Stanford Linguistics and Computer Science professor Dan Jurafsky on the history of ketchup, why chip names often have 'i's and 'e's in them, what menus are really trying to tell you, and much more.
5. Fish preservation 2000 years ago
— Mon-‐Khmer,
Tai-‐Kadai,
Hmong-‐Mien
speakers
in
Southeast
China/
Southeast
Asia
— Preserving
fish
to
last
through
dry
season
—Layer
salted
fish
in
jars
with
cooked
rice
—Wait
for
lactic
acid
fermentation
— Mentioned
in
500
CE
Chinese
ethnologies
— Still
made
by
Kam (Tai-‐speaking
tribe
in
Guangxi)
6. 200 BCE: China expands
—Han
Dynasty:
Emperor
Wu
invades
tribal
areas
of
Fujian
and
Guangdong.
—Assimilating
some
locals
and
fermented
seafoods
—Pushing
the
rest
south
7. Innovations in Japan
— 700
CE
fermented
fish
rice
è Japan
called
sushi (technically
narezushi)
— 18th century:
Use
vinegar
instead
of
lactic
fermentation
(and
eat
the
rice)
— 19th century:
eat
the
fish
fresh
8. Meanwhile, down south…
— Fish
products
made
throughout
SE
Asia
and
very
south
China
— Fujianese sailors
bring
fish
sauce
from
Vietnam
and
Cambodia
— Also
use
a
paste
made
from
red
rice
wine
lees
红糟 in
cooking
9. Southern Chinese settle (helping propagate
fish sauces) throughout SE Asia
China
Japan
S Korea
Malaysia
Vietnam
Cambodia
Thailand
Burma
Laos
Philipines
Indonesia
11. The Age of European Exploration
— 1600:
British
and
Dutch
sail
to
Asia
for
spices,
textiles,
porcelain
— The
sailors
drink
beer
and
wine
— But
both
go
sour
in
the
tropical
heat
(no
hops
yet)
— They
arrive
in
Indonesia
to
find
ethnic
Chinese
making:
12. Arrack
— The
ancestor
of
rum
Distilled
palm
wine
&
red
rice
(from
Arabic
word
for
‘sweat’)
— 1609:
British
start
buying
arrack
— 1704:
The
“common
drink”
of
Europeans
in
Asia
— Sailors
add
limes
(for
scurvy)
to
make
“punch”,
first
cocktail
13. While buying arrack, the British
picked up barrels of:
Fish
sauce
Vietnamese
nuoc mam
or
Thai
nam pla
What
was
this
fish
sauce
called
in
the
local
Chinese
dialect,
Hokkien?
“Ketchup”
ke =鲑 salted
fish
chiap =
汁 “sauce”
The
British
bring
it
home.
14. Charles Lockyer’s
1703 trip to Asia
— British
trader
in
Asia
— Ketchup
(fish
sauce)
now an
important
commodity
15.
16. Fish sauce transforms
— What
to
do
when
you
have
an
expensive
imported
luxury?
— Create
fakes!
17. Expensive imported ketchup
To
Make
KATCH-‐UP
that
will
keep
good
Twenty
Years.
Take
a
Gallon
of
strong
stale
Beer,
one
Pound
of
Anchovies
wash'd and
clean'd from
the
Guts,
half
an
Ounce
of
Mace,
half
an
Ounce
of
Cloves,
a
quarter
of
an
Ounce
of
Pepper,
three
large
Races
of
Ginger,
one
Pound
of
Eschallots,
and
one
Quart
of
flap
Mushrooms
…boil
…
strain
……
bottle
and
stop
it
very
close…This
is
thought
to
exceed
what
is
brought
from
India…
1742
18. Innovations: Jane Austen’s family
recipe for walnut ketchup, 1800
c.
1800
Take
green
walnuts
…vinegar with
a
handful
of
salt.
…
boil
….cloves,
mace,
sliced
ginger,
sliced
nutmeg,
Jamaica
peppercorns,
little
horse
radish
with
a
few
shallots.
…
bottle
it
up
…
19. Innovations: tomatoes! 1817
Tomata Catsup
Gather
a
gallon
of
fine,
red,
and
full
ripe
tomatas;
mash
them
with
one
pound
of
salt;
…add
a
quarter
of
a
pound
of
anchovies,
two
ounces
of
shallots,
and
an
ounce
of
ground
black
pepper;
boil
…
strain
…..mace…
allspice
and
ginger….
nutmeg,
….
coriander
…
will
keep
for
seven
years
21. Hidden in the name of our national sauce
— A
history
of
innovation
— Tai
tribal
fermented
fish
and
rice
— Japanese
sushi
— Vietnamese
fish
sauce
— Anchovy,
mushroom,
walnut
ketchups
— Modern
sweet
tomato
ketchup
— Creativity
as
we
borrow
and
adapt
the
food
of
our
neighbors!
