1. HARSH PRECIOUS METALS (P) Ltd.,Mumbai
…the small scale unit which has been witnessing large scale
technology transfers and continuous innovations in the field of gems
and jewellery …
THE MAN BEHIND VijayGopani
VijayGopani – a name to be reckonedwith,notonlyinthe gemsandjewelleryindustry.Vijayisequally
an establishedname inhissocial andfriends’circles.While the gemsandjewelleryworldhaspraisedhim
for hisindustriousnature,indomitable spiritandadventurousprowess,social circleshave praisedhimfor
hisbenevolence,bigheartednessandanextremelycooperative spirit.All thruhislife,Vijayhasbeen
,withoutanyargument,agogetterentrepreneurof unique spiritandenthusiasm.Stronginhis
convictions,determinedover histargets,Vijayknowshow tomanage thingsinthe mostdisorganized
systemtoo.A teamleaderanda personwithfarsightedness.
That was in 1984,the inquisitivemind,inventiveand investigative in nature picked
up lots right in his firstvisit to Japan for a machine show.In a group of twenty he
and his friend were the only non machine industry members.Stillthen he adopted
and grasped hugeamount of technical know how and admits his gratefulness to
the visit,long 29 years ago.Hestill recalls the solid memory of Japaneseworking
discipline and their working with 100% efficiency.
That tour opened his door to the world’s largestconglomeration of
machines,technology and innovations – the cluster of countries which has been
on the frontline of such industriousness,Korea,Thailand(Bangkok),Hong
Kong,Singaporeetc..wereall part of his maiden trip abroad.Hewith a chuckleand
an wink in his eye says,”thatwas my firstboarding an aircraft”.Sincethen Vijay
has been travelling so much but the memory of his glorious maiden trip has
remained unstinted.The endless efforts,agonizing struggleto get things new,of
advantage,of lesser costand of higher efficiency was always in the mind of
Vijay,days in and days out.
2. In the meanwhile he got his Diploma in Export Management.Justa few number of
institutes offered such courses thosedays.Vijay obtained his qualification from
Indo American Society.,Mumbai.
While studying possibilities of bringing the world next to Idian entrepreneurs and
technocrats,Vijay gotnoticed by no other than one of the largest and most
reputed international exhibition organizers of thosedays,Headway TradeFair
Ltd.,Hong Kong.Itdid not take much time for them to estimate the capacity of
their new found professionalfropmIndia.Obvious aftermath was immediate
appointment of Vijay Gopani as their exclusiverepresentative for their gems and
jewellery shows.Itwas around late ‘80s and early ‘90s when Indian jewellery
industry was justgetting up fromits nascent stage.Vijay Gopanicrafted his name
within those early birds and as on today holds the unique achievement of having
his exhibition stall,continuous for last 25 years at the nation’s largestgems and
jewellery fairs – The Indian InternationalJewellery Shows.
Vijay did not look back thereafter.Severaltrips abroad on technical as well
commercial missions.Attending international fairs,dimea dozen Vijay soon
became a prominentIndian representativeat such international meets.Be it at
Paris,London or Milan.Basel,Istanbulor Colombo,cairo and Bangkok,Vijay had
visited them all.
Vijay’s association and working in close quarter with world famous publishers and
event organizers,Miller FreemanGroup and representing Jewellery News Asia
started following in rapidity.He was the chief representative of National
Jewellery,USA.
Apart fromVijay’s acumen in identifying and thereafter negotiating business
deals,he had an immense capacity to organize members under a roof of common
cause.Hestrikingly displayed his enormous strength in management and
networking during the time of forming GIJMA and or during introduction of Sarin
technology in India when Indians werestill not aware of the height of the sky,they
could reach.Fittings and Findings werenot much known then specially to Indian
industry.
3. His hunger for technology transfer was alivesince early ‘80s.Hehas theprivilege
to work with the Chairman of Mitsubishi,,
His association with Gems and Jewellery Export PromotionCouncil(GJEPC) is
since ages.Hewas one of the members under their Exhibition Committee.
When Vijay started to export,heleft no stones unturned.Heparticipated at fairs
of Bangkok,Basel,Hong Kong,Bangkokand Singapore.His alloys weredisplayed at
Baselworld.
His organizing seminars has remained another aspect of his professional
brilliance.Immaculately designed he has launched many seminars on various
techno commercial aspects of the industry.Cities like Mumbai,Pune,New
Delhi,Kolkata,Chennai,Hyderabad and Bangalorehavewitnessed Vijay Gopani’s
capacity.
As his father headed the fashion jewellery sector,their strong hold always,whose
brand logo is still extraordinarily famous and popular amongst the present day’s
manufacturers,a testimony to their market prowess even after about 30/35 years.
