This document provides a summary of the latest whisky news and events from around the world. It discusses the recent Dubai Whisky Festival which was a success, with master classes being packed out. It also provides updates on new whisky releases, festivals and events happening in Scotland. The document profiles the 10 oldest and newest whisky distilleries in Scotland. It concludes by listing the best locations in Dubai to purchase a variety of single malts.
1. Single
malts
Issue 3
For isk Enthusiasts
the art oF
blenDing
with richard Patterson
Dubai First Whisky
Festival 2010
in association with
mmi
the Dalmore
58 years, selene
with fraser jones
highland heros
with jonathan castle
4. “At Highland Park we make whisky the traditional way:
hand-turning the malt; cutting peat by hand from our own
moor; maturing the spirit in our custom-made sherry butts;
nurturing it in Orkney’s gentle maritime climate; marrying
the whisky in cask to allow it to settle. Our intention is to
make the best whisky possible. That can’t be done by cutting
corners in the name of efficiency. This philosophy has earned
us many plaudits, including Distiller of the Year 2007 *.
A lifetime in the making, H I G H L A N D PA R K 4 0 Y E A R O L D
is the flagship expression of the most respected single malt
whisky in the world.”
Russell Anderson, Distillery Manager
www.highlandpark.co.uk * San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2007
4 SINGLE MALTS 5
Exclusively available in all MMI, Spinney’s & OUA retail shops
SINGLE MALTS
5. Editor’s Toast
Editor’s
ToasT
W
elcome to the third edition of Single Malt
Magazine. We’ve been in whisky overdrive
since last time out with events in both Dubai
and Abu Dhabi.
The Whisky Festival at Taste Dubai was a big hit with
both experienced tipplers and novices alike - all our
master classes packed out. In the capital we hooked
up with some single malt fiends for their ‘Guessamalt’
tasting where a great evening was had by all.
We’ve gone behind the scenes of The Dalmore’s latest
super premium launch, the Selene, and caught up with
its creator, Master Blender Richard Paterson, for a quick
Q + A.
Furthermore, All things Highland are investigated
in our main feature including an in depth look at
Glenmorangie and the incredible ‘16 Men
of Tain’.
Dubai
Slainte Mhath! Whisky
John Gillespie Festival
2010 were forced to
lance of supply vs demand they
portfolio that
pick off those producers from their
whiskies.
offered the least character to blended
malts are a
It must be remembered that single
now, over
relatively new phenomena and even
distilleries
90% of Scotch is blended. Lowland
were hit particularly hard as their delicate, subtle
value to the
aromas were considered of little
consumers
blended market. Only recently have
these lost
really appreciated what it is that
where
distilleries had to offer. Likewise,
distilling companies had more than one distillery
making similar styled malts, difficult decisions
rare stocks
had to be made. What’s left of these
– when its
should now be consumed with care
gone, its gone!
Next Issue
• The Lost Lowlands – Single Malt
investigates the once thriving
Lowlands distilleries
• Small in size, not in character - the
increasing popularity of farm distilleries
• Dram good curry – spicy up your
Indian cooking with a shot of the
good stuff
• Sherry? Yes please. What does
granny”s favourite tipple do
for your malt?
6 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 7
6. Contents
38
The Dalmore Selene 58YO Launch
52
hotspots Edinburgh
Contents
10 Dubai Whisky Festival 2010
14 What’s New
18 Top 10
20 Inside Highlands
30 Guessamalt, Abu Dhabi
32 Jim Murray Whisky Bible
36 Richard Paterson Q&A
38 Dalmore Selene 58 year old Launch
40 What makes a malt
42 Whisky & Cigar Pairings
44 Highland Heroes with Glenmorangie
48 Nose of the month
52 Hotspots Edinburgh
56 Edinburgh Fringe Festival
60 Scottish Style “The Kilt”
62
20
Events
64 Ask the Expert, with Fraser Jones
Highlands
8 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 9
PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY
7. Dubai
Whisky
Festival
2010
r’s Taste of Dubai Festival
MMI raised the bar at this yea
with the ever popular Bev erage Theatre suppor ted for
whisky experience and the
the first time by a separate
s Lounge’.
beautifully presented ‘Le Clo out with
The Single Mal t tasting sessions were packed
r the course of the four day
hundreds of par ticipants ove
a special chocolate and
festival. Gatherings included
junction with Chivas and
whisky pairing hosted in con to
French gourmands, Valr hona. Experts were on hand
through the ultra-rare
guide a lucky few par ticipants
le other sessions included
“Closed Distillery” range whi
Scotland’s diverse malt
Japanese whiskies, a tour of
rse St.Patricks day saw a
styles and Islay icons. Of cou
h!
celebration of all whiskies Iris
attraction wowing
Coo per Dan Meikleman was a star d’s
crowds with his dec ades of experience in Scotlan
rt of a tale or two, the expert
greatest industr y. Never sho
okers while showing off the
barrel maker entertained onlo
timeless craft of the cooper.
8.
9. WhaT’s
NEW?
MOrE C
, MOrE LOCATIOnS.
