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1. Ayurveda: A hidden treasure for Beauty Industry
L’Oreal Innovation Runway, Singapore Runaway challenge- 2018
Category: Performance Material
Submitted by
Akanksha Verma
Rachna, Bhopal, MP, India
2. Ayurveda - the ancient treasure of Skin and body care
Beauty has a multidimensional definition across cultures, countries, genders, and ages. Since ancient
times, people are cautious about how they look. Grooming products like Kajal, rose water, foundation,
hair- dye, face powder etc were used by ladies to enhance their beauty.
In the western world - black is considered sexy, but many Asian countries are still obsessed with
white skin tone. The voluptuous figure, long nose, high cheekbone or slim glass figure - beauty norms
keep changing as we cross continents. But what remains normal across all cultures is the quality of
your hair, skin, and body. Your health is directly proportional to the glow or radiance of your beauty.
With the passage of time and scientific discoveries made has led people to consume more beauty
enhancing ingredients to maintain their looks.
As per Maslow’s hierarchy - the physiological need is the first and most important factor for humans
to build a higher self-esteem and to progress to next higher level on the chart. A person’s looks have a
social, psychological, emotional and economic impact on his overall personality.
Apart from healthy food, enough water, routine body care is most essential for a healthy looking skin.
In today’s time when people are prone to hectic and poor lifestyle, pollution, climate change, work
pressure leading to stress, poor diet and society’s unnecessary beauty standards drives people
ultimately to exhaustion.
Indian Cosmetic Industry
In a country where the population pie chart is over 1.35 billion, only a slice of the population over 30
percent is buying cosmetic products. However, the potential consumption capacity and pocket to
spend are equally large. The highest selling cosmetic cream in India- “Fair & Lovely” is sold at even
Rs. 5 rupees sachet. Ingredients keep changing from anti-aging to sun protection and aryuvedic but
the core message or remain the same - one shade lighter complexion!
One of its kinds comes with a complexion meter as well. This shows how the price is not the real
determinant of the product success.
People who were baby boomers trust only Ayurveda and promote its usage to the next generation as
well. Being a close knitted culture, any Indian child while taking their first decision will seek the
advice from their parents. This leads to our third category of buyers-‘Millennial’. India has the largest
breed of the young population in the world- who has confused expectations. They want healthy and
glowing skin at a cost of minimum chemicals but still will not like to associate with the word
‘Ayurveda.
Here if any MNC which holds a credible brand name in the market and can rightly combine- Fairness,
organic and natural substance with modern appeal -they can win the Indian market.
India is the home to highest educated millennial who increasing depend on more nature based beauty
products yet with a modern appeal, something like body shop, dove etc.
Importance of Ayurveda
3. Our mind-body balance is shattered. Even application of the costliest cream, chemical or surgery can
only bring temporary glow which fades away with time and you are trapped in forever repeat mode.
How long that artificially acquired radiance will last?
As consumers, we are drifting away from Mother Nature and its organic well being. In many cultures
around the world- Egypt, Africa, Asia- India, China, Japan- the ancient methods of skin rejuvenation
are widely practiced and has been profoundly successful.
Equivalent to Chinese culture, India has the treasure of Ayurveda which dates back over 2000 years
which discussed the interconnection between people, health, and the universe.
Three ancient books were written in Sanskrit - Charak Samhita, Sushruta Samhita, and Astanga
Hridaya which has defined Ayurveda as the science of living a long healthy life.
Believed to be as one of the oldest system of medicine in the world- Under Ayurveda, Mother Nature
or Prakriti nurtures our body by correcting our inner life forces with changing external environment.
There are three constituent of our body-
• Vata
• Pita
• Kafa
Pitta is mainly responsible for colour texture and temperature of our skin as well as its lustre and
glow. Disharmonizing between the three elements leads to ailments which can be restored by using
naturally occurring substances like plants, herbs, minerals etc found in nature.
Therefore, I chose to present ayurvedic herbs as face pack/body pack/hair pack ingredients under
the category of “Performance Material” which is organic in nature and its usage can impact
hugely on all types of skin tones.
