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Single
malts
Issue 3
                     For isk Enthusiasts



the art oF
blenDing
with richard Patterson



                                   Dubai First Whisky
                                        Festival 2010
                                        in association with
                                                        mmi

                                         the Dalmore
                                     58 years, selene
                                          with fraser jones

                                          highland heros
                                         with jonathan castle
Exclusively available in all MMI, Spinney’s & OUA retail shops
PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY


2   SINGLE MALTS                              SINGLE MALTS   3
“At Highland Park we make whisky the traditional way:
                   hand-turning the malt; cutting peat by hand from our own
                   moor; maturing the spirit in our custom-made sherry butts;
                   nurturing it in Orkney’s gentle maritime climate; marrying
                   the whisky in cask to allow it to settle. Our intention is to
                   make the best whisky possible. That can’t be done by cutting
                   corners in the name of efficiency. This philosophy has earned
                   us many plaudits, including Distiller of the Year 2007 *.
                   A lifetime in the making, H I G H L A N D PA R K 4 0 Y E A R O L D
                   is the flagship expression of the most respected single malt
                   whisky in the world.”



                                                   Russell Anderson, Distillery Manager




    www.highlandpark.co.uk                                                                              * San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2007
4   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                    5
                                                                                          Exclusively available in all MMI, Spinney’s & OUA retail shops
                                                                                                                                   SINGLE MALTS
Editor’s Toast




                   Editor’s
                   ToasT
                   W
                              elcome to the third edition of Single Malt
                              Magazine. We’ve been in whisky overdrive
                              since last time out with events in both Dubai
                   and Abu Dhabi.
                      The Whisky Festival at Taste Dubai was a big hit with
                   both experienced tipplers and novices alike - all our
                   master classes packed out. In the capital we hooked
                   up with some single malt fiends for their ‘Guessamalt’
                   tasting where a great evening was had by all.
                      We’ve gone behind the scenes of The Dalmore’s latest
                   super premium launch, the Selene, and caught up with
                   its creator, Master Blender Richard Paterson, for a quick
                   Q + A.
                      Furthermore, All things Highland are investigated
                   in our main feature including an in depth look at
                   Glenmorangie and the incredible ‘16 Men
                   of Tain’.


                                                                               Dubai
                   Slainte Mhath!                                              Whisky
                   John Gillespie                                              Festival
                                                                               2010                                were forced to
                                                                               lance of supply vs demand they
                                                                                                                       portfolio that
                                                                               pick off those producers from their
                                                                                                                         whiskies.
                                                                               offered the least character to blended
                                                                                                                       malts are a
                                                                                It must be remembered that single
                                                                                                                        now, over
                                                                                relatively new phenomena and even
                                                                                                                        distilleries
                                                                                90% of Scotch is blended. Lowland
                                                                                were hit particularly   hard as their delicate, subtle
                                                                                                                     value to the
                                                                                 aromas were considered of little
                                                                                                                         consumers
                                                                                 blended market. Only recently have
                                                                                                                     these lost
                                                                                 really appreciated what it is that
                                                                                                                       where
                                                                                 distilleries had to offer. Likewise,
                                                                                 distilling companies had more     than one distillery
                                                                                  making similar   styled malts, difficult decisions
                                                                                                                          rare stocks
                                                                                  had to be made. What’s left of these
                                                                                                                         – when its
                                                                                  should now be consumed with care
                                                                                  gone, its gone!




                                                                   Next Issue
                                                                   •	 The	Lost	Lowlands	–	Single	Malt	
                                                                   	 investigates	the	once	thriving	
                                                                   	 Lowlands	distilleries
                                                                   •	 Small	in	size,	not	in	character	-	the	
                                                                   	 increasing	popularity	of	farm	distilleries
                                                                   •	 Dram	good	curry	–	spicy	up	your		
                                                                   	 Indian	cooking	with	a	shot	of	the	
                                                                   	 good	stuff
                                                                   •	 Sherry?	Yes	please.	What	does	
                                                                   	 granny”s	favourite	tipple	do	
                                                                   	 for	your	malt?




6   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                  SINGLE MALTS   7
Contents




         38
         The	Dalmore	Selene	58YO	Launch




                                                 52
                                          hotspots		Edinburgh


                                                                        Contents
                                                                        10   Dubai Whisky Festival 2010
                                                                        14   What’s New
                                                                        18   Top 10
                                                                        20   Inside Highlands
                                                                        30   Guessamalt, Abu Dhabi
                                                                        32   Jim Murray Whisky Bible
                                                                        36   Richard Paterson Q&A
                                                                        38   Dalmore Selene 58 year old Launch
                                                                        40   What makes a malt
                                                                        42   Whisky & Cigar Pairings
                                                                        44   Highland Heroes with Glenmorangie
                                                                        48   Nose of the month
                                                                        52   Hotspots Edinburgh
                                                                        56   Edinburgh Fringe Festival
                                                                        60   Scottish Style “The Kilt”
                                                                        62


                                                          20
                                                                             Events
                                                                        64   Ask the Expert, with Fraser Jones

                                                            Highlands


8   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                            SINGLE MALTS   9
                                                                                                                 PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY
Dubai
Whisky
Festival
2010
                                   r’s Taste of Dubai Festival
MMI raised the bar at this yea
with the ever popular Bev     erage Theatre suppor ted for
                                whisky experience and the
the first time by a separate
                                 s Lounge’.
beautifully presented ‘Le Clo                            out with
    The Single Mal  t tasting sessions were packed
                                 r  the course of the four day
hundreds of par ticipants ove
                                  a special chocolate and
 festival. Gatherings included
                                   junction with Chivas and
 whisky pairing hosted in con                                 to
 French gourmands, Valr     hona. Experts were on hand
                                      through   the ultra-rare
 guide a lucky few par ticipants
                                   le other sessions included
  “Closed Distillery” range whi
                                   Scotland’s diverse malt
  Japanese whiskies, a tour of
                                    rse St.Patricks day saw a
  styles and Islay icons. Of cou
                                     h!
  celebration of all whiskies Iris
                                              attraction wowing
     Coo per Dan Meikleman was a star                      d’s
   crowds with his dec   ades of experience in Scotlan
                                  rt of  a tale or two, the expert
   greatest industr y. Never sho
                                      okers while showing off the
   barrel maker entertained onlo
   timeless craft of the cooper.
WhaT’s
      NEW?
        MOrE	C
                                ,	MOrE	LOCATIOnS.
               HOICE,	MOrE	vALuE ITH	MMI…
                         EErfuL	W
                                                 	

        rEASOnS	TO	BE	CH
                                          ly working to br
                                                             ing you more             GlENFIDDICh
         a                                                                            40-yEar olD
                t MM  I, we’re constant                   r value all the tim
                                                                              e.
                                      ce and even bette
                 choice, convenien                    th e opening of ou
                                                                           r
                                    ed to announce
                 So we’re delight                     d in Dubai Festi
                                                                        val
                                                                                      CollECTIblE rElEasED
                                   nveniently locate
         new   flagship store co                of our othe  r 10 outlets
                             w store, or any            m the largest wi
                                                                          ne
         City. Visit our ne         ck up a bottle fro                         e      Single-malt	Scotch	distillery	Glenfiddich	
         across   the city, and pi            – there’s alw  ays great in-stor
                            olio in the gulf                          course          announced	the	launch	of	a	limited	edition	
         and spirit portf                         e for less. Plus of
                              ring you get mor                  ed in this issue      40	Year	Old	expression.	It	is	the	6th	set	of	
          promotions ensu                     gle malts featur
                                fabulous sin                                          Glenfiddich	40	Year	Old,	and	only	600	will	be	
          yo u’ll find all the
                             Magazine.                                                presented	on	the	world	market	at	a	price	of	
          of your Whisky
                                                                                      $2,600	per	bottle.




                                                                                   DubaI lauNChEs
                                                                                   ThE MaCallaN
                                                                                   pErFECT sErvE
                                                                                   Beverage	purists	argue	that	ice	should	never	be	introduced	
                                                                                   to	a	quality	scotch	whisky.	Such	thinking	rests	on	the	theory	
                                                                                   that	when	holding	a	glass,	your	body	heat	will	melt	the	ice,	
                                                                                   resulting	in	a	diluted	spirit	and	sub-par	drinking	experience.	
                                                                                   In	order	to	make	a	scotch	cold	without	diluting	it,	Scottish	
                                                                                   whisky	purveyors	The	Macallan	created	a	clever	ice	ball	
                                                                                   maker.	The	machine	creates	a	ball	of	ice	precisely	sized	to	
                                                                                   fit	into	an	average	tumbler.	The	spherical	nature	slows	the	
                                                                                   melting	process	making	it	less	susceptible	to	hand	warmth,	
                                                                                   preserving	the	liquor	while	keeping	it	refreshingly	cool.	
                                                                                   Exclusively	available	at	Address	Hotels,	Dubai,	Emirates	
                                                                                   Palace	Abu	Dhabi	and	Chedi	in	Oman




14   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                    SINGLE MALTS   15
What’s New




          100-yEar-olD                                                            WhyTE & MaCkay
                                                                                  uNvEIls ThE alMorE MaCkENzIE
          WhIsky FouND uNDEr ErNEsT
          shaCklEToN’s huT                                                        lIMITED EDITIoN

                                                                                  Scotch whisky distiller Whyte & Mackay last night
     That’s the spirit! Cases of           news has emerged that the crates       unveiled The Dalmore Mackenzie limited edition, the
     Mackinlay’s ‘Rare Old’ scotch         of whisky long suspected to have       latest line extension of its leading Highland single
     whisky have been recovered            been entombed by ice outside Sir       malt, in the spectacular setting of Scotland’s National
     from the ice outside Shackleton’s     Ernest Shackleton’s Antarctic hut      Gallery in Edinburgh.
     Antarctic hut. What will it taste     have finally been recovered.           Only 3,000 limited edition bottles of the edition are
     like?                                 The spirits, supplied by the           being released, of which 600 will be available in
     Cases of Mackinlay’s whisky           Scottish distillers Whyte and          travel retail, principally through specialist whisky
     found intact under the hut            Mackay, were excavated from            outlets such as World of Whiskies. The retail price is
     used by the British Antarctic         underneath Shackleton’s Antarctic      around £100.
     Expedition of 1907-1909 (The          hut by the New Zealand Antarctic       Whyte & Mackay said the launch “marks a new era
     SS Nimrod expedition), led by         Heritage Trust, who are involved       in the distillery’s long affiliation with The Mackenzie
     Sir Ernest Shackleton. Cape           in restoration work on the Cape        Clan”. The Dalmore Mackenzie launch was inspired
     Royds, McMurdo side, Antarctica.      Royds building, as well as the         by the act of courage from an ancestor of Clan
     Photograph: New Zealand               Cape Evans hut later used by           Mackenzie when he saved King Alexander III of
     Antarctic Heritage Trust              Captain Robert Scott as his            Scotland in 1263 from being gored by a stag, a scene
     After some hype and anticipation      expedition base                        that is depicted in a famous painting by Benjamin
                                                                                  West that hangs in the National Gallery – next to
                                                                                  which guests enjoyed dinner last night.



