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PATTERN
DEVELOPMENT
Unit Two
Understanding the CAD System
 Apparel Design Technical Pack (Tech Pack)
 Block Pattern
 CAD-Computer Aided Design
 Costing
 Design Details
 Design Samples
 Drafting a Pattern
 Flat Pattern
 Garment Cost Sheet
 Grading
 Logistics
 Pattern Maker
 Pattern Specification Sheet
 Production Samples
 Prototype
 Retail
 Reverse Engineered Pattern
 Sloper Pattern
 Sourcing
 Tariffs
 Wholesale
• Create a pattern for a garment or an apparel
product.
• Consider the design details.
• Select the materials (fabrication and trims)
• Construct the sample (prototype)
• Fit, revise and finalize the sample
• Create an apparel technical design pack
• Prepare pattern for mass production
Designers begin by creating a2D or 3D
pattern, utilizing one or more of the pattern
making methods:
Flat
Drafting
Reversed Engineered
Draping
Computer Generated
 Flat Pattern- A pattern is
created by using an existing
foundation pattern known as a
sloper or a block.
 Sloper (Home Sewing
Industry term) or Block
(Apparel Manufacturing
Industry term) - custom fitted
basic pattern based on
individual or companies
standard size measurements
from which other patterns can
be made.
Drafting a Pattern- Patterns are created
by using measurements of an existing
garment, an individual, or body form.
Pattern is then drawn on paper utilizing the
body measurements.
Drafting a Pattern: You Tube Video
Reverse Engineering a Pattern- Patterns
are created by deconstructing an existing
garment. It is taken apart, analyzed, and new
pattern pieces are created.
 Draping- A garment is
created by molding, cutting,
and pinning fabric on an
individual or a dress form. It
is the oldest method of
pattern making.
 Computer Generated
Patterns- Computer-aided
design (CAD) software is
used to produce patterns for
textiles, apparel and other
products. Image Source:
www.lucianagrimaldi.com
 Dress Styles:
 Sheath, Shift, A-line, Tent,
Empire, or Lower waistline
 Other Dress Styles:
Princess, Blouson, Shirtwaist,
Coatdress, Asymmetrical,
Jumper or Sundress
 Neckline Styles: Decollete̒,
Jewel, Boat, Scoop,
Horseshoe, Cowl, Raised,
Square, V, Off the Shoulder,
Sweetheart, and Keyhole.
 Shirt Styles: Dress, Sport,
Polo, Western, T-shirt, Tank,
Fitted, Hawaiian, Tunic,
Tuxedo, Camisole, and
Henley
 Collar Styles: Shirt, Button
Down, Sailor, Convertible,
Peter Pan, Chelsea, Bertha,
Mandarin, Band, Crewneck,
Turtleneck, Shawl, Bow Tie,
Stock , Jabot
 Sleeve Types: Set-in,
Kimono, Raglan
 Set-In Sleeves Types:
Bishop, Pleasant, Bell,
Lantern, Cape, Shirt, Puff,
Melon, Cowl, Petal,, Roll-up,
Leg-o-Mutton, Shirred,
Juliette, and Two-Piece
Tailored
 Kimono Sleeve Types: With
Gusset, Dolman, Batwing
 Raglan Sleeve Types:
Raglan to center front,
Raglan-Princess, and Saddle
Sleeve Design
 Skirt Styles: Straight, A-line,
Flared, Circular, Full, Pleated,
Gathered, Dirndl, Gored,
Umbrella, and Wrap
 Pant Styles: Tapered,
Straight, Flared, Jean,
Palazzo, Harem, Bermuda
Shorts, and Short Shorts,
 Other Pant Styles Include:
Gauchos, knickers, and
Culottes
 Jacket Styles: Trench,
Blazer, Fitted, Tuxedo,
Cardigan, Parka, Poncho,
Cape, Safari, Pea,
Windbreaker, Norfolk, Chanel,
Bolero, and Box
 Pockets- Patch, Inseam,
Welt, Flap
is the very foundation upon which pattern
making, fit, and design are based.
made up of five distinct parts
A front and back bodice,
A front and back skirt that hangs straight from the hip
A slim, full-length sleeves.
The dress follows the figure's
outline,
 covering the outermost parts
without contouring the hollow
areas.
It has a series of seams directed
toward the figure's bulges-the
bust, abdomen, buttocks,
shoulder blades, and elbows.
 The pattern pieces are shaped
to fit the figure's dimensions, and
the garment fits with comfort and
ease in perfect harmony with the
balance of the model's stance.
Creating Basic Patterns
Creating basic patterns begins
with a 2-dimensional piece of
paper (for drafting) or muslin (for
draping).
Patterns confine the dimensions of
the figure by a series of
 straight lines (shoulder, side
seams, skirt below hip)
 curved lines (necklines,
armholes, skirt-above hip).
 Wedges that appear at the
pattern's edge are directed to the
apex of the bust, shoulder blade,
Darts
Darts retain form or
model measurements
by confining unneeded
fullness at the pattern's
edge.
The dart gradually releases
fullness and terminates at or
near the apex of the bust
,shoulder blades, buttocks,
and abdomen.
The dart also has
creative value
It is the dart that converts a
2- diamensional pattern into
a 3-dimensional garment.
