2. 2 3
Dubrovnik
Card Special tourist discount card
Available at all Tourist Information Offices,
Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies
Includes free entrance to cultural institutions
and public transport rides
No charge for children up to 12 y.o.
1-DayCard 3-DayCard 7-DayCard
Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum
in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin Držić, Art Gallery
Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika Gallery...
and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...
www.dubrovnikcard.com
3. 4 5
your emotions
your experience
your view
on Dubrovnik Daily
Selected by Marijana Matulović
4. 6 7
Publisher
Dubrovački dnevnik j.d.o.o.
Kardinala Stepinca 52
HR-20000 Dubrovnik
OIB: 84019117288
Editor In Chief
Lucija Komaić
Editor & Art director
Olja Ljubišić
Picture editor &
Photographer
Goran Martinović
Photographers
Lucija Komaić, Ivona Butjer,
Tea Stjepović, Marijana
Matulović, Olja Ljubišić
Journalists
Lucija Komaić, Ivona Butjer,
Tea Stjepović, Marijana
Matulović, Maro Marušić,
Leona Rašica, Iva Dedo, Aida
Čakić, Olja Ljubišić
designer
Dario Kovač (Festivus)
Cover
Dario Kovač (Festivus)
Marita Bonačić
Marketing
Vanda Pralas
Proofreader
Mike Matthews
Ivana Glavaš (Iris Illyrica)
Print
Tiskara Zelina d.d.
Katarine Krizmanić 1
Sveti Ivan Zelina 10380
Hrvatska
Dubrovnik 2016
www.dubrovnikdaily.eu
(coming soon)
DUBROVNIK DAILY
SPECIAL EDITION
Editor’s LETTER
I
love having the entire information just a click away. To
pack my bags and find out all I need to know about the
destination before reaching the airport. And there are
tons and tons of tips, info, secrets, comments, apps,
bloggers, and friends. Sources of all kinds.
Without a doubt, using the same tactic, you can discov-
er Dubrovnik - its picture-perfect viewpoints, tiny uphill
streets with millions of stone stairs that take your breath
away, restaurants where you don’t know whether to look at
a piece of art on your plate or the sunset...
Moreover, you can meet the locals. Talk busy summers and
quiet winters with a glass of a Malvasia wine in your hand,
laugh while they mock their own quirks, get inspired with
their ideas and have a lot of fun!
Dubrovnik Daily has been created for precisely that reason
– to start the conversation.
If we met today, we would brag how we got the opportuni-
ty to visit secret passages beneath the Old Town. There is a
Byzantine church under the Cathedral, first town walls 10
feet under Bunićeva poljana and much more. One day, we
may even get together again and see it all through a glass
floor....
We would discuss how history books had it all wrong about
the first days of Dubrovnik and its establishment and who
knows what else. We have to question everything, don’t we?
We would also question whether Duško Popov was indeed a
spy that inspired Ian Fleming to shake (not stir) the original
version of his 007 character. The truth is, as a child, he did
explore Dubrovnik and its streets.
After him, endless number of royals, film stars, directors,
artists, scientists, athletes walked down the Stradun mighty
and distant, gracefully talking in superlatives.
Maestro José Cura was anything but a spectator to the
beautiful scenery. He was very clear in his statement that
while he is in Dubrovnik, Dubrovnik is his home. And he
cares what is going on, he listens, comments and suggests.
It would be wonderful to hear your thoughts too. In the end,
Dubrovnik is your town, even for a day.
IMPRESSUM
5. 8 9
GORAN MRATINOVIĆ
To Dubrovnik-born Ela,
finding maskerons
(gargoyle head that brings
good luck) on fountains
and walls is still a great
fun when in Old Town.
GORAN MRATINOVIĆ
OLD MEETS NEW
6. 10 11
DANIEL PAVLINOVIĆ
Storm Chasers Dubrovnik
rock the night and weather
photography of Dubrovnik
and surroundings.
Lokrum, Dubrovnik
DANIEL PAVLINOVIĆ
Lokrum, Dubrovnik
DINO AVDIĆ
Courtesy of Culture Club Revelin
Revelin fortress, electronic
music heaven, today
defend against boredom.
Dubrovnik
7. 12 13
GORAN MRATINOVIĆ
In Ston, mussels are prepared with
garlic, white wine and olive oil for
who knows how many centuries.
STON
(55km north of Dubrovnik)
GORAN MRATINOVIĆ
8. 14 15
LUCIJA KOMAIĆ
From the moment people
start fishing before these
shores, one thing hasn’t
changed – they always sail
away with the best light of
sunrise or sunset.
Grebeni, DubrovnikGrebeni, Dubrovnik
9. 16 17
GORAN MRATINOVIĆ
Traditional Konavle earrings
made their come-back in the last
few years. Even though Mia has
her own, in smaller size, she still
prefers mom’s original version.
Cavtat
(20km south of Dubrovnik)
GORAN MRATINOVIĆ
10. 18
CROSSBORDERTOURISM.COM
After more then 350 years Falcon Town,
fortress situated at the very border with
Bosnian inland, regained its former glory
with efford of Society of Friends of
Dubrovnik Antiques, and opened its door
to visitors from all the round the world
DUNAVE, KONAVLE
(40km south of Dubrovnik)
CROSSBORDERTOURISM.COM
11. 20 21
LOKRUM ISLAND
microDESTINATION we love
// WHY WE LOVE IT
Lokrumisalittlegreenisland
near Dubrovnik. You need
10 minutes to reach it by
boat, which leaves every 30
minutes from the Old Port.
It’s not so crowded during
the high season and there
is enough natural shade for
everybody. There you can
also see numerous animals
like peacocks and rabbits.
The last Benedictines had
to leave the island in the
19th century, after 700
years. On their last
night the monks threw
a curse on the island
and anyone who tries
to own it. Today is
managed, not owned,
by a public Institution
“Reserve Lokrum”.
// WHAT TO EXPERIENCE
You can actually sit on
the Iron Throne. Real one. It
feels good even if you are not
Game of Thrones fan.
Take uphill road to the
fortress and have a different-
than-postcard view on
Dubrovnik.
Sea kayaking tours
are also a great way to visit
Lokrum.
Lokrum is Nature
Reserve and a Special Forest
Vegetation Reserve so don’t
miss the botanical garden.
