3. SPRING
FINE JEWELRY
AUCTION
April 19, 2016 | New York | Live & Online
Featuring designs by
Cartier,
Tiffany & Co.,
Van Cleef & Arpels,
David Webb
and more
Paul R. Minshull #16591. BP 12-25%; see HA.com 40020
DALLAS | NEW YORK | BEVERLY HILLS | SAN FRANCISCO | CHICAGO | PARIS | GENEVA | AMSTERDAM | HONG KONG
Always Accepting Quality Consignments in 40 Categories
Immediate Cash Advances Available
950,000+ Online Bidder-Members
Diamond, Turquoise, Gold, White Gold
Enhancer-Necklace, Hammerman Bros.
Estimate: $7,000 - $9,000
Mother-of-Pearl, Turquoise, Gold Bracelet
Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co.
Estimate: $8,000 - $10,000
Burmese Sapphire, Diamond, White Gold Ring
Estimate: $30,000 - $50,000
Visit HA.com/5243 to view lots and bid
INQUIRIES
Jill Burgum | 877-HERITAGE (437-4824) Ext. 1697 | JillB@HA.com
3
6. Tucson 2016
stone cutter ask for recommendations. She did
a wonderful presentation, great photos valuable
information. It reminded me to look at the 4 R’s
before making a final decision about a damaged
stone.
- Reviewed by Barbara Horton, RMV
Turquoise: A
Problematic Stone to
Appraise
Vincent Rundhaug, GIA
GG
Vincent Rundhuag
warned us that the subject
of turquoise can be difficult
and akin to a journey
through hell. We had great guide in Vince. He
does not claim to be expert, but uses expert
approach to turquoise evaluation and valuation.
He is well-spoken and organized. In addition to
beautiful chart of southwest turquoise locations,
he shows how he contracted his master sets. He
tells us this work and do not expect easy answer.
Every mine has its’ own expert. The focus of the
lecture was on southwest turquoise because the
complexity of color, texture, pattern and origin.
Vincent gives us very useful tools on difficult
subject.
- Reviewed by Geoffrey Nelson, GIA GG
The Colorful World of
Brazilian Gemstones
Denise Nelson, GIA GG
Through her excellent
photographs and great
stories, Denise Nelson
provided us with a tour of
different gemstone mining
areas in Brazil, described mining operations and
gave us with some insight into the marketing of
the stones. For those who missed it, I’ll try to
do her (and Brazil) justice! The state of Minas
Gerais in the southeastern region of Brazil,
has been a great source of gemstones, mostly
through its gem-bearing pegmatite; it is also
a good source of iron ore. Southern Brazil,
in addition to Uruguay, is where most of the
amethyst geodes can be found. For those of
us who didn’t know, the potchy black skin on
geodes is a manmade coating; grayish agate is
the natural skin. This grayish skin can easily be
seen in the mines against the darker background
of the host material. When the geodes are found,
a hole will be drilled into it and fiber optic light
used to see what’s inside the mass before it is
broken apart. If the stones inside are pale, and
not desirable, the geodes will immediately be
heated (often there at the mine). A black light can
be used to see how much glue was used to make
repairs to the geodes, e.g. gluing in crystals.
Denise walked us through various mines and
towns of Minas Gerais, including the Petera
Mine (no longer working, but which produced
emeralds in white calcite and stark black shist),
Capoeirana Mine and Belmont Emerald Mine, all
of which did/does produce emerald. The first two
mines are very rustic (and look dangerous), but
the Belmont mine is a safe and secure operation.
At Belmont the emeralds are oiled in the rough,
as soon as the rough is washed and separated.
Denise showed us photos from Governador
Valadares, a busy town for the gem trade, as
well as photos of schorl tourmaline, natural color
aquamarine (which was yellowish green), and
other exceptional faceted stones and carvings.
Many types of gemstones were found at the
Navegador Mine. Although the mine no longer
exists, there is new a new pegmatite excavation
approximately an apartment block away. This
new mine is getting similar material; however,
most of the money is made from feldspar. We
saw photos of the mine’s high ceilings and huge
pegmatite columns. They have also found some
radioactive material and large almandine crystals
here. The Cygana Mine is mined out, but some
collectors still go there to search for minerals; it’s
pretty unstable/unsafe. The Cruzeiro Tourmaline
Mine and the San Mateo Mine are both working
mines. Denise told us of her trip to San Mateo;
there were no generators, so they had to use
lanterns. The owner had fun with them and
salted the mines with all sorts of things, including
some stones that were not even from the area.
However, Denise did see tourmaline that came
from there. The owners of Cruzeiro and San
Mateo allow villagers to look for stones and to
sell what they find. Denise showed photos of
beautiful cabochons and rutilated quartz that had
been found in these mines. Aquamarine is found
by the truck load at the Ponto do Marambaia
mine. They have also found a mix of beryls and
natural color light blue topaz (because this area
has slight natural radiation). Denise reminded us
of the highly controlled irradiated topaz market
because the Chinese previously put “hot” topaz
into the market. Teofilo Otoni is a town where
a few cutters and handful of American dealers
settled. Speaking of cutting, a large stone that
follows the natural crystal will command a lower
price than stones that are cut contrary to the
natural crystal growth. Why are tourmalines cut in
long bars? Because that’s the way the tourmaline
crystal grows. Denise showed us photos of bi-
color amethysts, workshops, and jewelry designs
that were based on the material the designers
had available. Ouro Preto was gold country and
is now golden topaz and “imperial” topaz country.
It’s a tourist town and designers flock here as
well. One of the best mining universities in Brazil
is also located in Ouro Preto. The Antonio Pereira
Mine produces topaz. Here too, the owner
allows townspeople to sell what stones they find,
but the mine looks pretty unstable. We saw a
photo of the owner’s house and one of the floors
that was heavily studded with imperial topaz.
Wow! The Capao Mine is the big industrial mine
for imperial topaz. Capao’s owner hires women
to be sorters because women are considered
“more honest”. The Jequitinhonha River Basin
was the #1 diamond source in the world from
1725 to between 1825-1875. Alluvial diamonds
can still be found here, but it is an area rich in
quartz. The ground is white from deteriorated
crystals. Stones are treated here immediately
after they come out of the mine. Diamantina is
the diamond mine. These diamonds have a faint
foggy skin from the alluvial “process”, i.e. rolling
around in the river. Belo Horizonte, the capital
of Minas Gerais, is a huge city with an incredible
mineral museum and fantastic gem and mineral
experts. Denise showed a photo of “Paraiba
quartz”, which has nothing to do with Paraiba but
is a rare material with a color similar to Paraiba
tourmaline. Pretty! She also talked about
Brazilian opal that is strong and does not easily
craze. She ended her presentation with more
photos of beautiful faceted stones and jewelry
she designed. Denise also provided us with a
wholesale price list for Brazilian gemstones. It
was an interesting tour through some of the most
important gem-bearing parts of Brazil and made
me want to take my own tour in person!
- Reviewed by Audrey Hagedorn, GIA GG
Deconstructing the
Crystal
Clay Zava
Mr. Zava was very
informative with the entire
process of gem cutting.
As a gemologist I do not
have any training with
assessing the rough
material. He went into depth on how he examines
and selects the rough and all considerations
in executing the final cut. He was also very
generous in sharing his pricing methodology. I
feel that all of this along with his new App will be
a wonderful resource/reference in the future.
- Reviewed by S. Quinn McCarthy, GIA GG
Messages sent post-conference:
Dear Gail
Thank you so much for allowing me to attend
your Conference on Monday – it was nice to be
sitting on the other side of the table for a change,
I know what it’s like to organise these events. I
hope that now it is over you are happy with the
outcome and no doubt you have your next event
well under way.
Tucson is a wonderful place – even when
it’s cold!
Very best wishes.
Sandra
Sandra Page
IRV Co-Ordinator
National Association of Jewellers’ Institute of
Registered Valuers
Great time at the Tucson Gem and Mineral
Show! Always a jam packed educational and
pricing trip. NAJA Conference, thank you Gail
Brett Levine, GG and team!
Rhonda Alton, GIA GG
Thank you so much Gail. As always your devotion
and hard work for NAJA paid off handsomly in a
terrific conference. And you accomplished it all
while fighting a nasty cold. “You da man”, I mean
even better “You da woman”.
Michael Cowing, GIA GG
6
8. The popular mixes of the many natural
shades of South Sea pearls present a bit
of a puzzle for any appraiser who is trying
to calculate the value of the many possible
combinations of pearl colors used in these
strands. Pearls from the Philippines, Tahiti,
Australia and a few other locations can
provide a new exciting look when combined
either in a pastel palette, or with strong
contrasts in mind.
Since these color combinations do
provide the opportunity for dealers to use
pearls which do not have to be a color
match, one can safely assume that these
strands should be less in cost than their
perfectly matched counter parts. However,
during the research it became clear that
the more attractive strands had received
much more care in selecting colors which
complement each other, rather than a
random combining of same sizes and
quality. Great care in combining slightly
graduated strands and finding matching
luster, surface appearance, and matching
shapes, does pay off in the end.
As with all pearls, their shape (round,
slightly off round, semi round, drop,
baroque, circle, etc.) needs to be evaluated
along with size, luster and surface quality.