                                   EDrINGToN
                                   lauNCh
                                   park40
                                   hIGhlaND

                                   as a 5Cl MINIaTurE                             IT Is WITh GrEaT plEasurE
                                                                                  ThaT WE INTroDuCE our
     Back in April 2008, launched             The 40 Year Old has been
                                                                                  NEW MasTEr DIsTIllEr oF
     Highland Park 40 Year Old, at the     largely matured in refill casks,       ThE GlENlIvET,
     time the oldest whisky ever bottled
     by the distillery. The response was
                                              that is to say casks that have
                                           previously been used to mature         alan Winchester
     terrific and the critics adored it;   whisky; every time a cask is           He	brings	a	wealth	of	technical	expertise,	experience	and	love	for	
     Highland Park 40 Year Old was         used, its ability to impart            The	Glenlivet	to	this	crucial	role.	He	describes	his	appointment	
     named World’s Best New Release        an influence on the spirit is          as,	“A	huge	honour.	My	main	job	will	be	to	maintain	the	tradition	
     at the World Whisky Awards and        diminished. When laying down a         started	by	George	Smith	–	a	tradition	of	the	highest	quality,	that	
     Jim Murray described it as “sheer     whisky for extended maturation,        the	industry	looks	to	as	a	reference	point.	no	other	distillery	
     poetry” in his Whisky Bible 2010.     we don’t want the cask to              combines	a	unique,	pioneering	role	in	the	Scotch	industry	with	
        Now delighted to announce the      dominate the spirit; 40 years allows   such	an	enduring	reputation	for	quality
     release of Highland Park 40 Year      time for the perfect balance to
     Old as a 5cl miniature.               be achieved.


16   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                       SINGLE MALTS   17
Top 10




          Where to Find a
          GooD DraM                                                              sCoTlaND’s Top 10
          fEATurInG	OvEr	20	SInGLE	MALTS,	InCLuDInG	
          8	Of	TOP	10	In	THE	WOrLD,	AnD	A	furTHEr	20	                            olDEsT DIsTIllErIEs
          MOrE	BrAnDS	AvAILABLE	On	rEquEST,	THErE’S	
          SOMETHInG	fOr	EvErYOnE                                                 1    Balblair ........................................................................................1790
                                                                                 2    Blair Athol ...................................................................................1798
          Dubai Flagship retail store                                            3    Bowmore .....................................................................................1779
          Le Clos ......................................Tel:   04   220   3583   4    Glenburgie ..................................................................................1810
          Al Wasl ....................................Tel:     04   232   5522   5    Glen Garioch ...............................................................................1797
          Mall of Emirates .......................Tel:         04   341   0371   6    Glenturret ....................................................................................1775
          Ibn Battuta ..............................Tel:       04   368   5626   7    Oban............................................................................................1794
          Trade Centre ...........................Tel:         04   352   3091   8    Strathisla......................................................................................1786
          Shiekh Zayed Road ..................Tel:             04   321   1223   9    Tobermory...................................................................................1798
                                                                                 10   Highland Park .............................................................................1798




                                                                                 sCoTlaND’s Top 10
                                                                                 NEWEsT DIsTIllErIEs
                                                                                 1    Ailsa Bay .....................................................................................2007
                                                                                 2    Roseisle .......................................................................................2009
                                                                                 3    Abhainn Dearg ............................................................................2008
          Dubai Festival City ...................Tel: 04 232 5522                4    Daftmill .......................................................................................2005
          Opening Hours for all stores                                           5    Speyside ......................................................................................1976
          11:00am-9pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays                                6    Kininvie .......................................................................................1990
                                                                                 7    Kilchoman ...................................................................................2005
          spinney’s Flagship retail stores                                       8    Glengyle ......................................................................................2004
          Spinneys Muroor .....................Tel: 02 641 9366                  9    Arran ...........................................................................................1993
          Spinneys Khalidiya .................Tel: 02 681 2356                   10   Allt-a-Bhainne .............................................................................1975
          Spinneys Al Ain .......................Tel: 03 763 6367

          Opening Hours for all stores
          10:00am-1pm & 4pm – 8.30pm (Sat-Thurs).
          Closed Fridays

          oman Flagship retail stores
          OUA Madinat Qaboos .................Tel: 2460 3892
          SCS Azaiba...................................Tel: 2449 5157
          OUA Ruwi ..................................Tel: 2470 4031

          Opening Hours for all stores
          9am-1pm & 5pm-9pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays


          Sign up to the Single Malt
          Society and find out about
          whiSky eventS and excluSive
          offerS throughout the uae. for
          More inforMation log on to our
          webSite: www.MMidubai.coM

18   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                                                             SINGLE MALTS   19
Inside highlands




                        The High
                        roaD
                        frOM	nOrTHErn	JOHn	O’GrOATS	TO	HELEnSBurGH	In	THE	SOuTH,	THE	HIGHLAnDS	
                        EnCOMPASS	SCOTLAnD’S	MOST	DIvErSE	SCEnErY,	AnD	MOST	vArIED	WHISkIES




                        a
                                  sk almost anyone to picture Scotland and it is a land      Geographically, The Highlands as a region is defined as
                                  of heatherclad mountains that they will envision.       everything north of the Highland Boundary Fault, a line that
                                  The Highlands define the very essence of Scotland:      runs roughly diagonal across the country from Stonehaven
                                  remote, spectacular, hauntingly beautiful, hard to      in the North East, through Loch Lomond and out across the
                        reach and even harder to leave.                                   Firth of Clyde, crossing the northern tips of both Arran and
                           Hardly surprising, then, that this vast and complex region     Mull in the South West. Thus included are most of Scotland’s
                        is also home to an unparalleled range and diversity of single     mountains, including the highest, Ben Nevis, and most of her
                        malts, from the peaty blockbusters of the west, to sweetly        islands, including Jura, Skye and the Orkneys. The whisky
                        subtle nectars from the North and East.                           heartland of Speyside also falls within this region, but it is




20   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                          SINGLE MALTS   21
Inside highlands


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                USA. Glenturret, at Crieff, is one of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                claimants to being the oldest distillery,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                although it was dismantled in the 1920s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                and is much changed. Glenturret is a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                major tourist attraction with more visitors
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                than any other distillery in Scotland.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Finally, Tullibardine (mothballed in 1995)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                is close to Gleneagles, on the site of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                the first public brewery in Scotland and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                uses the same source of water. Nearby
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Deanston, in the village of Doune,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                occupies a converted cotton-mill, built in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                1785 by Richard Arkwright, the inventor
                                                                                                                                                                                               over sixty miles from Grantown-on-               of the ‘Spinning jenny’.
                                                                                                                                                                                               Spey. The original name of the distillery           These South Highlands malts are
                                                                                                                                                                                               was ‘Strathspey’. Its style certainly leans      lighter-bodied and sweeter that their
                                                                                                                                                                                               towards Speyside in character.                   cousins to the east, but not as sweet
                                                                                                                                                                                                  Further down the A9 you’ll find Blair         as Speysides. Like Speysides, they are
                                                                                                                                                                                               Athol Distillery near the town of the            fragrant - blossom, violets, elderflowers,
                                                                                                                                                                                               same name, and Edradour Distillery               heather, mint, spice, and pear notes are all
                                                                                                                                                                                               just down the road in Pitlochry. Blair           found in the nose - but they tend to have
                                                                                                                                                                                               Athol - founded in the 1790s and one of          a dry finish like other Highland malts,
                                                                                                                                                                                               Scotland’s oldest - and was substantially        and unlike Speysides.
                                                                                                                                                                                               rebuilt in 1949. Edradour is the smallest           As the largest recognised region in
                                                                                                                                                                                               distillery in Scotland, run by only two          Scottish whisky nomenclature, it is no
                                                                                                                                                                                               people and producing only 12 barrels a           surprise that its distilleries have a number
                                                                                                                                                                                               week. Though tiny, the whisky produced           of claims to fame – the oldest, most
                                                                                                                                                                                               is clean, fresh, attractive and justly           northerly, the highest, the world’s best
                                                                                                                                                                                               popular. The floral, minty, sweet-to-start /     selling, the smallest and so on. In fact,
                                                                                                                                                                                               dry-to-finish flavour of these whiskies are      they are a fascinating reflection of the
                                                                                                                                                                                               typical of the region.                           sheer beauty, scale and diversity of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                  South again is Aberfeldy Distillery on        region they occupy and the whiskies
                                                                                                                                                                                               the edge of the pretty town of the same          originating there capture all of that
                                                                                                                                                                                               name. It was built by Dewar’s in 1898,           diversity in their range of flavours and
          counted as a subset of the Highlands         the points of the compass, giving us            wood maturation, though the sherry-           whiskies, generally malty, slightly       and is still the ‘heart malt’ of their blend -   nuances. In many ways, ‘Highland’ is the
          and accorded a separate classification       Northern, Eastern, Western and Southern         finishing technique developed in the new      sweet, smooth, smoky and with             the most popular Scotch in the                   proudest name a whisky can bear.
          of its own, as is the south western island   Highlands. In reality, there is a fifth part    Glenmorangie range suits them well.           a surprisingly dry finish. South of
          of Islay.                                    which is the Islands, and though these are         Over in the West Highlands it’s a          Aberdeen you’ll find Royal Lochnagar
              As a result, distilleries given the      lumped with the Highlands for political         different story, partly due to geography,     and Glencadam - these tend to be
          distinction of calling their output          and administrative reasons, as a group the      partly climate. There are five distilleries   richer, more toffee-like, with citrus
          ‘Highland’ single malt are as disparate as   distilleries have their own character and       recognized officially as West Highlands,      notes, but still a whiff of smoke
          the land they inhabit – distilleries with    identity. Island and Islay distillers were      three on islands and two on the mainland.     and the dry finish. Further south is
          their toes in the Atlantic and the North     featured in Single Malt Issue two.              The island distilleries are Jura (Isle of     Fettercairn in the rich red farmland
          sea, in rolling arable pastures and high        The Northern Highlands is an area            Jura), Ledaig/Tobermory (Isle of Mull)        of the Meams, an underestimated
          mountain passes, the most northerly          of low-lying arable countryside and its         and Talisker (Isle of Skye). The mainland     malt with a fruity/fudge-like nose
          Scotch Whisky distillery (Highland           distilleries almost all enjoy a coastal         distilleries are Oban (in Oban itself, just   and a spicy finish. Glencadam is the
          Park), and almost the most southerly         setting. The exception is Clynelish, which      off the high street) and Ben Nevis in         last remaining distillery at Brechin
          (Glengoyne). In fact, Glengoyne distillery   sits slightly inland at the foot of the hills   the town of Fort William. If they share       and produces an unusual, creamy,
          sits astride the fault, and though the       behind Brora, at the heart of what used to      a characteristic it is a typical smoky/       fruity malt strongly reminiscent of
          whisky is matured on the Lowland side,       be a model Highland estate. These North         pepperiness, though nothing like as           tangerines.
          it is actually produced in the Highlands.    Highland malts tend to be light bodied,         strong as Islay malts and very much               Further south, you encounter what
          Loch Lomond distillery is similarly          delicate whiskies with complex aromas           depending upon age.                           used to be known as the ‘Perthshire
          schizophrenic, though it draws its water     and a dryish finish - sometimes spicy,             Over in the East Highlands are the         Whiskies’. Most are found along the
          from the Highlands side of the fault and     sometimes with a trace of salt. Some            malts from distilleries north of the city     valleys of the Tay and its tributaries,
          so bestows the Highland name on              are slightly peaty (Clynelish, Balblair);       of Aberdeen – Macduff, home to the            the Tummel and the Earn. The most
          its whiskies.                                in others the smoke is more prominent           Glen Deveron malt, Knockdhu, Ardmore,         northerly of these is Dalwhinnie,
              In whisky terms, the region is divided   (Pulteney, Teaninich, Dalmore). Northern        Glendronach and Glengarrioch. They            which qualifies as a Speyside, although
          officially into four parts, named after      malts don’t usually undergo much sherry-        tend to produce more medium-bodied            it is at the very head of the river,


