This document provides an overview of several locations in Beijing, China featured in a panoramic photography album. It begins with brief descriptions of 3 sections of the Great Wall near Beijing: the Golden Ridge segment dating back 400 years, the Simatai section from the Ming Dynasty listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and reflections on the massive engineering project that the Great Wall represents. It then describes an ancient village called Chuandixia perfectly preserving over 70 Ming and Qing dynasty courtyard homes, and provides historical context on the traditional courtyard house form of residences in Beijing.

1. 北
京
360˚
方天梦 Tamas D. Varga
text by 余泽民
Beijing 360˚
全景印象 Panoramic impressions

5. 北京 D·瓦尔伽·托马士
Tamas D. Varga
北京360˚
Beijing 360˚
配文 text by 余泽民 Yu Zemin
出版社 Published by 360°艺术公司 360Art Kft.
装贴设计 Design 胡尔顿·托马士 Tamás Hurton

6. 鸣谢 我愿在此衷心感谢所有使我得以完成这本图册朋友们。
我更是深深地感谢我的北京朋友亮罗，他那些绝妙的建议和丰富的当地知识使我在寻找激动人心的场面和创造我的全景图像
的全部过程中自始至终助得益蜚浅。
Acknowledgement I would like to express my gratitude to all those who gave me the possibility to complete this album.
I am deeply indebted to my friend in Beijing, Luo Liang 亮罗 whose help, stimulating suggestions and local knowledge helped me in all the time of search for exciting
places and composing panoramic images of my panoramic vista.

7. 北京
Author D. Varga Tamás 作者 D·瓦尔伽·托马士
Photos D. Varga Tamás 摄影 D·瓦尔伽·托马士
Text Yu Zemin 配文 余泽民
Translation Garry Guan 英文翻译 关学君
Panorama creation D. Varga Tamás 全景创意 D·瓦尔伽·托马士
Graphic design Hurton Tamás, Ciceró Stúdió Bt. 装贴设计 胡尔顿·托马士，Cicer ó工作室
Prepress Hurton Tamás, Dame Vanda, Ciceró Stúdió Bt. 胡尔顿·托马士，朵麦·汪妲，Ciceró工作室
Editor D. Varga Tamás 编辑 D·瓦尔伽·托马士
Prepress Ciceró Stúdió Bt. 制作 Ciceró 工作室 cicerostudio@enternet.hu
Executive publishers Bertényi István, D. Varga Tamás 出版负责人 拜里尼·伊什特万，D·瓦尔伽·托马士
Published by 360 Art Kft. beijing360@360art.hu 出版社 360°艺术公司 beijing360@360art.hu
美国亚美语言服务公司关学君和夏立奇提供本图册中英文翻译。
Chinese-English translations provided by Mr. Garry Guan and Mr. Anthony Awsariti of Asian American Language
Services (AALS)
© 360 Art Kft., Budapest, 2007.
All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any material form or by any means, including photocopying, image scanning, storing or recording by any
means in any form nor broadcasting or transmission through any medium of any part of this publication by electronic means and whether or not transiently or incidentally
to some other use of this publication, without the express written consent of the copyright owner.
版权
© 360 Art Kft., Budapest, 2007.
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在没有获得版权拥有者书面许可的情况下，严禁以任何方式利用、复印或以电脑途径呈示本画册内的完整或局部作品以及附属资料，严禁以任何形式和任何
方式——电子、机械、拍摄或其他方式——进行复制或储入资料系统。修订版
ISBN: 978-963-87337-1-9

8. 献辞
我谨将这部画册献给我的爱妻维拉，并希望有朝一日她能造访中国，亲眼看看这部画册中所拍摄所描述的那些地方。
序
每当我为了拍摄这部全景摄影画册而飞往北京的时候，总是忍不住赞叹凌空鸟瞰到的绚烂晨曦。“东方红”果然名不虚传。
怀着探索古代时光痕迹的初衷，我风尘仆仆地来到这里，见到的却是一座日新月异地、高度现代化的大都市。我每次重返北京，都会
为这座城市面貌的瞬息万变而惊诧不已。.
对我来说，除了采集全景摄影景点之外，了解京城市民生活也同等重要。他们的确热情好客。（请翻到本画册的第51页阅读“水书”
章节的描述）。
用全景展现周围环境，其实并非现代人的独特发明。这种艺术表现手法，也并非源于摄影技术。全景画的历史已有数百年之久。
综观人类的漫长历史，试图表现、展示、描绘和拍摄我们周围环境的渴望自古存在。想想西班牙阿尔塔米拉山洞（Altamira）与法国
南部拉斯考克山洞（Lascaux ）的壁画以及卢索克的墓壁画便可略知一二。可以这样说，这些画是人类借用广角的形式捕捉事件和全
景空间的原始范例。
中国画也不乏全景画的例证。虽然人们最熟悉的是那些立式卷轴挂图，然而早在宋代，就出现了许多巨幅的全景画卷。其中包括夏圭
的逾十米的横幅长卷《长江万里图》和张择端的《清明上河图》。我真心希望，我用最新数码技术所拍摄的现代全景摄影，能够获得
热烈的反响。
通过此前出版发行的全景摄影画册——《布达佩斯360°》以及《匈牙利360°》，我旨在对全景摄影重新定义。人们通常所理解的全
景，是一种广角和深地平线的图像；而我认为，您并不一定非要站在制高点上感受周围的全景空间。在360度的空间里，对那些唾手
可得的物件和融化在地平线里的图形元素的全方位审视，对我来说已经创造出绝佳的构图。
Tamás D. Varga 并非所有的景点都适合于全景摄影，因此我们的画册也并不想循规蹈矩，并不想受制于那些约定成俗的预期性主题。
方天梦
通过我的摄影画册，我希望能让更多的读者熟悉中国的首都——北京；同时还让那些对这个城市已了如指掌了的北京人，也能换一个
崭新的视角欣赏那些传统景点。这部画册借助将立体空间折置于一个平面之上的360度全景镜头技术，向您展示出许多鲜为人知的细
节和奇妙氛围。
欢迎您前来造访www.beijing360.cn网站，与我们共同分享新的探索与新的发现。

9. Dedication
I dedicate this album to my wife, Vera, in the hope that one day she would be
able to come to China to visit the places photographed and described in this album.
Introduction
Whenever I flew to Beijing to work on this panoramic photo album I admired the colours
of the morning sky from the air. The East was always red indeed.
I came with the desire to discover the remains of ancient times and encountered a bustling city
modernising at high speed. Whenever I returned I was amazed by the changes of the cityscape.
While I collected panoramic impressions of places, residents of Beijing were equally important to me.
And they were very welcoming indeed. (Please turn to page 51 and read the water calligraphy text).
Panoramic representation of the surroundings is not an invention of the modern age. Nor has this art
form just originated with photography. It has been with us over centuries in pictography.
The desire to show, display, paint and photograph the space around us is as old as mankind. Just think
of the cave paintings of Altamira and Lascaux as well as the tomb frescos in Luxor. These paintings,
which can be seen as the original examples of panoramic format, captured events
and spaces in wide angle.
Chinese painting formats are great examples of panoramic representation also. Most familiar are
the hanging vertical scrolls. However, many large size panorama paintings were also created
during the Song Dynasty including Xia Kui's more than 10 meters long horizontal scroll portraying
the Yangze riverside and Zhang Zeduan's Qingming Shanghe Tu. I very much hope that modern
panoramic photography taken with the latest digital technology will be met with a warm response.
With the previously released album, Budapest 360°, as well as with the publication of Hungary 360°,
I aimed at redefining the notion of panoramic photography. The common understanding of panorama
involves an image of wide angle and deep horizon. However, I believe that you do not have to stand on
a summit to sense the space surrounding you as a panoramic unit. In a space of 360 degrees the overall
view of objects in your reach and elements melting into the horizon creates
the perfect composition for me.
Not all sites have the makings of a good scene for a panoramic photograph, and therefore our album
Tamás D.Varga does not follow the common and perhaps expected themes of similar endeavors.
Fang TianMen With my photo album I would like to acquaint visitors with the capital of China, Beijing and reacquaint
360 Art Ltd the citizens, who already know the city well with some famous sites. This album reveals lesser known
details and atmosphere with the assistance of the 360 degree panorama lens technology
which bends space onto a surface.
We will make new discoveries together when you visit www.beijing360.cn.

