Is This a Thing? (Episode 7) Chef Wade Barkman dishes on The Republic and Primrose Path

1. Podcast Transcript
Is This a Thing? (Episode 7)
Chef Wade Barkman dishes on The Republic and Primrose Path
Wade Barkman (The Republic, Primrose Path) and Public Communications Director Jay Socol
Jay Socol: Hi, everybody, Jay Socol, Communications Director for the City of College Station. This is a special edition of “Is This a
Thing?” Taking this thing out into the field and talking to Wade Barkman, the owner and executive chef for The Republic
Steakhouse at Chimney Hill. We get a real idea of who Wade is, where he came from, how The Republic came to be. It's
a pretty neat slice of history. That's part one. In part two, we talk about what he's building right now, what you see
coming out of the ground very close to his current location. He talks about The Republic and talks about what else that
belongs to him that is sharing that same slab. So I think you're going to enjoy it. Here is the latest “Is This a Thing?” with
Wade Barkman.
Welcome to another edition of our podcast called “Is This A Thing?” My name is Jay Socol. I'm Communications Director
for the City of College Station. My guest today is Wade Barkman, owner and executive chef at The Republic Steakhouse
at Chimney Hill. That's where we are right now. Wade, how are you doing?
Wade Barkman: Doing well, very well.
Jay Socol: Thanks for allowing us to come invade your space.

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Wade Barkman: Absolutely. It's my pleasure.
Jay Socol: Do you ever come here during the middle of the day?
Wade Barkman: A lot more recently. Yeah, absolutely.
Jay Socol: Okay, and we're gonna get to that because there's a lot to talk about. But I want to really turn the clock back for people
who don't know who you are or your background, how you got here, and what The Republic is all about. I'd like you to
start from the beginning. Who are you, and what is your story?
Wade Barkman: My name is Wade Barkman. I came to A&M as an undergrad, actually transferred in from playing a bunch of junior
college baseball teams, and came to that fork in the road of take some scholarships to go play at places you don't want
degrees from or use your brains and come to A&M, and obviously came to A&M. Being an out-of-stater at the time
there weren't a ton of out-of-staters, A&M was just one of those things where I only applied to one place and got in and
wanted the degree and, my parents being serial entrepreneurs and highly educated, said, "Do you need to get a real
degree before you go to culinary school?" So that's where I started to get here.
Jay Socol: Well, how did A&M even get on your radar?
Wade Barkman: My mother has a PhD in 18th century women's literature, and gave it-
Jay Socol: That's weird, because I do, too.
Wade Barkman: No one should. As a ninth or tenth grade, she was giving speeches everywhere. I didn't go to any of them, but she went
to 40-some odd different universities giving speeches on 18th century women's literature. I went to none of them, but
her best friends at the time during master's and PhD at UNM in Albuquerque was a hardcore, hardcore, Texas Aggie,
bloodline, everybody was up at Ags. I didn't know what that was, so needless to say, I came to the speech, snuck out of
the speech to not embarrass her or myself, and at Rudder Tower I saw the women at the MSC and said, "Huh. Yeah,
A&M. Let's do it."
Jay Socol: This place is for me.
Wade Barkman: This is a great idea. That's honestly ... I love the tradition of it, I love the story behind it, and I love the idea of the ring
and I didn't have a clue at that time how powerful it was.