22   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     SINGLE MALTS   23
Inside highlands a-z

          abErFElDy
          The Aberfeldy Distillery was established
          in 1898 by the sons of John Dewar, one                                                                                                                                                                                     expression of a ‘Perthshire Malt’.
          of the first men to produce blended
          whisky and who’s name to this day                                                                                                                                                                                          EDraDour
          crowns one of the largest whisky                                                                                                                                                                                           The smallest distillery in Scotland,
          companies in the world. Still a working                                                                                                                                                                                    Edradour is the last surviving farm
          distillery, it is home to the Dewar’s                                                                                                                                                                                      distillery in Perthshire. Established in
          World of Whisky visitor centre and open                                                                                                                                                                                    1825, it is virtually unchanged and still
          for tours.                                                                                                                                                                                                                 uses the original equipment installed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     when it was started. Just three men
          balblaIr                                                                                                                                                                                                                   produce a total of 12 barrels of whisky
          Founded in 1790, Balblair Distillery                                                                                                                                                                                       a week of a very highly regarded
          is the second oldest working whisky                                                                                                                                                                                        Highland malt.
          distillery in Scotland. Situated at
          Edderton, in one of the most beautiful                                                                                                                                                                                     GlENCaDaM
          parts of the country, where the Ross-                                                                                                                                                                                      Established by George Cooper near
          shire burns flow down Struie Hill to the                                                                                                                                                                                   the Royal Burgh of Brechin in 1825,
          rich farmlands below and onwards to                                                                                                                                                                                        Glencadam is a little-known but
          the shores of the Dornoch Firth.                                                                                                                                                                                           productive Eastern Highland distillery.
             The air in Edderton is considered to                                                                                                                                                                                    Almost all of the production goes into
          be the purest in Scotland, and it is said                                                                                                                                                                                  Ballantine’s blends.
          that this contributes to Balblair’s mooth,
          light, delicate and refreshing taste.                                                                                                                                                                                      GlENGarIoCh
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Possibly Scotland’s oldest distillery,
          bEN NEvIs                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Glengarrioch was officially established
          The Ben Nevis Distillery is one of the                                                                                                                                                                                     in 1797 in the Garrioch valley,
          oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland.                                                                                                                                                                                  traditionally the finest barley growing
          It was established in 1825 by Long John                                                                                                                                                                                    area in Scotland. It is a small distillery
          McDonald, a 6ft 4in descendant of a                                                                                                                                                                                        and not normally open to visitors, but
          ruler of the western Scottish kingdom                                                                                                                                                                                      produces one of the most highly rated
          of Argyll. In 1989 the distillery was sold                                                                                                                                                                                 Highland malts.
          by Whitbread to Mitsui, partner of the
          Japanese whiskymakers Nikka, and the                                                                                                                                                                                       GlENGoyNE
          focus today is on quality, not volume.                                                                                                                                                                                     Established in 1833 just 12 miles north




                                                         A Highland
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     of Glasgow, Glengoyne is the most
          blaIr aThol                                                                                                                                                                                                                southerly of the ‘Highland’ distilleries,
          Blair Athol distillery was founded in                                                                                                                                                                                      and actually sits astride the Highland
          1798, but closed again soon after. It                                                                                                                                                                                      Boundary Fault. Whilst much of its
          remained closed until 1825, when it was                                                                                                                                                                                    production used to go for blending,
          reopened by John Robertson and a long                                                                                                                                                                                      an increasing proportion is now being




                                                         GazETTEEr
          line of different owners then followed                                                                                                                                                                                     enjoyed as a single malt.
          throughout the years. Only 5% of
          production is sold as single malt - Blair                                                                                                                                                                                  GlENMoraNGIE
          Athol is a main contributor to the Bell’s                                                                                                                                                                                  Established in 1843 at Tain, overlooking
          whisky blend.                                                                                                                                                                                                              the Dornoch Firth, the distillery actually
                                                         THE	A	–	Z	Of	EvErY	HIGHLAnD	DISTILLErY	CurrEnTLY	                                                                                                                           began production using a pair of very
          brora                                          WOrkInG	(AnD	OnE	THAT’S	nOT)                                                                                                                                                tall, second-hand gin stills. The shape of
          Not currently working, Brora has a                                                                                                                                                                                         those original stills played a significant
          fascinating history. Originally called                                                                                                                                                                                     role in the quality and refinement of the
          Clynelish, it was established in 1819.                                                                                             Dalmore 62 year old is currently the          through the Highlands.                    whisky and to this day Glenmorangie
          Then the new (and current) Clynelish         ClyNElIsh                                  DalMorE                                    world’s most expensive whisky.                                                          operates the tallest stills in Scotland.
          distillery was built over the road and       The ‘new’ Clynelish distillery went into   Dalmore Distillery was established in                                                    DEaNsToN
          the old one closed down in 1969.             production in 1968, replacing the old      1839 by Alexander Matheson, and sits       DalWhINNIE                                    A relatively recent introduction, the     GlEN orD
          However, it was re-opened in 1975 and        one which had originally been part of      on the shores of the Cromarty Firth        Originally named the Strathspey Distillery,   Deanston Distillery was built in 1965     The last remaining distillery on the
          produced the Brora single malt before        a ‘model’ Highland estate. The current     across the water from the Black Isle. It   the current Dalwhinnie sits at the head of    within the shell of a much older          Black Isle, an area noted for the quality
          closing in 1983. Brora is a much peatier     output is a highly regarded single malt    draws its water from the Alness river.     the river Spey in the village of the same     cotton mill which dates back to 1785.     of its barley, Glen Ord’s production is
          whisky than the new Clynelish, and was       much appreciated by blenders, and          The “twelve pointer stag” which adorns     name high in the Cairngorm mountains.         Produced from an unpeated malt,           mostly used for blending but a limited
          known as the ‘Lagavulin of the North’.       forms the backbone of the Johnnie          every bottle of Dalmore was introduced     Its traditional pagoda roofs are a famous     Deanston whisky is delightfully easy to   quantity can now be found bottled as a
          Intriguingly, the stills are still there…    Walker Gold Label blend.                   from the Mackenzie clan crest, and         sight from the nearby A9 main route           drink, and regarded as the perfect        single malt.


24   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           SINGLE MALTS   25
Inside highlands a-z

          GlENTurrET
          Officially founded in 1775, making it the
          oldest recognised distillery in Scotland,
          though illicit distilling took place
          in the same location for many years
          earlier. Home of ‘The Famous Grouse
          Experience’, Glenturret is the most
          visited distillery in Scotland.

          loCh loMoND
          The distillery was converted from a
          dyeing factory in the mid 1960s and is
          located very close to Loch Lomond. It
          actually sits on the Highland/Lowland
          line but as its water source is above
          the Highland line its production is
          considered as being of Highland origin.
          Loch Lomond can produce a number of
          different whiskies thanks to the unusual
          design of its stills.

          obaN
          Established in 1794 by the three
          Stevenson brothers who also founded
          the town of Oban itself. Though most of
          its output goes for blending, what little
          of the typically West Highland malt does
          escape as a single malt, is very highly
          regarded by connoisseurs.

          FETTErCaIrN
          Possibly the second oldest licensed
          distillery in Scotland, established in
          1824 and extended and rebuilt since.
          Primarily used for blending, a small
          amount is now released as a single malt.

          olD pulTNEy
          Established in 1826 in Wick, Pulteney
          Distillery is the most northerly distillery
          on the Scottish mainland and was
          originally only accessible by sea. The
          barley was brought in by sea, the
          whisky shipped out the same way and
          many of the distillery workers were
          also employed as fishermen. One of the
          finest Highland malts available.

          royal loChNaGar                               captain Hugh Munro in 1817, though           TullIbarDINE
          The Lochnagar distillery was established      he later he rented it out. Teaninich is      The Tullibardine Whisky distillery was
          by John Begg in 1845 near the village         famous because it was the first distillery   opened in 1949 on the site of a former
          of Crathie, close to Balmoral, the Royal      to have electricity. In 1971 a new still     brewery. It was opened by William
          family’s Scottish country home. The           house, called “Side A” with six stills,      Delme-Evans, architect of the Jura and
          distillery was given its “Royal” status in    was built, replacing the old stills that     Glenallachie distilleries. In 2003, it was
          1848 following a visit from the Queen’s       were later mothballed. The first official    purchased by a business consortium
          husband Prince Albert.                        bottlings of Teaninich single malt only      and is now the thriving heart of a retail
                                                        became available in 1992, and most of        complex and tourist attraction.
          TEaNINICh                                     the malt produced is still used in blends
          The Teaninich distillery was built by         such as Johnnie Walker.


26   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                 SINGLE MALTS   27
Inside highlands in Numbers




          Highlands in
         NuMbErs
          1%
          The proportion of Teaninich’s output
                                                      1775
                                                      The date when Glenturret distillery was
                                                                                                  12
                                                                                                  in 1263 an ancestor of future Dalmore
                                                                                                                                            3
                                                                                                                                            Men operate Scotland’s smallest            58,000                                   90
          released as a single malt.                  established, making it Scotland’s oldest.   owners Clan Mackenzie, saved King         distillery in the stunning Perthshire      In an English hotel one night in 2005    Copper pipes stretching 90 meters
                                                                                                  Alexander III from being gored by a       countryside. Edradour produces only        a gentleman bought The Dalmore’s         condense the evaporated spirit from

          12
          Total output in barrels per week from
                                                      1724
                                                      The date when Glen Garioch may have
                                                                                                  stag while he was hunting. The grateful
                                                                                                  King granted him the right to bear
                                                                                                  a 12 pointed or ‘Royal’ stag’s head
                                                                                                                                            12 casks of whisky a week making it
                                                                                                                                            a rare pleasure for only the fortunate
                                                                                                                                            few…
                                                                                                                                                                                       62 Year old malt for US$ 58,000. He
                                                                                                                                                                                       indulgently downed it the same night
                                                                                                                                                                                       with five of his friends.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                the still house at the mainland’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                northernmost distillery, Pulteney.

          Edradour, Scotland’s smallest distillery.   been established, under an earlier
                                                      name.
                                                                                                  on his coat of arms. The same stag’s
                                                                                                  head today adorns all bottles from the
                                                                                                                                            26                                         2                                        1833
          32,000
          The price in pounds sterling paid for a     1887
                                                                                                  Highland distiller.
                                                                                                                                            At a height of over 26 feet,
                                                                                                                                            Glenmorangie’s stills are the tallest in
                                                                                                                                                                                       The number of distilleries that were
                                                                                                                                                                                       at one point named Clyenlish. The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                The year in which Burnfoot distillery
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                was established by George Connell. It
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                is better known today as Glengoyne.
          single bottle of Dalmore 62.                The year when Alfred Barnard wrote                                                    Scotland and are based on the original     Scottish Whisky Association later
                                                      that Teanininh was lit by electricity.                                                former gin stills as installed in 1843.    demanded one of the names be
                                                                                                                                                                                       changed and Brora distillery was born.