HOICE, MOrE vALuE ITH MMI…
EErfuL W
rEASOnS TO BE CH
ly working to br
ing you more GlENFIDDICh
a 40-yEar olD
t MM I, we’re constant r value all the tim
e.
ce and even bette
choice, convenien th e opening of ou
r
ed to announce
So we’re delight d in Dubai Festi
val
CollECTIblE rElEasED
nveniently locate
new flagship store co of our othe r 10 outlets
w store, or any m the largest wi
ne
City. Visit our ne ck up a bottle fro e Single-malt Scotch distillery Glenfiddich
across the city, and pi – there’s alw ays great in-stor
olio in the gulf course announced the launch of a limited edition
and spirit portf e for less. Plus of
ring you get mor ed in this issue 40 Year Old expression. It is the 6th set of
promotions ensu gle malts featur
fabulous sin Glenfiddich 40 Year Old, and only 600 will be
yo u’ll find all the
Magazine. presented on the world market at a price of
of your Whisky
$2,600 per bottle.
DubaI lauNChEs
ThE MaCallaN
pErFECT sErvE
Beverage purists argue that ice should never be introduced
to a quality scotch whisky. Such thinking rests on the theory
that when holding a glass, your body heat will melt the ice,
resulting in a diluted spirit and sub-par drinking experience.
In order to make a scotch cold without diluting it, Scottish
whisky purveyors The Macallan created a clever ice ball
maker. The machine creates a ball of ice precisely sized to
fit into an average tumbler. The spherical nature slows the
melting process making it less susceptible to hand warmth,
preserving the liquor while keeping it refreshingly cool.
Exclusively available at Address Hotels, Dubai, Emirates
Palace Abu Dhabi and Chedi in Oman
14 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 15
10. What’s New
100-yEar-olD WhyTE & MaCkay
uNvEIls ThE alMorE MaCkENzIE
WhIsky FouND uNDEr ErNEsT
shaCklEToN’s huT lIMITED EDITIoN
Scotch whisky distiller Whyte & Mackay last night
That’s the spirit! Cases of news has emerged that the crates unveiled The Dalmore Mackenzie limited edition, the
Mackinlay’s ‘Rare Old’ scotch of whisky long suspected to have latest line extension of its leading Highland single
whisky have been recovered been entombed by ice outside Sir malt, in the spectacular setting of Scotland’s National
from the ice outside Shackleton’s Ernest Shackleton’s Antarctic hut Gallery in Edinburgh.
Antarctic hut. What will it taste have finally been recovered. Only 3,000 limited edition bottles of the edition are
like? The spirits, supplied by the being released, of which 600 will be available in
Cases of Mackinlay’s whisky Scottish distillers Whyte and travel retail, principally through specialist whisky
found intact under the hut Mackay, were excavated from outlets such as World of Whiskies. The retail price is
used by the British Antarctic underneath Shackleton’s Antarctic around £100.
Expedition of 1907-1909 (The hut by the New Zealand Antarctic Whyte & Mackay said the launch “marks a new era
SS Nimrod expedition), led by Heritage Trust, who are involved in the distillery’s long affiliation with The Mackenzie
Sir Ernest Shackleton. Cape in restoration work on the Cape Clan”. The Dalmore Mackenzie launch was inspired
Royds, McMurdo side, Antarctica. Royds building, as well as the by the act of courage from an ancestor of Clan
Photograph: New Zealand Cape Evans hut later used by Mackenzie when he saved King Alexander III of
Antarctic Heritage Trust Captain Robert Scott as his Scotland in 1263 from being gored by a stag, a scene
After some hype and anticipation expedition base that is depicted in a famous painting by Benjamin
West that hangs in the National Gallery – next to
which guests enjoyed dinner last night.
EDrINGToN
lauNCh
park40
hIGhlaND
as a 5Cl MINIaTurE IT Is WITh GrEaT plEasurE
ThaT WE INTroDuCE our
Back in April 2008, launched The 40 Year Old has been
NEW MasTEr DIsTIllEr oF
Highland Park 40 Year Old, at the largely matured in refill casks, ThE GlENlIvET,
time the oldest whisky ever bottled
by the distillery. The response was
that is to say casks that have
previously been used to mature alan Winchester
terrific and the critics adored it; whisky; every time a cask is He brings a wealth of technical expertise, experience and love for
Highland Park 40 Year Old was used, its ability to impart The Glenlivet to this crucial role. He describes his appointment
named World’s Best New Release an influence on the spirit is as, “A huge honour. My main job will be to maintain the tradition
at the World Whisky Awards and diminished. When laying down a started by George Smith – a tradition of the highest quality, that
Jim Murray described it as “sheer whisky for extended maturation, the industry looks to as a reference point. no other distillery
poetry” in his Whisky Bible 2010. we don’t want the cask to combines a unique, pioneering role in the Scotch industry with
Now delighted to announce the dominate the spirit; 40 years allows such an enduring reputation for quality
release of Highland Park 40 Year time for the perfect balance to
Old as a 5cl miniature. be achieved.
