School Gardening Guide - Transplanting Resource for the School Garden ~ Massachusetts |=> When transplanting seedlings to a new pot or to the garden it is essential to consider the needs of the plant in terms of the root. The following overview of roots will help guide you and assure the success of your seeding and transplanting experiences. ` For more information, Please see websites below: ` Organic Edible Schoolyards & Gardening with Children http://scribd.com/doc/239851214 ` Double your School Garden Food Production with Organic Tech http://scribd.com/doc/239851079 ` Free School Gardening Art Posters http://scribd.com/doc/239851159` ` Companion Planting Increases School Garden Food Production by 250 Percent http://scribd.com/doc/239851159 ` Healthy Foods Dramatically Improves Student Academic Success http://scribd.com/doc/239851348 ` City Chickens for your Organic Garden http://scribd.com/doc/239850440 ` Simple Square Foot Gardening for Schools - Teacher Guide http://scribd.com/doc/239851110

1. Transplanting Resource for the School Garden
Healthy Roots are essential to the growth and development of the seed, a young seedling and the mature
plants. When transplanting seedlings to a new pot or to the garden it is essential to consider the needs of
the plant in terms of the root. Root hairs are easily torn off or may dry out in the sun. When the root hairs
are broken the plant will have difficulty meeting its water needs and will quickly dry out and die. The
following overview of roots will help guide you and assure the success of your seeding and transplanting
experiences.
Roots: An Overview
Roots play an essential role in the growth and vigor of a plant. They provide the anchor that keeps it from
blowing or washing away. The roots support the stem and the vascular tissues that are continuous throughout
the root to the stem. Roots absorb water and dissolved nutrients from the soil, transporting it through the
vascular system to the rest of the plant for photosynthesis and transpiration. Roots also store sugars and
carbohydrates that are used by the plant to survive winter and carry out other functions. Some roots can
produce new plants.
When a seed germinates, the first structure to appear is a young root, the radicle. The radicle develops into
the primary root. It grows downward in response to gravity, anchors the seedling and begins to absorb water
and minerals. Depending on the type of plant, root development will proceed into a tap or fibrous
root system.
The taproot, which is characteristic of dicots, is an extension of the primary root
of the young seedling. It grows into a single dominant root reaching deep into the
soil to bring up water and nutrients. Smaller secondary roots support it. The Taproot
also expand in size and can become a storage site for sugars and starches.
In a fibrous root system the primary root is quickly
displaced by numerous fine roots that develop from the
base of the stem, with no single root dominating. Fibrous
roots spread out to form a network of branching rootlets
located close to the surface. Fibrous roots are more common than taproots
and particularly good at holding soil.
Once the plant is established, additional roots, called adventitious roots,
may emerge from the stem. They help plants cling to surfaces and also
search out nutrients. These roots attach climbing vines and support corn
stalks, keeping them from being blown over by wind. Some tropical plants
that grow on trees have spongy roots that are exposed to air. They absorb
moisture and may contain chlorophyll. Some swamp-growing plants, such
as mangroves develop breathing-roots that grow upwards into the air.
Propagation of plants by cuttings relies on adventitious roots.
Many roots are further specialized to store sugars and carbohydrates. This
helps them to survive the winter and have food available for the developing shoots in spring. Taproots, such
as carrot and parsnip elongate to store food. Adventitious roots known as tuberous roots also serve as storage
organs, as in the sweet potato.

2. Root Structure
Internally, there are three root zones. At the tip is the meristem, an area of rapid mitotic cell division that
manufactures new cells for root growth. Behind the meristem is the zone of elongation. Cells absorb food
and water to increase in size and elongate. As they grow, the root lengthens and is pushed downward. The
zone of differentiation contains mature, specialized cells, such as epidermis, cortex or vascular tissue.
The epidermis is the outermost layer of cells surrounding the root, responsible for the absorption of water
and minerals dissolved in water. Cortex cells are involved in the movement of water from the epidermis and
in food storage. Vascular tissues conduct food and water through the xylem and phloem.
Externally, there are two areas of importance: the root cap
and the root hairs. The root cap is a mass of actively dividing
cells at the root’s outermost tip. It protects the root tip or
meristem (growing point) during its passage through the soil.
Its flattened and hardened cells are constantly sloughed off
and replaced by fresh cells as they force their way through
the soil. Cells formed just behind the tip lengthen rapidly and
push the tip further into the soil with considerable force. The
root cap is able to guide the root growth direction by sensing
gravity. Dead root cap cells are shed ahead of the root tip,
making a pathway that allows the delicate root to work its
way through the soil. Old cap cells may also lubricate the tip
as it grows downward.
Root hairs are tiny, delicate, elongated epidermal cells that
occur in a small zone just behind the root’s growing tip.
Auxin, a plant growth hormone, concentrates in the root
hairs and causes these cells to divide and grow larger. They
penetrate the soil, increasing the root’s surface area and
absorbing water and nutrients. Each root hair is a single cell
and has only a brief existence. As the root pushes downward,
hairs in the growing region are sheared off and quickly replaced with new hairs.