28   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 SINGLE MALTS   29
Guessamalt, abu Dhabi




                             GuEssaMalT
                                 s
                                            ingle Malts Magazine has
                                            been in the capital this
                                            month to join a group of
                                            whisky aficionados at their
                                 ‘Guessamalt’ tasting dinner. Stanley
                                 Hartmann and Sonny Jonathans
                                 started the club in 2005 and since
                                 then have brought together scores of
                                 enthusiastic tipplers to their single
                                 malt events.
                                    The aim of the evening is
                                 somewhat given away by it’s name.
                                 Attendees are requested to bring a
                                 bottle of their favourite malt, all of
                                 which are then listed with tasting
                                 notes written by trade professionals.
                                 Throughout the course of the meal,
                                 this time hosted at the beautiful
                                 Mombasa Grille, Souq Qaryat Al Beri,
                                 drinkers are then invited to blind
                                 sample all the whiskies while trying
                                 to decipher which one they are.
                                    Prizes are given for most correct
                                 matches and also for the one who
                                 brought the malt receiving the
                                 highest average score of the evening
                                 – this time the people’s choice was
                                 the Macallan 12 Year Old Fine Oak.
                                 A thoroughly enjoyable evening was
                                 rounded off with the Macallan 25
                                 Old Fine Oak, served over a perfect
                                 sphere of ice courtesy of The Macllan
                                 iceball machine.
                                    If you’d like to get involved with
                                 the next Guessamalt evening, contact
                                 Stan on:
                                    T: 050 591 3454
                                    E: stanhart@eim.ae




30   SINGLE MALTS                                                         SINGLE MALTS   31
Jim Murray Whisky bible



                                     Jim
                               Murray
                               I
                                      f Jim Murray had followed his chosen path at the age
                                      of 13, things might have been very different in the
                                      whisky industry today. Murray claims that “at this age
                                      I had no intention in being a whisky writer, neither
                               did I aspire to be a journalist, broadcaster, Prime Minister
                               or racing driver. There was only one thing I wanted to be
                               - a professional cricketer. But it was not to be’. A loss for
                               the world of cricket – a gain for the world of whisky as Jim
                               Murray is now arguably one of the industry most influential
                               leading voices. In addition to his writing and broadcasting
                               on the subject, Murray has also worked as a consultant
                               blender for whisky and rum, as well as using his influence
                               to resurrect the closed distillery of Ardbeg. Murray is


                                                                                                 Jim Murray’s
                               famously fanatical about guarding the integrity and honesty
                               of his writing and has been vocal about how writing for
                               media dependant on advertising can lead to the compromise
                               of these values. To this end he now very selective about the      WorlD WhIsky aWarDs 2010
                               articles he contributes and always insists on retaining full
                               copyright on the writing he submits.                              Single Malt Scotch
                                  As a young man from Merstham, Surrey, Jim Murray’s             no	Age	Statement	(Multiple	cask)	–	Ardbeg	Supernova
                               interests lay closer to sport, which he followed avidly and       no	Age	Statement	(runner	up)	–	Glenmorangie	Sonnalta	PX
                               which he combined with his passion for journalism. This           10	Years	and	under	(Multiple	cask)	–	Octomore	5	Years	Old
                               blending of passions was to lead to the publication of his        10	Years	and	under	(Single	cask)	–	SMWS	77.17	(Glen	Ord)
                               first book: Lions of the South (1988), a history of Murray’s      11-15	Years	Old	(Multiple	cask)	–	Tomintoul	14	Years	Old
                               beloved and unfashionable Millwall F.C. Murray would go on        11-15	Years	Old	(Single	cask)	–	Isle	of	Arran	Sherry	353
                               to pursue a career in journalism, spending over 13 years on       16-21	Years	Old	(Multiple	cask)	–	Glen	Grant	1992*
                               Fleet Street working on British tabloid papers The Sunday         16-21	Years	Old	(Single	cask)	–	Glendronach	1992	Cask	401
                                                                                                 22-27	Years	Old	(Multiple	cask)	–	Brora	25	Years	Old	7th*
                                                                                                 22-27	Years	Old	(Single	cask)	–	Cadenhead’s	Benriach	23YO
                                                                                                 28-34	Years	Old	(Multiple	cask)	–	Highland	Park	30	Years	Old
                                                                                                 28-34	Years	Old	(Single	cask)	–	Douglas	Laing	Glencadem	32YO
                                                                                                 35-40	Years	Old	(Multiple	cask)	–	Glenglassaugh	40	Years	Old
                                                                                                 35-40	Years	Old	(Single	cask)	–	Whisky	fair	Glen	Grant	36	YO
                                                                                                 41	Years	and	Over	(Multiple	cask)	–	Glenfiddich	50	Years	Old
                                                                                                 41	Years	and	Over	(Single	cask)	–	Glenfarclas	1962	release	III


                                                                                               People and Daily Star. He left in 1992 to write about whisky
                                                                                               full-time, having already amassed considerable notes on
                                                                                               whiskies from distilleries visited whilst on various press
                                                                                               secondments. “I was trying to write about it [whisky] in the
                                                                                               early 80s – but most magazines and newspapers just didn’t
                                                                                               want to know...there was no one else doing it and if anyone
                                                                                               was doing it, it was being done by wine writers. Some of
                                                                                               what they were writing was just a joke, but there was nothing
                                                                                               you could do about it.” Murray claims to have fallen in love
                                                                                               with whisky whilst in the States during 1974 at the age of 16.
                                                                                               He tasted lots of Rye whiskies and bourbons in Maryland,
32   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                            SINGLE MALTS   33
Jim Murray Whisky bible




          have you got a nose
          like Jim Murray?
          next	time	you	have	a	dram	see	how	
          many	of	these	aromas	and	flavours	                                                                              Source:	The	Scotch	Whisky	
          you	can	identify	in	your	single	malt.                                                                     research	Institute’s	flavour	Wheel



          and this first flush was confirmed as a lasting love a year later   be tough work on the nose and palate. Murray attributes
          when he went hitchhiking round Scotland, further educating          the fact that he has never even held a dry cigarette to his
          and feeding his palate and stumbling across the Talisker            mouth, let alone smoked, as one of the major factors behind
          distillery,.                                                        being able to maintain his precious organoleptic abilities.
            In 1994 Murray released his Irish Whisky almanac which            Such is his distaste for cigarettes that he regularly turns
          was the first of a series of publications which would help          down the large amounts of money he is offered to his to
          to secure his place as a leading voice of authority within          put his name against cigarette advertising. With regards
          both the domestic and global whisky trade. 2003 saw the             to technique, he goes on to explain: “If I’m nosing and I
          beginning of what has become an ongoing project in the form         don’t feel that I’m getting what I should get, then I stop....I
          of the Jim Murray Whisky Bible, which documents Murray’s            simply don’t nose...but when my nose is on form, which is
          tasting notes for every single whisky he is able to acquire         most days, I can go on for some considerable time. It tires
          throughout the year. Murray’s scoring system works on a             you out after several hours, but by that time, you’ve got a
          100 point structure, focusing on four different areas of nose,      lot of work done.” However he does say that the addition
          taste, finish and balance. His approach focuses primarily on        of caramel to whiskies can reduce the number of samples
          what is wrong with the whisky he’s tasting, stripping points        that he can get through in a day, as can sulphur. On a good
          away as he goes along. He looks at the age, what he would           run he can get through 30-40 whiskies and although any
          expect from it and most importantly balance. He will also           serious professional will need to spit in order to get their
          look at the distillery and take into consideration how certain      work done, he does admit that at the end of the day, he
          whiskies from certain distilleries have performed over the          may succumb to having a nip of something: “Sometimes you
          years and will mark them up or down according their overall         do get one [whisky] which is sent down from the heavens
          consistency of quality.                                             and is plonked in front of you and there’s rays of sunlight
            It is estimated that Murray tastes anything between two           coming from it and you think, ok, I’ve spat it out once, but
          and half to three thousand whiskies a year, which can               I’m damned if I’m going to spit it out again.”
34   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                        SINGLE MALTS   35
richard paterson Q & a




          ThE rICharD
          paTErsoN
          INTErvIEW
          “If	YOu	DrInk	THE	WHISkY	TOO	quICkLY,	HE’LL	SLAP	YOu.	AnD	If	HE	SEES	YOu	
          HOLDInG	A	WHISkY	TASTInG	GLASS	THE	WrOnG	WAY,	HE’LL	kILL	YOu.”




          W
                       ith this warning in mind, Single Malts Magazine           not only to the whisky but to the whole distillery. Now you
                       caught up with Whyte and Mackay’s Master                  have one manager overseeing a few distilleries, but we’re all
                       Blender, Richard Paterson. He’s worked with               in the same boat, we’ve got to be competitive. For the loss
                       the company since 1970 and is now considered              of individuality, the quality of output has never been better,
          the one of the foremost voices in the world of whisky.                 compared to when I started out, we’re streets ahead
                                                                                 in terms of quality. I judge at the International Wine and
          SM: Is there any specific way a novice can train to be a better        Spirit Competition in London and without any compromise
          noser and taster or is it a natural skill only a few posses?           in our standards we now give considerably more silver and
          RP: Becoming a Master Blender is a life’s work. You’ve got to          gold medals.
          have 100% commitment and 120% passion for what you’re
          doing. Training takes many many years. You’ve got to be nosing         We’re putting spirit into cask now for a global population
          samples at every stage of production whether it be malted barley       to drink in 10 to 12 years. How do you gauge what future
          or grain whiskies. Only by knowing every individual facet can          demand will be and what’s the general mood in the
          you really learn how to harmonise it all together. You’ve got to       whisky industry?
          know the wood as well as well as you know the spirit and then          We’re quietly confident just now and most distilleries are
          pair the quality of the two together. Through time you begin           operating at a good level. A lot rests on the BRIC countries
          to develop an understanding of what works and what doesn’t;            [Brazil, Russia, India and China]. We’re always trying to
          for The Dalmore we’ve used 30 different types of sherry casks          second guess what will happen decades down the line but
          before settling on Matusalem as the absolute finest fit to our         all the indicators point to these countries as having a big
          spirit, that takes time and experience.                                say in the future condition of the whisky industry. With the
                                                                                 expansion of the middle classes and the more expansive
          So it’s about finding the perfect partner for each                     tastes that go with that we’d expect to see a decent export
          individual spirit?                                                     shift in their direction. The biggest concern for distilleries
          Each of our distilleries produces a different spirit [Whyte and        just now is about casks and are there going to be enough. If
          Mackay oversee The Dalmore, Isle of Jura and Fettercairn]. My          production keeps increasing we’ll need more casks and more
          job is to dress the spirit, to bring out the best qualities that are   warehouse space – neither are cheap and decent sherry casks
          already in there. I’m clothing it like you’d clothe a woman; only      are becoming harder to come by in light of fewer people
          the best casks will bring out the best qualities. Where you can        drinking it.
          make a woman beautiful by dressing her in the right clothes,
          you can overdo it, like if you dress her in a mink coat. It’s          What tip would you give to help drinkers bring out and
          about balance. There’s never a guarantee it’ll work out how you        appreciate flavours in your whiskies?
          expected and you’ve got to be prepared to wait. The Mackenzie          Whisky loves to be drunk in context. Dark chocolate, cigars
          [a recent premium release from The Dalmore] was in port casks          and coffee all release different nuances of a complex whisky.
          for seven years, that’s a long time, but it worked.                    Whisky and cigar pairing is a real art and one that enhances
                                                                                 the enjoyment of both. We’ve just released The Dalmore King
          How do malts differ when there is a personnel change at                Alexander III which is a marriage of six differently aged malts
          the distillery – is there as much individual input to the              all hailing from uniquely seasoned casks [French wine, Port,
          production process as when you started in the industry?                Sherry, Madeira, Marsala and bourbon barrels from Kentucky].
          We’re definitely going through a period of rationalisation             Everyone who drinks it loves it and appreciates its quality, but
          just now and that has meant that some of the characters                not many can pick out all the brilliant aromas from its varied
          associated with distilleries aren’t there any more. That’s a real      maturation. When you start pairing it with chocolates and
          shame because each manager brought their own character                 cigars, it becomes much easier.
36   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                   SINGLE MALTS   37
Dalmore selene 58 year old launch


                                                                                                                                            DalMorE’s
                                                                                                                                            CurrENT raNGE




          The launch of
                                                                                                                                            the dalMore 12-year-old
                                                                                                                                            Bottled	after	12	years	instead	of	the	
                                                                                                                                            industry’s	usual	10,	the	12	is	Dalmore’s	
                                                                                                                                            most	youthful	product.	This	whisky	is	
                                                                                                                                            matured	in	50	per	cent	American	white	




          ThE 58 yo
                                                                                                                                            oak	and	50	per	cent	Oloroso	Sherry	casks	
                                                                                                                                            in	order	to	develop	its	unique	character.	Its	
                                                                                                                                            colour	is	a	deep	gold	mahogany,	while	its	
                                                                                                                                            aroma	is	firm,	positive	and	elegant	-	citrus	




          sElENE
                                                                                                                                            fruits	and	crushed	almond,	with	a	subtle	
                                                                                                                                            hint	of	marzipan	and	chocolate.	Its	taste	on	
                                                                                                                                            the	palate	is	intense,	but	the	warmth	of	the	
                                                                                                                                            tongue	helps	release	the	special	attributes	
                                                                                                                                            of	citrus,	sherry	and	exotic	spices.	The	long,	
                                                                                                                                            lingering	aftertaste	is	the	key	to	this	spirit.




