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THE THREE AGES
OF BEER
Drinking in Brussels from the
19th century to 2018
BRUSSELS
...This promised land of
strong beers and girls,
this Chanaan of orgies
and benders
 - JK Huysman
Faro, synonym for piss!
 - Charles Baudelaire
OVERVIEW
Beer in 19th Century Brussels
What they drank
Who brewed it
Where it was drunk
Beer in the 20th Century
Enter Geuze
Trends in brewing
The inexorable decline of brewing
Foreign influence
The rise and fall of Wielemans
The durability of Cantillon
Beer in the 21st Century
Resurrection - Brasserie de la Senne
Who brewed it
Where it was drunk
BEER IN 19TH CENTURY BRUSSELS
Lambic - unblended jonge lambiek "refreshing thanks to its large
quantity of carbonic acid"
Lambic Doux - sweetened, unblended lambic
Faro - a blend, made usually at the cafe, of equal parts lambic and
meerts, sweetened with candy sugar, brown sugar, or cane molasses
Biere de Mars/Meerts - Second runnings of lambic brew,
served as table beer
Half en half - half lambic, half faro
Brune - brewed in the summer, amber colour, "full-bodied and
vinous, strong without being heady, pleasant to the eye and taste,
particularly liked by 'those who do not like the acidity of faro'"
BREWERIES IN THE 19TH
CENTURY
What it looked like
Before/after Ancien Regime
The power of the guilds - a
closed shop from father to son
Rental brewers
Steady growth with the
population
Brewers, blenders, and
barmen 
ST GERY - CENTRE OF
BREWING
Source - Patrick Goderis/Bières et brasseries bruxelloises
MIGRATION AND
COMPETITION
Pollution
Vaulting of the
Senne, 1866
Taxation
Competition from
abroad
Industrialisation
BEER IN BRUSSELS, 1883
THE CABARET
Nothing is more curious than these little restaurants: almost all of them extend into a
narrow casing under a low ceiling, painted with smoke, with a corner for the counter;
the largest would hold barely thirty people… No coquetry of crockery or silverware
either; the plates are placed in front of you, with pewter cutlery on a raspy napkin; the
public is considered by the caterer as a machine that works and it is not necessary to
attract refinements.
 - Camille Lemonnier 1888
THE ESTAMINET
...Estaminet, which is used to designate houses where one consume especially beer. (...)
Here, a rudimentary simplicity reigns: on the walls, yellow and blue notarial sales
posters for any ornament, sometimes cages where canaries, an enameled dial like a big
eye, or an old sheath carved clock. Obviously, any distraction that could disturb the
customer in the tasting of the fermented liquid is discarded as detrimental to the
gravity of this occupation
 - Camille Lemonnier 1888
THE GRAND CAFE
THE SUBURBS
THE KALIBABOU
Then, on 31 December, the tapper donated hot lambic for
their customers, where the fat innkeeper got fifty cents of
tip - the drinking money for the whole year! That lambic,
you might know, was prepared with eggs and rhum, and this
mixture was called 'Kalibabou'. And it was not even
necessary to drink a lot of glasses to 'cross the line'
 - Gazet van Brussel, 1916
HERE COMES THE COMPETITION
ENTER LAMBIC GUEUSE
BREWERIES IN THE 20TH
CENTURY
What it looked like
Expansion in the
periphery
Golden era of lager
beers
Cut-throat competition
The war
Consolidation and
collapse
INDUSTRIAL BREWING ARRIVES
INDUSTRIAL BREWING ARRIVES
WIELEMANS - THE RISE AND FALL
From Nieuwland to
Vorst
Infrastructure and
expansion
"Europe's largest brew
hall" 
Post-war challenges
Here comes Artois
The end of pils
WIELEMANS - THE RISE AND FALL
CTS SCOTCH
Classic 20th century
style - British is best
Crowned Tree Scotch
Launched in 1926,
successor to CTS Stout
(1921)
Now in the AB Inbev
stable
WHAT WERE THEY BREWING?
Atlas
THE DOMINOES FALL
Wielemans
Koekelberg
BrasseriesUnies
Royalaeken/
Caulier
BelleVue
Marine-Marly
Lannoy
Vossen(MortSubite
DenBaert1946
1952
1981
1988
1990
1969
1970
1959
1971
1975
1954
1963
Leopold
Vandenheuvel
L'Etoile
CANTILLON - THE GREAT
SURVIVOR
1900 - blendery
1937 - brewing begins
WWII intervenes
Business declines
Sweet and low
Museum is opened
Business booming
(eventually)
BREWERIES IN
THE 21ST CENTURY
What it looks like
Phoenix from the flames
Impact of De La Senne
Craft is king
International influence -
US & UK
Beer-focused venues
mushrooming
BRASSERIE DE LA
SENNE - THE OG
BREWERY
Progenitors of the new beer
renaissance
THE NEW UPSTARTS - ECHOES
OF PAST
International impact - UK craft
scene
Opening their own venues
Setting up on the edge of town
Bar scene developing in
tandem - latest evolution of
Brussels cafe culture
Return of old styles?
