to have hair extensions.
◦ . Confirms the client is over 18 years of age.
◦ .Allows you to carry out relevant hair tests.
◦ . Identifies any contra—indications.
◦ . Colour match the hair.
◦ . Determines the client’s expectations.
◦ . Ensures you can meet these expectations.
◦ . Discuss client lifestyle.
◦ . Discuss aftercare and maintenance.
Hair Tests – These must always be carried out.
Porosity test –
Porous hair can absorb liquids through the cuticle
and cortex. If the cuticle is closed and undamaged
then the hair will
feel smooth.When the hair has been physically or
chemically damaged then it becomes generally more
porous and
uneven and the hair will feel rough.
If the hair is too porous it may not support the
extensions.
This test is done by taking a few strands of hair, hold
them firmly at the point (ends). Slide your fingers
along the hair
towards the root.The rougher it feels the more
porous it is and the more damaged the cuticle.
Elasticity test –
Well conditioned hair is springy and bouncy, this
means that is has good elasticity. It can stretch up to
one third of its
length when dry, half of its length when wet and
return to its original length.When hair loses
elasticity, it is
because the internal chemical links and bonds in the
cortex have been damaged.The hair may stretch two
thirds of its
length or break.
This test is done by taking some strands of the hair
and dampening it. Hold it between your thumb and
forefinger and
Gently pulling. If it stretches more than half its length
or breaks it is not suitable for extensions.
Pull test –
This test is done by running fingers through
the hair gently but firmly. If more than 10 hairs
come away, they may have
an underlying hair loss issue, so review again in
a few months. If between 5-7 hairs come away
proceed with caution
and monitor.Anything under 5 you can
proceed with the service.
Reasons for failure:
Bleach applied to the hair within 48 hours.
Previous damage from extensions (Traction
Alopecia).
Medication, stress, diet.
Telogen Effluvium.
Pulse test –
This is to ensure that the hair and scalp
are strong enough to support the hair
extensions and that the majority of the
hair is in the correct growing stage
(anagen) for extensions.
This test is done by selecting one hair
on the head, hold the hair by the root
and gently pull. Repeat this on different
parts of the head. If the hair dislodges on
a few areas it means extensions may not
be suitable at this time.
Anagen – This growing stage lasts for
approximately two to seven years.
Catagen – Lasts for two to three
weeks. It’s a transitional phase
essentially where the hair stops
growing.
Telogen – This phase lasts for one to
four months. 10-15% of hairs are within
this phase at any one time.
This is natural shedding.
Knowing this helps with the Pulse
and Pull test.
Growth Cycle
Lets have a look at individual hairs that leave the scalp and what these mean...
Remember - We all generally lose
between 50-100 hairs a day...
White hair bulb –
Has died and left the
scalp naturally.
Black hair bulb –
Has not left the scalp
naturally (excessive
tension).
The Hair Structure
Cuticle – Outer layer
of the hair, made up of
scales that when
healthy should lay flat
and smooth. It also
protects the cortex.
Cortex – Middle layer of the hair,
this is where any changes take place,
contains hair pigment and hair
strength.
Medulla – No Use.
Hair condition – If the hair is in good condition it will shine
and look healthy.When the cuticles are raised, the surface is
rough and dull.
Proceed with caution.
Hair type i.e. Dry, Oily, Normal, Damaged –
The natural condition is dictated by many different aspects of
hair care or general health.The sebaceous gland produces a
sebum which is the hairs natural oil, an overactive sebaceous
gland will cause the hair to become greasy.
However, too little it makes the hair dry.
Hair can become quickly damaged through chemical processes.
These things can effect hair extensions:
- Oily: Extensions may slip.
- Damaged: May cause Traction Alopecia.
Proceed with caution – you can always apply a few test bonds
for a week to see how the client gets on.
Density –
This is the average amount of hair that is
on the head. Someone with thicker hair
will have more hair follicles that someone
with thinner hair.
Clients with blonde hair normally have
the most hairs, 140,000.
With red heads it is fewer, 90,000.
Knowing this will help you determine
how many extensions you will need.
Texture –
This is determined by the thickness of
each hair, either coarse, medium or fine.
Someone may have very fine hair but a lot
of it.
Choosing Hair Length
A B
C
Length of extensions should only be based on a
weight on weight distribution.This stops any
unnecessary damage to the hair caused by
Traction and pulling.
You measure this by:
1. Pull a couple of strands of
hair straight out from the
head around the crown (A-
B).
2. Measure from the point of
the hair to the ends of the
client’s hair (B-C).
3. This measurement will
show you what length of
hair extensions your client
can have.
WHAT TO DO NEXT:-
FROM HERE YOU CAN MOVE ONTO
ANY OF MY HAIR EXTENSION
COURSES...