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Jay Socol: Did you have an idea then that you wanted to stay here even after school?
Wade Barkman: I didn't stay here after school. That's kind of a cool thing about College Station, is a lot of people now are. But in my day,
it was van's packed, you're ready to roll. Thank you for the degree. I'm out. Right after A&M, I went to culinary school
and I think 30 days later I started at CIA in New York at Poughkeepsie Hyde Park. No, I didn't want to stay at all. I had
nothing to stay for. There wasn't a ton of ... Well, I had to go to culinary school, honestly was the main reason.
Jay Socol: About what year was this?
Wade Barkman: That would've been December of 2000. In December of 2000, graduated CIA, Culinary Institute of America. In 2002, did
my externship in the interim of that program in Napa and had a bunch of job offers in New York City. My buddy told me
that 80 grand in New York City is…take the other job offers. I had a bunch of offers in Las Vegas, and one in particular
was my connection with a guy in culinary school that his best buddy was the food and beverage director at Caesar's
Palace.
So turning down all other job offers, I thought I already had the job. Showed up to Caesar's Palace, blown off for the first
interview, second interview, third interview. Finally called down there and said, "Hey ..." Mind you, I had already signed
a lease, turned down all my other jobs for a job I thought I already had. This is my good Aggie story, because of all
people, the restaurant business and Texas A&M generally don't have much tie. So I didn't think that the doors opening
for Ags and that whole story would have any bearing on my career.
Well, as I'm turned down for at least the third, if not the fourth interview for a job I thought I already had, I kind of plead
with the lady and say, "Hey, is there any way I can bring you my resume?" Because at that time, I'm certainly young and
cocky. I'm like, "This is a good resume." I don't even know the job I'm supposed to have. I just thought I had one. She
looks at culinary school, sommelier’s degree, Napa Valley, all this different stuff that should apply to getting the job.
She said, "Oh, you're an Aggie. Cool." Of course, I flashed the ring and said, "Yeah, of course I'm an Aggie," and thinking,
"Sweet." She wasn't an Aggie, but everyone in her family was an Ag. So literally, five minutes after turning me down for
the third interview, hits the intercom and says, "Hey, you ready for this interview?" He's playing Solitaire. My connection
is playing Solitaire and I'm blown off for the third ... Because you weren't supposed to ... That guy had 14,000 employees
or something, so he doesn't hire entry-level guys like me at the time. That was how I got into Caesar's and ...
Jay Socol: So flashy resume, doesn't matter. Aggie ring, that's what gets you in.

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Wade Barkman: Yeah, it's not supposed to do that in food and beverage, because there aren't any Aggies and it's just not business,
engineering, any of the other stuff that A&M absolutely opens doors for, but a restaurant guy, that's not usually how it
works.
Jay Socol: Okay, so your career track between then and now. How did that evolve?
Wade Barkman: Did three years at Caesar's, and then Steve Wynn is one of those guys that, he is the paradigm shift. I don't know how
that town changes so often, it's like ... I assume he still is, but for about 30 years whatever he did, the entire city of Las
Vegas shifted. So when he opened up Bellagio ... He tends to build up properties, sell them, make a ton, sit back, design
a new one, build it, sell it done, or build it up. That's when he was opening the Wynn. He tends to go out and find his top
crew and he pays you more than you should be paid, and everybody jumps and the entire city shifts, and then those jobs
... The reason I call him a shift is he takes the best, moves them over to his new property just like he did at the previous
property, and then everyone shifts around.
So three years at the Wynn, and then told my parents I'd have my first restaurant by 30, and when they remind you that
"by 30" means before you turn 30, you put in your notice and everyone says, "You're leaving the Wynn for where?"
Houston, Dallas, I'm such a hardcore Ag that was a really good excuse to get to come back to College Station, because I
enjoyed it and I don't have any ... It's small enough, but large enough. It's educated, it fits with everything that I'm about.
Jay Socol: So the year is what, and you came back here ...
Wade Barkman: Late 2006.
Jay Socol: In late 2006, you hit the ground in College Station, and then what?
Wade Barkman: Wondered what I was doing, why I did what I just did. But found this location, and looked all over town. In fact, there's
several different spots in town that I had looked at, and then stumbled into this one. This was a very interesting space
because this is the fourth rendition of a restaurant in this space. But the previous three, the first one being the
Confederate House in '83, had a two- to three-year run, a bunch of Aggies. It was a spinoff of a restaurant in Houston,
and they wanted to have a restaurant in College Station. Well, I don't know everything what happened, but too many
chiefs, not enough Indians. Too many owners, nobody pays tends to not make for a successful restaurant, anyway. So
they had a two- to three-year run, went out of business, sat vacant for two to three years, the next place being kind of
questionable as to whether it was here or not. There's certain debate about that.