“Honesty is the best policy”
Vijayinhislongcareerspreadingoverfour(?) decadeshave witnessedmanyupsanddownsbuthis
steadinesshasalwaysbeenonqualityanduncompromisinghonesty.He probablytrustedthe policyof
“honestyisthe bestpolicy”andadheredtothat.
While hiscompanygrewfroma small scale unit,he kepthissharpeye on foreigntechnologywherever
theywere of superiorvalue andhadcompatibilitywithournational needs.Vijaywassharpalwaysto
bringin highvalue technologyandprocesses,never compromisedqualityandalwayspaidvalue forthe
same.He detestedobtaininganythingfree inlife.Hepracticedthe same inbusinesstoo.
Vijay Gopani’ssaga from a tinystart with his dad,D.C.Gopani,yearsback, isa splendidstoryof
exploration,investigation,seriousresearchandan incomparable zeal to bring in somethingnewto the
country.
While doingthathe got collaborationsandbusinesscontractssignedwithclientsfromvarious
countries,specially fromGermany.Inhispursuitof highertechnologyandeducationonhissubjects,he
4. workedwithhisforeigncounterpartsandpartners,learnedtheirsubjectspracticallyworkingwithhis
handsand soilinghisuniforms.He believesin‘handson’experiences.
He,withhisthoughnotreallyamodestbackground, engulfedhisprofessionallifewith hard
work,humbleness,feelingsandwarmthforfellowmen,workersandassociates.While he wassteeloutside
and duringexecution of anassignment,VijayGopani isknownforhissoftnessinside.
At time,unsurmountablehurdlescame hiswayinbusiness.Nature’swrathandaccidentscaused
unprecedenteddisappointmentsandhuge losses.Nothingcould mar either,hisprogress orhisspirit.
Jealousyandintrigues,complicatedcommunitypoliticscausedfew dull momentstrue butcouldnever
holdany of hisbusinessactivitytoastand still.He movedon,albeitinslowerpace.
Vijay Gopani,sonof D.C.Gopani had alwaysassistedindustrywithhisknowledge.He suggestedtostart
by makingearfittings,asthese were fairlysimpleand quicktomake those days.He tookit furtherto
add the importance andsafety ,suggested using silverearwire.assome people are allergictonickel.
FittingsandFindingsof Jewellery - mostfortunate,thatthissectorof the industryremaineduntouched
by variousfinancial setbacksandshare marketfluctuationswhichkeptonattacking industriesat
large,fromtime totime.
Sad situation,whenthe motherindustrysuffered.Happy toexperience enviable positionof Fittingsand
Findings.They maintainedtheirturnovers.
Typical examplesof findingsandfittingsavailableinthe markettodaywouldbe Omegaearclips,single
line anddouble line GB,Nut,posts,EarHoop and otherCatches,Box Clasp,FishHookfor the ear,
EuropeanBacks etc..
The market needbeingwithin5and 8% of the valuationof the jewellery,industryhasahuge growth
prospect insight.
GiventhatIndiaexportedgoldjewelleryworthRs.2,300 crore in2000-01 and Rs.23,000 crores inrecent
years,the industrysize wouldbe inthe regionof Rs.2000 crore.
Achievingthiskindof industry figure isadifficultscenarioforasupplystructure whichislargely
unorganizedsmall scale units.But there are players,likeHarshPreciousMetalsPvt ltd.(HPMPL) who
have sethighstandardsand satisfyinternational qualitystandards ineverypossible aspect.
Present Status
The niche industryisgrowingandthat had to take place sooneror later.
5. 1.In pursuitof rapidmodernizationinthe gemsjewelleryindustry,their unmistakabletrendtomatch
worldstandardinquality,designandfinish,adoptionof higherqualityof findingsandfindingshadto
soonfollow.
2.The increasedqualityandquantitydemandhave promptedthe manufacturingsystemtoshiftto
mechanizationfromhandcrafting.Thusreducinghumanerrors,manual limitationsetc.whileincreasing
repetitive productionlevelsandoverall efficiencies.
3.Finally,theindustryrecognizingthe needof development,progressandwideroutlookhasadopted
modernization.Inthe processof adoptingmore of value addedsystems,techniquesandmechanisms
capital infusionhasbeentakingplace thusstrengtheningthe rootof the industrysegment..
