1. CustomMakingYourDress 3/15/06 08:55 AM Page 1
creating your
CUSTOM GOWN
If buying a car for a man is an emotional, exciting and sometimes expensive
purchase for him, then the correlating purchase for a woman must be the
purchase of her wedding gown. To help take some of the mystery out of the
search for the perfect gown, following are some suggestions…..
1. DO YOUR RESEARCH. Look at
magazines. Current magazines will
indicate the latest available styles.
Determine your likes/dislikes in terms
of silhouettes; keep your eyes open for
special details. Consider that the
gowns you see in magazines may be the
catalyst for designing something even
more creative and beautiful!
2. VISIT STORES. Pay attention to
fabric, cut, fit – learn why one is a $700
dress vs. a $7000 gown. Be open
minded, do try on a variety of gowns.
Do NOT get talked into buying a dress
(by the salesperson, your mother or best
friend) if it’s not absolutely perfect.
After all, you can have EXACTLY
what you want, if you have it designed
for you.
3. DETERMINE YOUR BUDGET. If
you HAVE to have the $7000 gown
that your budget forbids, maybe you
can rearrange your budget, i.e., get less
expensive flowers, music, food…often
with a custom gown, you can have
the perfect gown while you control
the cost.
Remember, of everything from the
wedding, your gown, ring and photos
are generally the only items you take
home (along, of course, with your
groom!) So keep in mind that whether
your gown is $500 or $15000, it should
be one you are excited about.
One way to be truly excited about
your gown is to have it custom designed
– a couture gown will fit and flatter
your figure and personality in the way
an off-the-rack gown can only dream
about! If you are going to consider
couture, again, do your research.
Go to the internet, ask for referrals,
visit studios/shops. Inspect the quality of
the work and fabrics presented. Find out
written by Janice Martin, Janice Martin Designs • photo by Phil Kramer Photographers, Inc. if you must provide your own fabrics or
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whether you may purchase it under the
auspices of the shop. Is the work done
on site or off premises? Ask questions.
Determine if you are comfortable with
the person you will be working with...
do you prefer a designer/collaborator or
designer/dictator? Do ask for
an estimate. Does it include
fittings? Fabric? Trims? Pressing?
Taxes? Shipping?
Discuss costs. Be honest/realistic
about your budget. Most designers
require a deposit with final payment
due prior to delivery. If your budget is
generous allow the designer some
creativity; if stringent, be honest and
let him or her know so that they will
present you with realistic ideas for
your gown. There are many ways to
increase or decrease the cost of a
gown depending upon the fabrics,
trims and styles chosen, so don’t
assume that the estimate you receive
is unalterable. Remember that the
gown being designed for you is one-of-
a-kind and so may not be less
expensive than that found off-the-
rack (although it could be)… but it
will certainly be more perfect for you!
HOW DOES IT HAPPEN? Designing
is a very logical process which
produces the most magical of gowns…
during the consultation you will
choose fabric, discuss silhouettes,
ideas, details (your figure, personality,
the location and date of the event will
all influence the design of your gown).
Measurements are taken and a muslin
(fabric pattern) is made from which
necklines are cut and waistlines
determined. The muslin fabric dress
IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS
allows you to draw in design lines so The White House: 202-456-1414
that you know exactly where each
dart, tuck and pleat will go. You The Vatican: 390-66982-69883511
WWW.PHILLYDJS.COM
become part of the process as you
see/try on/alter and change the muslin
before it gets cut in silk… you
influence the design of it even as it
evolves from sketch to muslin to
finished perfection!
215-668-0252
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THERE ARE SEVERAL REASONS
WOMEN CONSIDER COUTURE:
1. They hate to shop or don’t want
to waste their time shopping.
2. They want better design and
quality than that found
off-the-rack
3. Their time is too limited – they
need the dress in three months
or three days. OR
4. They have already been to
32 stores in three states, tried on
75 dresses and none of them
were "quite right".
THESE PHOTOS FOLLOW
THE DEVELOPMENT OF
KAROLYN'S GOWN.
1. The hand beaded chantilly lace was
chosen from among numerous French
lace patterns available. The color of
the lace was influenced by Karolyn’s
coloring and the fabric chosen to go
under it. Often, a gown is layered with
silk organza in pink, peach, etc., to
lend more depth of color and richness to it. Janice Martin Designs is located
on Main Street in Philadelphia
2. A bustier is built on which to support the and has been producing couture
women’s wear for over fifteen
heavily beaded lace. The bustier is made from years. In addition to creating new
Karolyn’s measurements that have been turned pieces, the studio also specializes in
into a muslin or "first pattern". re-designing heirloom gowns, a
niche developed as a result of
restoring Princess Grace’s bridal
3. A second muslin pattern becomes the dress. At
veil for the Philadelphia Museum
this point, any fit or design issues get hammered of Art. Ms. Martin offers exclusive
out before cutting into the final fabric. and/or custom made fabrics from
small European mills. For clients
4. Lace is cut/draped over the four-ply bias silk whose time and budget allow, the
design services of the famed French
under-dress. It is hand basted, trimmed and
embroidery firm Lesage are
sewn into place. available. You are encouraged to
visit the website at
5. Finishing details, trim, hand-beading, buttons, www.JaniceMartin.net and/or call
train are all discussed and determined… et voila, 215-487-7171 for an appointment
or to have any questions answered.
c’est magnifique… and all done in under three
months!!! Whether you need the gown next week
or next year, the staff at Janice
Martin Designs looks forward to
meeting you. They are highly
experienced perfectionists who won’t
let an imperfect stitch slip by!
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