The prices listed are wholesale for unstrung,
slightly graduated, 16 inch strands, as
found at the 2016 Tucson Shows:
• Tahitian mix of black to light silver, 8
to 10 mm round, $800 to $1500 for
stronger color Tahitian mix of black,
silver, white, 9 to 11 mm semi round,
$700
• Golden various shades and white, 9 to
14 mm baroque, $695
• Gold and white, medium quality, 11 to 12
mm round, $550 to $700
• Gold and white, medium quality, fine
luster highlights 8 to 11 mm baroque,
$280
• Light golden, white, silver, dark silver,
10 to 12 mm elongated baroque with
circles, $295
• Golden, black and white, 9 to 11 mm
fine quality and luster, round, strong
colors, $2500
Also readily available were extra long
strands (32 to 40 inches) which consisted
of South Sea pearls of mixed colors, many
smaller and mixed sizes and a variety
of shapes. They provide a more casual,
random look at a much lower cost, since
matching of any kind is not needed and it
creates a marketable, attractive product
since it uses many pearls which are not
easily matched and sellable. These strands
ranged from $180 for medium quality with
mostly small 8 to 9 mm pearls of various
shapes, slightly yellowish gold, cream
to grayish colors to $600 for a strand
with bigger sizes, higher luster and also
more contrasting colors. Some of these
strands include a few large pearls of very
fine quality and adjustments need to be
made in that case, adding what may be a
reasonable cost for each pearl to the value
of the otherwise smaller strand.
It appears that South Sea pearls in the
mid-range to low quality have dropped in
price. Also small 8 to 10 mm round, pastel
colors are currently extremely reasonable,
especially considering the good inventory
of fine quality merchandise available.
Consistent within the last three years is the
demand for high quality, large sized South
Sea strands in both mixed and solid colors.
In the end searching out the many colors
of pearls at the Tucson show was rewarded
by finding and getting to admire a simple,
traditional, all white strand of breathtaking
South Sea beauties:
White, excellent in every way, 16 to 19
mm perfectly round, $150,000, and yes,
there was a second one available for just
$75,000!
- Denise Nelson, GIA GG
How to Evaluate Mixed
Color South Sea
Pearl Strands!
8
9. Dr Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO, the
World Jewellery Confederation, will open the
Mediterranean Gemmological and Jewellery
(MGJ) Conference, scheduled to take place
May 7 to 9, 2016 at the Hotel Tryp Valencia
Oceanic, in Valencia, Spain.
In his opening address Dr. Cavalieri will
focus on the central conference theme. His
talk titled “CIBJO Blue Books on Treated and
Synthetic Diamonds - Delivering Sustainable and
Responsible Jewellery Industry,” will address
the efforts of the World Jewellery Confederation
to develop strategies for accurate disclosure in
order to protect consumer confidence.
Jean Claude Michelou (senior Adviser to the
UNICRI United Nations) is a special new speaker
on “Traceability of Gemstones - An Unavoidable
Path.” It is clear that traceability will soon be
mandatory, since governments, civil society, as
well as luxury brand firms and consumers are
requesting information about ethical practices
and legal provenance, at the time that mining
companies and investors are seeking improved
protection of their investments.
This is the second annual MGJ conference,
held each time in a different exotic location. This
year’s conference is organized by CGL-GRS lab
(Canada) and IGL lab (Greece) in cooperation
with MLLOPIS lab (Spain) and NAJA (USA).
Every year the conference has a central theme
and this year’s will be diamond treatments.
The mission of the conference is to educate
and help people understand the properties
of diamonds, gems and jewellery, provide
members of the industry with networking
opportunities and information that is essential
in the creation of a sustainable business. This
year the format has been fine-tuned to optimise
direct interaction between guest speakers and
participants.
Four international experts will also
present papers related to diamond treatments:
• Dr. David Fisher (De Beers Technologies):
“Progress in the Detection of Diamond
Treatments”
• Dusan Simic (Analytical Gemmology &
Jewellery): “HPHT Post Treatments of
Colorless Diamonds”
• Sonny Pope (Suncrest Diamonds): “HPHT
Processing-Improving Color and Value of
Diamonds”
• Mikko Åström (MAGI): “Practical Applications
of FTIR in a Gemmological Laboratory”
Other speakers will cover topics related to
historic colored gemstones and jewellery, pricing
of rough and phenomenal gems. They include:
•
Dr. Alan Hart (British Museum): “The British
Museum Natural History Gem Collection”
• Lisa Elser (Customgems): “Roughing It ¬-
Dos and Don’ts of Buying Rough Gemstones
Overseas”
• Jeffery Bergman (Primagem): “Phenomenal
Prices - Market Value of Phenomenal Gems”
• Rui Galopim de Carvalho (Independent
Consultant): “Portuguese Royal Jewellery”
Supporters of MGJ Conference are : NAJA
- National Association of Jewelry Appraisers,
JAW - Jewellery Appraisers of the World, MAGI
- M&A Gemmological Instruments and ICA -
International Colored Gemstone Association.
A round table discussion, moderated
by John Chapman (Gemetrix), on “Diamond
Treatments in 21st Century” will be held
with leading experts in the production and
identification of treated diamonds. They will
answer questions from the floor.
Two workshops will be offered, with
gemmologists, appraisers and dealers receiving
hands-on experience with 50 diamond samples:
• One-day Diamond Workshop on “Grading
and Screening of Natural and Synthetic
Diamonds.” Instructors: Manuel Llopis Lopez
(MLLOPIS), George Spyromilios (IGL) and
Branko Deljanin (CGL-GRS). New high color
synthetic Moissanite samples will also be
tested.
• One-day Advanced Diamond Workshop on
“Using Standard and Advanced Instruments
to Detect Natural, Synthetic and Treated
Diamonds.” Instructors: Branko Deljanin
(CGL-GRS) and George Spyromilios (IGL).
The MJG conference website is located at www.
gemconference.com. It provides additional
information about the speakers and their
presentations, the venue, and an optional day
tourofValencia.Italsoenablesonlineregistration
with a 10% discount (use coupon “GIA10OFF”)
for NAJA members. Accommodation is Euro
89 for single and Euro 99 for double room at
the venue, hotel TRYP Valencia Oceanic. The
website for hotel booking at SPECIAL RATE for
MGJ Conference participants is http://meetings.
melia.com/en/gemconference.html
FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE
CONTACT:
• Branko Deljanin, CGL-GRS, Canada,
Conference Chair: info@cglworld.ca
• George Spyromilios, IGL, Greece,
Conference Co-Chair: info@iglcert.gr
Big Interest in Advanced Workshop on Diamond Treatments
MGJ Conference Theme
Membership in DCA, that is! NAJA
has joined the Diamond Council of
America (DCA) for many fine reasons.
Most importantly NAJA joined for you!
Their diamond, gemstone and jewelry
sales courses are written for the retail
jewelry professional providing tools and
knowledge for success.
• The Diamond Course is 21 lessons
long divided into three general sections
of diamond knowledge. $135 book or
$125 online.
• The Colored Gemstone Course is 16
lessons long covering gem materials
and pearls. $135 book or $125 online.
• The Beginning Jewelry Sales Course
is 13 lessons long providing a fast and
effective training tool. $100 online
only.
• The Advanced Jewelry Sales Course
is 12 lessons giving a detailed look into
generational differences. $125 online
only.
Upon successful completion via
online testing, you will receive a certificate
of completion.
This new member benefit not only
provides the NAJAmember with a different
scope and knowledge base but also for the
NAJA Certified Member who is required a
yearly sixteen (16) continuation education
and cannot, for various reasons, attend
NAJA conferences. The Howard Rubin
Educational Foundation Scholarship
can provide tuition assistance! Take
advantage of Howard’s legacy!
In order to enjoy the benefits of these
comprehensive courses, you do not
have to join DCA! NAJA has done that
for you! All you need is log on http://
ce.diamondcouncil.org/, user name
NAJA, password 2016. Once you are
logged you will need to fill out all of the
information, choose the course you want
to enroll in, and process a credit card
payment.
NAJA is proud of this association
with DCA - we feel it will benefit the
NAJA membership primarily but also
cooperation and belief in the mission
and standards of the Diamond Council of
America.
Membership
Becomes YOU!
9
10. WE BUY
OLD EUROPEAN CUTS
CUSHIONS
ROSECUTS
ANTIQUE JEWELRY
MICHAEL GOLDSTEIN
LTD.
580 Fifth Avenue, Suite 903A New York, NY 10036
(212) 764-3430 (800) 235-6581
michael@antiquediamond.com www.antiquediamond.com
.
.
.
Book Review
David Maloney’s newly updated Appraising
Personal Property is an excellent resource for
the jewelry appraiser. Although the book is
geared to appraisers of all types of personal
property, including such specializations as
fine art and machinery, it is not intended
to provide specific knowledge about such
specializations, but rather focuses on principles
and methodology, and is fully indexed to allow
for quick access to a specific area of interest.
The book is well organized into nine broad
categories, each comprising one chapter, with
the Appraisal Principles category spanning five.
As described by Mr. Maloney in his Chapter
Synopses, the listed categories encompass the
following:
Appraisal Terminology (Chapter 1)
covers the importance of consistent, specific
nomenclature within personal property
appraising, lists and defines such nomenclature,
and briefly discusses the value types used by
appraisers.
Appraisal Principles (Chapters 2 through
6) discusses the types of appraisal tasks an
appraiser is likely to encounter, as well as
introducing the concept of value, its definitions,
and the importance of identifying the types and
definitions of value within an appraisal report.
Chapter 3 focusses on the scope of work.