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Jay Socol: What was it called?
Wade Barkman: What I've heard is it was called Café Domerique. There's a lot of people that say that did not exist, and there are a few
that swear that it did. It was before my time here, and I-
Jay Socol: Maybe it did. I don't remember the name, but maybe it was here. I don't know.
Wade Barkman: Yeah. If I were betting based on just years of people debating that, I think it didn't exist. But man, multiple people said
that it did. If it did, it must've been a very short run. After that, it was Rembrandt's, which a lot of people remember.
Jay Socol: I remember that.
Wade Barkman: Yeah. Two to three-ish. I don't know, it might've been a little bit longer there. Went out of business, sat dead for a little
bit, then a place called The Tavern came in. My understanding, same sort of deal, two- to three-year run. They went out
of business, and then kind of cool for what I came into ... They went out of business in '99, and I signed the lease to take
this over in 2006. So between '99 and 2006, it was like the Titanic at the bottom of the ocean. It's trapped in time
because they literally looks like they closed down one night, locked the doors, killed the power. There's still to-go food
and remnants of, literally, as if, what we see right here, last night locked the doors, done.
Jay Socol: There was no clean up and clean out?
Wade Barkman: Nothing. That was part of taking over, and it was certainly a ... This location has always been kind of interesting because
on a map it's perfect. It's a university address, even though anybody that knows this location, it's really not. It's kind of
sitting on the side street of Tarrow, but proximity to Bryan through 29th Street, Tarrow, to campus ... I'm sorry, to
campus to Highway 6, it's perfectly centrally located. It's close enough to campus but not sitting on top of it, and it's
right near all the restaurants and the hotels, and it's a gorgeous location, building. It hasn't always been that gorgeous,
but ...
Jay Socol: Well, and that's something I want to talk to you about. There's been so much growth around you and so much change
around you, and Chimney Hill was full at some points, and then it wasn't. It's been in a state of decline, but you have
stayed here. I'm guessing you could've picked up and gone anywhere, but you decided to stay in this location. Why did
you stay, even under duress and chaos and all that kind of stuff? Why was it so important to stay right here?

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Wade Barkman: I don't know. You know, this development has always been a very interesting thing because when we signed up in 2006
it was 14 tenants, pretty much full. Then, as they start to drop like flies and not get re-signed ... A lot of them would have
re-leased and re-signed, but didn't and so it's an interesting sign of, hey, it's much easier to just wipe the slate clean if
there's nobody still existing, any existing leases. But I signed up in late 2006 with a 10-year lease, so a five and a five, I
guess, with a five-year option.
Exercised the five-year option, and so then when the owner of the property and the first development team came in,
and it's been an interesting ... We'll just say it's been an interesting ride because the first development team couldn't
really quite get it off the ground, so the property owner got the property back, dealing in foreclosure, but didn't want it
back necessarily. I don't know if I'm speaking for them, but I can certainly read tea leaves.
All the while, I really liked where my future location has always been. It's been about a four-year ... I hate saying debacle,
but it's kind of been a debacle. And loved my location because it's, same reason. The best thing about the new piece of
dirt versus where I'm at now is that everything else still holds true. Close enough, but far enough to campus, on
university, up on a hill. The Hilton is, I think, 13, 14-story building, and we look visually half as high and it's a one-story
building because we're on a hill and they're kind of in a hole.
So just a big fan of the address and the fact that this is ten years of a lot of blood, sweat, and tears. Getting a chance to
move it 400 feet is a very unique thing in the restaurant business. You normally move it to a different part of town,
different city, different state. Moving it 400 feet is truly a recreation, and taking everything that's here and making it
better.
Jay Socol: Before we talk about the new place, for those who may not have experience in this current location, tell people what
this restaurant-
Wade Barkman: Shame on them.
Jay Socol: Exactly. You had 10 years, people.
Wade Barkman: That's right.
Jay Socol: Tell people what this restaurant is all about and what they experience here.

