1. Kwa-mai: The Khami Ruins
Located just kilometres out of Bulawayo city lies a place of historical interest. The Khami
was founded in the fifteenth century being the third stone empire, after the South African
Mapungubwe Empire and the Great Zimbabwe Empire. The Khami was founded by Great
Zimbabwe break-away immigrants. The immigrants are the group of people that is today
recognised as the Torwa. The name “Khami” comes from a Kalanga variant of the phrase
“Kwamai”, meaning “mother’s place”. A simple translation of the name Khami is “home”.
The Khami was abandoned in the eighteenth century, presumably in retreat from the
increasing number of white people. After the decline of the Khami, the Torwa migrated to
form the Dlodlo state, which is located in presence in present day Gweru.
Although identical to the great Zimbabwe ruins at face value, the Khami ruins differ in that
the Khami walls are freestanding, the pattern is only seen from the outside. This difference in
building structure can be seen as a way of the Torwa breaking all ties with the state of Great
Zimbabwe in terms of architecture. The Khami Walls are built in five different patterns.
These patterns are; Herringbone, Banded, Checkered, Chevron and Checkered-And-Banded.
These rare patterns have led to controversy over who actually built the walls. The argument is
based on the fact that the pattern building skill has never been discovered since. Scholars
argue that if the local black people had actually built the walls, they could have easily built
more walls resembling those in the Khami, but it appears the skill just disappeared. Historians
counter this argument with a very simple explanation. With the Khami declining just a few
years before colonisation, the local people lost the skill as they tried to retreat from the
whites. They had neither the time nor social stability to pass down the skill to younger
generations.
The walls were built not just for all members of society, but for the elite of the society; chiefs,
king’s advisors and the royal family. The king’s hut was the highest point of the walls so that
he could keep a watchful eye over his population, which ranged from eight to ten thousand
people. The king could, from his pinnacle watch and control all activities which were mainly
farming and pottery.
An interesting site at the ruins is the Cross Ruin. It has been told throughout history that
supernatural powers surround the cross. The cross has been said to provide good luck and
2. good omens. As a result, people, usually foreigners and tourists leave coins at the cross site,
in the hope that the ancestors will bless them, and provide them with good luck.
Left:the cross ruin endowed with coins.
Right:the Royal toilet.
Another site to behold at the ruins is the royal toilet. This was a reserved area of convenience,
exclusive to the royal women and girls. The men and common women used the bush as an
area of relieving themselves. The toilet is a pit latrine, going down a few metres, when not in
use, it is covered using two flat stones.
In spite of its beauty and rare history, the Khami seems to be in a state of dilapidation. The
Khami River for example was decommissioned in 1970. As a result, it is no longer permitted
to pump water for public consumption. Furthermore, the walls need constant repairing under
the UNESCO. The walls are repaired annually by different people in a bid to save the Khami
as a World Heritage site. This has however been met with criticism as critics argue that the
act of repairing the ruins strips them of their natural beauty.