First assignment on Identifying Influences

1. Fashion Influences from 80s-90s Josephine Yap Lisa

2. Events, Social Change and driving factors of change Western economy boom, women dress for success in the perfect suit for the corporate ladder (androgynous dressing) Soap operas like Dynasty and Dallas had a large influence Growth in designer and private labels in response to growing middle class’s affluence Youth fashion evolve mainly from music and streetwear: Start of MTV – pop music, London influences Michael Jackson popularises the leather jacket in his music video “Thriller” (1983) Young women started copying her “street urchin” look from Madonna “Like a virgin” single Dance wear (tail end of Disco era from 1970s) & hip hop wear (Def Jam Recordings artists such as LL Cool J and Public Enemy) (Sproles & Burns 1994) (Fashion Era)

3. Notable Designers of the 80s Calvin Klein Giorgio Armani Ralph Lauren Christian Lacroix Simple sportswear: successful advertising (Brooke Shields ‘Nothing comes between me and my Calvins’). Power suits: Dress celebrities to create buzz (Richard Gere in 1980’s American Gigolo) triangle-shaped, strong square shoulders, suits with skirts. Sportswear: All american dream, referencing upper class Ivy League or preppy look, polo shirt. Couture Revival (high fashion): French label, glamorous & dramatic, use of sumptuous fabrics (velvet, satin, taffeta) and overlapping patterns (patchwork, stripes), one of his signature pieces is the bouffant or puffy skirt (pouf) (Baudot Francois 1999,Vogue UK 2011, Notable Biographies 2011, NY Mag 2011)

4. Influences on fashion & styles Characteristics Hair Females: Multicoloured, side ponytails, crimp, glitter, ultra-teased, platinum blonde Males: Long & layered, frizzy or curly, mohawks Clothing Oversized clothing or work suit: shoulder pads/ broad shoulders, skirts knee length Youth street wear: ‘Fashion Rebellion’, Neon colours, strong prints, tie-dye, acid wash tight and ripped jeans Sports and workout clothing: Exercise gear & leg warmers, torn or off-the-shoulder t-shirts, parachute pants Where did it come from? Power dressing: Margaret Thatcher, Princess Diana Youth wear: Pop music: Cyndi Lauper, Madonna, Billy Idol, Duran2, Culture Club, Olivia Newton John with Let’s Get Physical, Prince and Michael Jackson. Street dancing: Break-dancing Movies: Fame, Flashdance, Dallas, Dynasty (BuxbaumGerda 1999, Hill Daniel Delis 2007, The people history 2004, Fashion Era/1980s Lifestyle & Fashion, 2001)

5. Soap Opera Dynasty Ralph Lauren 1983 Christian Lacroix

6. Giorgio Armani A/W 1984-85 Christian Lacroix S/S1988 Ralph Lauren

8. Bibliography Changing Appearances – Understanding Dress in Contemporary Society, Sproles & Burns 1994. Ralph Lauren image of father & sons from: pg 294 BAUDOT Francois, A Century of Fashion, Thames & Hudson Ltd, London and Universe Publishing, New York 1999 Giorgio Armani Donna Advertising campaign Dress for success image pg 125 BUXBAUM Gerda (ed), Icons of Fashion – The 20th Century, PrestelVerlag, Munich, London, New York 1999. Christian Lacroix, PacoRabanne & Vivienne Westwood images pg 131 BUXBAUM Gerda (ed), Icons of Fashion – The 20th Century, PrestelVerlag, Munich, London, New York 1999. Giorgio Armani black and white pictures pg 127 HILL Daniel Delis, As seen in Vogue – A Century of American Fashion in Advertising, Texas Tech University Press, 2007 Fitness wear Leotards pg 121 HILL Daniel Delis, As seen in Vogue – A Century of American Fashion in Advertising, Texas Tech University Press, 2007 Day wear 1982-84 pg 205 PEACOCK John, Fashion since 1900 The Complete Sourcebook 1250 Colour illustrations, Thames & Hudson Ltd, London 2007. Day wear 1987-90 pg 213 PEACOCK John, Fashion since 1900 The Complete Sourcebook 1250 Colour illustrations, Thames & Hudson Ltd, London 2007. www.vogue.co.uk viewed on 26 July 2011 www.nymag.com viewed on 26 July 2011 www.notablebiographies.com viewed on 26 July 2011 www.thepeoplehistory.com viewed on 26 July 2011 www.fashion-era.com viewed on 26 July 2011