1. Kristina and Jason Kolaczkowski

2. 2012 HAMS
Graduation
Climbing Team
(Group 1)
Left to right: Kelly, Dave,
Dana, Aaron, Kristina, Jill,
Jason, Cindy, Sharon, Chad,
Derek and Joel

3. Overview
 What did we pack? (both)
 Philosophy of Climbing Light (KK)
 Defining Necessary (KK)
 Know Your System (JK)
 Tradeoffs with Comfort
 Physical Comfort (KK)
 Risk and Contingency Planning (JK)
 Allocation of Group Gear (JK)
 By the Numbers – Gear Weight Comparisons (both)

4. What did we pack?
 Packing for Rainier by the “Ten Essential Systems”…
plus one.
 Packing for the airline

5. Philosophy of Climbing Light
 Andrew Skurka
 Comfort hiking versus
camping
 Knowledge doesn’t
weigh anything
 Don’t pack out of fear
 Gear multi-functional
 Ed Viesters
 Alpine ascent style of
climbing
 Team-based systems

6. Define Necessary
 You want me to carry 6
oz of bug spray?!?
 Clothing
 Sleep System
 Technical Gear
 Food and Hydration
 First Aid

7. Know Your System
 “Knowledge doesn’t weigh anything”
 Revise and improve your system as
you go.
 What are your necessary items versus
nice to have items versus luxury
items?
 Don’t climb light for the first time on
Rainier.
Jason 47 lbs
(carrying boots and rope)

8. Tradeoffs with Comfort: Physical
 Decide how and when
Kristina:
Comfortable Hiking
(32 lbs)
you are willing to be
uncomfortable
 Hiking
 Camping
Kelly:
Comfortable Camping
(67 lbs)

9. Tradeoffs with Comfort: Risk
 Dealing with Risk
 Contingency Planning
and Probability: What if
you get caught in a
whiteout on Grey’s and
Torrey’s in August?
 Facts versus myths
 Don’t overly “customize”

10. Allocation of Group Gear
 Equal division of all group gear
 Best when climbers are of similar
size
 When climbers are not
comfortable identifying weight
 Proportional allocation based on
body weight
 When there is wide diversity in
the size of climbers
 Distribution that will best support
the success of the team
 Position on the rope; special skills
 Diversity in the fitness of the
climbing team
 A team member is having a bad
climbing day
Rope Team + our Fearless Leader (Sharon right)

11. By the Numbers
Item: 6' Sleeping Bags
Mountain Hardware 15
Mountain Hardware 0
Western Mountaineering 10 degree
Western Mountaineering 0 degree
Marmot 15 degree
Marmot 0 degree
Ounces
31
46
36
48
30
44
Item: Hoodless Down Jackets
Pategonia Down Sweater
Pategonia Rubicon
North Face Thunder Micro Down
North Face Nuptse 2
Eddie Bauer Downlight Sweater
Eddie Bauer Mountain Guide Down
Ounces
11
36
14
24
13
22
Item: 2 Person Tents
North Face EV2
North Face Trango 2
Bibler Eldorado
Bibler Fitzroy
Hilleberg Jannu
Hilleberg Tarra
Ounces
82
157
81
113
102
123
Item: 60m Ropes
Petzl Nomad 9.8mm
Petzl Fuse 9.4mm
Mammut Infinity 9.5mm
Mammut Serenity 8.9mm
Beal Diablo 9.8mm
Beal Joker 9.1mm
Ounces
133.3
118.5
122.8
110.1
129.1
91.0

12. Conclusion
 You must be comfortable with the amount of gear that you are carrying
 Knowledge is power… and knowledge is weightless
 Know how to use your gear in multiple ways
 Know the weight of your gear
 Experiment with systems
 Know the route, the conditions, and the needs those dictate
 Do not skimp on weight at the risk of the team
 Find your balance point between comfort for travel and for camp
 Set expectations for group gear ahead of time and in a way that
supports you goals
 Light weight isn’t a set of tricks, it’s a consistent, mental approach
considering your personal preference for trade-offs

13. Resources

14. Questions?