1). This involves a knowledge of the
three major patternmaking
principles and their corollaries:
• Principle I-Dart Manipulation
• Principle 2-Added Fullness
• Principle 3-Contouring
Micro
skirt
Mini skirt
Above
knee
skirt
knee
skirt
below
knee
skirt Mid calf
knee
skirt
Below
Mid calf
skirt
Lower
calf skirt
Evening skirt
Floor skirt
Jacket lengths used by consumers refer to body
landmarks such as waist, hip, crotch, and thumb.
Apparel industry personnel use center back
length measurements in inches from the base of
the neck to the hem. The approximate landmark
inch equivalents for size 10 are given below.
Boy shorts: Square leg hemmed
1 to 1 1/2 inches below crotch.
(Also called short shorts or hot
pants.)
Jamaica shorts: Mid-thigh
length shorts between Bermuda
and boy shorts.
Jams: Full-cut, elasticized waist,
above-knee length pants.
Bermuda/walking/: Short knee
length pant that fits closely.
Bermuda
Deck/Pedal
Pusher
Clam digger
Stirrup
 Once a design is created and the pattern is
engineered, the materials (fabrication and trims)
are sourced. (Consider wholesale vs. retail when
sourcing materials.) Other variables may include:
labor, logistics, tariffs, shipping costs etc.
 Preliminary costing is completed to insure
profitability.
 Costing Considerations- fabrics, trims, design
details, and labor costs.
Sample garments (prototypes) are created
by sample makers.
Sample makers must be skilled in a variety
of sewing construction techniques.
They work closely to insure fit and design
integrity.
Fashion fabric is used to create a sample
garment.
Use a mannequin or a live model to check
the fit and styling of the sample garment.
Revise garment fit until it is correct.
Photo Source: gardnerstreetvintage.tumblr.com
 The Apparel Design Technical (Tech) Packs are
created after the sample garment has been
finalized.
 Create Your Own Tech Pack- You Tube Video
 The tech packs are specific information about the
design and should include the following:
1. Detailed flat sketch with front and back views.
Should include topstitching, pocket and button
placement, placement of contrast fabrications, hem
and band widths, label placement etc.
 2. Directions for any special fabric direction or
matching. For example borders, napped fabric etc.
 3. Any special seam allowances, decorative or
standard topstitching, stitch length, thread type and
color.
 4. Include samples of fabrics and trims. Clearly
indicate what is Self, Contrast, Trim, and Lining
fabrics.
 5. Measurement details.
 6. Care Instructions for labeling
 7. Color details and season information
Season
-
Style #-
Date-
Designer-
Body
Measurements
Technical Sketch-
include design and
construction
details
Hardware
and Trim
Fabrication
and Color
Swatch of
Fabrics
Care Label
Information
Comment
s
Once a sample pattern has been approved
for size, costing, availability of materials,
and potential profit; it is used for
production samples and samples for sales
promotion.
 The approved pattern is graded into smaller and
larger sizes usually by computer but can be done
by hand.
 Final fabric selections and trims are ordered by
suppliers.
 Computer interfacing: the art of connecting computers
and peripherals.
 In a lot of circumstances, it looks more like magic
than art.
 It is not uncommon that you end up removing all
unnecessary hardware from your computer to get that
communication device to work.
 Despite all plug-and-play internal hardware solutions
for the PC, connecting a number of external devices
still
 Software downloads
No computer hardware without software.
 The basic routines and example programs in
this section will help you interfacing your
computer with other devices successfully
 Cable information
In computer interfacing it is often difficult to find the right cable
for a specific purpose. Although the USB interface tries to solve
this problem, there are many situations where you need to
search for the right cable.
General interfacing information
Interfacing is not just about cables.
 In a lot of circumstances you need also
background information, to select the right
null modem cable for example.
Null modem is a communication method to directly connect two DTEs
(computer, terminal, printer, etc.) using an RS-232 serial cable.
The name stems from the historical use of RS-232 cables to connect two
tele printer devices or two modems in order to communicate with one
another; null modem communication refers to using a crossed-over RS-
232 cable to connect the tele printers directly to one another without the
modems. It is also used to serially connect a computer to a printer, since
both are DTE, and is known as a Printer Cable.
 Cables for data interfacing
 Even in this era of wireless communications, cables are still the most used
method to connect computers and peripherals. Several different protocols
and cables are used to communicate and each has its specific properties.
 These pages contain a detailed explanation for the most used cables with in
many cases a layout to build the cable yourself. RS232 cables are used to
connect devices that communicate using the RS232 protocol.
 This interface definition is already more than fourty years old, but it is still
used in many applications. Specifically situations where cheap
communications is necessary at a moderate speed over longer distances,
this interface is often the first choice.
 The common pinout is shown for DB9 and DB25
connectors and also many wiring schemes are present
for several applications. Modular cables are mostly
known from computer networks based on UTP and
FTP cables. This is however not the only application of
modular cables. Also analog and ISDN telephone
connections are often wired with modular cables and
Digital Equipment Corporation defined in the past a
data cable system based on modular cables with the
name DECConnect.
 Parallel cables are historically mainly used to connect
printers to computers. The seven or eight parallel data lines
ensure a fast data exchange which is important when large
print jobs are processed. The parallel interface is however
also capable for two-way communication and specifically for
this purpose the Interlink or Laplink cable has been
developed. This cable makes it possible to exchange data
between computers if the right software is used. Layouts for
the regular printer cable and the Laplink cable are present on
these pages. PLC cables are used to connect industrial
controllers with computers and peripherals. There is a huge
mess of cable layouts around, because almost every
manufacturer decided to define its own wiring scheme for a
specific situation. The layouts for the most used cables are
shown on these pages.
