A new sensation has emerged in the industry of fashion and luxury and the opinions are split between excitement and scepticism. See Now Buy Now is the "Pretail" model where what's on the runway is immediately made available in stores - closing the gap between the catwalk and retail. Burberry's CEO Christopher Bailey argues in favour of the concept by saying that “The changes we are making will allow us to build a closer connection between the experience that we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collections for themselves.” While brands like Burberry, Tommy Hilfiger and Tom Ford have already vowed to this new approach from the next collection onwards, more traditional luxury labels, mainly Italian and French houses are rather reluctant. https://fashionbi.com/insights/marketing-research/see-now-buy-now

1. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
See Now Buy Now
How Is The Industry Adapting To Fashion's Newest Movement?
June 2016

2. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Index
1. Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….…….
1.1. How Digital Has Changed Fashion.…………………………………………………………………………......
1.2. Transformation Of Fashion Show.…………………………………………………………………..…..…........
1.3. Becoming Digital Era...………………………………………………………………………………...……........
1.4. Traditional Supply Chain..…………………………………………………………………………...……….....
1.5. See Now Buy Now Supply Chain..………………………………………………………………………….….
1.6. So What Is The Point Of See Now Buy Now?..……………………………………………………………....
1.7. Types Of “Buy Now”.………………………………………………………………………………..……….......
1.8. How Are Brands Adjusting To Digitally Evolved Customers……………………………………….....……...
2. Which brands Are Applying See Now Buy Now………………………………………………………………….……....
2.1. Brands Who Are Applying See Now Buy Now…………………………………………………………….….
2.1.1. Rebecca Minkoff………………………………………………………………….……….………....
2.1.2. Burberry………………………………………………………………….……….……….…………..
2.1.3. Alice + Olivia………………………………………………………………….……….……………...
2.1.4. Matthew Williamson………………………………………………………………….………………
2.1.5. Misha Nonoo………………………………………………………………….……….……………...
2.1.6. Tom Ford………………………………………………………………………………………………
2.1.7. Tommy Hilfiger………………………………………………………………………………………..
2.1.8. Madewell……………………………………………………………………………………………....
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3. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
2.2 Brands Who Changed The Schedule Of The Fashion Shows………………………………........
2.2.1. Vetements…………………………………………………………..………………………………...
2.2.2. Public School…………………………………………………..……………………………………..
2.2.3. Hunter……………………………………………………………………………………………........
2.2.4. Alexander Wang……………………………………………..……………………………………….
2.3 Brands Who Create Special Looks Or Products For See Now Buy Now…………………….......
2.3.1. Prada…………………………………………………………..……………………………………...
2.3.2. Diane Von Furstenberg…………………………………………………………..………………….
2.3.3. Louis Vuitton…………………………………………………………..……………………………...
2.3.4. Halston…………………………………………………………..…………………………………….
2.3.5. Moschino………………………………………………………………………….
2.3.6. Michael Kors…………………………………………………………..……………………………...
2.3.7. Banana Republic…………………………………………………………..…………………….......
2.3.8. Proenza Schouler…………………………………………………………..………………………..
2.4 Brands Who Work With Pre-orders………………………………………………………..………….
2.4.1. Loewe…………………………………………………………..……………….……………………..
2.4.2. Jimmy Choo…………………………………………………………..……………………………....
2.4.3. Alexander McQueen…………………………………………………………..……………………..
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Index

4. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
3. Designers and Media Opinions On See Now Buy Now Concept……………………………………………………....
3.1 Quotes from Designers…………………………………………………………..……………………………....
3.2 See Now Buy Now In Media Landscape…………………………………………………………...................
3.3 Customers’ Stance on See Now Buy Now……………………………………………………………………..
4. Social Media’s Steady Evolution Into E-commerce…………………………………..………………………………….
5. Conclusion …………………………………………………………..……………………………………………………….
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Index

5. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Introduction
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6. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
How Digital Has Changed Fashion
Omni-channel marketing has become a buzzword. Brands have realized the importance of creating a consistent experience between
online and offline channels for their customers, as well as improving the presence on the social media channels. Instagram is one of the
most influential channels for the fashion industry, more so now with its advertising feature. Nowadays, customers have a world of
shoppable Instagram feeds with the platforms such as “like2b.uy”. At the same time, fashion world has become more transparent where
the brands and designers give access to the world to experience the internal world of design and creativity via social media posts.
Also, the role of fashion shows has drastically changed, from being a private event just for the buyers to becoming a big PR event for all
fashion influencers. Thanks to the “It Girls” all around the world, consumers are discovering latest trends and new brands to add to the “I
want” or their “shopping list”. On one hand, today’s customer has instant access to the information about any product thanks to the internet
and social media, but on the other hand, not always the assortment which is pushed by the brand during the fashion show or via social
media is available for immediate purchase. The gap between promoted goods by the companies and “wanted” or “searched” goods by the
potential customers brought the entire industry to discuss the new possible marketing trend, See Now Buy Now. But why this concept has
not been present before? Let’s take a closer look at how the fashion shows have evolved since the past century.
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7. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
With technology rapidly taking leaps and bounds, a “domino effect” in consumerism started that only increased the need to buy.
With the e-commerce, consumers had easy access to products only a click away. With social media, consumers started having
more sources of inspiration, and creative ways to show what they bought, which fulfilled their needs even more. With the bloggers
and/or fashion influencers promoting what they bought, where they bought, consumers followed their recommendations as if it
was the law. Finally, with the See Now Buy Now movement, consumers can instantly fulfill all their needs through instant access
to a product, seeing who else (mostly celebrities and influencers) bought it and shared on the social media, just like they would.
9

8. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
So What Is The Point Of See Now Buy Now?
To encourage consumers to make impulse purchases after seeing new collections on the runway
To increase the number of goods sold full-price
To prevent fast fashion copies from hitting shelves before the original articles do
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By the end of 2015, the CFDA announced its collaboration with the consulting firm BCG to reevaluate the traditional, twice a year New
York Fashion Week format. Diane Von Furstenberg, Board Chairman of CFDA said to WWD "We have designers, retailers and
everybody complaining about the shows. Something's not right anymore because of the social media, people are confused" which leads
to the need of creating shows that are directed towards the consumers.
The results from the CFDA's research with BCG concluded that “the time is ripe for change in our market”. In-season relevancy was a
recurring idea during the analysis. Even if brands still have to show upcoming collections to the buyers before deliveries, See Now Buy
Now is an opportunity to lighten the pressure of large-scale presentations and activate sales by dividing budgets differently. The CFDA
encourages designers to evaluate what is best for their brand, and will support innovation and experimentation.
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9. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Types Of "Buy Now”
Being able to buy a fashion
product at the time when it’s
best worn. This kind of
synchronization is very popular
within the consumers, who can
really buy according to their
needs
Based on the idea that fashion
shows should be B2C events.
Therefore, showcasing an
inventory that’s available to buy
which matches the market's
demand, transforming catwalks
into sales events
Consumers can pre-order from
Fashion Shows knowing the
goods will arrive five months
later. In this case, the traditional
fashion show calendar remains
in place, but it has a B2C
component: "see now, buy
now, wear later"
Digital shopping via
social media like Twitter
and Instagram using
'Buy' buttons across the
platforms
We can define several types of the “Buy Now” behaviours. For the moment, customer-driven is the main driver for the See Now Buy
Now debate in the fashion industry, while Seasonal Buy Now is the obvious and necessary approach that needs to be attended to.
Disintermediated Buying is already an ongoing procedure (e.g.: Moda Operandi) as well as Digital Buy Now, Burberry for instance
has been Livestreaming its Fashion Shows since 2010 offering some accessories to be purchased immediately after the show via
Twitter.
Seasonal Buy Now Consumer-Driven Buy Now Disintermediated Buy Now Digital Buy Now
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10. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
How Are Brands Adjusting To Digitally Evolved Customers
Some brands are now keenly perceiving consumers’ tastes and preferences, making slight adjustments to their own brand values
to fit today’s digitally informed consumers. This is not only allowing brands to make strategic moves that would help retain the
creative essence of their brand, but also make more sales and win more customers. The following examples show how some
brands are focused on delivering precisely the kind of service that their customers would like.
Alexander Wang's take on the model only
shortens the time for the customers between
seeing the collection and buying it. Press
and buyers can view the collection when it's
launched, but for the customers, it not only
"creates a sense of immediacy [in the
consumers' minds] but also generates
excitement."
Thom Browne's CEO, Rodrigo Bazan,
showed an interest in the model by
suggesting that if the model was adjusted to
a more bespoke kind of a service where the
business would take a more made-to-
measure move, this would fit perfectly where
their customers who would “see now, try
now, adjust to their size, buy now and
receive it in 12 weeks.”
Paolo Riva, DVF's chief executive said that
their way of fitting into the model would be
by backtracking and doing runway shows
the traditional way where the press and
buyers get a “serious presentation” of the
collection and consumers receive a different
“moment” that will have the “social media
buzz, celebrities and influencers.”
www.fashionweekdaily.com www.businessoffashion.com www.wwd.com
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11. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Which Brands Are Applying See Now Buy Now?
15

12. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Rebecca Minkoff
❖ First brand to announce the change for See
Now Buy Now strategy in December 2015
❖ Season in season collections starting with
Spring 2016 and the whole collection was
immediately available to shop online
❖ The brand wants to maintain ⅓ of the audience
on the fashion show as the real customers
❖ Did not change the schedule for editorials
Rebecca Minkoff about first results:
"Just on the day of the show alone, we sold four times
the amount of spring goods for that day to plan. That's
one store, one day. It's already working. Same thing on
the website."
Type of Buy-Now
17

13. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Burberry
Burberry had been heading in this direction
since 2010, when they began live-streaming
fashion shows online and in 2015 for both it's
A/W15 men and women's fashion shows,
Burberry offered most of the accessories for
viewers to purchase immediately after the
show.
❖ Combined Men's and Women's
collections in one Fashion Show
❖ Will not show in Men's fashion week
anymore
❖ Starting September 2016: Buy Now
Wear Now format will be available
❖ Collections will be immediately
available online and in-stores
Type of Buy-Now
Burberry
“A/W15”
Fashion Show
Tweets
Burberry
“A/W16”
Fashion Show
Tweets
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14. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Public School
New York based brand Public School is the
example of a smaller brand shifting to fit in the
new standard.
❖ Combined men’s and women’s shows into
one
❖ Two shows a year instead four
❖ Combined pre-collection and main
collection
❖ Moved the fashion shows out of New York
fashion week calendar to December and
June
❖ Planning consumer-facing activities
❖ Changing the name from seasonal to
Collection 1, Collection 2 etc.
❖ First show was held on 8th June 2016
Type of Buy-Now
28

15. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Diane von Furstenberg
DVF is one of the brands experimenting with the
new sales strategies. The brand is offering
several pieces from its Fall 2016 collection for an
immediate purchase after brand’s presentation
(not the fashion show) on 14th February 2016
that turned out more into a party and got an
experiential value.
The slip dress worn by Gigi Hadid was available
for sale online while the presentation started, and
this style was offered in a top version, that is still
recognizable as a piece worn by Gigi. This was
announced on all the social medias of the brand
with a direct link (where possible) to the website
to shop the dress.
Type of Buy-Now
33

16. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Moschino
Moschino created a capsule collection for its Fall 2016
Fashion Show. Titled Fashion Kills, the collection was sold
on the brand's online store as well as in selected
department stores such as La Rinascente, Browns and
Printemps, who also promoted the products on their
Instagram accounts.
Guests were gifted Moschino’s “Fashion Kills” cigarette
phone case at the show, which was also one of the many
items from the house’s buy-now capsule collection this
season.
Moschino has already experimented with See Now Buy
Now with its Barbie S/S15 and McDonald's F/W14 capsule
collections by Jeremy Scott.
Type of Buy-Now
36

17. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Loewe
Most French-owned houses have rejected the
new model, which makes it interesting to see
which ones are still reluctant to change and
what is their reason. For instance, LVMH’s
Loewe is one of such brands, however in the
past, the brand has offered buy-now items.
In last FW16 collection of Loewe, which was
presented in March 2016, there were 4 looks
each of which is available for a pre-order. It is
interesting that this brand was one of the first
French brands testing this system. We can
assume that this is the influence of the British
designer JW Anderson, under whom’s reign
the brand became more innovative not only in
terms of design, but also in its business
approach.
Type of Buy-Now
41

18. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
“See Now Buy Now” In Media Landscape
Overview
Journalists have shared their thoughts about the
new “See Now Buy Now” strategy in both
excitement and skepticism at the same time. This
system would be great for those brands that own
factories and have control over each step of the
supply chain process. But, on the other side of
the coin, smaller brands with limited control of
supply chain could face difficulties in organising
their delivery.
Those who disagree with this system, namely the
Italian Fashion Chamber and the French Fashion
Federation announced that as far as they are
concerned, the present system is still valid with a
different logic that they believe in.
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19. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Those brands who have enough resources and
manpower to develop the “See Now Buy Now”
collection can definitely meet the consumers’
demands but for up-and-coming brands and
smaller companies it could be hard to cope with
this new strategy.
Besides the production, there are other
important stages in the life of a collection like
the showrooms and the traditional print media
which takes care of the publications of the new
collections and should adopt to the new
schedules as well.
www.vogue.co.uk
www.harperbazaar.com
www.harperbazaar.com
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“See Now Buy Now” In Media Landscape
Small Brands vs. Big Brands

20. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
The new system introduced chooses to focus on instant delivery
and is moving more towards consumers’ requirements. But what if
this is moving too fast and making us forget the value of creativity?
The answer lies in how brands can balance the creative and
commercial sides of the world of fashion. The “See Now Buy Now”
process doesn’t necessarily have to be fast and taxing for the
designers if collections can be reduced to two seasons per year.
www.dazeddigital.com
www.harperbazaar.com
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“See Now Buy Now” In Media Landscape
Creative vs. Commercial

21. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
Luxury brands are the elite of the lot, so it
shouldn’t come as a surprise that the French
Federation of Fashion rejects the “See Now
Buy Now” model since its similarity with the
fast fashion model is inescapable (a model
often linked with clothes that are produced of
low quality) compared to elite French Haute
Couture.
So the brands need to decide according to
what they fit: staying on top of the pyramid or
not.
www. grazia.fr
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“See Now Buy Now” In Media Landscape
Democracy vs. Hierarchy
www.fashionista.com

22. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
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23. See Now Buy Now
June 2016
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