Chapter 4 examines the various “intended uses”
of reports. Chapter 5 explains value-relevant
property characteristics, value creators, and
depreciation, as well as appraisal report dates
vs. effective report dates. Chapter 6 introduces
market principles.
USPAP (Chapter 7) provides a “plain
English” overview of USPAP including the latest
updates to the 2016-2017 edition, as well as the
Preamble, Definitions, Rules, and Standards.
When an appraiser must comply with USPAP
and the Personal Property Appraiser Minimum
Qualifications Criteria are also discussed.
Ethical Standards (Chapter 8) offers
a general overview of the need for ethical
behavior and how personal values, societal
codes of ethics, and USPAP combine to provide
the appraiser necessary guidance.
Research (Chapter 9) focuses on market
and value research and analysis, and covers
the research process as well as research
resources typically used by the personal
property appraiser.
Describing Property (Chapter 10)
emphasizes the important issues of property
description. Description examples of various
categories of property are provided along with
tips for effective descriptions.
Writing an Appraisal Report (Chapter 11)
lists the USPAP-required elements of appraisal
reports, and gives examples of how those
elements might be worded.
The Professional Appraiser (Chapter 12)
discusses the more basic issues and strategies
which are unique or particularly applicable to the
personal property appraisal profession,
including business development, preparing
curriculum vitae, professional development,
office equipment, basic techniques, and
much more. Issues relating to expert witness
testimony are also covered.
LegalIssuesAffectingtheAppraiser(Chapter
13) familiarizes the appraiser with legal issues
with which he or she might become involved,
continued on page 21
Appraising Personal Property: Principles and Methodology, 7th Edition
David J. Maloney, Jr. AOA CM
10
11. Stoned Jewelry, Obsession, and How Desire
Shapes the World, is a new non-fiction book by
author, Aja Radan, a trained scientist, ancient
history major, and jeweler.
The book is broken up into three sections,
Want, Take, and Have and, through a modern
lens, eight noteworthy historical stories describe
jewelry as the object of desire.
Part 1, Want, looks at ways desire shapes
our sense of value and fiscal worth. What is
a jewel worth? It is just a rock after all, some
varieties of which are rarer than others, but
nearly all are “wanted.”
In May of 1626, the Dutch wanted
Manhattan and the Lanape Indians wanted
glass beads and shell buttons. So, there was a
trade. In today’s value, those glass beads and
buttons are worth $24.00.
In 1477, the very first diamond engagement
ring was given by Archduke Maximilian to Mary
of Burgundy’s father, Charles the Bold, to secure
a land merger. But the build-up of these love
promises was really the work of DeBeers. After
the diamond rush and subsequent collapse of
the diamond market in 1882, DeBeers created
a cartel that limited the supply of diamonds
and made them artificially rare. With the 1947
ad campaign “A Diamond is Forever”, though,
soon we all wanted a diamond engagement
ring.
However, for most of Eastern and Western
history, emeralds were the color of money and
the currency of the realm. The Spanish Empire
mandated them and fought battles over them,
until the English won them over.
Part 2, Take, looks at the meaning of jewelry
which is sometimes considered to be cursed,
possessed, evil, powerful, or healing. What is a
jewel’s moral and emotional worth?
In the 1700’s, Boehmer and Bassenge
Jewelry was commissioned by Louis XV to make
a massive 647 diamond, 2800 carat necklace
for his mistress. Just before its completion,
Louis XV passed away and the jeweler tried to
sell it to Marie Antoinette, but she did not want
it. The necklace was then fraudulently stolen in
her name. The French were tired of her antics
and excess, she was tried and beheaded, and
the French Revolution began.
Then there is the story of two royal
half-sisters, Queen Mary Tudor and Queen
Elizabeth, who hated each other but loved
the same pearl, the famous La Peregrina.
After Queen Mary died, Queen Elizabeth took
whatever she wanted and shaped her Empire.
Later, this same pearl adorned the neck of
another Elizabeth (Taylor).
The Golden Eggs of Faberge are described,
including the Peacock Egg, the Moscow Kremlin
Egg, and the Mosaic Egg, as well as their role
in the Romanov family. The tale of how the
Bolshevik Revolution developed Russia and
then precipitated the selling off of the Russian
jewels, both real and forged varieties(through
the war profiteer, con artist, and US capitalist,
Armand Hammer), is also told.
Part 3, Have, is about how our obsession
with beauty and pursuit of precious jewels
leads to violence and chaos, thus shaping
scientific developments and social and
economic infrastructure - how things change
and how things change the world.
Mikimoto, a noodle maker by birth, had a
dream of farming pearls. He wanted to provide
continued on page 21
Stoned: Jewelry, Obsession, and How Desire Shapes The World Aja Raden
GemDialogue®
GemDialogue® Systems, Inc.
P.O. Box 7683, Rego Park, NY 11374
Tel: 718.897.7305 Fax: 718.997.9057
gemdialog@gmail.com
gemdialogue.com
COLOR DESCRIPTION STANDARD FOR THE GEM &
FANCY COLOR DIAMOND BUSINESS SINCE 1983
Book Review
11
12. Nature
The beauty of nature has been always inspiring Van Cleef & Arpels through
the years. Delicate flowers, leaves, amazing animals, fascinating butterflies,
gracious birds were embodied into magnificent precious jewels by master
craftsmen from the Maison’s Place Vendome workshop.
Many pieces in this theme highlight the Mystery (Invisible) Set technique
patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933. An extraordinary fact – the master
jewelers created the invisibly set pieces were able to tell whose work it was
by looking at the piece.
Exoticism
Fascination for the Far East and Middle East swept over Parisian jewelers
in the 1920’s. Indian Maharajas treasures, Egyptian traditions, Buddhism -
vibrant vigorous colors inspired the Maison master craftsmen to create long
necklaces and whimsical bracelets in unusual colors, color combinations
and precious stones.
Couture
For centuries Paris has been the heart of Haute Couture fashion and design.
It was natural for Van Cleef & Arpels to find their endless inspiration from
couture sumptuous fabrics, elegant adornments, and intricate patterns.
During the Art Deco period following its innovative spirit, the Maison began
creating an exquisite jeweled accessory, a Minaudiere. Decorated with gold
and precious stones ribbons, pompons, tassels, bows and lacework these
extraordinary cases provided the perfect finishing touch to elegant society
ladies.
Constantly impressing the world with new technical challenges, Van
Cleef & Arpels’ designers brought the most common in fashion detail zipper
to a completely different Haute Couture level – they created Zip necklace
which transforms into a bracelet when closed.
Ballerinas
The theme of these highly collectable
clips was born from Louis Arpels
passion for classical ballet. Since the
beginning of 1940’s, the ballerina clip
has become one of the iconic creations
of the Maison. These extremely rare
designs symbolize the enchanting world
of Van Cleef & Arpels and represent
one of its most iconic expressions of
feminine figure.
-Reviewed by Victoria Karman
Van Cleef & Arpels: 45 Years in Beverly Hills
A Celebration of Style and Design
One of the most exquisite French Jewelry Houses Van Cleef &
Arpels is celebrating 45th Anniversary since opening of its first
West Coast boutique in Beverly Hills. The celebration is marked
with an exceptional presentation of High Jewelry and takes place
in the Maison boutique located at 300 North Rodeo Drive from
November 13th, 2015 till March 2nd, 2016.
The Collection comprises 68 carefully selected pieces coming
from the Van Cleef & Arpels’ museum and private collections. It is
showcasing jewels fromArt Deco, Retro, Vintage and contemporary
periods. The oldest exhibited piece is a platinum & diamond clip
created in 1927 that can be worn as a choker necklace or a bracelet
on a satin ribbon.
Four unique themes are presented to celebrate Van Cleef &
Arpels’ style and design: Nature, Exoticism, Couture and Ballerinas.
1990-1993
Reine-Marguerites
(China Asters) set
Gold, chyrsophrase, white and yellow diamonds
In the former collection of Dame Elizabeth Taylor
From a Private Collection
2005 Zip Antique Necklace
Platinum, Yellow Gold, and
Diamonds
From a Private Collection
Museum Review
12
13. Triple D! (it’s not what you think!)
Taking photographs of gemstones and diamonds
can truly be a struggle. Getting a clear crisp
professional picture is more, often than not,
the result of a lot of expense and wasted time
trying to obtain the correct lighting, position,
and focus. The triple d Diamond & Gemstone
photo kit (available from Kassoy for $299.00)
and companion app simplifies this process and
makes photographing and sharing images of
stones easy and enjoyable.
The triple d Diamond & Gemstone photo kit is
a portable professional photo-kit that is designed
specifically for use with smartphones. The kit
comes in a nicely padded attractive carry case
that measures 5-¼” x 3”, allowing it to easily fit
in any bag or briefcase. Inside the case is the kit
itself. The small size compact kit is comprised of
two parts of high quality metal that attach to each
other via a magnet, a high quality loupe with an
LED light, tweezer stand, and a black and white
removable background.
Getting started with the kit is easy. Simply
slide the two kit pieces apart and then reattach
them via the magnet to form a stand for your
smartphone. Flip the background to black or white
depending on preference, or remove it altogether.
Your smartphone is then placed on the slip-proof
silicone pad with the camera lens over the high
quality loupe lens. The magnet that attaches
the pieces together allows you to slide the base
portion across so that your phone’s camera can
be positioned properly regardless of the phone’s
model or orientation. Once you are ready, flip
on the LED light and pick up your stone in your
tweezers. The tweezer stand that is on the side
of the kit contains an insert that aids in stability
and allows you to smoothly spin your tweezers to
get images from every angle. The wheel can also
be pulled out to allow larger stones to be viewed.