If you are not a fan
of rocky beaches like us, try
Dead Sea natural pool.
“Legends of Lokrum”
is a multimedia
exhibition in the
basement of
the Benedictian
monastery. It
reveals the medieval
world of Templars
and Richard the
Lionheart.
You can actually sit on
Sea kayaking tours
Lokrum is Nature
If you are not a fan
By Marijana Matulović
like peacocks and rabbits.
The last Benedictines had
to leave the island in the
19th century, after 700
years. On their last
night the monks threw
a curse on the island
and anyone who tries
to own it. Today is
managed, not owned,
by a public Institution
“Legends of Lokrum”
is a multimedia
exhibition in the
basement of
the Benedictian
monastery. It
reveals the medieval
world of Templars
and Richard the
Lionheart.
12. 22 23
Lifestyle movement established
700m South-West of Pile Gate a
century ago presented by Maro
Marušić, DDaily journalist
and its most recognized
nowadays-preacher
E
ven if I start contemplating about
another beach, an invisible force will
drag me back to Danče.
The moment when the beach sucks you in,
and you stop considering any other,you be-
came Danchist. Unlike the other initiations,
there is nothing hard or complicated about
it. Just pure beauty of this place with unbe-
lievable feng shui created by Buda himself.
When you walk down Gradac park, after
one of those horrible days at work or after a
fight with your love one, rocks swoop
into the sea crushing the stress
and bad energy with it.
I’m not particularly fund of
everyday life, repeating things
over and over again, day after
day. For some unexplained
physical force, that rule doesn’t
apply to Danče. I could repeat the
same ritual 356 days a year: come to
the beach, leave the towel on the same spot,
light the cigarette before going in, always
from the same rock. Throw the ball in wa-
ter polo goal, same way I did million times
before, swim across the cove. Go out, play
a game of futsal and get blisters. As much
as routine make me anxious, this one calms
me with unexplainable doze of serenity.
Here, everyone comes for the same reason
– to danče. A made-up verb that reflects
to be right now, without problems, past
or future. Everyone danče – doctors, law-
ers, drinkers, gluttons, journalists, garbage
man, waiters, chefs.
Once the uniforms are off, in bathing suits,
we are all the same.There is no more greed,
ambition, competition. You can drink and
eat evenwithout the money,because some-
one will offer to buy it for you. Unlike other
corners of the town, the most important
rule here is “I can only be well, if you are.”
There is no age, too.
Legends from edge of science as-
sure that when Danchist dies,
his spirit will not say goodbye
to the family but to favourite
Danče beach.Ifhe loved futsal,
he will most likely make fun
with the players: move the
goalpost, redirect the ball, spill
the booze.
When I die, I’ll do the same. When they ask
me to stop, I’ll obey, leave towards the final
destination thinking how I was so lucky
to spent big part of it on Danče beach. The
place where social dogmas don’t exist,
money is worthless, there is no fear. With
daily practicing of danchism you can reach
enlightment.
How come so few Buddhists come to
Danče?
The most
important rule
here is“I can
only be well,
if you are.”
dAnChIsM
to be right now, without problems, past
Reserve LokrumReserve Lokrum
daily transfer to
Island by boats
weather permitting
WE’RE OPEN FROM
APRIl TIll NOVEMbER
Od Bosanke 4, HR - 20000 Dubrovnik
Tel: +385 20 311738
www.lokrum.hr
13. 24 25
DAILY EXCURSIONSDAILY EXCURSIONS
south adriatic travel
Montenegro
Mostar
Korcula island
Information & reservations:
COMPASS SOUTH ADRIATIC j.d.o.o. Travel
Address: Pera Čingrije 2, HR-20000 Dubrovnik - Croatia
Tel. +385 20 691 691
Email: info@ksa.hr
Web: www.ksa.hr
CAR & SCOOTER RENTAL, TRANSFERS,
PRIVATE TOURS
Rent a car and have it delivered
to your door.
Pick up
my car ? These
days my car
picks me up.’’
‘‘
Call +385 98 585 251 or reservations@kompasrent.hr
One way rentals available.
14. 26 27
E
veryone own-
ing 4 walls
and a roof in
D u b r o v n i k
rents his place to tour-
ists. One room, studio,
apartment or an entire
house. Not so long ago all
of them were advertised
on a piece of cardboard
at the main bus station.
Those Grandmas waving
with minimalistic “room
for 20$” signs mastered
the guerrilla marketing.
Once you set foot of the
bus, you would choose
one based on, well, noth-
ing really,a hunch maybe,
and she would take you
to your accommodation.
No English, just smiling.
If you’d need an extra
pillow, old fashion dic-
tionary would not help as
the word is replaced with
dialect. At that time, pan-
tomime was a method of
international communi-
cation, not a family game.
At the end of the day,
you would get the pillow
and sleep like an angel on
a white cotton pillow case
dried by bura. The next
morning knocking would
wake you up. New guests
would be ready to walk
in even though you paid
for 3 nights. Awkward.
Honeymooners defend
their claim to the throne
because they have been
there few days before and
told the lady whey would
be back on that precise
date. No mobile phone.
No internet. No English.
Just smiling.
Technology changed
since then, service got
better and two guys fi-
nally put things in order.
Nino Dubretić and Nikola
Grubelić saw an opportu-
nity to assist renters and
manage their bookings.
They’ve opened Di-
rect Booker (www.di-
rect-booker.com) in 2010
with one apartment and
today they manage 2879
accommodation units
and have employed 70
persons.
“There is no secret. We
approached the rent-
ers one by one. Then,
they recommended us,
and it’s still based upon
word of mouth,” Nino ex-
plained.
“He is the chatty one,
he loves working with
people. He is the one
that meets the renters,
takes care of their con-
cerns and tries to give
the best service possi-
ble,” Nikola added.
“That’s why we don’t
advertise. Imagine that
our renters see a com-
mercial where we brag
about 150.000 travel-
lers and 30.000 reser-
vations only in 2015 and
they have an empty bed.
That’s not right. So we try
to monitor the market,
manage the prices, use
inputs from the guests
and work with them on
a daily basis,” Nino added.
“Also, the number of
lost guests has drastically
dropped”, Nikola said and
smiled.
“It really happened. So,
one of the first things
was to establish auto-
matic e-mail with simple
and functional interface.
