SlideShare a Scribd company logo
1 of 104
Download to read offline
An archaeological study of the
Lookout Posts of the Irish
Coastwatching Service 1939-1945
Author : Glynis Ryan
The thesis is submitted to University College Dublin in part
fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of
archaeology.
School of Archaeology
Supervisor : Dr. Graeme Warren
August 2014
i
Table of Contents
Appendices......................................................................................................................................... ii
List of Abreviations............................................................................................................................ iii
Acknowledgements........................................................................................................................... iv
Abstract:............................................................................................................................................. v
Chapter 1. Introduction:....................................................................................................................1
1.1 The Defence of Britain Project and associated research. ........................................................2
1.1.2 Schofield’s Research Agenda for Britains Military Heritage..............................................3
1.2 This Project...............................................................................................................................4
1.2.1 Methodology.....................................................................................................................4
1.3 The potential within the archaeology:.....................................................................................5
Chapter 2 Historical Background......................................................................................................7
2.1 The establishment of Ireland’s “Marine and Coast-Watching Service”...................................9
2.2. Lookout Post Hut Construction.............................................................................................11
2.3 Aerial EIRE Signs .....................................................................................................................15
Chapter 3. The archaeology ...........................................................................................................17
3.1. Field Surveys..........................................................................................................................17
3.3. Analysis of data generated by field survey. ..........................................................................20
3.3.1. Conservation ..................................................................................................................21
3.3.2 Orientation and fields of vision......................................................................................21
Chapter 4 :Discussion.......................................................................................................................23
4.1 Lookout Post huts..................................................................................................................23
4.2. Aerial EIRE signs ....................................................................................................................28
4.3. Other buildings of the Emergency Defence Plan. ................................................................32
4.3.1 Pillbox and LOP Comparison ...........................................................................................33
C hapter 5 – Wicklow Head Case Study ...........................................................................................37
5.1. The aerial EIRE sign at Wicklow Head. ..................................................................................42
5.2. Wicklow Town’s Heritage......................................................................................................44
Chapter 6 - Conclusion:....................................................................................................................47
Bibliography .....................................................................................................................................51
ii
Appendices
Appendix 1 Letter from Office of Research Ethics re: HS-14-Ryan-Warren 53
Appendix 2 Record Sheet - LOP 6 - Howth, Co. Dublin 55
Appendix 3 Record Sheet – LOP 7- Dalkey, Co. Dublin 57
Appendix 4 Record Sheet – LOP 8- Bray, Co. Wicklow 59
Appendix 5 Record Sheet – LOP 9- Wicklow Head, Co. Wicklow 62
Appendix 6 Record Sheet – LOP 10- Kilmichael, Co. Wexford 64
Appendix 7 Record Sheet – LOP 11- Cahore, Co. Wexford 67
Appendix 8 Record Sheet – LOP 12- Ballyconnigar Hill, Co. Wexford 69
Appendix 9 Record Sheet- LOP 13- Greenore Point, Co. Wexford 71
Appendix 10 Record Sheet- LOP 14- Carnsore Point, Co. Wexford 73
Appendix 11 Record Sheet-LOP 15- Forlorn Point, Co. Wexford 75
Appendix 12 Record Sheet-LOP 63- Benwee Head, Co. Mayo 77
Appendix 13 Record Sheet-LOP 64- Downpatrick Head, Co. Mayo 79
Appendix 14 Record Sheet-LOP 65- Kilcummen, Co. Mayo 81
Appendix 15 Record Sheet-LOP 66- Lenadoon, Co. Sligo 83
Appendix 16 Record Sheet-LOP 67- Aughris, Co. Sligo 85
Appendix 17 Record Sheet-LOP 68- Rosskeeragh, Co. Sligo 87
Appendix 18 Record Sheet-LOP 69- Mullaghmore, Co. Sligo 89
Appendix 19 Record Sheet-LOP 70- St. Johns Point, Co. Donegal 92
Appendix 20 Record Sheet-LOP 71- Carrigan Head, Co. Donegal 94
Appendix 21 Record Sheet-LOP72- Rossan Point, Co. Donegal 96
iii
List of Abreviations
LOP Lookout Post
MA Military Archives
G2 Irish Military Intelligence
LDF Local Defence Force
LSF Local Security Force
CBA Council For British Archaeology
EDP Emergency Defence Plan
iv
Acknowledgements
Sincere thanks to my ever-patient supervisor, Dr. Graeme Warren for everything. For
initially agreeing to “take me on”, for his encouragement, support, guidance and most of
all, his all-round pleasantness in helping me produce this thesis.
I am also greatly indebted to Dr. Robert Sands for providing technical expertise in the
production of this thesis.
Thanks also to Professor Seamus Caulfield for his comments on the Downpatrick Lookout
and for sharing his experience of excavating the Downpatrick EIRE sign. Also my
Wicklow Town informant who unfortunately must remain anonymous.
My heartfelt thanks also to my husband John for accompanying me on so many field trips,
for battling the nettles, carrying the ranging rods and making me smile.
Thanks also to my son Conor for proof-reading, editing and providing the missing word
that was always on the tip of my tongue!
Finally thanks also to my many other field trip companions, my daughter Jennifer, my
friends Joan and Marion and my cousin Sheila. Last but not least thanks to my sister
Patricia who welcomed me into her home for my West Coast surveys and tackled the wild
west coastline with me in the name of archaeology. Thanks to you all!
v
Abstract:
The outbreak of World War 2 occurred at a pivotal time in Ireland’s transition from
dominion state to autonomous nation. As an emerging nation which for hundreds of years
had been reliant (albeit reluctantly) on a world super-power for protection, Ireland found
herself politically isolated and geographically situated in the middle of what was to
become a world-wide conflict.
In a highly controversial decision, Head of Government Eamonn DeValera opted to remain
neutral, a decision which was to govern the foreign and domestic policies of Ireland for the
duration of the war.
This thesis is an investigation into one aspect of the physical manifestation of this
decision. As part of the Emergency Defence Plan, “The Irish Marine and Coastwatching
Service” was founded. This service operated from 82 hastily constructed Lookout huts
constructed 5 to 15 miles apart along 1,970 miles of coastline. They were manned by
Defence personnel and volunteers from the local communities 24 hours a day, seven days a
week for the duration of the war, their purpose being to observe and report to army district
command headquarters on the aerial and shipping activity on the State’s coastline and
provide advance warning of any threatened incursion of Irish neutrality.
They were Ireland’s first line of defence in what became a monumental world-wide
conflict and as such are an important part of Irelands built heritage, however they remain
largely ignored and unappreciated; their contribution to Ireland’s narrative in the most part
unknown. They enjoy no protection from the State and are slowly disappearing from our
landscape. The aim of this project is to create an archaeological photographic record of a
sample of these buildings and their associated features. It will record their position and
orientation, assess their current state of preservation and in combination with an interview
with a person who has first hand memories of these buildings (from the community of
Wicklow Town), it will seek to compare these memories with both the archaeological
evidence and the historical record. Finally a discussion of the project findings will
highlight the urgent need for recognition of these buildings by the state heritage sector and
vi
an even greater need for more archaeological investigation which includes accessing and
recording the thoughts of the war-time generation, a now time-sensitive resource.
1
Chapter 1. Introduction:
During the six years it unfolded, World War 2 killed in excess of 60 million people. It
wiped cities and towns off the face of the earth, changed country’s boundaries and caused
the voluntary and involuntary displacement of entire populations (Moshenska 2012,1). As
may be expected, much has been written and continues to be written on the why, how,
where and when of such a conflict and historians have a vast array of archival evidence
from which to form an opinion. However, there is another perspective that must be
considered if future generations are to be presented with a more rounded account. The
physical remnants of structures or artefacts from the era tell their own story and an
archaeological approach to their interpretation holds the potential of revealing to a much
greater extent, the human experience of involvement in this conflict. ‘Involvement’ took
many forms and whilst for some countries this meant that their armed forces were engaged
in overt combat and their territories were turned into battlefields, for others it meant
providing manpower and resources from afar to support their chosen side.
The belligerent camps were represented by the Allies on one side and the Axis forces on
the other. For obvious reasons historians of this time have concentrated on these two
groups however there was a third group whose involvement, while passive, ultimately
proved substantial. This group consisted of five countries who declared their ‘neutrality’ –
Ireland, Sweden, Switzerland, Portugal and Spain. ‘Neutrality’ was not “non-
involvement’ but rather a form of involvement which, in trying to protect and preserve its
own structural integrity, strove to be of no help or hindrance to either side in the conflict.
The reasons behind the ‘neutrality’ decision differed for each country and ranged from
geographical location to a historic tradition of non-alignment, however in each case this
passive involvement took both effort and resources. Clair Wills, exploring the social
experience of being a ‘neutral’ state describes it as “a ghostly existence” being both in and
outside the war, of being on “the edge of total war and responding to chains of events
outside its control”(2008,11). This thesis will seek to reveal, through the discipline of
archaeology, one such response.
Focusing on the extensive network of 82 Coast-Watching Lookout Posts (LOPs) that were
hurriedly constructed at the beginning of the war, the structures will initially be sited
2
within their historic context, their role elucidated and their success or otherwise in
fulfilling this role outlined.
Schofield maintains that “the immediacy and the relevance of twentieth century war” has
fuelled a public desire for more information on the “impact of warfare and militarisation
on society” and that furthermore “People want to visit the remaining structures, they have
an interest and that interest is burgeoning” (2004, 2). The Lookout Post sites of the Irish
Marine and Coastwatching Service are a physical example of Ireland’s political ideology
during the wartime years however to a large extent they have been allowed to disappear
from the historical narrative. They are not protected and so do not benefit from the public
exposure such protection brings and their function and history exists only in the awareness
of a few.
Schofield says of military sites that they are important “for reasons of memory,
commemoration and sense of place” and that both archaeology and historical research “can
contribute much to understanding – and thus to commemorating and remembering –
twentieth century warfare, and hopefully learning lessons from it” (2004, 2). Ireland’s
LOP sites hold just such a possibility. Given the widespread nature of their locations, their
potential for contributing to local cultural heritages is substantial. The LOP huts were
manned by local people with local lives, agendas and beliefs and the record of how they
experienced the war, what they thought important enough to report and how they engaged
with their role of ‘national frontline defender’ is arguably reflective of wider societal
ideology. However they are becoming an endangered resource, vulnerable to both the
passage of time and the march of progress and thus a pro-active conservation and/or
recording agenda is now urgently required.
1.1 The Defence of Britain Project and associated research.
Recognising the need to record the 20th
century militarised landscape in Britain, the
Council for British Archaeology (CBA) spearheaded a drive to record all military sites
built around Britain during the 20th
century. The research was carried out between April
1995 and December 2001 and resulted in a database that consisted of more than 20,000
records collected by a volunteer force of 600 people undertaking field and documentary
work. This database formed the basis of what became The Defence of Britain Project, the
3
purpose of which was to “inform the responsible heritage agencies at both local and
national level with a view to the future preservation of surviving structures” (Defence of
Britain Project).
In 2002, using the records generated by this project, English Heritage went on to undertake
a specific study of the anti-invasion defence structures that were built in England during
World War 2, maintaining that “these places have particular relevance for understanding
the logic of defence and its impact upon the pre-war landscape” (www.english-
heritage.org.uk) and two years later Schofield suggested the agenda hereunder as a
continuing strategy to “priorities and focus research into recent military heritage” (2004,
37).
1.1.2 Schofield’s Research Agenda for Britains Military Heritage
a) Improve understanding of built resource: To continue to investigate what was
built, where and when, and what form the sites took, using appropriate sources (eg
documents, field remains, aerial photography).
b) Improve understanding of the surviving resources: To continue the process of
researching and documenting the surviving remains of sites and monuments of this
period, whether through aerial, geophysical, remote sensing or field survey
(including submerged environments), and at a national, regional or local scale.
c) Pressures and Perceptions: Determining and assessing the various pressures that
affect twentieth-century military remains, and changing perceptions of them.
d) Methodologies : to explore new approaches to modern military heritage and to
ensure its integration with other related agenda, such as sustainability, social
inclusion and the related fields of philosophy, sociology, geography and
archaeology.
e) Management principles and frameworks: Ensuring appropriate and effective
measures and procedures are in place to preserve and manage twentieth century
military resources alongside those of the more distant past.
f) Articulation, co-ordination and publication: Co-ordinating the objectives and
aspirations of the many groups, individuals and specialised archaeological
organisations and agencies who seek to develop an understanding of the scale and
logic of militarisation in Britain throughout the twentieth century, for the purposes
4
of better working practices, and improved understanding and awareness. This
should be achieved through cooperation and networking, the university sector and
voluntary and local organisation being key players.
Ireland to-date, has had limited archaeological research work carried out into it’s World
War 2 built military heritage (Geraldine Stout’s work on the WW2 pillboxes of the Boyne
Valley a notable exception (Stout 2002)) and whilst the history of the Irish Marine and
Coast-watching Service has been explored by Michael Kennedy in his book “Guarding
Neutral Ireland: The Coast Watching Service and Military Intelligence 1939-1945”
(Kennedy 2008), the LOP sites have not been investigated archaeologically,despite the fact
that they date to the very birth of the nation and are connected to the first major
‘international’ decision made by the fledgling state. The multi-disciplined, integrated
approach to 20th
century military heritage, so much a feature of the British agenda (as
demonstrated above) is arguably lacking in the Irish context.
Thus though the scale of this current project is but a fraction of the Defence of Britain
Project, it is envisioned as a very early step into the eventual recording of independent
Irelands’ entire 20th
century militarised landscape which should then be brought to the
attention of those charged with protection of the State’s cultural heritage.
1.2 This Project
The main objective of this thesis is to produce a baseline, point-in-time record of the
aspect, orientation and level of conservation of twenty of the subject sites and a framework
for the future recording of the remaining 62.
1.2.1 Methodology
In the spirit of the methodology suggested by Schofield in his agenda above, a multi-
disciplined approach will be employed in producing the archaeological record which is the
subject of this project. It will be created by a systematic photographic and observational
survey of ten sites on the east coast and ten on the west coast, with the level of
conservation established by reference to a pre-determined scale. An important element of
the survey is the recording of the orientation of each LOP which will facilitate the creation
of a graphic showing the theoretical field of vision of the subject LOPs in unison.
5
The historic setting of the project will be established by exploring the primary source
documents from the ‘Emergency Period’ which are held within the Irish Military Archives
and include the correspondence of the Department of Defence, the correspondence of G2
(Irish Military Intelligence) and the Log books of the LOPs which are the subject of this
project.
Additionally, the findings of an in-depth case study of the post at Wicklow Head that will
include the personal memories, knowledge and folklore of a contemporary witness, will be
documented, providing a social perspective of the site and a verbal archive for comparison
with both the historic military data and the archaeological evidence.
A necessary step within this methodology, and one not usually associated with
archaeological research, concerns the protection of the material witness. For the sake of
good order, ethical clearance has been sought from the Research Ethics Department of
University College Dublin, in order to carry out the aforementioned interview. Following
a robust clearance process which included the pre-clearance of interview questions and the
written assurance that the witness should not be identified, Ethical Clearance was granted
under Reference No. HS-14-34-Ryan-Warren (appendix 1) and any contribution made by
this witness will be cited within this thesis as “Informant 1” .
An additional resource to the verbal archive will be the thoughts of Professor of
archaeology, Seamus Caulfield who at the present time is excavating the aerial EIRE sign
at Downpatrick Head and has agreed to a discussion on the project.
Analysis of the field survey data will compare the results from the east and west coasts and
offer an interpretation of any findings thus endeavouring to expose what Schofield terms
the “human condition, social context and experience” (2005,80) of those who built,
inhabited and lived with these structures and in doing so, demonstrate the hidden ideology
of these sites, above and beyond their original purpose.
1.3 The potential within the archaeology:
Moshenska, commenting on the archaeology of the second world war in Britain, says “The
archaeology and the records of those remains will serve as a testimony to the wartime
generation long after they have passed; the duty of archaeologists is to bring the traces of
the Second World War to life again to illuminate the lives and experiences of the people
who worked, fought and died among them”(2012,xiii). Though thankfully the Irish Coast-
6
watching service was spared the trauma of “fighting and dying” in the course of their duty,
they were part of the Irish “wartime generation” and their work provided them with
ringside seats to the war as it unfolded in the skies and oceans surrounding Ireland
(Kennedy 2008,13). Furthermore the work that they carried out from these Lookout Post
sites, in part “underpinned the defence of neutral Ireland” (Kennedy 2008, 13) and when
considered retrospectively “shows how the parameters of neutrality were re-negotiated
during the course of the war” (Kennedy 2008, 310).
They and the accoutrements of their wartime existence are therefore, worthy
representatives of Ireland’s wartime experience.
7
Chapter 2 Historical Background
Whilst each of the neutral countries had their own reasons for declaring neutrality, in
Ireland’s case the reasons were complex and extended far beyond the concerns of political
power and government. Thus to understand ‘neutrality’ from the Irish perspective and
consequently understand the material culture of this period it is necessary to cite the
archaeology within its historic context.
The twenty three years prior to the outbreak of war had seen Ireland grapple with the
tantalisingly close but elusive concept of independence. The many centuries of resistance
to British rule which had culminated with the 1916 republican rising had been followed by
the War of Independence resulting in the Anglo-Irish Treaty of 1921. This treaty, apart
from partitioning the island into the Irish Free State and the six counties of Northern
Ireland under complete British rule, gave the Irish Free State ‘dominion’ status and
crucially allowed the British to retain control of the three ports of Lough Swilly,
Berehaven and Queenstown and “the right to any other Irish bases they might desire in
time of war”(Dwyer 2009,1). It also split the population into pro-treaty and anti-treaty
camps leading to the Civil war of 1922-23. Republican leader and anti-treaty proponent
Eamonn DeValera split from Sinn Fein in 1926 and formed the new Fianna Fail party
before finally coming to power in 1932. The following years saw DeValera slowly chip
away at the established norms of a dominion state by abolishing the Oath of Allegiance,
ending the payment of land annuities and instigating the Irish Nationality and Citizenship
Act of 1935 (Ferriter, 2007,123) however, it was with the ratification of Bunreacht Na
hEireann in 1937 that Ireland finally struck out as an independent country of Europe with
its own laws and institutions, independent of any other jurisdiction.
The following year DeValera finally got back the treaty ports of Loughswilly, Berehaven
and Queenstown, a move that was to prove of crucial importance to the decisions that were
to follow when War was declared, just one year later. Described by Churchill as “Sentinel
Towers of Western Approaches”(quoted in O’Carroll 1986, 10), DeValera referred to the
ports as “not only a symbol of independence but an establishment of independence”
(O’Carroll 1986,10) thus the events of the era assigned a lasting geopolitical framework
with which to interpret the wider significance of relatively simple structures. This
assignment of political significance and symbolism would prove to be as true of the