22. The ketchup theory of innovation
Innovation
happens
at
interstices,
as
we
borrow
and
extend
the
ideas
of
our
neighbors
23. Innovation isn’t just for recipes
— The
innovations
of
computational
linguistics
“Noisy
Channel
Model”,
“Decoding”,
“Classification”
— Where
did
these
innovations
come
from?
24. Computational History of Science
— Work
with
David
Hall,
Chris
Manning,
Ashton
Anderson,
Daniel
McFarland,
Adam
Vogel
— “Machine
Reading”
topic
models
for
20,000
papers!
— Followed
15,000
authors
— Traced
100,000
citations
— Over
60
years
25. 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005
Rise of new
statistical
tools
Decline of
older
method The
Statistical
Revolution
1988
26. What happened in 1988?
— These
new
papers
with
new
math
— All
written
by
electrical
engineers!
—Coming
to
computer
science
conferences
— Required
by
the
conditions
of
their
grants
— Computer
science
graduate
students
borrowed
these
new
models!
— And
started
adapting
them
to
new
problems!
27. Innovation spreading
— Ideas
spread
from
Electrical
Engineering
to
Computer
Science
— As
people
met
at
conferences
— The
ideas
changed
and
modified
—Probability
Theory
—Noisy
Channel
Model
—Machine
Learning
Classifiers
—Viterbi
Decoding
28. Innovation in ketchup and
computer science
Innovation
happens
at
interstices,
as
we
borrow
and
extend
the
ideas
of
our
neighbors
29. Another innovation:
can computational linguistics
tell us something about food?
— The
language
of
food
is
everywhere!
—advertising
—menus
—restaurant
reviews
—food
names
— Let’s
use
computational
linguistic
tools
to
analyze!
30. Bourdieu’s Distinction
— Survey:
French
taste
in
the
1960s
correlated
with
class
— Working
class
had
“popular”
tastes
— the
Blue
Danube
waltz
— heavy
starchy
meals
(cassoulet)
— High
status
class
had
“refined”
tastes
— Well-‐Tempered
Clavier or
Breughel
— new
ethnic
or
health
foods
(curry,
brown
rice)
— Bourdieu’s
proposal:
— Not
about
absolute
quality
— About
distinguishing
upper
class
from
lower
class
31. Bourdieu’s Distinction
In
matters
of
taste,
more
than
anywhere
else,
all
determination
is
negation;
and
tastes
are
perhaps
first
and
foremost
distastes,
disgust
provoked
by
horror
or
visceral
intolerance
(“sick-‐making”)
of
the
tastes
of
others.
Bourdieu,
Distinction
32. Class Distinctions Reflected in Potato
Chip Advertising Language
Joshua Freedman and Dan Jurafsky2011. AuthenticityinAmerica:
Class Distinctions in Potato Chip Advertising Gastronomica 11:4, 46-54
Expensive
potato
chips:
Cheap
potato
chips:
35. Distinction in expensive chips
Unique: Because of our unique baking process…
in a class of their own
…deliciously different…
Comparative: best in America…
crunchy bite you won't find in any other chip
less fat than other leading brands…
Negation: no wiping your greasy chip hand on your jeans.
never fried, never baked…
we don’t wash out the natural potato flavor. ..
5x
more
frequent
in
expensive
chips
Every
additional
negative
word
adds
4
cents
to
the
price
per
ounce
37. Health
All
the
bags
emphasize
health
claims
healthier
0
grams
trans
fat
no
cholesterol
lowest
sodium
level
Expensive
bags
makes
health
claims
6
times
more
than
cheap
bags!
—No
bag
has
trans
fats
—It’s
the
expensive
bags
that
say
so
38. Linguistics of advertising and class
Implicit
linguistic
markers
of
class
The
role
of
health
Attitudes
toward
other
classes
reflected
in
linguistic
negation
and
comparison
39. Dan
Jurafsky,
Victor
Chahuneau,
Bryan
R.
Routledge,
and
Noah
A
Smith.
2015
ms. Linguistic
Markers
of
Price
and
Status
in
Restaurant
Menus
Menus are just another form of advertising
40. Advertising language on menus
Online
menus
from
6562
restaurants
650,000
menu
items
5,000,000
words
How
do
menus
linguistically
encode
economic
values?
41. Expensive menus are terse
Middle-‐priced:
crispy, golden
brown
Belgian
waffle
with
fresh fruit
Expensive:
short
menus,
short
descriptions,
few
adjectives
42. Middle-priced menus are long
Middle-‐priced
menu:
“crispy, golden
brown
Belgian
waffle
with
fresh
fruit”
Expensive
menus
are
short:
short
menus,
short
descriptions,
few
adjectives
43. Why Expensive Menus are short
— Why
say
food
is
“fresh”?