What are the three essential components
of a modern computer?
• Be general or specific
A computer is an device that receives
information (input), processes information,
and outputs information
input/output device that processes
information
Key parts of a computer
Input vs. output
Interconnection between parts
Box - Central Processing Unit (CPU)
Monitor - main output device
Keyboard - main input device
All processing goes through the box
A simple input/output (I/O) device
Ports on back for connection of input and
output devices
Disk drives on front for storage I/O
 Monitor
 Keyboard
 CPU (The Box)
 Floppy Drive
 CD-ROM
 Printer
 Scanner
 Modem
 Digital Camera
 CD Writer/Burner
 Hard Drive
 LCD Projector
 Laser Pointer
 Network Card
 Bluetooth Card
 Speakers
Computer
Monitor
Keyboard
HD
FD
CD-RW
Printer
Scanner
Camera
Mouse
Modem
LCD
Output
Input
I/O
Read - Write
Legend
Processor – e.g. Pentium IV
Memory – e.g. 256 MB RAM
Storage – e.g. Hard Drive, CD-RW
Slots & Cards
We will cover this on Monday
Standard keyboard - 101 key, letters,
number-pad, function keys
Microsoft Natural Keyboard - “Ergonomic”
design, supposedly better for wrists
Wrist support is important
The future?
 Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) -
standard monitor,
inexpensive, good
resolution, good pixel size
 Flat Panel (Liquid Crystal
Display - LCD) – more
expensive, prices dropping
 Size is most important factor
• Get a 17” CRT or 15” LCD or bigger
 Note 15” LCD is about the same as a 17” CRT
• 15” CRT cheaper but will seem very small
 Dot size advertised, not that big of a factor
 Viewable Area – 15.8” for a 17” CRT
 Maximum resolution – look for at least 1280 x
1024
Computer
Monitor
Keyboard
HD
FD
CD-RW
Printer
Scanner
Camera
Mouse
Modem
LCD
Output
Input
I/O
Read - Write
Legend
 Standard Two-Button: Left
button for selecting, right
button for properties
 Wheeled Mouse - Wheel for
scrolling
 Trackball - Inverted mouse
 Touchpad - Touch/tap
sensitive
 “Eraser”/Joystick
 Most mice have a round ball
and rollers – rollers must be
cleaned
 Newer mice are OPTICAL,
using LED and sensor to
track movement
 Flatbed Scanners - Lay image flat on “copier”-
like glass panel. Scanning element moves
 Photo Scanners - Run a single photo through a
scanner - photo moves, scanning element stays
stationary
 What you pay for: resolution, color quality,
connectivity
 Speed: USB connection faster than Parallel
 All scanners on market sufficient for web
 Camera without film
 Pixel resolution measures number of dots
 Pixel resolution is key: 640x480 vs. 1280x1024
(1.3 Megapixels) vs. 2048X1536 (3.3 Megapixels)
 Storage can be on flash memory cards, memory
sticks, floppy disks, internal, or no storage (web
cam)
 How to unload images is important
What is the common language in which
input and output devices communicate?
Ones and Zeros.
10001101010101010000101000101111100
1010010101010101001010011000001010
010101110011011111100010100110
actually means something to a computer
 Inkjet Printers - Tiny dots of ink on paper
• Can print high quality photos
• Ink is expensive!
 Laser Printers - Laser, plastic toner, and
heat; drawback: no color
 Color Laser Printers - ~$600 and up
 Dot Matrix Printers
Similar to monitors but project image
New to computer market (last 5 years)
Expensive, becoming cheaper every day
(some under $1000 now)
For business and education, some people
getting them for home theatre systems
MOdulator / DEModualter = MO-DEM
Converts digital computer signal to analog
telephone signal and vice versa
Sends and receives information
56K is current standard
Connect speeds often slower than 56K
 Cable Modems convert from cable interface to
Ethernet or USB interface.
 External, $50-$200 to buy
 Must subscribe to Broadband/ Cable Internet
Service through your cable provider
 Best way to go from home but expensive
($45/month)
 Cable provider has a monopoly so prices won’t
drop
Digital Subscriber Line
• Works over phone line but doesn’t interfere with
phone calls
• The speed is much higher than a regular modem
(1.5 Mbps vs. 56 Kbps)
• Works better closer to phone company
• Not available everywhere
Network cards allow connection to the
Internet via ETHERNET
Wireless network cards require a wireless
router to connect
Ethernet is FAST!
Media refers to the objects on which
information is stored
Singular of word is medium
A CD is a medium for storage, a floppy
disk is a medium, …
“Drive” Storage: magnetic film stores 1s
and 0s
Hard Drives - Internal, sealed platters
Floppy Drive - One flexible platter
Zip Drive – Very high capacity floppy
Most rewritable storage is magnetic
CD-ROM – 650MB or 700 MB, read only,
etched pits
 drives 32X etc. for speed relative to normal
DVD - stands for Digital Versatile Disc, 4.7 Gb
(7X CD)
CD RW
• 48x/16x/52x means 48x maximum write speed,
16x max. rewrite speed, and 52x max. read speed
Media: CD-R is cheapest, write once
CD-RW – good medium for transporting
files
What are the three essential components
of a modern computer?