16 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 17
11. Top 10
Where to Find a
GooD DraM sCoTlaND’s Top 10
fEATurInG OvEr 20 SInGLE MALTS, InCLuDInG
8 Of TOP 10 In THE WOrLD, AnD A furTHEr 20 olDEsT DIsTIllErIEs
MOrE BrAnDS AvAILABLE On rEquEST, THErE’S
SOMETHInG fOr EvErYOnE 1 Balblair ........................................................................................1790
2 Blair Athol ...................................................................................1798
Dubai Flagship retail store 3 Bowmore .....................................................................................1779
Le Clos ......................................Tel: 04 220 3583 4 Glenburgie ..................................................................................1810
Al Wasl ....................................Tel: 04 232 5522 5 Glen Garioch ...............................................................................1797
Mall of Emirates .......................Tel: 04 341 0371 6 Glenturret ....................................................................................1775
Ibn Battuta ..............................Tel: 04 368 5626 7 Oban............................................................................................1794
Trade Centre ...........................Tel: 04 352 3091 8 Strathisla......................................................................................1786
Shiekh Zayed Road ..................Tel: 04 321 1223 9 Tobermory...................................................................................1798
10 Highland Park .............................................................................1798
sCoTlaND’s Top 10
NEWEsT DIsTIllErIEs
1 Ailsa Bay .....................................................................................2007
2 Roseisle .......................................................................................2009
3 Abhainn Dearg ............................................................................2008
Dubai Festival City ...................Tel: 04 232 5522 4 Daftmill .......................................................................................2005
Opening Hours for all stores 5 Speyside ......................................................................................1976
11:00am-9pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays 6 Kininvie .......................................................................................1990
7 Kilchoman ...................................................................................2005
spinney’s Flagship retail stores 8 Glengyle ......................................................................................2004
Spinneys Muroor .....................Tel: 02 641 9366 9 Arran ...........................................................................................1993
Spinneys Khalidiya .................Tel: 02 681 2356 10 Allt-a-Bhainne .............................................................................1975
Spinneys Al Ain .......................Tel: 03 763 6367
Opening Hours for all stores
10:00am-1pm & 4pm – 8.30pm (Sat-Thurs).
Closed Fridays
oman Flagship retail stores
OUA Madinat Qaboos .................Tel: 2460 3892
SCS Azaiba...................................Tel: 2449 5157
OUA Ruwi ..................................Tel: 2470 4031
Opening Hours for all stores
9am-1pm & 5pm-9pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays
Sign up to the Single Malt
Society and find out about
whiSky eventS and excluSive
offerS throughout the uae. for
More inforMation log on to our
webSite: www.MMidubai.coM
18 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 19
12. Inside highlands
The High
roaD
frOM nOrTHErn JOHn O’GrOATS TO HELEnSBurGH In THE SOuTH, THE HIGHLAnDS
EnCOMPASS SCOTLAnD’S MOST DIvErSE SCEnErY, AnD MOST vArIED WHISkIES
a
sk almost anyone to picture Scotland and it is a land Geographically, The Highlands as a region is defined as
of heatherclad mountains that they will envision. everything north of the Highland Boundary Fault, a line that
The Highlands define the very essence of Scotland: runs roughly diagonal across the country from Stonehaven
remote, spectacular, hauntingly beautiful, hard to in the North East, through Loch Lomond and out across the
reach and even harder to leave. Firth of Clyde, crossing the northern tips of both Arran and
Hardly surprising, then, that this vast and complex region Mull in the South West. Thus included are most of Scotland’s
is also home to an unparalleled range and diversity of single mountains, including the highest, Ben Nevis, and most of her
malts, from the peaty blockbusters of the west, to sweetly islands, including Jura, Skye and the Orkneys. The whisky
subtle nectars from the North and East. heartland of Speyside also falls within this region, but it is
20 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 21
13. Inside highlands
USA. Glenturret, at Crieff, is one of the
claimants to being the oldest distillery,
although it was dismantled in the 1920s
and is much changed. Glenturret is a
major tourist attraction with more visitors
than any other distillery in Scotland.
Finally, Tullibardine (mothballed in 1995)
is close to Gleneagles, on the site of
the first public brewery in Scotland and
uses the same source of water. Nearby
Deanston, in the village of Doune,
occupies a converted cotton-mill, built in
1785 by Richard Arkwright, the inventor
over sixty miles from Grantown-on- of the ‘Spinning jenny’.
Spey. The original name of the distillery These South Highlands malts are
was ‘Strathspey’. Its style certainly leans lighter-bodied and sweeter that their
towards Speyside in character. cousins to the east, but not as sweet
Further down the A9 you’ll find Blair as Speysides. Like Speysides, they are
Athol Distillery near the town of the fragrant - blossom, violets, elderflowers,
same name, and Edradour Distillery heather, mint, spice, and pear notes are all
just down the road in Pitlochry. Blair found in the nose - but they tend to have
Athol - founded in the 1790s and one of a dry finish like other Highland malts,
Scotland’s oldest - and was substantially and unlike Speysides.
rebuilt in 1949. Edradour is the smallest As the largest recognised region in
distillery in Scotland, run by only two Scottish whisky nomenclature, it is no
people and producing only 12 barrels a surprise that its distilleries have a number
week. Though tiny, the whisky produced of claims to fame – the oldest, most
is clean, fresh, attractive and justly northerly, the highest, the world’s best
popular. The floral, minty, sweet-to-start / selling, the smallest and so on. In fact,
dry-to-finish flavour of these whiskies are they are a fascinating reflection of the
typical of the region. sheer beauty, scale and diversity of the
South again is Aberfeldy Distillery on region they occupy and the whiskies
the edge of the pretty town of the same originating there capture all of that
name. It was built by Dewar’s in 1898, diversity in their range of flavours and
counted as a subset of the Highlands the points of the compass, giving us wood maturation, though the sherry- whiskies, generally malty, slightly and is still the ‘heart malt’ of their blend - nuances. In many ways, ‘Highland’ is the
and accorded a separate classification Northern, Eastern, Western and Southern finishing technique developed in the new sweet, smooth, smoky and with the most popular Scotch in the proudest name a whisky can bear.