          T
                                                                                                                                            the dalMore 15-year-old
                     he Dalmore recently       a certificate of authenticity, which                                                         The	Dalmore	15YO	is	the	distillery’s	flagship	
                     released their highly     has been signed by The Dalmore’s                                                             expression,	which	delivers	the	perfect	
                     anticipated Selene, a     Master Distiller and currently retails                                                       balance	between	spirit,	wood	and	maturity.	
                     striking 58-year-old      at US$18,000.                                                                                Crafted	from	wood	infused	with	three	rare	
          vintage, which has been drawn           According to Paterson, the aroma                                                          sherries	from	Gonzalez-Byass,	Apostoles,	
          from two antique casks numbered      of Selene combines lime, mandarin                                                            Amoroso	and	Matusalem,	this	whisky	is	
          1781 and 1782. Both of these casks   and grapefruit, with hints of                                                                rich,	deep	and	golden	mahogany	in	colour.	
          were filled on 7th June 1951 and     bergamot laced with thick plumy                                                              Its	aroma	is	intense	and	firm,	while	its	taste	
          were left to age in the darkness     treacle, aged Matusalem sherry,                                                              is	described	as	having	a	good	attack	on	the	
          of The Dalmore’s                                      ginger and spice.                                                           mouth,	in	an	elegant	way.	
          warehouse until                                       Hold the spirit on the
          Richard Paterson,       “The aroma                    tongue and it tastes      “a combination of sublime                         the dalMore 18-year-old
          Master Distiller from
                                    of selene                   like tangy thick cut         casks that have been                           In	2009,	The	Dalmore	launched	a	new	
                                                                                                                                            18-year-old	expression	for	the	first	time	in	
                                                                                             matured to perfection
          Whyte and Mackay                                      marmalade, roasted
          and director of           combines                    coffee beans, spiced                                                        its	history.	This	whisky	was	first	matured	
          The Scotch Whisky           lime,                     ground cinnamon            make up The Dalmore’s                            in	American	white	oak,	and	then	moved	to	
          Experience, decided
          that it was time
                                 mandarin and                   and chocolate cake.
                                                                This is complemented
                                                                                           king alexander, a whisky                         Matusalem	sherry	butts	for	its	final	years	
                                                                                                                                            of	maturation.	It	has	been	described	as	a	
          to combine their         grapefruit,                  by marinated plums,         that has been crafted n                         ‘galaxy	of	handmade	chocolates’	and	as	
          aromas, finishes and     with hints                   apricots and mangos
                                                                                            commemoration of the                            having	tasted	of	vanilla,	Columbian	coffee,	
          flavours.
                                  of bergamot                   soaked in Port wine
                                                                                          Mackenzie Clan founder’s
                                                                                                                                            truffles	and	rosemary,	with	subtle	hints	of	
                                                                                                                                            parma	violets	and	jasmine.
                                   laced with
             Named after the                                    and dark muscovado
          Titan goddess of the                                  sugar.                     heroic act in saving king
                                  thick plumy
                                                                                            alexander III in 1263.”
          moon, only thirty                                        The Dalmore                                                              gran reServa
          decanters of the       treacle, aged                  distillery was built in                                                     The	Dalmore’s	Gran	reserva	was	matured	
          Selene have been
          produced. Made
                                   Matusalem                    1839 by Alexander
                                                                Matheson in Alness,
                                                                                                                                            and	married	in	60	per	cent	Sherry	Wood	
                                                                                                                                            and	40	per	cent	American	White	Oak,	and	
          out of the finest      sherry, ginger                 Scotland and is           winning collection, is matured in wooden casks,   is	typically	crafted	from	casks	ranging	in	
          Portuguese mouth        and spice.”                   currently owned and       which contributes to the flavour of each malt,    age	from	10	to	15	years.	It	is	deep,	golden	
          blown crystal, each                                   operated by Whyte         along with the climate and years. Aimed at the    mahogany	in	colour	and	has	a	strong,	malty	
          decanter has been                                     and Mackay Ltd. The       mainstream and high-class markets, ‘The 50’ is    flavour	that	tantalises	the	tongue.
          crafted and enhanced with patient    Dalmore follows a very distinctive         the oldest and most expensive whisky sold by
          hand crafting, showing the care      distillation process, which means          The Dalmore, of which only 242 were produced.     king alexander
          and dedication that has gone into    no two batches are ever exactly the        In 2005, a bottle of 62-year-old Dalmore was      A	combination	of	sublime	casks	that	have	
          its creation. These decanters are    same, meaning that each measure of         sold for a record breaking £32,000. Only 12       been	matured	to	perfection	make	up	The	
          then encased in solid steel boxes,   its product is unique.                     bottles were produced of the blend, which was     Dalmore’s	king	Alexander,	a	whisky	that	
          inlaid with sensuous leather. The       Dalmore Single Highland Malt            a mix of five casks: 1868, 1878, 1922, 1926 and   has	been	crafted	in	commemoration	of	
          Selene package is presented with     Whiskey, the distillery’s award-           1939.                                             the	Mackenzie	Clan	founder’s	heroic	act	in	
                                                                                                                                            saving	king	Alexander	III	in	1263.


38   SINGLE MALTS                                                                                                                                                                    SINGLE MALTS   39
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending
Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending

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Single Malts Issue 3 Art of Blending