Lookout Posts sites as it was of the treaty ports.
8
Ireland’s geographic position was a concern for the Allied countries, especially Britain.
Director of Military Intelligence for Ireland Colonel Dan Bryan outlined the problem even
before the war when he wrote “Ireland by geographical position lies across and controls
the communications of Great Britain with all the outside world save only that considerable
but far more preponderant portion which borders the North Sea and Baltic” (quoted in
Kennedy 2008, 14). Furthermore the experience and extent of unrestricted submarine
warfare off the Irish Coast during the First World War made the concept of fighting an
Atlantic war without access to the Irish Ports a considerable worry (Kennedy 2008, 14).
Ireland’s geopolitical position therefore created a potential weak spot in Britain's defences,
one which Churchill was eager to plug.
It should be remembered however that given the long history of Irish-British relations,
there was within DeValera’s government a deep suspicion of Britain. Thus despite the
requests and bargaining ploys of Churchill, including an offer in principle of Irish Unity
(Wills 2007, 386), DeValera was not about to loosen his grip on such a hard won
independence and declared the country’s neutrality in what he referred to as “The
Emergency”. “Neutrality” was to be DeValera’s method of asserting Ireland’s
independence and as Dwyer (2009,1) states “...demonstrating independence became the
imperative of the country’s foreign policy in succeeding years”.
DeValera however was not alone in his pre-occupation with neutrality. In a report to the
Dominions office in 1942 Sir John Maffey, the British representative to Ireland described
the national sentiment as follows “In the country at large neutrality is no longer merely a
policy. It has become a principle, almost a faith”(quoted in Dwyer 2009,197). The
concept of ‘neutrality’ had infiltrated the popular psyche and evolved as a public
appendage incorporating an emerging cultural identity. Consequently, the accoutrements
of this neutrality, the buildings and structures put in place to defend it, also took on these
same characteristics and became the physical manifestations of these sentiments, the LOPs
of the Irish Marine and Coast Watching service being a prime example.
Notwithstanding this ‘neutral fervour’, it will be argued that the archaeological record
shows these sentiments to have altered over the course of the war supporting Maffey’s
comment that “when the principle of neutrality is not publicly and violently outraged, the
Éire authorities endeavour to solve the problems which the war brings in a manner
favourable to us” (Dwyer 2009,197) and on another occasion “ Hateful as their neutrality
9
is, it has been a neutrality friendly to our cause”(Dwyer 2009, 131). Whilst undoubtedly
the agreement to the establishment of what was known as the “Donegal Corridor”
(whereby Ireland permitted Allied planes to fly over neutral territory to reach their bases in
the counties of Northern Ireland) is the most well known example of this ‘friendly
neutrality”, the archaeological evidence of the aerial EIRE signs bears physical testament
to this neutral bias, as they included the number of the associated LOP which turned them
into ‘navigational aids’(Kennedy 2008, 244).
2.1 The establishment of Ireland’s “Marine and Coast-Watching Service”
Neutrality brought with it its own problems. Ireland’s location between Britain and the
western world and lying close to the trade routes of Europe (Kennedy 2008, 14) meant that
it held the potential to be strategically important to both Britain and Germany. It was
apparent some action would be required to guard Ireland’s neutrality. As a country
however, Ireland was virtually defenceless. It had no real navy, an underfunded and badly
equipped army and an air corps consisting of 13 planes (Kennedy 2008, 89).
As mentioned above, Colonel Dan Bryan had for the previous decade recognised Ireland’s
vulnerability in this area and had long been a proponent of establishing a coast-watching
service, but it was prior to the outbreak of war during the Munich Crisis of September
1938 that this vulnerability was finally acknowledge and the establishment of the Coast
Watching Service became a reality (Kennedy 2008,16). It was decided by the Department
of Defence, headed by Minister of Defence Frank Aiken that a network of observational
posts be established around the entire coast of the Eire to observe and report on any
violation of, or threat to, Irish neutrality (Kennedy 2008,16) . The coast-watching service
would be run by “...an officer at the rank of Commandant assisted by a civilian specialist
in nautical matters” (Kennedy 2008, 21) and it would report to the District Military
Command. By April of 1939 the service was ready to start the recruitment of 800
volunteers and advertisements were duly published in all national newspapers (see Fig.1).
10
Fig 1. Recruitment advertisement, Irish Press Saturday 29th
April 1939
http://www.irishnewsarchive.com/Default/Skins/INA/Client.asp?Skin=INA&enter=true&AppName=2&AW=1355770101461
Britain was also anxious that a comprehensive coast-watching scheme be put in place, not
only for the reasons outlined above but also because Ireland, if invaded by Germany, could
facilitate an easier invasion of Britain. It was with this motivation that at this early set-up
stage, the British Admiralty became involved in an advisory capacity and the seeds of
British-Irish intelligence co-operation were sown (Kennedy 2008, 24) a co-operation that
would continue to grow throughout the war years.
11
2.2. Lookout Post Hut Construction
On the 3rd
of September 1939, with the declaration of war on Germany by Britain and
France, DeValera passed the Emergency Powers Act and declared its commitment to
neutrality (Wills 2008,2) By this time the “Marine and Coast-Watching Service” existed
in “rudimentary form” (Kennedy 2008, 32). Recruitment had in fact outstripped the
construction of the Lookout posts and with the outbreak of war the personnel were initially
required to operate out of army tents. However by 19th
of September 1939 the design of
the lookout post huts was agreed between Office of Public Works architect,W.H. Howard
Cooke and the Director of Military Engineering (Kennedy 2008,49) and so the form of the
physical landscape of the entire coast area of Ireland was to be altered and militarised to
suit the needs of the newly formed state.
It is worthy of note that Martello Towers and Coast-watching Towers were already in
existence along the Irish coastline since the early 19th
century. The LOP building
programme was not therefore the first militarisation of the Irish landscape, however these
earlier buildings were the work of a different state with different priorities and agenda’s.
In correspondence written by Commander Seamus O’Muiris, Directory of the Irish Marine
Service, to The Chief of Staff Office, G2 Branch on 10th
February 1943, the difference
between the two different coast-watching services is proffered when he wrote..
“ The Coast Guard stations used during the last war were sited to give
accessibility by land and in many cases patrols had to go long distances before a
good view seaward could be obtained.
The system therefore supplies a much more efficient service than that provided by
the old system of Coast Guard stations since the whole coastline is kept under
continuous observation under normal conditions”
(MA/G2/X/318)
Many of the LOPs were actually built adjacent to or in close proximity to these existing
earlier structures, but there were many more located between these locations, all working
in unison. However the fact that where the chosen location of the new LOP coincided with
that of the old Coast Guard buildings, the state still chose to build their own building,
12
highlights the recognition of these differences and the underlying determination of the new
state to stamp it’s own identity on the frontiers of the country (Fig 2).
Fig 2. LOP no. 5 at Rush, Co. Dublin built adjacent to existing Martello Tower.
The construction of the LOPs represents one of the largest engineering exercises
undertaken by the Irish Defence Forces during the Second World War. It involved
planning and constructing positions at strategic locations along a 1,970 mile coastline from
Ballagan Point in Louth to Inishowen Head in Donegal (Schmelzer 2011).
Each hut was to be built from one design and constructed from 137 pre-cast 4” concrete
blocks. The huts were to be 9ft wide and 13ft long with a large bay-window made up of
six angled windows on the coast end of the building. On the right wall at the rear was the
door which opened into a porch. At the rear wall of the building there was a fireplace
(Kennedy 2008, 49), (Fig 3 refers). The archaeology however will demonstrate how some
buildings deviated from this plan.
www.lookoutpost.com
13
Fig. 3 Section drawing from architect W.H. Howard Cooke’s LOP plans.
Kennedy maintains that by 9th
March 1940 all the huts had been constructed (2008,51).
They were basic, vastly inadequate to cope with the weather given their exposed coastal
positions and poorly built given the urgency of their construction but they were also the
first nation-wide physical manifestation of the intent of the Irish people – to remain
independent and neutral. However, perhaps their biggest flaw, when they were initially
constructed, was that they had no means of communication other than by travelling,
sometimes as far as eight miles, by bike to the nearest Garda station or Post Office in order
to telephone their District Command (Kennedy 2008,45).
In 1939 the Irish telephone network was in its infancy and though there were lines in
Dublin which facilitated connection of the Lookouts at Howth, Dalkey and Wicklow quite
early on, some of the posts on the west coast remained unconnected until late in 1940 and
two located in Kerry were never connected at all (Kennedy 2008,47). Kennedy sums up
this weakness in stating “Bicycles and the local post office or Garda station telephone were
of no use for reporting a fast low-flying aircraft as the aircraft would be long gone by the
time its presence was reported up the chain of command (2008,43). He further recounts
the documented experience of Lookout personnel at Roonagh, Co. Mayo who, in
Courtesy of the National Archives of Ireland
14
attempting to phone through information to G2 in the middle of the night was informed by
the on-duty Garda that no connection was possible until the post-office opened the
following day (Kennedy 2008, 44).
However, with the fall of France on 25th
June 1940, the government prioritised the
connection of all LOPs to the telephone network “as a matter of extreme urgency” (Litton
1961,86). Over 100 miles of new pole route were erected to some of the most remote and
inaccessible locations in Ireland along with hundreds of miles of trunk lines. This
monumental task was completed within the months of June and July of 1940 (Litton 1961,
86-87).
Fig 4. LOP no. 69 at Mullaghmore with phone line still in situ, embedded in the
concrete at the top of the left hand side wall
15
Fig 5. Holes in interior left hand side wall of LOP 69 at Mullaghmore where arguably
the phone apparatus was installed. These holes are evident in all of the LOPs within
this study, where the left hand side wall exists.
2.3 Aerial EIRE Signs
The EIRE signs that were constructed in the early summer of 1943 adjacent to each LOP
around the coastline were a practical solution to an ongoing problem. Kennedy maintains
that in the eleven months from April 1943 to March 1944, 21,000 military aircraft flew
near or over Ireland. Of the 12,000 that could be identified 99.65% were allied aircrafts
and during the same period there were 40 forced landings on Irish territory (2008, 244).
The signs were primarily intended to warn aircrafts that they were flying over neutral
Ireland. It would appear however that their construction was at the behest of the United
States as documentary evidence in the form of a telegram (dated 21st
December 1943)
from the US envoy to Ireland, David Gray, informs the US Secretary of State, Cordell
Hull, that they had “been erected as a result, at least partially, of the efforts of’ the
American legation in Dublin (quoted in Kennedy 2008, 244). Also in this same telegram,
Gray refers to the LOP numbers saying, “Any pilot with the aid of the key map can find
16
his location” (quoted in Kennedy 2008, 247). These numbers had been added at the request
of the US Air Force in June of 1943 (Kennedy 2008, 244). This being the case, the
construction of the numbered signs can be interpreted as a breach of neutrality by Ireland
in favour of the Allies and consequently the archaeological evidence of these signs that are
present in the landscape today are of importance as physical indicators of this neutral bias.
There were in fact two types of signs constructed. Initially in 1943 the signs were
constructed without any specific format, the coast-watching personnel merely instructed to
“collect flat stones to make letters” (Kennedy 2009, 245). However, one year later in the
summer of 1944 the signs were all replaced to a “standard format of 12 x 6m, surrounded
by a wide rectangular stone border” and whitewashed to increase visibility (Kennedy 2008,
245). The importance of these signs as navigational aids and as an indicator of Ireland’s
‘neutral’ bias is evidenced by the fact that the United States Air Force included a detailed
description of them as part of the briefings for all crews who were to fly near Ireland
(Kennedy 2009, 247).
.
17
Chapter 3. The archaeology
3.1. Field Surveys
The time constraint of this project meant that the field surveys were restricted to a total of
20 sites. This represents approximately 24% of all the sites constructed. For purposes of
comparison it was decided to select ten consecutive sites on the East coast and ten on the
west coast. (fig 6).
LOP No. Location Lop No. Location
East Coast
6 Howth 11 Cahore
7 Dalkey 12 Ballyconnigar Hill
8 Bray 13 Greenore Point
9 Wicklow Head 13 Carnsore Point
10 Kilmichael Point 14 Forlorn Point
West Coast
63 Benwee Head 68 Rosskeeragh
64 Downpatrick Head 69 Mullaghmore
65 Kilcummin 70 St. Johns Point
66 Lenadoon 71 Carrigan Head
67 Aughris 72 Rossan Point
Fig 6.
18
For ease of recording a ‘Field Survey Record Sheet” was designed and filled-in at each site
(Fig 7).
Fig 7. Sample of Field Survey Record Sheet
Lookout Post sites numbered 6 through to 15 which occurred at 5 to 10 mile intervals
between Howth Head Co. Dublin and Forlorn Point, Co. Wexford on the East coast and
sites numbered 63 through to 72 occurring at similar intervals between Benwee Head, Co
Mayo and Rossan Point in South Donegal on the West coast, were systematically recorded
by photographic survey. Where buildings existed, measurements were taken. A hand held,
digital “Irish Grid Reference Compass” was used by standing at the front of each
building/building foundation and recording the co-ordinates and the orientation of each
19
building (Irish Grid Ref Compass v1.50 - 2012-2013, app for smart phone). Levels of
conservation at each site were then assessed by means of a pre-determined scale (Fig8).
Finally an observational search of the surrounding area was conducted in an effort to
locate the aerial EIRE signs and a positive or negative result entered onto the Field Record
Sheet. A brief description of the site/building was also recorded along with the date of
survey, the weather conditions and the extent of visibility.
In the case of a building which presented with less than 50% of wall (conservation level 5)
or where an exceptional feature was in existence adjacent to the building such as a walled
entrance, pathway or other associated structure, the feature was noted on a field sketch
sheet and included in the data file for the particular site.
Scale indicating level of preservation
1 Building presents fully intact with roof
2 Building presents fully intact but has been
modified over the years
3 Building presents with all walls but roof
damaged or missing
4 Building presents with greater that 50% of walls
5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls
6 Building presents only as rubble
7 Building evidenced only by concrete
floor/foundation
8 Building and all tracer evidence not in existence.
Fig 8.
20
3.3. Analysis of data generated by field survey.
Fig 9.
40%
10%
20%
10%
20%
Percentage of East Coast LOP's at
each conservation Level
40%
10%
20%
10%
10%
10%
Percentage of West Coast LOP's at
each conservation Level
1- Building presents fully intact with roof
2- Building presents fully intact but has been modified over the years
3- Building presents with all walls but roof damaged or missing
4- Building presents with greater than 50% of walls
5- Building presents with less than 50% of walls
6-Building presents only as rubble
7-Building evidenced only by concrete floor/foundation
8-Building and all trace evidence not in existence.
Legend
21
3.3.1. Conservation
The survey clearly shows a difference in levels of conservation of the subject sites between
the East Coast and the West coast (fig 9). 80% of the West Coast buildings have a
conservation level in the 1-4 range (i.e. presenting with greater than 50% of walls intact)
compared to 50% on the East coast with both the subject areas presenting 4 buildings
completely intact. In most cases the field survey has shown that even the intact buildings
are beginning to show signs of becoming unstable. Only one is in present day use
(Wicklow Head) and has been maintained, though has also been modified to suit its’
current purpose.
Whilst every site on the West coast had some visible evidence of the buildings, two of the
sites on the East coast had completely disappeared. The fact that the East is more densely
populated than the west and that the sites tend to be situated closer to urban centres
facilitating a greater chance of public interaction is undoubtedly a factor though the sites
on the west coast have arguably to contend with more extreme weather, the huts at
Carrigan Head, Co. Donegal and Rosskeeragh, Co. Sligo both falling as a result of a
singular weather event (in the case of Carrigan Head, a winter storm in 1995 (local
knowledge)).
3.3.2 Orientation and fields of vision
The orientation of the bay-windowed end of each building/building floor was recorded
during the field survey in order to facilitate an approximate calculation of field of vision
for each Lookout post. Using the formula “SquareRoot(height above surface / 0.5736) =
distance to horizon” (Science, How Stuff Works) distances were calculated and entered
into the GIS software which enabled production of the graphic showing approximate fields
of vision from each post. Of course the use of binoculars would perhaps have increased
this view and these theoretically enhanced fields of vision are indicated in the graphic
below as the lighter blue extension to the distance fields (Fig.10).
22
Fig 10. Approximate field of vision from each LOP (excluding LOP No. 6 at Howth and LOP
NO.12 at Ballyconnigar Hill for which there is no physical evidence) . The ‘Donnegal
Corridor’ is also arrowed. The darker blue areas represent theoretically possible un-
enhanced views from the LOPs with the lighter blue areas showing theoretically
possible extended views given optimum conditions and powerful binoculars.
23
Chapter 4 :Discussion
4.1 Lookout Post huts
Most of the sites are located on headlands in extreme coast-edge positions. All but two of
the sites revealed easily recognisable archaeological remains, with the remaining two
presenting no evidence at all that could be recognised by a sight-only survey. In the case of
these two sites at Howth and Ballyconnigar Hill (both on the East coast) the location was
identified by reference to original grid references that were documented in correspondence
held within the Military Archives (EDP/20/5). Though these grid references referred to a
now obsolete mapping system, it was possible to convert the references to the Irish
Transverse Mercator (ITM) co-ordinate system and get an approximate location. However,
without physical evidence it was impossible to categorically indicate the exact orientation
of each of these buildings, thus the field of vision for these sites has not been incorporated
into the graphic representation above (see fig 10).
80% of the Lookout buildings surveyed as part of this project largely conformed to the
architect drawn plan mentioned earlier, though the surveys revealed slight variances in
dimensions as they ranged in length between 376 and 396cm and in width between 251
and 271cm. They had an angled bay window facing the sea, a doorway on the rear right
wall and an interior wall extending to 97cm with a width of 11cm (which created an inner
porch area). In most cases there was evidence of an inner door leading off this porch into
the main room which also had a fireplace located on the back wall. Where only the
foundations exist (i.e. Dalkey, Bray and Cahore on the east coast and Rosskeeragh and
Carrigan Head on the west coast) the shape and dimensions of the foundation floor
indicate that these building were also of standard design.
However there were exceptions found notably on the south east coast. LOP No. 14 at
Carnsore point proved to be the most dramatically different as it was located on top of
what appears to be a pre existing single storey building constructed of red brick with the
exterior plastered in a concrete and stone mix (fig 11).
24
Fig 11. LOP No.14 at Carnsore Point, Co. Wexford.
In addition to the unusual location, it differs from the architect design in so far as it has
angled observation windows located at each end of the building and the fireplace is located
in the centre of the south wall. There were only five individual windows making up each
widow-bay unlike the six which usually make up the bay window area in the huts that are
of standard design. The entrance to the structure was through the building underneath with
an access opening located in the floor of the building opposite the fireplace.
LOP no. 15 at Forlorn Point also differs from the norm. It was also located on the upper
level of another building, though it is not possible to ascertain if this was a later addition.
It is accessed via a stairway on the outside of the East wall (fig 12).
25
Fig 12. LOP No. 15 at Forlorn Point.
It has an angled bay window section spanning approximately 4m in width (twice the
normal width). The windows on each wall of the angled bay were made up of one large
window with a smaller side, sliding sash window and unusually there were windscreen-
wipers attached to the larger window pane. The depth of the room was considerably
smaller than the norm at approximately 1.67m. The fireplace was located on the western
wall. It is not possible to say from sight survey alone if the existing windows and window-
wipers date to the 1939 – 1945 period or if they were a later modification. The room
appears to be out of use for some time as the access stairway is overgrown with weeds and
brambles. Furthermore a visual inspection through the window showed it to be empty
except for some lengths of wood. There was however a modern communication aerial
attached to the roof of the lower building which also had a sign over the back door saying
“Coastguard”.
26
The variation found in Lookout hut design appears to be linked to the topography of the
coastline. Where the altitude falls below 12m, as is the case with both Carnsore Point and
Forlorn Point, which present as 6.80m and 5.48m respectively, the design has been
modified to reflect the low altitude and the buildings have been sited on top of other
buildings giving them an approximate 5 to 6m height advantage.
Evidence of a small external entrance wall located at the doorway of the Lookout huts was
present in at least two of the east coast sites at Bray and Wicklow Head (Fig 13 & 14). A
possible third site at Kilmichael Point on the east coast also had evidence of a red brick
structure at the doorway, now in ruins and mostly buried beneath the sand (Fig 15)
Fig.13 Small external wall at Wicklow Fig. 14 Small external wall at Bray LOP.
Head LOP
27
Fig 15 : Buried Red-brick feature at LOP 10 at Kilmichael Point, Co. Wicklow.
This external feature was not present on any of the west coast LOPs surveyed, however at
four of the west coast sites there was evidence of a circular pit feature in close proximity to
the buildings (Fig 16).
