Ionian Paradise is a charming, nicely refurbished budget accomodation in a quiet central location in Nydri resort in Lefkas island in Greece

1. Lefkada, the Greek Islands: the
perfect break
Why go now?
Despite its small size, glorious beaches, sophisticated capital and easy accessibility (the ―island‖ is in fact linked to the Greek
mainland via a small bridge), Lefkada remains, along with tiny Ithaca, one of the Ionian’s most unspoiled destinations.
Admittedly, the coastal towns of Nydri and Vassiliki – where large bays and consistently blustery winds attract droves of
watersports fanatics – have seen some (mostly sympathetic) developments, but the majority of the island, including the
sleepy villages of the Sfakiotes region, and the gorgeous former capital of Karya, has retained its authentic character.
Traditional village life, centred around the local kafenio, continues, almost unchanged in more than a century.
Go in September. Prices are lower, temperatures milder, and the dramatic beaches of the island’s west coast – among the
Mediterranean’s very best – will feel practically deserted.
Spend the morning...
Seeking out the island’s best beaches. Egremni, a couple of miles south of Athani, is arguably the finest. Long, sandy, and
backed by sheer white cliffs, it is never crowded, largely thanks to the 355 steps that visitors must negotiate to reach it, and
the absence of a WC. The final 50 steps take you over some steep and rickety wooden scaffolding, but at the first glimpse of
the impossibly turquoise sea, you’ll realise it was worth the trip.
The shingle beach of Porto Katsiki, a little further south, is equally dramatic but there’s just 100 steps to contend with.It can
get quite busy between noon and 4pm. Pefkoulia (sandy) and Kathisma (shingle), on the northwest coast, are excellent
options for families. Both are safe, easily accessible and close to the shops and restaurants of Agios Nikitas. Pefkoulia attracts
scores of campers, who vie for shade among the trees that overlook the sand, while the delicious iced coffees served up at
Kathisma’s whitewashed beach bar should not be missed. Daily hire of a sun lounger typically costs eight euros for a pair, and
all four beaches have at least one snack bar close to the shore.

2. Have lunch...
In lively Agios Nikitas, on the island’s west coast. Don’t be put off by first impressions. Beyond the unattractive road and car
park that initially greets visitors to the village, there sits an unexpectedly eye-catching collection of tightly-packed bars, shops
and guesthouses, which tumble down the hillside towards a picturesque pebble beach.
There are about a dozen tavernas to choose from, most of which are located on the beachfront or on the main artery that leads
from the beach back up the hill. None really stand out — they all share the same menu of sardines, saganaki and salads (even
the local strays appear to fastidiously paw their way to every restaurant in turn), but T’agnantio is a safe bet and has lovely
views. The pedestrianised town is perfect for a post-lunch stroll, and the beach loses the sun in the afternoon, so it’s is a good
place to relax if you’ve been suffering in the heat.
Spend the afternoon...
Walking among the forgotten villages of Sfakiotes. The seven settlements that make up this municipality each lie no more
than a kilometre from their nearest neighbour, so you can easily explore them all in one go. Even in the cooler afternoon
hours, the idea of pacing around this hilly terrain will put off some, but adventurous ramblers will be rewarded with the sight
of age-old olive groves, ancient wells, ruined watermills, crumbling campaniles, and wizened but welcoming locals,
sometimes dressed in traditional garb.
Beginning from the 17th Century Church of Agios Nikolaos in Kavalos, one of the oldest in the region, take the high road to
Spanochori, head downhill to Lazarata, before working your way through Pinokochori, Prementinos and Asprogerakata. If
you’re feeling up to it, continue to Pigadisanoi (the last of the Sfakiotes villages) and then onwards to the town of Karya.
As the day wears on, the locals awaken from their siestas and the villages come to life. Elderly women sweep their porches,
hang out the washing, and indulge in some idle chatter with neighbours. Their sons and husbands head straight for the
kafenio to chain smoke, drink and play backgammon. Hardy souls limp along the main road laden with wood and grumpy
taxi drivers argue the toss with toothless gas station attendants. It is the Greece of De Bernieres and Durrell, and is not to be
missed. Join the locals and reward your endeavours with a coffee glyko or, better yet, an ice-cold ouzo.
Have dinner...
On one of the island’s prettiest squares. Platia Agios Spyridon, in the heart of Lefkada Town, is often a hive of activity, playing
host to religious processions during Greek Orthodox feast days, and dramatic performances during the island’s annual
summer arts festival.
The northern end of the square is dominated by the 17th century church of the same name, the rest is lined with bars and
restaurants. Nautilus, on the south west corner, serves a good range of traditional Greek dishes. The town itself is worth
exploring — there are more pretty churches to uncover and the unusual corrugated-iron building style (a legacy of the
earthquakes that have plagued the region for centuries) lends the town a certain shabby charm.
Karya’s main square, shaded by enormous plane trees and filled to the brim with chattering diners, is equally atmospheric.
Try Karaboulias, one of several tavernas that ply their trade here, before picking up a souvenir at one of the embroidery shops
for which this village is renowned. Penguins, on the harbour front in Vassiliki, is another good option. Expect friendly service
and excellent seafood.
Stay up late...
In Vassiliki, where the streets throng into the small hours with bronzed windsurfers and young tykes riding BMX bikes. The
―Iced Russian‖ cocktails at Bar Vass are superb.
Spend the following day...
On the island’s outermost edges. Very little lies beyond Porto Katsiki, the last of the stunning beaches on Lefkada’s west
coast.
The coastal road winds for ten miles through featureless terrain, with only an occasional cluster of goats to keep you
company, until you reach Cape Lefkada, a windswept promontory with sheer drops to the sea below and stunning views to
Kefalonia and Ithaca, the legendary home of Odysseus. It was here that the ancient Greek poet Sappho is said to have leapt to

3. her death after she was spurned by a lover. There is little to see on the peninsular except a small monastery and lighthouse,
but it’s still a thrilling little detour.
Boat trips from Nydri to one or more of Lefkada’s satellite islands, are also popular. Many will moor off Skorpios, the private
island where Jacqueline Kennedy married Greek shipping tycoon Aristotle Onassis in 1968.
At all costs avoid...
Venturing too far without some cash. Very few establishments will accept plastic cards, and the larger towns’ ATMs are often
on the blink.
And don’t miss the chance to pick up a jar of delicious thyme-infused honey (meni) from the slew of roadside vendors across
the island.