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Insight

  • 1. INSIGHT INTO HAIR EXTENSIONS By Lauren Gilmore Hair Education
  • 2. I am available to support you throughout. You can contact me via the following: @Laurengilmorehs @Laurengilmoreeducation @Laurengilmoresrh @Laurengilmore_haireducation 07714408968 Laurengilmorehs@gmail.com
  • 3. Hair Extensions Online Courses Unit 4 - Safety Measures 1) Safety measures for you. (A)(Q) Why is the Client consultation important? (See Sample Consultation form page 40-41 of yourTraining Manual). (B)(A) The client consultation is important in establishing health issues. 2) Safety measures for the client. (Q) Why is it important client should have strong healthy roots? (A)If client has weak and limp hair extensions may damage their hair. However, should the client still wish to go ahead with extensions they must complete the Disclaimer Form. Strong health roots are most suitable for bonding. (B)Too much tension on the scalp caused by the bonding can causeTraction Alopecia (See sample Alopecia sufferer on next page). Please refer to page 41 Health & Safety Issues of yourTraining Manual to learn more on Health Issues. Jot down any questions you need clarification and we will address these in this Units Summary.
  • 4. HAIR EXTENSIONS ONLINE COURSES UNIT 4 SAFETY MEASURES
  • 5. Before we have a look at client consultation, I want to go through some contra-indications and hair loss issues. These are important as if they aren’t identified, they could cause some real damage to the hair. The first one I want to discuss is: Trichotillomania – ◦ This is an obsessive-compulsive disorder defined by the urge to pull his/her hair out.The core symptom is repetitive pulling leading to hair loss and significant distress, causing baldness on the scalp. Most individuals pull out hair from one or two areas, although their can be more. ◦ If the client is suffering from this you can refer to a GP, but do NOT apply any extensions. ◦ If someone is prone to pulling their hair they will do the same with the extensions, this can cause lasting damage to their hair.
  • 6. Next we are going to have a look at: Telogen Effluvium - There are 2 types ofTelogen Effluvium: ◦ Acute:This is caused by an external factor (fever, operation, stress). ◦ Chronic:This is caused by internal factors (intrinsic disorders, medications, nutrition, lifestyle). Both of these cause extreme shedding 3 months after the event, which will slowly return to normal. Extensions should not be worn during this period as the excess weight can increase the shedding.
  • 7. Finally we are going to look at 2 different types of alopecia. ◦ Alopecia is defined as a hair loss disease that affects both men, women and children. ◦ It is where the hair follicles are mistakenly attacked by the bodies own immune system (white blood cells), resulting in the arrest of the growing stage. It prematurely moves to the resting phases, where the hair starts to shed. Alopecia Areata – ◦ This is an auto immune disorder causing patchy areas of non-scarring alopecia.The hair generally falls out in small patches around the scalp, for most people the hair loss is nothing more than a few patches but in some cases it can be more extreme.
  • 8. Traction Alopecia: This is one of the biggest causes of hair loss in Hair Extensions, if methods aren’t performed correctly. It is caused by tight hairstyles and extensions, whereby excess tension has been put on the hair causing the hair follicles to become irreversibly damaged so that the hair does not grow back. Keep an eye out for any sore spots or thinning sections at maintenance appointments. Again if any of these occur hair extensions should not be applied. If you notice it during a maintenance appointment the extensions should be removed immediately. Before moving on I suggest researching these in a little bit more depth...
  • 9. Hair Extensions Online Courses Unit 4 – Safety Measures When not to apply hair extensions. As a professional you will be asked all kinds of questions relating to many different types of extensions. Keep yourself educated by staying on top of the latest trends and the tried and true techniques. If you can answer questions with knowledge you will gain the client’s trust. ◦ When not to apply Hair Extensions:- How long must my hair be in order to lengthen it? Minimum hair length for a successful application is 8-10 cm and for a full head application, 13-16 cm would be preferable. The list in our Training Manual pages 3-6 will give you the information needed to make informed choices when purchasing hair for extensions, however we will look at a system to help you during client consultation.
  • 10. ◦ If I have very fine hair, will the extensions be seen easier or break my hair? No, Mini Bonds are more suited to thinner hair strands. (see pic on next page*) ◦ Can the hair be dangerous during pregnancy? Applying or removing extensions during pregnancy is not dangerous. You must however note that during pregnancy or while breast feeding hair loss tends to increase because of hormone variations. If this were to be the case then the extensions need to be removed as your natural hair would not stand the weight of the extensions. Hair Extensions Online Courses Unit 4 – Safety Measures When not to apply hair extensions.
  • 11. Hair Extensions Online Courses Unit 4 – Safety Measures When not to apply hair extensions. Micro Bonds are more suited to fine hair.
