The making process of my Fall 2019 Junior Year Collection

1. The Making of...

3. Fitting Sloper
Top
-Shorten Sleeve to pinned
-Add ease in back shoulder
-Bring in back neck
Bottom
-Let out hips
-Lower back crotch
-Slim leg

5. Look 1
+
First I soaked the copper
material in viniger
Then I covered the soaked
copper with salt and let it sit
over night

6. After a night I removed the excess salt and let it sit out for the rest of the day
I then tried to use copper wire instead of thread to see if the wire would bleed onto
the fabric and dye it. I ended up using this for thread in the final garment

7. Fitting Look 1
Jacket Muslin
-Move pocket 1” to SS
-Take in back sleeve cap
slightly
-Take in 1/8” on upper
back
-Let armhole out 1/8”

8. Pant Muslin
-Add 1/4” to SS
-Bring back waist in 1/2”
-Add 1/8” to back crotch

9. Front
Back
Front
I needed to plan out
how to cut the strips
for the jacket so as to
use the material most
effectively. This took a
lot of math and stratigic
planning on illustrator.

10. I sewed each strip together by hand using a baseball type stitch. This was to add to the
handmade effect I wanted to achieve and to allow the pieces to move with the body.

11. I tested padding
the tubes of copper
to see if it would
give a better
effect than the flat
material. I decided
against this idea
because the
material became
too puffy and stiff.
The flat material
also crushed very
nicely, adding the
demension that I
was looking for.

13. I also fully lined the jacket and
put a welt pocket on either side
of the chest. This was to make
it easier to wear and to pre-
vent the copper from rubbing
against the skin.

17. Look 2
I burried a large piece of cotton canvas for a month last summer
and decided to use it this semester. The canvas naturally
decomposed in many places and lost a lot of its sturcture.

19. Fitting Look 2
Long Vest
-Slim Back
-Wider Button Openings &
Cover
-Lower Armhole

20. Fitting Look 2
Shoulder Cover
-Bring shoulder seam forward
-Extend CF by 2”
-Raise back neck 2”
-Widen sleeve hem

21. Leather Vest
-Widen all seams by 1/8”
-Lower arm-hole
-Slim shoulder strap 1” from
shoulder point
-Increatse CF overlap

23. To make the hat I first wet felted a large amount of wool down into a flat circle. I
then used the top half of a head form as the base for my hat block. By putting clay on
top, I was able to build up the shape of the crown that I wanted. After it dried, it was
still a bit to thick and unstructured, so I needle felted the hat to add in the structure
that I wanted. I also added a ribbon around the crown to maintain the shape.

25. I dyed this top with avacado pit and husk. I then layed it flat to dry, to give it the
uneven coloring.

27. I extracted the tannins in acorns by
boiling them and then letting them
soak for a couple days to deepen the
color. I then added an iron mordant
to the dye vat and soaked the entire
garment overnight.

28. Look 3
I used a variety of fibers to create the felt for the
coat: two types of wool, hemp, banana, pineapple,
ramie, nettle, and peduncle silk. I then dyed all of
them in the same vat of acorns and iron. Each took
the dye a bit different, bringing out all the small sub-
tleties of each fiber.

30. Fitting Look 3
Felt Coat
-Lower Armhole
-Take out Pockets
-Widen Sleeves
-Lengthen 4”
-Let out Back as marked

31. Broadfalls
-Raise CB
-Lower Crotch
-Lower Pocket Bags

32. I used the needle felting machine
to felt all the fibers I dyed onto a
wool felt base. I only ran each layer
of fibers through one time to keep
the material fluffy and soft. The
fibers do shed off but it has the
appearance of fur. Combined with a
thick whip stitch on each seam, the
result looks like a trapper from the
1800’s.

34. Fitting Look 4
Long Shirt
-Increase Length by 2”
-Adjust Neckline
-Lower Armhole
-Increase sleeve-cap width

35. Mantle
-Add 3” to CF
-Adjust Side Seam
-Add 2” to Side Length