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Camelias
1.
2. Published by
Text
Translation
Photographers
Creativity and Design
Printed by
DepĂłsito Legal
Turgalicia /
MarĂa Eugenia Ruiz de AzcĂĄrate /
Alex Paxton de AzcĂĄrate /
Archivo Turgalicia / Carmen Salinero / EstaciĂłn
FitopatolĂłxica do Areeiro (DeputaciĂłn de Pontevedra) /
Fran Nieto / Marta Arias / PĂo GarcĂa / Sociedad Española
de la Camelia / VĂctor GonzĂĄlez / Xurxo Lobato / Otros /
FusiĂłn Servizos Creativos /
Argrove S.L. /
C 1450-2011
Pazo de Mariñån
Alameda de Santiago de Compostela
Pazo de Santa Cruz de Ribadulla
Pazo de Oca
Casa-Museo RosalĂa de Castro
Pazo de RubiĂĄns
Pazo Quinteiro da Cruz
Pazo de A Saleta
Pazo de LourizĂĄn
Castelo de Soutomaior
Parque de O Castro
Pazo-Museo Quiñones de León
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3. Itâs raining on Santiago
my sweet love.
The windâs white camellia
sparkles her sorrow to the sun.
Federico GarcĂa Lorca
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INTRODUCTION
THE ROUTE OF THE CAMELLIA
Pazo de Mariñån
Alameda de Santiago de Compostela
Pazo de Santa Cruz de Ribadulla
Pazo de Oca
Casa-Museo RosalĂa de Castro
Pazo de RubiĂĄns
Pazo Quinteiro da Cruz
Pazo de A Saleta
Pazo de LourizĂĄn
Castelo de Soutomaior
Parque de O Castro
Pazo-Museo Quiñones de León
INFORMATION AND VARIETIES
Types of Camellia
A selection of varieties
Exhibitions and competitions
Information about gardens
General information
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THE ENIGMATIC
BEAUTYOF THE ORIENT
We donât know whether or not Marco Polo brought some camellias
as a keepsake from China but if he did, he opened the way, unknowingly,
for the first peregrine camellias which, centuries later, illuminate the Galician
winter and landscape, as well as the Galician soul, on a route from pazo
to pazo, from one garden to another.
The Portuguese were the first ones to introduce into Galicia the Orientâs
enigmatic beauty in the form of these subtle and delicate tea flowers, which
were known as camellias after 1735. The Chinese used them to try to trick the
English because their buds, as beautiful as they are, canâ t be used for adding
flavour to boiling water.
The Chinese, who had a 2000-year advantage as far as tea was concerned,
were prepared to protect the secret of the infusion process at any price,
so they would offer them the flowers, and keep the leaves for themselves.
However, the English didnât yield an inch; they had discovered
that there was considerably less risk of scurvy on the ships in which tea
was consumed, -in the course of time it became clear that this phenomenon
was the result of vitamin C in the leaves- something which Chinese sailors
had known about for centuries. And while the English and Dutch devoted
themselves enthusiastically to the study of the properties of the leaves,
the discarded flowers travelled aboard their ships to London and Lisbon.
It was from these places that the âtea flowersâ found their way into Galicia,
having been re-named camellias in honour of a Jesuit missionary.
Later, Chanel chose them as the epitome of elegance, as a reminder
perhaps of those camellias which might very well have travelled with
Marco Polo along the silk route -could there be any other way?
And in this way Galicia came to own the only route in Europe which
is specifically devoted to the contemplation of more than 8.000 varieties
of camellias which flourish in the streets, plazas, and villages.
Camellias came from the Orient; but they are Galician.
