Iceland has become a popular cruise destination in recent years, with ships visiting ports like Reykjavik, Grundarfjordur, and Akureyri. Cruise lines have capitalized on Iceland's volcanoes and unique culture by offering tours to volcanic sites and of the capital city of Reykjavik. The city offers many museums, geothermal pools, and opportunities to sample Icelandic cuisine like puffin and whale. Day trips from Reykjavik provide opportunities to see stunning natural scenery in places like the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and experience the island's history.
1. Spring 2011 I world of cruising 81
DESTINATION FOCUS
Richard Partridge
investigates one of cruising’s
growing niche calls, the
surprising country of Iceland
F
or those of a religious disposition,
“BC” defines the period before
Christ; yet, for some Icelanders, the
term now also refers to “Before the
Crash” when the country was recognised
for its prosperous and stable economy, as
well as its explosive volcanoes.
We need no reminder that the volca-
noes remain explosive but, after the finan-
cial crash of 2008 and with the economy
in freefall, Icelanders have had a financial
reality check. The tourism industry has
helped to provide a safety net with cruise
ships bringing in a regular influx of visitors.
Indeed, last year’s eruption of Eyjafjal-
lajokull increased interest in the island and
cruise visits were up again in 2010 with
ships visiting Reykjavik, Hafnarfjordur,
Grundarfjordur, Isafjordur and Akureyri,
the capital of the north.
Swan Hellenic capitalised by introducing
its ‘Sagas of Ice and Fire’ voyage, complete
with lectures from expert vulcanologists and
tours to the erupting volcano. Seabourn,
P&O, Page & Moy and Saga – among oth-
ers – all included stops in Iceland as part of
itineraries in northern waters.
The simple fact is there are a great va-
riety of tours and activities and a wonder-
fully edgy capital city to browse.
The country’s isolation has always been
one of the attractions, with a unique and
unpolluted culture, well worth investigat-
ing even if just for a day or two from a
ship or, perhaps, as a stop off on-route to
another destination .
For visitors disembarking at REYKJAVIK
itself, one of the things that strikes you first is
this is a small capital city. That it is spacious-
ly spread out over a rocky peninsular fails
to disguise the fact. You can walk from one
side to the other in little more than an hour.
It exudes a great sense of openness
and space, allowing plenty of legroom for
its 200,0000 residents. The architecture
is a recipe of Icelandic and Scandinavian
design and the many excellent cafes, bars
and restaurants often reflect the culture
and difference of being here.
A good place to start, whether walking
or not, is The Pearl, a Star Trek-like dome
on the edge of town that has a viewing
platform and revolving restaurant over-
looking the cityscape. An even more birds-
eye view can be had from the bell tower of
the Hallgrimskirkja church, situated on the
highest point in city centre.
Feeling hungry? Well, there is some-
thing for everyone, with an eclectic
selection including pizza joints, Italian res-
taurants and even a new Indian establish-
ment called Ghandi. However, you are in
Iceland and there are plenty of restaurants
featuring Icelandic food.
So, if you wish to dine on seal, puf-
fin or whale, why not try 3 Frakkar
(www.3frakkar.com) where local speciali-
ties abound? If you prefer the best steak in
town, visit the Hereford Steakhouse (www.
hereford.is). Do try the traditional dish
plokkfiskur, which is a variation on mashed
haddock and potato served with rye bread.
Other specialities include smoked
lamb, fish balls and salted cod steaks.
Land of Ice and Fire
2. 82 world of cruising I Spring 2011
DESTINATION focus
Admittedly, eating out is not cheap but the
prices compare favourably with nearby
Scandinavia, with main courses in mid-
range restaurants at around £15 and a beer
coming at around £5 a pint. And, remem-
ber, this is the fuel that fed the Vikings, so
be careful not to overdo it!
If you plan a full day in Reykjavik, a
wise investmest is the Welcome Card (£7
for 24hrs), which includes free bus and
ferry transport, as well as entry to all muse-
ums and even seven municipal pools and
spas in the centre of the city.
Laugardalslaug is a great place to enjoy
Iceland’s geothermal waters. This spacious
outdoor complex has several large swim-
ming pools, hot tubs, steam rooms and a
bewildering variety of jacuzzis.
Admission is included with the
Welcome Card but it’s remarkable value
at £1.50 if you pay separately. Iceland’s
geothermal pools and spas are a national
obsession , a place to meet friends and
wind down after work, akin to the British
pub – only slightly healthier.
Available as a day tour is The Blue
Lagoon, Iceland’s most prestigious spa
complex. Here you can indulge in luxury
pampering, mud baths and massages and
even buy products to take home from the
gift shop (www.bluelagoon.com).
Of the museums, the newly renovated
National Museum of Iceland details the
history 9th century Viking settlement to the
modern day. It is highly informative and
also has an excellent café and bookshop.
For art lovers, the excellent Reykjavik Art
Museum houses collections from much-
loved painters Johannes S Kjarval and Erro.
For the more adventurous, there are a
variety of fascinating circular day trips,
including the highly recommended trip
around Snaefellsnes National Park via
Grundarfjordur. Many believe this area be
one of the earth’s seven energy spots and,
in Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the
Earth, the protagonists entered through the
glacier-capped mountain of Snaefellsjokull.
Described by Bjorn Palmarsson,
Major of Grundafjordur, as ‘Iceland in a
Nutshell,’ the peninsula encapsulates the
country with its spectacular glacier, basalt
column formations, ancient volcano at
Saxholl and the magical, pebbled beach at
Djupalonssandur.
It is impossible to put away your
camera on the journey through this inspir-
ing and surreal vista. The colours of the
mountains, lava fields and lakes seem to
constantly change and amaze under the
sweeping landscapes. Nature begins to to-
tally overwhelm you. A stop at the famous
Fjoruhusio (Beach House) café in the fish-
ing village of Hellnar is then a renowned
spot to view passing whales.
This tour can be done as a 10-hour day-
trip from Reykjavik or with an overnight
stay at the Hotel Framnes in Grundarfjor-
dur, owned and run by the irrepressible
Shelagh Smith, who also acts for the Port
of Grundarfjordur itself, which is beginning
to see more cruise visits each year.
A shorter option is the Golden Circle
tour, a 6-hour trip visiting Pingvellir
National Park for the Gullfoss waterfalls
and hot springs at Geysir and Strokkur.
Just 10km from Reykjavik is the town of
Hafnarfjordur, where some ships also
stop, and you can get a taste of Viking past
in their quirky museum
Many companies also run Whale and
Puffin-watching tours, as the waters around
Iceland have large populations of Hump-
back and Minke whales, as well as dolphins
and porpoises. Occasionally, the conten-
tious issue of whale-hunting is brought
up, but it’s best to avoid confrontation as
Icelanders believe strongly in their rights to
hunt a certain number of whales per year
(for scientific purposes, as they insist).
However, this is still a great and fas-
cinating country that leaves an indelible
impression on visitors; the tours are excel-
lent and well run and the people polite
and friendly. Whether you’re a believer or
not, some would say visiting Iceland is not
far from being a religious experience in its
own right.
MORE INFO: For further information,
contact the Reykjavik Tourist
Information Centre, tel. 00 354
590 1550 or www.visitreykjavik.is.
Excursions from: Iceland Excursions
(www.grayline.is) or 00 354 540 1313;
Special Tours (www.specialtours.is)
or 00 354 892 0099; Iceland Travel
(www.icelandtravel.is) or
00 354 585 4300.
Iceland FACTFILE