10. 长城是世界上修建时间最长、工程量最大的古代防御工程。 自公元前七世纪的春秋战国时期， 直到最后帝国的满清王朝，前
1. 长城断想 后修筑了两千多年，总计长达五万多公里。
Thoughts on The Great Wall is the most massive ancient defensive engineering structure in the world, both in terms of time spent in building it and its sheer size. Beginning in the 7th century B.C.E. during the
Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods down to the last two dynasties of the Ming and Qing, the Wall was built over a period of more than 2,000 years and has a length of over 50,000
the Great Wall kilometers.
金山岭长城距京城一百三十公里，位于密云，自古是兵家必争之地。城关相连，敌楼相望，重城护卫，射界交叉，这十里残
2. 金山岭 垣保持了四百年前明长城的原貌。
The Golden Ridge The Golden Ridge segment of the Great Wall is 130 kilometers from Beijing in Miyun District. From ancient times it has been a strongly contested military area. This 5 kilometer remnant of the
Wall with it gates, its outlook towers, its added outer defense wall meant to impede cavalry horses and its field of fire for archers has retained the appearance of the Ming Wall of some 400 years
ago.
3. 司马台 明代司马台长城距离京城一百二十公里，位于密云，长十九公里，烽火台三十五座，构思新巧，惊险雄奇，被联合国教科文组
织列为“世界文化遗产”。
Simatai—Great
Wall The Simatai section of the Great Wall, dating from the Ming dynasty, is located 120 kilometers from Beijing in Miyun and stretches 19 kilometers in length with 35 watchtowers. Its design is
ingenious and the vista breathtaking. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site.
川底下是隐匿在西山峡谷中的古老村落。依山而建，层层升高，瓦顶错落，小巷盘曲，至今神化般保存着七十余套、五百多间
4. 古村 明清时代的四合院民居，是保存完整的北京古建筑群。
An Ancient Village Chuandixia (“Below-the-River”) is an ancient village hiddend away in the Xishan Valley. It was built against a mountainside and rises up in stages with tiled roofs all over and small, twisting al-
leyways. Miraculously, more than 70 courtyard homes with over 500 rooms dating from the Ming and Qing period (1368-1911 CE) have survived. The village is a perfectly preserved ancient Beijing
construction complex.
四合院是北京民居的传统形式，是由东西南北四面房子围合起来的庭院式住宅，最早可追溯到商周时代，成型于汉代，到了唐
5. 老宅 宋，四合院住宅已很盛行。
An Old Residence The courtyard house is the traditional Beijing dwelling. It is composed of a central courtyard surrounded by rooms on the four points of the compass. The earliest examples of this design go back
to the Shang and Zhou dynasty period (1766-256 BCE) taking final shape during the Han (206 BCE- 220 CE) and reaching its high point during the Tang and Song dynasties (618-1127 CE).
川底下的木窗木门多采用木本色，木雕多为质地细密、以花卉、图案和文字为主的硬木透雕，古朴雅致，精美细腻。尤其在
6. 窗影 日出日落，光影变化，妙趣无常。
Shadows Through The windows and doors in Chuandixia mostly use the wood itself for color, and the fine carving is mostly done in flowers, pictures and Chinese characters in hardwood fretwork. The style is simple
the Windows and elegant, exquisite and delicate. Especially at sunrise and sunset, the light and shadow alternate producing a charming and mysterious display.
龙庆峡位于延庆县东北部，距离市区八十五公里，既有南方的灵秀，又有北方的雄浑，人称“小漓江”、“小三峡”。那里的
7. 冰宫 夏日气温要比城里低6.4度，是天然的避暑胜地。
The Ice Palace The Longqingxia is located in the northeast part of Yanqing County, 85 kilometers from the urban area. With its delicate and beautiful northern topograpy and its strong and virile southern por-
tion, it is know as the “Little Li River” and the “Little Three Gorges.” During the summer months the temperature there is 6.4 degrees cooler than in the city, a naturally air-conditioned refuge
against the heat.
银山塔林位于昌平县北部，现存古塔十八座，其中金、元两代的墓塔七座（12-14世纪），塔高均在30米左右，比少林寺、灵
8. 银山塔林 岩寺的墓塔还要高大。
The Yinshan The Yinshan Pagoda Forest is located in the northern part of Changping County. Today, 18 ancient pagodas remain, and of those seven are tomb pagodas dating from the Jin and Yuan dynasties
Pagoda Forest (12th-14th centuries). The pagodas average some 30 meteres in height, taller than the tomb pagodas of the Shaolin and Lingyan Temples.

11. 平谷县有一个面积16.8万亩的梦幻桃园，被列入了“世界吉尼斯记录”。这里产桃两百多种，年产总量上亿公斤。最大的桃子一公斤一个，
9. 蟠桃园 一个就能卖一百欧元！
Garden of Immortal Pinggu County is home to a fantasy-like peach orchard of some 16.8 hectares and has been listed in the Guiness World Records. There are over two hundred varieties of peach grown here with
Peaches a yearly yield of over 100 million kilograms. The biggest peaches are one kilogram each and a single one sells for as much as 100 euros!
卢沟桥建于金末（1189年-1192年），桥长266.5米，桥栏雕有501只石狮，桥下11孔。1937年7月7日日军在这里发动侵略进攻，史称
10. 明月吟 “卢沟桥事变”。
The Moon’s Lament The Marco Polo Bridge (“Lugou Bridge”) was built during the late Jin, Dynasty (1189-1192 CE). It has a length of 266.5 meters with 501 stone lions carved on its baustrades and eleven arches. On
July 7, 1937, the Japanese army began its invasion of China here. This is known to history as the “Marco Polo Incident.”
颐和园坐落在北京西郊，是清代的皇家花园和行宫，动工于1750年，前后建了十四年，占地两百九十公顷，由万寿山、昆明湖、后山后湖组
11. 禅境 成，集粹了中国古典园林艺术的精华。
The Realm of Quiet The Summer Palace (Yiheyuan) is situated in the western outskirts of Beijing. During the Qing dynasty it was the royal garden and served as the “traveling palace” (xinggong) when the Emperor
was away from the capital. Work began on the structure in 1750 and took 14 years to complete. It occupies 290 hectares and is composed of Longevity Hill, Kunming Lake, Back Hill and Back
Contemplation Lake. The Summer Palace is an exquisite and perfect example of the traditional art of Chinese gardening.
颐和园苏州街，地处后山后湖。岸边开有茶馆、糕点铺、当铺、钱庄、药店、印书局等。街内使用清式铜钱进行模拟交易，再
12. 雪霁笛声 现了两百年前的商业文化。
The Sound of a Flute Suzhou Market St. at the Summer Palace is located in the Back Hill and Back Lake area. On either side of the lake are tea houses, pastry shops, pawn shops, banks, pharmacies and printing shops.
After a Snowfall Here business is conducted using Qing dynasty style copper coins as in days gone by, and commerce flourishes once again as it did two hundred years ago.
正月十五，北京人不仅吃象征“团圆美满”的元宵，还举办热闹的灯节。灯节始自汉代，兴于盛唐，明朝的灯会长达十天！元
13. 元宵节 宵节赏灯是恋爱的佳机，是古代中国的情人节。
The Lantern Festival On the 15th of the First Lunar month Beijingers not only eat the yuanxiao dumplings made from glutinous rice that symbolize a “happy family reunion,” they also stage the lively Lantern Festival. The
Lantern Festival has its origins in the Han dynasty, and reached its height in the Booming Tang dynasty. During the Ming dynasty, the festivities continued for ten days! Enjoying the lanterns during
the festival is also a great time for romance and traditionally was a kind of Chinese Valentines Day.
14. 罗汉皇帝 碧云寺位于香山东麓，始建于元代（1331年），原为碧云庵。明代改庵为寺，清乾隆年间再次扩建，兴建了金刚宝座塔、行宫和罗汉堂。
The Arhat Emperor Biyun Temple is on the eastern slope of Fragrant Hill. Construction began during the Yuan dynasty (in 1331) and it was originally was knows as the Biyun Monastery (an). During the Ming dynasty
it became a temple and in the reign of Qianlong during the Qing it was once again expanded when the pagoda, temporary Palace and Hall of the Arhat were built.
15. 衣冠冢 金刚宝座塔位于碧云寺的最高处，通高34.7米，下部砌两层虎皮石基座，其上建塔。塔全部用华丽的汉白玉砌成。孙中山先生
的衣冠冢就立在这里。
Personal Effects
Tomb The “Diamond Cutter Throne” pagoda at Biyun is 34.7 meters highand is located at the highest point of Biyun Temple. Its base is contructed on two layers of “tiger skin stone.” The pagoda itself
is built entirely of white marble. It is the repository of Sun Yat-sen’s personal effects tomb.
颐和园取“颐养太和”之意，是清代皇帝的行宫。园内种满桃花、海棠、牡丹、玉兰。每到春天，皇帝就离开紫禁城到颐和
16. 与春天合影 园赏春怡性，听奏勤政。
Spring Photos The Summer Palace, or “Yiheyuan,” takes its meaning from the phrase “nurtured (yiyang) harmony (taihe) garden (yuan).” During the Qing dynasty was the temporary Imperial Palace (xinggong)
used when the Emperor was away from the capital. The park is planted with flowering peach, and crab-apple, peony and magnolia trees. Each spring the Emperor would leave the Forbidden City
and travel to the Summer Palace to appreciate the joy of celebrating spring and conduct government affairs.

12. 昆明湖在万寿山南麓，约占颐和园总面积的四分之三。湖中有一座南湖岛，由十七孔桥与湖岸相连。清朝光绪皇帝和慈禧太后
17. 绿岛 的寝宫，均建在昆明湖畔。
Green Island Kunming Lake is on the southern foot of Logevity Hill and occupies about 3/4 of the total land area of the Summer Palace. Nanhu Island is in the middle of the lake and it joined to the bank of the
lake by a 17-arch bridge. The bedroom palaces of the Qing Emperor Guanxu and the Empress Dowager are both on the shores of Kunming Lake.
鼓楼位于京城南北中轴线的北端，建于明永乐十八年（1424年），是明清都城的报时中心。现在它已失去司时的功用，仍默
18. 京仙 默地为北京涌来逝去的岁月作证。
Fairy God of Beijing The Drum Tower is located at the northern end of the north-south axis of the city. It was constructed in 1424 during the the Yongle period of the Ming dynasty and was the center for telling time
for the city during both the Ming and Qing dynasties. It has now lost its time-telling function but remains a silent witness to the months and years that the capital city has seen.
北京人讲吃善吃。几百年来，他们依仗国都的便利，将各地风味都汇粹到这里。好吃的游客，既可去彻夜挑灯的簋街，也能
19. 太后迎宾 去“老字号”济济的大栅栏。
The Empress Welco- Beijingers are fond of their food. For several hundred years they have relied on the covenience of living in the capital city to have the best of food from throughout the country brought here. Tourists
mes Customers interested in good food and good eating can go to the all-night lantern festooned Gui Street. for restaurants or to the “time tested” shops in the busy Dashanlan section.
北京的胡同起源于元代，最多时达六千余条，宽的可以走并排马车，窄的只能侧身而过。长安街以北的每条胡同，都跟八百年
20. 消逝中 前的元大都有关。胡同活着，元大都就活着……
Fading Away Beijing hutongs date from the Yuan dynasty and at their height numbered more than six thousand. The broader ones were able to accommodate horse-drawn vehicles side by side, the narrower
ones were just large enough for a person to sqeeze through sideways. The hutongs north of Chang’an Street. all relate to the original Yuan capital area, Dadu (“Great Capital”), of some eight
hundred years ago. As long as the hutongs exist, so does Dadu....
坐着三轮车逛胡同，是了解老北京文化和风土人情的绝好形式。京城里的胡同数以千计，许多古巷狭窄弯曲，偏僻难寻。三轮
21. 三轮车 车为寻找老北京的踪迹提供了方便。
The Pedicab Riding a pedicab through the hutongs is a wonderful way to understand the culture and local customs of Old Beijing. There are thousands of hutongs in the city. Many of the ancient alleys are
narow and winding, out of the way and hard to find.
胡同是随元大都一起在一片荒野上建起来的老北京文化，它是否将随着北京的现代化建设而沉入历史的海底？这不仅是北京人
22. 胡同与井 的忧虑，也是所有热爱北京之人的忧虑。
Hutongs and Wells Hutongs are a part of Old Beijing culture that were built on an open piece of land, as was the Yuan capital itself. Will they sink beneath the waves of history as the building design of Beijing’s
modernizes? This is a worry not just for Beijingers, but for all those who love the city.
北京的茶庄兴起于清代，客人们不出城门，就能买到全国各地的名茶。小茶庄巴掌见方，大茶庄俨如药铺；到了现代，茶庄更
23. 茶庄 趋多元化，成了集茶文化之大全的“茶超市”。
Tea Shop Tea shops became popular in Beijing during the Qing dynasty. Without having to leave the city walls, guests could buy tea from anywhere in China. Small shops were tiny little places just big
enough to turn around in, large ones were just like the traditional herbal medicine shops. Today tea shops are getting even more diversified and have become tea supermarkets that pull together
all the elements of the tea culture.
老舍茶馆位于前门西大街三号，营业面积两千六百平米，是以著名作家老舍及其剧名命名的、京味十足的传统茶馆。这里不仅
24. 大茶馆 是艺人、票友的聚会场所，也是八方游客的慕名地。
The Tea House The Lao She Tea House is located at No. 3, Xidajie, Qianmen and covers an area of 2,600 sq. meters. It is named after the famous playwright Lao She and his play and is a traditional Beijing-style
tea house. Not only a place where artists and amateur actors and actresses of the Beijing opera gather, the tea house draws people from all over, attracted by its reputation.