of its own, as is the south western island Highlands. In reality, there is a fifth part Glenmorangie range suits them well. a surprisingly dry finish. South of
of Islay. which is the Islands, and though these are Over in the West Highlands it’s a Aberdeen you’ll find Royal Lochnagar
As a result, distilleries given the lumped with the Highlands for political different story, partly due to geography, and Glencadam - these tend to be
distinction of calling their output and administrative reasons, as a group the partly climate. There are five distilleries richer, more toffee-like, with citrus
‘Highland’ single malt are as disparate as distilleries have their own character and recognized officially as West Highlands, notes, but still a whiff of smoke
the land they inhabit – distilleries with identity. Island and Islay distillers were three on islands and two on the mainland. and the dry finish. Further south is
their toes in the Atlantic and the North featured in Single Malt Issue two. The island distilleries are Jura (Isle of Fettercairn in the rich red farmland
sea, in rolling arable pastures and high The Northern Highlands is an area Jura), Ledaig/Tobermory (Isle of Mull) of the Meams, an underestimated
mountain passes, the most northerly of low-lying arable countryside and its and Talisker (Isle of Skye). The mainland malt with a fruity/fudge-like nose
Scotch Whisky distillery (Highland distilleries almost all enjoy a coastal distilleries are Oban (in Oban itself, just and a spicy finish. Glencadam is the
Park), and almost the most southerly setting. The exception is Clynelish, which off the high street) and Ben Nevis in last remaining distillery at Brechin
(Glengoyne). In fact, Glengoyne distillery sits slightly inland at the foot of the hills the town of Fort William. If they share and produces an unusual, creamy,
sits astride the fault, and though the behind Brora, at the heart of what used to a characteristic it is a typical smoky/ fruity malt strongly reminiscent of
whisky is matured on the Lowland side, be a model Highland estate. These North pepperiness, though nothing like as tangerines.
it is actually produced in the Highlands. Highland malts tend to be light bodied, strong as Islay malts and very much Further south, you encounter what
Loch Lomond distillery is similarly delicate whiskies with complex aromas depending upon age. used to be known as the ‘Perthshire
schizophrenic, though it draws its water and a dryish finish - sometimes spicy, Over in the East Highlands are the Whiskies’. Most are found along the
from the Highlands side of the fault and sometimes with a trace of salt. Some malts from distilleries north of the city valleys of the Tay and its tributaries,
so bestows the Highland name on are slightly peaty (Clynelish, Balblair); of Aberdeen – Macduff, home to the the Tummel and the Earn. The most
its whiskies. in others the smoke is more prominent Glen Deveron malt, Knockdhu, Ardmore, northerly of these is Dalwhinnie,
In whisky terms, the region is divided (Pulteney, Teaninich, Dalmore). Northern Glendronach and Glengarrioch. They which qualifies as a Speyside, although
officially into four parts, named after malts don’t usually undergo much sherry- tend to produce more medium-bodied it is at the very head of the river,
22 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 23
14. Inside highlands a-z
abErFElDy
The Aberfeldy Distillery was established
in 1898 by the sons of John Dewar, one expression of a ‘Perthshire Malt’.
of the first men to produce blended
whisky and who’s name to this day EDraDour
crowns one of the largest whisky The smallest distillery in Scotland,
companies in the world. Still a working Edradour is the last surviving farm
distillery, it is home to the Dewar’s distillery in Perthshire. Established in
World of Whisky visitor centre and open 1825, it is virtually unchanged and still
for tours. uses the original equipment installed
when it was started. Just three men
balblaIr produce a total of 12 barrels of whisky
Founded in 1790, Balblair Distillery a week of a very highly regarded
is the second oldest working whisky Highland malt.
distillery in Scotland. Situated at
Edderton, in one of the most beautiful GlENCaDaM
parts of the country, where the Ross- Established by George Cooper near
shire burns flow down Struie Hill to the the Royal Burgh of Brechin in 1825,
rich farmlands below and onwards to Glencadam is a little-known but
the shores of the Dornoch Firth. productive Eastern Highland distillery.
The air in Edderton is considered to Almost all of the production goes into
be the purest in Scotland, and it is said Ballantine’s blends.
that this contributes to Balblair’s mooth,
light, delicate and refreshing taste. GlENGarIoCh
Possibly Scotland’s oldest distillery,
bEN NEvIs Glengarrioch was officially established
The Ben Nevis Distillery is one of the in 1797 in the Garrioch valley,
oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland. traditionally the finest barley growing
It was established in 1825 by Long John area in Scotland. It is a small distillery
McDonald, a 6ft 4in descendant of a and not normally open to visitors, but
ruler of the western Scottish kingdom produces one of the most highly rated
of Argyll. In 1989 the distillery was sold Highland malts.
by Whitbread to Mitsui, partner of the
Japanese whiskymakers Nikka, and the GlENGoyNE
focus today is on quality, not volume. Established in 1833 just 12 miles north
A Highland
of Glasgow, Glengoyne is the most
blaIr aThol southerly of the ‘Highland’ distilleries,
Blair Athol distillery was founded in and actually sits astride the Highland
1798, but closed again soon after. It Boundary Fault. Whilst much of its
remained closed until 1825, when it was production used to go for blending,
reopened by John Robertson and a long an increasing proportion is now being
GazETTEEr
line of different owners then followed enjoyed as a single malt.