Once your stone is positioned and you can see it
clearly on your phone’s screen, start shooting; it’s
that easy.
triple d has also created a free companion
mobile app to facilitate easy sharing of stone
images as well as any accompanying information,
including any laboratory certificates. Images can
be taken through the app or uploaded from your
phone’s photos or videos. Once you have an
image you then can add any certificates (GIA,
EGL, etc) or other specific data. When that is
complete, you can send the stone to your contacts
or just save it to your library. The app was clean
and simple. If I did have questions I found that the
tutorials on the company’s website were easy to
follow. When sending images of stones you have
the option of creating a blind group; think of it like
the BCC option in your email, everyone can see
the image and information but they can’t see or
tell if others are part of the conversation. The app
keeps your conversations private and organized.
As you can imagine, this can be especially useful
for selling stones.
I am very impressed by the triple d photo kit.
The compact size and light weight means I can
take it anywhere. The LED light allows me to work
in all light levels and, coupled with the reversible
background, all colors of stones. Even somewhat
difficult to photograph stones come out looking
near perfect without having to retouch and color
correct. The photos are crisp and clear every
time right from the start; using the smart phone’s
screen as a viewfinder means that I can clearly
preview every image and I’m never left guessing
whether I have one that works or not. I’m able to
zoom in and see inclusions and examine facets
without having to change lenses. The flat non-slip
surface means I don’t have to fight with instability.
Because the kit is made for smartphones, I’m
able to easily switch over to video. I especially
enjoy the video option because it allows me to
present gemstones in a more compelling way.
This triple d photo kit is not designed for
photographing jewelry, but I decided to push
the product a bit and I was not disappointed. I
simply removed the reversible background, used
the travel case as extra stability for my hand
and either held the piece with a tweezer or my
fingers. The results were beautiful clear images
of hallmarks, close ups of details on settings, and
photographs of set stones as they would be seen
through a loupe.
triple d has created a product that eliminates
the need for expensive and cumbersome
equipment or costly photo studio fees. The easy
to use portable setup allows anyone, regardless
of skill, to obtain stunning results without the
hassle of possible wasted time spent trying to get
a good shot. The images that can be captured
are professional and beautiful and the ability to
take videos can add a dynamic element bringing
your stones to life for buyers. I personally would
count this among the “must haves” of equipment
for photographing diamonds and gemstones.
- Reviewed by Kathleen Marino, GIA GG
Note: This can be ordered from sales@kassoy.
com for $299.00 with free ground shipping. You
need to identify yourself as NAJA member.
Product Review
13
14. Be it extraordinary, odd or fascinating, the
many shows which constitute the Tucson
gem, mineral and fossil shows, deliver!
Most years, the extraordinary can be
witnessed while walking down any one of
the many aisles of the AGTA or GJX shows.
Rare, natural wonders not only catch
the eye but often deliver an unexpected
endorphin jolt. This year was no exception
showcasing wonderful examples of
Paraibas, Padparadshahs, Trapiches, oh
my!
Outstanding mineral specimens with
equally outstanding prices were awe-
inspiring, but what really caught my attention
this year? Three items in particular tickled
my sense of wonder.
First, I was struck by the quantity of
pre-Columbian artifacts that I saw at the
Ethnographic Group Show at the Grand
Luxe Hotel (previously the Rodeway). A
large private collection of artifacts had
been made available for sale this year,
one of which was a rarely seen, inverted
“T” shaped, broadwing stone breastplate/
pendant, wholesaling around $1,500. It
is suggested that these pendants may be
stylized representations of the bat. These
volcanic stone pendants, measuring
approximately ¾-1” x 5-3/4-6” long, are
attributed to the Tairona culture of northern
Colombia (AD 800-1500). Elegant,
elongated chalcedony beads with flared
ends were also fashioned by the skilled
Tairona jewelry artisans. I was unwittingly
“on trend” this year, having worn two pre-
Columbian rock crystal bead necklaces:
one necklace of one larger and several
smaller cylinder shaped beads and another
necklace of barrel shaped rock crystal
beads, the first Tairona, dating AD 1000 to
1100, the second (photo) are Mochica, N.
Peru, AD 100-800. The aesthetic appeal
of these quartz beads lies with the visible
biconal drill holes, the result of having being
drilled from either side by a stone drill and
abrasive slurry. The labor involved in the
production of these beads and other jewelry
artifacts is significant.
The oddest artifact was another pre-
Columbian artifact in the possession of
a dealer in one of the hotel rooms: a jade
tooth. This jade tooth was unfortunately
broken vertically, otherwise the price would
have been higher than the $150 price
tag offered to me. Admittedly tempted,
I reconsidered as I had just been to the
dentist and having received a good report,
was not currently in need of an ancient,
albeit tougher, replacement.
Those interested in archaeology might
have heard recent reports confirming that
the ancient quarry and source of forty-
three (43) bluestones of Stonehenge had
been found. The quarry in the Preseli Hills
of west Wales, approximately 150 miles
away, made the 3000 BC accomplishment
of moving the stones quite noteworthy!
Also noteworthy and intriguing, was the
presence of some of the Preseli bluestone
transformed into jewelry and other artifacts
and made available for sale in Tucson,
Arizona! I could not resist. I purchased
a stretchy bead bracelet and in doing so
cemented my connection to this ancient
wonder! I felt giddy.
On another note, those who attended
my lecture at the 2015 NAJA Tucson
conference on “Estate Exotics: Collectible
Beads”, might recall having seen a sizeable
( 3-1/2” long x 23.5mm diameter) cylindrical
“chung dZi” bead, strung into a necklace with
other chung-dZi beads, during the hands-
on session. Wearing the necklace this
year, prior to exhibiting it in the Commercial
Mineral Co. (CMC) booth at the AGTA, I
received more attention than I would ever
have anticipated. Three separate Tibetan
groups followed me around inquiring “how
much?” Only one other large chung dZi
bead like mine has been for sale during
past years at Tucson or other shows that
I have attended around the country. The
“other” bead, though slightly larger than
mine, has gone up in price from $10,000 a
few years ago to $35,000 this year! With no
plans to sell my bead this year and pursued
by dogged queries, I assigned a $25,000
price to my bead and took the cards from
all three potential buyers. I have not yet
followed up.
- Sindi Schloss, GIA GG
TUCSON 2016
Exotic, weird and
wonderfully
interesting!
Two photos of jade used in teeth, exhibited at the Jades, S.A. Guatemala museum.
The piece that I saw was an entire tooth split vertically in half.
14
15. Engagement Rings; a backwards glance
Engagement rings are special. Although tech-
nically just a ring, the addition of the engage-
ment symbology imbues it instantly and me-
aningfully with the magical powers of senti-
ment and romance, setting it far apart from
the ordinary. Everyone who sees an engage-
ment ring on your finger knows what it repre-
sents; it is the most publicly recognized
symbol for the universal language of love.
Diamonds are the gemstone most commonly
associated with engagement rings, but that
has not always been the case. They first made
their appearance in betrothal rings circa the
fifteenth century but were not universally pre-
sented as betrothal/engagement rings until
the seventeenth century.
This is partly to do with the supply of dia-
monds, their affordability, and their popularity,
or lack thereof. Until sufficient supplies of dia-
monds were available and techniques evolved
that enabled them to be cut to maximize their
brilliance and fire, they were mounted pretty
much as they came out of the earth and worn
only by those wealthier citizens who had
access to the limited supply. Today the supply
is more than adequate to provide diamonds to
enhance every engagement ring and they are
available in many shapes, sizes and colors.
Contemporary engagement rings run the
gamut from plain to elaborate and all incre-
ments in between. The emphasis has moved
from the style of the setting to the cut of the
diamond.
The solitaire, a plain hoop with a specially
selected diamond in any shape or color, opti-
mized to produce the maximum brilliance
and perched in delicate prongs (or bezel set)
has come to be seen as the classic style.
Since the 1950s this design has often inclu-
ded diamonds or gemstones flanking the
central stone thereby subtly enhancing that
crisp classic uncluttered look. A halo of smal-
ler diamonds surrounding the central gem in
a shimmering outline, and sometimes lining
the shoulders or the entire ring shank, is a
thoroughly modern design. Manipulating and
splitting the shank itself into a myriad of
shapes and undulating channels glimmering
with pavé/micropavé or channel-set lines of
diamonds provides another twenty-first cen-
tury look.
Read the full article on AJU
16. Moderator & Chairman Edward Boehm
brought the meeting to order at 8:30AM.
For those who don’t know, the GILC is
the Gemstone Industry & Laboratory
Conference, which was formed by
the International Colored Gemstone
Association (ICA), in 2005 to address the
increasing number of technical issues
affecting the gemstone industry and how
the gem testing laboratories were dealing
with these issues.
The annual meetings are by invitation,
and the morning sessions are closed to the
general public, allowing a private forum for
the free and often passionate discussion
of important current industry topics. The
afternoon session is open to the public, and
I would encourage readers who wish to gain
a better understanding of the most current
colored gemstone events in our industry,
to attend these public sessions, and ask
questions of this gathering of industry
leaders and laboratory representatives.
