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1 of 66
Syntetiske fibre
3D-printning af bæredygtigt tøj
www.tekstilbiologi.dk
Tekstilbiolog/designer
2
Hvor meget plast i tøj?
Worldwide fiber production.
SOURCE: Data from Fiber Economics Bureau of the American Fiber Manufacturing Association.
4
Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)
54%
46%
16%
28%
23%
30%
70%
Materialer i Tøj (EU)
5
Generel opfattelse af syntetiske
fibre
Miljøbelastende
UKomfortabel
”Ikke relevant for mig”
(Volumen)…
Syntetiske fibre
7
Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling (transport)
8
Impacts of textile consumption in the EU-27 according to the ReCiPe's midpoint (a) and 4ndpoint (b) indicators.
Miljøbelastning af tekstil forbrug
Livscyklus-faser
9
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
10
Tekstile fibre
Naturlige <> syntetiske
Klassificering – tekstile fibre
12
13
Manufactured - Modificérbar
14
Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling (transport)
15
http://www.lenzing.com/en/concern/sustainability.html
16
http://www.lenzing.com/en/concern/sustainability.html
17
Material Sustainability Index
http://msi.apparelcoalition.org
18
Material Sustainability Index
http://msi.apparelcoalition.org
19
IMPRO – textiles (2014)
20
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
21
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
24%
70%
<1%
80%
20%40%60%
(IMPRO Textiles 2014)
25% 75%
22
(mikro)plast i havet
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
24
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
25
70%
80%
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
26
Syntetiske tekstil fibre
Generelle egenskaber
Egenskaber
• Varme-følsomme
• Modstandsdygtig
– Fleste kemikalier
– Insekter, svampe, råd
– Sollys, regn
• Lav fugt-absorption
• Statisk elektrisk
• Slidstyrke høj
• Pilling
• Formstabil (resilience)
• Lette
• Elastiske
• Lugt
• Isolerende
28
Syntetiske tekstil fibre
Typer
Nylon
Polyester
Olefin
Akryl
• Nylon
• Polyester
• Olefin
• Acrylic
16%
30
10%
≈3%
10%
Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)
Polyaminer (PA)
PET
Polyethylen (PE)
Polypropylen (PP)
Poly(methyl
methacrylate) (PMMA)
• Nylon
• Polyester
• Olefin
• Acrylic
Nylon66
Polyester fabric
Polypropylene fabric
Knit Acrylic fabric
Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)
31
16%
10%
≈3%
10%
Syntetiske tekstil fibre
Typer
Nylon
Polyester
Olefin
Akryl
33
33
Polyurethan (PUR)
Elasthane
Dorlastan
Lycra
Supplex
35
Syntetiske tekstil fibre
Typer
Nylon
Polyester
Olefin
Akryl
37
Polyester
Midweight Thermax® T-neck By
Duofold (for Women)
Extraordinary warmth, wicking
power and soft comfort. 100%
Thermax® 38
Syntetiske tekstil fibre
Typer
Nylon
Polyester
Olefin
Akryl
40http://triocean.com.tw/#about-us
Dyneema: 96% cotton, 4% polyethylene 33% polypropylene
41
ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber
(PET PET/PP)
42
Syntetiske tekstil fibre
Typer
Nylon
Polyester
Olefin
Akryl
http://www.dralon.com http://drytex.es
44
Genanvendelse
• Nylon
• Polyester
• Olefin
• Acrylic
Nylon66
Polyester fabric
Recycl Polyester fabric
Polypropylene fabric
Knit Acrylic fabric
46
Mikroorganismer
47
48
fungi
Schizophyllum Commune
Pleurotus Ostreatus
Katharina Unger and Julia Kaisinger
http://www.livinstudio.com/fungi-mutarium/
49
…took six weeks to completely
degrade just a small film of low-
grade PET, and breaking down
the higher-quality material used
in packaging would take even
longer
Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling (transport)
50
Miljøbelastende
UKomfortabel
”Ikke så vigtig” (Volumen)…
Birgit@birgitbonefeld.dk
3d-elektrospinding af
(bæredygtigt?) tøj…
3D-printet tøj
52
53
5454
Poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA)
Poly(ethylene oxide) (PEO)
Poly(lactic acid)
Materialer
55
Konstruktion
56
Anvendelse
Bomuldspose: x131, før
dens klimaaftryk bliver
mindre end plastposens.
Bruges i gennemsnit 51
gange
Stofbleer: mere vand og
udleder mere flydende
affald Engangsbleer: mere
affald i fast form og
forbruger flere
råmaterialer.
57
3d elektrospundet beklædning af
biprodukt keratin
58
Syntetiske fibre
3D-printning af bæredygtigt tøj
birgit@birgitbonefeld.dk
www.Tekstilbiologi.dk
60
61
IMPRO – textiles (2014)
62
63
IMPRO Textiles
2014
64
IMPRO Textiles
2014
Fiber blending
65
• the longer lifetime of polyester and
of cotton/polyester fibre blend
• the lower temperature for washing
(40 °C for the T-shirt containing
some polyester compared to 45.8
°C for cotton) reduces the impact of
the use phase
IMPRO Textiles
2014
Controlled De-Cross-Linking and Disentanglement of Feather Keratin for Fiber Preparation via a Novel Process
ACS Sustainable Chem. Eng., 2014, 2 (6), pp 1404–1410
66

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Syntetiske tekstilfibre – 3d elektrospinding af bæredygtigt tøj

Editor's Notes

  1. Tekstilproduktion er globalt den fjerde største kilde til forurening, næst efter opvarmning til huse, transport og elektricitet (Beton, 2011). 
  2. http://gpktt.weebly.com/classification-of-textile-fibers.html
  3. http://webgarderoben.dk/produkter/88-klinikbukser/623-coolmax-damejeans/
  4. http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/jeans-young/item/levis005011653/ http://endyma.com/products/1997-reverse-raw-polypropylene-denim-jeans?variant=938047693
  5. http://www.fleetfeetmurfreesboro.com/resources/how-to-dress-for-cold-weather-running
  6. http://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/projects/albums/dress-fabrication/
  7. http://www.tena.dk/om-tena/baeredygtighed/ Smart Dummy for fashion set. Designed by: Hong Kong polytechnic university's institute of Textiles & clothing. https://www.facebook.com/299211350112542/videos/1149867845046884/
  8. Smart Dummy for fashion set. Designed by: Hong Kong polytechnic university's institute of Textiles & clothing. https://www.facebook.com/299211350112542/videos/1149867845046884/
  9. 2011_Assessment of impacts of options to reduce the use of single-use plastic carrier bags http://ec.europa.eu/environment/waste/packaging/pdf/report_options.pdf Hvor meget benyttes tøj, inden det bortsmides? Smart Dummy for fashion set. Designed by: Hong Kong polytechnic university's institute of Textiles & clothing. https://www.facebook.com/299211350112542/videos/1149867845046884/