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Wade Barkman: Sure. Coming into this space, as dilapidated as it was, probably where the hostess podium is now via ... There's no power
and there's fly tape, and it's just decayed to say the least. About 15 feet into the restaurant, I say, "Crap, it's a
steakhouse." I said crap because I've never done steakhouses. Anybody who knows me knows that I'm not the biggest
fan of them, certainly 10 years ago. So then I had to say, "Well, staying in business is much more important than ..."
If you want to open a taco shop and there's 80 taco shops, you can still win, but man, it's tougher to get in a fist fight
with 80 people. You're going to be sore. You can still win, but I'd said, "Well, what does the town need? That's more
important to me than ... Give them what they need, and then I get to stay in business and keep playing restaurant and
not have to get a real job." The town needed a fine dining steakhouse, so I said, "Well, seems like a no-brainer. It's
College Station. It's beef country. There's no fine dining steakhouse? Well, I guess we're doing a steakhouse."
Jay Socol: There you go.
Wade Barkman: Then I had to kind of self-analyze and say, "Well, what is it about a steakhouse that you don't like?" Because I like eating
steak and potatoes. I like wine, I like whiskey, I like cocktails. From an operation standpoint, it's a cool, macho, sexy vibe.
But the real reason I've never been a huge fan of typical steakhouses is they're very predictable. Pick a steakhouse in
whatever city and I'll tell you 15 menu items right now. I don't need to know the state or the restaurant, because you go
to a steakhouse, you expect to see wedge lobster, crab cakes, shrimp, steak on a plate, choose your sides, got to have a
baked potato. There's certain things you have to have.
I worked in a steakhouse. I had to pull some shifts at steakhouses in Las Vegas that were not my steakhouses on other
people's days off. I've just never been a fan of them. The reason that this restaurant has turned out like it has is that I
said, "Well, it's a steakhouse so it has to seem like a steakhouse, act like a steakhouse, but how would you do a
steakhouse if you had your way?" I had my way to get to do a steakhouse the way I wish all steakhouses were. Heavy, a
lot of live music, big cocktail scene, tons of wines and gigantic whiskey list at this point.
Jay Socol: That's been a successful formula for ten years.
Wade Barkman: It has.
Jay Socol: But here's the thing. I have to think that the restaurant business is a hard business to be in, probably anywhere, but in
this town it seems to be a hard business to be in. In all the years that you've been in operation there have been, I'm
sure, dozens and dozens of restaurants of different kinds that have come and gone because one or more elements
hasn't worked, hasn't been right.

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Wade Barkman: That's right.
Jay Socol: So what did you get right that's allowed you to be here for 10 years? All the things you just laid out?
Wade Barkman: It's funny. I'm sure there's a ton of people that have said, "Oh, I'd love to do the restaurant business because it's ..." I
don't know what people think it is, but I wouldn't wish this business on anybody because if you want to do it you're
going to do it. I can't imagine doing anything else because to me it's my playground. I get to talk about 400 whiskeys,
700 liquors, 300 different wines, food, booze, design, politics, sports.
It's fascinating to me, and I get to throw a party for a living. But I would not wish this business on anybody because it's
crazy hours. It's incredibly challenging, so if you're not really a jack of all trades, which they say, of course, jack of all
trades, master of none. As far as I'm concerned, you better be a jack of all trades. We joked earlier that HR, the
schmooze, the booze, the wine, the front of the house, back of the house, the top of the house, janitor, landscaper.
Jay Socol: You're everything.
Wade Barkman: If you don't have your hands in all of it, you can still survive. There's tons of people that are much better than I am at
doing that, but this is an operation that has ... You have no management. It's me and the crew. So it's kind of fun
because I joke that we have no management, but we have 25 managers. It's just not their title. It's kind of like
Braveheart going into battle. It's not the best way to run a military. There's a reason that the general goes to the back,
because generally if you're leading the charge you're the first one to get shot. But that's kind of how it's always run here,
so it works so far.
Jay Socol: Okay, so this has been part one of your personal history, how you got here, what this restaurant is all about, how you've
persevered through all the changes around you. So now let's talk about this thing that's starting to jut out of the ground
vertically, I think you said 400 feet away. Is that right?
Wade Barkman: I think so. I've guessed at that. I don't know. I should probably get an accurate number.
Jay Socol: As you and I are talking, the bones are up. We see steel beams, slab's in, parking lot's in. They're working fast, and
fortunately, we've had some good weather days to do it. What is going on 400 feet away, and how is that going to be
different from what you've had for 10 years?

