1. DENIM - SPRING SUMMER ‘13
MARCH 2012
DENIM DESIGN DIVISION - MATTHEW BRAUN

2. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC MARCH 2012
Pastels
Turn up
Coating/Staining
Raw/Rinse
Vibrant colours
Contrast stitch
Indigo dying Ecru/White Dead stock
Herringbone
SPRING SUMMER 2013
OVERVIEW

3. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC MARCH 2012
KEY TRENDS FOR DENIM
WHAT TO LOOK FOR !
WHITE/ECRU DENIM
SATURATED INDIGO DENIMS
NEW COATINGS
DEAD STOCK BLUES
TURN UPS
CONTRAST COLOUR THREADS
PASTEL COLOURS
THE ORGANIC LOOK
DENIM BLENDS
THE NEW JEAN?

4. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC IT’S ALL WHITE MARCH 2012
Ecru selvedge
Cone Denim Mills
Worn white
Indigo staining
Oatmeal weft
Heavy bleach
White non-denim
White/Ecru denim comes to the high street in force for Spring Summer 13. Create the look through heavy bleaching or using natural undyed fibres.
Plays on oatmeal wefts create great vintage looks
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5. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC EXTREME DIPPING MARCH 2012
Raw coated
Minimal scraping
Japan blues Authentic
Authentic whiskers
OD Denim
Saturated Indigo denims will carry through from Autumn into summer, being a key look across high end and high street.
Heavy washes are replaced by slight scraping and tamed whiskers. OD Denim is used to also create this high intensity of depth.
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6. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC THE SUMMER COAT MARCH 2012
Dry coatings
Crinkle
Colour coatings
Clean washing
New ideas
This summer coatings take a leap forward with experimental brands like NAKED & FAMOUS and ONE GREEN ELEPHANT. New colour coatings/sprays
are what to look for, giving a vintage look to coloured denims. Clear Resins on saturated indigos giving a more rigid raw look are proving to be important in the offering too.
LEVIS take this to the next level with their commuter jean, coated with a waterproof finish protecting you and your denims from the elements.
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7. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC DEAD STOCK BLUES MARCH 2012
Crinkle coated
New fit
Orange copper metal
Raw casts
Grey blues
New blues
Heritage
A trend which is becoming more and more evident as the need for anything heritage becomes increasingly popular is Dead stock blue casts of denim.
Fabrics are more greyed off, weights are heavy (13oz) and finishes are clean with raws and rinses.
Fabrics look great unmercerized for a textured look and fits are worn loose with ankle swinging turn ups. Return of the rockabilly.
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8. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC ‘ROLL UP’ - ‘ROLL UP’ MARCH 2012
New interior fabrics
Chambray interior
Heavy weight
Blanket lining
Twisted yarns
OD colouring
With washes becoming cleaner and coloured denims becoming increasingly popular. Interests on internals and coloured wefts are seen on the high street.
TED BAKER uses lightweight chambray and checks to internal hems, SCOTCH & SODA are using heavyweight vintage pinstripe twill
and premium brands like NAKED & FAMOUS use blanket lining to denims. Selvedges are becoming more evident with high street stores like
MARKS & SPENCER delving into this premium fabric construction. 8

9. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC NICE THREADS MARCH 2012
New colour ideas
Colour trims match
OD colour bleed
Hand done look
Sophisticated colour
Colour stories
Right, contrast thread colours are a sensitive point on denim as it can be sink or swim for a pair of denims if the wrong colours are used.
Contrast threads have been used badly in the past but this season key brands have used them in very effective ways. LEE has told a story with their four colours spread across
all branding (leathers/threads/metalwork). NUDIE has changed their back pocket stitch colour to a striking green apple for their organic denim collaboration between
New York store ATRIUM. 9

10. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC SWEET TOOTH MARCH 2012
Colour statement
Faded warms
New greens
Clean finish
Colour denims seem to be getting stronger and stronger on the high street with BURTONS, TOPMAN & TED BAKER storming in front with new and striking colourways.
However SS’13 sees the colours sway from earthy tones in the Autumn to faded blues and reds in the summer.
Team these striking colours with a simple plain top and the essential summer look is complete.
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11. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC THE ORGANIC LOOK MARCH 2012
Colour nepps
Wrangler
Cone Denim Mills
Twisted yarns
Dobby fabric
Colour with nepps
A big trend currently creeping through is the organic look, with the introduction of eco friendly product and waterless denims, organic seems so right,
this look has been achieved through neppy denims, coloured wefts, twisted yarns and dobby constructions.
CONE DENIM MILLS successfully previewed their collection at DENIM PV for S/S ‘13 showing their earthspun collection using recycled glass and plastic bags.
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12. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC DENIM BLEND MARCH 2012
New denim blends
Lightweights
Textural looks
Heavy Chambray Hemp blend
Subtle washing
Although normally tricky for our current consumer who relates Weight with quality, lightweight denim blends are being seen across most of the brands.
PAUL SMITH producing a 10oz denim linen blend jean, with the same treatment as a regular denim.
This trend will also play heavily on the organic look but just as a lighter weight option for our summer season.
These fabrications will also translate across chinos and shorts easily. Salt and peeper looks along with subtle nepps are great fabrics to look for. 12

13. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC THE NEW JEAN MARCH 2012
New colourways
Tobacco stitch
Heavy canvas
Denim canvas
Heavy calvary twill
Coloured yarns
Herringbone
With the current success of Chinos, denims have been hit hard, this is soon to change and with the use of new fabrications on jean blocks this will help as a transition.
Canvases seem to be very popular with RIVER ISLAND, TOPMAN & RALPH LAUREN showcasing these in their
current ranges. Team this with the beautiful available herringbones, seen in ARVIND, ISKO & KOHINOOR mills for a happy middle ground.
Finally the use of tobacco stitching and denim wash processes on striking bold colourways as seen above will really push the category into a new level. 13