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Snæfellsnes PeninsulaIceland August 2011
Landscape for many of the Sagas….
Snæfellsjökull – volcano and glacier Jules Verne set his novel Journey to the Centre of the Earth on Snæfellsjökull. He never visited Iceland.
Stykkishólmur – population 1,100
A fishing community on the Breiðafjörður
Norwegian House (with flag) –  oldest building in town
Norwegian House – built 1832 by merchant ÁrniÞorlacius In the 19th century, most Icelanders lived in turf houses, so Árni’s house – built of timber imported from Norway – was a luxury. Árni inherited trading rights granted to his father by Denmark, which strictly controlled  trade to Iceland. His business helped the town prosper.
Wool is historically one of Iceland’s key exports. Shops are still full of hand-knit sweaters.
Árni loved science and kept detailed daily weather reports starting in 1845, the first continuous weather observations in Iceland.
Eider duck down is used in duvets and pillows. The super soft down is collected by hand. Eider farmers physically lift the bird from its nest, collect some (not all) of the down around the eggs, add some grass to help insulate, and place the bird back. The ducks are completely docile. Sounds amazing, yes?
Vatnasafn (Library of Water) Designed by American Roni Horn. The space is filled with columns of water. English and Icelandic words that describe the weather cover the floor.  Used as a community center and hosts a writer’s residency program with private studios and public readings. (How can I sign up?!)
View from Vatnasafn
Modernist church
Car ferry across Breiðafjörður to the West Fjords
My favorite café – Narfeyrarstofa. Fantastic lamb stew and skyr desserts
Summer in Iceland – longest sunset of my life
Unloading the car ferry
Day hike to Helgafell Góðaferð – Good trip
Helgafell – “Holy Mountain”. The pagan Norse believed this was an entrance to Valhalla, home of the gods, and worshippers of Þór (Thor), god of thunder, made pilgrimages here.
The farm at Helgafell has existed since the Saga era and was home to Snorri the Goði
Snorri the Goði, once devoted to Þór, built a chapel on top of Helgafell when he converted to Christianity in the 10th century. These are the ruins of a 13th century chapel.
On top of Helgafell
Inside the chapel ruins
Helgafellfarm’s church. Every prominent Norse farm built and maintained a church. Note the earthen mounds in the graveyard.
GuðrúnÓsvifsdóttir’s grave – heroine of the Laxdæla Saga Guðrún switched farms with Snorri after a series of revenge killings soured things with her neighbors. Her grave from 1008 is at the base of Helgafell and locals say if you hike from her grave up to Helgafell’s chapel in complete silence, then make a secret wish while facing east, she will grant it.
Helgafell from Þórsnes
Þórsnes – site of the regional þing, or general assembly. Here Erik the Red was outlawed for a revenge killing, spurring him to explore Greenland.
Ferry to the West Fjords
Parting view of Stykkishólmur

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Snæfellsnes peninsula, Iceland

  • 2. Landscape for many of the Sagas….
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  • 4. Snæfellsjökull – volcano and glacier Jules Verne set his novel Journey to the Centre of the Earth on Snæfellsjökull. He never visited Iceland.
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  • 10. A fishing community on the Breiðafjörður
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  • 12. Norwegian House (with flag) – oldest building in town
  • 13. Norwegian House – built 1832 by merchant ÁrniÞorlacius In the 19th century, most Icelanders lived in turf houses, so Árni’s house – built of timber imported from Norway – was a luxury. Árni inherited trading rights granted to his father by Denmark, which strictly controlled trade to Iceland. His business helped the town prosper.
  • 14. Wool is historically one of Iceland’s key exports. Shops are still full of hand-knit sweaters.
  • 15. Árni loved science and kept detailed daily weather reports starting in 1845, the first continuous weather observations in Iceland.
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  • 17. Eider duck down is used in duvets and pillows. The super soft down is collected by hand. Eider farmers physically lift the bird from its nest, collect some (not all) of the down around the eggs, add some grass to help insulate, and place the bird back. The ducks are completely docile. Sounds amazing, yes?
  • 18. Vatnasafn (Library of Water) Designed by American Roni Horn. The space is filled with columns of water. English and Icelandic words that describe the weather cover the floor. Used as a community center and hosts a writer’s residency program with private studios and public readings. (How can I sign up?!)
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  • 26. Car ferry across Breiðafjörður to the West Fjords
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  • 28. My favorite café – Narfeyrarstofa. Fantastic lamb stew and skyr desserts
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  • 35. Summer in Iceland – longest sunset of my life
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  • 48. Day hike to Helgafell Góðaferð – Good trip
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  • 50. Helgafell – “Holy Mountain”. The pagan Norse believed this was an entrance to Valhalla, home of the gods, and worshippers of Þór (Thor), god of thunder, made pilgrimages here.
  • 51. The farm at Helgafell has existed since the Saga era and was home to Snorri the Goði
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  • 53. Snorri the Goði, once devoted to Þór, built a chapel on top of Helgafell when he converted to Christianity in the 10th century. These are the ruins of a 13th century chapel.
  • 54. On top of Helgafell
  • 56. Helgafellfarm’s church. Every prominent Norse farm built and maintained a church. Note the earthen mounds in the graveyard.
  • 57. GuðrúnÓsvifsdóttir’s grave – heroine of the Laxdæla Saga Guðrún switched farms with Snorri after a series of revenge killings soured things with her neighbors. Her grave from 1008 is at the base of Helgafell and locals say if you hike from her grave up to Helgafell’s chapel in complete silence, then make a secret wish while facing east, she will grant it.
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  • 62. Þórsnes – site of the regional þing, or general assembly. Here Erik the Red was outlawed for a revenge killing, spurring him to explore Greenland.
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  • 64. Ferry to the West Fjords
  • 65. Parting view of Stykkishólmur