Fig. 16. Circular pit feature adjacent to LOP no. 69 at Mullaghmore
It is suggested that these regional similarities noted in features occurring adjacent to the
LOP buildings, the walled external entrances on the east coast and the circular pit features
28
on the west, may be indicative of building decisions made at local level by the Defence
Forces construction team and arguably indicates that some LOPs were built by the same
team. One possible interpretation of these features is that they may have provided a
sheltered area for storing fuel; coal on the east coast and turf on the west (covered in the
pit by a protective covering). Further investigation or excavation of the features may
produce evidence to support this theory.
4.2. Aerial EIRE signs
The aerial EIRE signs were most evident on the West Coast. At Downpatrick, Co. Mayo
the sign had been excavated in the week prior to field survey and had revealed some stones
still bearing traces of whitewash. The border had been detected but on grounds of health
and safety had not been included in the excavation (Caulfield 2014), (Fig 17).
Fig. 17. Recently excavated EIRE sign with stones bearing traces of whitewash.
At Carrigan Point, Co. Donegal there is evidence that perhaps two signs were constructed
in two different locations. The partial remains of a sign at 54˚37’29.94N, 8˚40’37.99W are
29
visible from a distance (Fig.18) whilst what appears to be another sign is partially visible
close by at 54˚37’36.74N, 8˚41’02.84W (Fig 19).
Fig. 18.Partial remains of EIRE sign at Carrigan Head, 54˚37’29.94N, 8˚40’37.99W)
Fig 19. Suggested partial remains of EIRE sign at Carrigan Head, 54˚37’36.74N,
8˚41’02.84W (arrowed)
At Benwee Head, Co. Mayo the EIRE sign was complete and appeared to have been
recently renovated (fig20)
www.bing.com/maps
30
Fig 20. EIRE sign at Benwee Head
On the East Coast at the site of Bray LOP a 10m row of large stones were detected in a
very overgrown, grassy area approximately 15m to the east of the LOP site. Without
further investigation and excavation it is not possible to say if they are connected with the
sign.
Photographic evidence from the 1950’s held by the Military Archives shows the EIRE sign
at Wicklow Head in situ (Fig 21). The area was overgrown at time of field survey, to the
extent that it was impossible to find any surface evidence however, current satellite images
appear to show the sign may still be there and could be revealed by excavation at a later
date (Fig 22).
31
Fig 21. Aerial photograph of Wicklow Head dated circa. 1950 (MA Vertical Negative Prints
Box/ Wicklow Folder).
Fig 22. Satellite view of EIRE sign site. “R” and “E” appear to be still visible.
From the visual evidence, the letters of the aerial EIRE signs found on the West coast
appear to be of similar design and dimensions. However, the photograph showing the sign
at Wicklow Head taken in the 1950’s (Fig 21), shows a deviation in design with the
number 9 occurring below the EIRE and cutting through the border (on the more standard
examples the number of the Lookout occurs above the bordered sign). The border and
letters also appear to be narrower than elsewhere although this can only be determined by
excavation. Kennedy maintains that there were two sets of signs built, the first an ad-hoc
attempt by the individual Lookouts and the second conforming to the dimensions of 12 x
www.Bing.com/maps
32
6m with wide rectangular border (Kennedy 2008, 244). It may therefore be the case that
the sign at Wicklow Head was the original sign which was never updated, or perhaps could
not be updated due to topography issues.
The presence of a second sign at Carrigan Head could arguably be accounted for by virtue
of the fact that there is very few flat areas of suitable dimension in the location (with the
exception of the small carpark adjacent to the sign in Fig.19 which appears to be of more
modern construction). The location of one sign on a north facing slope (as in Fig 18)
would not have been visible to planes flying in a northerly direction, however the sign in
Fig.19 is south-west facing and would have addressed this problem.
4.3. Other buildings of the Emergency Defence Plan.
The Irish Marine and Coastwatching Service was just one of a number of defence
organisations that were established under The Emergency Act of 1939. There were in fact
two invasion scenarios considered; invasion from Germany (via coast or air) and invasion
from Britain. Invasion from Britain was deemed more likely to occur along the East coast,
at the treaty ports or at the six-county Northern Ireland border (Wills 2007,88,).
Invasion fears reached an all-time high in May of 1940 with the fall of France and on the
9th
July a directive issued from Portobello Barracks in Dublin confirmed that “Provision
will be made for prompt opposition to a hostile advance including delaying action by a
small detachment between the border and a final line of defence. The final line of defence
will be the general line of the river Boyne and Blackwater from the sea to Lough Ramor.”
(quoted in Wills 2007, 89).
In addition to the LOPs observing the coast, observation groups were also to be situated at
the ports and along the border frontier. The “delaying action” by a “small detachment”
referred to above was to be made up of cyclists and cavalry squadrons whose objectives
were to report on the whereabouts of the enemy and cause the maximum amount of
obstruction and delay north of the main line of resistance which was concentrated on the
south side of the river Boyne (Stout 2002,168). This final line of resistance consisted of a
series of pillboxes, grouped together at strategic points, which would be manned by
defence personnel if and when it was thought an incursion was likely (Stout 2002, 172).
33
Though these defences were clearly planned in mid 1940 it would appear from dates and
initials found scrawled on the pillboxes that these were not built in the main until 1942
(Wills 2008, 89).
These pill-boxes were clearly defensive in their design, varying in shape and size but were
all basically concrete artillery emplacements with concealed points of entry and “internally
splayed horizontal slits” (Stout 2002,170)
Fig. 23 Pillbox at Bridge on the Boyne, Co. Meath
4.3.1 Pillbox and LOP Comparison
The Pillboxes described in the previous section stand in stark contrast to the Lookout huts
that had been built three years earlier with little or no defensive characteristics. In contrast
to the small rifle slits which were a feature of the pill-boxes, the Lookout huts had six large
windows situated in an angled bay. Additionally, their cliff-top locations, selected for
maximum visibility meant that they had maximum exposure. Although arming the LOP
personnel with rifles and sub-machine guns had been discussed, it had only been realised
at LOP no. 41 at Fenit. (Kennedy 2008, 39). A few posts such as Howth and Dalkey which
www.geograph.ie
34
were deemed ‘key positions’, benefitted from having searchlights, sound detectors and
associated additional personnel located on site (Kennedy 2008, 171). At the LOP site in
Dalkey the remnants of a concrete platform, 150 x 150cm with bolt holes can be found
located approximately 3m from the LOP base which may have been the base of the
documented searchlight (Fig. 24)
Fig 24 Concrete platform with bolt holes at LOP no.7 at Dalkey, Co. Dublin.
For the most part the Lookout volunteers and their huts were completely undefended. The
volunteers were instructed to destroy all equipment and join nearest LDF contingent if the
coast was invaded or in case of the LOP being held-up “to slip past persons engaged in the
operation and cycle to the nearest point to which phone or other contact could be made
with the nearest military posts” (Kennedy 2008, 42).
The proximity of the Lookout huts, in theory, facilitated an overlapping and contiguous
field of vision of the seas and skies adjacent to the subject stretch of coastlines (illustrated
in Fig 10). The overlapping light blue areas indicating enhanced extended view fields in
the aforementioned graphic show areas which could theoretically be observed by more
than one LOP. Of particular importance is the number of LOPs which could observe the
activity of belligerent aircraft along the Donnegal Corridor (arrowed in Fig 10).
35
Kennedy, commenting on the special arrangement that was put in place to allow this
breach of neutrality, states that the eight mile route from Belleek to the sea at
Ballyshannon and out over Donegal Bay, was agreed to in a meeting between DeValera
and Sir John Maffey in January 1941 and within a month the LOPs in Donegal Bay had
recorded a marked increase in aerial activity, “with St.Johns Point becoming the most
important LOP for the observation of flights through the air corridor” (2008, 141- 142). It
is suggested that as a stipulation of the air corridor agreement, that as flights were to fly at
a height of 1000 ft over Eire (Kennedy 2008,141), the proximity of St.Johns Point to the
start of the corridor may have given the coastwatchers at this LOP the best chance of
observing the greatest number of flights before they reached this height.
If, as seems likely, the remaining 62 LOP sites on the coastlines which are not included in
this study, were similarly located and built with consideration to the topography of each
area, it would demonstrate a comprehensive attempt at observing the Irish territory in its
entirety. Observation and fields of vision were however wholly dependent on the weather
and seasons with visibility restricted to daylight hours only during the mid-winter months.
The documentary evidence of the LOP logbooks held within the Military Archives show
however that the posts were manned twenty-four hours a day with entries for the hours of
darkness restricted to descriptions of aircraft noise and occasional visual accounts of flares
or explosions (see fig 25 & 26).
36
Fig 25. MA/LOP/09/2 – note entry at 00.20 describing visual of flashes.
Fig. 26. MA/LOP/09/2 – note entry at 06.10 describing sound of aircraft only, though
visibility good.
37
C hapter 5 – Wicklow Head Case Study
Fig 27 Lookout Post building today in use as VHF marine radio station.
NOTE : Information supplied by material witness is cited as ‘Informant 1’ in order to
ensure anonymity.
The Lookout Post at Wicklow Head is one of three Lookout Posts that have been adapted
for modern day use. It is used today to house VHF maritime radio equipment and is
protected from public interaction by the addition of a security gate protecting the doorway
and wire fencing surrounding the entire site. One of the more notable adaptations made to
the building is the blocking up of the two central windows along with the far right and left
windows within the angled bay. The two remaining windows are filled with obscured
glass, which prevents viewing from the inside out or from the outside in. These
amendments constitute a fundamental change in building use, as visibility is no longer of
any importance to the function or purpose of the structure.
38
This being said however, the building is still recognisable as a Lookout Post building,
conforming in shape and approximate dimensions to architect W.H. Cooke’s original
design. Its current function, in no way diminishes its past role as LOP no. 9 in the network
that made up the Irish Marine and Coast-watching Service.
LOP no. 9 was in fact one of many buildings that occupied the ‘Wicklow Head’ headland
over the past few centuries in order to keep watch over the adjacent coastline.
25” Ordnance Survey maps dated between 1897-1913 show the headland to have been
populated by various buildings of a maritime nature, with what is labelled ‘F.S.
Semaphore’ at the location of the present LOP building (Fig 28).
www.OSI.ie
Fig 28. 25” Ordnance Survey Map of Wicklow Head
This structure appears to be part of an installation collectively called the “Coastguard
Station” consisting of a walled enclosure containing various buildings. There are also three
lighthouses shown, two of which are disused.
Photographic evidence dated to 1910 shows the station in its landscape setting, situated
adjacent to the “middle tower”. Clearly visible on the headland is a building with a tall
mast on its northern side which presumably is the “Semaphore” structure. (arrowed in Fig
29).
N
39
Fig. 29. Photograph dated circa 1910 which shows Coastguard Station with
“Semaphore” structure at site of LOP 9 (arrowed).
The “Semaphore” (precursor to Morse Code) was a system that used flags to communicate
with ships at sea. It was used by the British Admiralty and Coastguard primarily in the
prevention of smuggling activities (The Flag Press,2010)
The archaeological evidence of these past times which are present on the headland today
consist of the three lighthouses, the radio station (ex LOP 9) and the ruins of the buildings
of the coastguard station. The station was built by the British Admiralty and the buildings
provided accommodation for the personnel of the Coastguard and their familes. In 1922
they became private houses until they were turned into a youth hostel in 1934. With the
outbreak of World War 2 and the construction of LOP no. 9 they were requisitioned by the
Government for use by the Coast-watching service (Informant 1) and although it is unclear
what kind of ‘use’ was intended, it would seem likely that the additional facilities such as
lavatories and washrooms would have been utilised
It has not been possible to ascertain if the requisitioning of additional buildings by the
Government for the personnel of the Coast-watching service was replicated in other
locations, however for the personnel of LOP no. 9 it no doubt provided welcome
40
additional facilities. Local knowledge highlights the existence of a ledge along the inside
of the garden wall of one of these buildings which gives easy access to a climbable section
of the rock face leading to the LOP site and it is known that LOP personnel used this
‘shortcut’( Informant 1).
Logbook entries made by LOP 9 personnel refer to a ‘new’ and ‘old’ building;
“9/2/1940 - Received 2 keys from contractor for new hut, gave him receipt”
And
“10/2/1940 – Board of Works measuring site of old and new hut, also wire
phaling” (MA, LOP/9/1)
Thus it would seem likely that the LOP personnel may have used this old coastguard
“Semaphore” structure at first whilst awaiting the building of the new hut.
The construction of the new LOP represented the first building on Wicklow Head to be
built by the Irish Government. To a degree its construction represents the militarisation of
the headland; the marking of a border over which no foreign army may trespass. This
militarisation extended also to the swelling of the Local Security Force. ranks and a
general increase in military presence in the area as the LOP was under army control and
subject to inspection at varying times of the day and night. Local memory recalls regular
patrols by members of the L.S.F. as well as shortages and rationing thus ensuring the war
was never too far removed from the lives of the inhabitants of Wicklow Town (Informant
1).
In 1946, with the Coast-watching service disbanded, the houses of the old Coastguard
Station were demolished, with some of the Coast-watching volunteers employed to do the
work (Informant 1).
The volunteers working in LOP 9 were recruited locally and included the following names;
Corporal P. O’Sullivan, R. Brennan, W. Goodman, J.J. Kavanagh, J. Malone, T. Malone,
P. O’Connor (from Kennedy 2008, 318) and M. Patchell , P. Flowers (MA/LOP/9/1)
41
It is interesting to note that families of the same names still live in Wicklow today and
may be related to these men who had a ringside seat for so much of the wartime activity
along the East Coast.
One of the more infamous events that occurred during the war years in neutral Ireland was
the Luftwaffe bombing of the North Strand area of Dublin on 31st
May 1941. Investigation
of the logbooks for LOP no. 9 for that evening show an entry that reads “continuous sound
of aircraft going north from 00.00 to 01.45” and that this information was passed to Air
Defence Command (MA/LOP/9/2). According to Kennedy these planes flying over
Wicklow Head and the other East coast LOPs were German aircraft heading North on
what was to be an abortive raid on Belfast and that it was on their return journey that
Dublin was bombed in what was probably “a tragic accident” as “bombs were dropped by
aircraft running low on fuel seeking to reduce their weight” (Kennedy 2008, 189).
Commenting on the operational aspect of the Emergency Defence Plan that was engaged
that night Kennedy says, “Operationally, this was a successful engagement as LOPs, sound
locators, searchlights and guns all worked together to engage the target” (2008, 192).
Other entries of note in the Wicklow Head LOP Logbooks include the report of the
dropping of incendiary devices on Rathdown on 26th
October 1940. Volunteers M.
Patchell and P. Connor wrote:
25th
Oct. 23.05 “Bray LOP phoned to know if we had any knowledge of bombing of
Rathdown as they had reported same to CDO on information of
Bray Gardai.
“Gave them details of flashing lights”
25th
Oct. 23.15 W. Goodman and T Malone wrote :
“Test call from Wicklow Gardai with information regarding
bombing. Told us they had priority of Wicklow circuit for 1 hour
and fifteen minutes from time we reported incident to them.
42
26th
Oct. 00.20 “ 3 Flashed in quick succession followed by period of illuminations
lasting 20 minutes 1½ miles west of Post. Vis good.”
The following day volunteers R. Brennan and P. Connor wrote:
27th
Oct. 21.00 “ Leader of B group of Wicklow L.S.F. reported to us that
Rathdown L.S.F. [today] who were searching under Supt. Flynn
picked up cap of the delayed action bomb in stump of Castle on the
North Side of River and three unexploded incendiary bombs in the
townland of Ballyhad on the south side of river. Supt. Flynn handed
them over to the military”.
(MA/LOP/9/1)
This incident demonstrates not only the level of communication between the LOPs, the
Gardai and L.S.F. but is also a working example of the Coastal Defence Plan in action and
the level of participation of LOP 9 at Wicklow Head.
5.1. The aerial EIRE sign at Wicklow Head.
The aerial EIRE sign was located at the base of the octagonal tower located on an area
known as Long Hill (Informant 1). Log book entries at time of construction include the
following:
20th July 1943 : “Phone call from Sub depot to say that the man on 8 to 4 duty is
responsible for the “EIRE” sign and that he is to inspect it each day
at 4 O’Clock and make entry in Log about it”
17th
Aug 1943 “E.I.R completed. Work started on E”
20th
Aug 1943 “Aerial sign completed”
26th
Aug 1943 “Sighted 1 high winged fixed engine twin-rudder monoplane half a
mile west of Post moving south. Height 1,000 feet, nationality
British. Vis good.
43
26th
Aug 1943 “Comdt. McDonald phoned about EIRE sign. “Tower to be
whitened and 9 to be extended and letters EIRE to be whitened and
borders to be put around sign”.
18th
Sep 1943 “Ring from Comdt McDonald to know were the letters of sign
completed and whitened. Corporal to get as many men as available
to finish border”
27th
Sep 1943 “Lieut. McDevitte phoned to know was border complete and
everything in order. Told him it was”
Kennedy, speculating on Allied involvement in construction of the sign, says in relation to
Wicklow Head LOP and the logbook entries cited above;
“Three days after the sign was completed an RAF Coastal Command Liberator
passed south half-a-mile west of the post at 1,000 feet. Possibly this was just a
coincidence, but perhaps not: later that day Wicklow Head LOP was ordered to put
a border around the sign and to extend the size of the number ‘9’ next to the sign”
(2008, 245).
It’s of interest to note that local knowledge, from an age appropriate witness, maintains
that the octagonal tower adjacent to the sign was never white-washed however the
“middle-tower” appears white in the 1910 photo (fig29) and indeed white paint was
evident on the middle tower at time of the field survey carried out in respect of this project.
Comparison of the 1950’s photograph and the 6” Ordnance Survey Map dated between
1829-1841 (see Figs. 30 & 31 below) show the shape of the sign border to be the same as a
feature recorded on the earlier map. It therefore seems likely that the sign was sited on a
pre-existing structure of some kind though it is of interest to note that this same feature is
not recorded on the later 25” map (Fig.28). It may be that it was overgrown at that time
due to the ‘disused’ status of the lighthouse but had been discovered and cleared at the
time of construction of the sign.
44
Fig 30. 6” historic map, feature circled and arrowed. Fig 31. Photo circa 1950,
5.2. Wicklow Town’s Heritage
The National Sites and Monuments service records 33 archaeological/historical sites at
Wicklow Town. Amongst them is evidence of very early settlement in the Wicklow Town
location with a Prehistoric site located at what is called Corporation Land, North west of
Wicklow Head (National Sites and Monuments website). Also recorded are a Souterrain
and Holy Well at Dunbar Head, a Promotory Fort on the headland South-east of Wicklow
Harbour and of course the ruins of the ‘Black Castle’ also on this same headland.
Though the town itself dates back to Viking times, it’s name Wicklow deriving from the
Norse name Wykinglo, Clarke says that the date of construction of the castle is unknown
but that the first reference to it dates to 1174 (Clarke 1944,1) coinciding with the arrival of
the Normans. It appears to have been in the primary possession of Baron Maurice
Fitzgerald but in following years was subjected to various attacks by the Irish O’Byrne and
O’Toole clans, finally being burnt to ground in 1301(Visit Wicklow website).
Also of note within the town is the ruin of a Franciscan abbey which is located at the
north-western end of Wicklow Town. It dates to the early 13th
century and is believed to
have been built by the Fitzgerald family (mentioned above). It was confiscated during the
www.OSI.ie
45
reign of King Edward VI, 1547-1553 and was subsequently turned into an armoury and a
courthouse (Parish of Wicklow website).
Another example of Wicklow’s built heritage is the Wicklow Gaol which was in use from
1702 to 1924. Built to deal with prisoners sentenced under the penal laws, it was
notorious in its depravation. With a history spanning over 200 years it housed it’s last
prisoners during the War of Independence, 1920-21. It has become a popular tourist
attraction in present times (Wicklows Historic Gaol 1702-1924)
Wicklow Town presents today as a place with a proud appreciation of it’s local heritage
both built and documented and there are plenty of concerned and interested community
groups who recognise the need to promote and protect this aspect of their town’s identity.
Of note is the vibrant and active Historical Society which has been publishing journals
since 1988 and who admit to be “skimming the surface of Wicklow’s long and varied
history to bring the fruits of our research to the inquisitive people of the town and its
environs” (Finlay 2014, 1) and The Wicklow Peace and Rememberance Memorial Group
who are dedicated to memorialising Wicklow’s war dead (Wicklows Peace and
Remberance Memorial Group website).
Online, there is the interactive County Wicklow Heritage website which is a “community
heritage archive, set up to store and showcase Wicklow’s rich natural, built and cultural
heritage” and which has open access “whereby anybody with an interest in encouraged to
browse and to contribute” (County Wicklow Heritage website).
The built heritage of the Wicklow Headland however is largely missing from the local
historical narrative. Though the headland is a popular walking destination and the
Lighthouses feature on many a postcard, the history and archaeology of the Lookout Post
building and it’s associated aerial EIRE sign remains undocumented.
However interaction with the local community in the course of researching this case study
has revealed an interest in this aspect of Wicklow Town’s heritage and an appetite for both
conservation and memorialisation of the people and events associated with these World
War 2 sites.
Professor of archaeology Seamus Caulfield who has been excavating the EIRE sign at
Downpatrick Head speaks of the interest in the sign shown by tourists and locals alike
46
(Caulfield 2014) and it is suggested that the sign at Wicklow Head could prove to be of
equal interest both locally and indeed to a much wider national and international audience.