—Because
Grice
—Presumably
you
need
to
know
it’s
fresh
— Why
would
you
need
to
know?
—Because
you
aren’t
sure
if
it’s
fresh
— Expensive
restaurants
want
you
to
be
sure
—I
say
nothing
so
you
assume food
is
fresh
44. Why Middle Priced Menus are long
Feltovich,
Nick,
Rick
Harbaugh,
and
Ted
To
(2002).
Too
cool
for
school?
Signalling and
countersignalling.
RAND
Journal
of
Economics
Vol.
33,
No.
4,
Winter
2002
pp.
630–649H.
Grice,
Paul
(1975).
"Logic
and
conversation".
In
Cole,
P.;
Morgan,
J.
Syntax
and
semantics.
3:
Speech
acts.
New
York:
Academic
Press.
pp.
41–58.
— Game
theoretic
model
— Assume
3
class:
high,
mid,
low,
— And
assume
other
noisy
cues
to
quality
(location,
expensive,
décor)
— Mid
signals
to
show
isn’t
low
— High
countersignals
(doesn’t
signal)
to
show
isn’t
mid
45. Grice in action: real on menus
— $
— chocolate
chip
pancakes
served
with
real
whipped
cream
— home
made
meatloaf
served
with
real
mashed
potatoes
chicken
cutlet:
melted
swiss cheese
on
a
roll
with
lettuce,
tomato,
russian dressing
and
real
bacon
bits
— $$
— californiaroll:
real
crab and
avocado
— blueberry
whole
grain
pancakes
with
real
maple
syrup
no
$$$
or
$$$$
46. Aside: semantics and the history of
artificial food
From
the
New
York
Public
Library’s
Buttolph collection:
1990s: real
bacon
(not
Bacon
Bits).
1970/80s:
real
whipped
cream
(not
Cool
Whip)
real
sour
cream
(not
Imo).
1960s: real
butter
(not
margarine).
1930/40s:
genuine
calves
liver.
1900:
real
German
beer
and
real
turtle
(not
ale
or
mock
turtle)
47. What do fancy restaurants do
instead?
— Use
rare
words
—tonnarelli,
bastilla,
persillade
— Use
long
words:
—decaffeinated,
accompaniments,
complements,
exquisitely
— cheap
restaurants:
—decaf not
decaffeinated,
sides not
accompaniments.
48. What do fancy restaurants do?
Each
additional
average
letter
=
18
cents
49. Expensive restaurant
menu:
c a v i a r
( c r u ) g o l d e n e y e s n a p p e r
a m b e r j a c k
h e r r i n g
a b a l o n e
t r o u t r o e
s e a u r c h i n
c a r d o o n
b r a s s i c a s
t o f f e e
w o o d p i g e o n
w i n t e r c i t r u s
b l a c k w a l n u t
i c e c r e a m
t e a
53. Dan
Jurafsky,
Victor
Chahuneau,
Bryan
R.
Routledge,
and
Noah
A.
Smith.
2014.
Narrative
framing
of
consumer
sentiment
in
online
restaurant
reviews.
First
Monday
19:4
Framing in restaurant reviews
The
bartender...
absolutely
horrible...
we
waited
10
min
before
we
even
got
her
attention...
and
then
we
had
to
wait
45
-‐ FORTY
FIVE!
-‐ minutes
for
our
entrees…
stalk
the
waitress
to
get
the
cheque…
she
didn't
make
eye
contact
or
even
break
her
stride
to
wait
for
a
response
900,000
online
reviews
54. Language of bad reviews?
— Negative
sentiment
language
horrible
awful
terrible
bad
disgusting
— Past
tense
narratives
about
people
waited,
didn’t,
was
he,
she,
his,
her,
manager,
customer,
waitress,
waiter,
management,
— Frequent
mentions
of
we
and us
...
we were
ignored
until
we flagged
down
one
waiter
to
go
get
our waitress
…
55. Other narratives with this language
A
genre
using:
Past
tense,
we/us,
negative,
people
narratives
Texts
written
by
people
suffering
trauma
— James
Pennebaker lab
— Blog
posts
after
9-‐11
— Student
writings
after
campus
tragedies
— Use
of
“we”:
seeking
solace
in
community
1-‐star
reviews
are
trauma
narratives!
— The
lesson
of
reviews:
It’s
all
about
personal
interaction
57. Why the drug metaphor?
— Used
for junk
foods:
chicken
wings,
french fries,
pizza,
chocolate
—Assuage
the
guilt
—It’s
not
my
fault,
I
had
no
control,
the
cupcake
made
me
eat
it
— Women
more
likely
to
use
the
metaphor
of
drugs
than
men
— Consistent
with
other
research:
women
are
more
pressured
to
conform
to
healthy
eating
and
mention
food
cravings
(Rozin et
al.