They can get location
info, book transfer or
contact us (among other
options) from 8 a.m. until
midnight 365 days a year,”
Nino summed it up.
From the moment a
tourist books the accom-
modation they manage
using Booking.com, Ago-
da, Expedia or any oth-
VIRAL KEY TO YOUR ROOM IN DUBROVNIK
BUSINESS
With Direct Booker
loyalty programme
you can fully enjoy
your holiday or
business trip
Summer jobs turned out to be successful business story for Nino
Dubretić and Nikola Grubelić. They’ve created Direct Booker, a local ser-
vice provider for those who seek accommodation and those who rent it
15. 28 29
S
m a r t -
p h o n e
apps that
could be
of use to
you dur-
ing your stay in
Dubrovnik are defi-
nitely “Dubrovnik
Card”, “Dubrovnik
Guide” and, if you’re
arriving by plane,
“Dubrovnik Airport”.
With the
Must have apps
while in Dubrovnik
“Dubrovnik Airport”.
With the
Dubrovnik airport
app you can eas-
ily check-in, see
inbound and out-
bound flights and
see the daily of-
fer of the duty free
shop. Also, the app
can help you with
finding transport
from the airport to
Dubrovnik, as well
as keep track of the
local weather to
stave off any unwel-
come forecast.
With the
“ D u b r o v n i k
CarD” app you
can find all
the informa-
tion about
Dubrovnik’s
landmarks,
points of
i n t e r e s t
and spe-
cial offers.
The app
can also
serve as
a guide to these lo-
cations, allowing for
a quick and easy way
to explore the city.
Make sure you have
an active Internet
connection! While
the“DubrovnikCard”
app allows access
for all the informa-
tion you’ll need via
to navigate the city’s
cultural wealth via
the aforementioned
card, “Dubrovnik
Guide” follows a dif-
ferent path: offering
a complete listing of
all the accommoda-
tion, food venues,
Direct Booker
has offices in
Croatia,
Montenegro
and France
er provider, they will
assist both the guest
and the accommoda-
tion provider. Guests
can easily book trans-
fers, excursions, cars,
scooters, boats, make
dinner reservation,
buy tickets to shows or
entrances to the muse-
ums.
On the other hand,
they have all IT support
for monitoring the
booking, cleaning and
welcoming services
that a renter may need.
It is wonderful to see
how company pays at-
tention to every sin-
gle client: “We have to
adapt to the lady who
doesn’t speak English
to the most demand-
ing renters,” Nino em-
phasized.
It has to be challeng-
ing, without a doubt,
in a business where
you have clients and
their clients. Anyone
who has ever worked
in tourism knows how
hectic that can be.
Well, in their office, the
atmosphere is friendly
with jokes, background
music and concentrat-
ed young staff.
“Our good com-
m u n i c a t i o n
and friend-
ship is a
base upon
which we
build the
office, and
I believe
it wouldn’t
work oth-
erwise,” Nikola
said with genuine sat-
isfaction and pride.
I wondered about the
problems and obsta-
cles they face. It can’t
all be that peachy.
“We can’t find enough
cleaners, drivers, etc.
and they cannot find
accommodation as
majority is rented to
tourists. It’s a vicious
circle. Hopefully in fu-
ture that problem will
be solved. Then, we
would get the oppor-
tunity to bring more
IT partners and con-
vert Dubrovnik
into our own
Silicon Val-
ley. Con-
s i d e r i n g
expanding
t o u r i s m ,
i n f r a -
structure’s
needs of
IT support is
definitely the
direction we are aim-
ing at,” Nikola shared
glims of their vision.
Whatever they are
planning, I’m certain
they’ll do it well.
16. 30 31
beaches and enter-
tainment that are of-
fered in Dubrovnik.
With just one click
you’ll be able to find
the restaurants and
beaches in your vi-
cinity and be a step
closer to enjoying
your day to the
fullest.
dIRECT bOOkER
Book the accommodation
in Dubrovnik region with
local experts. User friendly
app Direct Booker
is all you need
RURAl
dUbROVNIk
NERETVA APP
Use free wifi to upload
all info and use the
app ofline be patitent,
it may take a while
but it will lead you to
agritourisms, wineries,
restaurants, etc.
International Late Summer Music Festival Dubrovnik
(August – September)
Festival Autumn Music Variety (October)
Concerts during a year on Friday
www.dso.hr
Contact: +385 20 417 110
and sales@dso.hr
17. 32 33
A
ccording to City of Du-
brovnik’s Tourist Office sta-
tistics regarding the period
till July of 2016, the number
of Indian tourists has increased 65
% compared with the previous year,
and the number of their overnight
stays has increased 57 %.
NEW MARKET
As the number of guests from India
increases, Dubrovnik expands its offer
First Indian restaurant
Incredible India is opened
in the city centre
India
Tours visiting locations
where world famous TV
series Game of Thrones or
film Star Wars were shot,
already exist, so it is just a
matter of time when tours
for Bollywood fans will
appear
The reason for this sudden interest
of Indian tourists probably lies in the
fact that Bollywood blockbuster Fan
was filmed in Dubrovnik last year.
TheleadingactorofthefilmwasShah
Rukh Khan, one of the highest-paid
actors in the world who, although
had a minor injury on the set, posted
delighted comments about the city
on his Twitter profile, which has 20
million followers. The film sold out
Indian theatres, and the shots of Du-
brovnik,without anyextra sceneryor
special effects, make 20 minutes of it.
The positioning on the Indian mar-
ket proves activities of City of Du-
brovnik’s Tourist Office in India,
where its representatives had pre-
sentations in three cities, as well as
direct meetings with more than a
hundred agents. Dubrovnik was also
advertised in their prestigious news-
papers Mumbai Mirror, both printed
and online.
Dubrovnik is an ideal destination
for Indian tourists because most of
them go on holidays in May, it is their
high season and children have school
holidays, and Dubrovnik is not heavi-
ly crowded in that period so they can
have fully relaxed holidays.
It’s supereasy. Take 10am Libertas bus to Kotor, order kafa in the
shade of the stone walls of Kotor, take a walk and get back to
Dubrovnik by 3pm. During the trip you’ll have an amazing
view on Kotor Bay, Mediterranean’s only fjord.