3. Water and Oxygen
In typical soil, water is available to plants mostly as a thin film surrounding each microscopic soil particle.
Root hairs absorb this water through osmosis when they grow into the vicinity of the soil particle. The
liquid inside the root hairs is a rather strong solution of
sugars and mineral salts. In the soil, the water is a weak
solution of mineral salts. The outer skin of the root hairs
is a semipermeable membrane, that allows weak solutions
to pass through into strong ones. So long as the solution
inside the root hairs is stronger than outside, they will take
in water.
Molecule by molecule, water diffuses through the root
hair’s cell membrane. The absorbed liquid passes from cell
to cell to the center of the root. It is then carried up to the
above-ground parts of the plant through slender tubes called
xylem. The movement of fluids from the root hairs to the
xylem can occur through one of two conductive pathways.
Water may travel along cell walls through intercellular
spaces from the root surface to the core in a method known
as apoplast. The symplast route moves fluids through the
cells, via channels that connect their content.
Roots require a flow of oxygen into the soil and a flow of their respiration product (mostly carbon dioxide)
out of the soil. Compacted soils resist air flow, making it difficult for many plants to thrive. In water-logged
soils, the spaces that would normally hold air are filled with water.
Optimizing growth
Some roots have a naturally occurring symbiotic relationship with certain mycorrhizal fungi. The
association is beneficial to both organisms and improves the plant’s ability to absorb water and nutrients.
Symbiotic nitrogen fixation occurs in plants such as legumes that harbor nitrogen-fixing bacteria within
their tissues.
The depth and spread of roots will vary with the growth characteristics of the plant and the texture and
structure of the soil. As plants become established, the root system develops laterally and can extend far
beyond the spread of the branches. Roots will penetrate much deeper into a loose, well-drained soil than a
heavy, poorly drained soil and may be restricted or stopped completely by a dense compacted soil layer.
When transplanting, the root hairs are easily torn off or may dry out in the sun. When the root hairs are
broken the plant will have difficulty meeting its water needs. It is essential to replant into soil as quickly
as possible. Then water well to keep the soil cool and allow root hairs to adhere to soil particles. It is also
recommended to keep the plants out of bright sunlight for several days after transplanting.

4. Thinning Seedlings
Thinning is the practice of removing surplus seedlings to prevent overcrowding. In this way, those
seedlings that are left will have enough room to grow and properly develop. This is especially important
when germination has been especially good and there is an excess of seedlings. If they are not thinned, the
seedlings will be shaded and become come weak and spindly. You will want to thin seedlings in the garden
as well as those planted indoors in flats or pots.
Thin the seedlings when they are about an inch tall and still in the cotyledon stage. This is before the first
true leaves have emerged. Thinning of these young seedlings will reduce transplant wilting. You should
also water the seed flat or pots well at least a half hour before thinning. Press the soil around the seedlings
you plan to keep as you are pulling out the excess seedlings.
This will reduce stress and soil disturbance. (Tip: cutting off
surplus seedlings with a sharp scissor will also help reduce stress
and wilting.)
When thinning you will want to keep the stronger, sturdier
seedlings whenever possible. Also try to thin to maintain and
even spacing. When thinning in pots you will want to leave
enough space so that each seedling is protected from shading and
has enough space to grow. If thinning in the garden, follow the
spacing recommendations on the seed packet for final placement.
Note: You can use the thinned out seedlings of some
vegetables by adding them to a salad. You may also want to try
transplanting the seedlings that you are removing, especially if there are gaps in the garden If you decide to
try transplanting them, have filled pots with moist soils ready before you start or pre dig the garden holes.
Transplant immediately into soil and water well. Remove pots to an area with indirect light for a few days to
reduce stress. Cover seedlings in the garden with light weight material
Transplanting Seedlings Up Into Individual Pots
Seedlings that were sown in groups in trays or pots need to be transplanted into larger containers before
they become overcrowded. This allows the seedlings to continue to grow and develop properly until they
are ready to be planted out in the garden. They will soon become spindly and weak if left too long, due to
competition for space and light. Transplant the seedlings to a larger individual containers, as soon as they
form their first true leaves and before they have become crowded in the flat or seed pot.
Use small individual containers or seed packs with compartmentalized sections. This allows the seedling
to form a good root ball before setting it out into the garden. Plants that
have been grown in individual pots will suffer less shock when they are
planted in the garden, while those grown grouped in flats or pots will have
to recover from the disturbance to their roots.
Before your start transplanting, prepare by watering the seedlings well at
least a half hour before you plan to transplant. Fill the new containers
with a soil less potting media. Gently firm the soil to eliminate air pockets.
Do not compact the soil. Use a pencil or dibble to make holes in the center
of each pot in preparation for the seedlings. (Make sure the hole is deep
enough so that, when planted, the roots will be straight and not crooked.)