  • 12. LET’S HAVE A LOOK AT CLIENT CONSULTATION The consultation is an essential element of the hair extension process.
  • 13. A consultation: ◦ . Ensures that the client is suitable to have hair extensions. ◦ . Confirms the client is over 18 years of age. ◦ .Allows you to carry out relevant hair tests. ◦ . Identifies any contra—indications. ◦ . Colour match the hair. ◦ . Determines the client’s expectations. ◦ . Ensures you can meet these expectations. ◦ . Discuss client lifestyle. ◦ . Discuss aftercare and maintenance.
  • 14. Hair Tests – These must always be carried out. Porosity test – Porous hair can absorb liquids through the cuticle and cortex. If the cuticle is closed and undamaged then the hair will feel smooth.When the hair has been physically or chemically damaged then it becomes generally more porous and uneven and the hair will feel rough. If the hair is too porous it may not support the extensions. This test is done by taking a few strands of hair, hold them firmly at the point (ends). Slide your fingers along the hair towards the root.The rougher it feels the more porous it is and the more damaged the cuticle. Elasticity test – Well conditioned hair is springy and bouncy, this means that is has good elasticity. It can stretch up to one third of its length when dry, half of its length when wet and return to its original length.When hair loses elasticity, it is because the internal chemical links and bonds in the cortex have been damaged.The hair may stretch two thirds of its length or break. This test is done by taking some strands of the hair and dampening it. Hold it between your thumb and forefinger and Gently pulling. If it stretches more than half its length or breaks it is not suitable for extensions.
  • 15. Pull test – This test is done by running fingers through the hair gently but firmly. If more than 10 hairs come away, they may have an underlying hair loss issue, so review again in a few months. If between 5-7 hairs come away proceed with caution and monitor.Anything under 5 you can proceed with the service. Reasons for failure: Bleach applied to the hair within 48 hours. Previous damage from extensions (Traction Alopecia). Medication, stress, diet. Telogen Effluvium. Pulse test – This is to ensure that the hair and scalp are strong enough to support the hair extensions and that the majority of the hair is in the correct growing stage (anagen) for extensions. This test is done by selecting one hair on the head, hold the hair by the root and gently pull. Repeat this on different parts of the head. If the hair dislodges on a few areas it means extensions may not be suitable at this time.
  • 16. Anagen – This growing stage lasts for approximately two to seven years. Catagen – Lasts for two to three weeks. It’s a transitional phase essentially where the hair stops growing. Telogen – This phase lasts for one to four months. 10-15% of hairs are within this phase at any one time. This is natural shedding. Knowing this helps with the Pulse and Pull test. Growth Cycle
  • 17. Lets have a look at individual hairs that leave the scalp and what these mean... Remember - We all generally lose between 50-100 hairs a day... White hair bulb – Has died and left the scalp naturally. Black hair bulb – Has not left the scalp naturally (excessive tension).
  • 18. The Hair Structure Cuticle – Outer layer of the hair, made up of scales that when healthy should lay flat and smooth. It also protects the cortex. Cortex – Middle layer of the hair, this is where any changes take place, contains hair pigment and hair strength. Medulla – No Use.
  • 19. Hair condition – If the hair is in good condition it will shine and look healthy.When the cuticles are raised, the surface is rough and dull. Proceed with caution. Hair type i.e. Dry, Oily, Normal, Damaged – The natural condition is dictated by many different aspects of hair care or general health.The sebaceous gland produces a sebum which is the hairs natural oil, an overactive sebaceous gland will cause the hair to become greasy. However, too little it makes the hair dry. Hair can become quickly damaged through chemical processes. These things can effect hair extensions: - Oily: Extensions may slip. - Damaged: May cause Traction Alopecia. Proceed with caution – you can always apply a few test bonds for a week to see how the client gets on.
  • 20. Density – This is the average amount of hair that is on the head. Someone with thicker hair will have more hair follicles that someone with thinner hair. Clients with blonde hair normally have the most hairs, 140,000. With red heads it is fewer, 90,000. Knowing this will help you determine how many extensions you will need. Texture – This is determined by the thickness of each hair, either coarse, medium or fine. Someone may have very fine hair but a lot of it.
  • 21. Choosing Hair Length A B C Length of extensions should only be based on a weight on weight distribution.This stops any unnecessary damage to the hair caused by Traction and pulling. You measure this by: 1. Pull a couple of strands of hair straight out from the head around the crown (A- B). 2. Measure from the point of the hair to the ends of the client’s hair (B-C). 3. This measurement will show you what length of hair extensions your client can have.
  • 22. WHAT TO DO NEXT:- FROM HERE YOU CAN MOVE ONTO ANY OF MY HAIR EXTENSION COURSES...