47
Chapter 6 - Conclusion:
Central to the construction of the Lookout posts was the defence of Ireland’s neutral status.
That the concept of Irish neutrality was “seen as a core attribute of Irish national identity, a
central value associated with nationalism” (Girvan 2006,145) was verbalised by J.J. Walsh
(businessman, former government minister and pro-German advocate) in 1940 in a
memorandum to DeValera in which he stated “Neutrality was not entered upon for the
purpose of being used as a bargaining factor. It represented and does represent, the
fundamental attitude of the entire people. It is just as much a part of the national position
as the desire to remain Irish, and we can no more abandon it than we can renounce
everything that constitutes our national distinctiveness” (Girvan 2006, 145). The
verbalisation of this sentiment shows that the Coast-watching service was as much about
displaying independence as it was about providing military defence. The Lookout posts
became the theatres of nationalistic display and as such have a value as part of our cultural
heritage. They are the places where the ethereal notion of political automony became a
physical manifestation and portrayed to the wider world the changed status of this one time
colonised nation.
Bolton states that “In evoking a vanished order – and thereby, in some sense, sustaining it
– ruins help us pose questions of how, and whether, the past should be remembered and
preserved” (2010,118).
The buildings of the Irish Marine and Coastwatching Service pose just such questions. In
2004 Schofield, commenting on the importance of maintaining and managing military
heritage in the environment, recognised the need to” maintain physical links for future
generations to make fresh sense of their own past” (2004, 49). Ferriter says that DeValera
was renowned for his preference of minimising written records thus ensuring that there
was little paper evidence of any sensitive material (2007, 10). Consequently there are
archival gaps in the documented historical record particularly with regard to decisions
made for co-operative concessions made by Ireland to the Allies throughout the war. This
being the case, the archaeological record becomes all the more important. The “Donegal
Corridor” is not a physical structure and the true nature of its function can be lost with the
48
passage of time, but the aerial EIRE signs with their associated LOP numbers are
structures which, if preserved, can be interpreted for generations to come.
The preservation of these sites is therefore of the utmost importance. The National
Monument Service which operates under the aegis of the Department of Arts, Heritage and
the Gaeltacht defines a national monument as a monument ‘the preservation of which is a
matter of national importance by reason of the historical, architectural, traditional, artistic
or archaeological interest attaching thereto…’(National Sites and Monuments website).
The LOP sites of war-time Ireland have been argued within this thesis to satisfy that
criteria and are therefore worthy potential recipients of state protection – something they
have heretofore lacked.
The aim of this project was to highlight the relevance of the LOP sites as part of Ireland’s
cultural heritage and the need for more archaeological investigation which includes
accessing and recording the thoughts of the war-time generation. This latter point
(amongst others) was touched upon by Schofield in his document “Modern Military
Matters” which advised on the study and management of twentieth-century defence
heritage in Britain when he states “... our study demands a multi-disciplinary approach,
drawing upon documents, building analysis, archaeology, oral history and other sources to
draw a rounded picture of our military past, and the fabric it has left behind” (2004,1).
This author would suggest that a similar approach could and should be taken to the
militarised landscape of Ireland.
The archaeological exploration of these sites has in part commenced. The aerial EIRE sign
at Downpatrick Head was the focus of an excavation by architectural students at
Downpatrick this year, and have proven to be very popular with cultural tourists (Caulfield
2004).
The sites at Benwee, Malin Head and Loop Head have also been the focus of excavation
and conservation procedures by presumably well-intentioned local amateurs. However, it
is suggested that without the establishment of a professional agenda, governed by good
archaeological and conservational practice as proposed by Schofield and discussed earlier,
the integrity of the archaeology is open to the possibility of environmental risk. With that
said it does provide a positive barometer for interest in the field and it is therefore the
archaeological process that needs to catch up with local enthusiasm.
49
The investigation of material held by the Military Archives has proved to be essential to
this study. Correspondence from Colonel Dan Bryan to the Director of Marine Service on
the 12th
June 1945 concerning the future of the LOP Logbooks following the
demobilisation of the Irish Marine and Coast-watching Service states “ I think it is highly
desirable that some complete logs from the LOPs should be available in the future for
specimen study and historical purposes” (MA/G2/X/0318). This shows great foresight on
the part of Colonel Bryan and it would be to our nation’s detriment if we failed to apply
the same foresight to the wider material evidence, for the benefit of future enquiry into the
country’s understated involvement in the Second World War.
Written by varying hands with all the human foibles ( the crossing out, the careless
spelling, the smudge of a teacup) incorporated therein, we grasp the “everydayness” of the
experience of these men and yet the content and context of these books depicts an entire
world in turmoil. From accounts of mutilated bodies washing up along the shore, the
sound of gunfire and the spectacle of explosions in the skies and oceans surrounding their
little huts, these men recorded it all.
The prevalence of reports on shipping activity in the early war years of 1939-1942 which
was then superseded by reports of aerial activity show how the nature of the war changed
over the duration.
From an archaeological perspective, the accounts of the construction of the EIRE signs
which spanned days and weeks in some cases, show just how substantial they were. This
suggests that though there may be little or no surface evidence, they may still exist and
could be revealed by archaeological excavation, the site at Wicklow Head a prime
example.
The value of the Wicklow Head case-study has proved substantial. The study of the
landscape of the headland over the centuries was informative indicating, as it did, the
geographical importance of the location to maritime traffic with both the abundance of
lighthouses that were built there and the semaphore station that once occupied the site of
what became LOP no. 9. It is interesting to note how the same landmass came to be of
importance to airline traffic in this later stage of occupation with the addition of the EIRE
sign.
50
Perhaps the most important aspect of the case-study though was the interview with the
contemporary witness. His account of the use of the adjacent buildings by coast-watching
personnel and the short-cut they used to reach the LOP, demonstrated that there were
variances in the Coast-watching experience, these apparent extra facilities juxtaposed with
the isolation and bleakness of the locations of other LOPs, such as the one at Benwee
Head or Downpatrick Head in Co. Mayo. Of value also was his description of Wicklow
Town during the war years with army personnel a regular sight and shortages and rationing
a feature of everyday life.
The contribution that could be made to the study of the built heritage of this period by this
demographic cannot be over-estimated but they are a time-sensitive resource which should
be utilised.
The LOPs were buildings of their time. They give us a glimpse of a world without the
technologies we take so much for granted today. They were the satellite, GPS, Radar and
weather stations of their day and they communicated their information via stone made
aerial signs and messages delivered by bicycle (in the early days). They were responsible
for bringing telephone trunk lines to the most rural areas in Ireland (Litton 1961,86).
History has revealed that in “securing the Irish maritime perimeter against information on
Overlord [operational code name for the D-Day landings] leaking through Ireland”
(Kennedy 286), they played a role in the D-Day Landings, a turning point for the Allies in
their war against Germany, and they did so under the guise of neutrality.
Lambrick describes military remains as “tangible testimonies to past conflict” and that
they “have gaunt aesthetic qualities that have come to be appreciated because they are
recognised as history, not eyesores” (2004,xiii). This thesis has argued that the same is true
of the buildings of the Irish Marine and Coast-watching Service and that they stand as
contemporary memorials to Ireland’s unique wartime experience.
51
Bibliography
Anon., 2010. The Flag Press, the real WORD of Flags. [Online]
Available at: http://flagexpressions.wordpress.com/2010/03/23/history-behind-semaphore-flags/
[Accessed 10th August 2014].
Anon., 2014. County Wicklow Heritage. [Online]
Available at: http://www.countywicklowheritage.org/
[Accessed 17TH JULY 2014].
Anon., 2014. Defence of Britain Project. [Online]
Available at: http://www.archaeologyuk.org/cba/projects/DOB
[Accessed 7th August 2014].
Anon., 2014. English Heritage. [Online]
Available at: https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/professional/research/landscapes-and-
areas/characterisation/military-heritage/anti-invasion/
[Accessed 16th August 2014].
Anon., 2014. National Sites and Monuments. [Online]
Available at: www.archaeology.ie
[Accessed 16th August 2014].
Anon., 2014. Parish of Wicklow. [Online]
Available at: www.wicklowparish.ie
[Accessed 16th August 2014].
Anon., 2014. Science, How Stuff Works. [Online]
Available at: www.science.howstuffworks.com
[Accessed 16th August 2014].
Anon., 2014. Visit Wicklow. [Online]
Available at: www.visitwicklow.ie
[Accessed 6th August 2014].
Anon., 2014. Wicklow Peace and Rememberance Memorial Group. [Online]
Available at: http://www.wicklowpeaceremem.com/
[Accessed 9th August 2014].
Anon., 2014. Wicklows Historic Gaol 1702-1924. [Online]
Available at: www.wicklowshistoricgaol.ie
[Accessed 16th August 2014].
Bolton, J., 2010. The ruins of a republic. In: J. Hell & A. Schonle, eds. Ruins of Modernity. Michigan:
Duke University Press, pp. 118-132.
Caulfield, S., 2014. Professor [Interview] (29th July 2014).
52
Clarke, M., 1944. The Black Castle, Wicklow. The Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of
Ireland Seventh Series, 14(1), pp. 1-22.
Dwyer, T. R., 2009. Behind the Green Curtain, Ireland's Phoney Neutrality During World War II.
Dublin: Gill and Macmillan Ltd..
Ferriter, D., 2007. Judging DEV. Dublin: Royal Irish Academy.
Finlay, J., 2014. Chairperson. Wicklow Historical Society, 5(1), p. 1.
Girvan, B., 2006. The Emergency, Neutral Ireland 1939-45. London: Macmillan.
Kennedy, M., 2008. Guarding Neutral Ireland, The Coast Watching Service and Military
Intelligence, 1939-1945. Dublin: Four Courts Press Ltd..
Lambrick, G., 2004. Director CBA. In: J. Schofield, ed. Modern Military Matters. York: Council for
British Archaeology, p. Xiii.
Litton, A., 1964. The growth and developement of the Irish Telephone System. [Online]
Available at: <www.tara.tcd.ie/bitstream/2262/4617/1/jssisiVolXXPart5_79115.pdf>
[Accessed 7th August 2014].
Moshenska, G., 2012. The archaeology of the Second World War: Uncovering Britains's Wartime
Heritage. Barnsley: Pen and Sword Archaeology.
O'Carroll, D., 1986. The Guns of Dunree. Buncrana: Department of community, Rural and
Gaeltacht Affairs.
Schmelzer, T., 2011. Lookout Post. [Online]
Available at: www.Lookoutpost.com
[Accessed 2nd March 2014].
Schofield, J., 20004. Modern Military Matters, York: York Publishing Services Ltd.
Schofield, J., 2005. Combat Archaeology, Material Culture and Modern Conflict. London: Gerald
Duckworth and Co. Ltd..
Stout, G., 2002. Newgrange and the Bend of the Boyne. Cork: Cork University Press.
Wills, C., 2008. That Neutral Island. London: Faber and Faber.
53
Appendix 1
54
55
World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut
LOP No.6 - Howth, Co. Dublin
Record Sheet
www. Googlearth.com
Aerial view of site of Lookout Hut No. 6 Howth, Co. Dublin.
Level of Preservation 8
Irish Grid Reference O 29448, 37408 Accurate +/- 5.00m
GPS 53˚22’16.446N, 6˚3’21.132W
Orientation
Evidence of Eire Sign No
Date of Field Survey 13/05/2014
Appendix 2.
Scale indicating level of preservation
1 Building presents fully intact with roof
2 modified over the years
3 Building presents with all walls but roof
damaged or missing
4 Building presents with greater that 50% of
walls
5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls
6 Building presents only as rubble
7 Building evidenced only by concrete
floor/foundation
8 Building and all tracer evidence not in
existence.
56
Description:
Building does not exist. A carpark now occupies the site.
There is no evidence of Eire sign.
Field trip occurred on bright sunny day. Visibility was excellent and ocean sea
views extended approximately 180˚ degrees.
N
57
World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut
LOP No.7 - Dalkey, Co. Dublin
Record Sheet
East facing view of LOP foundation/floor Concrete area approx 3m to north of building
with bolt holes.
South facing view of LOP foundation with viewing bench North-West facing view of LOP foundation/floor
Level of Preservation 7
Irish Grid Reference O 27168, 26280 +/-5m
GPS 53˚16’17.47N, 6˚5’3679W
Orientation 76˚E
Evidence of Eire Sign No
Date of Field Survey 12/06/2014
Appendix 3.
Scale indicating level of preservation
1 Building presents fully intact with roof
2 modified over the years
3 Building presents with all walls but roof
damaged or missing
4 Building presents with greater that 50% of
walls
5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls
6 Building presents only as rubble
7 Building evidenced only by concrete
floor/foundation
8 Building and all tracer evidence not in
existence.
58
www.Googlearth.com
Aerial view of LOP No. 7 site at Dalkey, Co. Dublin
Description
Floor of building is evident and presents with customary rectangular shape
with a bay angled section at East end.
Markings on West end of concrete floor are consistent with the presence of a
fire-place (as is seen on other intact buildings)
Foundation/floor currently supports a public viewing bench.
Weather was sunny and bright on day of survey and sea views extended
approximately 180˚.
Approximately 3m to north of LOP site is a small concrete area approximately
150 x 150cm which contains bolt holes.
N
59
World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut
LOP No.8 - Bray , Co. WicklowRecord Sheet
North-east facing view of wall adjacent South facing of view walls adjacent to south
to south side of building foundation side of building foundation on which is
rubble from LOP building
South facing view of site in its wider landscape East facing view of walls adjacent to
setting Foundation.
Level of Preservation 6
Irish Grid Reference O 28794E, 15663N +/-5m
GPS 53˚10’33.05N, 6˚4’28.71W
Orientation 195˚, S.
Evidence of Eire Sign Potentially
Date of Field Survey 18th
May 2014
Appendix 4
Scale indicating level of preservation
1 Building presents fully intact with roof
2 modified over the years
3 Building presents with all walls but roof
damaged or missing
4 Building presents with greater that 50% of
walls
5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls
6 Building presents only as rubble
7 Building evidenced only by concrete
floor/foundation
8 Building and all tracer evidence not in
existence.
60
www.Googlearth.com
Aerial view of site of Lookout Post at Bray, Co. Wicklow.
Building presents only as rubble spread across foundation floor which appears to be
intact. There is evidence on the foundation of a fireplace on the western wall.
Rubble extends to the north and east of foundation.
On the south side of foundation /floor there remains three walls which appear to
have been located adjacent to the doorway, possibly a porch.
Some 15 meters eastwards, downhill there is evidence of a row of large stones
extending 10meters in length which may possibly have been connected to the
documented aerial EIRE sign.
N
N
61
62
World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut
LOP No.9 -Wicklow Head , Co. Wicklow
Record Sheet
West facing view of LOP North facing view of LOP
East facing view of LOP showing exterior Location of aerial EIRE sign( arrowed)
walled entrance (arrowed)
Level of Preservation 2
Irish Grid Reference T33196, 93030 +/-666.39m
GPS 52˚ 57’54.43N, 5˚59’58.52W.
Orientation 90˚E +/- 666.39m
Evidence of Eire Sign Yes
Date of Field Survey 6th
July 2014
Appendix 5
Scale indicating level of preservation
1 Building presents fully intact with roof
2 modified over the years
3 Building presents with all walls but roof
damaged or missing
4 Building presents with greater that 50% of
walls
5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls
6 Building presents only as rubble
7 Building evidenced only by concrete
floor/foundation
8 Building and all tracer evidence not in
existence.
63
www.Googlearth.com
Aerial view of Lookout Post at Wicklow Head, Co. Wicklow.
LOP is in current day use as a VHF Marine Service Radio Station. It has been
extensively altered over the years. The two front bay windows have been blocked up
and the chimney has been removed. There is a mast attached to the front of the
building and another in close proximity. There is a metal grill security door on
outside of door.
Building is enclosed by a high security wire fence.
On the southern side of the building there is a walled entrance way leading to the
door.
Entire site is accessed via a stone stairway on southern side with a metal handrail.
The weather was cloudy on day of field survey but the site still had extensive sea
views to the north, east and south.
There is evidence of the “R” and “E” from the aerial EIRE sign at east side of old
lighthouse. It is covered in grass but can still be deciphered.
N
N
64
World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut
LOP No.10 - Kilmichael Point, Co. Wexford
Record Sheet
West facing view of front of building East facing view of back of building
South facing view of side of building Interior of building showing fireplace filled with
sand and rubbish..
Level of Preservation 1
Irish Grid Reference T25356, 66169 Accurate +/- 5m
GPS 52˚43’55.86M, 6˚08’38.79W
Orientation 128˚, SE
Evidence of Eire Sign No
Date of Field Survey 02/06/2014
Appendix 6
Scale indicating level of preservation
1 Building presents fully intact with roof
2 modified over the years
3 Building presents with all walls but roof
damaged or missing
4 Building presents with greater that 50% of
walls
5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls
6 Building presents only as rubble
7 Building evidenced only by concrete
floor/foundation
8 Building and all tracer evidence not in
existence.
65
Description:
Basic structure presents fully intact. Missing door and window glass. Evidence of
cracking and structural deterioration on walls at front and back of building.
Fire-place in situ but filled with sand and rubbish.
Holes on north facing interior wall consistent with supports for shelving and/or
telephone apparatus. One hole containing evidence of wood within.
On south wall of building beside doorway evidence of an irregular shaped concrete
covered area approximately 1 x 0.75m. To right of this area evidence of a red
bricked feature buried for the most part by approximately 20-30cm of sand.
On the day of survey, weather was clear and sunny and there was extensive views
from the bay window area of the building for 180˚.
The surrounding landscape is covered in sand which supports a dense grassy
foliage. There was no obvious evidence of the aerial “EIRE” SIGN.
www. Googlearth.com
Aerial view of Lookout Hut No. 10 (arrowed) at Kilmichael Point, Co. Wexford.
N
52˚43’55.86N, 6˚08’38.79W
66
67
World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut
LOP No.11 -Cahore , Co. Wexford
Record Sheet
View of concrete blocks lying in situ at site of Lookout Post. Foundation floor appears to be
beneath rubble. Entire site is covered in dense foliage.
View of site position within wider landscape Sea view from East end of debris site
setting
Level of Preservation 6
Irish Grid Reference T22393, 47273 +/-5m
GPS 52˚33’96.44N, 6˚11.41.48W
Orientation 137˚SE
Evidence of Eire Sign No
Date of Field Survey 12th
June 2014
Appendix 7
Scale indicating level of preservation
1 Building presents fully intact with roof
2 modified over the years
3 Building presents with all walls but roof
damaged or missing
4 Building presents with greater that 50% of
walls
5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls
6 Building presents only as rubble
7 Building evidenced only by concrete
floor/foundation
8 Building and all tracer evidence not in
existence.
68
www.Googlearth.com
Aerial view of site of Lookout Post at Cahore Co. Wexford.
Building presents as rubble lying within dense foliage/scrub. Concrete
foundation/floor appears to lie beneath rubble.
Debris field extended approximately 4 x 3.8m.
Weather on day of field survey was sunny and bright and there were extensive sea
views from LOP position to the North, East and South.
N
N
69
World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut
LOP No.12 – Ballyconnigar Hill, Co. Wexford
Record Sheet
South facing view of eroded area of LOP site North facing view of eroded area of LOP site
West facing view of eroded LOP site from beach Letter to chief of Staff, Dept of Defence
showing grid reference for LOP at
Ballyconnigar Hill
Level of Preservation 8
Irish Grid Reference T14433, 33538 approx
GPS 53˚10’33.05N, 6˚4’28.71W approx
Orientation 146˚SE approx.
Evidence of Eire Sign No
Date of Field Survey 19th
June 2014
Appendix 8
Scale indicating level of preservation
1 Building presents fully intact with roof
2 modified over the years
3 Building presents with all walls but roof
damaged or missing
4 Building presents with greater that 50% of
walls
5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls
6 Building presents only as rubble
7 Building evidenced only by concrete
floor/foundation
8 Building and all tracer evidence not in
existence.
70
www.Googlearth.com
Aerial view of site of Lookout Post at Ballyconnigar Hill, Co. Wexford with possible hut location
Extensive coastal erosion of the area has eradicated all trace of the LOP building and
its site. Site is only evidenced by documentary evidence within the Military Archives
which gives the grid reference as “3240-1345” (old Irish Military Refs), (IA/MA
EDP/30)
Weather was sunny and bright on day of field survey and sea views were extensive to
the North, East and South.
N
N
71
World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut
LOP No.13 - Greenore Point , Co. Wexford
Record Sheet
South West facing view of LOP North facing view of LOP building
View of interior of building showing fireplace Greenore Lop in wider landscape setting
and interior wall. Also note cut-out mark arrowed
at entrance.
Level of Preservation 1
Irish Grid Reference T15118, 11192+/-5m
GPS 52˚14’26.00N, 6˚ 18’52.60W
Orientation 59˚NE
Evidence of Eire Sign No
Date of Field Survey 18th
June 2014
Appendix 9
Scale indicating level of preservation
1 Building presents fully intact with roof
2 modified over the years
3 Building presents with all walls but roof
damaged or missing
4 Building presents with greater that 50% of
walls
5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls
6 Building presents only as rubble
7 Building evidenced only by concrete
floor/foundation
8 Building and all tracer evidence not in
existence.
72
www.Googlearth.com
Aerial view of site of Lookout Post at Greenore, Co. Wexford
Building presents as fully intact and in very good condition.
There is a square section marked out by indentation of concrete at doorway, perhaps
to collect water.
Weather was fine and sunny on day of field survey and visibility of the sea to the
north, east and south was exceptionally good.
N
N
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014
Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014

