1. Thursday 21 July 2016 Shanghai DailyB6
ideal FEATURE
Patsy Yang
G
reat cities like Rome have a way
of both striking visitors with
their epic grandeur, while at
the same time keeping their best
treasures concealed at the end of ancient
alleyways and behind grand palazzos.
To truly explore Rome, one needs
plenty of time to slow down, take
detours, enjoy its astonishing ancient
sights, live like its life-embracing
locals, and imbibe “la grande belleza”
(the great beauty).
I've always felt emotionally con-
nected to this city for its unparalleled
grandness and scale, and the human
drama contained in every aspect of its
history. If Paris is an elegant woman,
Rome would be a masculine, powerful
man.
My recent travels brought me back
to Rome and my connections with the
city only grew deeper. Rome is one
and only: the Eternal City, as it’s often
called, is like a stage play filled with
endless drama and entertainment.
I love to pace myself when I travel,
especially in the sprawling city like
Rome. I never want to overindulge
because I always assume I’ll return.
Having visited the usual spots like
Vatican City, Trevi Fountain, the Span-
ish Steps and the Colosseum, this time
I was after more unexpected experienc-
es. And lucky enough, my local friends
constantly surprised me.
One morning after a cappuccino at
Piazza del Popolo, where the ancient
Romans used to race their chariots, my
friend Lorenza Scalisi, an experienced
journalist and travel designer for the
travel atelier Italian Ways, showed up.
“I have booked something for you. Fol-
low me,” she said.
As I love to be surprised, I didn’t ask
any questions. “Surprise me,” I replied.
After about a 20 minute walk, we
stopped at one palazzo near Piazza
Venezia, with a facade sober and less
impressive than other structures in
the center of Rome. After I entered its
Always something new to see in the Eternal City
A view of the Ponte Sant'Angelo bridge in Rome. — Patsy Yang
Angel sculptures line the Ponte Sant'Angelo — courtesy of Italian
Ways
Above: The Palazzo Colonna boasts a vast
collection of valuable paintings and antiques.
Left: A view of the galleria inside the Palazzo
Colonna. — Courtesy of Italian Ways
galleria on the second floor, I saw such
magnificence that even surpassed my
first impression of the Vatican Mu-
seum. It was jaw-dropping.
From the interior, it was easy to see
that this was once of the most lavish
and regal of Roman palaces. The rich
furniture, the vast collection of deli-
cate, valuable paintings in the superb
gallery, the immense columns of an-
tique marbles — my eyes kept traveling
as I searched for words to describe my
emotions.
The galleria itself is a setting of
aristocratic grandeur, a jewel of Roman
Baroque that is only open to the public
every Saturday from 9am to 1:15pm as
the family who owns this palatial home
still resides here (make sure you’re in
Rome over the weekend).
The Colonna family is one of the
oldest families of the Roman aristoc-
racy, with a history that dates back to
the 12th century. The family started
construction of the palazzo in 14th
century and work continued through-
out the 1600s. It eventually took the
form of a large Baroque palace. Also
during this time the Versailles-like Gal-
leria was built featuring 76 meters of
length facing onto via IV Novembre.
The private palazzo contains one
of the finest private art collections
in Rome. It includes gorgeous works
by the likes of Pinturicchio, Cosme
Tura, Carracci and Guido Reni. And
one might also recognize the Baroque
galleria from the final scene in “Roman
Holiday,” where Audrey Hepburn meets
the press.
After the tour at Palazzo Colonna, I
started to wander the narrow streets,
and gathered with locals in squares
marked by bubbling fountains. One of
Rome's chief pleasures is its compact
layout in the center of the city that can
be navigated in a single day with plenty
of time for leisurely rests. This is easy
to do, especially if you want to fuel up
on an espresso.
A good place to start is the Pantheon
neighborhood. Though highly touristy,