throughout the years. Only 5% of
production is sold as single malt - Blair GlENMoraNGIE
Athol is a main contributor to the Bell’s Established in 1843 at Tain, overlooking
whisky blend. the Dornoch Firth, the distillery actually
THE A – Z Of EvErY HIGHLAnD DISTILLErY CurrEnTLY began production using a pair of very
brora WOrkInG (AnD OnE THAT’S nOT) tall, second-hand gin stills. The shape of
Not currently working, Brora has a those original stills played a significant
fascinating history. Originally called role in the quality and refinement of the
Clynelish, it was established in 1819. Dalmore 62 year old is currently the through the Highlands. whisky and to this day Glenmorangie
Then the new (and current) Clynelish ClyNElIsh DalMorE world’s most expensive whisky. operates the tallest stills in Scotland.
distillery was built over the road and The ‘new’ Clynelish distillery went into Dalmore Distillery was established in DEaNsToN
the old one closed down in 1969. production in 1968, replacing the old 1839 by Alexander Matheson, and sits DalWhINNIE A relatively recent introduction, the GlEN orD
However, it was re-opened in 1975 and one which had originally been part of on the shores of the Cromarty Firth Originally named the Strathspey Distillery, Deanston Distillery was built in 1965 The last remaining distillery on the
produced the Brora single malt before a ‘model’ Highland estate. The current across the water from the Black Isle. It the current Dalwhinnie sits at the head of within the shell of a much older Black Isle, an area noted for the quality
closing in 1983. Brora is a much peatier output is a highly regarded single malt draws its water from the Alness river. the river Spey in the village of the same cotton mill which dates back to 1785. of its barley, Glen Ord’s production is
whisky than the new Clynelish, and was much appreciated by blenders, and The “twelve pointer stag” which adorns name high in the Cairngorm mountains. Produced from an unpeated malt, mostly used for blending but a limited
known as the ‘Lagavulin of the North’. forms the backbone of the Johnnie every bottle of Dalmore was introduced Its traditional pagoda roofs are a famous Deanston whisky is delightfully easy to quantity can now be found bottled as a
Intriguingly, the stills are still there… Walker Gold Label blend. from the Mackenzie clan crest, and sight from the nearby A9 main route drink, and regarded as the perfect single malt.
24 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 25
15. Inside highlands a-z
GlENTurrET
Officially founded in 1775, making it the
oldest recognised distillery in Scotland,
though illicit distilling took place
in the same location for many years
earlier. Home of ‘The Famous Grouse
Experience’, Glenturret is the most
visited distillery in Scotland.
loCh loMoND
The distillery was converted from a
dyeing factory in the mid 1960s and is
located very close to Loch Lomond. It
actually sits on the Highland/Lowland
line but as its water source is above
the Highland line its production is
considered as being of Highland origin.
Loch Lomond can produce a number of
different whiskies thanks to the unusual
design of its stills.
obaN
Established in 1794 by the three
Stevenson brothers who also founded
the town of Oban itself. Though most of
its output goes for blending, what little
of the typically West Highland malt does
escape as a single malt, is very highly
regarded by connoisseurs.
FETTErCaIrN
Possibly the second oldest licensed
distillery in Scotland, established in
1824 and extended and rebuilt since.
Primarily used for blending, a small
amount is now released as a single malt.
olD pulTNEy
Established in 1826 in Wick, Pulteney
Distillery is the most northerly distillery
on the Scottish mainland and was
originally only accessible by sea. The
barley was brought in by sea, the
whisky shipped out the same way and
many of the distillery workers were
also employed as fishermen. One of the
finest Highland malts available.
royal loChNaGar captain Hugh Munro in 1817, though TullIbarDINE
The Lochnagar distillery was established he later he rented it out. Teaninich is The Tullibardine Whisky distillery was
by John Begg in 1845 near the village famous because it was the first distillery opened in 1949 on the site of a former
of Crathie, close to Balmoral, the Royal to have electricity. In 1971 a new still brewery. It was opened by William
family’s Scottish country home. The house, called “Side A” with six stills, Delme-Evans, architect of the Jura and
distillery was given its “Royal” status in was built, replacing the old stills that Glenallachie distilleries. In 2003, it was
1848 following a visit from the Queen’s were later mothballed. The first official purchased by a business consortium
husband Prince Albert. bottlings of Teaninich single malt only and is now the thriving heart of a retail
became available in 1992, and most of complex and tourist attraction.
TEaNINICh the malt produced is still used in blends
The Teaninich distillery was built by such as Johnnie Walker.
26 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 27
16. Inside highlands in Numbers
Highlands in
NuMbErs
1%
The proportion of Teaninich’s output
1775
The date when Glenturret distillery was
12
in 1263 an ancestor of future Dalmore
3
Men operate Scotland’s smallest 58,000 90
released as a single malt. established, making it Scotland’s oldest. owners Clan Mackenzie, saved King distillery in the stunning Perthshire In an English hotel one night in 2005 Copper pipes stretching 90 meters
Alexander III from being gored by a countryside. Edradour produces only a gentleman bought The Dalmore’s condense the evaporated spirit from
12
Total output in barrels per week from
1724
The date when Glen Garioch may have
stag while he was hunting. The grateful
King granted him the right to bear
a 12 pointed or ‘Royal’ stag’s head
12 casks of whisky a week making it
a rare pleasure for only the fortunate
few…
62 Year old malt for US$ 58,000. He
indulgently downed it the same night
with five of his friends.
the still house at the mainland’s
northernmost distillery, Pulteney.