More Related Content

Similar to Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014

Archaeological report - Tobarjarleth, Tuam, Co. Galway
Archaeological report - Tobarjarleth, Tuam, Co. GalwayArchaeological report - Tobarjarleth, Tuam, Co. Galway
Archaeological report - Tobarjarleth, Tuam, Co. GalwayJohn Tierney
 
Ardmore Names and Places 2013
Ardmore Names and Places 2013Ardmore Names and Places 2013
Ardmore Names and Places 2013John Tierney
 
QUAKER BURIAL GROUND CORK STREET HOW TO RESTORE, COMMEMORATE, AND CELEBRATE ...
QUAKER BURIAL GROUND CORK STREET  HOW TO RESTORE, COMMEMORATE, AND CELEBRATE ...QUAKER BURIAL GROUND CORK STREET  HOW TO RESTORE, COMMEMORATE, AND CELEBRATE ...
QUAKER BURIAL GROUND CORK STREET HOW TO RESTORE, COMMEMORATE, AND CELEBRATE ...kieran rose
 
Chapple, R. M. 2014 People and Their Worlds. UCD Archaeological Research Semi...
Chapple, R. M. 2014 People and Their Worlds. UCD Archaeological Research Semi...Chapple, R. M. 2014 People and Their Worlds. UCD Archaeological Research Semi...
Chapple, R. M. 2014 People and Their Worlds. UCD Archaeological Research Semi...Robert M Chapple
 
Chapple, R. M. 2014 Archaeology of Gatherings Conference | Institute of Techn...
Chapple, R. M. 2014 Archaeology of Gatherings Conference | Institute of Techn...Chapple, R. M. 2014 Archaeology of Gatherings Conference | Institute of Techn...
Chapple, R. M. 2014 Archaeology of Gatherings Conference | Institute of Techn...Robert M Chapple
 
Essay Patch Adams
Essay Patch AdamsEssay Patch Adams
Essay Patch AdamsAndrea Ngo
 
sqsw-seaquest-summary-report-2014
sqsw-seaquest-summary-report-2014sqsw-seaquest-summary-report-2014
sqsw-seaquest-summary-report-2014Tom Horton
 
Precise Time Synchronization (pdf)
Precise Time Synchronization (pdf)Precise Time Synchronization (pdf)
Precise Time Synchronization (pdf)Tom Logsdon
 

Similar to Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014 (14)

PBPL 85 2014 Fall Term Final Report on the Northern Ireland Peace Process
PBPL 85 2014 Fall Term Final Report on the Northern Ireland Peace ProcessPBPL 85 2014 Fall Term Final Report on the Northern Ireland Peace Process
PBPL 85 2014 Fall Term Final Report on the Northern Ireland Peace Process
 
United Kingdom
United KingdomUnited Kingdom
United Kingdom
 
Youths
YouthsYouths
Youths
 
Archaeological report - Tobarjarleth, Tuam, Co. Galway
Archaeological report - Tobarjarleth, Tuam, Co. GalwayArchaeological report - Tobarjarleth, Tuam, Co. Galway
Archaeological report - Tobarjarleth, Tuam, Co. Galway
 
Ardmore Names and Places 2013
Ardmore Names and Places 2013Ardmore Names and Places 2013
Ardmore Names and Places 2013
 
Iasc world oceans day
Iasc world oceans dayIasc world oceans day
Iasc world oceans day
 
QUAKER BURIAL GROUND CORK STREET HOW TO RESTORE, COMMEMORATE, AND CELEBRATE ...
QUAKER BURIAL GROUND CORK STREET  HOW TO RESTORE, COMMEMORATE, AND CELEBRATE ...QUAKER BURIAL GROUND CORK STREET  HOW TO RESTORE, COMMEMORATE, AND CELEBRATE ...
QUAKER BURIAL GROUND CORK STREET HOW TO RESTORE, COMMEMORATE, AND CELEBRATE ...
 
