1. The woman discovered tango in Canada in the early 1990s and was instantly hooked by the thrill of dancing, but it was not until she rediscovered it in London 10 years later that her passion for tango truly began. 2. She traveled to Buenos Aires, Argentina where tango originated to immerse herself in the tango culture, regularly attending milongas and taking private lessons to improve. She fell in love with Buenos Aires and decided to spend a year living there. 3. Now at age 38, tango has become her obsession and she regularly travels between London and Buenos Aires to indulge her passion, attending milongas, taking lessons, and embracing the tango lifestyle, despite the

1. Seduced by
the passion
of tango
GH FEBRUARY 2006 www.goodhousekeeping.co.uk
Real lives
35
CONTINUED OVER PAGE
It’s hard to imagine a dance, even one of the most
erotic, could become an obsession. But tango has
taken over Julie-Anne Cosgrove’s life – it has her in
its grip, and she’ll travel 6,000 miles to feel the thrill
Sometimes it seems obscene that a man I barely
know is holding me in such an intimate way in a
room full of people, the walls lined with onlookers.
But that’s how it is with Argentine tango – the man
embraces you so that you’re heart to heart. There’s
a magic in surrendering to his lead, allowing your
body to respond, dancing steps you didn’t even know
existed. It casts a spell that keeps drawing me back
to Buenos Aires, to the land where tango began.
But it was in Canada, not Argentina, that I first
discovered tango, when I was working in Toronto in
the early 1990s. A friend invited me to take some
group lessons with him. He had bruises where
some of the women had flicked their heels against
his shins by accident and I think he was hoping I’d
know where to put my feet. The classes were taught
by the cast of a touring show from Argentina, and I
danced with one of the performers. I never forgot
that thrill, although it wasn’t until 10 years later in
London that I rediscovered my passion for tango.
Soon I was dancing four or five nights a week at
various milongas (tango dance events). After two
years, it was time to make the pilgrimage to Buenos
Aires. The whole tango culture sounded so mysteri-
ous, and I wanted to experience it for myself. So I took
a three-week holiday with two friends, staying in a
tango guest house. My friends had been before, so
they knew the ropes. We went dancing every night
from midnight until 4 or 5am, and I came home ex-
hausted, with sore feet and a twitching eye. I had a
fantastic time, but I wasn’t yet addicted. All that
changed when I returned to London. The more my
tango improved with private lessons, the more I
yearned to dance with partners who were really good.
So the next year, I returned to Buenos Aires on
my own for six weeks, and it was during this trip
that I really fell in love with the city and its tango. I
began hatching a plan to spend a year in the city.
Two of my tango friends were living there – we’d all
been students of the same teacher in London – and
they were a bad influence! I thought, if they can
live here, why can’t I? They suggested I let my return
ticket go, and simply stay on, but I had plans to
make – mainly re-mortgaging my flat. Even though
it’s quite cheap for Europeans to live in Argentina, I
wantedtorentanapartmenton myown,whichwould
cost around £300 a month, and, more importantly, to
pay for private tango lessons.
I decided that, even though I’d always have a life in
London, I’d try to spend as much time as possible in
Argentina. I’ve been freelancing for magazines for
almost seven years and have discovered the joys of
‘There’s a
magic in
allowing
your body
to respond,
dancing
steps you
didn’t know
existed’
Julie-Anne: ‘Tango gives
you the opportunity to
indulge your feminine side’

2. www.goodhousekeeping.co.uk GH FEBRUARY 2006
Real lives
36
working hardfor six months, then rewarding myself
with a few months off.
I couldn’t afford rent in Buenos Aires as well as a
mortgage here, though, so I started letting out my
London flat. This means when I’m back in England,
I either have to rent somewhere short term or stay
with my friends or parents, who are incredibly sup-
portive. I must admit the novelty of moving around so
much is wearing off! I’ve lived in some grim places,
too, to save money. There was the bedsit in London
that was so small I could reach into the fridge from
my bed, and so cold in winter I had to sleep in a
woolly hat. Sometimes I think I must be mad. But
when I’m in Buenos Aires, exploring the tree-lined
cobbled streets, sitting in a café with tango music
crackling from the speakers or dancing with one of my
favourite old guys (they’re the best – the ones who’ve
danced all their lives), it’s undeniably worth it.
During my year there, I’d go once or twice a week
to a traditional afternoon milonga. My favourite is
Club Español, with its beautiful wooden dance floor
and elaborate gilt ceiling. I arrive at around 4 or 5pm,
and step inside the antique golden elevator, ready
to be transported to another world. The thrill of
hearing the music growinglouder,thecloser
I get, never fades. The waitress kisses me
(customary everywhere you go in Buenos
Aires) and leads me to my table. Here, as is often
the case, the women are seated separately from
the men. I can barely get my shoes on quickly
enough before I start looking out for someone to
dance with. If you go somewhere regularly, you
build up a sort of clientele. If I’m lucky, I’ll manage
to make eye contact with Rene, my favourite. He’s
60-something and has a way of dancing that seems
to ooze the music through my feet.