Don’t forget to check your entry visa for Montenegro
and to bring your passport!;)
Find out more on http://libertasdubrovnik.com/
Country: Montenegro
Currency: Euro
Coffee price: 1,5 – 5 EUR
Coffee
in kotor?
By Ivona Butjer
18. 34 3535
I
t was just another
night of tension,
smoke and gam-
bling in Lisbon, the
spy capital of WW2, when
Ian Fleming saw Mr. Popov.
In the company of ladies in
smuggled shiny dresses,
spirits and money, he was
winning easily.
Some Lithuanian hot
shot was bragging with
unlimited stakes. Pop-
ov got tired of it, took
out his bag of money and
slammed it over the table.
In shock, the Lithuanian
retired without protest.
Almost ten years later,
Fleming couldn’t forget
the fierce but cool foreign
spy so he recreated the
scene in his opening novel
about James Bond - Casino
Royale. And how could he
- the guy was nothing like
the conventional German,
By Maro Marušić
British or Soviet spies. He
loved the action, luxuri-
ous lifestyle and beautiful
women. We can’t confirm
if he enjoyed the dry mar-
tini too.
Who was Popov?
Dušan Popov was born
into wealthy Serbian fami-
lythatmovedtoDubrovnik
when he was only a child.
Having Dubrovnik as a
playground, Duško got
very attached to its streets,
free spirit and intriguing
social life. His son Mark
will explain how Duško
had many friends here and
loved to play water polo.
After college in Germa-
ny, where he met another
world famous spy Johann
“Johnny” Jebsen, he re-
turned to Dubrovnik to
open a law firm. In French
documentary film about
Popov, the author high-
lights how Popov always
felt as Dubrovian and that
the city cosmopolite char-
acter has a great influence
in forming Popov as a
word stage player.
Being a triple agent
(MI6 code name Tricy-
cle) with large amount of
money, he really was in-
spiration for world’s most
famous agent James Bond.
He was equally known for
his great spy skills as well
as famous
girlfriends.
One of
them was
r a v i s h i n g
French actress
Simone Simon.
The whole
world should
know his name for
two very important
reasons.
At the beginning
of WW2, Nazi Germany
employed Popov and
sent him to the United
States to set up a spy net-
work. Working actually for
the Allies, he forwarded
them all the money and
never engaged any spies
for the Third Reich.
Moreover, upon re-
ceiving German intelli-
gence that mentioned an
American navy base in the
Pacific, with detailed in-
formation about the num-
ber of soldiers, ships etc.,
he went directly to warn
FBI’s J.E. Hoover of a pos-
sible attack. The informa-
tion never reached Pearl
Harbour.
But, his information
about the Allied invasion
of Europe did reach the
Nazis. Listening to his
tip, the majority of the
troops, including the elite
SS squad, were moved to
Calais, ready to bounce
back the inevitable hit. On
Omaha Beach, some 400
km south of Calais, the
Allies had, more or less,
a free run to final victory,
thanks to Popov.
For his contribution
and bravery, he received
the Order of the British
Empire medal. In 1974
he published his
memoirs
‘ S p y ,
C o u n -
t e r -
spy’.
James Bond:
The Spy Who
Loved Dubrovnik
Duško’s son Marko stated that he loved
Dubrovnik where he had many friends,
enjoyed playing water polo, and opened a
law firm just before WW2
The Cosmopolitan
spirit of Dubrovnik
left its mark on
Dušan Popov,
intriguing dou-
ble agent who
loved luxury
lifestyle, ac-
tion, gam-
bling and
w o m e n .
19. 36 37
Argentinian born - European based tenor, director, com-
poser, photography aficionado came to take charge of
and save the first days of the Dubrovnik Summer Fes-
tival 2016. The audience were all blurry eyed while he
conducted Puccini’s La Rondine and clapped ecstatically
after his Nessun dorma performance. His pictures on the
other hand, stripped away the glitter. We talked with him
just before the opening of his photography exhibition
“Espontáneas” in Sponza Palace
JOSÉ CURA - The one that
doesn’t belive in division
between popular and
classical music
// Conversation with Maestro
20. 38 39
T
he audi-
ence were
all blurry
eyed while
he con-
d u c t e d
Puccini’s La Rondine
and clapped ecstati-
cally after his Nessun
dorma performance.
His pictures on the
other hand, stripped
away the glitter. We
talked with him just
before the opening of
his photography exhi-
bition “Espontáneas” in
Sponza Palace.
dd: being a guest
of honour how did
you like the Opening
Ceremony of the 67th
dubrovnik Summer
Festival?
José Cura: It was
very emotional and
interesting to partic-
ipate. I could feel the
devotion of the people
and how they couldn’t
wait for the Festival to
begin. I think this Fes-
tival is very important,
however, I do know
there is a large group
of the population that
is discontented with
some of the arrange-
ments. Restaurant and
barowners saythat the
shows are taking away
their space. What they
don’t understand is
that Dubrovnik, with-
out the Festival, is a
body without a soul. I
believe the Festival and
the service providers
can perfectly coexist.
In fact, not just coexist,
but create a beautiful
marriage.
dd: You are also a
producer,howdoyou
resolve organiza-
tional obstacles?
José Cura: There
are always problems,
but problems are not
obstacles, they are
stimulations. Of
course, if you
have a great
team that
k n o w s
you, sup-
ports and
u n d e r -
stands how
to do things,
you can find solu-
tions for everything. I
know that they will ask
why am I interfering
in something that is
not my business. Well,
an artist bonds with
the places he visits.
And just because I’m
Latino that doesn’t
mean I’m only inter-
ested in Argentina and
Spain. At this moment,
I’m in Dubrovnik
and Dubrovnik is my
home, I feel it as my
own. Therefore, I do
care what is going on.
dd: We noticed how
you said thank you to
the members of the
Symphony Orchestra
of Croatian Radiotel-
evision with special
enthusiasm and also
explained to the au-
dience what it’s like
to perform under ex-
treme conditions.
José Cura: People
forget how exhausting
it is to perform
during a nor-
mal concert
because of
the pres-
sure, at-
te n t i o n ,
n e r v e s ,
everything.
If you add
40°C and 80% of
humidity during the
Opening Ceremony
and concert, the work
becomes inhuman.
Your hands sweat,
strings get wet so you
can’t play well. Also,
the voice is an organ,
not a computer. But all
of that doesn’t make
the music less beau-
...At this moment, I’m in
Dubrovnik and Dubrovnik is
my home, I feel it as my own...