13. 琉璃厂位于宣武区和平门外，是从清初开始形成的古玩字画、古籍碑帖和文房四宝的集散地。后来店铺越开越多，人气越来越
25. 琉璃厂 大，逐渐成为老城内最火的古玩街。
Liulichang Liulichang is located in the Xuanwu District outside of Hepingmen (“Peace Gate”). Begining in the early Qing dynasty it was a commercial center for antiques, calligraphy, old books, stone rub-
bings and the traditional “four treasures of the study”: writing brushes, ink sticks, paper and ink stones. Subsequently the number of stores continued to multiply, became increasingly popular and
gradually transformed into the most lively antiques street within the old city.
北京最早的鬼市有南北两个：南市在崇文门外，北市在德胜门外。战乱期间，城门晚开，于是搬到了什刹海，这个鬼市至今可
26. 鬼市 寻。现在最有名的鬼市在东华门、大栅栏和潘家园。
The Ghost Market At the very beginning Beijing had two ghost markets, a southern market, outside the Chongwen Gate, and a northern market outside the Desheng Gate. During wartime since the gates of city were
opened late in the morning, the markets were moved to Shichahai, which can still be found today. The most well-known ghost markets now are those at Donghumen, Dashanlan and Panjiayuan.
东华门夜市开在王府井北口，是京城最火的小吃街，每夜食客滚滚，美味飘香。如今的北京人足不出门，就能吃便天下，以至
27. 夜市 本来老司空见惯的京城小吃，反成了偶尝的美食。
The Night Market The Donghua Gate night market is at the northern entrance to Wangfujing Street, the Capital’s most lively street for eating snacks. Each night visitors roll in as the wonderful fragrance of the food
wafts on the evening breezes. Modern Beijingers can eat anything they want from the convenience of their home without ever stepping out of the door so that Beijing snacks, once commonplace,
have now become a culinary treat eaten only ocassionally.
王府井是北京有名的商业区。明代这里修起十座王府，街的南端有一眼甜井，因此被称为王府井。1903年，这里兴建了规模巨
28. 围城 大的“东安市场”，从此成为京城最繁华的地段。
Fortress Besieged Wangfujing is Beijing’s well known commercial district. During the Ming dynasty ten princely residences (wangfu) were built here and at the southern end of the street was a fresh water well
(jing), thus the area was called “wangfujing.” In 1903 the huge “Dong’an Market” was built and from that time onward this became the Capital’s most wealthy and luxurious area.
同升和鞋店是最享盛名的百年老字号，1902年在在天津开业，主要经营帽子和布鞋；1932年，北京同升和店在繁华的王府井大
29. 鞋店春秋 街开业，至今仍是京华名店。
The Story of a Shoe Shop The Tongshengde shoe shop enjoys a reputation as one of the most famous “century-old brands” around. It began in 1902 in Tianjin primarily manufacturing hats and shoes. In 1932 the Beijing
branch opened in the flourishing Wangfujing Street. and remains today one of the famous stores in the nation’s capital.
北海公园位于京城的心脏，从辽至清修建了五朝。整个园林根据古代神话中的“一池三神山”构思布局，富有浓厚的梦幻色
30. 晨练 彩。1915年辟为公园。
Early Morning Exercises Beihai Park is located in the heart of the capital and was rebuilt by each of the five successive dynasties from the Liao to the Qing. The garden as a whole is laid out as a “pond with the three
Legendary Mountains,” rich in its sense of illusion and reverie. It was developed as a park in 1915.
北京有名的藏饰店有好几家，最聚人气的当属开在后海烟袋斜街的“天堂之约西藏风情”，拐个弯就是银锭桥。每天进出小店
31. 天堂之约 的都是从藏饰中寻找时尚感觉的酷男倩女。
An Appointment There are many famous shops in Beijing selling Tibetan jewelry. The most popular is probably the “Appointment with Heaven” shop in Houhai on “Tobacco Pipe Street” (Yandai xiejie) right around
With Heaven the corner from the Yinding Bridge. Everyday the little shop is patronized by stylish men and women looking to keep up with fashion through Tibetan jewelry.
湖广会馆位于宣武区，建于清代（1807年），不仅在梨园史上声名显赫，1912年8月25日，孙中山还在这里主持召开了国民党
32. 大戏院 成立大会。湖广会馆与京城最老的“广德楼”一样，至今鼓乐不断，名角汇粹
The Grand Theater The Hu-Guang Guild Hall is located in the Xuanwu District and was built during the Qing dynasty in 1807. Not only famous in the history of Being opera, on August 25, 1912 SunYat-sen
held the inaugural meeting of the Nationalist Party here. The Guild Hall, like Beijing’s oldest theater, the “Guangdelou,” continues to stage musical performances pulling together
all the best actors and actresses.

14. 潘家园旧货市场位于三环路东南角，是全国最大的“鬼市”。市场占地近五万平米，摊位、铺面三千多个，每周只开放周末两
33. 淘宝族乐园 日，日流量多达十万人，光外国淘客就能上万。
The Flea Market The Panjiayuna flea market is located on the southeast corner of the 3rd Ring Road. It is the biggest “ghost market” in the country. The market occupies close to 50 thousand square meters with
more than 3,000 stalls or shop fronts. The market is only open on weekends but is visited by some 100 thousand people each day, the number of foreign visitors alone numbering in the tens of
thousands.
天坛，是北京城内最美的踏春地。早春时节，玉兰绽放，丁香如浪，海棠茂盛，杏林飞红。春日下，沧桑的古柏抖掉霜雪，
34. 赏春 染上一层茸茸的新绿。
Springtime The Temple of Heaven (Tiantan) is the most beautiful place in Beijing to experience the arrival of spring. During the early part of the season the magnolias come into bloom, the lilacs come in
waves, the flowering crab apple trees are luxuriant and the apricot trees are dotted with their red flowers. Under the spring sun the ancient cypress trees have shaken off the frost and snow and
have put on a new green coat.
北京园林美不胜收。大的有皇朝气魄的天坛、北海、颐和园，小的有私家宅院的后花园。在新北京的摩天商厦之间，还掩映着
35. 月亮河 越来越多象菖蒲河公园这样禅意道境的街心花园。
Moon River Beijing gardens are beautiful beyond compare. Large gardens include the imperial parks like Tiantan, Beihai and the Summer Palace, smaller ones are the rear gardens of private courtyard homes.
And hidden away among modern Beijing’s skyscrapers is an increasing number of street gardens like the Changpu River Park with its Zen and Taoist atmosphere.
老北京习惯把皇宫左右叫“皇城根儿”，至今还有“东皇城根儿”、“ 西皇城根儿”的地名。护城河畔，清晨有人偷偷钓
36. 皇城根儿 鱼；最美的，是礼花中角楼倒映在河面上的彩影。
The Foot of the Wall Old Beijingers habitually refer to the left and right sides of the Imperial Palace as “Huangcheng gen er,” or “Foot of the Imperial Wall.” Today they still use the terms “East Foot of the Wall” and
“West Foot of the Wall.” In the early morning people can be seen secretly fishing on the banks of the moat. A most beautiful sight is the colorful reflection on the water of the watchtower bathed
(“Huangcheng gen er”)
in fireworks.
紫禁城是明清两代的皇宫，占地七十二万平方米，是世界上最大的宫殿。始建于1406年，建成于1420年。先后有二十四位皇帝
37. 紫禁城 居住，末代皇帝溥仪于1924年11月5日凄然离宫。
The Forbidden City The Forbidden City was the Imperial Palace during the Ming and Qing dynasties. It occupies an area of 720 thousand sq. meters and is the largest palace in the world. Begun in 1406, it was finished
in 1420. All together, 24 Emperors lived there. The last Emperor, Pu Yi, made his sad and tragic exit from the Palace on November 5, 1924.
故宫总面积七十二万平方米，但目前开放的区域只有三十万平方米。也就是说，游人虽然走断了腿，也只看到宫墙内的一小部
38. 紫禁城的秘密 分秘密。比如承乾宫的梨花院，花开花落，寂寞无主。
The Secrets of The Imperial Palace has a total area of 720,000 sq. meters but currently only 300,000 sq. meters are open to the public. That is to say, after walking their legs off, visitors will have only seen a
the Forbidden City small portion of the secrets contained within the Palace walls. . . . while in the Pear Flower Garden of the Chengqian Palace the flowers bloom and fall, forlorn and abandoned.
法源寺位于宣武门外，占地面积六千七百平米，自唐朝至今已有一千三百年历史，不仅是京城历史最悠久的千年古刹，也是中
39. 法源寺 国佛学院和中国佛教图书文物馆所在地。
The Fayuan The Fayuan Temple (“Temple of the Origin of the Dharma”) is located outside the Xuanwu Gate and occupies an area of 6,700 sq. meters. With a history of 1,300 years stretching back to the
Buddhist Temple Tang dynasty, it is not only the oldest temple in Beijing, it is the home of the Chinese Buddhist Academy and the Relic Hall of Chinese Buddhism Books.
大观园是清代文学家曹雪芹的小说《红楼梦》中所描写的、为贾妃元春省亲而修的别墅。北京大观园是1984年为拍摄电影《红
40. 大观园 楼梦》设计修建，院落布局、甚至亭台小景均有出处。
The Daguanyuan The Daguanyuan was described in the novel The Dream of the Red Chamber by the Qing novelist Cao Xueqin and was the country villa constructed for he concubine Jia Yuanchun to visit her
parents. The Beijing Daguanyuan was designed and built in 1984 for the movie, The Dream of the Red Chamber. The general layout of the open court area and even the small pavilions and plat-
forms are all designs right out of the novel.