5. Knock the container of seedlings against a table top or bench
to loosen the soil mix slightly. Loosen each plant with a
knife, pencil or other small implement. Carefully lift each
seedling from the soil, retaining some of the moist soil mix
around the roots to ensure that the seedlings will quickly
recover when transplanted. Hold the seedling gently by the
small seed leaves to avoid bruising the foliage, stems and
growing tips. Take special care not to damage the roots.
Make sure to keep that the hole is deep enough so the root
will be straight and not kinked. Cover all the roots with soil
mix, then gently firm in each seedling using fingers, and
level the soil mix. Water well. Set transplanted seedlings in
indirect light for a few days to prevent wilting. Be vigilant with watering.
Hardening Off Seedlings Before Planting Out
Annuals and tender perennials that have been raised indoors under lights, by a window or in a greenhouse
need to be acclimatized gradually to the outdoor conditions before being planted out in the garden. In this
way they become less dependent on the protected environment indoors and adjust to the lower temperatures
and stress from winds. They will be better adapted to the changes in environmental conditions that might
cause damage if they are suddenly introduced to the outdoors.
Hardening off involves a slowing of growth and a toughening of the plant tissues. It also results in a net
accumulation of carbohydrates, some of which the plants turn into red pigments called anthocyanins, causing
the stems and leaf veins in some species to turn pink or purple.
The hardening-off process takes about two weeks for herbaceous plants. Gradually expose the seedlings
to the outdoor environment. Take them outside during warm days, gradually increasing the length of time
outside. When nighttime temperatures are expected to be only a degree or so above freezing, move the
plants outdoors overnight to a protected location against a wall and cover them with an old blanket. Once
they have been left outdoors overnight in a protected location for a week, they can be planted to the garden.
When you begin the hardening off process, protect plants from the intense direct sun of midday by placing
them in the shade. But gradually work up to providing them with full sunlight over the course of a week or
more, depending on the type of plant.
During the hardening period, decrease watering to provide only enough to prevent wilting. This reduction
in water forces a plant to thicken the waxy cuticle layer of its leaves and stems, which gives it some
protection from drought and wind.
Fertilize minimally or not at all during hardening. This will force the plants to decrease vegetative growth,
making the stems woodier and the plants stockier.
Hardening Off in a Cold Frame: If a cold frame is available, move the plants out into it in sequence,
starting with the most frost-resistant. You can use old blankets over the cold frames at night if necessary to
provide additional insulation. Acclimatize the plants in the frame by leaving the sashes open for increasingly
longer periods once the danger of hard frost has passed. When cold water is forecast, the frames or
greenhouse must be shut earlier than on a night when the minimum expected temperature is not close to
freezing.