Chapple, R. M. 2014 People and Their Worlds. UCD Archaeological Research Semi...
Chapple, R. M. 2014 People and Their Worlds. UCD Archaeological Research Semi...Chapple, R. M. 2014 People and Their Worlds. UCD Archaeological Research Semi...
Chapple, R. M. 2014 People and Their Worlds. UCD Archaeological Research Semi...
 
Chapple, R. M. 2014 Archaeology of Gatherings Conference | Institute of Techn...
Chapple, R. M. 2014 Archaeology of Gatherings Conference | Institute of Techn...Chapple, R. M. 2014 Archaeology of Gatherings Conference | Institute of Techn...
Chapple, R. M. 2014 Archaeology of Gatherings Conference | Institute of Techn...
 
Ireland
IrelandIreland
Ireland
 
Ireland
IrelandIreland
Ireland
 
Essay Patch Adams
Essay Patch AdamsEssay Patch Adams
Essay Patch Adams
 
sqsw-seaquest-summary-report-2014
sqsw-seaquest-summary-report-2014sqsw-seaquest-summary-report-2014
sqsw-seaquest-summary-report-2014
 
Precise Time Synchronization (pdf)
Precise Time Synchronization (pdf)Precise Time Synchronization (pdf)
Precise Time Synchronization (pdf)
 