Edradour, Scotland’s smallest distillery. been established, under an earlier
name.
on his coat of arms. The same stag’s
head today adorns all bottles from the
26 2 1833
32,000
The price in pounds sterling paid for a 1887
Highland distiller.
At a height of over 26 feet,
Glenmorangie’s stills are the tallest in
The number of distilleries that were
at one point named Clyenlish. The
The year in which Burnfoot distillery
was established by George Connell. It
is better known today as Glengoyne.
single bottle of Dalmore 62. The year when Alfred Barnard wrote Scotland and are based on the original Scottish Whisky Association later
that Teanininh was lit by electricity. former gin stills as installed in 1843. demanded one of the names be
changed and Brora distillery was born.
28 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 29
17. Guessamalt, abu Dhabi
GuEssaMalT
s
ingle Malts Magazine has
been in the capital this
month to join a group of
whisky aficionados at their
‘Guessamalt’ tasting dinner. Stanley
Hartmann and Sonny Jonathans
started the club in 2005 and since
then have brought together scores of
enthusiastic tipplers to their single
malt events.
The aim of the evening is
somewhat given away by it’s name.
Attendees are requested to bring a
bottle of their favourite malt, all of
which are then listed with tasting
notes written by trade professionals.
Throughout the course of the meal,
this time hosted at the beautiful
Mombasa Grille, Souq Qaryat Al Beri,
drinkers are then invited to blind
sample all the whiskies while trying
to decipher which one they are.
Prizes are given for most correct
matches and also for the one who
brought the malt receiving the
highest average score of the evening
– this time the people’s choice was
the Macallan 12 Year Old Fine Oak.
A thoroughly enjoyable evening was
rounded off with the Macallan 25
Old Fine Oak, served over a perfect
sphere of ice courtesy of The Macllan
iceball machine.
If you’d like to get involved with
the next Guessamalt evening, contact
Stan on:
T: 050 591 3454
E: stanhart@eim.ae
30 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 31
18. Jim Murray Whisky bible
Jim
Murray
I
f Jim Murray had followed his chosen path at the age
of 13, things might have been very different in the
whisky industry today. Murray claims that “at this age
I had no intention in being a whisky writer, neither
did I aspire to be a journalist, broadcaster, Prime Minister
or racing driver. There was only one thing I wanted to be
- a professional cricketer. But it was not to be’. A loss for
the world of cricket – a gain for the world of whisky as Jim
Murray is now arguably one of the industry most influential
leading voices. In addition to his writing and broadcasting
on the subject, Murray has also worked as a consultant
blender for whisky and rum, as well as using his influence
to resurrect the closed distillery of Ardbeg. Murray is
Jim Murray’s
famously fanatical about guarding the integrity and honesty
of his writing and has been vocal about how writing for
media dependant on advertising can lead to the compromise
of these values. To this end he now very selective about the WorlD WhIsky aWarDs 2010
articles he contributes and always insists on retaining full
copyright on the writing he submits. Single Malt Scotch
As a young man from Merstham, Surrey, Jim Murray’s no Age Statement (Multiple cask) – Ardbeg Supernova
interests lay closer to sport, which he followed avidly and no Age Statement (runner up) – Glenmorangie Sonnalta PX
which he combined with his passion for journalism. This 10 Years and under (Multiple cask) – Octomore 5 Years Old
blending of passions was to lead to the publication of his 10 Years and under (Single cask) – SMWS 77.17 (Glen Ord)
first book: Lions of the South (1988), a history of Murray’s 11-15 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Tomintoul 14 Years Old
beloved and unfashionable Millwall F.C. Murray would go on 11-15 Years Old (Single cask) – Isle of Arran Sherry 353
to pursue a career in journalism, spending over 13 years on 16-21 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Glen Grant 1992*
Fleet Street working on British tabloid papers The Sunday 16-21 Years Old (Single cask) – Glendronach 1992 Cask 401
22-27 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Brora 25 Years Old 7th*
22-27 Years Old (Single cask) – Cadenhead’s Benriach 23YO
28-34 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Highland Park 30 Years Old
28-34 Years Old (Single cask) – Douglas Laing Glencadem 32YO
35-40 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Glenglassaugh 40 Years Old
35-40 Years Old (Single cask) – Whisky fair Glen Grant 36 YO
41 Years and Over (Multiple cask) – Glenfiddich 50 Years Old
41 Years and Over (Single cask) – Glenfarclas 1962 release III
People and Daily Star. He left in 1992 to write about whisky
full-time, having already amassed considerable notes on
whiskies from distilleries visited whilst on various press
secondments. “I was trying to write about it [whisky] in the
early 80s – but most magazines and newspapers just didn’t
want to know...there was no one else doing it and if anyone
was doing it, it was being done by wine writers. Some of
what they were writing was just a joke, but there was nothing
you could do about it.” Murray claims to have fallen in love
with whisky whilst in the States during 1974 at the age of 16.
