Sop cut com mukluk1. 至美鞋业
绒面革经典长筒靴标准制作流程
SOP of Tall Suede Mukluks
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核准: 审核: 制表:Xiao Ching
2. Cutting and Skiving裁断
客户:Manitobah 鞋型号:Tall Suede Mukluk 削边
部分Parts L5 L6 L7 L8 L9 L10 L11 周边削5毫米skiving 5mm on edge.
1 鞋面 Vamp — — — — — — — 上边削5毫米skiving 5mm on top.
2 鞋身 Mudguard — — — — — — —
3 鞋身里 Mudguard lining — — — — — — —
4 包边 Vamp trim. — — 上边削5毫米 skiving 5mm on top.
5 后衬 Counter — — — — — — —
6 后套 Counter overlay — — — — — — —
7 鞋筒饰品Triangle patch —
8 鞋口Top collar — 上边和两边削5毫米 skiving 5mm.
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
3. Cutting and Skiving裁断
客户:Manitobah 鞋型号:Tall Suede Mukluk
部分Parts L5 L6 L7 L8 L9 L10 L11
9 兔皮筒子 Fur 17.5" x 9.5" 18.75 " x9.5 "
10 腿部内衬boot shaft lining — — — — — — —
11 中底 insole — — — — — — —
12 中底丽心布 insole backer — — — — — — —
13 中底羊毛垫 shearing — — — — — — —
14 大底填腹 outsole filler — — — — — — —
15
16
9 10 11 12
13 14
4. Preparing process
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鞋筒饰片发外绣珠 Beading. 3.鞋面发外绣珠 Vamp Beading. 发外回厂(兔毛球)
Making fur ball with lace
必须要直并且紧 必须要直并且紧 毛球必须要缝紧,鞋带不能被拉出
Must be tight and straight Must be tight and straight The ball must be seaming tight
Follow the pattern as requested The lace can't pull out so easy
在避开接缝的地方,前后中心点做4个
Fur shaft 兔毛筒子 小凹齿,并在正面(选兔毛品质最好面)
下端的齿旁边做记号(黑色做白色,其
他颜色做黑色)
Must make 4 notches on center of front
and back side, and the front side
should be best quality and need mark
at the bottom notch ( make white
marker on black fur and black marker
on grey and brown fur)
补强必须要贴紧,合缝不能太宰和脱线
Backing can't be peeling off
Seaming can't be loose and so narrow
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5. Sewing process 1
Processes Needle Thread type Sewing edge SPI Page:5
针型号 线型 边距 针距 备注
1 鞋身前后反接 Foot leather seaming and hammering 圆头针 210D/3 3MM 1英寸9针 平车
2 鞋身内里前后反接 Foot lining seaming 圆头针 210D/3 3MM 1英寸9针 平车
3 鞋身与鞋身里车和 Foot and foot lining sewing 圆头针 210D/3 3MM 1英寸9针 平车
4 鞋身与鞋身里刷胶 Foot and foot lining glueing
5 贴后跟补强 Cementing counter on heel
6 车后套饰线 鞋身与后套车合 Sewing heel onto feet 圆头针 210D/3 3MM 1英寸9针 平车
7 内底(毛毡、丽心布、羊皮)车合 laminating and fixing insole. 圆头针 210D/3 3MM 1英寸9针 平车
8 鞋面和内里车合 sewing vamp and vamp lining 圆头针 210D/3 3MM 1英寸9针 高头车
1. 2. 3 4
5 6. 7. 8
核准: 审核: 制表:
6. Sewing Process 2
Needle thread type Sewing edge SPI Page:6
针型号 线型 边距 针距 备注
9 鞋盖和假羊皮内衬粘合 Gluing vamp and lining.
10 鞋面与边条反接 sewing vamp and vamp trim 圆针头 210D/3 3mm 1英寸9针 平车
11 打鸡眼扣 Puching grommets on collar. 圆针头 210D/3 3mm 1英寸9针 平车
12 车鞋口饰片 sewing triangle patch onto collar. 圆针头 210D/3 3mm 1英寸9针 平车
13 鞋口和内里反车 sewing collar to leg lining 圆针头 210D/3 3mm 1英寸9针 平车
14 鞋口和内里 对接 attaching collar and leg lining together 圆针头 210D/3 3mm 1英寸9针 平车
15 穿鞋带并把鞋带接在一起 lacing and stitching the lace ends together 圆针头 210D/3 1英寸9针 高头车
9 10. 11. 12.
13. 14. 15. 16.
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7. 上底
Needle Thread SPI Page:6
针型号 线型 边距 针距 备注
1 粘毛毡 Gluing felt filler on outsole
2 刷胶 Gluing insole of upper.
3 粘底,定位 place and fix the position of upper and outsole.
4 车大底 Outsole sewing. 底线420D,上线10# 一英寸3-4针 3-4/inch
. .
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8. Inspection Process
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备注
1 配双 Color matching 1
2 检验盖,筒配色 Vamp and collor inspection
3 检验珠子 Bead checking.
4 检验兔毛筒 Fur checking.
5 检验毛球 Fur ball inspection
6 包装 Packing.
1. 2. 3. 4.
5. 6. 7. 8.
核准: 审核: 制表: