The Dynasty Chinese restaurant in Bangkok offers both traditional Cantonese dishes as well as innovative specialties created by its talented chef. During a lunch sampling various dim sum and dishes, the writer was impressed by several of the chef's creative dishes, including a unnamed sautéed prawn dish. The restaurant distinguishes itself from other Cantonese restaurants in the city by providing both traditional favorites and updated dishes not typically found on Chinese menus, such as the chef's own shark's fin carrot soup and beef stew dishes.

1. In a city full of traditional Cantonese Chinese restaurants it can be difficult for restaurants to distinguish themselves from the rest of the pack but some manage to do it if only in a limited way. The Dynasty Chinese restaurant in the Sofitel Centara Grand Hotel is one that does it by offering some non-traditional dishes that are specialties of its talented chef and display a high degree of both innovation as well as an understanding of the roots of Cantonese cuisine. Of course, all of the expected dishes and styles are represented here at Dynasty and on a recent visit I was able to sample an impressive array of these. But some of the food that I tried was also created by chef Lam Hing Kam who has been cooking for the last 37 years. He’s been here at the Dynasty for almost 10 years now serving up good food in a dining room decorated to evoke memories of what I imagine 1930s Shanghai might have looked like. During a lunch that started with a variety of dim sum treats I was able to get a good idea of what the chef’s creative abilities were like as we were treated to several of his specialties and also some brand new dishes. One of these was a dish that featured large, succulent prawns that had been lightly sautéed and was so new that it didn’t really have a name yet. This was balanced by other more ordinary, yet no less delicious, dishes like steamed crab claws that were perfectly cooked, a deep-fried version of prawns and sautéed, sliced pork in the chef’s famous chili XO sauce. The XO sauce is sold at the restaurant and another location in the hotel so amateur chefs can try using it at home. I also tried a hot and sour soup that purported to be in a Szechwan style although it was a bit lacking in the spiciness department, although my tolerance for hot dishes is a bit high I must admit. A Phuket lobster dish was also on the menu and proved to be another tasty item. Because, like many Chinese restaurants in its class, the menu is very large it wasn’t possible to try all of the dishes that looked interesting but there are a number that looked quite interesting. One is the chef’s own creation of shark’s fin in carrot soup, which must be unique, and some of the others are based around beef, not the most common ingredient on a traditional Chinese menu. These included a baked filet of beef Hong Kong style and a stewed beef brisket with spicy brown sauce in a casserole, both dishes I have never seen before. The Dynasty, by offering its guests both traditional and more innovative, updated Cantonese dishes, has created an interesting place to dine wherever your tastes may lie. By doing so it distinguishes itself in a city crowded with high-level competitors and marks itself as a restaurant deserving attention.