We are a passionate team of people who regularly come up with many new fashion styles and make a mark of it in the style industry, we are a team of top 10 custom tailors in Hong Kong who have been working on suits and shirts since decades and have a lot in their back pack regarding suiting and shirting. Along with this we have a team of younger generation who has a nerve of creating modern and innovative cuts for that fine look.

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• In clothing, a suit is a set of garments made from the
same cloth, usually consisting of at least a jacket and
trousers. Lounge suits (also known as business
suits when sober in colour and style), which originated
in Britain as country wear, are the most common style
of Western suit. Other types of suit still worn today are
the dinner suit, part of black tie, which arose as a
lounging alternative to dress coats in much the same
way as the day lounge suit came to replace frock
coats and morning coats; and, rarely worn today,
the morning suit. This article discusses the lounge suit
(including business suits), elements of informal dress
code.

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• The variations in design, cut, and cloth, such as two-
and three- piece, or single- and double- breasted,
determine the social and work suitability of the
garment. Often, suits are worn, as is traditional, with
a collared shirt and necktie. Until around the 1960s, as
with all men's clothes, a hat would have been also
worn when the wearer was outdoors. Suits also come
with different numbers of pieces: a two-piece suit has a
jacket and the trousers; a three piece adds
a waistcoat (known as a vest in North America); further
pieces might include a flat capmade from the same
cloth.

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• Originally, as with most clothes, a tailor made
the suit from his client's selected cloth; these
are now often known as bespoke suits. The
suit was custom made to the measurements,
taste, and style of the man. Since
the Industrial Revolution, most suits are mass-
produced, and, as such, are sold as ready-to-
wear garments (though alteration by a tailor
prior to wearing is common). Currently, suits
are sold in roughly four ways:

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• bespoke, in which the garment is custom-made by a tailor
from a pattern created entirely from the customer's
measurements, giving the best fit and free choice of fabric;
• made to measure, in which a pre-made pattern is modified
to fit the customer, and a limited selection of options and
fabrics is available;
• ready-to-wear or off-the-peg (off-the-rack, in American
English), which is sold ready to be tailored or finally as is;
• suit separates where jacket and trousers are sold
separately, allowing a customer to choose the size that is
best for him and limit the amount of alterations needed.

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• The current styles were founded in the
industrial revolution during the late 18th
century that sharply changed the elaborately
embroidered and jewelled formal clothing into
the simpler clothing of the British
Regency period, which gradually evolved to
the stark formality of the Victorian era. It was
in the search for more comfort that the
loosening of rules gave rise in the late 19th
century to the modern lounge suit.

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• Brooks Brothers is generally credited with first
offering the "ready-to-wear" suit, a suit which
was sold already manufactured and sized,
ready to be tailored. It was Haggar Clothing
that first introduced the concept of suit
separates in the US, the concept of separately
sold jackets and trousers, which are widely
found in the marketplace today.

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• The word suit derives from
the French suite, meaning "following", from
some Late Latin derivative form of the Latin
verb sequor = "I follow", because the
component garments (jacket and trousers
and waistcoat) follow each other and have the
same cloth and colour and are worn together.

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• As a suit (in this sense) covers all or most of
the wearer's body, the term "suit" was
extended to a single garment that covers all or
most of the body, such
as boilersuits and diving
suits and spacesuits (see Suit
(disambiguation)).

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20. The cut
• A man dressed in a three-piece suit and bowler hat.
• The silhouette of a suit is its outline. Tailored balance
created from a canvas fitting allows a balanced silhouette
so a jacket need not be buttoned and a garment is not too
tight or too loose. A proper garment is shaped from the
neck to the chest and shoulders to drape without wrinkles
from tension. Shape is the essential part of tailoring that
often takes hand work from the start. The two main cuts
are 1) double-breasted suits, a conservative design with
two columns of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the
left and right sides; and 2) single-breasted suits, in which
the sides overlap very slightly, with a single column of
buttons.

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• Good tailoring anywhere in the world is
characterised by strongly tapered sides and
minimal shoulder, whereas often rack suits are
padded to reduce labour. More casual suits
are characterised by less construction and
tailoring, much like the sack suit is a loose
American style.

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• There are 3 ways to make suits:
• Ready made and altered "sizes" or precut shapes;
a convenience that often is expressed over time
with wrinkles from poor shaping, leading to
distortion;
• The made-to-measure suit that uses
measurements, not shaping, to achieve things
like style, lengths and horizontal measurements;
• The custom, bespoke or tailoring-designed suit
that has interim half-made fittings and is cut from
an actual personal pattern.

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• The acid test of authentic tailoring standards
is the wrinkle that comes from poor tailoring.
Rumples can be pressed out. For interim
fittings, "Rock Of Eye"drawing and cutting
inaccuracies are overcome by the fitting.

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28. Fabric
• Suits are made in a variety of fabrics, but most
commonly from wool. The two main yarns
produce worsteds (where the fibres
are combed before spinning to produce a
smooth, hard wearing cloth)
and woollens (where they are not, thus
remaining comparatively fluffy in texture).
These can be woven in a number of ways
producing flannel, tweed, gabardine, and
fresco among others.

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• These fabrics all have different weights and feel,
and some fabrics have an S number describing
the fineness of the fibres measured by average
fibre diameter, e.g., Super 120; however, the finer
the fabric, the more delicate and thus less likely
to be long-wearing it will be. Although wool has
traditionally been associated with warm, bulky
clothing meant for warding off cold weather,
advances in making finer and finer fibre have
made wool suits acceptable for warmer weather,
as fabrics have accordingly become lighter and
more supple.

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• Wool fabric is denominated by the weight of a
one-square yard piece; thus, the heavier wools,
suitable for winter only, are 12-14 oz.; the
medium, "three season" are 10-11 oz.; and
summer wools are 7-8 oz. (In the days before
central heating, heavier wools such as 16 oz.
were used in suits; now they are used mainly in
overcoats and topcoats.) Other materials are
used sometimes, either alone or blended with
wool, such as cashmere.

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• Silk alone or blended with wool is sometimes used.
Synthetic materials, while cheaper, e.g., polyester, are
very rarely recommended by experts. At most, a blend
of predominantly wool may be acceptable to obtain
the main benefit of synthetics, namely resistance to
wrinkling, particularly in garments used for travel;
however, any synthetic, blended or otherwise, will
always be warmer and clammier than wool alone. For
hot weather, linen is also used, and in North
America cotton seersucker is worn.
• http://www.hongkongmanhattantailor.com/Bespoke-
Suits.html

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• Unit E, Ground Floor, Mercantile House, 186
Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tusi, Kowloon, Hong
Kong. MTR Jordan Exit No D
• (852) 2302 0728 / (852) 9349 1442
• (852) 2302 0658
• info@hongkongmanhattantailor.com
• http://www.hongkongmanhattantailor.com/

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