Glynis Ryan Thesis 19th Aug 2014

  • 1. An archaeological study of the Lookout Posts of the Irish Coastwatching Service 1939-1945 Author : Glynis Ryan The thesis is submitted to University College Dublin in part fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of archaeology. School of Archaeology Supervisor : Dr. Graeme Warren August 2014
  • 2. i Table of Contents Appendices......................................................................................................................................... ii List of Abreviations............................................................................................................................ iii Acknowledgements........................................................................................................................... iv Abstract:............................................................................................................................................. v Chapter 1. Introduction:....................................................................................................................1 1.1 The Defence of Britain Project and associated research. ........................................................2 1.1.2 Schofield’s Research Agenda for Britains Military Heritage..............................................3 1.2 This Project...............................................................................................................................4 1.2.1 Methodology.....................................................................................................................4 1.3 The potential within the archaeology:.....................................................................................5 Chapter 2 Historical Background......................................................................................................7 2.1 The establishment of Ireland’s “Marine and Coast-Watching Service”...................................9 2.2. Lookout Post Hut Construction.............................................................................................11 2.3 Aerial EIRE Signs .....................................................................................................................15 Chapter 3. The archaeology ...........................................................................................................17 3.1. Field Surveys..........................................................................................................................17 3.3. Analysis of data generated by field survey. ..........................................................................20 3.3.1. Conservation ..................................................................................................................21 3.3.2 Orientation and fields of vision......................................................................................21 Chapter 4 :Discussion.......................................................................................................................23 4.1 Lookout Post huts..................................................................................................................23 4.2. Aerial EIRE signs ....................................................................................................................28 4.3. Other buildings of the Emergency Defence Plan. ................................................................32 4.3.1 Pillbox and LOP Comparison ...........................................................................................33 C hapter 5 – Wicklow Head Case Study ...........................................................................................37 5.1. The aerial EIRE sign at Wicklow Head. ..................................................................................42 5.2. Wicklow Town’s Heritage......................................................................................................44 Chapter 6 - Conclusion:....................................................................................................................47 Bibliography .....................................................................................................................................51
  • 3. ii Appendices Appendix 1 Letter from Office of Research Ethics re: HS-14-Ryan-Warren 53 Appendix 2 Record Sheet - LOP 6 - Howth, Co. Dublin 55 Appendix 3 Record Sheet – LOP 7- Dalkey, Co. Dublin 57 Appendix 4 Record Sheet – LOP 8- Bray, Co. Wicklow 59 Appendix 5 Record Sheet – LOP 9- Wicklow Head, Co. Wicklow 62 Appendix 6 Record Sheet – LOP 10- Kilmichael, Co. Wexford 64 Appendix 7 Record Sheet – LOP 11- Cahore, Co. Wexford 67 Appendix 8 Record Sheet – LOP 12- Ballyconnigar Hill, Co. Wexford 69 Appendix 9 Record Sheet- LOP 13- Greenore Point, Co. Wexford 71 Appendix 10 Record Sheet- LOP 14- Carnsore Point, Co. Wexford 73 Appendix 11 Record Sheet-LOP 15- Forlorn Point, Co. Wexford 75 Appendix 12 Record Sheet-LOP 63- Benwee Head, Co. Mayo 77 Appendix 13 Record Sheet-LOP 64- Downpatrick Head, Co. Mayo 79 Appendix 14 Record Sheet-LOP 65- Kilcummen, Co. Mayo 81 Appendix 15 Record Sheet-LOP 66- Lenadoon, Co. Sligo 83 Appendix 16 Record Sheet-LOP 67- Aughris, Co. Sligo 85 Appendix 17 Record Sheet-LOP 68- Rosskeeragh, Co. Sligo 87 Appendix 18 Record Sheet-LOP 69- Mullaghmore, Co. Sligo 89 Appendix 19 Record Sheet-LOP 70- St. Johns Point, Co. Donegal 92 Appendix 20 Record Sheet-LOP 71- Carrigan Head, Co. Donegal 94 Appendix 21 Record Sheet-LOP72- Rossan Point, Co. Donegal 96
  • 4. iii List of Abreviations LOP Lookout Post MA Military Archives G2 Irish Military Intelligence LDF Local Defence Force LSF Local Security Force CBA Council For British Archaeology EDP Emergency Defence Plan
  • 5. iv Acknowledgements Sincere thanks to my ever-patient supervisor, Dr. Graeme Warren for everything. For initially agreeing to “take me on”, for his encouragement, support, guidance and most of all, his all-round pleasantness in helping me produce this thesis. I am also greatly indebted to Dr. Robert Sands for providing technical expertise in the production of this thesis. Thanks also to Professor Seamus Caulfield for his comments on the Downpatrick Lookout and for sharing his experience of excavating the Downpatrick EIRE sign. Also my Wicklow Town informant who unfortunately must remain anonymous. My heartfelt thanks also to my husband John for accompanying me on so many field trips, for battling the nettles, carrying the ranging rods and making me smile. Thanks also to my son Conor for proof-reading, editing and providing the missing word that was always on the tip of my tongue! Finally thanks also to my many other field trip companions, my daughter Jennifer, my friends Joan and Marion and my cousin Sheila. Last but not least thanks to my sister Patricia who welcomed me into her home for my West Coast surveys and tackled the wild west coastline with me in the name of archaeology. Thanks to you all!
  • 6. v Abstract: The outbreak of World War 2 occurred at a pivotal time in Ireland’s transition from dominion state to autonomous nation. As an emerging nation which for hundreds of years had been reliant (albeit reluctantly) on a world super-power for protection, Ireland found herself politically isolated and geographically situated in the middle of what was to become a world-wide conflict. In a highly controversial decision, Head of Government Eamonn DeValera opted to remain neutral, a decision which was to govern the foreign and domestic policies of Ireland for the duration of the war. This thesis is an investigation into one aspect of the physical manifestation of this decision. As part of the Emergency Defence Plan, “The Irish Marine and Coastwatching Service” was founded. This service operated from 82 hastily constructed Lookout huts constructed 5 to 15 miles apart along 1,970 miles of coastline. They were manned by Defence personnel and volunteers from the local communities 24 hours a day, seven days a week for the duration of the war, their purpose being to observe and report to army district command headquarters on the aerial and shipping activity on the State’s coastline and provide advance warning of any threatened incursion of Irish neutrality. They were Ireland’s first line of defence in what became a monumental world-wide conflict and as such are an important part of Irelands built heritage, however they remain largely ignored and unappreciated; their contribution to Ireland’s narrative in the most part unknown. They enjoy no protection from the State and are slowly disappearing from our landscape. The aim of this project is to create an archaeological photographic record of a sample of these buildings and their associated features. It will record their position and orientation, assess their current state of preservation and in combination with an interview with a person who has first hand memories of these buildings (from the community of Wicklow Town), it will seek to compare these memories with both the archaeological evidence and the historical record. Finally a discussion of the project findings will highlight the urgent need for recognition of these buildings by the state heritage sector and
  • 7. vi an even greater need for more archaeological investigation which includes accessing and recording the thoughts of the war-time generation, a now time-sensitive resource.
  • 8. 1 Chapter 1. Introduction: During the six years it unfolded, World War 2 killed in excess of 60 million people. It wiped cities and towns off the face of the earth, changed country’s boundaries and caused the voluntary and involuntary displacement of entire populations (Moshenska 2012,1). As may be expected, much has been written and continues to be written on the why, how, where and when of such a conflict and historians have a vast array of archival evidence from which to form an opinion. However, there is another perspective that must be considered if future generations are to be presented with a more rounded account. The physical remnants of structures or artefacts from the era tell their own story and an archaeological approach to their interpretation holds the potential of revealing to a much greater extent, the human experience of involvement in this conflict. ‘Involvement’ took many forms and whilst for some countries this meant that their armed forces were engaged in overt combat and their territories were turned into battlefields, for others it meant providing manpower and resources from afar to support their chosen side. The belligerent camps were represented by the Allies on one side and the Axis forces on the other. For obvious reasons historians of this time have concentrated on these two groups however there was a third group whose involvement, while passive, ultimately proved substantial. This group consisted of five countries who declared their ‘neutrality’ – Ireland, Sweden, Switzerland, Portugal and Spain. ‘Neutrality’ was not “non- involvement’ but rather a form of involvement which, in trying to protect and preserve its own structural integrity, strove to be of no help or hindrance to either side in the conflict. The reasons behind the ‘neutrality’ decision differed for each country and ranged from geographical location to a historic tradition of non-alignment, however in each case this passive involvement took both effort and resources. Clair Wills, exploring the social experience of being a ‘neutral’ state describes it as “a ghostly existence” being both in and outside the war, of being on “the edge of total war and responding to chains of events outside its control”(2008,11). This thesis will seek to reveal, through the discipline of archaeology, one such response. Focusing on the extensive network of 82 Coast-Watching Lookout Posts (LOPs) that were hurriedly constructed at the beginning of the war, the structures will initially be sited
  • 9. 2 within their historic context, their role elucidated and their success or otherwise in fulfilling this role outlined. Schofield maintains that “the immediacy and the relevance of twentieth century war” has fuelled a public desire for more information on the “impact of warfare and militarisation on society” and that furthermore “People want to visit the remaining structures, they have an interest and that interest is burgeoning” (2004, 2). The Lookout Post sites of the Irish Marine and Coastwatching Service are a physical example of Ireland’s political ideology during the wartime years however to a large extent they have been allowed to disappear from the historical narrative. They are not protected and so do not benefit from the public exposure such protection brings and their function and history exists only in the awareness of a few. Schofield says of military sites that they are important “for reasons of memory, commemoration and sense of place” and that both archaeology and historical research “can contribute much to understanding – and thus to commemorating and remembering – twentieth century warfare, and hopefully learning lessons from it” (2004, 2). Ireland’s LOP sites hold just such a possibility. Given the widespread nature of their locations, their potential for contributing to local cultural heritages is substantial. The LOP huts were manned by local people with local lives, agendas and beliefs and the record of how they experienced the war, what they thought important enough to report and how they engaged with their role of ‘national frontline defender’ is arguably reflective of wider societal ideology. However they are becoming an endangered resource, vulnerable to both the passage of time and the march of progress and thus a pro-active conservation and/or recording agenda is now urgently required. 1.1 The Defence of Britain Project and associated research. Recognising the need to record the 20th century militarised landscape in Britain, the Council for British Archaeology (CBA) spearheaded a drive to record all military sites built around Britain during the 20th century. The research was carried out between April 1995 and December 2001 and resulted in a database that consisted of more than 20,000 records collected by a volunteer force of 600 people undertaking field and documentary work. This database formed the basis of what became The Defence of Britain Project, the
  • 10. 3 purpose of which was to “inform the responsible heritage agencies at both local and national level with a view to the future preservation of surviving structures” (Defence of Britain Project). In 2002, using the records generated by this project, English Heritage went on to undertake a specific study of the anti-invasion defence structures that were built in England during World War 2, maintaining that “these places have particular relevance for understanding the logic of defence and its impact upon the pre-war landscape” (www.english- heritage.org.uk) and two years later Schofield suggested the agenda hereunder as a continuing strategy to “priorities and focus research into recent military heritage” (2004, 37). 1.1.2 Schofield’s Research Agenda for Britains Military Heritage a) Improve understanding of built resource: To continue to investigate what was built, where and when, and what form the sites took, using appropriate sources (eg documents, field remains, aerial photography). b) Improve understanding of the surviving resources: To continue the process of researching and documenting the surviving remains of sites and monuments of this period, whether through aerial, geophysical, remote sensing or field survey (including submerged environments), and at a national, regional or local scale. c) Pressures and Perceptions: Determining and assessing the various pressures that affect twentieth-century military remains, and changing perceptions of them. d) Methodologies : to explore new approaches to modern military heritage and to ensure its integration with other related agenda, such as sustainability, social inclusion and the related fields of philosophy, sociology, geography and archaeology. e) Management principles and frameworks: Ensuring appropriate and effective measures and procedures are in place to preserve and manage twentieth century military resources alongside those of the more distant past. f) Articulation, co-ordination and publication: Co-ordinating the objectives and aspirations of the many groups, individuals and specialised archaeological organisations and agencies who seek to develop an understanding of the scale and logic of militarisation in Britain throughout the twentieth century, for the purposes
  • 11. 4 of better working practices, and improved understanding and awareness. This should be achieved through cooperation and networking, the university sector and voluntary and local organisation being key players. Ireland to-date, has had limited archaeological research work carried out into it’s World War 2 built military heritage (Geraldine Stout’s work on the WW2 pillboxes of the Boyne Valley a notable exception (Stout 2002)) and whilst the history of the Irish Marine and Coast-watching Service has been explored by Michael Kennedy in his book “Guarding Neutral Ireland: The Coast Watching Service and Military Intelligence 1939-1945” (Kennedy 2008), the LOP sites have not been investigated archaeologically,despite the fact that they date to the very birth of the nation and are connected to the first major ‘international’ decision made by the fledgling state. The multi-disciplined, integrated approach to 20th century military heritage, so much a feature of the British agenda (as demonstrated above) is arguably lacking in the Irish context. Thus though the scale of this current project is but a fraction of the Defence of Britain Project, it is envisioned as a very early step into the eventual recording of independent Irelands’ entire 20th century militarised landscape which should then be brought to the attention of those charged with protection of the State’s cultural heritage. 1.2 This Project The main objective of this thesis is to produce a baseline, point-in-time record of the aspect, orientation and level of conservation of twenty of the subject sites and a framework for the future recording of the remaining 62. 1.2.1 Methodology In the spirit of the methodology suggested by Schofield in his agenda above, a multi- disciplined approach will be employed in producing the archaeological record which is the subject of this project. It will be created by a systematic photographic and observational survey of ten sites on the east coast and ten on the west coast, with the level of conservation established by reference to a pre-determined scale. An important element of the survey is the recording of the orientation of each LOP which will facilitate the creation of a graphic showing the theoretical field of vision of the subject LOPs in unison.
  • 12. 5 The historic setting of the project will be established by exploring the primary source documents from the ‘Emergency Period’ which are held within the Irish Military Archives and include the correspondence of the Department of Defence, the correspondence of G2 (Irish Military Intelligence) and the Log books of the LOPs which are the subject of this project. Additionally, the findings of an in-depth case study of the post at Wicklow Head that will include the personal memories, knowledge and folklore of a contemporary witness, will be documented, providing a social perspective of the site and a verbal archive for comparison with both the historic military data and the archaeological evidence. A necessary step within this methodology, and one not usually associated with archaeological research, concerns the protection of the material witness. For the sake of good order, ethical clearance has been sought from the Research Ethics Department of University College Dublin, in order to carry out the aforementioned interview. Following a robust clearance process which included the pre-clearance of interview questions and the written assurance that the witness should not be identified, Ethical Clearance was granted under Reference No. HS-14-34-Ryan-Warren (appendix 1) and any contribution made by this witness will be cited within this thesis as “Informant 1” . An additional resource to the verbal archive will be the thoughts of Professor of archaeology, Seamus Caulfield who at the present time is excavating the aerial EIRE sign at Downpatrick Head and has agreed to a discussion on the project. Analysis of the field survey data will compare the results from the east and west coasts and offer an interpretation of any findings thus endeavouring to expose what Schofield terms the “human condition, social context and experience” (2005,80) of those who built, inhabited and lived with these structures and in doing so, demonstrate the hidden ideology of these sites, above and beyond their original purpose. 1.3 The potential within the archaeology: Moshenska, commenting on the archaeology of the second world war in Britain, says “The archaeology and the records of those remains will serve as a testimony to the wartime generation long after they have passed; the duty of archaeologists is to bring the traces of the Second World War to life again to illuminate the lives and experiences of the people who worked, fought and died among them”(2012,xiii). Though thankfully the Irish Coast-
  • 13. 6 watching service was spared the trauma of “fighting and dying” in the course of their duty, they were part of the Irish “wartime generation” and their work provided them with ringside seats to the war as it unfolded in the skies and oceans surrounding Ireland (Kennedy 2008,13). Furthermore the work that they carried out from these Lookout Post sites, in part “underpinned the defence of neutral Ireland” (Kennedy 2008, 13) and when considered retrospectively “shows how the parameters of neutrality were re-negotiated during the course of the war” (Kennedy 2008, 310). They and the accoutrements of their wartime existence are therefore, worthy representatives of Ireland’s wartime experience.
  • 14. 7 Chapter 2 Historical Background Whilst each of the neutral countries had their own reasons for declaring neutrality, in Ireland’s case the reasons were complex and extended far beyond the concerns of political power and government. Thus to understand ‘neutrality’ from the Irish perspective and consequently understand the material culture of this period it is necessary to cite the archaeology within its historic context. The twenty three years prior to the outbreak of war had seen Ireland grapple with the tantalisingly close but elusive concept of independence. The many centuries of resistance to British rule which had culminated with the 1916 republican rising had been followed by the War of Independence resulting in the Anglo-Irish Treaty of 1921. This treaty, apart from partitioning the island into the Irish Free State and the six counties of Northern Ireland under complete British rule, gave the Irish Free State ‘dominion’ status and crucially allowed the British to retain control of the three ports of Lough Swilly, Berehaven and Queenstown and “the right to any other Irish bases they might desire in time of war”(Dwyer 2009,1). It also split the population into pro-treaty and anti-treaty camps leading to the Civil war of 1922-23. Republican leader and anti-treaty proponent Eamonn DeValera split from Sinn Fein in 1926 and formed the new Fianna Fail party before finally coming to power in 1932. The following years saw DeValera slowly chip away at the established norms of a dominion state by abolishing the Oath of Allegiance, ending the payment of land annuities and instigating the Irish Nationality and Citizenship Act of 1935 (Ferriter, 2007,123) however, it was with the ratification of Bunreacht Na hEireann in 1937 that Ireland finally struck out as an independent country of Europe with its own laws and institutions, independent of any other jurisdiction. The following year DeValera finally got back the treaty ports of Loughswilly, Berehaven and Queenstown, a move that was to prove of crucial importance to the decisions that were to follow when War was declared, just one year later. Described by Churchill as “Sentinel Towers of Western Approaches”(quoted in O’Carroll 1986, 10), DeValera referred to the ports as “not only a symbol of independence but an establishment of independence” (O’Carroll 1986,10) thus the events of the era assigned a lasting geopolitical framework with which to interpret the wider significance of relatively simple structures. This assignment of political significance and symbolism would prove to be as true of the Lookout Posts sites as it was of the treaty ports.
  • 15. 8 Ireland’s geographic position was a concern for the Allied countries, especially Britain. Director of Military Intelligence for Ireland Colonel Dan Bryan outlined the problem even before the war when he wrote “Ireland by geographical position lies across and controls the communications of Great Britain with all the outside world save only that considerable but far more preponderant portion which borders the North Sea and Baltic” (quoted in Kennedy 2008, 14). Furthermore the experience and extent of unrestricted submarine warfare off the Irish Coast during the First World War made the concept of fighting an Atlantic war without access to the Irish Ports a considerable worry (Kennedy 2008, 14). Ireland’s geopolitical position therefore created a potential weak spot in Britain's defences, one which Churchill was eager to plug. It should be remembered however that given the long history of Irish-British relations, there was within DeValera’s government a deep suspicion of Britain. Thus despite the requests and bargaining ploys of Churchill, including an offer in principle of Irish Unity (Wills 2007, 386), DeValera was not about to loosen his grip on such a hard won independence and declared the country’s neutrality in what he referred to as “The Emergency”. “Neutrality” was to be DeValera’s method of asserting Ireland’s independence and as Dwyer (2009,1) states “...demonstrating independence became the imperative of the country’s foreign policy in succeeding years”. DeValera however was not alone in his pre-occupation with neutrality. In a report to the Dominions office in 1942 Sir John Maffey, the British representative to Ireland described the national sentiment as follows “In the country at large neutrality is no longer merely a policy. It has become a principle, almost a faith”(quoted in Dwyer 2009,197). The concept of ‘neutrality’ had infiltrated the popular psyche and evolved as a public appendage incorporating an emerging cultural identity. Consequently, the accoutrements of this neutrality, the buildings and structures put in place to defend it, also took on these same characteristics and became the physical manifestations of these sentiments, the LOPs of the Irish Marine and Coast Watching service being a prime example. Notwithstanding this ‘neutral fervour’, it will be argued that the archaeological record shows these sentiments to have altered over the course of the war supporting Maffey’s comment that “when the principle of neutrality is not publicly and violently outraged, the Éire authorities endeavour to solve the problems which the war brings in a manner favourable to us” (Dwyer 2009,197) and on another occasion “ Hateful as their neutrality
  • 16. 9 is, it has been a neutrality friendly to our cause”(Dwyer 2009, 131). Whilst undoubtedly the agreement to the establishment of what was known as the “Donegal Corridor” (whereby Ireland permitted Allied planes to fly over neutral territory to reach their bases in the counties of Northern Ireland) is the most well known example of this ‘friendly neutrality”, the archaeological evidence of the aerial EIRE signs bears physical testament to this neutral bias, as they included the number of the associated LOP which turned them into ‘navigational aids’(Kennedy 2008, 244). 2.1 The establishment of Ireland’s “Marine and Coast-Watching Service” Neutrality brought with it its own problems. Ireland’s location between Britain and the western world and lying close to the trade routes of Europe (Kennedy 2008, 14) meant that it held the potential to be strategically important to both Britain and Germany. It was apparent some action would be required to guard Ireland’s neutrality. As a country however, Ireland was virtually defenceless. It had no real navy, an underfunded and badly equipped army and an air corps consisting of 13 planes (Kennedy 2008, 89). As mentioned above, Colonel Dan Bryan had for the previous decade recognised Ireland’s vulnerability in this area and had long been a proponent of establishing a coast-watching service, but it was prior to the outbreak of war during the Munich Crisis of September 1938 that this vulnerability was finally acknowledge and the establishment of the Coast Watching Service became a reality (Kennedy 2008,16). It was decided by the Department of Defence, headed by Minister of Defence Frank Aiken that a network of observational posts be established around the entire coast of the Eire to observe and report on any violation of, or threat to, Irish neutrality (Kennedy 2008,16) . The coast-watching service would be run by “...an officer at the rank of Commandant assisted by a civilian specialist in nautical matters” (Kennedy 2008, 21) and it would report to the District Military Command. By April of 1939 the service was ready to start the recruitment of 800 volunteers and advertisements were duly published in all national newspapers (see Fig.1).
  • 17. 10 Fig 1. Recruitment advertisement, Irish Press Saturday 29th April 1939 http://www.irishnewsarchive.com/Default/Skins/INA/Client.asp?Skin=INA&enter=true&AppName=2&AW=1355770101461 Britain was also anxious that a comprehensive coast-watching scheme be put in place, not only for the reasons outlined above but also because Ireland, if invaded by Germany, could facilitate an easier invasion of Britain. It was with this motivation that at this early set-up stage, the British Admiralty became involved in an advisory capacity and the seeds of British-Irish intelligence co-operation were sown (Kennedy 2008, 24) a co-operation that would continue to grow throughout the war years.