For reasons of confidentiality, I won’t go
into the questions and comments offered
by the attendees in the closed General
Discussion Session. I will describe the
science, most of which has been presented
elsewhere, and I ask you to pay attention to
the questions which come to your mind, that
you would like answered, and encourage
you to participate next year, as either an
attendee or in the public forum.
The current ICA Executive Director,
Gary Roskin was introduced, as was the
GILC Vice-Chairman, Warren Boyd. After
these introductions, the speaker agenda
was announced.
The first speaker was Gübelin Chief
Gemologist Dr. Lore Keifert, standing in for
Dr. Daniel Nyfeler, director of the Gübelin
laboratories in Lucerne, Switzerland. Dr.
Keifert explained the advances in country
of origin determination using radio-isotope
ratios, also known as Radiometric Dating.
Because various gemstone locality deposits
were created in different geological eras,
you can tell the country of origin, if you can
date the creation of the gemstone.
So how do you date the creation of a
gemstone? When a crystal is formed, often
times a naturally occurring radioactive
element is incorporated in the crystal
structure, like any impurity. These trace
radioactive elements then decay at a
known rate, allowing age determination.
For instance, if you can determine that an
emerald is 2.97 billion years old, and you
know the South African emerald deposits
are 2.97 billion years old, voila, you have
a South African Emerald. By contrast,
if the emerald is only 65 Million years old
you have a Chivor emerald. Because
Coscuez and Muzo emeralds are 38 to 35
Million years old, you can actually separate
those locations from nearby Chivor by this
dating technique. The same goes for other
gemstone deposits.
This technique is not without its
challenges and limitations. For instance,
in corundum and beryl, it seems the
radioactive elements are more readily
incorporated into certain common
inclusions, like zircon and garnet, rather
than the host corundum. Therefore, one
has to test an accessible inclusion (near
the surface) or risk destructive testing to
reach an inclusion and measure its isotope
ratios in order to date the inclusion. Then
you have to make sure it’s an inclusion
that formed at the same time as the host
material, and not millions of years earlier
(read: Leave this to the experts!) Not
enough data has been acquired to see
how well this technique works on treated
stones. As science advances, radiometric
dating will become a standard tool in the
gemological laboratory’s arsenal for country
of origin determination. And heat treatment
destroys the clock, and takes us back to the
present!
Dr. Jim Shigley of GIA spoke next on the
latest research in the lab, focusing on color-
science. Noting the importance of color as
the most immediate impact and experience
we have with colored stones and diamonds.
Dr. Shigley gave an historical overview of
GIA’s efforts at defining color-space in
gemstones, remarking that it would be easy
if gemstones were two dimensional. The
palette for color in diamonds was set forth
in 1995, with 27 hues defined. Just a few
more and they would have beat out Baskin &
Robbins. Recent changes in nomenclature
for colored gems included the adoption of
terms such as “Pigeon Blood” and “Vivid”
for rubies and “Royal Blue” for sapphires.
I suddenly started feeling like an old fart
(defined as someone who can’t readily pass
like a gas into the rapidly evolving future,
especially when the future starts to look
strangely like the old and stinky past we
agreed to leave behind as we chose to start
using “science” as our basis for furthering
gemology. Butt that’s my opinion…).
Bruce Bridges, of Bridges Tsavorite
spoke on the topic of “Traceability”, posing
the question, “Can gems be reliably traced
from the source to the end consumer?” This
is a subject gaining more and more visibility
as consumers ask questions about mining
practices, green and otherwise, and the
importance attributed to gem locality, which
plays a stronger role in perceived value
of a gem. Few gem mining and selling
operations are vertically integrated, and
usually many hands play a role as a gem
travels from the mine to the bush-broker
to the village broker and so on toward the
commercial buyer, the cutter, the dealer, the
jeweler, and ultimately the consumer.
I don’t think my “buttons” push easily, but
I did come out of this session with at least
one question. If the labs are going back to
“Pigeon Blood” as a ruby color descriptor,
when will they bring back “Wesselton”
and “River” and “Cape” as diamond color
descriptors? I’m going to start wearing my
old wide belts and bell bottoms. “Yeah…
that’s the ticket!”
- Martin Fuller, GIA GG
GILC 2016 February 1st, 2016 Tucson
AGE OF EMERALDS
Madagascar 500Ma
Zambia (Kafubu) 450Ma
Afghanistan (Panshir) 190Ma
Pakistan (Swat) 23Ma
Pakistan (Kaltharo) 9Ma
China (Yunnan) 124Ma
Colombia (Muzo, Cosquez) 35Ma
Colombia (Chivor, Gachala) 65Ma
38
Earth: 4,650Ma
Zimbabwean (Sandawana) 2,650MaMoon: 4,550Ma
South African(Graveloote) 2,970Ma
Brazil (Pirenopolis) 650Ma
Brazil (Socoto/Carnaiba) 2,000Ma
Brazil (others) 650Ma
Madagascar 500Ma
Russia (Ural) 270Ma
Egypt (Wadi Sikait) 550Ma
Universe: 13,800Ma
RADIOACTIVE DECAY IN
MINERALS
• The rate of decay is specific per isotope, and very constant:
half-life = time it takes for half of the isotopes to decay
• The half-life ranges from fractions of seconds to billions of years.
16
17. In the last issue I reviewed the “1st International
Emerald Symposium” in Bogota, Colombia.
The symposium itself was a remarkable event,
it’s true, but it wasn’t my favorite part of the
adventure. My entire career, clients have asked,
“Have you ever been to the mines?” Well finally
I can say “Yes!” And if you have ever thought of
taking the plunge and visiting a mine, I encourage
you to push through any imagined resistance and
just do it!
At the end of the three-day symposium, thirty-
eight of us opted to stay on for an opportunity
to venture deep into remote Colombia, to the
eastern side of the Andes, to explore the heart of
the emerald mining region.
A wagon train of hearty SUV’s was convened
and we broke into teams of five or six, including
our drivers. The drivers were from the emerald
mining regions, and were very familiar with
the route and terrain. Our team consisted of
Daniel, our driver (no habla ingles – this is a
total immersion event), Mr. & Mrs. Kennedy Ho
of the Asian Institute of Gemological Science in
Bangkok, myself, and Mr. Teodoro Naranjo, a
skilled goldsmith and good friend (and translator!)
from Washington, D.C.
It was close quarters in our brand new SUV at
5 in the morning, with all the bells and whistles.
I know it had all the bells and whistles, because
we heard them, often! Daniel, a former miner,
was use to a basic stick shift, and had little
understanding of the complex electronic key
system. He set off the alarm several times that
morning, in the process of trying to start the car.
We watched room light after room light go on in
the Sheraton as he mastered the new technology.
Later during the trip, if we were in the car, and
he wasn’t nearby, he’d hit the alarm button in his
pocket, all the windows would go up, the doors
would lock, and the alarms went off, and we
would be trapped, unable to open the doors from
the inside. Eventually it became humorous, then
old, and finally Teddy took the keys.
We left the bustle of Bogota before 6AM, and
in short order it seems we were “in the country”,
heading toward the mountains. In the afternoon,
we arrived in Chivor, a good size city at over
6,000 feet altitude – higher than Denver, but
still lower than the nearly 8,700 foot altitude of
Bogota. We saw the statue of the natives holding
high their emerald treasures at the city center.
About an hour beyond Chivor, over rutted, bone
rattling roads, more resembling paths, we arrived
at our first mine, known as Manantial. As the
day was waning, we were told to dress quickly
for the occasion, and we donned our high rubber
boots, black shirts, gloves, helmets and battery
powered head lamp. This was our first time
suiting up, and it was kind of comical, as no one
was really there to tell us how to get this gear
on, and some were more adept than others. Oh,
yeah, did I say there was no place to change?
We were on a plot of grass, parked outside the
entrance to the mine, which was essentially a
hole in the side of a mountain. Modesty was cast
aside, and we crouched behind cars and trees
and, yes, it was a bit easier for the guys, but no
one was deterred or left behind. We split into two
groups of about 16, and went into the side of the
mountain.
Now is when I had second thoughts. First, I’m
not the right size for this job. The adit is about 5
feet high, which means I am severely stooped.
Imagine me with my hands on my thighs, bent in
half, walking into an unlit (yes, unlit save for our
headlamps) dark, short tunnel, with about four
inches of water running past me trying to escape
the place I’m going into, and, icing on the cake,
it’s getting as I perceive it, harder to breathe and
I feel like I just put on a bunch of clothes and went
into a sauna.
Second thoughts? Well, I didn’t know where
I was going, or how long I was going to be in
there, and after the eleventh time I hit my head
on the rocky roof above me, the guy behind me
stopped counting, out loud, at least. Oh, did I
mention my copious headspace was competing
with a four inch plastic tube that ran along the
side of the roof, presumably bringing in “fresh”
air? So after about fifteen minutes of this, I will
say I did have second thoughts, and actually
wrestled with the thought of turning back, as it
seemed to get even harder to breathe. Was I
in a bit of a panic? Maybe. I had to talk myself
into continuing the journey toward the belly of
the mountain. From time to time we’d stop and
one of the more seasoned of us would point out
features such as stalactites forming on the walls,
or calcite veins and we would pass shafts going
darkly off to the side into the underground maze.
I just knew Golum was somewhere behind me.
Or ahead of me. Just precious!