8. 8
Pazo de Mariñån
Alameda de Santiago de Compostela
Pazo de Oca
Casa-Museo RosalĂa de Castro
Pazo de RubiĂĄns
Pazo Quinteiro da Cruz
Pazo de A Saleta
Pazo de LourizĂĄn
Castelo de Soutomaior
Parque de O Castro
Pazo-Museo Quiñones de León
Pazo de Santa Cruz de Ribadulla
10. 10
PAZO DE MARIĂĂN
CAMELLIAS
AROMASAND SILENCE
âLa nada, aquĂâ -epitaph appears within the garden walls. The sculptor
created the art, and the Pazo provided the legend. Near the pier in the gardens
of the Pazo of Mariñån, there is a marble plaque with the inscription âLa nada
aquĂâ which literally means, âHere is nothingâ.
No one is sure whether this refers to philosophical or religious matters,
or even a disheartening epitaph on a gravestone, but this certainly inspires us
to think, it awakens our curiosity, and adds to the Pazoâs legend. Above all
because this stone has a wavy shape, just like the cameos that women wore
pinned close to their bosoms. Could this refer to something which happened one
night at full moon, two men in cloaks, in a boat with a lady? One thing is
for sure, a murder took place.
Clearly the murder victim came back from the spirit world as a ghost, to
show his beloved the futility of our human existence: âHere, there is nothingâ,
âSic transit gloria mundiâ reads his memorial stone on the wall which separates
the Pazo from the river. The ladyâs wave-shaped cameo slipped through her
fingers, and she instantly crossed over to the âspirit worldâ and has never again
been seen in our world, not even as a ghost.
Centuries later, on a visit to the site of the tragedy during a full moon,
the sculptor unconsciously revived the memory of the oddly-shaped cameo. The
legend says that any traveller who is prepared to face the Unknown may repeat
this experience, when there is a full moon.
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PAZO DE MARIĂĂN
To find the magical spot at which these events occurred, whether the
story be true or imaginary requires that first you must walk through a park,
filled with fragrances and silence, a route replete with camellias surrounded by
the rich dark green aroma of a eucalyptus forest, bay trees, lavender and the
box hedges of a labyrinth. The dewy buds of the camellias tell us that the river
is nearby.
Mariñånâs camellias gaze across to the other side of the river. There are
some canoes, a house and an occasional train which transport the travellerâs
dreams to places unknown, oblivious to time. The stone reads âHere there is
nothingâ because in Mariñån eternity takes the shape of a camellia.
14. ALAMEDA DE SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
On their arrival at Compostela the Camellias become Jacobean.
Displayed on the pilgrimâs staff, they lend gaiety to the restfulness of the
tree-lined Alameda. They look out over a magic postcard-landscape which has
somehow been made real.
If the traveller is quite carried away, the pilgrim can look back on his life,
and perhaps thanks God for what he sees before him, even though this is an image
which has been seen many times. The camellias, spread everywhere over the
horseshoe-shaped pathway, they are accomplices in his delight, and respectful
of his silence.
The Alameda in Santiago is the natural meeting place of what was once
a rural area which has now become urban. The pathway which winds around
the hillside is home to ancient oak trees, called âcarballosâ in the local Galician
language. These provide shelter to the hermitage of Santa Susana, which
stands in a site once occupied by a Celtic settlement.
FLOWERS
JACOBEAN
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PAZO DE SANTA CRUZ DE RIBADULLA
CELLOPHANE
CAMELLIAS GENTLY WRAPPED IN
The camellias in the Pazo of Santa Cruz de Ribadulla, gently wrapped in the
cellophane-mist, which is so typical of their home, are not merely illustrious, but
illustrative. Illustrious for their antiquity, and because of their close links with the
household. Illustrative because, even when their bloom begins to fade, their
paper-like texture which feels like old silk even after their season is over, must have
accompanied the famed writer and politician Jovellanos, as they lay inert on the
very same stone table on which the great man drafted some of his most thoughtful
essays.
But Jovellanos missed the best of the camellia season as it was already mid
April, and most of the flowers had already died; the delicate blooms lay scattered
everywhere, face up, expired yet perfectly formed.