He tasted lots of Rye whiskies and bourbons in Maryland,
32 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 33
19. Jim Murray Whisky bible
have you got a nose
like Jim Murray?
next time you have a dram see how
many of these aromas and flavours Source: The Scotch Whisky
you can identify in your single malt. research Institute’s flavour Wheel
and this first flush was confirmed as a lasting love a year later be tough work on the nose and palate. Murray attributes
when he went hitchhiking round Scotland, further educating the fact that he has never even held a dry cigarette to his
and feeding his palate and stumbling across the Talisker mouth, let alone smoked, as one of the major factors behind
distillery,. being able to maintain his precious organoleptic abilities.
In 1994 Murray released his Irish Whisky almanac which Such is his distaste for cigarettes that he regularly turns
was the first of a series of publications which would help down the large amounts of money he is offered to his to
to secure his place as a leading voice of authority within put his name against cigarette advertising. With regards
both the domestic and global whisky trade. 2003 saw the to technique, he goes on to explain: “If I’m nosing and I
beginning of what has become an ongoing project in the form don’t feel that I’m getting what I should get, then I stop....I
of the Jim Murray Whisky Bible, which documents Murray’s simply don’t nose...but when my nose is on form, which is
tasting notes for every single whisky he is able to acquire most days, I can go on for some considerable time. It tires
throughout the year. Murray’s scoring system works on a you out after several hours, but by that time, you’ve got a
100 point structure, focusing on four different areas of nose, lot of work done.” However he does say that the addition
taste, finish and balance. His approach focuses primarily on of caramel to whiskies can reduce the number of samples
what is wrong with the whisky he’s tasting, stripping points that he can get through in a day, as can sulphur. On a good
away as he goes along. He looks at the age, what he would run he can get through 30-40 whiskies and although any
expect from it and most importantly balance. He will also serious professional will need to spit in order to get their
look at the distillery and take into consideration how certain work done, he does admit that at the end of the day, he
whiskies from certain distilleries have performed over the may succumb to having a nip of something: “Sometimes you
years and will mark them up or down according their overall do get one [whisky] which is sent down from the heavens
consistency of quality. and is plonked in front of you and there’s rays of sunlight
It is estimated that Murray tastes anything between two coming from it and you think, ok, I’ve spat it out once, but
and half to three thousand whiskies a year, which can I’m damned if I’m going to spit it out again.”
34 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 35
20. richard paterson Q & a
ThE rICharD
paTErsoN
INTErvIEW
“If YOu DrInk THE WHISkY TOO quICkLY, HE’LL SLAP YOu. AnD If HE SEES YOu
HOLDInG A WHISkY TASTInG GLASS THE WrOnG WAY, HE’LL kILL YOu.”
W
ith this warning in mind, Single Malts Magazine not only to the whisky but to the whole distillery. Now you
caught up with Whyte and Mackay’s Master have one manager overseeing a few distilleries, but we’re all
Blender, Richard Paterson. He’s worked with in the same boat, we’ve got to be competitive. For the loss
the company since 1970 and is now considered of individuality, the quality of output has never been better,
the one of the foremost voices in the world of whisky. compared to when I started out, we’re streets ahead
in terms of quality. I judge at the International Wine and
SM: Is there any specific way a novice can train to be a better Spirit Competition in London and without any compromise
noser and taster or is it a natural skill only a few posses? in our standards we now give considerably more silver and
RP: Becoming a Master Blender is a life’s work. You’ve got to gold medals.
have 100% commitment and 120% passion for what you’re
doing. Training takes many many years. You’ve got to be nosing We’re putting spirit into cask now for a global population
samples at every stage of production whether it be malted barley to drink in 10 to 12 years. How do you gauge what future
or grain whiskies. Only by knowing every individual facet can demand will be and what’s the general mood in the
you really learn how to harmonise it all together. You’ve got to whisky industry?
know the wood as well as well as you know the spirit and then We’re quietly confident just now and most distilleries are
pair the quality of the two together. Through time you begin operating at a good level. A lot rests on the BRIC countries
to develop an understanding of what works and what doesn’t; [Brazil, Russia, India and China]. We’re always trying to
for The Dalmore we’ve used 30 different types of sherry casks second guess what will happen decades down the line but
before settling on Matusalem as the absolute finest fit to our all the indicators point to these countries as having a big
spirit, that takes time and experience. say in the future condition of the whisky industry. With the
expansion of the middle classes and the more expansive
So it’s about finding the perfect partner for each tastes that go with that we’d expect to see a decent export
individual spirit? shift in their direction. The biggest concern for distilleries
Each of our distilleries produces a different spirit [Whyte and just now is about casks and are there going to be enough. If
Mackay oversee The Dalmore, Isle of Jura and Fettercairn]. My production keeps increasing we’ll need more casks and more
job is to dress the spirit, to bring out the best qualities that are warehouse space – neither are cheap and decent sherry casks
already in there. I’m clothing it like you’d clothe a woman; only are becoming harder to come by in light of fewer people
the best casks will bring out the best qualities. Where you can drinking it.
make a woman beautiful by dressing her in the right clothes,
you can overdo it, like if you dress her in a mink coat. It’s What tip would you give to help drinkers bring out and
about balance. There’s never a guarantee it’ll work out how you appreciate flavours in your whiskies?
expected and you’ve got to be prepared to wait. The Mackenzie Whisky loves to be drunk in context. Dark chocolate, cigars
[a recent premium release from The Dalmore] was in port casks and coffee all release different nuances of a complex whisky.
for seven years, that’s a long time, but it worked. Whisky and cigar pairing is a real art and one that enhances
the enjoyment of both. We’ve just released The Dalmore King
How do malts differ when there is a personnel change at Alexander III which is a marriage of six differently aged malts
the distillery – is there as much individual input to the all hailing from uniquely seasoned casks [French wine, Port,
production process as when you started in the industry? Sherry, Madeira, Marsala and bourbon barrels from Kentucky].