For those
who have never
heard opera I
would suggest
la bohème and
la traviata
my home, I feel it as my own...
21. 40 41
tiful and if you’ll have
an audience that says
“Well, we are having
a hard time, but it’s
worse for you, so let’s
make the most of it” it
can become an amaz-
ing night.
dd:InyourEditorial
(on your web site jos-
ecura.com) you also
tried to explain the
difference between
classical and popular
music. A lot of peo-
ple often relate opera
with fancy dresses
and tuxedos.
José Cura: Classical
music has nothing to
do with that nor with
cars, jewellery etc.
Nothing at all. Mu-
sic that we consider
classical was always
the music of the com-
mon people, and the
real classical music
was music played in
churches. Also, people
say it’s expensive to go
to the theatre. But, be
honest, to see a show
costs less than going to
a football match. I pre-
fer if you tell me that
it’s boring and I’ll un-
derstand. And it’s true;
some of the shows and
plays really are, just
like a football match
they can be, boring.
dd: Your photos
don’t show anything
luxurious – they
present elderly peo-
ple, poverty, loneli-
ness...
José Cura: Exactly.
They are documentary
photographs, studies
of a person. It’s my way
of reading the world.
They are not works of
art but they do tell a
story. In the book “Es-
pontáneas” you will
find an explanation of
what is behind every
photo, how and why I
took it.
dd: Speaking of
everyday life, what
music do you enjoy
listening to in you
free time?
JoséCura: It’s the an-
swer that you probably
did not expect, but I
don’t listen to music in
my free time.
dd: What’s your
“guilty pleasure”
when it comes to mu-
sic?
José Cura: This is a
pleasure that I’m actu-
ally very proud of. A lot
of people ask me what
is my favourite singer
expecting me to say
Maria Callas and they
end up shocked when
I say Karen Carpen-
ter. A pop singer from
the seventies with the
most beautiful and
pure voice that has
ever been heard. The
only singer that really
moves me.
dd: What heritage
did you bring from
Rosario and Argenti-
na,apart from music?
José Cura: It’s the
passion.Foreverything
I do. Sometimes I even
exaggerate.
dd: What will be
your heritage to the
world?
José Cura: I always
say to my children
that I want them to
remember me as one
that never made com-
promises. With any-
thing or anyone.
Olja Ljubišić
I want my children to
remember me as one that
never made compromises.
With anything or anyone.
22. 42 43
ARCHAEOLOGICAL
SENSATION
UNDER THE
CATHEDRAL
By Lucija Komaić
42
ARCHAEOLOGICAL
HISTORICAL FINDINGS
It was an absolute
sensation the day
when the archaeologists,
during the renovation of
Dubrovnik Cathedral of
the Assumption of
the Virgin Mary,
“scratched” beneath the
surface and discovered
a monumental building
which refuted the
theory how Dubrovnik
was founded
23. 44 45
M
y t h
a b o u t
t h e
r e f u -
gees from the an-
cient neighbouring
Epidaurus island who
founded Dubrovnik,
mostly based on the
writings of the medi-
eval chroniclers, was
discredited by a dis-
covery of a beautiful
Byzantine basilica,
most probably from
the 6th century, whose
existence was com-
pletely unknown. It
changed the course of
the city history. In the
times when it was be-
lieved that Dubrovnik
was founded, there
was already a settle-
ment on the stony hill
and an organized com-
munity which had its
own church.
Although it has
been 30 years since
the archaeologists re-
vealed the secret of
Dubrovnik Cathedral
and found the Roman-
esque basilica in its
foundations, neither
many Dubrovnik citi-
zens nor the tourists
had a chance to step
into this underground
site of great impor-
tance. Under the foun-
dations of Dubrovnik
Cathedral, dedicated to
the Assumption of the
Virgin Mary, today still
lie impressive remains
of two older churches,
the Byzantine basilica,
most probably from
the 6th to the 9th cen-
tury, and the Roman-
esque cathedral from
12th knocked down in
the 17th century earth-
quake.
Dubrovnik Cathe-
dral, constructed be-
tween 1671 and 1713,
is a Baroque building
which wins hearts
at first sight with its
beauty and grandeur. It
is not only a zero-cat-
egory cultural monu-
ment with many works
of art and relics. With
the archaeological dis-
covery of two other
churches on the site,
especially of the Byz-
antine basilica, which
was an epochal event,
and the remains of the
Romanesque cathe-
dral demolished in the
earthquake, the cathe-
dral is the most im-
pressive proof of mil-
lennium continuity of
life and spirituality of
the city on a stone hill.
FOUNdING OF THE
CITY
Just a small hole
in the floor leads to a
great archaeological
site. Art historian Ivan
Viđen was a guide for
Dubrovnik Daily team
on this site that writes
the history of the city
The big earthquake
in 1667
destroyed the
Romanesque
cathedral from the
12th century, but
the other from 1979
enabled
discovery of the
Byzantine basilica,
whose dating from
the 6th to the 9th
century is still
discussed.
24. 46 47
and makes the impor-
tant part of its mosaic
and understanding of
its first centuries.
The big earthquake
in 1667 destroyed the
Romanesque cathedral
from the 12th centu-
ry, but the other from
1979 enabled discovery
of the Byzantine basil-
ica, whose dating from
the 6th to the 9th cen-
tury is still discussed.
It greatly damaged the
cathedral so it needed
an urgent renovation.
“After the earth-
quake in 1979,
Dubrovnik Cathedral
and The Rector’s Pal-
ace were chosen to be
the first two buildings
to be reconstructed.
As soon as the works
started in 1981, the ar-
chaeological research
started too. The whole
floor was removed
and a new one was set.
When the probes hit
the Byzantine apse, it
was a great shock, a
real sensation,” Ivan
Viđen explains.
“It was believed
that there was noth-
ing on the site of
Dubrovnik before the
Middle Ages, but there
were sporadic findings
(coins, pillar) which
prove that the humans
lived here in former
times”, Viđen says.
HISTORY OF THREE
CHURCHES ON THE
SAME SITE
Rewind journey
through Dubrovnik’s
history starts in its
Baroque cathedral. It
lays, as Viđen explains,
on the remains of the
Romanesque cathe-
dral demolished in a
strong earthquake in
1667. Byzantine cathe-
dral had three apses,
Romanesque had one
only one, just like the
Baroque.