From that time on, the camellias in Ribadulla grew wild, in their natural
state as a botanist might say. Fleeing from the garden, they made their way into
the woods. Then Mother Nature took over, haphazardly dispersing camellia seeds
according to the whim of birds or the wind. She let the plants flourish wherever they
might land. And just as it happened in Japan, the original homeland of these flowers,
a forest of Camellias began to grow there, and became an ever-changing forest.
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PAZO DE SANTA CRUZ DE RIBADULLA
Surrounded by murmuring fountains and rustling leaves, midst waterfalls
and secret nooks, more than 200 varieties of camellias renew themselves each
winter. Magnolias, no less venerable and leafy than the camellias, envelop them
in their sweet scent. Then the woods,which are already a very special place,
become something quite unique: a forest of camellias.
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Silver and Stone. A white camellia served on a silver platter
laid on a cloth which might have been made by the notorious lace makers
of the nearby town of Camariñas; this is Oca.
Stylish and cheerful, impertinently red camellias, hang from the
branches in what used to be a fruit orchard; this is Oca. A pazo which is
so baroque that it couldnât possibly be more Galician or more beautiful.
A thousand spouting fountains remind us of the sound of running water in
the public laundry fountains which can still be found in Galician villages.
The slow smooth movement of the ducks as they paddle about the pond is
dreamlike, they bring to mind courtly elegance of silk. It is a garden in which,
the hesitant winter light, conjures up all the subtleties of a poem.
âKeep workingâ, orders an accusatory finger, carved in stone on one
of the fountains. And the camellias take heed as they consent to the whims
of one who, almost certainly, was their original master. Since the origins of the
garden in the mid eighteenth century, some of the camellias have grown
to more than 8 metres high. Others, trimmed in the form of umbrellas,
remind us that in Oca, they still can show off their foliage as late as April
or even May, to coincide with the hortensias.
PAZO DE OCA
CAMELLIAS MADE OF
LACE
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PAZO DE OCA
It doesnât really matter if these are amongst the very oldest camellias in
Europe, although indeed they are; nor is the botanical name the most important
thing here. In Oca, the camellias evoke just one thing-Beauty.
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Camellias are like lines of verse. The Camellias at the house of the
famous Galician poetess RosalĂa de Castro, dwell in a small but cheerfully romantic
garden, part daydream and part vegetable garden, an irresistible stimulus
for poetic creation.
And like the opening lines of a poem, they welcome the visitor on his arrival,
and accompany him at each stage of his visit to this incredibly lyrical spot.
Following a twisty path, one enters into a tunnel of greenness which finally
leads to a stone table, shaded by a grapevine. Some camellias are no more than
buds. Whatâs more, they are shaped like almond shells, as though they harbour
some secret, could it be a poem?
Others perch on the tops of box hedges, as imperturbable as though they had
never known any other home. Petite and perfect, like the poppies worn in the lapel
in much of Europe on the 11th of November to celebrate Armistice Day.
CASA-MUSEO ROSALĂA DE CASTRO
HOUSE AND MUSEUM OF ROSALĂA DE CASTRO
ROSALIAâS CAMELLIAS:
EACH ONE IS A
POEM
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Under the gaze of the prosaic fig trees, other camellias luxuriate
everywhere throughout the garden, enveloped in the fragrance of nearby roses
and the aroma of orange and lemon trees, like lines of verse.
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CASA-MUSEO ROSALĂA DE CASTRO
HOUSE AND MUSEUM OF ROSALĂA DE CASTRO
30. 1630
PAZO DE RUBIĂNS
A journey through time. The camellias in the pazo of RubiĂĄns live
in a garden pervaded by medieval shadows. A garden which slowly moves down
the paths of time.The eucalyptus has been here since the 18th century,
and over there, a couple of magnolias whose origins go back to the founding of
the house. Everywhere you go, time seems to provide us with road signs which
explain everything about the garden.
Have those magnolias really been there since 1380? Perhaps RubiĂĄns
had the unusual privilege of being present at the birth, childhood and
adolescence of these ancient magnolias. What other house can say the same?
