Caroline Gladstone writes about her trip to the Cinque Terre. Illawarra Mercury.

1. Cinque Terre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, where the towns and walkways have been carved out of the rock over generations.
Cinque Terre is a most CLUSTERS OF PASTEL STONE on the precipitous hills point for a pair of lovers from the the farmers who toiled to build the
houses cling to the sides of a deep surrounding the five towns. two towns, something akin to the terraces, which are visible high
unusual corner of Italy, ravine. Cultivated with grapevines, Romeo and Juliet tale without the above the town.
writes CAROLINE A restaurant teeters on a rocky olives and lemon groves, the tragic ending. A tunnel links the lower town
promontory and a track winds terraces stretch as far as the eye Depending on where you start with the harbour and fishing boat
GLADSTONE. round a sheer rock face that can see and are criss-crossed with your trek, Via dell’Amore is the ramp, while the nifty elevator
plunges straight into the ocean. walking trails. first or last section of the much whisks you to the 13th century
This dramatic scene greets me The narrow tracks were once trodden track, the 9km Il Sentiero church of San Giovanni Battista (St
when I step off the train at the only means of communication Azzurro or Blue Trail. John the Baptist).
Riomaggiore. From the platform, I for Cinque Terre inhabitants cut It can be completed in five Above the church a narrow trail
look over the Ligurian Sea and the off from the rest of the world until hours, but walkers tend to do a leads to the restored 16th century
waves lashing the vertical cliffs. the arrival of the railway in the section, stop for lunch and castle and some amazing views of
This is Cinque Terre, the Five early 20th century. The isolation sightseeing, while most tackle it the coastline and terraces.
Lands; a majestic pocket of rugged helped preserve the traditional over a few leisurely days and hop ■ The writer was a guest of the
coastline on the Italian Riviera. Ligurian way of life. on the trains when they’ve had Italian Government Tourist Office.
Trip tips But while ‘‘Riviera’’ conjures up
images of glitz and glamour,
Farmers continue to plant and
harvest, but instead of trudging up
enough of the tough hills.
A Cinque Terre Card, on sale at
■ Singapore Airlines, Emirates Cinque Terre is almost homely by the steep hills, they whizz around visitor information centres in each
and Etihad fly to Milan. comparison to its chic French in electric carts on a steel runner town, is needed to access the trails
■ Trains depart Milan Central counterpart. much like a one-man and to ride the environmentally-
station for Cinque Terre. The Instead of flashy yachts in the rollercoaster. More ingenuity. friendly green buses that connect
journey is about three hours. harbour, fisherman ‘‘park’’ their Tourists discovered the region the towns via an elevated roadway.
Rail Europe has fares and rail colourful boats in the heart of in the 1960s and today they sit in Each Cinque Terre town has its
passes. Visit: town and washing lines, billowing cafes, wedged between the fishing particular charms. Monterossa is
www.raileurope.com.au with white sheets, flutter over boats, sipping on the local white divided into two parts. The ‘‘new
■ Accommodation: CIT World diners at sidewalk cafes. wine studying their walking trail town’’, accessed directly from the
Travel Services has apartments I am staying in an apartment in maps. railway station, is the most
and hotels in Monterossa, the upper level of Riomaggiore For all its alluring charm and touristy place in Cinque Terre and
Manorola and Riomaggiore. A and I need to take an elevator to sweet little villages bathed in has its best beaches.
one-bedroom apartment get there. pastel patina, Cinque Terre The old medieval quarter,
(sleeping three) costs around Barbara, an Italian-born bounds with activity - and hoards linked to the new town via a
$2190 per week. Visit: Australian colleague, of keen hikers. tunnel, is a maze of winding
www.cittravel.com.au. recommended the town; her Those old walking tracks that laneways, old churches and the
■ Tempo Holidays has a seven- father was born here and each link the five towns - Monterosso, Torre Aurora (tower) sitting on a
day self guided walking tour year she spends six weeks Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and rocky outcrop.
including accommodation, holidaying in the family home. Riomaggiore - are the drawcard. It is also the flattest town;
breakfasts, Cinque Terre Park I present my Cinque Terre Card Fortunately, for the more sedate however the 3km trail that leads
Ticket (train & ferry), from $1270 to the elevator driver and ascend visitor, the most famous of the over the hill to Vernazza is a calf-
per person twin-share. It also through what was once solid rock trails is an easy amble along a flat burning two-hour trek with plenty
has accommodation. Visit: to a level footpath some 30 path taking just 30 minutes. And of steps along the way. Vernazza is
www.tempoholidays.com. seconds later. Ingenious. more fortuitously, this path known the most picturesque of the group,
■ More information: Italian Cinque Terre is a UNESCO as Via dell’Amore or Lover’s Way, is and is a stunning sight when seen
Government Tourist Office. Visit: World Heritage site, an accolade spectacularly beautiful. from the lofty walking trail.
www.italiantourism.com.au. earned for its natural beauty and Perched high above the ocean, Riomaggiore, my home, is quite
IMD W013
■ Cinque Terre region: the hard work of generations of it connects Riomaggiore to deceptive at first and takes a
www.parconazionale5terre.it. farmers who carved out Manarola, 1km away. Legend says couple of days to reveal all its The small streets of Cinque Terre
thousands of hectares of terraces it was the clandestine meeting mysteries. A large mural depicts boast many cafes.
Website: www.illawarramercury.com.au WEEKENDER Saturday, October 9, 2010 13