Romanesque
cathedral de-
stroyed by earth-
quake in 1667
Romanesque cathe-
dral was built during
the period of 150 years
and, according to its
contemporaries, it was
the most beautiful in
the area. It was pulled
down in the 1667 earth-
quake, but the founda-
tions remained. When
Dubrovnik citizens
were building the Ba-
roque cathedral, they
covered the remains,
levelled the surface
and used the walls of
the Romanesque ca-
thedral as a base for
columns of the main
nave. In fact, all visi-
ble columns lie on the
walls of the Roman-
esque cathedral.
In the underground
area of the cathedral
it is interesting to see,
apart from the re-
mains of the Byzantine
basilica, foundations
of the Romanesque
cathedral with a vis-
ible crack caused by
the 1667 earthquake.
The crack is very im-
pressive; it takes your
breath away. If the
infamous shaking
caused such a hole in
the foundations, one
can only imagine how
it was on the surface.
The crack in the stone
gives evidence of the
power of nature which
devastated the city and
caused death of half of
city’s population.
Old paintings, writ-
ten records and relief
models of Dubrovnik
witness the looks of
the Romanesque ca-
thedral.
Regarding the erec-
tion of the Cathedral,
there is a legend about
25. 48 49
the English king Rich-
ard the Lionheart, who
was shipwrecked in a
storm on his return
from the Crusades
and cast aground on
Lokrum Island. Ac-
cording to the legend,
he made a vow to build
a church on the land
which saved his life,
but Dubrovnik citizens
convinced him to give
money to build the ca-
thedral in Dubrovnik
instead.
BYZANTINE BASILI-
CA, 6TH C. – 9TH C.
Discovery of this
church in 1982 was a
real sensation, but its
dating still provokes
different theories. One
theory claims it dates
from the 6th to the 7th
century, and the other
prefers the period be-
tween the 8th and the
9th century.
“The first theo-
ry makes more sense
because it is known
that in the 6th century
Justinian the emperor
built towns and for-
tresses all along the
coast of the Roman
Empire and even re-
newed the waterway.
If there was a town
in Cavtat, there must
have been a fortress
which transformed
into a settlement on
the site of Monastery
of St Mary de Castello.
Epidaurus slowly de-
teriorated, and Ragusa
grew,” Viđen says.
It is possible to visit
a well-preserved Byz-
antine basilica in the
underground area of
the cathedral by go-
ing through a small
narrow passage down
the steep stairs in the
hole of the floor of
Dubrovnik Cathedral.
At the other end of
the room the remains
of an altar, bench for
clergy and bishop’s
throne with stairs are
still visible. There is
also a fresco which is,
unfortunately, partly
damaged by the Ba-
roque foundations.
Only a half of it is vis-
ible, and it shows a
procession of the lev-
itating priests, thus
presenting them as ce-
lestial, not martyrs.
During the histo-
ry attitude towards
death changed, at that
time the priests and
bishops were buried
around the cathedral.
On each side of it there
were sarcophagi and
tombs visible to the
people on the streets.
That custom is very
important in defining
the end of a function-
al Byzantine church.
Under the cathedral
there is a preserved
sarcophagus of arch-
bishop Gerard, the last
Dubrovnik prelate who
was buried in it.
SARCOPHAGUS
OF ARCHBISHOP
GERARD
“The tomb of Arch-
bishop Gerard is is es-
sential for this story
because it determines
the dating of the Ro-
manesque cathedral.
Gerard was buried on
the outer part of the
Byzantine cathedral.
According to the
chronotaxis, he died
in 1131. If he is buried
there, it proves that
that was the last mo-
ment the Byzantine
cathedral was in func-
tion. It is believed that
after his death the con-
struction of the Ro-
manesque cathedral
started,” Viđen says.
A r c h b i s h o p
Gerard’s bones are
still preserved in a
sarcophagus under
Dubrovnik Cathedral.
Archbishop Gerard
is also very important
for the legend about
the English king’s
shipwreck on Lokrum
Island, which is related
to the construction of
the Romanesque ca-
thedral.
Archbishop Gerard
died in 1131, and the
Crusades ended in
1192. It is 60 years of
difference and Richard
the Lionheart couldn’t
donate funds for the
construction of the
Cathedral, but if it was
true, he possibly gave
the donation, but he
wasn’t the one who in-
itiated the project, the
City was the only one
who could make that
decision”, Viđen ex-
plains.
PLANS FOR FUTURE
In the eighties ar-
chaeological research
under Dubrovnik Ca-
thedral expanded on
the territory of Bunić
Square next to it. To-
day it is a favourite
place of Dubrovnik
visitors who enjoy its
many bars and restau-
rants without knowing
about the archaeolog-
ical treasure under
them.
On the site are also
discovered the re-
mains of older build-
ings, quadrifoliate
memory and late an-
tique defensive wall
with pieces of archi-
tectural plastics, stone
furniture and sculp-
tures from all periods
from the Late Antiq-
uity to the Baroque.
Thousands of fresco
fragments are found,
as well as more than
700 coins from the pe-
riod of the 3rd c. BC till
the 17th c.
Institute for Res-
toration of Dubrovnik
plans to make revi-
sory archaeological
research in the main
nave of the Byzan-
tine cathedral, which
could prove up-to-
date knowledge, but
also bring some new
discoveries. The idea
to open a new under-
ground museum of
that impressive ar-
chaeological site is
considered as well. Ex-
cellent motif to visit
Dubrovnik again!
26. 50 51
The beat
Lijerica was popular in the 18 century across the Eastern
Mediterranean but didn’t quite end up in the Music Hall of
Fame. Maybe, because it is a hell of a job to play it!
Nevertheless, her sound can be heard
A
small pear-
shaped, three-
stringed instru-
ment played
with a bow is
a sun around which all the
dancers gravitate. If you
come any closer, your feet
will take you too. That’s lijer-
ica. It sets the beat for Linđo,
fast and easy-to-get-dizzy
folklore dance of Dubrovnik
region. Lijerica was popular
in the 18 century across the
Eastern Mediterranean but
didn’t quite end up in the
Music Hall of Fame. Maybe,
because it is a hell of a job to
play it! At the same time, you
need to play it by hand and
set the rhythm by foot. It’s a
family thing, as it is hard to
persuade someone to start
playing lijerica if he hasn’t
been surrounded with this
beat.