After studying the various skin- types which are predominantly of two types- oily, dry and normal.
Many natural herbs are used in Ayurveda for balancing the pita and restoring the harmony between an
individual’s natural Prakriti (body source).
4. Panch karma or the five steps of detoxification are generally practiced by Asian women to maintain
their skin Ph level, colour etc. They are the combination of beauty treatments like bleaching, cleaning,
exfoliating, steaming, toning, moisturizing, use of antiseptic and face packs.
One can mix many of below-mentioned herbs in equal proportion for skin rejuvenation.
1. Ashwagandha (cleaning, moisturizing)
Withania somniferous or India ginseng is used as an adaptogenic herb, which means it, is used to help
the body resist physiological and psychological stress. It stimulates DHEA, which is a precursor to
both testosterone and estrogens which in turn stimulates the production of natural skin oils. It is a rich
source of antioxidants, anti-stress and immunomodulatory effects leading to a youthful state of mental
and physical well being.
• Antioxidant – Studies show that Ashwagandha is a very effective antioxidant. They help improve
the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and dark spots.
• Cleansing - Novel compounds in ashwagandha is known as “withanolides” helps to cleanse dirt
and impurities by preventing clogged pores.
• Moisturizing: In Ayurvedic medicine, ashwagandha is often prescribed for dry, rough skin.
• Usage: Can be used in form of powdered paste mixed with milk/oil/water
2. Turmeric (cleaning, skin lightening, anti-septic skin rejuvenation)
Scientifically known as Curcumin (C21H20O6). It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and cancer
chemo preventive properties. Turmeric reduces oxidative damage and improves cognitive functions
related to the aging process. It induces antioxidant effects by modulating the pathway and reduces
genomic instability events. Hair removal, radiant skin, wrinkle reducer, acne and blackheads all are
sure results of it. Turmeric contains calcium, Vitamin B6, Potassium, Vitamin C and Magnesium
which helps to build collagen and maintain the tautness as well as elasticity of the skin. It keeps the
skin moisturized and healthy and helps in new cell skin formation.
Usage: Can be used with honey or any of below-mentioned herbs, lemon or Amla (vitamin c) as an
antiseptic and skin lightening formula.
3. Brahmi (skin lightening, hair loss and growth and skin regeneration)
Bacopa monnieri is not only used for the treatment of a number of nervous system disorders such as
insomnia, anxiety, enhancing memory and epilepsy, but also used for enhancing skin tone. It reduces
pimple acne marks; it releases dopamine by reducing the free radicals. It reduces stress and leaves the
skin a shade lighter. The presence of antioxidants in the Ayurvedic herb help to dispel toxins from the
body, especially from the epithelium layer thus improves skin complexion and stimulates skin cell
regeneration.
Brahmi for hair loss
Applying this oil on the scalp is good for strengthening the hair follicles. Massaging with this oil is
beneficial in checking dandruff, itchiness, the formation of split ends and flakes.
4. Manjistha (toning, exfoliating)
5. Manjistha keeps the skin glowing, removes pimples, freckles and discoloration. When externally used
as a paste either alone or with honey, Manjistha helps heal inflammation or renders a smooth and an
even tone to the skin. It’s anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial nature means that it is also used to treat
various common skin conditions including acne, psoriasis, and eczema.
5. Papaya- (toning and skin whitening) is rich in Vitamin C, vitamin E and antioxidant and phyto-
nutrient like beta-carotene which helps to prevent your skin from free radical damage.
Usage: Can be applied with honey and for dry skin.
6. Cucumber- toning and tan removal contains biotin with Vitamin-A, B, and potassium useful for
skin whitening.
Usage: cucumber and amla juice or lemon juice can be used as tonner at night for skin lightening.
7. Tomato - bleaching and anti-tanning
The juice of tomato contains a high percentage of nutrients that are beneficial for the skin. They
include vitamin A, vitamin C, lycopene, and proteins. Lycopene is basically a carotenoid, which
counteracts the action of free radicals in the body. This removes blackheads, cures skin urination,
tightens pore and makes your skin a tone lighter.