• Be general or specific
A computer is an device that receives
information (input), processes information,
and outputs information
input/output device that processes
information
Key parts of a computer
Input vs. output
Interconnection between parts
Box - Central Processing Unit (CPU)
Monitor - main output device
Keyboard - main input device
All processing goes through the box
A simple input/output (I/O) device
Ports on back for connection of input and
output devices
Disk drives on front for storage I/O
 Monitor
 Keyboard
 CPU (The Box)
 Floppy Drive
 CD-ROM
 Printer
 Scanner
 Modem
 Digital Camera
 CD Writer/Burner
 Hard Drive
 LCD Projector
 Laser Pointer
 Network Card
 Bluetooth Card
 Speakers
Computer
Monitor
Keyboard
HD
FD
CD-RW
Printer
Scanner
Camera
Mouse
Modem
LCD
Output
Input
I/O
Read - Write
Legend
Processor – e.g. Pentium IV
Memory – e.g. 256 MB RAM
Storage – e.g. Hard Drive, CD-RW
Slots & Cards
We will cover this on Monday
Standard keyboard - 101 key, letters,
number-pad, function keys
Microsoft Natural Keyboard - “Ergonomic”
design, supposedly better for wrists
Wrist support is important
The future?
 Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) -
standard monitor,
inexpensive, good
resolution, good pixel size
 Flat Panel (Liquid Crystal
Display - LCD) – more
expensive, prices dropping
 Size is most important factor
• Get a 17” CRT or 15” LCD or bigger
 Note 15” LCD is about the same as a 17” CRT
• 15” CRT cheaper but will seem very small
 Dot size advertised, not that big of a factor
 Viewable Area – 15.8” for a 17” CRT
 Maximum resolution – look for at least 1280 x
1024
Computer
Monitor
Keyboard
HD
FD
CD-RW
Printer
Scanner
Camera
Mouse
Modem
LCD
Output
Input
I/O
Read - Write
Legend
 Standard Two-Button: Left
button for selecting, right
button for properties
 Wheeled Mouse - Wheel for
scrolling
 Trackball - Inverted mouse
 Touchpad - Touch/tap
sensitive
 “Eraser”/Joystick
 Most mice have a round ball
and rollers – rollers must be
cleaned
 Newer mice are OPTICAL,
using LED and sensor to
track movement
 Flatbed Scanners - Lay image flat on “copier”-
like glass panel. Scanning element moves
 Photo Scanners - Run a single photo through a
scanner - photo moves, scanning element stays
stationary
 What you pay for: resolution, color quality,
connectivity
 Speed: USB connection faster than Parallel
 All scanners on market sufficient for web
 Camera without film
 Pixel resolution measures number of dots
 Pixel resolution is key: 640x480 vs. 1280x1024
(1.3 Megapixels) vs. 2048X1536 (3.3 Megapixels)
 Storage can be on flash memory cards, memory
sticks, floppy disks, internal, or no storage (web
cam)
 How to unload images is important
What is the common language in which
input and output devices communicate?
Ones and Zeros.
10001101010101010000101000101111100
1010010101010101001010011000001010
010101110011011111100010100110
actually means something to a computer
 Inkjet Printers - Tiny dots of ink on paper
• Can print high quality photos
• Ink is expensive!
 Laser Printers - Laser, plastic toner, and
heat; drawback: no color
 Color Laser Printers - ~$600 and up
 Dot Matrix Printers
Similar to monitors but project image
New to computer market (last 5 years)
Expensive, becoming cheaper every day
(some under $1000 now)
For business and education, some people
getting them for home theatre systems
MOdulator / DEModualter = MO-DEM
Converts digital computer signal to analog
telephone signal and vice versa
Sends and receives information
56K is current standard
Connect speeds often slower than 56K
 Cable Modems convert from cable interface to
Ethernet or USB interface.
 External, $50-$200 to buy
 Must subscribe to Broadband/ Cable Internet
Service through your cable provider
 Best way to go from home but expensive
($45/month)
 Cable provider has a monopoly so prices won’t
drop
Digital Subscriber Line
• Works over phone line but doesn’t interfere with
phone calls
• The speed is much higher than a regular modem
(1.5 Mbps vs. 56 Kbps)
• Works better closer to phone company
• Not available everywhere
Network cards allow connection to the
Internet via ETHERNET
Wireless network cards require a wireless
router to connect
Ethernet is FAST!
Media refers to the objects on which
information is stored
Singular of word is medium
A CD is a medium for storage, a floppy
disk is a medium, …
“Drive” Storage: magnetic film stores 1s
and 0s
Hard Drives - Internal, sealed platters
Floppy Drive - One flexible platter
Zip Drive – Very high capacity floppy
Most rewritable storage is magnetic
CD-ROM – 650MB or 700 MB, read only,
etched pits
 drives 32X etc. for speed relative to normal
DVD - stands for Digital Versatile Disc, 4.7 Gb
(7X CD)
CD RW
• 48x/16x/52x means 48x maximum write speed,
16x max. rewrite speed, and 52x max. read speed
Media: CD-R is cheapest, write once
CD-RW – good medium for transporting
files
 Particularly, you'll need to know the difference between HD Ready and Full
HD. In the most basic terms, HD Ready TVs and set top boxes can show
you 720p ...