15. 世界公园位于丰台区，距市中心十六公里，占地五十公顷。公园景区按五大洲布局，水系模仿四大洋形状。世界名胜均按
41. 袖珍世界 1:10的比例微缩，精细逼真。不出国界，一览乾坤。
The World in The World Park is located in the Fengtai District, 16 kilometers from city center, and occupies 50 hectares. The Park is laid out in the form of five continents with water imitating the four oceans.
Miniature The world’s famous scenic spots are build on a 1:10 ratio in detailed and realistic miniature. Without leaving the country, you can see the whole world.
42. 798 “798时态空间”是北京新兴的大山子艺术区（原国营798军工厂）内面积最大、空间最高、前卫时尚的现代文化、艺术、商
业空间。
798 Space
„798 Space” (originally Armament Factory No. 798) is in the new art district of Dashanzi It is the largest avant-garde, modern culture, art and commercial space in the city.
中国的摇滚萌芽于北京，北京的摇滚先驱是《一无所有》的崔健。1994年，“魔岩三杰”和唐朝乐队在香港红堪体育馆的“摇
43. 摇滚婴儿 滚中国势力演唱会”，是中国摇滚最辉煌的瞬间。
Baby Rockers Chinese rock began in Beijing. The pioneer of Beijing rock is Cui Jian, who shot to startdom in 1985 when he performed “Nothing to My Name” on a television talent show. The crowning moment
of Chinese rock came in 1994 at the Hong Kong Hung Hom Coliseum (now the Hong Kong Coliseum) when the “Three Heroes of Magic Stone Records,” He Yong, Zhang Chu and Dou Wei,
and the band “Tang Dynasty” performed at the “Rock China!” concert.
北京的鱼市有许多家，位于天桥闹市的“华声天桥民俗文化市场”内的鱼市虽然不是最大最老的，但是最火的一家。每日平
44. 鱼市 均人流量达五万人。
Fish Market There are many Beijing fish shops. Although the fish market in the “Huasheng Tianqiao Folk Culture Market” in the busy Tianqiao District is not the biggest or oldest fish market, it is the most
popular. An average of 50,000 people visit it each day.
地坛，是京城仅次于天坛的第二大坛，始建于明代（1530年），是皇帝祭祀社稷地神的场所。地坛的春节庙会，则是京城人气
45. 庙会 最旺的民俗节，热闹非常。
The Temple Fair The Temple of the Earth (“Ditan”) is second only to the Temple of Heaven in Beijing and was built during the Ming dynasty (in 1530). It was where the Emperor performed the sacrifices to the
gods of the earth and the grains. The Spring Temple Fair at the Temple of Earth is the most lively of the year.
京城的秋季，如流彩的调色板，火辣的枫叶、橘红的黄栌、金灿的白杨、淡黄的柳枝、松柏的常青和红墙绿瓦上湛蓝的晴空。
46. 金秋 秋风吹过，阳光泻下，随着落叶摔成细碎的光。
Golden Autumn The Beijing autumn is like a flowing color pallete—fire red maple leaves, orange smoketrees, the white poplar trees sparkling with gold, the pale yellow of the willow trees, the evergreen of the
pines and cypresses and the the deep blue sky above the red walls and green tile. An autumn breeze comes up, and the sun’s rays are broken into tiny slivves by the falling leaves.
中华世纪坛是为迎接千禧年而建，位于京西，由主体结构、青铜甬道、圣火广场、世纪大厅、艺术大厅、过街桥组成。二百七
47. 世纪坛 十米的青铜甬道镌刻了中华民族的文明纪年。
The China Century Altar The China Century Altar was built to welcome in the new milleneum and is located in the western part of Beijing. It is a central structure with a Bronze Path, Sacred Fire, Century Hall, an Art Hall
and connecting bridge. The 270 meter Bronze Path is engraved with a record of Chinese civilization.
玲珑塔位于西八里庄，建于明代1576年，是八角型密檐式砖塔，十三层，六十米高。原来寺院早化为灰烬，但与不远处造型洗
48. 玲珑塔秘史 练、高耸入云的北京电视塔遥相呼应，别有意味。
The Secret History of The Linglong Pagoda is in West Balizhuang and was built during the Ming dynasty (in 1576). It was an octagonal, multi-eaves style brick pagoda with 13 storeys, 60 meters tall. The temple once
the Linglong Pagoda the pagoda belonged to has long since been reduced to ashes but the ruins make an interesting juxtaposition to the clean lines of the CCTV broadcast tower not far away that soars into the sky.

16. 天坛位于天安门东南。始建于明代1420年，是皇帝祭祀上天、祈求丰收礼仪场所。祈年殿高三十八米，直径三十二米，宝顶鎏
49. 天坛 金，琉璃瓦蓝，三重檐亭，富丽堂皇。
Temple of Heaven The Temple of Heaven is southeast of Tiananmen. Construction began in 1420 during the Ming dynasty and this was the temple where the Emperor made sacrifices to Heaven and prayed for
bountiful harvests. The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest is 38 meters high with a diameter of 32 meters. It has a gilded roof, blue glazed tiles, three layers of eves and is an magnificent and impres-
sive structure.
书法，是中国美术之魂，是人、笔、纸、墨的美妙协奏。人借笔，写字言情；纸借墨，岁月留情。传统书法，旨在追求时空中
50. 水书 的永恒；地上水书，突显了记忆的灵性。
Water Calligraphy Calligraphy is the soul of the Chinese fine arts. It is a magnificent “concerto” of man, brush, paper and ink. With a brush the calligrapher writes the characters that express the feelings; with the
paper the ink leaves a permanent record. Traditional calligraphy seeks permanency in time and space; water calligraphy, written on the ground, reflect the evanescent nature of man’s memory.
“圆舞曲传到中国，是在二十世纪三十年代。冒险家们在灯红酒绿的夜上海轻歌曼舞，戏梦人生。八十年代，圆舞曲随着开放
51. 露天舞场 改革再度兴起，对于那代人来说，是西方文明的曙光。
Open Air Dancing The waltz came to China in the 1930s and adventurist young people took up casual dancing in the decadent atmosphere of nighttime Shanghai, living out their dreams. The waltz reappeared fol-
lowing the reform policies of the 1980s and, for the people of that generation, it represented the first glimmer of western culture.
天坛的设计和营造集明、清建筑与园林技术、艺术之大成。构思巧妙的殿宇，是中国古建筑中的罕见杰作；大面积绿林和丰富
52. 夜色 植被，创造出“天人协和”的生态环境。
Evening Light The design and construction of the Temple of Heaven represent the culmination of Ming and Qing architecture and garden artistry. The ingenious design of the Halls is a rare masterpiece of
traditional Chinese architecture. The large expanse of trees and rich vegetation create an ecological environment where “man and nature are in harmony.”
北京规划展览馆位于老北京火车站东侧，建筑面积一万六千平方米，展示面积八千平方米。讲述了这座不朽之都的悠久历史与
53. 俯瞰京城 当代城市规划的成就，展望了北京发展的璀璨明天。
A Bird’s Eye View of The Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall is located to the east of the old Beijing railway station. It covers an area of 16,000 sq. meters with an exhibition space of 8,000 sq. meters. The Exhibition
the Capital City Hall gives a picture of the long history of this enduring city, the achievements of its contemporary urban planning and casts an eye forward to a brilliant future.
菜市场是反映北京人生活变迁的窗口。七十年代只有白菜、土豆、萝卜、大葱；九十年代的菜篮里就已不分时令，应有尽有。
54. 菜市场 今天的菜市场更像一座农展馆，怪菜洋菜目不暇给。
The Vegetable Market The vegetable market is a window on the changing life of a Beijinger. In the 1970s cabbage, potatoes, turnips and green onions were the only things you could buy. In the 1990s the vegetable
basket no longer was conscious of the season, whatever you needed, you had. Today the vegetable market is even more like an agricultural exhibit hall, every kind of vegetable imaginable makes
the eyes glaze over.
官园不仅鱼市有名，花鸟市场也很出名。笼具摊位让人眼花缭乱，鸟笼的材质、形状、风格、功能各异，学问颇多。除了鸟
55. 笼中趣 笼，这里还卖各种各样的蛐蛐笼和蝈蝈笼。
The Lure of the Bird Cage Not only is the Guanyuan fish market famous, its flower and bird market is likewise extremely well known. The stalls with their bird cages dazzle the eyes, and cage materials, construction, style
and functioning are all different, representing a great deal of expertise. In addition to bird cages, cricket cages and katydid cages are also sold here.
天宁寺位于广安门外，是京城现存最古老的寺院。初建于五世纪的北魏，原名“光林寺”。千年来屡遭战火，屡经修缮，寺院
56. 天宁寺 名字也屡次更换。现存寺院为明朝重建、清朝重修。
The Tianning Temple The Tianning Temple is located outside Guang’anmen and is the oldest surviving temple in the capital. Initially built in the 5th century during the Northern Wei, it was originally called the “Guanglin
Temple.” In the year since, the temple was frequently damaged as a result of wars and many times repaired and renovated. The name of the temple also changed several times. The current temple
was rebuilt during the Ming and renovated during the Qing dynasty.