Marko Kola not only plays
them but makes them as well
– in all sizes.The smallest one
is no bigger than a car key.
“My father left me the tools
and the wood. We make li-
jerice from prickly juniper
because it makes exception-
ally good sound. Alternatives
are mulberry trees, walnut,
maple, olive tree... My son
helps me with the tiny parts
and someday will continue
the family tradition.’
(www.facebook.com/Lijerica)
Order lijerica on:
BOGO
27. 52 53
By Tea Stjepović
Y
ears ago
George Ber-
nard Shaw said
If you want to
see a heaven on earth,
come to Dubrovnik.
Nowyou are finallyhere.
You have your own to-
do list. Place to sleep
– check. Place to eat –
check. Place to swim
and tan – check. Mil-
lions of memories and
photographs – check.
And then the times
come to go home and
bring some souvenirs
with you. You had a spe-
cial time here, and you
want people to know
that. So, this time you
decide to bring some-
thing great, something
that isn’t a postcard or
a magnet for the fridge.
It shouldn’t be so hard.
If you look around,
there are souvenir
shops in almost every
street. And
there are
plenty of
s t r e e t s .
To find
something
unique you
just need
to look
a little
outside
t h e
b o x ,
a n d
stretch
y o u r
legs.
Talking
about legs (and feet),
you can buy sneakers
designed and made
in Croatia. The Startas
from Borovo are just
adorable and a great
souvenir that you can
actually use! You can
choose out of a mul-
titude of colours, pat-
terns and models.
Sounds great?
Another thing you can
find inside the city
walls are spices. A lot
of spices, because what
is food without extra
flavour? There is a cute
shop with a good offer
of spices, you get a bag
with them, you can even
hang them on the wall.
Better put them in the
food because you can
hang some good photo-
graphs from Croatia on
the wall, not the spic-
es. In the same shop
just turn around and
you will find pretty an-
chor bracelets. If you
didn’t know, Dubrovnik
is well-known for sail-
ors. The bracelet will
always remind you of
Dubrovnik captains and
If you don’t want to bring home nothing but
memories, create ones! There isn’t a better place
than a restaurant around great meals, friendly
atmosphere and great design. Croatian designer
Marita Bonačić works all around the world but
finds the time to create unique spaces in her home
town Dubrovnik. Make reservation for Pantarul
and Barba restaurants for a designer experience!
DESIGN
Souvenirs
28. 54 55
D
ubrovnik is a mystical land, at
least as far as Game of Thrones
fans are concerned, so you need
something magical to bring
back home. Dubrovnik-born Dolores
Brbora transformed her passion into a
great start-up:
“As a lover of fantasy literature and art, I
put a lot of time, effort and passion into
my dragon jewelry. I try to come up with
designs that are both practical and totally
outstanding so that you can take a piece
of a magical world with you anywhere
you go. Everything is sculpted by hand so
each item is unique. I started doing this
around two years ago and I have been ad-
dicted to sculpting with clay ever since.
I think my jewelry is perfect for anyone
who likes whimsical fantasy inspired trin-
kets and knows how to cherish them.”
You can’t find these dragons in souvenir
shops, but you can check her page Reg-
num Draconis on Facebook.
seamen.
Is there anything better than an in-
teresting book while you try to tan
on the beach or lay in the shade of
a pine tree? Probably. But if you
are a book maniac, we have good
news for you. There is a souvenir
shop in Široka ulica inside the Old
Town which offers everything you
can imagine, from books to things
made by the Croatian designers.
For example, you can buy fish in
a pan made of rock dust! It looks
quite amazing. Or a fish bookmark.
Another special thing you can buy
only in Dubrovnik is unique jewel-
lery. A young local designer takes
things from nature and makes
rings, brooches and necklaces out
of them. So if you were, for exam-
ple, on Lokrum and smelt the trees
or saw an octopus in the hands of
a local fisherman, you could take
it with you. Yes, you have it on a
photograph, but can you imagine
how cool is it to have the octopus on
your finger, or a dandelion around
your neck? It is priceless. You can
find this special piece of art in Dom
Marina Držića or in boutique Kawa
on Ploče.
Kawa offers you a lot of designer
stuff. There you can buy really lovely
T-shirts for kids with national braid-
ing and sweet animals. It doesn’t
matter what is on it. If it is small and
cute – buy it! In Kawa you can buy
some extraordinary beer. Imagine
The magicOF WINTERTIME
During December and January, locals
gather around wooden houses in-
stalled in Stradun. Mild winter allows
spending more time outside, looking
for tastiest mulled wine and sausag-
es. Before going to a ski resort, stop
by and join us at Dubrovnik Winter
Festival.
that your friend is a huge fan of the
Beatles (who isn’t?) andyou bring him
the John Lemon beer? You immedi-
ately become his best friend forever.
There is also Bob Barley. Those two
make good songs together.
If you don’t like any of these propos-
als, you can always buy a postcard.
Wait! In the same shop, where these
two legends are singing together,
you’ll find canned postcards. Yes,
you’ve read it correctly. This cool
stuff is design work from Croatia.
Try not to buy it.
29. 56 57
V
egetables, fruits, dairy products,
fresh fish and shellfish, meat, flowers
arrive from Konavle, Pelješac, Župa
Dubrovačka and other countryside
areas around Dubrovnik to Gruž Green Market
every morning.
From 6 a.m. until it’s sold out you can find the
best the region has to offer – chard and potatoes
Green Market GRUŽ
(cook it and season with nothing more than ol-
ive oil and sea salt) with local white fish, mussels
(cook it as a stew or as we call it „na buzaru“), cut-
tlefish is great in a black risotto (don’t forget to
buy the ink as well), meat is delicious with rose-
mary, bay leaf, parsley. Tomato salad with local
cheese can be exquisite if you add capers.
Even if you buy only fruit as a refreshment,
youcan get inspired what to orderinarestaurant.