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Wade Barkman: The cool thing about that space is that this is 5,000 square feet, just shy. The new one is 7,800 square feet, but you'll
notice that there'll be a secondary sharing on the same slab. It's a secondary restaurant, so we have two restaurants.
One is The Republic Steakhouse being recreated at 7,800 square feet, and then next door is a place called Primrose Path.
It's essentially a gastro pub wine bar, 1,700 square feet. But two completely different concepts, two completely different
interiors, staff, everything is different, sharing a slab, feeding back and forth, and it's the yin to the yang of The Republic.
Jay Socol: Okay. Well, let's start with The Republic because you've built a loyal following and people know what to expect when
they walk in, both from a physical space standpoint and what to expect on the menu. What's going to be different about
this new space?
Wade Barkman: When given the opportunity to recreate something, it's kind of like me saying, "Hey, I got a plane. Where do you want to
go?" It almost freezes you because you say, "Well, man, there's just a ton of places I want to go." So getting to recreate a
restaurant, you can change anything you want. But in reality, I built this and love this. I'm a huge fan. If I don't enjoy
where I'm at, then my crew won't enjoy where they're at. If we don't enjoy it, how on Earth is a guest expected to enjoy
it?
So I went through a few little renditions of, "How would you change this restaurant?" but kind of listening to the ... We
have some extreme loyal customers. Our regulars, the term "regular" in a restaurant, it depends on your definition. A
regular in Las Vegas is that they come in once a month. If that's a regular, at this restaurant we have 2,000 regulars. Ours
are one to two to three days a week, two to three to four days a month, coming all the time.
So you got to listen to your ... Everyone has input and you need to put it all together, but what a lot of people have said
is, to quote most of them, when you hear it, it's an interesting way. A lot of people have said, "Well, you're not going to
change it, are you?" I'm like, "Well, yeah. Of course I am." But, I think what that sentiment is, they like what they have.
Well, as do I. So it's kind of been a fun thing to take every single little detail of this restaurant, and I'm saying you can't
give me three years to obsess about something and not just ... My wife is a saint, we'll put it that way, and my architect.
But you get to take every single little detail of this restaurant and make it better and improve it and tweak it, and
improve it and tweak it, but stay very true to what we are. It's kind of been fun, because had it been built on time ... It's
only, I think, three years behind ... had it been built on time it would've been very cool. Now, if it's not cool I have no one
to blame at all because it's obsessive to the nth degree.
Jay Socol: So your loyal followers, your loyal customers, they will have something that's familiar to them, makes them feel
comfortable, but it'll be improved upon.

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Wade Barkman: No question.
Jay Socol: Okay.
Wade Barkman: It's kind of like, if you get the 1990 4Runner that I drove in college and then you get the 2018, you would expect it to be
better in every single way. Just like that.
Jay Socol: Fair enough. Okay, tell me more about Primrose Path. What's that experience going to be like, and what's the intent of
that?
Wade Barkman: Primrose Path is kind of a fun thing. It's actually that most of my career before the steakhouse business was what
Primrose Path is, so a lot of Italian, a lot of Spanish, a lot of Southern French, true Mediterranean. Mediterranean kind of
has misperceptions at times that it's ... I think people forget sometimes that Mediterranean, there are about 18
countries on the Mediterranean. But when you have a little bit of tapas influence, a little bit of cicchetti, which
essentially is Italy's version of the same sort of idea of smaller food. I have a ton of background in Italian, again, Spanish,
Moroccan, a little bit of Greek, and a heavy wine and beer focus.
The process of the entire restaurant has been kind of fun because idea of the name, Primrose Path, it's kind of my story
or my path through this business. So the idea of when you go to a restaurant, if it's a wine and beer driven
Mediterranean restaurant, you can go and be super healthy and be light and airy. You can eat a bunch of stuff that you
probably want to eat, a lot more deep, heavy, fried. So you can take your own Primrose Path through the entire concept
and through the entire experience, and it's kind of a nod to my Primrose Path through the restaurant business and, quite
honestly, this development.
Jay Socol: Is it strictly going to be an indoor experience, or are there outdoor elements?
Wade Barkman: There certainly are. What The Republic has never had, intentionally, and the new one has a little bit more but not much,
is steakhouses tend to be very clubby, dark. You don't see outside. I don't want you to see outside. In this one, I don't
have much to see outside, so no natural light. I can't control the natural light, so it wants to be a very clubby steakhouse
environment. Primrose Path is kind of the opposite. It's a lot of glass, a lot of brick, stone, industrial elements with a ton
of divided light that brings in ... It faces the ... What would that be? I guess it faces the east, faces the west. I'm sorry. So
you never get the sun in your face, and it has a pretty cool outdoor little courtyard, so just an outdoor element that
certain times of the year, right now, would be perfect and I'm dreading that soon it will not be perfect.

