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Auto 131 Lab Experience Report 
Part 1: Vehicle Information 
  
Student name(s): 
TJ Mathews 
Eddy Torres 
 
Vehicle year, make, model:  
1994 Jeep Cherokee   
  
Customer’s name & repair order number: 
Austin Laibly 9897 
  
Customer’s concern(s): 
Driver side window door is not working, but the switch moves the rest of the windows. Radio 
doesnt turn on. 
  
Part 2:  Documentation  
Document the steps you took to diagnose and repair the vehicle—in the order that you did 
them.  Write every step—even if you made mistakes and now wish you would have done it 
differently.  Begin when you picked up the keys, end when you returned them.  BE 
DETAILED & INCLUDE PHOTOGRAPHS! 
 
After we picked up the keys from the office                 
It took us awhile to find the vehicle               
because the secretary was not very           
specific on where the car was parked. All               
she said was that it was parked             
somewhere on center street and didn't           
give us the color or licence plate. We               
found a total of 4 vehicles of the same                 
make and year parked in different spots             
on center street. Two of them had the               
service tag from the automotive department and our key unlocked both cars. Luckily we                           
were able to locate the right one and our keys only started the engine of one of the cars. As                                       
soon as we found the right vehicle, we verified that the driver side window and the radio                                 
were not working. Then we brought the car In the shop, opened the hood, and performed a                                 
visual inspection. Since everything seemed to be normal in the inspection, we searched for                           
possible Technical Service Bulletins but nothing relevant to our repair was found. We                         
decided to look and study the wiring diagram for the driver side circuit and started narrowing                               
down the problem by isolating each           
component and verifying that they         
were working properly. We started         
by measuring the state of charge of             
the battery with our multimeter and           
measured 12.5 V. Since we had           
good voltage in the battery, we could             
move on to the next component in             
the circuit and continue narrowing         
down the problem. We went back to             
the wiring diagram and found out           
that there’s only two cables that connect the window motor to the switch. These cables can                               
switch between power and ground depending on whether the switch is pressed for the                           
window to go up or down. Knowing this, we decided to use a test light to see if all the                                       
components were getting power and ground to energize the circuit.  
We managed to locate where the switch was and began to remove the door panel. Once all                                 
the cables were visible, we reconnected the master switch to start the testing. Since the                             
battery was closer to the passenger side of the car, we had to use jumper cables connected                                 
to each other to reach the driver’s door. The                 
wiring diagram showed that there was a light               
blue and a white cable that connected power               
and ground from the switch to the motor. We                 
decided to start there since it was easy to                 
access and it was right in the outer terminals of                   
the switch. After we back probed the terminal,               
when we pressed the switch to go up the test                   
light turned on. Then we connected the jumper               
cables to the ground side of the circuit and ran                   
the same test but this time when pressing the                 
window down, the test light turned on, proving               
that we had power and ground coming from the                 
battery to the window switch. These results             
were very exciting because it meant that until               
that point of the circuit we had continuity, good                 
power and good ground. So every component going to the battery including the switch had                             
current flowing. The only components left were the               
window motor, and the two cables connected to it.                 
To keep narrowing down the problem, we back               
probed the cables all the way to the window motor                   
and found that the test light turned on when the                   
window was going up and down, meaning that our                 
power and ground to that point was good. We had                   
narrowed the problem down to the point where we                 
knew that the only component that was not working                 
was the window motor. We decided to do a voltage                   
drop in the window motor just to make sure we                   
were getting enough voltage to move the motor.               
Our measurement was 12.15 V. Since the voltage               
drop showed that there was good voltage going               
into the motor, but the motor was not moving, a continuity test was performed in the motor                                 
with the multimeter in the ohm setting. We turned on the beeping mode, and as soon as we                                   
connected it to the motor it started beeping, confirming that there was continuity in the                             
component.  
Once we were confident that we found the root of the                     
problem, we went to omnique to search for a                 
compatible part, and after getting approval from the               
customer the part was ordered. Once the part arrived,                 
we found that the part we received from NAPA did not                     
have the right gears on the motor. We looked to see if                       
the other motors listed had the right gears but we                   
decided that we could just take the lock ring off of the                       
old motor and remove the gears and then switch the                   
gears with the new motor. We were not very sure if it                       
would actually work but to our amazement it was a                   
perfect fit.  
 