17. 九天普化宫座落在朝阳门外，建于清代（1647年），是主祀雷神的道观。如今殿内的诸雷神均不见踪影，大殿被岳秀市场挡在
57. 对话 背后。对当代人来说，钱神比雷神更灵验。
A Conversation The “Ninth Heaven Puhua Palace” is located outside Chaoyangmen. It was built during the Qing dynasty (in 1647) and was a Taoist temple for the worship of the Gods of Thunder. Today no traces
of the Gods of Thunder remain. The Great Hall was blocked by the Yuexiu market. People today see the God of Money as more effective than the God of Thunder.
蓝岛大厦位于朝阳门外，紧邻区和CBD中央商业区。1993年开始时，不仅曾是京城最火的购物中心。虽然如今的商厦越建越
58. 石狮 多，但大多效仿“以文兴商”的“蓝岛模式”。
Stone Lions The Blue Island Mansion department store is located outside Chaoyangmen immediately adjacent to the embassy district and the central business district When it opened in 1993 it was the most
popular department store in the city. Although today there are increasingly more commercial centers being built, most copy the “Landao model” of “prospering the business through culture.”
北京的城墙原有四道，中央有高九米、厚八米、周长七公里的紫禁城，其外环以高六米厚两米、周长九公里的皇城，皇城外是
59. 城墙祭 二十四公里长的内城，内城外还有从未完工过的外城。
Beijing had four rings of city walls. In the center was the Forbidden City wall, nine meters high with a thickness of eight meters and a circumfrance of seven kilometers. Beyond that was the wall
Requiem for the city wall of the Imperial City, six meters high and two meters thick with a circumfrance of nine kilometers. Next was the Inner Wall, 24 kilometers in circumfrance and finally the Outer Wall, which was
never finished.
东岳庙座落于朝阳门外，初建于六百年前的元代，后几经扩建，成为中国北方最大的道观。东岳庙主祀泰山诸神，为东汉时道
60. 东岳庙 教创始人张道陵天师第三十八代后裔张留孙兴建。
Dongyue Temple The Dongyue Temple is located outside Chaoyangmen. Construction began six hundred years ago during the Yuan dynasty. It was later expanded several times to become the largest Taoist temple
in north China. The Temple is primarily devoted to the gods of the sacred mountain, Taishan. It was built by Zhang Liusun, a decendant in the 38th generation of Master Zhang Daoling, who started
the Taoist religion in the Eastern Han dynasty (25~220 C.E.)
半个多世纪来，北京的老城改造确实留下了不少遗憾，也为今天的规划者提供了代价昂贵的经验。北京城已从二环扩展到六
61. 现代面孔 环，奥运建设更为京城发展提供了千载难逢的契机。
A Modern Face For more than a half-century, the rebuilding of the old city in Beijing has occasioned much regret, and now has provided today’s urban planners with expensive lessons.. The city of Beijing has
expanded from two to six ring roads, and the construction for the 2008 Olympics has given the development of the city a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
东便门角楼，是中国最大最早的城垣角楼，距今已有五百年历史。角楼四面开箭窗一百四十四个，至今留有八国联军的炮弹残
62. 断垣情岛 片和铁沙枪弹。城头杂草丛生，道尽沧桑。
Gathering at the The Dongbian Gate (or Southeast Gate) watchtower is the largest and oldest wall watchtower in China, dating back some 500 years. On the four sides of the tower are 144 archery windows.
Shards of cannon balls and rifle shot used by the Eight-Nation Allied Army during the Boxer Rebellion can still be found here. The top of the wall is overgrown with weeds, telling the history that
Wall Ruins
has long gone with the wind.
骑车上班，途中在报摊前捏一把闸，买一张报纸看看外面的世界……这是老北京共同拥有过的记忆。今天，外面的世界变成了
63. 自行车的命运 里面的世界，自行车逐渐从交通工具变成了健身器。
The Fate of the Bicycle Riding a bike to work, braking at a newspaper stand to buy a paper see what was going on in the outside world...this is a memory all old Beijingers share. Today the “outside world” has become
the “inside world” and the biclycle has gradually become a piece of exercise equipment instead of a means of transportation.
雍和宫是京城规模最大的喇嘛教寺院，初建于1694年，曾是清雍正皇帝继位前的府邸、登基后的行宫。1744年乾隆将其改成喇
64. 雍和宫 嘛庙，集汉满蒙藏艺术于一体，至今香火鼎盛，信众不绝。
The Yonghe Palace The Yonghe Palace is the largest Lama temple in Beijing. First built in 1694, it was the residence of Emperor Yongzheng before he came to the throne and it became the the royal xinggong, or
temporary Palace when the Emperor was away from he capital, after his succession to the throne. In 1744 Emperor Qianlong of the Qing dynasty turned it into a Lama temple combining the artistic
(Lama Temple)
styles of the Han Chinese, Manchus, Mongols and Tibetans. The incense still burns in profusion today and there is no lack of worshipers.

18. 西单，早在明代就因地处交通要道而店铺聚集，到了清末，已形成一条繁华热闹的商业街。1949年后，西单经过几
65. 书城 次大规模改造，现在与王府井、前门合为北京三大商业区。
Book City Xidan Street. was a place where shops had concentrated as early as the Ming dynasty, due to its location at the crossroads of the main transportation routes. By the end of the
Qing dynasty it had become a thriving and prosperous commerical street. After 1949 Xidan Street. underwent several major reconstructions and today it is one of the three major
commerical areas of Beijing, along with Wangfujing and Qianmen.
66. 神坛俗愿 日坛位于朝阳门外，建于明朝（1530年），是皇帝祭祀大明之神“太阳”的地方。1951年扩建并辟为公园。
Exercising at the Altar Ritan, or the” Altar of the Sun,” is located outside Chaoyangmen and was built during the Ming dynasty (in 1530). It was where the Emperor made sacrifices to the Ming (“bright”)
god of the “sun.” In 1951 it was expanded and opened as a public park.
西什库北堂是北京教区最大的天主教堂。原址在中海西畔，为1693年清康熙皇帝为感谢“耶稣会”神甫献药治病而
67. 北堂福音 赐地建造，后几经兴衰，于1888年光绪年间迁到西什库现址。
The Gospel of The Xishiku St. North Catheral is the biggest Catholic church in the parish of Beijing. Originally it was located on the western bank of the Zhonghai having been constructed and
given with the land by Emperor Kangxi in 1693 to the Jesuit Fathers as an expression of gratitude for their medical assistance. After a number of ups and downs, in 1888 it was
the North Cathedral
moved to its present location on Xishiku.
后海位于北海公园后门，湖光掩映，曲径通幽。是老北京风貌保存最好的城区。后海酒吧街因2003年的“非典”突
68. 野茶馆 然火暴，清新的空气和幽雅的环境，吸引来夜不归宿的慕名客。
The Country Tea House Back Lake (Houhai) is located at the back gate of Beihai Park, where sunlight plays upon the lake water and small, winding paths open up to enchanting views. It is the area of
the city that has best preserved the look of old Beijing. Because of the SARS epidemic in 2003, Houhai Bar Street. suddenly became a hot spot as people who were not returning
home were attracted by its reputation of cool, fresh air and elegant surroundings.
三里屯酒吧街位于朝阳区，与七十九国使馆比邻，是借着洋人的人气打造出来的京城著名酒吧街。不要说洋人了，
69. 吧街 就是到北京旅游、办事的外地客，也会来这儿“体验”一把。
Bar Street Sanlitun Bar Street. is in the Chaoyang District and neighbor to 79 foreign embassies. The well-known Beijing street was created with a western influence and any visitor or person
on business who comes to the city, not just foreigners, will come here to “experience” the bar culture..
中山公园位于天安门西侧，原为辽、金时的兴国寺。明代建皇宫时按“左祖右社”的制度改建为社稷坛，祭祀土地
70. 中山公园 神与五谷神。1914年辟为中央公园，1918年改名中山公园。
The Zhongshan Park is located on the western side of Tiananmen. It was the location of the Xingguo Temple (“Temple for National Strength”) during the Liao and Jin dynasties.
Zhongshan Park When the Imperial Palace was built during the Ming dynasty this area was redesigned in accordance with the “left/right” system whereby the Royal Ancestral Temple was located
to the left of the Palace and the Altar of the gods of the soil and grain was located to the right. It was developed as the Central Park in 1914, and renamed as Zhongshan Park in
1918 in memory of Sun Yat-sen.
中华民族园位于亚运村西侧，是集中国各民族的传统建筑、民俗风情、歌舞表演、工艺制作、民族美食以及收藏陈
71. 中华民族园 列于一体的大型综合博物院。
The Chinese Ethnic The Chinese Ethnic Culture Park is located to the west of the Olympic Village. It gathers together the traditional architecture, folk customs, dance performances, handicrafts,
Culture Park cuisine and antiques of the ethnic minorities and displays them in what amounts to a large-scale museum.

19. 天安门是皇城之门，建于1417年，取意“受命于天”、“安邦治民”。天安门广场原为御道直通的封闭式宫廷广
72. 历史舞台 场。1911年辛亥革命后，两侧大门轰然倒塌，广场成为人民广场。
The Historical Stage Tiananmen (“Gate of Heavenly Peace”) was the gate to the Imperial City and was built in 1417. This gate (men) derives its name from the couplet: “Receive the Mandate of Heaven
(tian), Bring peace to the country and governance to the people.” Tiananmen Square was originally a closed-off royal square leading directly to the Royal Way to the Palace. After
the 1911 Revolution both sides of the gate crashed to the ground and the area became a public square.
朝阳公园并不是传统的中式园林，而是一座以绿化为主的、现代化的多功能文娱乐园。2006年10月1日国庆节，这
73. 红旗摇滚 里悬挂起五百七十面国旗庆祝共和国走过的五十七年个春秋。
Red Flags Rocking Chaoyang Park is by no means a traditional Chinese-style tree garden. It is a modern, multi-functional and “green” pleasure garden. On October 1, 2006 for National Day 570 flags
flew here to celebrate the 57th anniversary of the Republic.