The concentrationonthe domesticfronthas hithertobeenlow,mainlyfortworeasons –lack of
awarenessof qualityproductsandstandardizedapplicationsinthe jewellerysegment,whichwould
guarantee some decentoff take.Still,inthiseraof pre-WorldTrade Organization(WTO) regimethis
industryhasarchivedsubstantial growthinthe lastcouplesof year,despite overall sluggishdemand,and
highunawarenessof applicationof the products .Inmakinggoldandstuddedjewellery,thissegment
has
maintainedgrowth of aroundover30%. Anditsconsumptioninjewelleryincreasingveryspeedily.
Why the promise?
What has beenthe catalyst behindthis promisinggrowth of 30%? Let us take a look..
• Globalisationandexposuretointernational trendshasmade local buyers andconsumershighly
aware about world-classquality.Theirtastesanddemandsfromthe local markethave started
movingaccordingly.Hence,fittingsandfindingshave beenfindingmore offtake,since theyare
omnipresentininternational designs.
• Onthe qualityfront,there have beendevelopments.The governmentisrightnow ona
recommendationdrive infavorof hallmarkingof jewellery,thoughthe same hasnotbeenmade
mandatory.
• There hasbeena substantial level of brandpenetrationinthis industry.Brandslike Gili
,Aura,Geetanjali,and
Tanishqhave shownexponentialgrowthinthe pastfew yearsandhave carved outa strong
marketshare.The increasingshare of brandsin the pie wouldnaturallyfurtherthe cause of the
6. fittingsand findingssegmentthattooon a mass scale and standardizedinquality.
Findings/Fastenings: /Fittings/Joinings
Findings:
The small screws or the backing of an earring or the clasp of a pendant or a
bracelet
which seems insignificantis a vital component of any jewelry. These
inconsequential
elements are collectively known as findings.
Findings are small metal parts that have functional use in the construction and
wearing
of jewelry. A wide range of findings manufactured by the suppliers aremade
available to
the jewelers in standardized forms and sizes.
Findings are those components used while making a piece of jewelry that serves
as a
mechanical function such as closing, fastening or joining jewelry which have
distinct
functionalities.
Fasteningsare devicesbywhichajewel isheldeithertoclothingortoa part
of the bodyby passingthroughitor clutchingit. Few examplesincludebarclips,tiepins,
hair clips,nose rings,andscrewearwires.
Joinings:Joiningsare devicesforholdingtogetherpartsof a jewel anddonot directly
serve eitherof the above functions.Forexample jumprings,wire,chainandcord.
Varietyof findingslike bezels,clasps,brooch,hingesetc.indifferentsize andshapesare
7. available whichmake the workof the jewelereasy.A manufacturercanconcentrate more
on the designandappeal of a particularjewelry.
Most of the findingsare available,made of preciousmetals,andalsoof nickel silver,
copper-platedandnickel-platedwhite metal,brass,andbronze.
JewelleryCatches,fasteningsandlinksare knownasfindings.Whenyoufirststartmaking
jewellery,youwill finditeasiertobuythem, ratherthanto attemptto make your own.
Since boughtfindingsare mostlymachine-made theycanvaryconsiderablyinquality.Itisfalse
economytobuy everycheapfindingsastheyare aptnot to workat all or else tobreakaftera
short periodof time.Whateverqualityyoudecideon,howeveryoushouldstudyyourdesign
and decide whattype of fittingwouldbe appropriateintermsof functionandappearance,before
selectingfindingsfromthe vastrange available.
If you were toattach a tinydelicate catchto a chunkynecklace,for eg.It wouldnotonly be
unable tosupportthe weightof the necklace,butitwouldalsounattractive.
Whenyouhave some more experienceyoushouldthinkaboutmakingyourowncomponents.
Thoughthe task is intricate andskilled,itisverysatisfying.A hand-made fasteningwillalmost
certainlyfunctionmore effectivelythanaboughtone,thisisparticularytrue of broochcatches
and pins.Inaddition,craftsmanshipof the findingswillthenbe comparable tothatof the piece
itself.If youwouldrathernotspendtime makingfindingsforaparticularpiece,itispossibleto
modifyboughtfindingsbyaddingstones,orsolderingondecorative devices.
I suggestthatyou start by makingearfittings,asthese are fairlysimpleandquicktomake.
Alwaysuse silverearwire,evenif yourearringsare made of base metal,assome people are
allergictonickel.
Alloys:
Two or more elementalmetalscanbe combinedtomake a compoundalsocalledas
alloy.Thisisdone to change visual propertiessuchascolor,or workingpropertiessuch
8. as increasinghardness,denseness,corrosionresistance,ortolowerthe meltingpointof
the base metal inthe alloy.Heatandfusionare usedto mix andunite the components.
An alloyof twometalsisa binaryalloy,anda three metal alloyisa ternaryalloy.Alloys
may containmore than three metals,andhundredsof alloysexist.Base metalsare alloyed
witheachother,and alsowithpreciousandferrousmetals.