We went ahead and moved to the next complaint which was the radio not working. A printed                                 
a wiring diagram was located, and we studied it for a moment. Then we decided to take the                                   
radio apart and back probe each one of the components to narrow down the search just like                                 
we did to the window motor. This time, instead of using the testlight, we decided to use the                                   
voltmeter because we not only wanted to know if we had                     
power going through the system, but we wanted to know                   
exactly how much voltage we were getting in each                 
cable. We tested the power and ground coming from the                   
battery to the radio module and measured 12.5 V. then                   
with the keys in the run position and we connected our                     
leads to the ground and to the power cables of the                     
ignition switch and found no voltage, meaning that there                 
was an open circuit somewhere. We followed the               
ignition cable to the actual fuse box and found that the                     
15 amps fuse for the radio ignition was blown, which is                     
why we thought about using a breaker switch instead of                   
putting a new one, to try to find why it blew in the first                           
place. After speaking with Brother Schmalle, we went               
ahead and connected our leads to the positive side of the battery and with our test light                                 
touched the positive side of the terminal where the fuse was connected and negative side of                               
the circuit where the fuse was blown and our test light turned on, letting us know that there                                   
was no short to ground in the positive side. Afterwards we decided to connect a fuse breaker                                 
to try to double check if the fuse would blow, but the radio worked just fine. We tried using it                                       
with the car turned on, tried increasing the volume,                 
moving the wires, and nothing tripped the circuit               
breaker, confirming us that there was no short circuit.                 
Then we went ahead and went to the tool room and                     
billed a new 15 amp fuse for that vehicle and                   
proceeded to install it. The repair was verified, and the                   
fuse was never blown again. We went ahead and                 
installed everything back together, but we couldn't find               
one of the clips for the door handle to open the door.                       
we didn’t think that it would matter much, because that                   
clip was just holding the rod to open or close the door,                       
so we decided to go put it back in together without it,                       
but when we tried to use the handle, it wouldn't lock or                       
open the door. We had to go back and disassemble the                     
door again, find the missing door clip, install it correctly and reassemble the door back again.                               
Before calling the customer, we verified both the complaints, showed it to our instructor,                           
cleared all the errors in omnique, printed off the repair order onto pink paper for the office                                 
and Brother Schmalle. We finished by parking the car on center street as well as turning the                                 
keys and the paper into the automotive office. After this we called the customer and told                               
them their car was ready for pickup.  
 
 ​Part 3:  Reflection & Analysis 
∙​       ​What parts of this process went well? 
 The parts of the process that went well we thought were we followed the diagnostic 
procedures. We also felt like we were able to focus on one of the problems before we moved 
onto the next problem.  
  
∙​       ​Which steps were most critical in your diagnosis process? 
 Studying the wiring diagram and knowing how the circuit works before we performed all the 
tests was one of the most important steps to diagnose this vehicle. Because we decided to 
spend a little bit more time understanding the wiring diagrams, it was easier for us to 
determine which test to perform to find the problem.  
  
∙​       ​What kept you from being as effective as you could have been? 
 We should’ve started by testing the component that had the problem. If we would’ve started 
by doing voltage drop to the window motor, we would’ve been able to diagnose the problem 
a lot faster.   
  
∙​       ​Now that you can look back on how this project unfolded, what would you like to do 
differently next time? 
 Everything went fairly smoothly. It would’ve been useful to know more details about the 
vehicle and we wouldn't have wasted so much time finding the vehicle. Other than that, we 
were able to methodically follow the diagnosis process to find the problem in a timely 
manner. 

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Auto131JeepCherokee.