  • 1. Single malts Issue 3 For isk Enthusiasts the art oF blenDing with richard Patterson Dubai First Whisky Festival 2010 in association with mmi the Dalmore 58 years, selene with fraser jones highland heros with jonathan castle
  • 2. Exclusively available in all MMI, Spinney’s & OUA retail shops
  • 3. PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY 2 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 3
  • 4. “At Highland Park we make whisky the traditional way: hand-turning the malt; cutting peat by hand from our own moor; maturing the spirit in our custom-made sherry butts; nurturing it in Orkney’s gentle maritime climate; marrying the whisky in cask to allow it to settle. Our intention is to make the best whisky possible. That can’t be done by cutting corners in the name of efficiency. This philosophy has earned us many plaudits, including Distiller of the Year 2007 *. A lifetime in the making, H I G H L A N D PA R K 4 0 Y E A R O L D is the flagship expression of the most respected single malt whisky in the world.” Russell Anderson, Distillery Manager www.highlandpark.co.uk * San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2007 4 SINGLE MALTS 5 Exclusively available in all MMI, Spinney’s & OUA retail shops SINGLE MALTS
  • 5. Editor’s Toast Editor’s ToasT W elcome to the third edition of Single Malt Magazine. We’ve been in whisky overdrive since last time out with events in both Dubai and Abu Dhabi. The Whisky Festival at Taste Dubai was a big hit with both experienced tipplers and novices alike - all our master classes packed out. In the capital we hooked up with some single malt fiends for their ‘Guessamalt’ tasting where a great evening was had by all. We’ve gone behind the scenes of The Dalmore’s latest super premium launch, the Selene, and caught up with its creator, Master Blender Richard Paterson, for a quick Q + A. Furthermore, All things Highland are investigated in our main feature including an in depth look at Glenmorangie and the incredible ‘16 Men of Tain’. Dubai Slainte Mhath! Whisky John Gillespie Festival 2010 were forced to lance of supply vs demand they portfolio that pick off those producers from their whiskies. offered the least character to blended malts are a It must be remembered that single now, over relatively new phenomena and even distilleries 90% of Scotch is blended. Lowland were hit particularly hard as their delicate, subtle value to the aromas were considered of little consumers blended market. Only recently have these lost really appreciated what it is that where distilleries had to offer. Likewise, distilling companies had more than one distillery making similar styled malts, difficult decisions rare stocks had to be made. What’s left of these – when its should now be consumed with care gone, its gone! Next Issue • The Lost Lowlands – Single Malt investigates the once thriving Lowlands distilleries • Small in size, not in character - the increasing popularity of farm distilleries • Dram good curry – spicy up your Indian cooking with a shot of the good stuff • Sherry? Yes please. What does granny”s favourite tipple do for your malt? 6 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 7
  • 6. Contents 38 The Dalmore Selene 58YO Launch 52 hotspots Edinburgh Contents 10 Dubai Whisky Festival 2010 14 What’s New 18 Top 10 20 Inside Highlands 30 Guessamalt, Abu Dhabi 32 Jim Murray Whisky Bible 36 Richard Paterson Q&A 38 Dalmore Selene 58 year old Launch 40 What makes a malt 42 Whisky & Cigar Pairings 44 Highland Heroes with Glenmorangie 48 Nose of the month 52 Hotspots Edinburgh 56 Edinburgh Fringe Festival 60 Scottish Style “The Kilt” 62 20 Events 64 Ask the Expert, with Fraser Jones Highlands 8 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 9 PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY
  • 7. Dubai Whisky Festival 2010 r’s Taste of Dubai Festival MMI raised the bar at this yea with the ever popular Bev erage Theatre suppor ted for whisky experience and the the first time by a separate s Lounge’. beautifully presented ‘Le Clo out with The Single Mal t tasting sessions were packed r the course of the four day hundreds of par ticipants ove a special chocolate and festival. Gatherings included junction with Chivas and whisky pairing hosted in con to French gourmands, Valr hona. Experts were on hand through the ultra-rare guide a lucky few par ticipants le other sessions included “Closed Distillery” range whi Scotland’s diverse malt Japanese whiskies, a tour of rse St.Patricks day saw a styles and Islay icons. Of cou h! celebration of all whiskies Iris attraction wowing Coo per Dan Meikleman was a star d’s crowds with his dec ades of experience in Scotlan rt of a tale or two, the expert greatest industr y. Never sho okers while showing off the barrel maker entertained onlo timeless craft of the cooper.
  • 8.
  • 9. WhaT’s NEW? MOrE C , MOrE LOCATIOnS. HOICE, MOrE vALuE ITH MMI… EErfuL W rEASOnS TO BE CH ly working to br ing you more GlENFIDDICh a 40-yEar olD t MM I, we’re constant r value all the tim e. ce and even bette choice, convenien th e opening of ou r ed to announce So we’re delight d in Dubai Festi val CollECTIblE rElEasED nveniently locate new flagship store co of our othe r 10 outlets w store, or any m the largest wi ne City. Visit our ne ck up a bottle fro e Single-malt Scotch distillery Glenfiddich across the city, and pi – there’s alw ays great in-stor olio in the gulf course announced the launch of a limited edition and spirit portf e for less. Plus of ring you get mor ed in this issue 40 Year Old expression. It is the 6th set of promotions ensu gle malts featur fabulous sin Glenfiddich 40 Year Old, and only 600 will be yo u’ll find all the Magazine. presented on the world market at a price of of your Whisky $2,600 per bottle. DubaI lauNChEs ThE MaCallaN pErFECT sErvE Beverage purists argue that ice should never be introduced to a quality scotch whisky. Such thinking rests on the theory that when holding a glass, your body heat will melt the ice, resulting in a diluted spirit and sub-par drinking experience. In order to make a scotch cold without diluting it, Scottish whisky purveyors The Macallan created a clever ice ball maker. The machine creates a ball of ice precisely sized to fit into an average tumbler. The spherical nature slows the melting process making it less susceptible to hand warmth, preserving the liquor while keeping it refreshingly cool. Exclusively available at Address Hotels, Dubai, Emirates Palace Abu Dhabi and Chedi in Oman 14 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 15
  • 10. What’s New 100-yEar-olD WhyTE & MaCkay uNvEIls ThE alMorE MaCkENzIE WhIsky FouND uNDEr ErNEsT shaCklEToN’s huT lIMITED EDITIoN Scotch whisky distiller Whyte & Mackay last night That’s the spirit! Cases of news has emerged that the crates unveiled The Dalmore Mackenzie limited edition, the Mackinlay’s ‘Rare Old’ scotch of whisky long suspected to have latest line extension of its leading Highland single whisky have been recovered been entombed by ice outside Sir malt, in the spectacular setting of Scotland’s National from the ice outside Shackleton’s Ernest Shackleton’s Antarctic hut Gallery in Edinburgh. Antarctic hut. What will it taste have finally been recovered. Only 3,000 limited edition bottles of the edition are like? The spirits, supplied by the being released, of which 600 will be available in Cases of Mackinlay’s whisky Scottish distillers Whyte and travel retail, principally through specialist whisky found intact under the hut Mackay, were excavated from outlets such as World of Whiskies. The retail price is used by the British Antarctic underneath Shackleton’s Antarctic around £100. Expedition of 1907-1909 (The hut by the New Zealand Antarctic Whyte & Mackay said the launch “marks a new era SS Nimrod expedition), led by Heritage Trust, who are involved in the distillery’s long affiliation with The Mackenzie Sir Ernest Shackleton. Cape in restoration work on the Cape Clan”. The Dalmore Mackenzie launch was inspired Royds, McMurdo side, Antarctica. Royds building, as well as the by the act of courage from an ancestor of Clan Photograph: New Zealand Cape Evans hut later used by Mackenzie when he saved King Alexander III of Antarctic Heritage Trust Captain Robert Scott as his Scotland in 1263 from being gored by a stag, a scene After some hype and anticipation expedition base that is depicted in a famous painting by Benjamin West that hangs in the National Gallery – next to which guests enjoyed dinner last night. EDrINGToN lauNCh park40 hIGhlaND as a 5Cl MINIaTurE IT Is WITh GrEaT plEasurE ThaT WE INTroDuCE our Back in April 2008, launched The 40 Year Old has been NEW MasTEr DIsTIllEr oF Highland Park 40 Year Old, at the largely matured in refill casks, ThE GlENlIvET, time the oldest whisky ever bottled by the distillery. The response was that is to say casks that have previously been used to mature alan Winchester terrific and the critics adored it; whisky; every time a cask is He brings a wealth of technical expertise, experience and love for Highland Park 40 Year Old was used, its ability to impart The Glenlivet to this crucial role. He describes his appointment named World’s Best New Release an influence on the spirit is as, “A huge honour. My main job will be to maintain the tradition at the World Whisky Awards and diminished. When laying down a started by George Smith – a tradition of the highest quality, that Jim Murray described it as “sheer whisky for extended maturation, the industry looks to as a reference point. no other distillery poetry” in his Whisky Bible 2010. we don’t want the cask to combines a unique, pioneering role in the Scotch industry with Now delighted to announce the dominate the spirit; 40 years allows such an enduring reputation for quality release of Highland Park 40 Year time for the perfect balance to Old as a 5cl miniature. be achieved. 16 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 17
  • 11. Top 10 Where to Find a GooD DraM sCoTlaND’s Top 10 fEATurInG OvEr 20 SInGLE MALTS, InCLuDInG 8 Of TOP 10 In THE WOrLD, AnD A furTHEr 20 olDEsT DIsTIllErIEs MOrE BrAnDS AvAILABLE On rEquEST, THErE’S SOMETHInG fOr EvErYOnE 1 Balblair ........................................................................................1790 2 Blair Athol ...................................................................................1798 Dubai Flagship retail store 3 Bowmore .....................................................................................1779 Le Clos ......................................Tel: 04 220 3583 4 Glenburgie ..................................................................................1810 Al Wasl ....................................Tel: 04 232 5522 5 Glen Garioch ...............................................................................1797 Mall of Emirates .......................Tel: 04 341 0371 6 Glenturret ....................................................................................1775 Ibn Battuta ..............................Tel: 04 368 5626 7 Oban............................................................................................1794 Trade Centre ...........................Tel: 04 352 3091 8 Strathisla......................................................................................1786 Shiekh Zayed Road ..................Tel: 04 321 1223 9 Tobermory...................................................................................1798 10 Highland Park .............................................................................1798 sCoTlaND’s Top 10 NEWEsT DIsTIllErIEs 1 Ailsa Bay .....................................................................................2007 2 Roseisle .......................................................................................2009 3 Abhainn Dearg ............................................................................2008 Dubai Festival City ...................Tel: 04 232 5522 4 Daftmill .......................................................................................2005 Opening Hours for all stores 5 Speyside ......................................................................................1976 11:00am-9pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays 6 Kininvie .......................................................................................1990 7 Kilchoman ...................................................................................2005 spinney’s Flagship retail stores 8 Glengyle ......................................................................................2004 Spinneys Muroor .....................Tel: 02 641 9366 9 Arran ...........................................................................................1993 Spinneys Khalidiya .................Tel: 02 681 2356 10 Allt-a-Bhainne .............................................................................1975 Spinneys Al Ain .......................Tel: 03 763 6367 Opening Hours for all stores 10:00am-1pm & 4pm – 8.30pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays oman Flagship retail stores OUA Madinat Qaboos .................Tel: 2460 3892 SCS Azaiba...................................Tel: 2449 5157 OUA Ruwi ..................................Tel: 2470 4031 Opening Hours for all stores 9am-1pm & 5pm-9pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays Sign up to the Single Malt Society and find out about whiSky eventS and excluSive offerS throughout the uae. for More inforMation log on to our webSite: www.MMidubai.coM 18 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 19
  • 12. Inside highlands The High roaD frOM nOrTHErn JOHn O’GrOATS TO HELEnSBurGH In THE SOuTH, THE HIGHLAnDS EnCOMPASS SCOTLAnD’S MOST DIvErSE SCEnErY, AnD MOST vArIED WHISkIES a sk almost anyone to picture Scotland and it is a land Geographically, The Highlands as a region is defined as of heatherclad mountains that they will envision. everything north of the Highland Boundary Fault, a line that The Highlands define the very essence of Scotland: runs roughly diagonal across the country from Stonehaven remote, spectacular, hauntingly beautiful, hard to in the North East, through Loch Lomond and out across the reach and even harder to leave. Firth of Clyde, crossing the northern tips of both Arran and Hardly surprising, then, that this vast and complex region Mull in the South West. Thus included are most of Scotland’s is also home to an unparalleled range and diversity of single mountains, including the highest, Ben Nevis, and most of her malts, from the peaty blockbusters of the west, to sweetly islands, including Jura, Skye and the Orkneys. The whisky subtle nectars from the North and East. heartland of Speyside also falls within this region, but it is 20 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 21