I have to be diplomatic, though. I’ve argued with
boyfriends in the past because I’ve danced with
someone else before dancing with them. And the
jealousy runs both ways – it’s not unheard of for me
to ask them, “So, who exactly is the woman with
long hair I saw you dancing with three times?”
The eye-contact system is a selling point of danc-
ing in Buenos Aires. The men don’t walk across the
room and ask the women to dance as they do in
London, but instead invite you with a mere nod of
the head. It’s like having your own personal auction
going on, and you accept the highest bid. Nod back,
stand up and wait for the man to come to you for a
“yes”. And if you’re being ogled by someone you
know will throw you around like a vacuum cleaner,
or subject you to the “dinner dance shuffle”, you
simply look the other way. It’s marvellous. I’ve got
bunions from practising ballet as a teenager, so I hate
to waste mileage on someone who can’t dance.
This system has done wonders for my confidence
with men, as you have to look back at them or you’d
never dance. This seemed brazen at first, but I enjoy
it now. Tango certainly gives you the opportunity
to indulge your feminine side. It’s wonderful to dress
up whenever you feel like it and fascinating to see
the effect it can have. If you turn up wearing a black
satin skirt split to the waist, you’ll be in constant
demand to dance – I know, I’ve tried it.
Not that a woman needs to wear a
pencil skirt to attract attention in Buenos
Aires. You find yourself in a world where
people want to engage in conversation.
I love it. Taxi drivers comment on the
colour of your eyes, the ice-cream man
pulls out a chair for you to sit down for a
chat, and the woman in the launderette
you’ve been to only once leaps out on
Good Friday to hug you and wish you a
Happy Easter. My days there were filled with
tango lessons, learning Spanish and teach-
ing English to a handful of private students,
who were a delight.
Another trip to Buenos Aires is now on the
horizon. I can’t re-mortgage my flat again, so
I’ve been saving frantically and I’ll just have to
work more while I’m there. I like the freedom
and adventure. Being far away, I can connect
more closely with who I am and what I really
want to do. The other day, my mum asked me
when I was going to settle down. Fair question,
considering I’m 38 and have always been a bit
of a nomad. Simple answer: when I’m ready
and not before. But wherever I end up, I don’t
think I could live without tango.
1Your feminine side will
flourish as you learn the art
of following. Enjoy not being in
control for a change.
2You’ll develop trust by
putting yourself in the arms
of complete strangers.
3Men will shower you with
compliments. This is brilliant
for your self-confidence.
4You don’t have to take many
classes before you can get
out there and dance. Once you’ve
gone for a spin with someone
good, you’ll be hooked.
5It’s exercise in disguise. You
may be dancing backwards
in high heels, but you’re toning
your body and getting a great
workout – expect to burn around
200 calories an hour.
6You can be as glamorous
or outrageous as you like. It’s
the perfect excuse to stick a
flower in your hair or wear an itsy
bitsy crocheted top if you fancy it.
7You’ll learn not to judge
by appearances. It might
be the 80-year-old who makes
your day with the way he
expresses himself to the music.
8A ready-made social life
awaits. Wherever you are in
the world, you can show up on
your own at a milonga and have
a great time, watching and
chatting as well as dancing.
■ For more information, visit
www.takes22tango.co.uk, which
lists London tango clubs and
has links to other tango
websites around the country.
‘Now, I
connect
more closely
with who
I am and
what I really
want to do’
‘Men invite you to dance
by making eye contact’
1Your feminine side will
8 Words:Julie-AnneCosgrove.Photographs:Vizzotto.Hair:ZaturnoatVol.3.WiththankstoDanielRodriguez
andBarSur,SanTelmo,BuenosAires(00541143626086;www.bar-sur.com.ar)
reasons to take up tango
www.goodhousekeeping.co.uk
hearing the music growinglouder,thecloser
I get, never fades. The waitress kisses me
(customary everywhere you go in Buenos
demand to dance – I know, I’ve tried it.
pencil skirt to attract attention in Buenos
Aires. You find yourself in a world where
people want to engage in conversation.
I love it. Taxi drivers comment on the
colour of your eyes, the ice-cream man
pulls out a chair for you to sit down for a
chat, and the woman in the launderette
you’ve been to only once leaps out on
Good Friday to hug you and wish you a
Happy Easter. My days there were filled with
tango lessons, learning Spanish and teach-
ing English to a handful of private students,
who were a delight.
Another trip to Buenos Aires is now on the
horizon. I can’t re-mortgage my flat again, so
I’ve been saving frantically and I’ll just have to
work more while I’m there. I like the freedom
and adventure. Being far away, I can connect
more closely with who I am and what I really
want to do. The other day, my mum asked me
when I was going to settle down. Fair question,
considering I’m 38 and have always been a bit
of a nomad. Simple answer: when I’m ready
and not before. But wherever I end up, I don’t
think I could live without tango.
or outrageous as you like. It’s
flower in your hair or wear an itsy
bitsy crocheted top if you fancy it.
Wherever you are in
your own at a milonga and have
www.takes22tango.co.uk, which
reasons to take up tango