  • 1. Auto 131 Lab Experience Report  Part 1: Vehicle Information     Student name(s):  TJ Mathews  Eddy Torres    Vehicle year, make, model:   1994 Jeep Cherokee       Customer’s name & repair order number:  Austin Laibly 9897     Customer’s concern(s):  Driver side window door is not working, but the switch moves the rest of the windows. Radio  doesnt turn on.     Part 2:  Documentation   Document the steps you took to diagnose and repair the vehicle—in the order that you did  them.  Write every step—even if you made mistakes and now wish you would have done it  differently.  Begin when you picked up the keys, end when you returned them.  BE  DETAILED & INCLUDE PHOTOGRAPHS!    After we picked up the keys from the office                  It took us awhile to find the vehicle                because the secretary was not very            specific on where the car was parked. All                she said was that it was parked              somewhere on center street and didn't            give us the color or licence plate. We                found a total of 4 vehicles of the same                  make and year parked in different spots              on center street. Two of them had the                service tag from the automotive department and our key unlocked both cars. Luckily we                            were able to locate the right one and our keys only started the engine of one of the cars. As                                        soon as we found the right vehicle, we verified that the driver side window and the radio                                  were not working. Then we brought the car In the shop, opened the hood, and performed a                                  visual inspection. Since everything seemed to be normal in the inspection, we searched for                            possible Technical Service Bulletins but nothing relevant to our repair was found. We                          decided to look and study the wiring diagram for the driver side circuit and started narrowing                               
  • 2. down the problem by isolating each            component and verifying that they          were working properly. We started          by measuring the state of charge of              the battery with our multimeter and            measured 12.5 V. Since we had            good voltage in the battery, we could              move on to the next component in              the circuit and continue narrowing          down the problem. We went back to              the wiring diagram and found out            that there’s only two cables that connect the window motor to the switch. These cables can                                switch between power and ground depending on whether the switch is pressed for the                            window to go up or down. Knowing this, we decided to use a test light to see if all the                                        components were getting power and ground to energize the circuit.   We managed to locate where the switch was and began to remove the door panel. Once all                                  the cables were visible, we reconnected the master switch to start the testing. Since the                              battery was closer to the passenger side of the car, we had to use jumper cables connected                                  to each other to reach the driver’s door. The                  wiring diagram showed that there was a light                blue and a white cable that connected power                and ground from the switch to the motor. We                  decided to start there since it was easy to                  access and it was right in the outer terminals of                    the switch. After we back probed the terminal,                when we pressed the switch to go up the test                    light turned on. Then we connected the jumper                cables to the ground side of the circuit and ran                    the same test but this time when pressing the                  window down, the test light turned on, proving                that we had power and ground coming from the                  battery to the window switch. These results              were very exciting because it meant that until                that point of the circuit we had continuity, good                  power and good ground. So every component going to the battery including the switch had                             
  • 3. current flowing. The only components left were the                window motor, and the two cables connected to it.                  To keep narrowing down the problem, we back                probed the cables all the way to the window motor                    and found that the test light turned on when the                    window was going up and down, meaning that our                  power and ground to that point was good. We had                    narrowed the problem down to the point where we                  knew that the only component that was not working                  was the window motor. We decided to do a voltage                    drop in the window motor just to make sure we                    were getting enough voltage to move the motor.                Our measurement was 12.15 V. Since the voltage                drop showed that there was good voltage going                into the motor, but the motor was not moving, a continuity test was performed in the motor                                  with the multimeter in the ohm setting. We turned on the beeping mode, and as soon as we                                    connected it to the motor it started beeping, confirming that there was continuity in the                              component.   Once we were confident that we found the root of the                      problem, we went to omnique to search for a                  compatible part, and after getting approval from the                customer the part was ordered. Once the part arrived,                  we found that the part we received from NAPA did not                      have the right gears on the motor. We looked to see if                        the other motors listed had the right gears but we                    decided that we could just take the lock ring off of the                        old motor and remove the gears and then switch the                    gears with the new motor. We were not very sure if it                        would actually work but to our amazement it was a                    perfect fit.     We went ahead and moved to the next complaint which was the radio not working. A printed                                  a wiring diagram was located, and we studied it for a moment. Then we decided to take the                                    radio apart and back probe each one of the components to narrow down the search just like                                  we did to the window motor. This time, instead of using the testlight, we decided to use the                                   
  • 4. voltmeter because we not only wanted to know if we had                      power going through the system, but we wanted to know                    exactly how much voltage we were getting in each                  cable. We tested the power and ground coming from the                    battery to the radio module and measured 12.5 V. then                    with the keys in the run position and we connected our                      leads to the ground and to the power cables of the                      ignition switch and found no voltage, meaning that there                  was an open circuit somewhere. We followed the                ignition cable to the actual fuse box and found that the                      15 amps fuse for the radio ignition was blown, which is                      why we thought about using a breaker switch instead of                    putting a new one, to try to find why it blew in the first                            place. After speaking with Brother Schmalle, we went                ahead and connected our leads to the positive side of the battery and with our test light                                  touched the positive side of the terminal where the fuse was connected and negative side of                                the circuit where the fuse was blown and our test light turned on, letting us know that there                                    was no short to ground in the positive side. Afterwards we decided to connect a fuse breaker                                  to try to double check if the fuse would blow, but the radio worked just fine. We tried using it                                        with the car turned on, tried increasing the volume,                  moving the wires, and nothing tripped the circuit                breaker, confirming us that there was no short circuit.                  Then we went ahead and went to the tool room and                      billed a new 15 amp fuse for that vehicle and                    proceeded to install it. The repair was verified, and the                    fuse was never blown again. We went ahead and                  installed everything back together, but we couldn't find                one of the clips for the door handle to open the door.                        we didn’t think that it would matter much, because that                    clip was just holding the rod to open or close the door,                        so we decided to go put it back in together without it,                        but when we tried to use the handle, it wouldn't lock or                        open the door. We had to go back and disassemble the                      door again, find the missing door clip, install it correctly and reassemble the door back again.                                Before calling the customer, we verified both the complaints, showed it to our instructor,                           
  • 5. cleared all the errors in omnique, printed off the repair order onto pink paper for the office                                  and Brother Schmalle. We finished by parking the car on center street as well as turning the                                  keys and the paper into the automotive office. After this we called the customer and told                                them their car was ready for pickup.      ​Part 3:  Reflection & Analysis  ∙​       ​What parts of this process went well?   The parts of the process that went well we thought were we followed the diagnostic  procedures. We also felt like we were able to focus on one of the problems before we moved  onto the next problem.      ∙​       ​Which steps were most critical in your diagnosis process?   Studying the wiring diagram and knowing how the circuit works before we performed all the  tests was one of the most important steps to diagnose this vehicle. Because we decided to  spend a little bit more time understanding the wiring diagrams, it was easier for us to  determine which test to perform to find the problem.      ∙​       ​What kept you from being as effective as you could have been?   We should’ve started by testing the component that had the problem. If we would’ve started  by doing voltage drop to the window motor, we would’ve been able to diagnose the problem  a lot faster.       ∙​       ​Now that you can look back on how this project unfolded, what would you like to do  differently next time?   Everything went fairly smoothly. It would’ve been useful to know more details about the  vehicle and we wouldn't have wasted so much time finding the vehicle. Other than that, we  were able to methodically follow the diagnosis process to find the problem in a timely  manner.