Sometimes we would come to a junction of
tunnels where we would feel a breeze of cool
air and we would stop and savor it. In actuality,
it was probably only 80 degrees in the draft,
but cooler by far than the 110 plus degrees of
the heart of the mine. This was, I found out by
comparison, the least sophisticated of the three
mines we would visit. There was no lumber
shoring the walls or roof, and there were no lights
other than our lamps. We were shown current
working faces with pockets in the calcite, which
threaded through the black shale, had been
picked clean of emerald crystals. We walked in
one direction, for over a mile and almost an hour
into the mountain, through various shafts. It was
not for the faint of heart. And we still had to get
back out!
I have a new found respect for the light at the
end of the tunnel. Go to the light! After the journey
to the center of the earth, we had a late shift lunch
with the miners. Basic and tasty, mystery soups,
starches and meat. Plantain, potatoes and rice
are all good after a day in the mine. So is beer!
The black shale powder is pervasive, like wet
coal dust. In my best Jolson, I was ready to break
out in “Mammy, How I Love Ya!”, but I refrained.
We spent the night in kind of a recreational
In Search of Green Fire
17
18. country camp, with nice, basic amenities. The
room had a ceiling fan that spun if you blew on
it. The shower had one PVC pipe coming out of
the wall over a drain in the bathroom floor. It was
simple to operate, as it had only one knob. Thank
God for small favors.
Chivor is in the eastern belt of the eastern
and western emerald belts. Our next stop was
to visit a mine in the western belt, Cunas. Cunas
is one of several western belt mines such as La
Pita, Muzo and Cosquez. We left very early and
drove over the mountains, and down into lower
altitudes, where the weather warms a bit. It took
half a day of driving, nearly twelve hours, up and
down mountains via switch-backs, across rivers,
through verdant tropical forests, with a small
clearing here and there for a simple farm, a few
cattle, some horses, and many, many skinny
dogs.
We had three people in the back seat, trying to
catch what sleep they could, rolling on top of each
other to the right, then the left, unconsciously
shouldering out some personal space. Our
vessel navigated the swells and troughs of the
road, and I felt fortunate riding shotgun with
Daniel. The alarm hadn’t gone off in a couple of
hours.
We arrived late in the day and now we knew the
routine. Quickly into our soiled shirts, boots and
helmets, and we were off. This mine was a notch
up from the previous mine. There was some wood
shoring for the ceiling, in a few places, and a
larger diameter air tube, and electric wiring for the
occasional light bulb. There were definitely areas
of “stale” air, where you didn’t want to linger. I can
see where a canary would have come in handy.
There’s a bit more mechanical equipment in this
mine, and more spacious shafts. After nearly a
kilometer of walking we came to a small elevator
that took a couple of us at a time down deep into
the mountain, to the areas currently producing
emeralds. We were never really allowed to see
the pockets of emeralds. There is tremendous
security and secrecy where there is green.
That night we celebrated at our camp, with
several of the more adventurous heading out to a
“Nightclub”, to return in the wee hours. The next
morning we went off to explore the mine I had
heard about my entire career, the Muzo mine.
This mine has had the most notable production
historically, and produces the “classic” Colombian
emerald color, and of course, emeralds containing
those famed “Three-Phase” inclusions!
Commandeered by Victor Carranza in the
1970’s and controlled with an iron fist, even
against the onslaught of the drug loards in the
80’s and 90’s, the Muzo mine produced the
most coveted emeralds. Before the Colombians
became more ecologically minded, open pit
mining was the preferred method of operation,
and many hills and mountainsides in the valley
we bulldozed to obtain the emeralds. Now
the search goes on by tunneling deep into the
mountains to find the green fire. The tailings of
both the open-pit mining and now the tunnel
operations have been dumped in the Itoco river,
where the “guaqueros” sift through the tailings in
search of the emeralds that were missed by the
professionals. Anything they find enhances their
subsistence living.
The operation is clustered at the base of the
mountain, just above the river, which we had
to cross in our SUV caravan. Luckily it was low
tide… Though it didn’t look like much when we
were above the mine coming down the mountain,
there was no doubt when we arrived on site that
there was serious money behind this operation.
There was a personal power plant, bulldozers
and trucks, and lots of razor wire protecting the
compound. We parked and donned our gear
and cameras, only to be told there would be no
pictures once we entered the gate. This caused
great consternation, as many of the people on
this adventure were journalists with instructions
to document the journey. It actually got heated,
but even going up the ladder produced no
acquiescence. The policy was firm. So who’s
going to sit it out in protest? Nobody. No one was
going to miss an opportunity to go into the Muzo
mine.
The Muzo mine is now owned by Mineria
Texas Colombia (MTC). It seems a few months
earlier there was an insurrection, and an actual
take-over of one of the nearby mines, which cost
lives, and involved hundreds of locals, and in the
end, cost the MTC untold millions of dollars in
lost inventory. This was the reason for the high
security, and we all understood their position. The
shafts of this mining operation were all shored
up with timber, and were taller, thank God, and
better ventilated than the previous mines. The
elevators were much better (holding six people!)
and took us deep into the earth. Another elevator
down, and then a re-bar ladder another ninety
feet down, and we were in the productive area
of the mine. We saw the locked bags with tubes,
that the emeralds were immediately put in when
found, and then brought to the surface at the end
of the shift. In this mine, we passed into other
tunnels, and then ultimately exited at another
entrance in the mountain.
All in all, it was a dream come true, and
well worth the time and money. The three-day
symposium was $150.00. Yeah! The airfare from
DC to Bogota was about $650.00. The Sheraton
was about $150 a night, and the trip to the mines
was $950.00. Figure about $2,500.00 in costs
plus the time away - a week to eight days off
work, and you have a lifetime of memories, about
thirty-five new friends from all over the world,
and a few stories for your clients. And when you
are next asked the question,”Do you ever go to
the mines?” you tell ‘em, “Yeah, I’ve been there,
done that.” It is all so worth it. So go forth bravely,
Padawan! Go forth, and live life!
-Martin Fuller, GIA GG
18
19. Being suspended over a 40ft pit without even a
thin rope keeping you from crashing to the earth
is the one true test of any gemologist. As I was
lowered into the dirt and danger of Sri Lanka’s
sapphire mines, I had never felt so far away from
the finely polished beauty and glamour of my
daily job in Dubai or Basel and the other trade
shows. But it was this moment of scrambling on
my hands and knees through the mud, as water
poured from cracks around me, just for a single
glimpse of blue within the brown that I realized
this was my true calling. And it was all thanks
to one man - my inspiration Vincent Pardieu,
who knelt beside me in the cavern, guiding me
towards the true beauty hidden in a pit of horror.
Meeting Vincent
My journey to Sri Lanka started nearly ten years
ago when I first became aware of Vincent’s blog
Fieldgemology.org. At the time I was working
as a buyer at the department store Galeries
Layfayette in Dubai and had become fascinated
by the gemology field after watching the French
movie Place Vendome. Spurred on by a desire to
learn more about the industry and craftsmanship
of these precious stones, I became an avid
follower of Vincent’s blog, awaiting each new
adventure with excitement and trepidation.
Eventually I plucked up the courage to leave my
glamorous secured job with Galeries Lafayette
and follow my passion, I obtained my GG at
the Gemological Institute of America in London
and subsequently began working for a color
diamond trader in Dubai. Before I go to Dubai I
was working as a diamond cutter in the jewel city
of Johannesburg where I learned how to plan,
cut and polish diamonds, there I felt ready to
email Vincent and despite his fame and renown
as the “Indiana Jones of Gemology”, he replied
to me and indeed encouraged me to follow this
blossoming passion. Never did I think all those
years ago that he would one day ask me to join
him on an expedition, the very thing I aspired to
and hoped for. So to be asked to join his FE74
GIA Laboratory Bangkok expedition to the
gemstone jewel box of Sri Lanka was a dream
come true in every sense.
A Trip to the Market
Sri Lanka is a country which lives and breathes
beauty. It boasts a landscape lush in flora and
fauna and biodiversity. For us, it also promised
some of the world’s most precious sapphires that
are renowned for being as rich in color as the
country’s famous native bird, the peacock. The
pursuit of this peacock-blue perfection first brings
us to the coastal town of Beruwala and its famous
sapphire-trading market. Known as the China
Fort, after the Chinese traders who settled there
roughly 300 years ago, the market teams with
stones from all over Sri Lanka. However, many
stones are sourced internationally, with some
coming from as far as Madagascar or Nigeria
meaning buyers need to be on their guard and
look for the key differences in the stones before
parting with their money in one of the many
examining offices or on the noisy street.
The Mines
Leaving the hustle and bustle of Beruwala, we
set out to find the origins of stones we had seen
traded on the market stalls. Our first destination
was Kataragama, a sacred town which welcomes
thousands of Buddhist, Hindu and indigenous Sri
Lankan Vedda pilgrims through its yellow arched
gate every year. It was also the scene of a big
discovery in 2012, and it was these unearthed
gemstone deposits and the ensuing rush that led
us to the town last year.
Here the mining area is still largely non-
mechanized. We watched as two local men dug
their own five-feet pits by hand, emptied them of
water and then sifted through the dregs for stones
in the same way as Californian gold rushers
did in the 19th century. We witnessed their
disappointment as only a solitary poor quality
sapphire came from their efforts. But Vincent,
ever the optimist, assured them their discovery
may soon lead them to better quality sapphires
and that their work was not for nothing. From
the town’s peaceful forests, we then journeyed
to some of its mechanized mines where workers
combine traditional methods with heavy industry-
style diggers, which allow them dig huge craters
and build a large-scale operation. Though not
well-known internationally, these industrial-scale
mines are in fact contributing to a large portion of
Sri Lanka’s sapphire production.