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Jay Socol: Is there anything about this facility, this building, that you're actually going to miss or that you're going to-
Wade Barkman: Everything.
Jay Socol: ... rip out and take with you?
Wade Barkman: You can repurpose ... I think to answer the question, there's a lot of lights, a lot of the lighting fixtures that there's no
reason to not take them with you. The copper top bar itself will be repurposed, not as a copper top bar at the new one.
It will have, of course, a copper top bar, but that exact copper, there's so many stories in that copper that are stories
long before I ever got here. In my original, I'm glad my gut said, "Don't rip this out," because it seemed like it had a lot of
history in the copper. I met my wife at this bar. I think a lot of people have met their wives in this restaurant. So it has a
lot of history, so I'm too much of ... I don't know. I'm taking a lot of it with me, but if you overdo that it's going to look
like you've repurposed it and it will be repurposed in very clever ways.
Jay Socol: Right. This is not a trick question. It's not a loaded question. It's an honest question.
Wade Barkman: Sure.
Jay Socol: Through all of what you've been through, what has your experience been with the City of College Station from a
development standpoint? Because I don't have to tell you the city sometimes gets the reputation of being difficult to
work with in this respect, so I want to know what has your experience been.
Wade Barkman: You know, the city does get a negative rap, and I'd like to say that mine has been negative. It hasn't. It's been perfect. I
don't know if the stars have just aligned, but in my personal experience, a lot of the people and the powers that be come
here, they like it, I think they want it to stay and they want it to be relocated and they want to make this development a
go. I'd love to tell you some nasty stories about the city, but they've all been really kind of cool because they're fans of
the restaurant. They keep coming in and I think they want to see us succeed. We still have to go through all the same
channels and do all the things that you have to do, but I think this restaurant's good for the community. I think that the
city's looking out for everybody's best interest. Sometimes, just because somebody tells you no, doesn't mean that it
wasn't probably best thing for all parties involved.
Jay Socol: Well, I'm glad to hear it because so far the people I have asked that question to have all said basically what you just said,
that it's been a good experience, the city seems to be working with us, and wants success. So I'm glad to hear you say
that, because you very easily could've told me otherwise.

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Wade Barkman: Sure. You know, I think if you take a conservative approach to making sure ... Having lived in Las Vegas and, fortunately,
leaving as that town really just blew up and not in a healthy way, and then collapsed not in a healthy way, it's smart to
just intentionally, strategically grow and be very conservative about the overall plan. That's been my experience.
Jay Socol: Okay, so your target opening dates for The Republic and Primrose Path.
Wade Barkman: I'm going to be very vague and tell you fall of 2018. The Republic's opening will be preceded by the Primrose Path about
a month later. Whenever we open Republic, Primrose Path will be about a month later. That's going to be in the fall.
Realistically, I don't know exactly what month. I've noticed that you don't get any credit for pinpointing a date, but if
you're two to three months behind on your claim it tends to rile people up. So I'll say fall of 2018.
Jay Socol: Fair enough. Final question. You are a trained executive chef.
Wade Barkman: Sure.
Jay Socol: A lot of years in the business. You run a fantastic operation here. What is your guilty pleasure in terms of food? Do you
run through Taco Bell? Do you run through Long John Silver's? What's your guilty pleasure?
Wade Barkman: Pizza Hut Supreme Pan Pizza, no question.
Jay Socol: That's your go-to.
Wade Barkman: No question. We get to eat anything you want, and sometimes you just want comfort food. Comfort food generally, in
this part of the country and where I grew up, it tends to be certain regional things. Well, comfort food for me is just a
perfectly made pizza. I don't know what it is about ... The camera is watching me say this, but Pizza Hut pan pizza is may
be the best pizza in the world, and I've eaten pizza everywhere. I think that's my answer.
Jay Socol: That's the most passionate you've been over the past 30 minutes.
Wade Barkman: I did light up a little bit. I'm thinking about it. I'm getting hungry.
Jay Socol: Wade, thanks for talking with me.
Wade Barkman: Absolutely. It's been a pleasure. Thank you.

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Jay Socol: That'll do it with Wade Barkman and this edition of “Is This a Thing?” Thanks very much for listening. I'm Jay Socol. See
you next time.
Just two guys, sitting in a dark restaurant.
Wade Barkman: Talking about whiskey.
Jay Socol: Right.