20. 长城断想
长
1.
春秋战国，诸侯就为了炫威御敌开始修筑长城。但唯有
平荡群雄、一统中国的秦始皇将以守为攻、以静制动的
军事思想砌筑到秦长城的砖石中。从那之后，每朝帝王
都或长或短地延续过秦始皇的和平梦。不过，长城再
城
坚也未能挡住鞑靼入侵，多少年寒剑冷戟，烽烟不断。
正如伏尔泰所说：“中国的长城证明的是这个民族的极
大耐力。”对历史而言，游客眼中的虎踞龙盘的巍峨壮
景，是一座悲烈千古的和平纪念碑。
1. Thoughts on the Great Wall
断
During the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, (722-221 B.C.E.)
as a show of power and to defend against their enemies, the various feudal
lords began to build “long walls.” But it was only the First Emperor, “Shi
Huangdi,” of the Qin dynasty who, having brought the feudal warlords to
heel and unified the country, used the military ideas of “defense as offense,”
and “passive control” to construct the Qin Great Wall. From that time on-
ward each emperor carried on for longer or shorter periods of time Qin Shi
Huangdi’s dream of peace. But no matter how strong the Wall was, it was
想
unable to stop the invasions of the Tatars and for many years bitter fighting
raged on as the beacon-fires remained lit. As Voltaire once said: “The Great
Wall of China bears witness to the great patience of these people.” From the
historical viewpoint, this tall and rugged, strategic vista, like a “crouching
tiger and coiling dragon,” that greets the visitor’s eye is a tragic monument
to an age-old hope of peace.

22. 金
2. 金山岭
风中的长城，是凄冷的；月下的长城，是孤单的。夜的
无垠，吞噬了塞外的辽远；草的寂静，覆盖了野魂的呜
咽。曾几何时，这里金戈铁马、血色狼烟。幽怨的羌
笛，凝住了将军眉；哀惋的胡笳，刺痛了征夫脸。千百
年后，唯有高悬的明月长叹这壮怀激烈、却徒具虚名的
山
天下雄关。我第一次爬长城，是跟着七十岁的外婆；最
近一次则是陪着七十岁的妈妈。城砖喑哑，不仅暗示我
生命之短暂，还令我惊诧于人类凶蛮的地老天荒。
2. The Golden Ridge
The Great Wall is bleak and cold when the wind blows, and stands lonely
beneath the moonshine. The boundless night envelopes the distance and the
silence of the grass conceals the sobbing of the lost souls wandering the
岭
steppe. Not too very long ago, this area was home to well-equipped armies
and blood-red beacon fires. The plaintive and bitter sound of the Qiang flute
caused the generals and soldiers alike to furrow their brows. The sorrowful
sound of the hujia pipes brought pain to the faces of those who had traveled
far from home. Over a thousand years later only the moon hanging high
in the sky is there to heave a deep sigh for this redoubtable and so-called
“most impregnable pass under Heaven.” The first time I climbed the Great
Wall was with my 70-year-old grandmother; the most recent time was with
my 70-year-old mother. The bricks of the Wall were mute testimony to the
short span of our lives and shocked me into realizing the savage nature of
mankind throughout the ages.

24. 3. 司马台
司
长城是世界之最，司马台长城则是长城之最。天桥
天梯，险中之险，百米索桥，天马行空。这里汇聚
了“险、密、奇、巧、全”于一体，堪称“长城建筑博
物馆”。黎明中雾气氤氲，天光朦胧，一座座烽火楼，
犹如卧龙耸脊。一个人，静悄悄地踩着夜露湿的陡峭石
马
阶朝城头攀爬，轻喘着，兴奋着，感觉象是趁着主神贪
床未醒的空隙、偷偷登上皇椅戏耍的小仙，隔着雾瘴，
玩味地窥伺脚下熙攘的人间。
3. Simatai—Great Wall
The Great Wall is the world’s longest wall, and Simatai is its most impres-
sive section. The “Bridge to Heaven” and the “Stairway to Heaven” are the
height of danger to climb or cross, and the hundred meter cable bridge is
like the Heavenly Steed soaring acorss the sky. Here are collected together
the five characteristics of Simatai: “perilous, dense, marvelous, ingenuous,
台
and complete.” Simatai can properly be called the “Great Wall construction
museum.” At dawn, hazy daylight appears through the morning mist and
the line of watchtowers becomes the spine of a sleeping dragon. A solitary
figure quietly treds the steep stone steps, wet with the evening dew, as he
climbs to the top of the wall, breathing lightly, excited, feeling as if he were a
minor immortal who, taking advantage of a free moment when the Creator,
sleeping late, has not yet awakened, stealthily mounts the throne for fun and,
separated by a thick mist, playfully spies down upon the busy world of men
beneath his feet.

26. 古
4. 古村
土坡，小院，槐柏，柴扉，灰墙，褐瓦，石巷，驴车，
还有坡下的清溪、半山的煤窑、村头公用了几百年的磨
盘和那口纪念碑似的老井。川底下，这个距离京城只有
六十公里的隐秘山村，讲述着四百年的沧桑史。这宅墙
上，清朝“告示”隐约可辨；那厢房后，残留着红漆的
文革标语；村公所前的 告示栏写着“只生一个好”；农
家饭馆，门口贴着时令菜谱。我不禁感叹流年似水，惊
诧于几个时代在同一空间的超现实定格。
村
4. An Ancient Village
A sloping hill, a small courtyard, locust and cypress trees, a rough hewn
door, plastered walls, brown tiles, stone streets, donkey carts plus a stream
at the foot of the slope, a charcoal kiln atop a hill, a public millstone at the
enrance to the village used for several hundred years, and an old well that
looks like a memorial tablet—these are the remains of Chuandixia (“Below-
the-River”). This hidden-away mountain village is located just 60 kilometers
from Beijing and its remains tell a four-hundred-year-old story. On the wall
of a dwelling the writing of an official “Notice” issued during the Qing dy-
nasty can just be made out. Behind a set of rooms the remains of slogans
written in red paint dating from the Cultural Revolution can be seen. In
front of the public square the notice board still reads, “One Child is Best.” In
the farmers’ restaurant the hours and menu are pasted up on the door. I am
deeply struck by this surreal, freeze-frame shot of several eras co-existing
in one and the same space and cannot not help feeling the years flowing by
like water in a stream

28. 老
5. 老宅
北京的四合院并非城里人独享，在被时间遗忘了的川底下
村，居然珍留着近百家。无论迷路到哪儿，我都做梦般望
着一栋栋老宅发呆。院落的布局紧凑而不拘谨，无豪绅气
魄，却精巧别致。考究的门楼上有门簪、下有门墩，旁边
还有供奉门神的神龛。墙上写着“福、禄、寿”，地下铺
着青石紫石，意为“平步青云、紫气东来”。走进门楼，
影壁迎面，正房厢房，青砖灰瓦，石阶雕梁。走在院中，
移步换景，时间在我脚下悄悄伸延。
宅
5. An Old Residence
The Beijing courtyard home was never exclusive to city residents. In Chuan-
dixia, a village forgotten by time, almost 100 of these precious structures
have survived. No matter where I wondered, lost among the winding alleys,
I was transfixed by one after the other of these houses as I gazed at them
like in a dream. The courtyards were compact but not crowded, they did not
exhibit the boldness of the gentry class but were cleverly and interestingly
laid out. The exquisite entry gates had decorative cylinders on top and door
piers at the bottom, and to the side was a shrine to the god who guarded the
house. On the walls were the characters for “prosperity,” “blessings,” and
“longevity.” On the ground blue and purple stones were laid, referring to
the phrases: “quietly walk among the blue (“highest”) clouds; a purple (“i.e.,
“auspicious”) cloud comes from the east.” (“Quietly walk among the blue
clouds” refers to career success in the government, while “a purple cloud
comes from the east” refers to a famous story of Lao Zi crossing China’s
westernmost outpost, the Hanguguan.) Entering the the house gates one
faces the yingbi, or inside screen wall, the primary and secondary rooms, the
blue and gray tile, the stone steps and carved pillars. As I enter the courtyard
the scene changes, time silently stretches out before my feet.

30. 窗
6. 窗影
精美多变的窗棂，是老宅的灵魂。木窗的图案有双灯笼
格、斜棱格、回字格、条形格和正方格；窗户的式样有
推拉窗、双层窗、支摘窗，即便是在同一座宅院，雕花
木窗的设计也别具匠心，既有变化，又有统一。即使
到了二十一世纪，川底下人仍爱糊窗纸，起风时瑟瑟做
响，落雨后水渍班驳。淡淡的日光自镂空的雕窗漫入，
在青石板地上描了一幅画，涂了一层腊。
影
6. Shadows Through the Windows
The refined and varied window grills are the soul of the old residences. Pat-
terns include double laterns, beveled edges, concentric squares, straight
lines and simple squares. As for the types of windows, there are push-pull
windows, double layered windows, removable windows, and although in
the same residence the design of the carved windows has a unique char-
acter, there are variations and unity at the same time. Right down to the
21st century the people of Chuandixia are still fond of pasting up window
paper. When the wind blows it makes a rustling sound, and after a rain
it is spotted with rain water. The weak rays of the sun come through the
open spaces of the carved window, sketching a picture on the granite floor
like a layer of wax.

32. 冰
7. 冰宫
中国的冰都在哈尔滨，京城的冰宫在龙庆峡。水晶的
宝塔，彩色的龙宫，透明的长城，展翅的冰鹰。不用
青石、瓦当，不用铁钉、木楔，冰雕艺人们在坚硬的水
中，再现了中国传统建筑的形神。曾几何时，老北京
还在三九天里到什刹海伐冰窖冰，为了能在酷夏驱热避
暑；今天的北京人何止有了冰箱冰柜，还能携家带口地
到冰宫仙境里走一走。
宫
7. The Ice Palace
China’s ice capital is Harbin but Beijing has its own Ice Palace in the
Longqingxia. Ice crytstal pagodas, the multi-colored palace of the Dragon
King, a transparent Great Wall and an ice eagle spreading its wings all
greet the visitor who goes there. Without granite, eave tiles, without iron
nails or wooden wedges, the ice sculptors bring forth the form and spirit
of traditional Chinese architechture in the hard blocks of ice. Not all that
long ago, old Beijingers would make a trip to the Shichahai in the depth
of winter to cut ice for their ice cellars so that during the brutal summer
months they could keep the heat at bay. Modern Beijingers, with their
refridgerators and freezers, can still take the family for an outing to the
fairyland of the Ice Palace.