This visit to Kataragama’s mines also proved
something of a lesson for me. Contrary to
popular belief, the closer you are to these mines,
the higher the price you pay for stones rather
than the reverse. The experience gave a whole
new meaning to the phrase “location, location,
location” and any prospective buyer should really
do their research before dealing this close to the
gems’ source.
Into the dark
The city of Ratnapura has a gemstone market
even bigger than that of Beruwala. However, the
surrounding mines which serve this gemstone
metropolis are among some of the most unique
Vincent and our team have ever encountered.
The district is essentially one huge, waterlogged
rice paddy, a normally unthinkable place for
a gemstone mine. Except that through the
community’s skills and resourcefulness, they
have created structures from logs and bamboo
to carry the mud, reducing the water level and
allowing them to develop a large-scale mining
industry.
And it is here where I found myself tentatively
being lowered on a bucket into one of these
narrow pits with nothing but a small head torch
for light. Here was perhaps one of the most eye-
opening experiences for me. With nothing but a
continued on page 21
Sri Lanka: Returning to the Earth
19
20. The largest trade only event serving the
antique jewelry and watch industry, the
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show,
returns to the Paris Hotel and Casino on
June 2-5, 2016..
Each year, the Las Vegas Antique
Jewelry & Watch Show welcomes
thousands of jewelry trade experts to view
the finest antique jewelry and watches
from all corners of the world. The show’s
dedication in offering distinguished and
unique merchandise has made it a staple
in Las Vegas for two decades. With more
than 400 booths, collections range from the
Renaissance to Modern periods. Items on
the show floor include exquisite gemstone
and diamond jewelry, retro watches,
cameos and intaglios, flora and fauna
statement pieces and more. In addition,
elegant signed pieces from famous brands
including Cartier, Bulgari, David Webb,
Harry Winston, Patek Philippe, Buccellati,
Van Cleef & Arpels and many others will be
available.
Registration is now open for the jewelry
trade only. Pre-registration is $30, on-site is
$50 for all four days. The show opens one
day before JCK Las Vegas Show. The Las
VegasAntique Jewelry & Watch Show times
are Thursday, June 2 to Saturday, June 4
from 11 a.m. - 7 p.m. and Sunday, June 5
from 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. For more information
about the show, call 239.732.6642 or visit
www.VegasAntiqueJewelry.com.
The U.S. Antiques Shows and Mary
Bender, Marketing Director, sends a
comp invitation to NAJA members. You
must register online and use the code
NAJA16LVA. If you register onsite you will
need to pay the onsite fee of $50. Bring
your 2016 NAJA Membership Card for
proof of membership.
The Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch
Show Marks 20-Year Milestone
Pre-registration for the 2016 SMART Show
Chicago is now open! With one click and a
few minutes of your time, you’ll be on track
to shop, learn and network at the industry’s
most innovative event. Here’s a sneak peek
at the excitement that’s waiting for you in
April:
• Shop 350+ booths of the industry’s top
vendors, including special pavilions for
fine and designer jewelry, diamonds,
colored gemstones and bench supplies
• Learn new ways to grow your business
from our experts with ideas on
marketing, sales, customer service and
more in over 50 education sessions from
the most innovative names in retail
• Enjoy an evening of food, drinks,
dancing and fun with industry friends at
The SMART Party Chicago on Sunday,
April 17
• Meet winners of this year’s America’s
Coolest Jewelry Stores contest and get
DIY tips that work in the real world
You really don’t want to miss this event.
Avoid the lines — get your entire store pre-
registered today!
Smart Show extends an invitation for
NAJA appraisers to register at http://www.
rsvpbook.com/event.php?563818
Welcome to the smartest show in the Midwest!
Hosted at the Paris Hotel and Casino, June 2-5, 2016
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016
Subject: Hello
My name is --- and I live in Atlanta,
Georgia ! I am from Atlanta, grew up
in Marietta ~ I have run across these
diamond(s) which are pictured or
video taped in the attachment w this
sent email.
I was wondering what kind of
Diamond these are? And if they
are worth money?! And If that is the
case.. Do I pay you? As the rock
appraisal specialist... How h do
these things work ??
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2016
Subject: market
i have diamonds looking for market
We Get
(e)Mails!
20
21. continued from page 19
small tube of air keeping our lungs
nourished, I realized this was a challenging
place for humans. Just one tiny movement
in the mine’s structure could have led to
the end of us and the miners. Such an
experience frees you to appreciate the
horror and beauty that earth has to offer.
It’s something that does not bear thinking
about when you see the stone bought and
sold for thousands, sometimes hundreds
of thousands, of dollars over the pristine
counters. But yet every day these miners
pull buckets of gravel from these pits, wash
the material and handpick the hidden illam.
They do this because, like us, they only
have one prize in mind: that one perfect
sapphire. And they were prepared to give
their lives for it.
Before leaving Ratnapura, I met with
Master Simon, a traditional burner who will
spend up to days treating the unearthed
gems to get the stones’ perfect color. Prior
to this meeting, I, like many others, had
always regarded these heated stones as
being of a lower. However, after seeing the
love and dedication Master Simon gave
each individual stone, I realized there is
just as much beauty in these natural heated
gems as those perceived as being the
natural untouched ones. Now I see these
heated stones with an added romance that
I could not truly appreciate before.
Conclusion
Though I did not leave Sri Lanka with that
one perfect stone I had hungered for so
dearly, I did leave with two unforgettable
weeks that have only boosted my hope and
determination to find that perfect sapphire.
And one thing this expedition has really
helped me understand is that we as humans
are like diamonds. Like precious stones,
we do not come into our own without the
challenge and pain of being tested. And
with one’s own experience comes polish
and knowledge which will keep us durable
like diamonds and sapphires.
- Michele Prince, GIA GG
continued from page 10
most commonly including issues relating to
bailment, title, negligence and malpractice,
fraud, and liability. Several tax court
cases are summarized to provide
an understanding of issues to
which the IRS is sensitive, including
choice of appropriate market, fair market
value,
and valuation discounts.
In addition, there are several appendices
covering everything from client data logs
and contracts to sample transmittal letters
to US Treasury regulations. There is a full
glossary and complete index.
This comprehensive guide provides an
excellent ready reference on the principles
and methodology of personal property
appraising. The text is well-written and
understandable, not veering into overly
complex “legalese”, and the format is
quite readable. I would recommend Mr.
Maloney’s thorough and newly updated text
as a helpful supplement to the professional
appraiser’s library.
- Reviewed by Deborah J. Finleon, GIA GG,
CMA (NAJA), Associate Director, NAJA,
Chair of Education
continued from page 11
a pearl necklace to everyone in
the world, much to the chagrin
of the natural pearl market. Due
to his successful cultivation of pearls,
he helped save Japanese culture from
destruction.
A Hungarian countess, wanting
something different but still within her class
system, commissioned Patek Philippe to
make the first wrist watch, a working clock
on a bracelet. Later, during WWI, the wrist
watch revolutionized modern warfare with
the synchronization of time.
Stoned is an entertaining and easy
historical jewelry read. Aja Raden’s attitude
was often humorous and direct. There
may be some liberties taken with history;
nonetheless, the book was enjoyable.
- Reviewed by Heidi Harders, GIA GG
If “password” is your online password,
you’re in good company... and that’s bad.
As the single most popular log-in used to
access online accounts, it’s also the one
most easily hacked by cybercriminals.
Changing the ‘o” to a zero-
”passw0rd”- is not much better. It ranks
as the 18th most common, according
to SplashID, a company that produces
password management software. And
with more websites now requiring
passwords to include both letters and
numbers, you may think you’re safe with
“abc123.” Think again. That password
ranked fifth.
Some new trends have popped
up in SplashID’s analysis of millions of
passwords. Joining the longtime “don’t
use” passwords “qwerty” - the top left
letters on a keyword-is “qazwsx,” a top-
to-bottom sequence on the left. There’s
also increased use of common names.
Officials, however, are baffled by the
popularity of “monkey” and “shadow.”
But what’s clear is that using any of
these passwords significantly increases
your risk of identity theft. Although cyber
books sometimes apply sophisticated
hacking software, they’re more likely to
depend on the old-fashioned method -
repeatedly trying common passwords to
log into your account.
Here’s how to make passwords
harder to hack yet easier to remember:
• Go long. Use at least 12 keystrokes.
One study shows that a good
12-character password would take
hackers more than 17000 years to
crack.
• Mix it up. Use upper-and lowercase
letters, spaces and underscores, and
symbols like @ and %. (Now you see
why the passcode to the Members
Only page is so weird!)
• Finesse your favorites. For easier
recall, base your passwords on foods
you like, TV shows or first letters of a
song, but with tweaks, symbols and
conscious misspellings.
Whatever you choose, use different
passwords to access online financial
accounts, email social networking,
and even post comments on websites.
Consider changing them every 90 days
or so.
To gauge password protection, go
to microsoft.com/security and select
“Create Strong Passwords.”
Worst Passwords
A lady entered a jeweler’s and said, “You sold my husband a
diamond ring yesterday but it’s the wrong size”
“No problem madam, we can
adjust the finger size easily”
“Oh, you don’t understand, you
sold him a 1 ct. size, and I take a
5 ct. size.”
21
22. Jeffrey Allinson, GIA GG, presented at the McLean American Antique Arts
Association in January on Jewels and Gemstones.