Cantillon endures
THANK YOU
Questions?
B E E R C I T Y . B R U S S E L S
B R U S S E L S B E E R C I T Y @ B R U B E E R C I T Y

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The three ages of beer

  • 1. THE THREE AGES OF BEER Drinking in Brussels from the 19th century to 2018
  • 2. BRUSSELS ...This promised land of strong beers and girls, this Chanaan of orgies and benders  - JK Huysman Faro, synonym for piss!  - Charles Baudelaire
  • 3. OVERVIEW Beer in 19th Century Brussels What they drank Who brewed it Where it was drunk Beer in the 20th Century Enter Geuze Trends in brewing The inexorable decline of brewing Foreign influence The rise and fall of Wielemans The durability of Cantillon Beer in the 21st Century Resurrection - Brasserie de la Senne Who brewed it Where it was drunk
  • 4. BEER IN 19TH CENTURY BRUSSELS Lambic - unblended jonge lambiek "refreshing thanks to its large quantity of carbonic acid" Lambic Doux - sweetened, unblended lambic Faro - a blend, made usually at the cafe, of equal parts lambic and meerts, sweetened with candy sugar, brown sugar, or cane molasses Biere de Mars/Meerts - Second runnings of lambic brew, served as table beer Half en half - half lambic, half faro Brune - brewed in the summer, amber colour, "full-bodied and vinous, strong without being heady, pleasant to the eye and taste, particularly liked by 'those who do not like the acidity of faro'"
  • 5. BREWERIES IN THE 19TH CENTURY What it looked like Before/after Ancien Regime The power of the guilds - a closed shop from father to son Rental brewers Steady growth with the population Brewers, blenders, and barmen 
  • 6. ST GERY - CENTRE OF BREWING
  • 7. Source - Patrick Goderis/Bières et brasseries bruxelloises
  • 8. MIGRATION AND COMPETITION Pollution Vaulting of the Senne, 1866 Taxation Competition from abroad Industrialisation
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  • 11. THE CABARET Nothing is more curious than these little restaurants: almost all of them extend into a narrow casing under a low ceiling, painted with smoke, with a corner for the counter; the largest would hold barely thirty people… No coquetry of crockery or silverware either; the plates are placed in front of you, with pewter cutlery on a raspy napkin; the public is considered by the caterer as a machine that works and it is not necessary to attract refinements.  - Camille Lemonnier 1888
  • 12. THE ESTAMINET ...Estaminet, which is used to designate houses where one consume especially beer. (...) Here, a rudimentary simplicity reigns: on the walls, yellow and blue notarial sales posters for any ornament, sometimes cages where canaries, an enameled dial like a big eye, or an old sheath carved clock. Obviously, any distraction that could disturb the customer in the tasting of the fermented liquid is discarded as detrimental to the gravity of this occupation  - Camille Lemonnier 1888
  • 15. THE KALIBABOU Then, on 31 December, the tapper donated hot lambic for their customers, where the fat innkeeper got fifty cents of tip - the drinking money for the whole year! That lambic, you might know, was prepared with eggs and rhum, and this mixture was called 'Kalibabou'. And it was not even necessary to drink a lot of glasses to 'cross the line'  - Gazet van Brussel, 1916
  • 16. HERE COMES THE COMPETITION
  • 18. BREWERIES IN THE 20TH CENTURY What it looked like Expansion in the periphery Golden era of lager beers Cut-throat competition The war Consolidation and collapse
  • 21. WIELEMANS - THE RISE AND FALL From Nieuwland to Vorst Infrastructure and expansion "Europe's largest brew hall"  Post-war challenges Here comes Artois The end of pils
  • 22. WIELEMANS - THE RISE AND FALL
  • 23. CTS SCOTCH Classic 20th century style - British is best Crowned Tree Scotch Launched in 1926, successor to CTS Stout (1921) Now in the AB Inbev stable
  • 24. WHAT WERE THEY BREWING?
  • 26. CANTILLON - THE GREAT SURVIVOR 1900 - blendery 1937 - brewing begins WWII intervenes Business declines Sweet and low Museum is opened Business booming (eventually)
  • 27. BREWERIES IN THE 21ST CENTURY What it looks like Phoenix from the flames Impact of De La Senne Craft is king International influence - US & UK Beer-focused venues mushrooming
  • 28. BRASSERIE DE LA SENNE - THE OG BREWERY Progenitors of the new beer renaissance
  • 29. THE NEW UPSTARTS - ECHOES OF PAST International impact - UK craft scene Opening their own venues Setting up on the edge of town Bar scene developing in tandem - latest evolution of Brussels cafe culture Return of old styles? Cantillon endures
  • 30. THANK YOU Questions? B E E R C I T Y . B R U S S E L S B R U S S E L S B E E R C I T Y @ B R U B E E R C I T Y