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William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Buying & Merchandising 2
Dr Neil Towers
The TASk Development Partnership is part funded by the
European Social Fund under the Equal Community Initiative Programme
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Learning Objectives
 To understand Fashion Retail Buying
and Merchandising
 To evaluate a Weekly Sales, Stock and
Intake schedule
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Definition of a range
 Scope
 Width of choice
 Depth of styles, colours, sizes and price
points
 Price Points
 Architecture
 Link to strategy and communication
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Fashion changes
 Residual stock gives flexibility to
respond
 Captures new trends
 Value Fashion retailers
 Higher volumes and greater cash
commitment
 Slow moving stock management
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Internal Planning
 Financial planning
 Stock model planning
 List and De-Listing from range
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Range Planning for own label
 Collating qualitative and quantitative
appraisal
 Planning for an own label range
 Proposal for future ranges
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Buying Branded Fashion
merchandise
 Smaller quantities
 Selection from a catalogue
 Influence of season trading
 Outlets
 Store or Non store
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Seasonal contribution
 Weighting
 Merging grey seasons
 Capacity and Response
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Support from others
 Involve agents or Fashion show
promotions
 Manufacturers have identified and
marketed brand
 New Product Introduction supported by
manufacturer’s contribution
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Intake
“A term relating to the amount of stock
delivered or planned to be delivered into
a fashion business”
(Jackson and Shaw, 2001, p189)
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Demand profiles
 Seasonal sales variations
 E.g Fashion women’s wear sales
 Ranges from 12% in December to 6% in
February
 Departmental stores with seasonal
sales
 Managed by category
 Swimwear in Spring and Tee Shirts in Summer
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Demand profiles
 Typical cross sales ratios
 Top garments to bottom garments as 2:1
 Women’s wear Lingerie
 Menswear Ties to shirts
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Commitment
“The value of stock (usually at selling
price) that has been ordered by the
buyer, but not delivered or paid for.”
(Jackson and Shaw, 2001, p184)
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Time scale commitment
 Long term Forecast
 Based on comparative analysis; LFL Sales
 Monthly Schedule
 Respond to emerging trends
 Weekly Plan
 Committed requirements
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Open to Buy
 “the amount of buying money available
at any one time”
 OTB = Opening stock – Closing stock
sales
(Jackson and Shaw, 2001, p192)
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Typical delivery dates
 China - Product can be made in all parts of the country and
there is an indeterminate time to get to the port. But FOB
Chinese port it's 6-8 weeks, route dependant.
 Indonesia - 6 weeks.
 Morocco - 8-10 days. this depends on how much of the route is
by sea, and how much by lorry. The quickest being by sea to
Spain then on by land.
 Romania - 6 - 8 days.
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Weekly Sales, Stock and Intake
(WSSI) plan
 Sales phased by week
 Intake by schedule and forecast
 Fixed, Firm and Tentative
 Forward Plan for opening and closing stock
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Delivery schedule
 Use WSSI to plan forward stock
 30% - 40% OTB at beginning of the
season
 Respond to Fashion Phasing within
season
 Incentives to stimulate demand
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
WSSI plan exercise
 To demonstrate constructing the
merchandise plan
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
OTB and Intake
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
1
3
5
7
9
11
13
15
17
Week Number
Cum Intake
OTB
William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre,
Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials
Learning Objectives
 To understand Fashion Retail Buying
and Merchandising
 To evaluate a Weekly Sales, Stock and
Intake schedule

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299

  • 1. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Buying & Merchandising 2 Dr Neil Towers The TASk Development Partnership is part funded by the European Social Fund under the Equal Community Initiative Programme
  • 2. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Learning Objectives  To understand Fashion Retail Buying and Merchandising  To evaluate a Weekly Sales, Stock and Intake schedule
  • 3. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Definition of a range  Scope  Width of choice  Depth of styles, colours, sizes and price points  Price Points  Architecture  Link to strategy and communication
  • 4. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Fashion changes  Residual stock gives flexibility to respond  Captures new trends  Value Fashion retailers  Higher volumes and greater cash commitment  Slow moving stock management
  • 5. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Internal Planning  Financial planning  Stock model planning  List and De-Listing from range
  • 6. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Range Planning for own label  Collating qualitative and quantitative appraisal  Planning for an own label range  Proposal for future ranges
  • 7. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Buying Branded Fashion merchandise  Smaller quantities  Selection from a catalogue  Influence of season trading  Outlets  Store or Non store
  • 8. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Seasonal contribution  Weighting  Merging grey seasons  Capacity and Response
  • 9. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Support from others  Involve agents or Fashion show promotions  Manufacturers have identified and marketed brand  New Product Introduction supported by manufacturer’s contribution
  • 10. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Intake “A term relating to the amount of stock delivered or planned to be delivered into a fashion business” (Jackson and Shaw, 2001, p189)
  • 11. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Demand profiles  Seasonal sales variations  E.g Fashion women’s wear sales  Ranges from 12% in December to 6% in February  Departmental stores with seasonal sales  Managed by category  Swimwear in Spring and Tee Shirts in Summer
  • 12. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Demand profiles  Typical cross sales ratios  Top garments to bottom garments as 2:1  Women’s wear Lingerie  Menswear Ties to shirts
  • 13. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Commitment “The value of stock (usually at selling price) that has been ordered by the buyer, but not delivered or paid for.” (Jackson and Shaw, 2001, p184)
  • 14. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Time scale commitment  Long term Forecast  Based on comparative analysis; LFL Sales  Monthly Schedule  Respond to emerging trends  Weekly Plan  Committed requirements
  • 15. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Open to Buy  “the amount of buying money available at any one time”  OTB = Opening stock – Closing stock sales (Jackson and Shaw, 2001, p192)
  • 16. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Typical delivery dates  China - Product can be made in all parts of the country and there is an indeterminate time to get to the port. But FOB Chinese port it's 6-8 weeks, route dependant.  Indonesia - 6 weeks.  Morocco - 8-10 days. this depends on how much of the route is by sea, and how much by lorry. The quickest being by sea to Spain then on by land.  Romania - 6 - 8 days.
  • 17. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Weekly Sales, Stock and Intake (WSSI) plan  Sales phased by week  Intake by schedule and forecast  Fixed, Firm and Tentative  Forward Plan for opening and closing stock
  • 18. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Delivery schedule  Use WSSI to plan forward stock  30% - 40% OTB at beginning of the season  Respond to Fashion Phasing within season  Incentives to stimulate demand
  • 19. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials WSSI plan exercise  To demonstrate constructing the merchandise plan
  • 20. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials OTB and Intake 0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 Week Number Cum Intake OTB
  • 21. William Lee Innovation Centre,William Lee Innovation Centre, Textiles & Paper, School of MaterialsTextiles & Paper, School of Materials Learning Objectives  To understand Fashion Retail Buying and Merchandising  To evaluate a Weekly Sales, Stock and Intake schedule