LaShawn Bauer, GIA GG, for his article “In the Trenches” in the December
issue of Jewellery Business.
Katy Bodenburg, GIA GG, Tracy Forget, GIA GG, Christopher Jacobs,
GIA GG, Merle Koblenz, GIA GG, Pamela Kudysch, GI GG, Josephine
Perkins, GIA GG, Laima Rastenis, GIA GG, Janet Steinmetz, GIA GG,
Neil Street, GIA GG, Susan Viglione, GIA GG, for completing the GIA
2015 Continuing Education Program.
Mike Burnette, GIA GG, passed the Gem-A Foundation Course.
Mark Cartwright, GIA GG, for achieving Certified Master Appraiser status.
Jane Chaikowsky, GIA GG, for achieving the title Master Gemologist
Appraiser from the American Society of Appraisers.
Jo Ellen Cole, GIA GG, for reviewing “Cartier: Royal High Jewelry and
Precious Objects” in the Winter 2015 issue of G & G.
Vicki Cunningham, GIA GG, for achieving Certified Master Appraiser
status.
Gina D’Onofrio, GIA GG, for her article “Pearls of Wisdom” in the
December issue of Jewellery Business. Gina also achieve Certified Master
Appraiser status.
Richard Drucker, GIA GG, for presenting “Market Update” at the AGTA
GemFair in Tucson. Richard also presented “Tucson Market Trends and
Current Industry Issues” at the Houston AGS Guild in March.
Eric Fritz, FGA, for presenting “Pearls of Wisdom” at the AGTA GemFair
in Tucson.
James Gattas responded to “Do You Use Checklists in any part of Your
Business?” in the March 2016 issue of InStore Magazine.
Ted Irwin, GIA GG, for being featured in a new clip from KOMO-TV about
appraising a Quahog purple pearl.
Chris Jacobs, GIA GG, for participating in “Hot Sellers” in the February
edition of InStore Magazine.
Sonya Jelladian-Gage responded to Real Deal “The Case of the Abuse
Ruse” in the March 2016 issue of InStore Magazine.
Kathy Kinev. GIA GG, for her article “What I Learned at MJSA ConFab
2015” in the January issue of Southern Jewelry News.
Gail Brett Levine, GIA GG, for presenting “Solving the Puzzle: Associating
the Pattern of Color with Prices at Auction for Fancy Colored Diamonds:
at the AGTA GemFair in Tucson. She also presented “How to Appraise
Antique Jewelry” at the Atlanta Jewelry Show in February.
Steve Miska, GIA GG, for being quoted in the article “We’re Still Saying
Goodbye to a Lot of Good Jewelers” in the January 6th edition of JCK
Online.
Denise Nelson, GIA GG, for presenting “Precious Heirlooms, a Message
from the Past: Te Gem/Jewelry Version of Genealogical Sleuthing” at the
San Diego Mineral & Gem Society in January.
Paul Nilsson, FGA, for presenting “Valuing Jewellery for Insurance: Is a
New Approach Needed?” at the Gemmological Association of New Zealand
and Jewellery Valuers Society combined conference in New Zealand.
Carole Richbourg, GIG GG, for her article “Mastering the Method Of
Manufacture; knowing how a piece was made can help in the appraisal
process” in the February issue of Jewellery Business magazine.
Erica Sanchez-Hawkins, GIA GG, joined AGTA as a Retail Member.
Jack Spirit, GIA GG, for achieving Certified Member status.
Chuck Stoddard, GIA GG, for winning the Gem-A scholarship for the
Scottish Gemmological Conference in March.
Kudos to...
Please welcome the following New Members
Natalia S. Berry, GIA GG
Berry & Co.
P. O. Box 36275
San Jose CA 95158
408.269.6931
natalysberry@gmail.com
Heather Davis, GIA GG
Stellar Gem Services
314-1260 Raymer Avenue
Kelowna, BC Canada V1W 3S8
250.864.7619
stellaragemservices@gmail.com
J. Miles Dowd
Dowd Enterprises
13601 Preston Road, Suite E235
Dallas TX 75240
972.342.8456
milesdowd@gmail.com
Jeanne Earley Hawk, GIA GG
Jeanne Hawk Fine Jewelry
Appraisals, LLC
5521 Scotts Valley Drive, Suite 235
Scotts Valley CA 95066
831.359.3449
info@hawkjewelryappraisals.com
Judy Gulledge, GIA GG
Upscale Consignment
17785 SE 82nd Drive
Gladstone OR 97027
503.650.6351
judy@ukpscaleconsignment.com
Lynn R. Kelly, GIA GG
Lark on the Go
P. O. Box 2430
Santa Fe NM 87504
505.455.0705
lmarkelly@gmail.com
Susan Lehr, GIA GJG
1289 Chessington Circle
Heathrow FL 32746
407.435.8663
slehr2000@yahoo.com
Patrick Michael McFarlin, GIA GG
McFarlin’s Studio
522 West Maurice Boulevard
Hot Springs AR 71901
501.701.4367
michael@mcfarlinsstudio.com
Surbhi D. Pandya, GIA GG
My Diamond Charms
4275 Executive Square, Suite 200
La Jolla CA 92037
858.999.1827
mydiamondcharms@gmail.com
Cory Schifter
Casale Jewelers
1639 Richmond Raod
Staten Island NY 10304
718.351.8300
cory@casalejewelery.com
Tara Sims, GIA GG
Yesterday’s Change
429 North Ridge Road
Henrico VA 23229
804.285.5745
tara@yesterdayschange.com
Michelle Wagner, GIA GG
Wagner Jewelry Appraisals
P. O. Box 2793
Carmel CA 93921
831.596.2500
shelly@wagnerjewelryappraisals.
com
Ann Bauer Westley, GIA GG
4547 Hancock Circle
Oceanside CA 92056
847.533.9992
aejewelry@gmail.com
Gloria Weyant, GIA GG
London Jewelers
2046 Northern Boulevard
Manhasset NY 11030
516.627.7475
gloriaweyant@aol.com
Leslie Wright, GIA GG
Wright Macy Designs Ltd
990 Asbury Road
Cinn OH 45255
513.702.1870
wrightmacy@gmail.com
22
23. a publication of the national association of jewelry appraisers
Member Highlight!
Vicki Cunningham, GIA,GG
Certified Master Appraiser
Inside the Loupe
When you hold the loupe over a gemstone and allow its
magnification to come into focus, it more clearly reveals the color
and clarity of that gem’s makeup, and just as importantly it reveals
the inclusions and blemishes that define the gems character.
If I take the jeweler’s loupe and hold it over my career,
it offers much the same assessment. From the colorful and
clarifying moments to the more character-building challenges and
tough decisions, each step along the way has added to the depth
and grade of the gemstone that is my life and my career.
Retail was my first love and with a degree in Fashion
Merchandising under my belt, I got a job in a department store
and proceeded to dress women in chic outfits. With an eye
toward management I moved from department manager to
clothing buyer and eventually to merchandise analyst for a large
department store chain. I even created my own store concept,
all the while running around the retail floor during the day and
nursing my sore feet at night.
It was my husband, Howard, who turned my head from
clothing to jewelry. And with his experience in loose stone sales
and my experience in retail, we opened Cunningham Fine Jewelry
in Tulsa, OK. Together we proceeded to spend the next 25 years
figuring out what beautiful adornments in fine jewels would tweak
the imagination of our clientele, and took great pride in building
our business, our reputation, and our circle of friends in the
jewelry industry.
With the tools of our industry near at hand, I happily served
with other successful jewelers on such boards as the Oklahoma
Jewelers Association, Jewelers Executive Conference, Jewelers
of America, Council for Responsible Jewelry Practices, Diamond
Council of America and Jewelers for Children. I traveled across
this country in support of the industry and made speeches to
international jewelers and suppliers on issues of importance to our
field.
Finally I realized it was time to bring my love affair with retail
to an end. In 2012 we closed the retail store after a quarter
century, and while it was a difficult decision and at times painful
process, I realized there is a whole other life that happens on
Saturdays and Christmas Eve. My feet, standing on sales floors
for most of my adult life, also breathed a big sigh of relief.
The beauty of our industry is not only in the facets of a stone,
but in the many job opportunities and aspects of our field. I pulled
out my loupe, held it to my eye and carefully considered my
options beyond selling jewelry from a store-front. My gaze landed
on two trusted friends, Patti Geolat and Kate Peterson, both of
whom strongly encouraged me to shift my focus to the appraisal
part of the business. They also encouraged me to add custom
design and special orders to my new business idea as a way to
keep in touch with my former retail customers.
So it was back to school for me to complete the GG I had
started 25 years prior, and once completed, I joined NAJA and
attended my first conference in Chicago. I quickly realized I didn’t
know as much as I thought. NAJA opened my eyes to a much
broader aspect of jewelry appraising and I enrolled in their course.
The education I receive at each NAJA conference continues
to enhance and expand my knowledge. Plus, the friends and
colleagues I have met make attending the conferences such a
pleasure.
Achieving the title of Certified Master Appraiser was a
major accomplishment for me and I am honored to be only the
seventh member to attain that level. It has been instrumental in
establishing my credibility and growing my appraisal business.
My jewelry career has been filled with achievements and
losses, much like anyone who has spent more than a few years in
this field. But if you hold the loupe carefully over my career you’ll
see the many facets of our industry and realize how they have
enriched my life and continue to do so.
23