34. 银
8. 银山塔林
去银山，冬季最美。悬崖峭壁漆黑如铁，雪后山岭银
装素裹。九百年前，这里曾是辽金的佛教圣地，“铁
壁银山”——被列为明朝的燕京八景。早在一千三百
年前，这里就有唐代高僧讲经说法，筑坛立寺，金代
山
时僧尼多达五百。高僧多了，圆寂的墓塔逐渐密集成
林。千年之中，佛地也免不了受俗世侵扰，寺庙几建
几毁，墓塔越来越少。夏日的杂草，冬日的冰雪，听
幸存者讲述因果与轮回。
8. The Yinshan Pagoda Forest
塔
Winter is the most beautiful season for visiting Yinshan. The inky black clifts
look like iron, the mountain ridge wrapped in silvery snow. Nine hundred
years ago this was a sacred place for Buddhism during the Liao and Jin dy-
nasties. “Iron walls and silver mountains”--it is one of the Eight Great Sights
of Yanjing (Beijing) dating from the Ming dynasty. One thousand three hun-
dred years ago eminent monks came to the area to expound on the Buddhist
林
sutras, alters and temples were built. During the Liao and Jin dynasties there
were as many as 500 monks and nuns living here. As the number of eminent
monks increased, the tomb pagodas of the deceased gradually grew to a
forest. In the thousand years since that time this Buddhist ground inevitably
suffered the depredations of the mundane world, the temples were almost
all destroyed and the tomb pagodas decreased in number as time went on.
The weeds that grow in the summer and the ice and snow that winter brings
speaks to us of karma and the cycle of rebirth.

36. 蟠
9. 蟠桃园
在中国，桃子象征长寿，给老人祝寿就送寿桃。送寿桃
的数量有不同的讲究，有的地方要送九枚，意为“八仙
献桃”；有的地方按寿诞计算，六十大寿就送六十只。
传说中，3月3日是王母娘娘诞辰，她请天上诸仙参加蟠
桃园盛会。蟠桃园共种桃树三千六百株，三千年才结一
次果，吃一枚能延寿六百岁。相比之下，平谷桃园不但
桃
种桃十六万株，而且一年一熟。因此不难想象：来这里
踏青的北京人，总会有一股成仙的感觉。
9. Garden of Immortal Peaches
In China the peach symbolizes long life. To wish an old person long life,
one gives a “birthday peach,” or “long life peach.” There are different views
on just how many to give. In some places they say you must give nine, the
idea here being that “the Eight Immortals offer a peach.” Some places give
a number related to the person’s age. Someone celebrating their 60th birth-
园
day, for example, receives 60 peaches. It is said (in the famous legend of the
Monkey King) that March 3 is the birthday of the Queen Mother goddess,
and on that day she invites all the Immortals in Heaven to participate in the
Grand Banquet of Immortal Peaches. Her Garden of Immortal Peaches is
planted with 3,600 trees that bear fruit just once every 3,000 years, and
eating one of these peaches can extend your life 600 years. By compari-
son, the Pinggu peach orchard has some 160,000 trees that bear fruit every
single year. No wonder Beijingers who come here for an outing always feel
like they have become Immortals.

38. 10. 明月吟
明
卢沟晓月，是多少带文人咏诗赏月的燕京佳景，直到今
天，桥头的碑亭里仍镌刻着乾隆皇帝的御书。八百年明
月照桥，从未厌倦对古代工匠们绝技的赞美；五百头石
月
狮泣血，难以清洗“七·七事变”的国耻民辱。京城里
车水马龙，歌舞升平；卢沟桥枯苇临风，河床干涸。明
月依然照桥，历史不容忘记。
10. The Moon’s Lament
How often has the “Moon Over Lugou at Daybreak” inspired poets to write
the praises of this wonderful sight of “Yanjing” (Beijing). Even today in the
吟
Tablet Pavilion the steles engraved with the characters written by Emperor
Qianlong remain. For eight hundred years the moon shined down on the
Marco Polo Bridge, with never a gap in the constant praise of the con-
sumate skill of those ancient workers who built it. But the tears of blood of
the 500 stone lions can hardly wipe clean the national shame and humili-
ation of the “Marco Polo Incident.” The capital city is full of people, they
laugh and dance in a time of peace, while the dried-up rushes at the bridge
are left to face the wind, and the river channel has run dry. The moon contin-
ues to shine down upon the bridge, but history remembers.

40. 禅
11. 禅境
走出颐和园赏雪的长廊，绕过西太后夜宴的石舫，踏着
岸边小径的松软细雪，无意中猛抬头：斜松寒岭，冰湖
木舟，晨光倒影……仿佛误入了古人诗境，乍醒于杜甫草
堂。“窗含西岭千秋雪，门泊东吴万里船。”我听到诗
人在捻髯低吟。其实，这并非梦境，只不过是昆明湖一
角的冬日小景。静悄悄的万寿山西麓，足印留下心迹，
诗情带着禅意。
11. The Realm of Quiet Contemplation
境
Walking along the galleries of the Summer Palace admiring the snowy land-
scape, passing the stone boat where Empress Dowager Cixi once hosted
evening banquets, you a small pathway dusted with snow and, unconscious-
ly, you abruptly raise your head. Ahead of you, slanting pine trees atop a
wintry hill, a wooden boat on a frozen lake, the morning sun reflected on the
ice...you seem to have mistakenly wandered into the world of ancient Chi-
nese poetry and suddenly awakened in Tu Fu’s thatched cottage. “Framed
in my window, a thousand autumn snows on the western ridges; tied at my
gate, a boat to take me ten thousand miles east to Wu.” The poet chants
in a low voice as he strokes his whiskers. But no, this is not a dreamscape,
just a winter’s scene tucked away in a corner of Kunming Lake. On the quiet
western slope of Longevity Hill (Wanshoushan) memories of the past have
left their traces, and poetry brings with it a sense of quiet contemplation.

42. 12. 雪霁笛声
雪
冬日的颐和园，雪霁的苏州街，积雪的后山，冰封的后
湖。冷凝的寂静中，从哪儿飘来的一阵短笛？灰色的砖
墙，大红的门窗，红绿的灯笼，花彩的旌幡。纷乱的足
霁
迹里，哪个是不远万里来寻梅的人？时节虽异，景物依
然，夏日的喧嚣虽然不再，但让这位来自布达佩斯的摄
影师欣喜的是：又遇到了这位吹笛人。这是风吹旗卷的
曲，这是雪落尘埃的歌。
12. The Sound of a Flute
笛
After a Snowfall
The Summer Palace on a winter’s day. Suzhou Street turned white after
a snowfall, Back Hill (Houshan), covered with snow, Back Lake (Houhu)
locked in ice—in this frozen stillness from somewhere the sound of a piccolo
comes floating on the breeze. Gray brick walls, scarlet doors and windows,
red and green lanterns and colorful banners meet the eye. And the traces
of all the people who have been here...which one did not come from afar
to “look for plum flowers in the snow”? Through the different seasons, the
声
scene remains the same. Although the tumult of the summer is heard no
longer now, the photographer from Budapest is overjoyed: he has found his
flutist. The tune is of breezes and pennants blowing in the wind, of snow
falling and scattering in the air.

44. 13. 元宵节
钢筋水泥的雨林，蚕食着京城的红墙绿瓦；宽阔的柏油
元宵节
马路，将小胡同的记忆碾到地下。太阳照样东升西落，
日子依旧四季轮转，正月十五元宵节，只不过锅里煮的
元宵从手摇的变成了机制的；无论今春的流行色是什
么，灯会上的男女仍大红大绿，猪八戒将媳妇背到了都
市，面对海潮般涌来的大厦，几多惊叹？几多尴尬？
13. The Lantern Festival
A forest of steel reinforcement bars and cement encroaches on the the red
walls and green tiles of the capital city, and broad macadamized roads bury
beneath them the memories of the small hutongs. But the sun, as ever, rises
in the east and sets in the west, and the seasons follow one upon the other
as they always have. The only difference on this Lantern Festival Day, the
15th of the First Lunar Month, is that the dumplings boiling in the pots are
swirled around by machine instead of by hand. Whatever the year’s popular
color, at the Lantern Festival the boys and girls are dressed in red and green,
and Zhu Bajie (Pigsy, a character in the Chinese classic novel Journey to the
west) carries his bride on his back into the city. Met by a sea of tall skyscrap-
ers, how amazed he must be, how overwhelmed he must feel!

46. 罗
14. 罗汉皇帝
碧云寺殿堂雄伟，依傍山势，层层迭起，庄严肃穆，
松柏参天，浓荫蔽日。金刚宝座塔群峰环抱、俯瞰京
城；北院幽静碧绿，泉水淙淙；南院罗汉堂最为著
汉
名，五百罗汉木雕漆金，神态各异。细心人会发现，
众罗汉中只有一位身披铠甲、头戴战盔、丝毫没有出
家人样子的“破邪见尊者”。这竟是兴建罗汉堂的乾
隆自己！想来，信佛的皇帝不仅希望自己拥有佛心，
还幻想自己拥有佛寿吧？
14. The Arhat Emperor
皇
The hall of the Biyun (“Asure Clouds”) Temple is imposing, rising in mul-
tiple storeys against the side of a mountain. Solemn is appearance, the
pine and cypress trees touching the sky, their deep shadows obscuring the
sun. The pagoda of the temple soars high above and embraces it, giving
a view of the capital city below. The north courtyard is serene and asure
green, the spring water sings its murmuring song. The south courtyard is
home to the famous Hall of the Arhat with the carved and gold-painted
帝
wooden statues of the 500 Arhat, each one with a unique countenance.
The careful observer will discover that only one of the Arhat, “revered for
refuting heresy,” is wearing body armor and a helmut and not at all look-
ing like a monk. This is none other than the one who built the Hall of the
Arhat himself, Emperor Qianlong! So, did the Emperor who was follower
of Buddha not only hope to have a “heart of the Buddha” but also imagine
themselves as having Buddha-like immortality?

48. 衣
15. 衣冠冢
在碧云寺金刚宝座塔的券洞里，安放着孙中山先生的衣
冠冢，游人到此，无不肃立，追缅这位救国的伟人。然
而，许多游客并不知道，就在这金刚宝座塔的基座下，
还埋着一个当年被康熙皇帝平掉的衣冠冢。这另一个衣
冠
冠冢的主人不是别人，正是被崇祯皇帝碎尸、遭万古唾
骂的明代权监魏忠贤。碧云寺两座衣冠冢命运的戏剧性
对照，说明历史终归是公正的。
15. Personal Effects Tomb
Within the arched enclosure of the “Diamond Cutter Throne” pagoda at
冢
Biyun Temple lies the “personal effects tomb” of Sun Yat-sen. Visitors who
come here stand with respect as they contemplate what this great man, the
savior of the nation, did. But many visitors are unaware that underneath the
foundation of this pagoda there used to be another personal effects tomb,
this one was destroyed by the Emperor Kangxi. This tomb is that of none
other than the powerful Ming dynasty eunuch Wei Zhongxian, whom the
Emperor Chongzhen executed and whose name will live forever in infamy.
The two personal effects tombs that lie here offer a dramatic contrast and
show that, in the end, history is just and fair.