For centuries the camellias have been âchoosing their own wayâ,
spreading where they will, no less ancient for being frivolous and gay.
They redeem the gardenâs sobriety, and their rose-like pallor contrasts
with the solid demeanour of the Pazo.
CAMELLIAS
MEDIEVAL
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The camellias of Quinteiro da Cruz light up a garden with the soul
of a museum. A collection of unique and unusual pieces blossom within the
box hedges which separate the flowerbeds from the pathways. There are
arbours, hidden nooks and crannies and stone steps, leading at last
to a landscape full of vineyards.
Elusive, and by their nature unique, the camellias in Quinteiro da Cruz
spread all through the garden towards the beginning of February, splashing colour
everywhere and their vivid sparks glimmer through the dark box hedges.
When they die, their glory is truly a monument.
This heritage of beauty gets more impressive each new Winter
with the arrival of countless new varieties which make up an exhibition of beauty
which is for our time and for all times. Camellias from the Orient (Viet Nam,
Japan and China), sometimes (dare one say it) from the realm of imagination.
This is the world where flowers are fine Art.
PAZO QUINTEIRO DA CRUZ
A GARDEN WITH THE
OF A MUSEUM
SOUL
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Ephemeral, serene. Avant garde black-red camellias with freckly
petals, true masterpieces to be found in Quinteiro da Cruz.
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PAZO QUINTEIRO DA CRUZ
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âThere by the wood, they veiled their blushes just before winter.â
Around 1968, an Englishman with a âgreen thumbâ came to live in the rural part
of Galicia, and decided to apply his unusual gift to the gardens of A Saleta.
When the camellias learned about this special talent, they responded to
his magic touch with an unprecedented explosion of colour. Some of them went
so far as to exhale something of their own bouquet, discretely, of course as is
only natural for a camellia.
Under these conditions, the camellias which the Englishman brought from
his country and from elsewhere quickly adapted to A Saleta and the Galician
countryside. Where vineyards had flourished, great walls of flowers sprang
forth, scattered here and there like islands of colour throughout the meadows.
âThere by the wood, they veiled their blushes just before winter.â
PAZO DE A SALETA
CAMELLIAS
IN THE
WOODS
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PAZO DE A SALETA
The camellias also won the approval of the local roosters, who still
cry out their songs of praise with an enviable enthusiasm and regularity.
Ever since the 19th century, A Saleta has always has been more of a working
farm than a Pazo, despite its chapel, its dovecote and its cypresses. Over
the years, more than 200 varieties of camellia have taken possession
of the arbour, the secluded byways and the elegant neglect so typical
of English gardens can be enjoyed here, such is A Saleta.
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PAZO DE LOURIZĂN
Under the vaulted green branches of a tangled woodland, a fiery candle
suddenly lights up the mountainside. But thereâs no cause for alarm, itâs only the
setting sun, thrusting itself through the branches, bathing the crystalline fountains
with light and tingeing the flowing waterfalls with the sparkle of its reflected rays.
The camellia blossoms are swept away by the stream, as if in a tobogan,
painting the waters with their rose and fuchsia hues, contrasting with
the darkness of the river banks.
Some of the blossoms float along the waterways, past mill, outdoor wash
wells and fountains. Others carpet every corner and path with their faded petals
and dried leaves. Like fluffy cretonne cushions, myriads of fallen camellias
cover the iron benches, nicknamed âThe Spanish Remorseâ a name which is easy
to understand when you sit there and find you have an iron nose or two heads
thrusting into your back. The workmanship is exquisite, but you might
end up wishing you hadnât sat there!
CAMELLIAS
OF
FIRE
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PAZO DE LOURIZĂN
Occasionally, towards the end of winter, the camellias go to rest
upon a low stone table upon which the politician Montero RĂos, the original
owner of the Pazo and who was also quite short, used to sort out the worldâs
problems. So we see that in LourizĂĄn, walking over a bed of flowers is not
merely a metaphor. At least, not if you are strolling over a bed of camellias.
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In Soutomaior Castle, the camellias mingle with the roses. A fragrance
and a colour which should take pride of place in the coat of arms of the Castle,
in contrast with the fierce medieval fortress that it once was.
Pedro Madruga once lived in Soutomaior as a feudal lord quite given
over to hangings and the sword and who went so far as to lock Bishop
Don Diego de Muros in a cage, parading the spectacle throughout the region,
making a laughingstock of that man of the cloth. In those days there were
no camellias in Soutomaior, but certainly there were chestnuts in abundance,
and perhaps grapevines as well. Much later orange trees, eucalyptus, palms and
of course camellias arrived. In the beginning there were clusters of camellias
here and there in the park, finally spiraling around the hillside, forming
garlands of colour.
White camellias, as immaculate and fresh as cream cakes in a basket.
Big ones, open like yellow and red dahlias. Then there are the roses, of course,
in every shade and shape.
CASTELO DE SOUTOMAIOR
SOUTOMAIOR CASTLE
SHELL-PINK
NOBILITY
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Rose-coloured in this case means shell-pink, the almost inevitable
colour of fallen camellias. Their dark golden petals, almost ochre, are arranged
like carpets in intricate arabesques in the streets of many Galician towns for
funeral processions or for the important celebration of Corpus Christi. Perhaps
so as to make amends.
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CASTELO DE SOUTOMAIOR
SOUTOMAIOR CASTLE
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Some share their inquisitiveness with neighbouring oranges trees or
perhaps with a softly weeping cypress, distressed by the thick leaves of a giant
blushing-pink camellia which intrudes upon their view. A venerable Portuguese
camellia, one amongst many Portuguese varieties which clamber up the hillside till
they reach the remains of a castle and an observation balcony called âlas Anclas,â
or âanchors,â contemplates an intense red sun as it recedes and finally falls into
the sea. The evening falls and the Camellias become twilight blossoms still.
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PARQUE DE O CASTRO
O CASTRO PARK
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Never has a public garden been so private. The garden of the
Quiñones de León Pazo in Castrelos gives off such an intimate feeling,
that the visitor gets the impression of wandering through a private garden,
as a guest of the family.
The gardenâs welcome is so warm that each visitor feels like a
part-owner, lord and master of all he or she surveys, during the visit: coats
of arms carved in stone, flowerbeds, fountains and if the wise traveller has
decided to visit Quiñones de León during the Winter season, he will be able
to fully enjoy all of the camelliasâ outburst of color.
It is only an illusion, but a true one: from late February on, the
camellias in Quiñones de León perform one botanical exploit after the other.
For example, the feat of displaying two flowers of different colours
on the same branch. The âMethuselahâ of the camellias has been carrying out
the same miracle amid the box hedges and flowerbeds of the French Garden
ever since 1860, or even earlier.
PAZO-MUSEO QUIĂONES DE LEĂN
QUIĂONES DE LEĂN MUSEUM
CAMELLIAS
PRIVATE
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But the camellias of the English Garden, the Rose Garden, or the
ones which, like chinese lanterns, illuminate a disquieting cave of dark foliage,
they just keep on carrying out their everyday miracle before the eyes of their
proud owner who is yours the traveller, as you explore the Pazo.
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PAZO-MUSEO QUIĂONES DE LEĂN
QUIĂONES DE LEĂN MUSEUM
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Simple
From 5 to 8 petals with stamen
visible in the inner circle.
Double Incomplete
Numerous petals overlapping.
Stamen visible when the flower is open.
Anemone
One or more rows of exterior petals surrounding a
globe-shaped centre formed by stamens and petaloids.
Semi-double
Two or more rows of petals (more than 8)
either smooth or curly. Stamen visible.
Double Complete
Several rows of petals overlapping.
Stamen not visible.
Peony
Globe-shaped flower with a mixture of irregular
petals and petaloids, or of both, plus stamens.