 Full HD is a term used to describe television display technology that is a
standard for high-definition television in terms of video quality and
sharpness. It is defined as an image with a resolution of 1920 by 1080
pixels. ... Full HD is also known as 1080 progressive or 1080p.
 A cathode ray tube (CRT) is a specialized vacuumtube in
which images are produced when an electron beam strikes
aphosphorescent surface. Most desktop computer displays
make useof CRTs. The CRT in a computer display is similar to
the"picture tube" in a television receiver.
 WHAT IS ISDN
 WHAT IS UTP
 How it`s work Aston Martin DB9
 Definition of a Computer
 Write the similarities and difference of spec.sheeet and
Tech.pack in apparel industry
 How to express Pixel resolution measures number of dots
 LCD Projectors
 Explain parts of computer
 What is the difference between 1st sample and production
sample
3. Computer grading ,marker making and
Plotter Interface
3.1. Provisions in CAD Patternmaking
• Digitizing

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understanding the CAD system for fashion design student

  • 2.  Apparel Design Technical Pack (Tech Pack)  Block Pattern  CAD-Computer Aided Design  Costing  Design Details  Design Samples  Drafting a Pattern  Flat Pattern  Garment Cost Sheet  Grading
  • 3.  Logistics  Pattern Maker  Pattern Specification Sheet  Production Samples  Prototype  Retail  Reverse Engineered Pattern  Sloper Pattern  Sourcing  Tariffs  Wholesale
  • 4. • Create a pattern for a garment or an apparel product. • Consider the design details. • Select the materials (fabrication and trims) • Construct the sample (prototype) • Fit, revise and finalize the sample • Create an apparel technical design pack • Prepare pattern for mass production
  • 5. Designers begin by creating a2D or 3D pattern, utilizing one or more of the pattern making methods: Flat Drafting Reversed Engineered Draping Computer Generated
  • 6.  Flat Pattern- A pattern is created by using an existing foundation pattern known as a sloper or a block.  Sloper (Home Sewing Industry term) or Block (Apparel Manufacturing Industry term) - custom fitted basic pattern based on individual or companies standard size measurements from which other patterns can be made.
  • 7. Drafting a Pattern- Patterns are created by using measurements of an existing garment, an individual, or body form. Pattern is then drawn on paper utilizing the body measurements. Drafting a Pattern: You Tube Video Reverse Engineering a Pattern- Patterns are created by deconstructing an existing garment. It is taken apart, analyzed, and new pattern pieces are created.
  • 8.  Draping- A garment is created by molding, cutting, and pinning fabric on an individual or a dress form. It is the oldest method of pattern making.  Computer Generated Patterns- Computer-aided design (CAD) software is used to produce patterns for textiles, apparel and other products. Image Source: www.lucianagrimaldi.com
  • 9.  Dress Styles:  Sheath, Shift, A-line, Tent, Empire, or Lower waistline  Other Dress Styles: Princess, Blouson, Shirtwaist, Coatdress, Asymmetrical, Jumper or Sundress  Neckline Styles: Decollete̒, Jewel, Boat, Scoop, Horseshoe, Cowl, Raised, Square, V, Off the Shoulder, Sweetheart, and Keyhole.  Shirt Styles: Dress, Sport, Polo, Western, T-shirt, Tank, Fitted, Hawaiian, Tunic, Tuxedo, Camisole, and Henley  Collar Styles: Shirt, Button Down, Sailor, Convertible, Peter Pan, Chelsea, Bertha, Mandarin, Band, Crewneck, Turtleneck, Shawl, Bow Tie, Stock , Jabot  Sleeve Types: Set-in, Kimono, Raglan  Set-In Sleeves Types: Bishop, Pleasant, Bell, Lantern, Cape, Shirt, Puff, Melon, Cowl, Petal,, Roll-up, Leg-o-Mutton, Shirred, Juliette, and Two-Piece Tailored
  • 10.  Kimono Sleeve Types: With Gusset, Dolman, Batwing  Raglan Sleeve Types: Raglan to center front, Raglan-Princess, and Saddle Sleeve Design  Skirt Styles: Straight, A-line, Flared, Circular, Full, Pleated, Gathered, Dirndl, Gored, Umbrella, and Wrap  Pant Styles: Tapered, Straight, Flared, Jean, Palazzo, Harem, Bermuda Shorts, and Short Shorts,  Other Pant Styles Include: Gauchos, knickers, and Culottes  Jacket Styles: Trench, Blazer, Fitted, Tuxedo, Cardigan, Parka, Poncho, Cape, Safari, Pea, Windbreaker, Norfolk, Chanel, Bolero, and Box  Pockets- Patch, Inseam, Welt, Flap
  • 11. is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit, and design are based. made up of five distinct parts A front and back bodice, A front and back skirt that hangs straight from the hip A slim, full-length sleeves.
  • 12. The dress follows the figure's outline,  covering the outermost parts without contouring the hollow areas. It has a series of seams directed toward the figure's bulges-the bust, abdomen, buttocks, shoulder blades, and elbows.  The pattern pieces are shaped to fit the figure's dimensions, and the garment fits with comfort and ease in perfect harmony with the balance of the model's stance.