50. 与
16. 与春天合影
春天是最富表情的季节，难怪所有人都争抢着跑来与她
合影。晴天碧水，春影如织，花团锦簇，桃红柳绿。熙
春
攘的探春者与横流的春色融到一起。昨夜的风还很凉
彻，今日的天已温热融融，世上人的血脉好象都连接到
一颗心脏，世界万物似乎都通过一只肺呼吸。复苏，复
苏！春天虽象妩媚女人一样嬗变，但人们并不吝啬为她
付出代价。哪怕只是瞬间的拥有，哪怕只是在照片上。
天
16. Spring Photos
Spring is the prettiest season. No wonder everyone vies with each other
to get a picture taken with her. Clear skies and blue water, a tapestry of
shadows cast by the sun, a gorgeous array of multicolored flowers, peach
trees and willows dressed in pink and green—this is the scene that greets
the eye. The streams of people out enjoying the spring blend in with the riot
合
of spring colors. The air is still chilled from last night’s breezes as the day
turns comfortably warm, everyone’s heart seems to beat together, every-
thing seems to breathe in unison. Revival! Although spring is as fickle as a
charming woman, people are not stingy when it comes to paying the price,
though it be only for a fleeting moment or only in a photograph.
影

52. 绿
17. 绿岛
如果说，十七孔桥是昆明湖的银色项链；那么郁郁葱葱
的南湖岛，则是一枚翡翠的项坠。从这里眺望万寿山顶
的佛香阁，俯瞰昆明湖上的彩色游船，细观水面的掌心
纹理，猜测那条是爱情线。假山叠错，密树遮天，山色
如画，水波如诗。情人们甘愿做上钩的鱼，渴望做私奔
的仙。尽管美景下的爱情显得很俗，可是再俗的爱情，
对于坠落情网的人来说，都同样幸福。
岛
17. Green Island
If the 17-Arch Bridge is the silver necklace of Kunming Lake, the luxurient
Nanhu Island is an emerald pendant. From there you can look out at the Tower
of Buddhist Incence atop Longevity Hill, get a bird’s eye view of the colorful
pleasure boats on Kunming Lake, inspect the “palm lines” of the water and
guess which ripple line represents love. The man-made hills stand in layers,
the thickly planted trees obscure the sky, the color is like in a picture and the
ripples are like a poem. Romantic couples are ready to be ensnared and long
to elope as Immortals. Although love sentiments in such a beautiful setting
may seem trite, for those caught in the net the happiness is just a real.

54. 京
18. 京仙
只有时间，能将历史积淀得凝重，惟有月色，会把肉体
蛀蚀变轻。子夜里，一个人走在鼓楼后的老街，墙皮斑
驳的四合院墙，枝杈虬曲的枯槐病柳，当一千七百万市
民坠入梦乡的时辰，我摇身变成一位老北京的仙人，看
看祖上的老屋是否还在？听听门墩下的蟋蟀是否还唱？
月披风晕，古道浮尘，趁着鼓楼沉睡未醒，踩着无声的
影子，看看我的老北京。
仙
18. Fairy God of Beijing
Time imparts the dignity of history but it is moonlight that, like moths eat-
ing away at a heavy blanket, reveals the bare bones that lie below. Wan-
dering the old streets behind the Drum Tower alone at midnight, the peal-
ing, mottled walls of the courtyard homes, the curled branches of the dead
pagoda trees and the diseased willows...when 17 million inhabitants have
drifted into dreamland, suddenly I am transformed and walk the streets as
the great men of old Beijing once did before me. Are the old roofs of the
ancestors still there? Do the crickets in the door mounds still sing their
song? The moon wrapped in a halo, the old streets with dust hanging in
the air...as the Drum Tower lies deep in slumber, my feet walk among the
silent shadows as I look at Old Beijing.

56. 19. 太后迎宾
太
一百五十年前，一个叫狗子的河北小子到天津闯荡，摆
了一个包子摊。他包的包子形如菊花、口感柔软、鲜香
后
不腻，引得全城人跑来品尝，忙得狗子只做包子不理客
人，从此得到“狗不理”的绰号。后来，袁世凯把“狗
不理”包子献入皇宫，慈禧膳毕大悦：“山中走兽云
中燕，腹地牛羊海底鲜，不及狗不理香矣，食之长寿
也。”就因为这一句夸奖的话，不仅使“狗不理”进了
京城，还使西太后自己落魄成包子铺的“迎宾小姐”。
迎
19. The Empress Welcomes Customers
A hundred and fifty years ago a young Hebei boy named Gouzi (“Doggie”
in Chinese) came to Tianjin to seek his fortune and set up a shop selling
“baozi” (steamed buns). His baozi were shaped like chrysanthemum flow-
ers, tender, fragrant and not greasy, and soon the whole city was beating a
path to his shop door to eat them. So busy was Gouzi, he spent all his time
making the baozi and ignored his customers. Hence he acquired the nick-
宾
name “Goubuli” (“Gouzi pays no attention”). Later Yuan Shikai presented
some “Goubuli” baozi to the Palace, and upon finishing one of them, the
Empress Dowager Cixi said, “No animal in the mountains, no swallow in the
clouds, no cattle or sheep on the frontier, no food in the sea can compare
with the taste of a Goubuli baozi. Eating them gives long life.” Such effusive
praise not only brought “Goubuli” baozi into the capital city, the Empress
Dowager herself became a kind of “Maître d'” for the baozi shop.

58. 20. 消逝中
消
我是在胡同长大的孩子。大门道、上马石、门墩、门
杠、胡同口，自然是我孩提时代的重要语汇；还有捉蛐
蛐，逮知了，粘蜻蜓，玩弹弓……如今，不仅儿时的游戏
轮为了记忆，就连随手能画出每个细节的学院胡同一号
四合院，也早被喧嚣的金融街埋葬在地下。当我看到匈
牙利朋友的这幅摄影作品时，那灰墙狭巷和寂静不安的
紫红色天空，突然感到一股“行将逝去”的无语悲壮。
逝
同时庆幸，弟弟救下的两扇雕花大门，仍静静地躺在塔
楼的阳台上。
20. Fading Away
I grew up in the “hutongs” (“alleyways”) of Beijing. “Entryway,” “mounting
stone,” “door pier,” “door staff,” “hutong enrance” -- all these are important
中
words from my youth. And catching crickets, cicadas, and dragonflies, using
a slingshot....Today, not only is the pass-time of my youth just a memory,
even the courtyard house at No. 1 Xueyuan Hutong, whose every detail I
could sketch at the drop of a hat, has been buried beneath bustling Jinrong
Street. When I see these photos done by our Hungarian friend, those grey
walls and narrow passageways and quiet but restless purple-red sky, sud-
denly a wordless, melancholy feeling of “ imminent passing” comes over
me. Still, it is a time to celebrate some good fortune. The two carved front
gate doors my younger brother rescued are resting peacefully on the upper
storey balcony.

60. 21. 三轮车
三
三轮车是老北京的出租车，以前送煤、送菜、送老人看
病、送孩子上学，北京人很难离开他。今天的三轮车成
了风俗游的特色工具，拉着客人在故宫周围的小胡同里
穿行。上了年纪的老北京，常会热心地凑过来闲侃，吹
轮
牛之中也不乏典故，更有掩不住的京城人自豪。不过，
三轮车刺耳的车铃和车夫们清一色的黄马甲，也未免有
股“伪民俗”味道。所以，可能的话，你最好还是卸掉
个轱辘，一个人骑自行车串一串胡同迷宫。
21. The Pedicab
The pedicab is Old Beijing’s taxi. In the past for delivering coal or food, get-
ting old people to see a doctor, or sending kids off to school, it was hard for
车
a Beijinger to escape it. Today the pedicab has become a charastistic item
for scenic tours, squeezing visitors through the small hutongs surrounding
the Imperial Palace. There you will see Elderly Old Beijingers who often
enthusiastically come together and start up leisurly conversations, with no
lack of literary allusions in their spinning of tall tales, even less are they
able to supress their pride in being residents of the capital city. But the ear
piercing sound of the pedicab bell and the monotone organge vests of the
drivers cannot help but give the sense of a “pseudo folk custom.” So, if pos-
sible, you’re best off just “grabbing a couple wheels” and wending your way
through the labyrinth of hutongs yourself on a bicycle.

62. 胡
22. 胡同与井
胡同一词初见于元曲。七百年前，关汉卿在《单刀会》
里写过一句戏词：“杀出一条血胡同来”；元杂剧《张
生煮海》里也有句对话：“你家住哪里？”“我家住砖
塔儿胡同。”砖塔胡同在西四南大街，至今未变。胡同
同
来自元朝的皇族语言，是蒙语“井”的谐音。元大都的
中轴线傍水而划，皇宫依水而建，民宅因井成巷。直到
今天，以井命名的胡同还有四五十个。北京有个屎壳郎
胡同，听起来滑稽，但译成蒙语则是“甜水井”……
22. Hutongs and Wells
与
The word “hutong” first appeared in Yuan drama texts. Seven hundred years
ago the playwright Guan Hanqing in his play Meeting the Enemies Alone
(Dandao hui) wrote: “He fought his way out of a bloody hutong.” Also in
Zhang Boils the Sea (Zhang sheng zhe hai) there is the following dialogue:
“Where do you live?” “I live in Brick Tower hutong.” Brick Tower (zhuanta)
hutong is located on Xisi Street South today, just where it has always been.
The word “hutong” comes from the imperial language of the Yuan court. It
井
is an approximation using Chinese characters of the Mongolian pronouncia-
tion for the word “well.” The central axis of the capital city the Yuan built,
Dadu, was marked out along the water. The Yuan palace was constructed
in accordance with the geography of the water, and private homes were
built in lanes with wells. Even today, there are some 40 to 50 hutongs that
take their names from the word “well.” Beijing has a hutong named “Dung
Beetle”, which sounds comical, but in fact it is a phonetic transliteration for
the Mongolian “Sweet Water Well.”