Durability,finishing,shine,corrosion,resistance are importantaspectsandthese revolve
aroundsuccessful developmentof masteralloysbasedonsilver,copper,zinc,palladium
etc.along withotherminoradditionsinproperproportiontoachievedesiredpropertiesin
the final carat goldalloys.
HarshPrecious Metals(HPM)
COMPANY INTRODUCTION
Over the past few decades,there has beeneverincreasing demandfor jewellery,
alongwirh the change in the taste and choice of the consumer. This proliferationof
variety and changes in the likingof the people is the characteristics of the modern
society.These aspects put strongest demand on jewellery rawmaterials, manufacturing
technologies,qualityand aestheticaspectsof product. As a result,the jewllery
technologies have beenable to developvariousgold alloys contemporary with deep
yellow,pale pink, pink,red, green,white colours to suit the designand requirements.
Durability,finish,shine,corrosion resistance and compatibility with human body and
additional requirements are important aspects and these revolve around successful
development of MASTERALLOYS basedon silver,copper, zinc,palladiumetc;
alongwith other minor additionsin properproportion to achieve desired properties
in the final carat gold alloys. MASTERALLOYS addedto pure gold inthe right
proportions to obtain various caratages popularly 8 , 10 , 14 , 18 ,and 22 with the
desired colour and hardness are the back – bone of the modernjewellerybusiness.
9. With these important requirementsinmind,HARSH PRECIOUS METALS PVT LTD
has put a unit in Mumbai,India to manufacture the MASTERALLOYS of international
standard to meet both domesticas well as international requirements.To achieve the
quality requirements, HARSH PRECIOUSMETALS PVT LTD enteredinto a tie up for
technical know how with the WorldRenownedM/s . C. HAFNER GMBH, GERMANY
pioneerinthe GoldAlloy technology for the last 150 years.
Additionally, they are also manufacturing Fittingsand Findings of Gold,Silverand
Precious Metals of international standard
The basic conceptof HPM isto fulfill the requirementsof Jewelleryindustry with aunique
qualityproduct.Nothing lessthansupremequalitywithbestpossibletechnical support
and aftersale service istheirmotto.Todevelopstandardizedandcustomizedproductsto
serve global marketistheirimmediate next mainobjective.
HPM has now beenassessedbyOrion registrar and found to be incompliance withthe
quality standard ISO 9001-2000.
Today HPMis proudto offerproductsof BIS andhall mark standardwithunlimited
range of productsinfittingsandfindingssuchas
butterflypost, screw post,leverback,
omega, ear clips,prongs, lobster,chain tag, broach pin,cufflinks,illusion,pendanthooks,
beads,chain cap, silverbeads,single like GB,double line GB, pushpad, treaded nuts,
various snaps, leverback etc.
Over the past fewdecades,there has beeneverincreasingdemandfor Jewellery,
along with the change in the taste and choice of the consumer.This proliferationof
variety and changes in the likingof the people isthe characteristics of the modern
society.These aspects put strongest demand on jewelleryrawmaterials, manufacturing
technologies,qualityand aestheticaspectsof product. As a result,the jewellery
10. technologieshave beenable to developvariousgold alloys,solders,engineeringproducts
like fittingsand finding(Jewellery components) contemporarywithdeepyellow,pale
pink,pink, red, green,white colors and peculiarmechanical propertiesto suitthe current
designsand requirements.
M/s Janata Manufacturers, establishedin1953 ProprietorMr. D.C. Gopani –has now
become A Group of CompanieswithMr. Vijay D. Gopani – Proprietor of M/s Janata
SalesCorporation, Managing Director of M/s Aerodiam Software (Bombay) Pvt. Ltd and
M/s Harsh PreciousMetalsPvt. Ltd.
In 1998 M/s Harsh PreciousMetals Pvt. Ltd was establishedinTechnical Collaboration
with a highly reputedIndustry inGermany- M/s. C.Hafners Gmbhwho are pioneerin
gold alloytechnologyfor the last 150 years for manufacturing standard alloys. Under
the able guidance M/s. C.Hafners,a unit for manufacturing standard qualityalloys of
all caratages and colors was set-up.It was a beginningofmanufacture of such alloysin
India. Cadmiumfree Soldersof all caratages and colors are an addition to Alloyproduct.
Later, taking advantage ofthe experience andknowledge ofmore thenfive decadesin
manufacturing fittingand findingsfor Costume Jewelleryin M/s Janata Manufacturers,
HPM also developedandstarted manufacturing Fittingsand FindingsofGold,Silverand
PreciousMetalsof International quality, an indigenousImport Substitute.Today, M/s.