Pedestrian zone around the market, renaissance gardens,
museum dedicated to gastronomy in a 16th century villa
are planned to highlight the Mediterranean spirit of Gruž
To visit Gruž Market catch
Libertas city bus 1abc
(line Pile-Mokošica)
1.3 million euros worth
project of reconstruction
of the market is a joint
undertaking of the City of
Dubrovnik and Sanitat.
looking forward
T
here are two meeting points in Dubrovnik:
Pile Gate outside of the City Walls and
Cele inside. Not without a reason. Back
in 1930-ies, popular Dubrovnik’s dandy
Celestin Šikić created a perfect spot where he
can relax, have a nice meal, listen to music and
drink with his friends. Watching the people go by
from the terrace remained favourite social habit
till today.
Cele
Gourmet&lounge Dubrovnik
Placa 1, HR-20 000 Dubrovnik, Mob. +385 99 423 03 00, E-mail. anetti-cele@net.hr
Morning
Fresh baked croissants and
pastries, finest coffee, fruit
juices go perfectly with
morning newspaper.
Brunch time
From 7am-5pm order sand-
wiches, salads, connoisseur
cheese and cold platters plus a
variety of Italian, Mexican and
Asian inspired dishes, crepes.
Evenings
Live music creates ideal music
background to your cocktail or
wine moment.
Takeaway
Gourmet
gift shop
30. 58 59
E-SCOOTERS
D
uring the summer, when
the number of people in Du-
brovnik increases greatly,
scooter is everybody's favou-
rite means of transport, both locals'
and tourists'.
Since Dubrovnik is a Mediterranean
city with a mild climate, where tem-
peratures are rarely under zero de-
grees Celsius, scooter is an ideal
means of transport throughout the
year.
Therefore,The City of Dubrovnik, in
collaboration with Dubrovnik’s
companies, introduces a
hundred electric scooters
that will be rented for
a special price to the
locals and the visi-
tors – owners of Du-
brovnik card, which
offers discounts
on transport and
tickets for tourist
attractions.
E-scooters will run
Dubrovnik streets
from autumn of
2016, when the pilot
project begins, and its
full realization is expect-
ed to take place in sum-
mer of 2017.
everybody’s favourite means of transport
Electric scooters do not
release harmful emissions into
the atmosphere
15 electric recharging points
will be set all over the city.
Scooter battery unit lasts
from 60 to 100 kilometers before
it needs recharging.
P
arking is an issue is
every touristic town
and Dubrovnik is no
exception. In not so
distant future, within „Smart
parking“ project you will be able
to check available parking spots
in Dubrovnik in an instant,avoid
traffic jams and have more time
for everything else.
Sensors have been set be-
low 120 parking spots and will
broadcast their status – occu-
pied or free. Curently in the test
phase, both sensors and the ap-
plication will be available by the
end of 2016.
Parking doesn't
need to be a trouble
SMART CITY
looking forward
31. 60 61
T
he Golf Park
D u b rov n i k
Project will
be an exam-
ple of envi-
ro n m e n t a l
sensitivity, sustainabil-
ity, and advanced de-
sign, inspired by the
Magical project on Srđ –
Golf Park Dubrovnik
unique beauty of this
natural environment.
The beauty and power
of this site enable us
to create a unique and
unforgettable experi-
ence, in harmony with
the spirit and tradition
of this city. We will
provide an unforgetta-
ble stay, services, rec-
reational options, and
utilization of cultural
and natural resources.
Vision of Golf Park
Dubrovnik project is
to bring together an
extraordinary natural
environment with the
expertise of the fin-
est visionaries in the
world, to create the
best golf courses in
the world and to de-
velop biggest Green-
field investment in
this part of Europe. A
unique collaboration
between rich local his-
tory and culture and
local and world lead-
ing architects who will
shape this extraordi-
nary development into
unique oasis of sport,
natural beauty and
luxury in the Mediter-
ranean area. Golf Park
Dubrovnik will encom-
pass a number of out-
standing sports and
recreation facilities in-
cluding the world’s fin-
est golf courses, a rec-
reational park running
through the resort, cy-
cling and riding trails,
cultural epicenter of
art and music in am-
phitheater, all around
the beauty of Imperial
Fortress, the residenc-
es which will be un-
surpassed standard of
lifestyle with perfect
combination of Medi-
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32. 62 63
DUTY
FREE
SHOP
www.airport-dubrovnik.hr
tel: +385 (20) 773-100
DUTY FREE SHOPPING?
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PROBLEM!!!
You can fly
with all you buy!
T
en days earlier than the last year,
on July 28th 2016, Heather Noelle
Rhine landed safely on a flight TK
439 from Istanbul to Dubrovnik as
the millionth passenger.
She was awarded two return tickets from
Turkish airlines, three nights in a hotel for two
people, trip with a local company and two din-
ners, one in Dubrovnik, and the other one on
Lopud island.
„This is the best welcome I’ve ever had! It’s
my first time here and it’s pretty exciting,”
Heather didn’t hide her enthusiasm.
„We are very pleased that the millionth
passenger arrived on a Turkish Airlines flight,
a company that joined us recently and will
have flights to Istanbul throughout the year.
We are looking forward to this cooperation,“
Dubrovnik Airport director Roko Tolić said.
In addition, Croatia Airlines will also fly
three times a week to Frankfurt. New guests
Busy sky intersection
over Dubrovnik
dUBRoVnIK AIRPoRt
Heather Noelle Rhine - this year’s
millionth passenger in Dubrovnik airport
Upgrading and reconstruction will
be completed in spring 2017.
will be able to visit Dubrovnik and locals will
be able to fly to destinations all over the world.
This is not the only improvement. Upgrad-
ing and reconstruction of the Dubrovnik Air-
port terminal from 25,000 square meters to
more than double will be completed in spring
2017.
The European Commission approved 214.9
million euros worth project in order to prepare
it for accession to Schengen. It will co-finance
the project with a total of 158 million euros
grant, which is 73.6 % of the total eligible
costs. The remaining 57 million euros shall be
taken by an European Investment Bank loan,
Croatian Bank for Reconstruction and Devel-
opment and Dubrovnik Airport.
“Works proceed according to the timeta-
ble. The only thing that can affect the works is
the record transit because some of the works
simply can’t be done around thousands of pas-
sengers we have daily. But, we won’t complain
about that, won’t we?” Mr Tolić concluded.
lOOkINg FORWaRd
33. 64 65
PRICES
adults 100 kn
Children 20 kn
dISCOUNTS
3 day dubrovnik Card -20%
Weekly dubrovnik Card -50%
group -20%