  • 13. Inside highlands USA. Glenturret, at Crieff, is one of the claimants to being the oldest distillery, although it was dismantled in the 1920s and is much changed. Glenturret is a major tourist attraction with more visitors than any other distillery in Scotland. Finally, Tullibardine (mothballed in 1995) is close to Gleneagles, on the site of the first public brewery in Scotland and uses the same source of water. Nearby Deanston, in the village of Doune, occupies a converted cotton-mill, built in 1785 by Richard Arkwright, the inventor over sixty miles from Grantown-on- of the ‘Spinning jenny’. Spey. The original name of the distillery These South Highlands malts are was ‘Strathspey’. Its style certainly leans lighter-bodied and sweeter that their towards Speyside in character. cousins to the east, but not as sweet Further down the A9 you’ll find Blair as Speysides. Like Speysides, they are Athol Distillery near the town of the fragrant - blossom, violets, elderflowers, same name, and Edradour Distillery heather, mint, spice, and pear notes are all just down the road in Pitlochry. Blair found in the nose - but they tend to have Athol - founded in the 1790s and one of a dry finish like other Highland malts, Scotland’s oldest - and was substantially and unlike Speysides. rebuilt in 1949. Edradour is the smallest As the largest recognised region in distillery in Scotland, run by only two Scottish whisky nomenclature, it is no people and producing only 12 barrels a surprise that its distilleries have a number week. Though tiny, the whisky produced of claims to fame – the oldest, most is clean, fresh, attractive and justly northerly, the highest, the world’s best popular. The floral, minty, sweet-to-start / selling, the smallest and so on. In fact, dry-to-finish flavour of these whiskies are they are a fascinating reflection of the typical of the region. sheer beauty, scale and diversity of the South again is Aberfeldy Distillery on region they occupy and the whiskies the edge of the pretty town of the same originating there capture all of that name. It was built by Dewar’s in 1898, diversity in their range of flavours and counted as a subset of the Highlands the points of the compass, giving us wood maturation, though the sherry- whiskies, generally malty, slightly and is still the ‘heart malt’ of their blend - nuances. In many ways, ‘Highland’ is the and accorded a separate classification Northern, Eastern, Western and Southern finishing technique developed in the new sweet, smooth, smoky and with the most popular Scotch in the proudest name a whisky can bear. of its own, as is the south western island Highlands. In reality, there is a fifth part Glenmorangie range suits them well. a surprisingly dry finish. South of of Islay. which is the Islands, and though these are Over in the West Highlands it’s a Aberdeen you’ll find Royal Lochnagar As a result, distilleries given the lumped with the Highlands for political different story, partly due to geography, and Glencadam - these tend to be distinction of calling their output and administrative reasons, as a group the partly climate. There are five distilleries richer, more toffee-like, with citrus ‘Highland’ single malt are as disparate as distilleries have their own character and recognized officially as West Highlands, notes, but still a whiff of smoke the land they inhabit – distilleries with identity. Island and Islay distillers were three on islands and two on the mainland. and the dry finish. Further south is their toes in the Atlantic and the North featured in Single Malt Issue two. The island distilleries are Jura (Isle of Fettercairn in the rich red farmland sea, in rolling arable pastures and high The Northern Highlands is an area Jura), Ledaig/Tobermory (Isle of Mull) of the Meams, an underestimated mountain passes, the most northerly of low-lying arable countryside and its and Talisker (Isle of Skye). The mainland malt with a fruity/fudge-like nose Scotch Whisky distillery (Highland distilleries almost all enjoy a coastal distilleries are Oban (in Oban itself, just and a spicy finish. Glencadam is the Park), and almost the most southerly setting. The exception is Clynelish, which off the high street) and Ben Nevis in last remaining distillery at Brechin (Glengoyne). In fact, Glengoyne distillery sits slightly inland at the foot of the hills the town of Fort William. If they share and produces an unusual, creamy, sits astride the fault, and though the behind Brora, at the heart of what used to a characteristic it is a typical smoky/ fruity malt strongly reminiscent of whisky is matured on the Lowland side, be a model Highland estate. These North pepperiness, though nothing like as tangerines. it is actually produced in the Highlands. Highland malts tend to be light bodied, strong as Islay malts and very much Further south, you encounter what Loch Lomond distillery is similarly delicate whiskies with complex aromas depending upon age. used to be known as the ‘Perthshire schizophrenic, though it draws its water and a dryish finish - sometimes spicy, Over in the East Highlands are the Whiskies’. Most are found along the from the Highlands side of the fault and sometimes with a trace of salt. Some malts from distilleries north of the city valleys of the Tay and its tributaries, so bestows the Highland name on are slightly peaty (Clynelish, Balblair); of Aberdeen – Macduff, home to the the Tummel and the Earn. The most its whiskies. in others the smoke is more prominent Glen Deveron malt, Knockdhu, Ardmore, northerly of these is Dalwhinnie, In whisky terms, the region is divided (Pulteney, Teaninich, Dalmore). Northern Glendronach and Glengarrioch. They which qualifies as a Speyside, although officially into four parts, named after malts don’t usually undergo much sherry- tend to produce more medium-bodied it is at the very head of the river, 22 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 23
  • 14. Inside highlands a-z abErFElDy The Aberfeldy Distillery was established in 1898 by the sons of John Dewar, one expression of a ‘Perthshire Malt’. of the first men to produce blended whisky and who’s name to this day EDraDour crowns one of the largest whisky The smallest distillery in Scotland, companies in the world. Still a working Edradour is the last surviving farm distillery, it is home to the Dewar’s distillery in Perthshire. Established in World of Whisky visitor centre and open 1825, it is virtually unchanged and still for tours. uses the original equipment installed when it was started. Just three men balblaIr produce a total of 12 barrels of whisky Founded in 1790, Balblair Distillery a week of a very highly regarded is the second oldest working whisky Highland malt. distillery in Scotland. Situated at Edderton, in one of the most beautiful GlENCaDaM parts of the country, where the Ross- Established by George Cooper near shire burns flow down Struie Hill to the the Royal Burgh of Brechin in 1825, rich farmlands below and onwards to Glencadam is a little-known but the shores of the Dornoch Firth. productive Eastern Highland distillery. The air in Edderton is considered to Almost all of the production goes into be the purest in Scotland, and it is said Ballantine’s blends. that this contributes to Balblair’s mooth, light, delicate and refreshing taste. GlENGarIoCh Possibly Scotland’s oldest distillery, bEN NEvIs Glengarrioch was officially established The Ben Nevis Distillery is one of the in 1797 in the Garrioch valley, oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland. traditionally the finest barley growing It was established in 1825 by Long John area in Scotland. It is a small distillery McDonald, a 6ft 4in descendant of a and not normally open to visitors, but ruler of the western Scottish kingdom produces one of the most highly rated of Argyll. In 1989 the distillery was sold Highland malts. by Whitbread to Mitsui, partner of the Japanese whiskymakers Nikka, and the GlENGoyNE focus today is on quality, not volume. Established in 1833 just 12 miles north A Highland of Glasgow, Glengoyne is the most blaIr aThol southerly of the ‘Highland’ distilleries, Blair Athol distillery was founded in and actually sits astride the Highland 1798, but closed again soon after. It Boundary Fault. Whilst much of its remained closed until 1825, when it was production used to go for blending, reopened by John Robertson and a long an increasing proportion is now being GazETTEEr line of different owners then followed enjoyed as a single malt. throughout the years. Only 5% of production is sold as single malt - Blair GlENMoraNGIE Athol is a main contributor to the Bell’s Established in 1843 at Tain, overlooking whisky blend. the Dornoch Firth, the distillery actually THE A – Z Of EvErY HIGHLAnD DISTILLErY CurrEnTLY began production using a pair of very brora WOrkInG (AnD OnE THAT’S nOT) tall, second-hand gin stills. The shape of Not currently working, Brora has a those original stills played a significant fascinating history. Originally called role in the quality and refinement of the Clynelish, it was established in 1819. Dalmore 62 year old is currently the through the Highlands. whisky and to this day Glenmorangie Then the new (and current) Clynelish ClyNElIsh DalMorE world’s most expensive whisky. operates the tallest stills in Scotland. distillery was built over the road and The ‘new’ Clynelish distillery went into Dalmore Distillery was established in DEaNsToN the old one closed down in 1969. production in 1968, replacing the old 1839 by Alexander Matheson, and sits DalWhINNIE A relatively recent introduction, the GlEN orD However, it was re-opened in 1975 and one which had originally been part of on the shores of the Cromarty Firth Originally named the Strathspey Distillery, Deanston Distillery was built in 1965 The last remaining distillery on the produced the Brora single malt before a ‘model’ Highland estate. The current across the water from the Black Isle. It the current Dalwhinnie sits at the head of within the shell of a much older Black Isle, an area noted for the quality closing in 1983. Brora is a much peatier output is a highly regarded single malt draws its water from the Alness river. the river Spey in the village of the same cotton mill which dates back to 1785. of its barley, Glen Ord’s production is whisky than the new Clynelish, and was much appreciated by blenders, and The “twelve pointer stag” which adorns name high in the Cairngorm mountains. Produced from an unpeated malt, mostly used for blending but a limited known as the ‘Lagavulin of the North’. forms the backbone of the Johnnie every bottle of Dalmore was introduced Its traditional pagoda roofs are a famous Deanston whisky is delightfully easy to quantity can now be found bottled as a Intriguingly, the stills are still there… Walker Gold Label blend. from the Mackenzie clan crest, and sight from the nearby A9 main route drink, and regarded as the perfect single malt. 24 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 25
  • 15. Inside highlands a-z GlENTurrET Officially founded in 1775, making it the oldest recognised distillery in Scotland, though illicit distilling took place in the same location for many years earlier. Home of ‘The Famous Grouse Experience’, Glenturret is the most visited distillery in Scotland. loCh loMoND The distillery was converted from a dyeing factory in the mid 1960s and is located very close to Loch Lomond. It actually sits on the Highland/Lowland line but as its water source is above the Highland line its production is considered as being of Highland origin. Loch Lomond can produce a number of different whiskies thanks to the unusual design of its stills. obaN Established in 1794 by the three Stevenson brothers who also founded the town of Oban itself. Though most of its output goes for blending, what little of the typically West Highland malt does escape as a single malt, is very highly regarded by connoisseurs. FETTErCaIrN Possibly the second oldest licensed distillery in Scotland, established in 1824 and extended and rebuilt since. Primarily used for blending, a small amount is now released as a single malt. olD pulTNEy Established in 1826 in Wick, Pulteney Distillery is the most northerly distillery on the Scottish mainland and was originally only accessible by sea. The barley was brought in by sea, the whisky shipped out the same way and many of the distillery workers were also employed as fishermen. One of the finest Highland malts available. royal loChNaGar captain Hugh Munro in 1817, though TullIbarDINE The Lochnagar distillery was established he later he rented it out. Teaninich is The Tullibardine Whisky distillery was by John Begg in 1845 near the village famous because it was the first distillery opened in 1949 on the site of a former of Crathie, close to Balmoral, the Royal to have electricity. In 1971 a new still brewery. It was opened by William family’s Scottish country home. The house, called “Side A” with six stills, Delme-Evans, architect of the Jura and distillery was given its “Royal” status in was built, replacing the old stills that Glenallachie distilleries. In 2003, it was 1848 following a visit from the Queen’s were later mothballed. The first official purchased by a business consortium husband Prince Albert. bottlings of Teaninich single malt only and is now the thriving heart of a retail became available in 1992, and most of complex and tourist attraction. TEaNINICh the malt produced is still used in blends The Teaninich distillery was built by such as Johnnie Walker. 26 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 27
  • 16. Inside highlands in Numbers Highlands in NuMbErs 1% The proportion of Teaninich’s output 1775 The date when Glenturret distillery was 12 in 1263 an ancestor of future Dalmore 3 Men operate Scotland’s smallest 58,000 90 released as a single malt. established, making it Scotland’s oldest. owners Clan Mackenzie, saved King distillery in the stunning Perthshire In an English hotel one night in 2005 Copper pipes stretching 90 meters Alexander III from being gored by a countryside. Edradour produces only a gentleman bought The Dalmore’s condense the evaporated spirit from 12 Total output in barrels per week from 1724 The date when Glen Garioch may have stag while he was hunting. The grateful King granted him the right to bear a 12 pointed or ‘Royal’ stag’s head 12 casks of whisky a week making it a rare pleasure for only the fortunate few… 62 Year old malt for US$ 58,000. He indulgently downed it the same night with five of his friends. the still house at the mainland’s northernmost distillery, Pulteney. Edradour, Scotland’s smallest distillery. been established, under an earlier name. on his coat of arms. The same stag’s head today adorns all bottles from the 26 2 1833 32,000 The price in pounds sterling paid for a 1887 Highland distiller. At a height of over 26 feet, Glenmorangie’s stills are the tallest in The number of distilleries that were at one point named Clyenlish. The The year in which Burnfoot distillery was established by George Connell. It is better known today as Glengoyne. single bottle of Dalmore 62. The year when Alfred Barnard wrote Scotland and are based on the original Scottish Whisky Association later that Teanininh was lit by electricity. former gin stills as installed in 1843. demanded one of the names be changed and Brora distillery was born. 28 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 29
  • 17. Guessamalt, abu Dhabi GuEssaMalT s ingle Malts Magazine has been in the capital this month to join a group of whisky aficionados at their ‘Guessamalt’ tasting dinner. Stanley Hartmann and Sonny Jonathans started the club in 2005 and since then have brought together scores of enthusiastic tipplers to their single malt events. The aim of the evening is somewhat given away by it’s name. Attendees are requested to bring a bottle of their favourite malt, all of which are then listed with tasting notes written by trade professionals. Throughout the course of the meal, this time hosted at the beautiful Mombasa Grille, Souq Qaryat Al Beri, drinkers are then invited to blind sample all the whiskies while trying to decipher which one they are. Prizes are given for most correct matches and also for the one who brought the malt receiving the highest average score of the evening – this time the people’s choice was the Macallan 12 Year Old Fine Oak. A thoroughly enjoyable evening was rounded off with the Macallan 25 Old Fine Oak, served over a perfect sphere of ice courtesy of The Macllan iceball machine. If you’d like to get involved with the next Guessamalt evening, contact Stan on: T: 050 591 3454 E: stanhart@eim.ae 30 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 31