Harsh PreciousMetalsPvt. Ltd. suppliesProductof BIS and Hall Marked standards.
The basic concept ofM/s. Harsh Precious MetalsPvt. Ltd. now an ISO 9001:2000
Company is to fulfill the requirementsofJewelleryIndustry – a unique qualityproduct.
Nothinglessthan supreme a quality withbest possible technical supportand after- sale
service is our motto and to developstandardizedand customizedproducts to serve global
market is our main quality objective.
Master Alloysfor casting grains are just not a mixingof various metalsbut more then to
11. produce bettercasting with reducedporosity.
Purpose and Advantage of Alloysis to achieve carat withdifferent colors,to avoid
porosity,cracking, fire scale and pitting.Moreoverit reducesthe gold losswhich
means a lot of savings for a company in the long run. Alsoit improvesworkability with
uniformityin the grain structure.
Durability,finish,shine, corrosion resistance and compatibilitywith human body
are additional requirementsare important aspectsand these revolve around successful
developmentofMasterAlloysbased on silver,copper,zinc, palladiumetc; along with
other minor additionsin properproportion to achieve desiredpropertiesinthe final carat
gold alloys.
Master Alloysadded to pure goldin the right proportionsto obtainvarious caratages
popularly 8, 9,10, 14, 18, and 22,23 with the desired color and hardnessare the back –
bone of the modernJewellerybusiness.
SolderProducts are intermediarynon ferrousalloy whose composition in a molten
state becomesextremelyfluid,andhas an affinityfor the metals joinedincludeshard,
medium& soft range with the compatible in colors of base metals in all cartages which
eitherin strip,wire, paste etc. form. Because ofthe poisonousnature of cadmium, now
cadmium free soldersare recommendedand insome countriesit is mandatory to use
them. HPM manufacturesand promotesonly cadmium free solders.
Findingsare small metal parts or componentsthat have functional usesin the
construction of & wearing of jewelry.Amongfindings,a distinctionexistsbetweenthose
whose functional concepts involve closing,fasteningor joining.
In Closings, includes hinges,removable pins,clasps, catches,spring rings, hooks of
various typesetc
In Fastening,includespinstamp withcatch and joint,clips,bar clip,hat and tiepins,
12. cuff ling,and studs through clothing.Etc.
In Joining,includeschaincord, wire,jump rings,spiral rings, chain caps, belts,pendant
loopsetc.
Findingis engineering productswhichcomprise standardization of specification,weight,
mechanical properties,color and application.
Findingsmay be handmade casting or die struck machine made ones.The machine made
die struck are always betterin terms of mass production ingiven time frame,uniformity,
same color betterquality and mechanical properties.The standardization isonly achieved
by die struck machine made findings
The findingincludesall kind ofSOCKETS to properlyand firmlyhold differentsizesof
stonesand provide pleasingaesthetics.Theyshouldnot wear away too soon, and result
in stone coming out of the socketand dropping out and stone lost. Since many stone are
heldin jewellery,theyshouldbe geometricallyperfect,andwithout variance, whichis
causing immense hardshipto the jewelersaswell as customers. Currentlythey are made
by hand, or through crude old methodsand use very little technology.Otherfindings
include , Three,four ,sixpronged socket,channel socket etc.
HPM also manufacture import substitute indigenousfindings& FittingsProductsmix
in various range by state of the art manufacturingfacility to cater standardized &
customizedproducts with off the shelfconcept. DesignDevelopment & exploringnew
trends & area iscontinuous & on-going processin HPM.
. The scenario ofthe industry is changingand the importance of engineeringproducts like
alloys,solders,findings,mountingsand other accessoriesare understoodand accepted in
Industry & started buyingthese products off the shelffrom manufacturers .
Hence Jewelleryfactoriesare to concentrate on theircore competence ofmaking
Jewelleryanddesigndevelopment.
13. Hurdles
The hurdlesare obviousasfacedby any growingsegmentof humanendeavor.Findingsandfittingsare
no exceptions.
A.Nonavailabilityof adequatequantityof goldatinternational price
B.Nonavailabilityof exportbenefitsforunitsnotwithinspecial zones.
C.Finance needspeciallyforcapital intensive machines,equipmentsandtestingunitsare tobe provided
at the marketrate of interest.
Future plans:
The unitis constantlyworkingtowardscollaborationandbringingnew technologyto
India.
Designdevelopmentandexploringnew trendsistheircontinuousandon- goingprocess.
Andfinally,
Mass productionof fittingsandfindingsasanassemblyline of productionistheirultimateobjective.