6. Plants purchased from a garden center may not have been hardened off, especially if they were bought from
inside the greenhouse. Harden them off before you plant them out.
Transplanting Into the Garden
Once the danger of frost has passed it is time to move the young plants to the garden. Be sure that you have
hardened off the plants before moving them to the garden.
Water the young plants thoroughly before transplanting and then allow them to drain for about an hour. It’s
best to transplant in the afternoon or on a cloudy day to decrease stress on the transplants.
Prepare the garden bed by cultivating the soil, adding organic material and fertilizer, raking smooth and
then gently firming the soil. Determine the spacing of the transplant by reading the seed packet. You can
also research the spacing for the annual or vegetable that you will be planting. You will want to space the
plants so that the leaves of the mature plants will just touch. Normal planting distance range from 6 to 18
inches, depending on the habit of the species or cultivar being grown.
You may choose to pre-dig all the planting holes or dig each hole individually just before you transplant
each. If you are working with a large group of students in the garden, pre digging the holes can help you
to keep spacing even. Make each planting hole large enough to take the root ball of the plant that you are
transplanting.
To remove the plant from its pot, invert it supporting the stem with a finger on either side. Then tap the rim
against a hard surface to loosen the root ball from the pot. Break apart cell packs or divided trays to remove
each seedling individually with its root ball undisturbed.
When you unpot a transplant, you may find that the roots are tightly twisted into a firm root-ball. If so,
gently break the ball apart or make several light scorching cuts along the surface of the ball before planting.
This breaks encircling roots mechanically and promotes formation of lateral roots and rapid development of
greater surface area. It also breaks some of the root tips, stimulating lateral branching of the remaining roots
and increasing root-surface area, making for a more robust plant. Exceptions to this are cucurbits and other
species with poor root regeneration. Disturb their
roots as little as possible when transplanting.
Firm the ground around the transplant to ensure
good root contact.
Take special care when
transplanting to avoid
creating a “J-rooted”
position of the seedlings.
This happens when a long
root system is jammed into
a hole too shallow to accommodate it and the bottom
part of the root system is bent into the shape of the
letter J. J-rooted plants grow poorly and often never
overcome the poor handing they received early in
life. Clip the bottom of very long roots or dig deeper
holes to make planting easier.

7. Note: If plants are in trays without divisions, hold the tray firmly with both hands, and tap one side sharply
on the ground to loosen the soil mix. Gently slide out the contents in one piece. Separate plants carefully
with your fingers, keeping as much soil as possible around the roots. Alternatively, remove each plant gently
using a small tool such as a pencil or screw driver.
Set plant outdoors as the same depth as they were planted in the pit. After transplanting, firm the soil around
the base of the stem. Gently break up the soil surface between the plants with a hand fork. To settle plants in
water the soil around the plant throughly.
Caring for New Transplants
The new garden plants will need special care for the first few weeks to ensure that their root systems become
well established. This includes shading, watering, frost protection, and fertilizing.
Shading: Consider providing shade protection for newly transplanted seedlings with a tent of fabric or
newspaper for the first few days, if the weather is particularly warm.
Watering: Estimate the amount of water to apply by checking soil moisture measurements or setting a pan
of water outside and measuring how much evaporates. If the weather turns hot, use sprinklers in the early
morning to cool the soil and plant surfaces while new transplants are still succulent.
Fertilizing: The fertilizer that you added to the soil at the time of bed preparation will support growth and
development. If you see leaves beginning to turn yellow, you a liquid fertilizer to supplement. Don’t let it
turn completely yellow or allow it to show any amount of yellowing for any length of time. Use a 20-20-20
or another complete nitrogen equivalent fertilizer and apply this at a weekly or biweekly intervals during
regular waterings.
Frost Protection: If frost is predicted after you’ve transplanted tender young plants, cover the beds with old
sheets or blankets at night until the frost threats are is passed. Be sure to remove the coverings during the
day, when the sun is out. Row-cover material can be applied and remain on garden during the early spring.
It allows light through to the plants, while also holding any heat in the soil that has been accumulated during
the day.

8. Resources
Massachusetts Agriculture in the Classroom Newsletter on Roots
http://aginclassroom.org/Newsletter/spring2010.html
A Handful of Seeds: Seed Saving and Seed Study for Educators
Lessons linked to California Educational Standards Practical Information on Seed Saving for School
Gardens History and Lore. On the web at: www.oaec.org/school-garden/handful-of- ?seeds
The Beginner’s Guide to Growing Heirloom Vegetables by Marie Iannotti (Timber Press) 2011.
The Complete Guide to Saving Seeds by Robert Gough and Cheryl Moore-Gough (Storey
Publications) 2011.
The American Horticultural Society Encyclopedia of Gardening: The Definitive Guide to
Gardening Techniques, Planning and Maintenance edited by Christopher Brickell, Dorling
Kindersley, 1993.
P. O. Box 345 Seekonk, MA 02771
www.aginclassroom.org
Please Visit the Massachusetts Agriculture in the Classroom Website
to tell us how you used this Transplanting Resource for the School Garden.
This Transplanting Resource for the School Garden was funded by
the Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources through a
2011 Specialty Crops Grant from the USDA