Usage; it is a bleaching agent for the face.
8. Aloe vera (cleansing, toning and tan removal)
It contains salicylic acids vitamin b1 and vitamin b2, vitamin E and pro-vitamin A.
Usage: Can be applied directly on the skin for miniaturization.
9. Multani mitti (cooling effect)
It is a rich source of minerals like silica, magnesium, calcium etc. It is also a great source to absorb
excess oil from the face and body.
Usage: It is used as face-pack with rose water, honey (in case of dry skin) and lemon for cooling
effect on the face.
10. Lodhra (skin tightening and anti -septic)
Lodhra can also be applied to the skin to help treat rashes, insect bites, and stings. Its soothing anti-
inflammatory properties can help relieve any irritation while its antibacterial actions can help prevent
infection from taking a hold. It is also an astringent in nature which helps to tighten the skin and get
rid of scars, wrinkles and other blemishes.
11. Vacha- (anti -stress and moisturizing)
Scientifically, known names are as Acores calamus. It contains essential oils like asarone, calemen,
calameon. This gives a moisturizing effect on the skin. Vacha as a medicine, it has been used since
the time of Hippocrates. For skincare, the extract of Vacha, lactose is used in making bath
preparation. This preparation gives a moisturizing effect on the skin. When used with sesame oil it
acts as anti-stress buster with aromatic effect.
6. 12. Terminalia Arjuna (anti-aging and remove blemishes)
Arjuna bark or Terminalia Arjuna has an innovative active ingredient that exerts versatile anti-aging
properties. It improves the epidermal barrier function and induces collagen production. It improves
skin tone, reduced scaliness and led to significantly improved skin elasticity. Also, increases in blood
micro flow and skin sebum content, as well as improved skin thickness/echogenicity, were noted on
the postmenopausal skin, resulting in a visible reduction of sagging skin.
13. Tulsi (hairball, dandruff, anti-aging)
Anti-aging, blemish free, the cure for skin, dandruff, infection, hair fall, black head, anti-aging all are
skin problems can be solved by using basil leaves as they contain oxidants, antiseptic and anti-
inflammatory properties.
Usage
• We can use any of the above herbs in form of power, liquids, and tablets.
• For external usage of the above one can make a paste of it and use it by combining with other
product like oil, water, ghee, lemon or orange peel extract as per one’s skin suitability.
Examples of making the Face packs:
1. Manjistha +Lodhra+ Arjuna+vacha+ Multani Mitti+ Milk/rose water+ lemon
One Part-Manjistha
One part- Arjun-powder
Half part- Vaccha
Four drops of lemon
3 and a half part - Multani Mitti
Rose water/Milk- 5 parts can be used to make a watery paste (not flowing).
This mask can be kept on the face for 15-20 minutes, remove the pasting room the face using cold
water.
2. Lemon, Tulsi and cucumber juice at night, one part each.
3. Ashwagandha powder + lemon drops+ milk or water+ Vitamin E capsule
4. Brahmi powder+ oil/water+ orange peel powder+ water
5. Manjistha + sandalwood powder+ rose petal powder+ orange peel powder, water and curd
Aryuveda not only accentuates our body but also calms our minds triggering the release of dopamine
hormones which in turn decreases the cortisol (stress) level in our bodies. At an average usage of
these herbs twice a month can bring a huge difference to the skin without any chemical side effects.
7. About the NGO -
Rachna stands for “Rural advancement through community homogenization” and “National
Awareness organization”. Registered Under “Society Registration Act 1860”- Rachna is involved in
providing livelihood programs to women in villages. Based out in Shivpuri, Madhya Pradesh, India,
Local tribal women excels in local knowledge of herbs and roots which they use to make cosmetic
products sellable in trade fairs, spas and salons. The above shared ideas on face packs are been
developed and sold at various trade shows and exhibitions.
Link for reference
National Centre for Biotechnology Information
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOa3fGdMNMY
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQMskA5rS-SiEfTrr1uD7Tg