  • 18. Jim Murray Whisky bible Jim Murray I f Jim Murray had followed his chosen path at the age of 13, things might have been very different in the whisky industry today. Murray claims that “at this age I had no intention in being a whisky writer, neither did I aspire to be a journalist, broadcaster, Prime Minister or racing driver. There was only one thing I wanted to be - a professional cricketer. But it was not to be’. A loss for the world of cricket – a gain for the world of whisky as Jim Murray is now arguably one of the industry most influential leading voices. In addition to his writing and broadcasting on the subject, Murray has also worked as a consultant blender for whisky and rum, as well as using his influence to resurrect the closed distillery of Ardbeg. Murray is Jim Murray’s famously fanatical about guarding the integrity and honesty of his writing and has been vocal about how writing for media dependant on advertising can lead to the compromise of these values. To this end he now very selective about the WorlD WhIsky aWarDs 2010 articles he contributes and always insists on retaining full copyright on the writing he submits. Single Malt Scotch As a young man from Merstham, Surrey, Jim Murray’s no Age Statement (Multiple cask) – Ardbeg Supernova interests lay closer to sport, which he followed avidly and no Age Statement (runner up) – Glenmorangie Sonnalta PX which he combined with his passion for journalism. This 10 Years and under (Multiple cask) – Octomore 5 Years Old blending of passions was to lead to the publication of his 10 Years and under (Single cask) – SMWS 77.17 (Glen Ord) first book: Lions of the South (1988), a history of Murray’s 11-15 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Tomintoul 14 Years Old beloved and unfashionable Millwall F.C. Murray would go on 11-15 Years Old (Single cask) – Isle of Arran Sherry 353 to pursue a career in journalism, spending over 13 years on 16-21 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Glen Grant 1992* Fleet Street working on British tabloid papers The Sunday 16-21 Years Old (Single cask) – Glendronach 1992 Cask 401 22-27 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Brora 25 Years Old 7th* 22-27 Years Old (Single cask) – Cadenhead’s Benriach 23YO 28-34 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Highland Park 30 Years Old 28-34 Years Old (Single cask) – Douglas Laing Glencadem 32YO 35-40 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Glenglassaugh 40 Years Old 35-40 Years Old (Single cask) – Whisky fair Glen Grant 36 YO 41 Years and Over (Multiple cask) – Glenfiddich 50 Years Old 41 Years and Over (Single cask) – Glenfarclas 1962 release III People and Daily Star. He left in 1992 to write about whisky full-time, having already amassed considerable notes on whiskies from distilleries visited whilst on various press secondments. “I was trying to write about it [whisky] in the early 80s – but most magazines and newspapers just didn’t want to know...there was no one else doing it and if anyone was doing it, it was being done by wine writers. Some of what they were writing was just a joke, but there was nothing you could do about it.” Murray claims to have fallen in love with whisky whilst in the States during 1974 at the age of 16. He tasted lots of Rye whiskies and bourbons in Maryland, 32 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 33
  • 19. Jim Murray Whisky bible have you got a nose like Jim Murray? next time you have a dram see how many of these aromas and flavours Source: The Scotch Whisky you can identify in your single malt. research Institute’s flavour Wheel and this first flush was confirmed as a lasting love a year later be tough work on the nose and palate. Murray attributes when he went hitchhiking round Scotland, further educating the fact that he has never even held a dry cigarette to his and feeding his palate and stumbling across the Talisker mouth, let alone smoked, as one of the major factors behind distillery,. being able to maintain his precious organoleptic abilities. In 1994 Murray released his Irish Whisky almanac which Such is his distaste for cigarettes that he regularly turns was the first of a series of publications which would help down the large amounts of money he is offered to his to to secure his place as a leading voice of authority within put his name against cigarette advertising. With regards both the domestic and global whisky trade. 2003 saw the to technique, he goes on to explain: “If I’m nosing and I beginning of what has become an ongoing project in the form don’t feel that I’m getting what I should get, then I stop....I of the Jim Murray Whisky Bible, which documents Murray’s simply don’t nose...but when my nose is on form, which is tasting notes for every single whisky he is able to acquire most days, I can go on for some considerable time. It tires throughout the year. Murray’s scoring system works on a you out after several hours, but by that time, you’ve got a 100 point structure, focusing on four different areas of nose, lot of work done.” However he does say that the addition taste, finish and balance. His approach focuses primarily on of caramel to whiskies can reduce the number of samples what is wrong with the whisky he’s tasting, stripping points that he can get through in a day, as can sulphur. On a good away as he goes along. He looks at the age, what he would run he can get through 30-40 whiskies and although any expect from it and most importantly balance. He will also serious professional will need to spit in order to get their look at the distillery and take into consideration how certain work done, he does admit that at the end of the day, he whiskies from certain distilleries have performed over the may succumb to having a nip of something: “Sometimes you years and will mark them up or down according their overall do get one [whisky] which is sent down from the heavens consistency of quality. and is plonked in front of you and there’s rays of sunlight It is estimated that Murray tastes anything between two coming from it and you think, ok, I’ve spat it out once, but and half to three thousand whiskies a year, which can I’m damned if I’m going to spit it out again.” 34 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 35
  • 20. richard paterson Q & a ThE rICharD paTErsoN INTErvIEW “If YOu DrInk THE WHISkY TOO quICkLY, HE’LL SLAP YOu. AnD If HE SEES YOu HOLDInG A WHISkY TASTInG GLASS THE WrOnG WAY, HE’LL kILL YOu.” W ith this warning in mind, Single Malts Magazine not only to the whisky but to the whole distillery. Now you caught up with Whyte and Mackay’s Master have one manager overseeing a few distilleries, but we’re all Blender, Richard Paterson. He’s worked with in the same boat, we’ve got to be competitive. For the loss the company since 1970 and is now considered of individuality, the quality of output has never been better, the one of the foremost voices in the world of whisky. compared to when I started out, we’re streets ahead in terms of quality. I judge at the International Wine and SM: Is there any specific way a novice can train to be a better Spirit Competition in London and without any compromise noser and taster or is it a natural skill only a few posses? in our standards we now give considerably more silver and RP: Becoming a Master Blender is a life’s work. You’ve got to gold medals. have 100% commitment and 120% passion for what you’re doing. Training takes many many years. You’ve got to be nosing We’re putting spirit into cask now for a global population samples at every stage of production whether it be malted barley to drink in 10 to 12 years. How do you gauge what future or grain whiskies. Only by knowing every individual facet can demand will be and what’s the general mood in the you really learn how to harmonise it all together. You’ve got to whisky industry? know the wood as well as well as you know the spirit and then We’re quietly confident just now and most distilleries are pair the quality of the two together. Through time you begin operating at a good level. A lot rests on the BRIC countries to develop an understanding of what works and what doesn’t; [Brazil, Russia, India and China]. We’re always trying to for The Dalmore we’ve used 30 different types of sherry casks second guess what will happen decades down the line but before settling on Matusalem as the absolute finest fit to our all the indicators point to these countries as having a big spirit, that takes time and experience. say in the future condition of the whisky industry. With the expansion of the middle classes and the more expansive So it’s about finding the perfect partner for each tastes that go with that we’d expect to see a decent export individual spirit? shift in their direction. The biggest concern for distilleries Each of our distilleries produces a different spirit [Whyte and just now is about casks and are there going to be enough. If Mackay oversee The Dalmore, Isle of Jura and Fettercairn]. My production keeps increasing we’ll need more casks and more job is to dress the spirit, to bring out the best qualities that are warehouse space – neither are cheap and decent sherry casks already in there. I’m clothing it like you’d clothe a woman; only are becoming harder to come by in light of fewer people the best casks will bring out the best qualities. Where you can drinking it. make a woman beautiful by dressing her in the right clothes, you can overdo it, like if you dress her in a mink coat. It’s What tip would you give to help drinkers bring out and about balance. There’s never a guarantee it’ll work out how you appreciate flavours in your whiskies? expected and you’ve got to be prepared to wait. The Mackenzie Whisky loves to be drunk in context. Dark chocolate, cigars [a recent premium release from The Dalmore] was in port casks and coffee all release different nuances of a complex whisky. for seven years, that’s a long time, but it worked. Whisky and cigar pairing is a real art and one that enhances the enjoyment of both. We’ve just released The Dalmore King How do malts differ when there is a personnel change at Alexander III which is a marriage of six differently aged malts the distillery – is there as much individual input to the all hailing from uniquely seasoned casks [French wine, Port, production process as when you started in the industry? Sherry, Madeira, Marsala and bourbon barrels from Kentucky]. We’re definitely going through a period of rationalisation Everyone who drinks it loves it and appreciates its quality, but just now and that has meant that some of the characters not many can pick out all the brilliant aromas from its varied associated with distilleries aren’t there any more. That’s a real maturation. When you start pairing it with chocolates and shame because each manager brought their own character cigars, it becomes much easier. 36 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 37
  • 21. Dalmore selene 58 year old launch DalMorE’s CurrENT raNGE The launch of the dalMore 12-year-old Bottled after 12 years instead of the industry’s usual 10, the 12 is Dalmore’s most youthful product. This whisky is matured in 50 per cent American white ThE 58 yo oak and 50 per cent Oloroso Sherry casks in order to develop its unique character. Its colour is a deep gold mahogany, while its aroma is firm, positive and elegant - citrus sElENE fruits and crushed almond, with a subtle hint of marzipan and chocolate. Its taste on the palate is intense, but the warmth of the tongue helps release the special attributes of citrus, sherry and exotic spices. The long, lingering aftertaste is the key to this spirit. T the dalMore 15-year-old he Dalmore recently a certificate of authenticity, which The Dalmore 15YO is the distillery’s flagship released their highly has been signed by The Dalmore’s expression, which delivers the perfect anticipated Selene, a Master Distiller and currently retails balance between spirit, wood and maturity. striking 58-year-old at US$18,000. Crafted from wood infused with three rare vintage, which has been drawn According to Paterson, the aroma sherries from Gonzalez-Byass, Apostoles, from two antique casks numbered of Selene combines lime, mandarin Amoroso and Matusalem, this whisky is 1781 and 1782. Both of these casks and grapefruit, with hints of rich, deep and golden mahogany in colour. were filled on 7th June 1951 and bergamot laced with thick plumy Its aroma is intense and firm, while its taste were left to age in the darkness treacle, aged Matusalem sherry, is described as having a good attack on the of The Dalmore’s ginger and spice. mouth, in an elegant way. warehouse until Hold the spirit on the Richard Paterson, “The aroma tongue and it tastes “a combination of sublime the dalMore 18-year-old Master Distiller from of selene like tangy thick cut casks that have been In 2009, The Dalmore launched a new 18-year-old expression for the first time in matured to perfection Whyte and Mackay marmalade, roasted and director of combines coffee beans, spiced its history. This whisky was first matured The Scotch Whisky lime, ground cinnamon make up The Dalmore’s in American white oak, and then moved to Experience, decided that it was time mandarin and and chocolate cake. This is complemented king alexander, a whisky Matusalem sherry butts for its final years of maturation. It has been described as a to combine their grapefruit, by marinated plums, that has been crafted n ‘galaxy of handmade chocolates’ and as aromas, finishes and with hints apricots and mangos commemoration of the having tasted of vanilla, Columbian coffee, flavours. of bergamot soaked in Port wine Mackenzie Clan founder’s truffles and rosemary, with subtle hints of parma violets and jasmine. laced with Named after the and dark muscovado Titan goddess of the sugar. heroic act in saving king thick plumy alexander III in 1263.” moon, only thirty The Dalmore gran reServa decanters of the treacle, aged distillery was built in The Dalmore’s Gran reserva was matured Selene have been produced. Made Matusalem 1839 by Alexander Matheson in Alness, and married in 60 per cent Sherry Wood and 40 per cent American White Oak, and out of the finest sherry, ginger Scotland and is winning collection, is matured in wooden casks, is typically crafted from casks ranging in Portuguese mouth and spice.” currently owned and which contributes to the flavour of each malt, age from 10 to 15 years. It is deep, golden blown crystal, each operated by Whyte along with the climate and years. Aimed at the mahogany in colour and has a strong, malty decanter has been and Mackay Ltd. The mainstream and high-class markets, ‘The 50’ is flavour that tantalises the tongue. crafted and enhanced with patient Dalmore follows a very distinctive the oldest and most expensive whisky sold by hand crafting, showing the care distillation process, which means The Dalmore, of which only 242 were produced. king alexander and dedication that has gone into no two batches are ever exactly the In 2005, a bottle of 62-year-old Dalmore was A combination of sublime casks that have its creation. These decanters are same, meaning that each measure of sold for a record breaking £32,000. Only 12 been matured to perfection make up The then encased in solid steel boxes, its product is unique. bottles were produced of the blend, which was Dalmore’s king Alexander, a whisky that inlaid with sensuous leather. The Dalmore Single Highland Malt a mix of five casks: 1868, 1878, 1922, 1926 and has been crafted in commemoration of Selene package is presented with Whiskey, the distillery’s award- 1939. the Mackenzie Clan founder’s heroic act in saving king Alexander III in 1263. 38 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 39