study material for figure study

1. Arrangement
of
figures
By: Neha Arora
Assistant Professor
NGF College of Engineering & Technology
www.ngfcet.com

2. Introduction
• All designs for weaving, formed with in a rectangular base to
produce a weaver’s repeat.
• The finalized shapes themselves can be placed in varying
relationships one with another.
• When the design is constructed within the repeat in the
form of geometric, or floral, or abstract is – defined as lattice
or net.
• The lattice may be of varying forms.
• Finally designed figure represents the full repeat.
• The designer is free to arrange the units in the most effective
manner.

3. UNIT REPEATING DESIGNS
• The term unit repeating is applied
to designs in which the unit figure
and the repeat are the same.
• Unit repeating designs are well
balanced, all-over ,and small in size.
• The designs consist of combinations
of different forms that are grouped
together within the repeat area.

4. • The unit repeating principle of
arrangement is very suitable
for an abstract type of
ornament.
• Joined correctly when
repeated.
• The unit repeating principle is
particularly applicable in the
construction of designs for
cloths.

5. THE DROP DEVICE
• It enables the designer
to place two similar
units in different
relationship to one
another.
• Half drop designs in
one half of the
complete repeat is
exactly the same as
that in the other half.

6. • The repeat is divided into four
equal parts by bisecting it in both
directions the ornament in
alternate sections are exactly the
same.
• The unit comprises one half of
the complete design, taken either
vertically or horizontally.
• One half of the repeat can be
produced from the other half by
“half dropping” the unit
longitudinally, or by moving the
unit one half the width of the
repeat.

7. Half drop bases
• The half drop principle is applied on the following bases: the
diamond, the ogee, the diagonal, waved line, and the rectangle.

8. The diamond base
• The diamond base design is used in the
construction of any form of half- drop
design, that are more or less diamond-
shaped.
• The four triangular spaces at the corners
of the repeat.
• The second diamond space is equal in
size to the first.
• The correct position of the second figure
is obtained by marking the corners of the
first diamond on the tracing paper.

9. • A line in the first diamond is
crossed by a portion of the first
figure the corresponding line in
the second diamond will be
crossed by a similar portion of the
second figure in exactly the same
relative position.
• Two or more repeats should be
traced in each direction in order
that it may be conveniently seen
where bare places require to be
filled.

10. The ogee base
• The form of ogee is a variation of the
diamond base.
• The ogee may be in the form of open
end, closed end, interlacing, or in
combination of open and close or
interlacing .
• The ogee lines similarly divides the
repeat into two sections, which are of the
same shape and size.
• The figure which is placed in one space
being traced into the other space in
exactly the same relative position.

11. • The curved lines of the ogee
are used, for the construction
of designs of a graceful
flowing character.
• Designs based on the ogee
are especially suitable for
hanging fabrics.
• The ogee base is used in the
construction of drop designs
of a symmetrical character.

12. The diagonal waved line
base
• The diagonal waved line base are
the arrangement of figures which
run in a diagonal direction.
• The length of diagonal repeat is
indicated when constructing the
style, and the waved line is drawn.
• Ornament(design) built upon the
waved line before the boundary
lines are made.
• The angle of inclination of the line
will be varied, to suit the form of
the figure and to fit the width of
repeat that a given jacquard
design.

13. The rectangular base
• It is a arrangement of given detached
figures works on the half drop
principle.
• It is necessary to indicate both the
width and the length of the repeat.
• The length of the repeat can be varied,
during the construction of the sketch.
• For the construction a horizontal line
and three vertical lines are drawn on
the paper.
• Then tracing of the figures to base line
on first and third vertical lines is done
at the suitable position.

14. • The second horizontal line is drawn at
half of the distance of the first figure
and the third figure is traced to the
second base line.
• Divided four equal rectangles show the
space occupied by one repeat.
• Portions of the figures are traced at
the top bottom and at the sides the
details of the design are also added
and traced.

15. Half drop stripe designs
• In stripe designs the figure is mostly placed at
a different level in adjacent stripes.
• Prevent the masses from falling into line with
each other horizontally.
• Same ornament is used in each figured stripe.
• A complete design extends over the width of
the two stripes.
• In sketching a stripe design, after drawing
first stripe, correct position in the second
stripe is found on the rectangular principle by
dividing the repeat horizontally into two
equal parts.

16. Defective half drop designs
• The design has a monotonous appearance.
• The arrangement causes twill lines of figure.
• A diagonal effect is desired.
• Only symmetrical, or well balanced figures
are suitable for the half drop system of
construction.
• An inclined figure turns or reverse in the
intermediate position.
• The half drop principle is employed in the
arrangement of two figures.
• It is necessary to draft it in the same
manner as a unit repeating figure.

17. DROP REVERSE DESIGNS
• The drop reverse arrangement is similar to
the half drop.
• The unit of the design is contained twice in
the repeat.
• The ornament in one half, being the same
as that in the other half.
• The difference between the two systems is
that in the half drop the figure is turned
same way, whereas in the drop reverse the
figure in one half is reversed or turned in
the opposite direction to that in the other
half.

18. Diamond and ogee bases
• The diamond or ogee base
both are combined together.
• The design drawn in the one
section is placed in the other
section in exactly the same
relative position to the base
lines, but with the tracing
turned over.
• The diamond and ogee shapes
are best adapted to the
construction of designs in
which the lines of the figure
follow the base lines.

19. The vertical waved line base
• Particularly suitable to use in the
construction of designs of a
graceful flowing character.
• Construction of designs in which
the figure runs continuously in
stripe form.
• The base lines provide a suitable
foundation to arrange the parts of
the ornament of the figure.
• In the same relationship to each of
the half line, enables a well
balanced design to be produced.

20. Drop-reverse stripe designs
• In each stripe of the design is
dropped one- half of the repeat,
and turned over from side to side.
• The ornament in the second stripe
is dropped one fourth of the
repeat from its position in the first
stripe.
• The complete repeat in width is
extending over two stripes.
• By the division of the repeat into
suitable segments the method can
be adapted to designs repeating
over three or four stripes with one
third or one quarter drop
arrangements.

21. Vertical reversing of figures
• The style of figure is much
heavier on one side than the
other.
• It is very difficult to arrange on
the drop reverse principle by
turning it over from side to side.
• To get proper balance of the
ornament, so that the heavy
sides coming together in one
line, and the light sides in
another line.

22. • The difficulty of arranging such
styles can be got by turning the
figure from top to bottom in the
second position.
• It is useful where the figure is
required to appear the same
way up, when viewed from
either end of the cloth.
• It may also be used when some
prominent shape occurs at one
side of the figure.

23. Combinationof half-dropand drop-reverse
systems
• When the figure is badly balanced
the system of arrangement is
particularly useful in securing even
distribution of the ornament.
• The figure is used eight times in the
repeat.
• It is turned in four directions, and the
complete design is a combination of
the half drop and the drop reverse
arrangements.

24. • The multiple reversing of the figure prevents the flowers from
falling into lines either horizontally or vertically.
• The inclusion of eight figures in the repeat makes the design
less stiff and formal than, when two figures are used.
• Very large figures cannot be woven because the figuring
capacity of the jacquard is practically reduced by one half.

25. THANKS