  • 13. Creating Basic Patterns Creating basic patterns begins with a 2-dimensional piece of paper (for drafting) or muslin (for draping). Patterns confine the dimensions of the figure by a series of  straight lines (shoulder, side seams, skirt below hip)  curved lines (necklines, armholes, skirt-above hip).  Wedges that appear at the pattern's edge are directed to the apex of the bust, shoulder blade,
  • 14. Darts Darts retain form or model measurements by confining unneeded fullness at the pattern's edge. The dart gradually releases fullness and terminates at or near the apex of the bust ,shoulder blades, buttocks, and abdomen. The dart also has creative value It is the dart that converts a 2- diamensional pattern into a 3-dimensional garment.
  • 15. 1). This involves a knowledge of the three major patternmaking principles and their corollaries: • Principle I-Dart Manipulation • Principle 2-Added Fullness • Principle 3-Contouring
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  • 19. below knee skirt Mid calf knee skirt Below Mid calf skirt Lower calf skirt
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  • 38. Jacket lengths used by consumers refer to body landmarks such as waist, hip, crotch, and thumb. Apparel industry personnel use center back length measurements in inches from the base of the neck to the hem. The approximate landmark inch equivalents for size 10 are given below.
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  • 84. Boy shorts: Square leg hemmed 1 to 1 1/2 inches below crotch. (Also called short shorts or hot pants.) Jamaica shorts: Mid-thigh length shorts between Bermuda and boy shorts. Jams: Full-cut, elasticized waist, above-knee length pants. Bermuda/walking/: Short knee length pant that fits closely.
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  • 105.  Once a design is created and the pattern is engineered, the materials (fabrication and trims) are sourced. (Consider wholesale vs. retail when sourcing materials.) Other variables may include: labor, logistics, tariffs, shipping costs etc.  Preliminary costing is completed to insure profitability.  Costing Considerations- fabrics, trims, design details, and labor costs.
  • 106. Sample garments (prototypes) are created by sample makers. Sample makers must be skilled in a variety of sewing construction techniques. They work closely to insure fit and design integrity. Fashion fabric is used to create a sample garment.
  • 107. Use a mannequin or a live model to check the fit and styling of the sample garment. Revise garment fit until it is correct. Photo Source: gardnerstreetvintage.tumblr.com
  • 108.  The Apparel Design Technical (Tech) Packs are created after the sample garment has been finalized.  Create Your Own Tech Pack- You Tube Video  The tech packs are specific information about the design and should include the following: 1. Detailed flat sketch with front and back views. Should include topstitching, pocket and button placement, placement of contrast fabrications, hem and band widths, label placement etc.
  • 109.  2. Directions for any special fabric direction or matching. For example borders, napped fabric etc.  3. Any special seam allowances, decorative or standard topstitching, stitch length, thread type and color.  4. Include samples of fabrics and trims. Clearly indicate what is Self, Contrast, Trim, and Lining fabrics.  5. Measurement details.  6. Care Instructions for labeling  7. Color details and season information
  • 110. Season - Style #- Date- Designer- Body Measurements Technical Sketch- include design and construction details Hardware and Trim Fabrication and Color Swatch of Fabrics Care Label Information Comment s
  • 111. Once a sample pattern has been approved for size, costing, availability of materials, and potential profit; it is used for production samples and samples for sales promotion.  The approved pattern is graded into smaller and larger sizes usually by computer but can be done by hand.  Final fabric selections and trims are ordered by suppliers.
  • 112.  Computer interfacing: the art of connecting computers and peripherals.  In a lot of circumstances, it looks more like magic than art.  It is not uncommon that you end up removing all unnecessary hardware from your computer to get that communication device to work.  Despite all plug-and-play internal hardware solutions for the PC, connecting a number of external devices still
  • 113.  Software downloads No computer hardware without software.  The basic routines and example programs in this section will help you interfacing your computer with other devices successfully  Cable information In computer interfacing it is often difficult to find the right cable for a specific purpose. Although the USB interface tries to solve this problem, there are many situations where you need to search for the right cable.
  • 114. General interfacing information Interfacing is not just about cables.  In a lot of circumstances you need also background information, to select the right null modem cable for example.
  • 115. Null modem is a communication method to directly connect two DTEs (computer, terminal, printer, etc.) using an RS-232 serial cable. The name stems from the historical use of RS-232 cables to connect two tele printer devices or two modems in order to communicate with one another; null modem communication refers to using a crossed-over RS- 232 cable to connect the tele printers directly to one another without the modems. It is also used to serially connect a computer to a printer, since both are DTE, and is known as a Printer Cable.
  • 116.  Cables for data interfacing  Even in this era of wireless communications, cables are still the most used method to connect computers and peripherals. Several different protocols and cables are used to communicate and each has its specific properties.  These pages contain a detailed explanation for the most used cables with in many cases a layout to build the cable yourself. RS232 cables are used to connect devices that communicate using the RS232 protocol.  This interface definition is already more than fourty years old, but it is still used in many applications. Specifically situations where cheap communications is necessary at a moderate speed over longer distances, this interface is often the first choice.
  • 117.
  • 118.  The common pinout is shown for DB9 and DB25 connectors and also many wiring schemes are present for several applications. Modular cables are mostly known from computer networks based on UTP and FTP cables. This is however not the only application of modular cables. Also analog and ISDN telephone connections are often wired with modular cables and Digital Equipment Corporation defined in the past a data cable system based on modular cables with the name DECConnect.