1991,
inter
alia)
58. The linguistics of food requests
Question:
What
language
do
people
use
when
making
successful
requests?
Problem:
it
depends
on
the
request
Solution:
control
for
the
request
21,000
requests
for
pizza
on
“Random
Acts
of
Pizza”
Reddit.
TimAlthoff, Cristian Danescu-Niculescu-Mizil, Dan Jurafsky. 2014. How toAsk for a
Favor:A Case Study on the Success of Altruistic Requests.AAAI ICWSM 2014
59. “My gf and I have hit some hard times with her losing her job
and then unemploymentas well for being physically unable to
perform her job due to various hand injuries as a server in a
restaurant. She is currently petitioning to have
unemployment reinstated due to medical reasons for being
unable to perform her job, but until then things are really
tight andANYTHING would help us out right now.
I [...] would certainly return the favor again when I am able
to reciprocate.“
FACTORS (1)
59
Evidentiality: Urgent requests are met
more frequently than non-urgent requests
(Yinon and Dovrat 1987; Shotland and Stebbins 1983;
Colaizzi,Williams, and Kayson 1984; Gore,Tobiasen, and
Kayson 1997)
Length: Long requests demonstrate extra
effort and can provide more evidence
(Lettice et al. 2012)
Reciprocity: Promises to return the favor
(Wilke and Lanzetta 1970;Willer et al. 2013; Gray,Ward, and
Norton 2012; Plickert,Côté, andWellman 2007)Status:People of high status (e.g. occupation or
wealth) receive help more often.
(Solomon and Herman 1977; Goodman and Gareis 1993)
60. Who gets pizza?
Predictable
from
the
language!
Most
important
factor:
Pro-‐social
behavior
—Generalized
Reciprocity
Promising
to
Pay
it
Forward
—Saying
thank
you
—Having
karma
in
community
60
61. Computing the Language of Food
The
language
of
menus
—economics
of
“modest”
advertising
—economics
as
a
fruitful
domain
for
language
The
language
of
reviews
and
requests
—social
psychology
of
language
—the
linguistic
signs
of
trauma
—our
complex
attitudes
toward
food
and
body
—the
rewards
of
pro-‐social
behavior/language
62. Let’s go back even further in time
— What
can
the
language
of
food
tell
us
about
the
origins
of
language?
63. Conventionalism vs. Naturalism
Conventionalism:
What’s
in
a
name?
that
which
we
call
a
rose
By
any
other
name
would
smell
as
sweet
Shakespeare,
Romeo
and
Juliet
Naturalism:
There
is
an
“inherently
correct”
name
for
everything
for
“both
Greeks
and
barbarians.”
Plato,
Cratylus
64. Sound Symbolism
— A
version
of
naturalism
— Suggests
that
certain
sounds
naturally
are
associated
with
certain
meanings
65. Sound symbolism in vowels
— Across
many
languages
— Front
vowels
used
for
little
things
—little,
itsy
bitsy,
teeny
weeny
—French
petit,
Spanish
-‐ito,
Italian
-‐ino
— Back
vowels
used
for
big
things
—huge,
humongous,
large
—French
grande,
Italian
–one
66. Do food names reflect sound symbolism?
— Hypothesis:
— Cracker
names
will
use
front
vowels
— small,
light,
delicate
— Ice
cream
names
will
use
back
vowels
— rich,
heavy,
solid
— Dataset:
— 592
US
cracker
brands
from
a
dieting
website
— 81
ice
cream
flavors
sold
by
Haagen Dazs/Ben
&
Jerry’s
70. One standard explanation
— Front
vowels
have
high
pitched
resonance
— Back
vowels
have
low
pitched
resonance
— High
pitches
are
made
by
small,
tiny,
animals
— Low
pitches
are
made
by
large
animals.
— We
instinctively
associate
pitch
with
size.
71. Evolutionary Implications:
the origins of the smile
— Smiles
are
made
by
pulling
back
corners
of
mouth
—front
vowel
—cheese!
—makes
us
sound
smaller
— Phonetician
John
Ohala suggests
the
smile
evolved
in
hominids
(or
earlier)
as
an
appeasement
gesture
—don’t
hurt
little
old
me
72. Lessons from the Language of Food
— Innovation in
recipes—like
other
technologies—comes
from
boundaries
—This
lesson
can
be
right
in
their
names!
— Economics and
social
class
are
visible
in
every
word
on
the
menu
— Human
nature
is
reflected
in
our
reviews
— Distancing
ourselves
from
guilty
pleasures
— Sensitivity
to
personal
interactions
— Echoes
of
the
origins
of
language
are
still
visible
on
every
package
of
crackers.