We’re definitely going through a period of rationalisation Everyone who drinks it loves it and appreciates its quality, but
just now and that has meant that some of the characters not many can pick out all the brilliant aromas from its varied
associated with distilleries aren’t there any more. That’s a real maturation. When you start pairing it with chocolates and
shame because each manager brought their own character cigars, it becomes much easier.
36 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 37
21. Dalmore selene 58 year old launch
DalMorE’s
CurrENT raNGE
The launch of
the dalMore 12-year-old
Bottled after 12 years instead of the
industry’s usual 10, the 12 is Dalmore’s
most youthful product. This whisky is
matured in 50 per cent American white
ThE 58 yo
oak and 50 per cent Oloroso Sherry casks
in order to develop its unique character. Its
colour is a deep gold mahogany, while its
aroma is firm, positive and elegant - citrus
sElENE
fruits and crushed almond, with a subtle
hint of marzipan and chocolate. Its taste on
the palate is intense, but the warmth of the
tongue helps release the special attributes
of citrus, sherry and exotic spices. The long,
lingering aftertaste is the key to this spirit.
T
the dalMore 15-year-old
he Dalmore recently a certificate of authenticity, which The Dalmore 15YO is the distillery’s flagship
released their highly has been signed by The Dalmore’s expression, which delivers the perfect
anticipated Selene, a Master Distiller and currently retails balance between spirit, wood and maturity.
striking 58-year-old at US$18,000. Crafted from wood infused with three rare
vintage, which has been drawn According to Paterson, the aroma sherries from Gonzalez-Byass, Apostoles,
from two antique casks numbered of Selene combines lime, mandarin Amoroso and Matusalem, this whisky is
1781 and 1782. Both of these casks and grapefruit, with hints of rich, deep and golden mahogany in colour.
were filled on 7th June 1951 and bergamot laced with thick plumy Its aroma is intense and firm, while its taste
were left to age in the darkness treacle, aged Matusalem sherry, is described as having a good attack on the
of The Dalmore’s ginger and spice. mouth, in an elegant way.
warehouse until Hold the spirit on the
Richard Paterson, “The aroma tongue and it tastes “a combination of sublime the dalMore 18-year-old
Master Distiller from
of selene like tangy thick cut casks that have been In 2009, The Dalmore launched a new
18-year-old expression for the first time in
matured to perfection
Whyte and Mackay marmalade, roasted
and director of combines coffee beans, spiced its history. This whisky was first matured
The Scotch Whisky lime, ground cinnamon make up The Dalmore’s in American white oak, and then moved to
Experience, decided
that it was time
mandarin and and chocolate cake.
This is complemented
king alexander, a whisky Matusalem sherry butts for its final years
of maturation. It has been described as a
to combine their grapefruit, by marinated plums, that has been crafted n ‘galaxy of handmade chocolates’ and as
aromas, finishes and with hints apricots and mangos
commemoration of the having tasted of vanilla, Columbian coffee,
flavours.
of bergamot soaked in Port wine
Mackenzie Clan founder’s
truffles and rosemary, with subtle hints of
parma violets and jasmine.
laced with
Named after the and dark muscovado
Titan goddess of the sugar. heroic act in saving king
thick plumy
alexander III in 1263.”
moon, only thirty The Dalmore gran reServa
decanters of the treacle, aged distillery was built in The Dalmore’s Gran reserva was matured
Selene have been
produced. Made
Matusalem 1839 by Alexander
Matheson in Alness,
and married in 60 per cent Sherry Wood
and 40 per cent American White Oak, and
out of the finest sherry, ginger Scotland and is winning collection, is matured in wooden casks, is typically crafted from casks ranging in
Portuguese mouth and spice.” currently owned and which contributes to the flavour of each malt, age from 10 to 15 years. It is deep, golden
blown crystal, each operated by Whyte along with the climate and years. Aimed at the mahogany in colour and has a strong, malty
decanter has been and Mackay Ltd. The mainstream and high-class markets, ‘The 50’ is flavour that tantalises the tongue.
crafted and enhanced with patient Dalmore follows a very distinctive the oldest and most expensive whisky sold by
hand crafting, showing the care distillation process, which means The Dalmore, of which only 242 were produced. king alexander
and dedication that has gone into no two batches are ever exactly the In 2005, a bottle of 62-year-old Dalmore was A combination of sublime casks that have
its creation. These decanters are same, meaning that each measure of sold for a record breaking £32,000. Only 12 been matured to perfection make up The
then encased in solid steel boxes, its product is unique. bottles were produced of the blend, which was Dalmore’s king Alexander, a whisky that
inlaid with sensuous leather. The Dalmore Single Highland Malt a mix of five casks: 1868, 1878, 1922, 1926 and has been crafted in commemoration of
Selene package is presented with Whiskey, the distillery’s award- 1939. the Mackenzie Clan founder’s heroic act in
saving king Alexander III in 1263.
38 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 39