  • 119.  Parallel cables are historically mainly used to connect printers to computers. The seven or eight parallel data lines ensure a fast data exchange which is important when large print jobs are processed. The parallel interface is however also capable for two-way communication and specifically for this purpose the Interlink or Laplink cable has been developed. This cable makes it possible to exchange data between computers if the right software is used. Layouts for the regular printer cable and the Laplink cable are present on these pages. PLC cables are used to connect industrial controllers with computers and peripherals. There is a huge mess of cable layouts around, because almost every manufacturer decided to define its own wiring scheme for a specific situation. The layouts for the most used cables are shown on these pages.
  • 120. What are the three essential components of a modern computer? • Be general or specific
  • 121. A computer is an device that receives information (input), processes information, and outputs information input/output device that processes information
  • 122. Key parts of a computer Input vs. output Interconnection between parts
  • 123. Box - Central Processing Unit (CPU) Monitor - main output device Keyboard - main input device
  • 124. All processing goes through the box A simple input/output (I/O) device Ports on back for connection of input and output devices Disk drives on front for storage I/O
  • 125.  Monitor  Keyboard  CPU (The Box)  Floppy Drive  CD-ROM  Printer  Scanner  Modem  Digital Camera  CD Writer/Burner  Hard Drive  LCD Projector  Laser Pointer  Network Card  Bluetooth Card  Speakers
  • 127. Processor – e.g. Pentium IV Memory – e.g. 256 MB RAM Storage – e.g. Hard Drive, CD-RW Slots & Cards We will cover this on Monday
  • 128. Standard keyboard - 101 key, letters, number-pad, function keys Microsoft Natural Keyboard - “Ergonomic” design, supposedly better for wrists Wrist support is important The future?
  • 129.  Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) - standard monitor, inexpensive, good resolution, good pixel size  Flat Panel (Liquid Crystal Display - LCD) – more expensive, prices dropping
  • 130.  Size is most important factor • Get a 17” CRT or 15” LCD or bigger  Note 15” LCD is about the same as a 17” CRT • 15” CRT cheaper but will seem very small  Dot size advertised, not that big of a factor  Viewable Area – 15.8” for a 17” CRT  Maximum resolution – look for at least 1280 x 1024
  • 132.  Standard Two-Button: Left button for selecting, right button for properties  Wheeled Mouse - Wheel for scrolling  Trackball - Inverted mouse  Touchpad - Touch/tap sensitive  “Eraser”/Joystick
  • 133.  Most mice have a round ball and rollers – rollers must be cleaned  Newer mice are OPTICAL, using LED and sensor to track movement
  • 134.  Flatbed Scanners - Lay image flat on “copier”- like glass panel. Scanning element moves  Photo Scanners - Run a single photo through a scanner - photo moves, scanning element stays stationary  What you pay for: resolution, color quality, connectivity  Speed: USB connection faster than Parallel  All scanners on market sufficient for web
  • 135.  Camera without film  Pixel resolution measures number of dots  Pixel resolution is key: 640x480 vs. 1280x1024 (1.3 Megapixels) vs. 2048X1536 (3.3 Megapixels)  Storage can be on flash memory cards, memory sticks, floppy disks, internal, or no storage (web cam)  How to unload images is important
  • 136. What is the common language in which input and output devices communicate?
  • 138.  Inkjet Printers - Tiny dots of ink on paper • Can print high quality photos • Ink is expensive!  Laser Printers - Laser, plastic toner, and heat; drawback: no color  Color Laser Printers - ~$600 and up  Dot Matrix Printers
  • 139. Similar to monitors but project image New to computer market (last 5 years) Expensive, becoming cheaper every day (some under $1000 now) For business and education, some people getting them for home theatre systems
  • 140. MOdulator / DEModualter = MO-DEM Converts digital computer signal to analog telephone signal and vice versa Sends and receives information 56K is current standard Connect speeds often slower than 56K
  • 141.  Cable Modems convert from cable interface to Ethernet or USB interface.  External, $50-$200 to buy  Must subscribe to Broadband/ Cable Internet Service through your cable provider  Best way to go from home but expensive ($45/month)  Cable provider has a monopoly so prices won’t drop
  • 142. Digital Subscriber Line • Works over phone line but doesn’t interfere with phone calls • The speed is much higher than a regular modem (1.5 Mbps vs. 56 Kbps) • Works better closer to phone company • Not available everywhere
  • 143. Network cards allow connection to the Internet via ETHERNET Wireless network cards require a wireless router to connect Ethernet is FAST!
  • 144. Media refers to the objects on which information is stored Singular of word is medium A CD is a medium for storage, a floppy disk is a medium, …
  • 145. “Drive” Storage: magnetic film stores 1s and 0s Hard Drives - Internal, sealed platters Floppy Drive - One flexible platter Zip Drive – Very high capacity floppy Most rewritable storage is magnetic
  • 146. CD-ROM – 650MB or 700 MB, read only, etched pits  drives 32X etc. for speed relative to normal DVD - stands for Digital Versatile Disc, 4.7 Gb (7X CD)
  • 147. CD RW • 48x/16x/52x means 48x maximum write speed, 16x max. rewrite speed, and 52x max. read speed Media: CD-R is cheapest, write once CD-RW – good medium for transporting files
  • 148. What are the three essential components of a modern computer? • Be general or specific
  • 149. A computer is an device that receives information (input), processes information, and outputs information input/output device that processes information
  • 150. Key parts of a computer Input vs. output Interconnection between parts
  • 151. Box - Central Processing Unit (CPU) Monitor - main output device Keyboard - main input device
  • 152. All processing goes through the box A simple input/output (I/O) device Ports on back for connection of input and output devices Disk drives on front for storage I/O
  • 153.  Monitor  Keyboard  CPU (The Box)  Floppy Drive  CD-ROM  Printer  Scanner  Modem  Digital Camera  CD Writer/Burner  Hard Drive  LCD Projector  Laser Pointer  Network Card  Bluetooth Card  Speakers
  • 155. Processor – e.g. Pentium IV Memory – e.g. 256 MB RAM Storage – e.g. Hard Drive, CD-RW Slots & Cards We will cover this on Monday
  • 156. Standard keyboard - 101 key, letters, number-pad, function keys Microsoft Natural Keyboard - “Ergonomic” design, supposedly better for wrists Wrist support is important The future?
  • 157.  Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) - standard monitor, inexpensive, good resolution, good pixel size  Flat Panel (Liquid Crystal Display - LCD) – more expensive, prices dropping
  • 158.  Size is most important factor • Get a 17” CRT or 15” LCD or bigger  Note 15” LCD is about the same as a 17” CRT • 15” CRT cheaper but will seem very small  Dot size advertised, not that big of a factor  Viewable Area – 15.8” for a 17” CRT  Maximum resolution – look for at least 1280 x 1024
  • 160.  Standard Two-Button: Left button for selecting, right button for properties  Wheeled Mouse - Wheel for scrolling  Trackball - Inverted mouse  Touchpad - Touch/tap sensitive  “Eraser”/Joystick
  • 161.  Most mice have a round ball and rollers – rollers must be cleaned  Newer mice are OPTICAL, using LED and sensor to track movement
  • 162.  Flatbed Scanners - Lay image flat on “copier”- like glass panel. Scanning element moves  Photo Scanners - Run a single photo through a scanner - photo moves, scanning element stays stationary  What you pay for: resolution, color quality, connectivity  Speed: USB connection faster than Parallel  All scanners on market sufficient for web
  • 163.  Camera without film  Pixel resolution measures number of dots  Pixel resolution is key: 640x480 vs. 1280x1024 (1.3 Megapixels) vs. 2048X1536 (3.3 Megapixels)  Storage can be on flash memory cards, memory sticks, floppy disks, internal, or no storage (web cam)  How to unload images is important
  • 164. What is the common language in which input and output devices communicate?
  • 166.  Inkjet Printers - Tiny dots of ink on paper • Can print high quality photos • Ink is expensive!  Laser Printers - Laser, plastic toner, and heat; drawback: no color  Color Laser Printers - ~$600 and up  Dot Matrix Printers
  • 167. Similar to monitors but project image New to computer market (last 5 years) Expensive, becoming cheaper every day (some under $1000 now) For business and education, some people getting them for home theatre systems
  • 168. MOdulator / DEModualter = MO-DEM Converts digital computer signal to analog telephone signal and vice versa Sends and receives information 56K is current standard Connect speeds often slower than 56K
  • 169.  Cable Modems convert from cable interface to Ethernet or USB interface.  External, $50-$200 to buy  Must subscribe to Broadband/ Cable Internet Service through your cable provider  Best way to go from home but expensive ($45/month)  Cable provider has a monopoly so prices won’t drop
  • 170. Digital Subscriber Line • Works over phone line but doesn’t interfere with phone calls • The speed is much higher than a regular modem (1.5 Mbps vs. 56 Kbps) • Works better closer to phone company • Not available everywhere
  • 171. Network cards allow connection to the Internet via ETHERNET Wireless network cards require a wireless router to connect Ethernet is FAST!
  • 172. Media refers to the objects on which information is stored Singular of word is medium A CD is a medium for storage, a floppy disk is a medium, …
  • 173. “Drive” Storage: magnetic film stores 1s and 0s Hard Drives - Internal, sealed platters Floppy Drive - One flexible platter Zip Drive – Very high capacity floppy Most rewritable storage is magnetic
  • 174. CD-ROM – 650MB or 700 MB, read only, etched pits  drives 32X etc. for speed relative to normal DVD - stands for Digital Versatile Disc, 4.7 Gb (7X CD)
  • 175. CD RW • 48x/16x/52x means 48x maximum write speed, 16x max. rewrite speed, and 52x max. read speed Media: CD-R is cheapest, write once CD-RW – good medium for transporting files
  • 176.  Particularly, you'll need to know the difference between HD Ready and Full HD. In the most basic terms, HD Ready TVs and set top boxes can show you 720p ...  Full HD is a term used to describe television display technology that is a standard for high-definition television in terms of video quality and sharpness. It is defined as an image with a resolution of 1920 by 1080 pixels. ... Full HD is also known as 1080 progressive or 1080p.  A cathode ray tube (CRT) is a specialized vacuumtube in which images are produced when an electron beam strikes aphosphorescent surface. Most desktop computer displays make useof CRTs. The CRT in a computer display is similar to the"picture tube" in a television receiver.
  • 177.  WHAT IS ISDN  WHAT IS UTP  How it`s work Aston Martin DB9  Definition of a Computer  Write the similarities and difference of spec.sheeet and Tech.pack in apparel industry  How to express Pixel resolution measures number of dots  LCD Projectors  Explain parts of computer  What is the difference between 1st sample and production sample
  • 178. 3. Computer grading ,marker making and Plotter Interface 3.1. Provisions in CAD Patternmaking • Digitizing