  • 18. 11 2.2. Lookout Post Hut Construction On the 3rd of September 1939, with the declaration of war on Germany by Britain and France, DeValera passed the Emergency Powers Act and declared its commitment to neutrality (Wills 2008,2) By this time the “Marine and Coast-Watching Service” existed in “rudimentary form” (Kennedy 2008, 32). Recruitment had in fact outstripped the construction of the Lookout posts and with the outbreak of war the personnel were initially required to operate out of army tents. However by 19th of September 1939 the design of the lookout post huts was agreed between Office of Public Works architect,W.H. Howard Cooke and the Director of Military Engineering (Kennedy 2008,49) and so the form of the physical landscape of the entire coast area of Ireland was to be altered and militarised to suit the needs of the newly formed state. It is worthy of note that Martello Towers and Coast-watching Towers were already in existence along the Irish coastline since the early 19th century. The LOP building programme was not therefore the first militarisation of the Irish landscape, however these earlier buildings were the work of a different state with different priorities and agenda’s. In correspondence written by Commander Seamus O’Muiris, Directory of the Irish Marine Service, to The Chief of Staff Office, G2 Branch on 10th February 1943, the difference between the two different coast-watching services is proffered when he wrote.. “ The Coast Guard stations used during the last war were sited to give accessibility by land and in many cases patrols had to go long distances before a good view seaward could be obtained. The system therefore supplies a much more efficient service than that provided by the old system of Coast Guard stations since the whole coastline is kept under continuous observation under normal conditions” (MA/G2/X/318) Many of the LOPs were actually built adjacent to or in close proximity to these existing earlier structures, but there were many more located between these locations, all working in unison. However the fact that where the chosen location of the new LOP coincided with that of the old Coast Guard buildings, the state still chose to build their own building,
  • 19. 12 highlights the recognition of these differences and the underlying determination of the new state to stamp it’s own identity on the frontiers of the country (Fig 2). Fig 2. LOP no. 5 at Rush, Co. Dublin built adjacent to existing Martello Tower. The construction of the LOPs represents one of the largest engineering exercises undertaken by the Irish Defence Forces during the Second World War. It involved planning and constructing positions at strategic locations along a 1,970 mile coastline from Ballagan Point in Louth to Inishowen Head in Donegal (Schmelzer 2011). Each hut was to be built from one design and constructed from 137 pre-cast 4” concrete blocks. The huts were to be 9ft wide and 13ft long with a large bay-window made up of six angled windows on the coast end of the building. On the right wall at the rear was the door which opened into a porch. At the rear wall of the building there was a fireplace (Kennedy 2008, 49), (Fig 3 refers). The archaeology however will demonstrate how some buildings deviated from this plan. www.lookoutpost.com
  • 20. 13 Fig. 3 Section drawing from architect W.H. Howard Cooke’s LOP plans. Kennedy maintains that by 9th March 1940 all the huts had been constructed (2008,51). They were basic, vastly inadequate to cope with the weather given their exposed coastal positions and poorly built given the urgency of their construction but they were also the first nation-wide physical manifestation of the intent of the Irish people – to remain independent and neutral. However, perhaps their biggest flaw, when they were initially constructed, was that they had no means of communication other than by travelling, sometimes as far as eight miles, by bike to the nearest Garda station or Post Office in order to telephone their District Command (Kennedy 2008,45). In 1939 the Irish telephone network was in its infancy and though there were lines in Dublin which facilitated connection of the Lookouts at Howth, Dalkey and Wicklow quite early on, some of the posts on the west coast remained unconnected until late in 1940 and two located in Kerry were never connected at all (Kennedy 2008,47). Kennedy sums up this weakness in stating “Bicycles and the local post office or Garda station telephone were of no use for reporting a fast low-flying aircraft as the aircraft would be long gone by the time its presence was reported up the chain of command (2008,43). He further recounts the documented experience of Lookout personnel at Roonagh, Co. Mayo who, in Courtesy of the National Archives of Ireland
  • 21. 14 attempting to phone through information to G2 in the middle of the night was informed by the on-duty Garda that no connection was possible until the post-office opened the following day (Kennedy 2008, 44). However, with the fall of France on 25th June 1940, the government prioritised the connection of all LOPs to the telephone network “as a matter of extreme urgency” (Litton 1961,86). Over 100 miles of new pole route were erected to some of the most remote and inaccessible locations in Ireland along with hundreds of miles of trunk lines. This monumental task was completed within the months of June and July of 1940 (Litton 1961, 86-87). Fig 4. LOP no. 69 at Mullaghmore with phone line still in situ, embedded in the concrete at the top of the left hand side wall
  • 22. 15 Fig 5. Holes in interior left hand side wall of LOP 69 at Mullaghmore where arguably the phone apparatus was installed. These holes are evident in all of the LOPs within this study, where the left hand side wall exists. 2.3 Aerial EIRE Signs The EIRE signs that were constructed in the early summer of 1943 adjacent to each LOP around the coastline were a practical solution to an ongoing problem. Kennedy maintains that in the eleven months from April 1943 to March 1944, 21,000 military aircraft flew near or over Ireland. Of the 12,000 that could be identified 99.65% were allied aircrafts and during the same period there were 40 forced landings on Irish territory (2008, 244). The signs were primarily intended to warn aircrafts that they were flying over neutral Ireland. It would appear however that their construction was at the behest of the United States as documentary evidence in the form of a telegram (dated 21st December 1943) from the US envoy to Ireland, David Gray, informs the US Secretary of State, Cordell Hull, that they had “been erected as a result, at least partially, of the efforts of’ the American legation in Dublin (quoted in Kennedy 2008, 244). Also in this same telegram, Gray refers to the LOP numbers saying, “Any pilot with the aid of the key map can find
  • 23. 16 his location” (quoted in Kennedy 2008, 247). These numbers had been added at the request of the US Air Force in June of 1943 (Kennedy 2008, 244). This being the case, the construction of the numbered signs can be interpreted as a breach of neutrality by Ireland in favour of the Allies and consequently the archaeological evidence of these signs that are present in the landscape today are of importance as physical indicators of this neutral bias. There were in fact two types of signs constructed. Initially in 1943 the signs were constructed without any specific format, the coast-watching personnel merely instructed to “collect flat stones to make letters” (Kennedy 2009, 245). However, one year later in the summer of 1944 the signs were all replaced to a “standard format of 12 x 6m, surrounded by a wide rectangular stone border” and whitewashed to increase visibility (Kennedy 2008, 245). The importance of these signs as navigational aids and as an indicator of Ireland’s ‘neutral’ bias is evidenced by the fact that the United States Air Force included a detailed description of them as part of the briefings for all crews who were to fly near Ireland (Kennedy 2009, 247). .
  • 24. 17 Chapter 3. The archaeology 3.1. Field Surveys The time constraint of this project meant that the field surveys were restricted to a total of 20 sites. This represents approximately 24% of all the sites constructed. For purposes of comparison it was decided to select ten consecutive sites on the East coast and ten on the west coast. (fig 6). LOP No. Location Lop No. Location East Coast 6 Howth 11 Cahore 7 Dalkey 12 Ballyconnigar Hill 8 Bray 13 Greenore Point 9 Wicklow Head 13 Carnsore Point 10 Kilmichael Point 14 Forlorn Point West Coast 63 Benwee Head 68 Rosskeeragh 64 Downpatrick Head 69 Mullaghmore 65 Kilcummin 70 St. Johns Point 66 Lenadoon 71 Carrigan Head 67 Aughris 72 Rossan Point Fig 6.
  • 25. 18 For ease of recording a ‘Field Survey Record Sheet” was designed and filled-in at each site (Fig 7). Fig 7. Sample of Field Survey Record Sheet Lookout Post sites numbered 6 through to 15 which occurred at 5 to 10 mile intervals between Howth Head Co. Dublin and Forlorn Point, Co. Wexford on the East coast and sites numbered 63 through to 72 occurring at similar intervals between Benwee Head, Co Mayo and Rossan Point in South Donegal on the West coast, were systematically recorded by photographic survey. Where buildings existed, measurements were taken. A hand held, digital “Irish Grid Reference Compass” was used by standing at the front of each building/building foundation and recording the co-ordinates and the orientation of each
  • 26. 19 building (Irish Grid Ref Compass v1.50 - 2012-2013, app for smart phone). Levels of conservation at each site were then assessed by means of a pre-determined scale (Fig8). Finally an observational search of the surrounding area was conducted in an effort to locate the aerial EIRE signs and a positive or negative result entered onto the Field Record Sheet. A brief description of the site/building was also recorded along with the date of survey, the weather conditions and the extent of visibility. In the case of a building which presented with less than 50% of wall (conservation level 5) or where an exceptional feature was in existence adjacent to the building such as a walled entrance, pathway or other associated structure, the feature was noted on a field sketch sheet and included in the data file for the particular site. Scale indicating level of preservation 1 Building presents fully intact with roof 2 Building presents fully intact but has been modified over the years 3 Building presents with all walls but roof damaged or missing 4 Building presents with greater that 50% of walls 5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls 6 Building presents only as rubble 7 Building evidenced only by concrete floor/foundation 8 Building and all tracer evidence not in existence. Fig 8.
  • 27. 20 3.3. Analysis of data generated by field survey. Fig 9. 40% 10% 20% 10% 20% Percentage of East Coast LOP's at each conservation Level 40% 10% 20% 10% 10% 10% Percentage of West Coast LOP's at each conservation Level 1- Building presents fully intact with roof 2- Building presents fully intact but has been modified over the years 3- Building presents with all walls but roof damaged or missing 4- Building presents with greater than 50% of walls 5- Building presents with less than 50% of walls 6-Building presents only as rubble 7-Building evidenced only by concrete floor/foundation 8-Building and all trace evidence not in existence. Legend
  • 28. 21 3.3.1. Conservation The survey clearly shows a difference in levels of conservation of the subject sites between the East Coast and the West coast (fig 9). 80% of the West Coast buildings have a conservation level in the 1-4 range (i.e. presenting with greater than 50% of walls intact) compared to 50% on the East coast with both the subject areas presenting 4 buildings completely intact. In most cases the field survey has shown that even the intact buildings are beginning to show signs of becoming unstable. Only one is in present day use (Wicklow Head) and has been maintained, though has also been modified to suit its’ current purpose. Whilst every site on the West coast had some visible evidence of the buildings, two of the sites on the East coast had completely disappeared. The fact that the East is more densely populated than the west and that the sites tend to be situated closer to urban centres facilitating a greater chance of public interaction is undoubtedly a factor though the sites on the west coast have arguably to contend with more extreme weather, the huts at Carrigan Head, Co. Donegal and Rosskeeragh, Co. Sligo both falling as a result of a singular weather event (in the case of Carrigan Head, a winter storm in 1995 (local knowledge)). 3.3.2 Orientation and fields of vision The orientation of the bay-windowed end of each building/building floor was recorded during the field survey in order to facilitate an approximate calculation of field of vision for each Lookout post. Using the formula “SquareRoot(height above surface / 0.5736) = distance to horizon” (Science, How Stuff Works) distances were calculated and entered into the GIS software which enabled production of the graphic showing approximate fields of vision from each post. Of course the use of binoculars would perhaps have increased this view and these theoretically enhanced fields of vision are indicated in the graphic below as the lighter blue extension to the distance fields (Fig.10).
  • 29. 22 Fig 10. Approximate field of vision from each LOP (excluding LOP No. 6 at Howth and LOP NO.12 at Ballyconnigar Hill for which there is no physical evidence) . The ‘Donnegal Corridor’ is also arrowed. The darker blue areas represent theoretically possible un- enhanced views from the LOPs with the lighter blue areas showing theoretically possible extended views given optimum conditions and powerful binoculars.
  • 30. 23 Chapter 4 :Discussion 4.1 Lookout Post huts Most of the sites are located on headlands in extreme coast-edge positions. All but two of the sites revealed easily recognisable archaeological remains, with the remaining two presenting no evidence at all that could be recognised by a sight-only survey. In the case of these two sites at Howth and Ballyconnigar Hill (both on the East coast) the location was identified by reference to original grid references that were documented in correspondence held within the Military Archives (EDP/20/5). Though these grid references referred to a now obsolete mapping system, it was possible to convert the references to the Irish Transverse Mercator (ITM) co-ordinate system and get an approximate location. However, without physical evidence it was impossible to categorically indicate the exact orientation of each of these buildings, thus the field of vision for these sites has not been incorporated into the graphic representation above (see fig 10). 80% of the Lookout buildings surveyed as part of this project largely conformed to the architect drawn plan mentioned earlier, though the surveys revealed slight variances in dimensions as they ranged in length between 376 and 396cm and in width between 251 and 271cm. They had an angled bay window facing the sea, a doorway on the rear right wall and an interior wall extending to 97cm with a width of 11cm (which created an inner porch area). In most cases there was evidence of an inner door leading off this porch into the main room which also had a fireplace located on the back wall. Where only the foundations exist (i.e. Dalkey, Bray and Cahore on the east coast and Rosskeeragh and Carrigan Head on the west coast) the shape and dimensions of the foundation floor indicate that these building were also of standard design. However there were exceptions found notably on the south east coast. LOP No. 14 at Carnsore point proved to be the most dramatically different as it was located on top of what appears to be a pre existing single storey building constructed of red brick with the exterior plastered in a concrete and stone mix (fig 11).
  • 31. 24 Fig 11. LOP No.14 at Carnsore Point, Co. Wexford. In addition to the unusual location, it differs from the architect design in so far as it has angled observation windows located at each end of the building and the fireplace is located in the centre of the south wall. There were only five individual windows making up each widow-bay unlike the six which usually make up the bay window area in the huts that are of standard design. The entrance to the structure was through the building underneath with an access opening located in the floor of the building opposite the fireplace. LOP no. 15 at Forlorn Point also differs from the norm. It was also located on the upper level of another building, though it is not possible to ascertain if this was a later addition. It is accessed via a stairway on the outside of the East wall (fig 12).
  • 32. 25 Fig 12. LOP No. 15 at Forlorn Point. It has an angled bay window section spanning approximately 4m in width (twice the normal width). The windows on each wall of the angled bay were made up of one large window with a smaller side, sliding sash window and unusually there were windscreen- wipers attached to the larger window pane. The depth of the room was considerably smaller than the norm at approximately 1.67m. The fireplace was located on the western wall. It is not possible to say from sight survey alone if the existing windows and window- wipers date to the 1939 – 1945 period or if they were a later modification. The room appears to be out of use for some time as the access stairway is overgrown with weeds and brambles. Furthermore a visual inspection through the window showed it to be empty except for some lengths of wood. There was however a modern communication aerial attached to the roof of the lower building which also had a sign over the back door saying “Coastguard”.
  • 33. 26 The variation found in Lookout hut design appears to be linked to the topography of the coastline. Where the altitude falls below 12m, as is the case with both Carnsore Point and Forlorn Point, which present as 6.80m and 5.48m respectively, the design has been modified to reflect the low altitude and the buildings have been sited on top of other buildings giving them an approximate 5 to 6m height advantage. Evidence of a small external entrance wall located at the doorway of the Lookout huts was present in at least two of the east coast sites at Bray and Wicklow Head (Fig 13 & 14). A possible third site at Kilmichael Point on the east coast also had evidence of a red brick structure at the doorway, now in ruins and mostly buried beneath the sand (Fig 15) Fig.13 Small external wall at Wicklow Fig. 14 Small external wall at Bray LOP. Head LOP
  • 34. 27 Fig 15 : Buried Red-brick feature at LOP 10 at Kilmichael Point, Co. Wicklow. This external feature was not present on any of the west coast LOPs surveyed, however at four of the west coast sites there was evidence of a circular pit feature in close proximity to the buildings (Fig 16). Fig. 16. Circular pit feature adjacent to LOP no. 69 at Mullaghmore It is suggested that these regional similarities noted in features occurring adjacent to the LOP buildings, the walled external entrances on the east coast and the circular pit features
  • 35. 28 on the west, may be indicative of building decisions made at local level by the Defence Forces construction team and arguably indicates that some LOPs were built by the same team. One possible interpretation of these features is that they may have provided a sheltered area for storing fuel; coal on the east coast and turf on the west (covered in the pit by a protective covering). Further investigation or excavation of the features may produce evidence to support this theory. 4.2. Aerial EIRE signs The aerial EIRE signs were most evident on the West Coast. At Downpatrick, Co. Mayo the sign had been excavated in the week prior to field survey and had revealed some stones still bearing traces of whitewash. The border had been detected but on grounds of health and safety had not been included in the excavation (Caulfield 2014), (Fig 17). Fig. 17. Recently excavated EIRE sign with stones bearing traces of whitewash. At Carrigan Point, Co. Donegal there is evidence that perhaps two signs were constructed in two different locations. The partial remains of a sign at 54˚37’29.94N, 8˚40’37.99W are
  • 36. 29 visible from a distance (Fig.18) whilst what appears to be another sign is partially visible close by at 54˚37’36.74N, 8˚41’02.84W (Fig 19). Fig. 18.Partial remains of EIRE sign at Carrigan Head, 54˚37’29.94N, 8˚40’37.99W) Fig 19. Suggested partial remains of EIRE sign at Carrigan Head, 54˚37’36.74N, 8˚41’02.84W (arrowed) At Benwee Head, Co. Mayo the EIRE sign was complete and appeared to have been recently renovated (fig20) www.bing.com/maps
  • 37. 30 Fig 20. EIRE sign at Benwee Head On the East Coast at the site of Bray LOP a 10m row of large stones were detected in a very overgrown, grassy area approximately 15m to the east of the LOP site. Without further investigation and excavation it is not possible to say if they are connected with the sign. Photographic evidence from the 1950’s held by the Military Archives shows the EIRE sign at Wicklow Head in situ (Fig 21). The area was overgrown at time of field survey, to the extent that it was impossible to find any surface evidence however, current satellite images appear to show the sign may still be there and could be revealed by excavation at a later date (Fig 22).
  • 38. 31 Fig 21. Aerial photograph of Wicklow Head dated circa. 1950 (MA Vertical Negative Prints Box/ Wicklow Folder). Fig 22. Satellite view of EIRE sign site. “R” and “E” appear to be still visible. From the visual evidence, the letters of the aerial EIRE signs found on the West coast appear to be of similar design and dimensions. However, the photograph showing the sign at Wicklow Head taken in the 1950’s (Fig 21), shows a deviation in design with the number 9 occurring below the EIRE and cutting through the border (on the more standard examples the number of the Lookout occurs above the bordered sign). The border and letters also appear to be narrower than elsewhere although this can only be determined by excavation. Kennedy maintains that there were two sets of signs built, the first an ad-hoc attempt by the individual Lookouts and the second conforming to the dimensions of 12 x www.Bing.com/maps
  • 39. 32 6m with wide rectangular border (Kennedy 2008, 244). It may therefore be the case that the sign at Wicklow Head was the original sign which was never updated, or perhaps could not be updated due to topography issues. The presence of a second sign at Carrigan Head could arguably be accounted for by virtue of the fact that there is very few flat areas of suitable dimension in the location (with the exception of the small carpark adjacent to the sign in Fig.19 which appears to be of more modern construction). The location of one sign on a north facing slope (as in Fig 18) would not have been visible to planes flying in a northerly direction, however the sign in Fig.19 is south-west facing and would have addressed this problem. 4.3. Other buildings of the Emergency Defence Plan. The Irish Marine and Coastwatching Service was just one of a number of defence organisations that were established under The Emergency Act of 1939. There were in fact two invasion scenarios considered; invasion from Germany (via coast or air) and invasion from Britain. Invasion from Britain was deemed more likely to occur along the East coast, at the treaty ports or at the six-county Northern Ireland border (Wills 2007,88,). Invasion fears reached an all-time high in May of 1940 with the fall of France and on the 9th July a directive issued from Portobello Barracks in Dublin confirmed that “Provision will be made for prompt opposition to a hostile advance including delaying action by a small detachment between the border and a final line of defence. The final line of defence will be the general line of the river Boyne and Blackwater from the sea to Lough Ramor.” (quoted in Wills 2007, 89). In addition to the LOPs observing the coast, observation groups were also to be situated at the ports and along the border frontier. The “delaying action” by a “small detachment” referred to above was to be made up of cyclists and cavalry squadrons whose objectives were to report on the whereabouts of the enemy and cause the maximum amount of obstruction and delay north of the main line of resistance which was concentrated on the south side of the river Boyne (Stout 2002,168). This final line of resistance consisted of a series of pillboxes, grouped together at strategic points, which would be manned by defence personnel if and when it was thought an incursion was likely (Stout 2002, 172).
  • 40. 33 Though these defences were clearly planned in mid 1940 it would appear from dates and initials found scrawled on the pillboxes that these were not built in the main until 1942 (Wills 2008, 89). These pill-boxes were clearly defensive in their design, varying in shape and size but were all basically concrete artillery emplacements with concealed points of entry and “internally splayed horizontal slits” (Stout 2002,170) Fig. 23 Pillbox at Bridge on the Boyne, Co. Meath 4.3.1 Pillbox and LOP Comparison The Pillboxes described in the previous section stand in stark contrast to the Lookout huts that had been built three years earlier with little or no defensive characteristics. In contrast to the small rifle slits which were a feature of the pill-boxes, the Lookout huts had six large windows situated in an angled bay. Additionally, their cliff-top locations, selected for maximum visibility meant that they had maximum exposure. Although arming the LOP personnel with rifles and sub-machine guns had been discussed, it had only been realised at LOP no. 41 at Fenit. (Kennedy 2008, 39). A few posts such as Howth and Dalkey which www.geograph.ie
  • 41. 34 were deemed ‘key positions’, benefitted from having searchlights, sound detectors and associated additional personnel located on site (Kennedy 2008, 171). At the LOP site in Dalkey the remnants of a concrete platform, 150 x 150cm with bolt holes can be found located approximately 3m from the LOP base which may have been the base of the documented searchlight (Fig. 24) Fig 24 Concrete platform with bolt holes at LOP no.7 at Dalkey, Co. Dublin. For the most part the Lookout volunteers and their huts were completely undefended. The volunteers were instructed to destroy all equipment and join nearest LDF contingent if the coast was invaded or in case of the LOP being held-up “to slip past persons engaged in the operation and cycle to the nearest point to which phone or other contact could be made with the nearest military posts” (Kennedy 2008, 42). The proximity of the Lookout huts, in theory, facilitated an overlapping and contiguous field of vision of the seas and skies adjacent to the subject stretch of coastlines (illustrated in Fig 10). The overlapping light blue areas indicating enhanced extended view fields in the aforementioned graphic show areas which could theoretically be observed by more than one LOP. Of particular importance is the number of LOPs which could observe the activity of belligerent aircraft along the Donnegal Corridor (arrowed in Fig 10).
  • 42. 35 Kennedy, commenting on the special arrangement that was put in place to allow this breach of neutrality, states that the eight mile route from Belleek to the sea at Ballyshannon and out over Donegal Bay, was agreed to in a meeting between DeValera and Sir John Maffey in January 1941 and within a month the LOPs in Donegal Bay had recorded a marked increase in aerial activity, “with St.Johns Point becoming the most important LOP for the observation of flights through the air corridor” (2008, 141- 142). It is suggested that as a stipulation of the air corridor agreement, that as flights were to fly at a height of 1000 ft over Eire (Kennedy 2008,141), the proximity of St.Johns Point to the start of the corridor may have given the coastwatchers at this LOP the best chance of observing the greatest number of flights before they reached this height. If, as seems likely, the remaining 62 LOP sites on the coastlines which are not included in this study, were similarly located and built with consideration to the topography of each area, it would demonstrate a comprehensive attempt at observing the Irish territory in its entirety. Observation and fields of vision were however wholly dependent on the weather and seasons with visibility restricted to daylight hours only during the mid-winter months. The documentary evidence of the LOP logbooks held within the Military Archives show however that the posts were manned twenty-four hours a day with entries for the hours of darkness restricted to descriptions of aircraft noise and occasional visual accounts of flares or explosions (see fig 25 & 26).
  • 43. 36 Fig 25. MA/LOP/09/2 – note entry at 00.20 describing visual of flashes. Fig. 26. MA/LOP/09/2 – note entry at 06.10 describing sound of aircraft only, though visibility good.
  • 44. 37 C hapter 5 – Wicklow Head Case Study Fig 27 Lookout Post building today in use as VHF marine radio station. NOTE : Information supplied by material witness is cited as ‘Informant 1’ in order to ensure anonymity. The Lookout Post at Wicklow Head is one of three Lookout Posts that have been adapted for modern day use. It is used today to house VHF maritime radio equipment and is protected from public interaction by the addition of a security gate protecting the doorway and wire fencing surrounding the entire site. One of the more notable adaptations made to the building is the blocking up of the two central windows along with the far right and left windows within the angled bay. The two remaining windows are filled with obscured glass, which prevents viewing from the inside out or from the outside in. These amendments constitute a fundamental change in building use, as visibility is no longer of any importance to the function or purpose of the structure.
  • 45. 38 This being said however, the building is still recognisable as a Lookout Post building, conforming in shape and approximate dimensions to architect W.H. Cooke’s original design. Its current function, in no way diminishes its past role as LOP no. 9 in the network that made up the Irish Marine and Coast-watching Service. LOP no. 9 was in fact one of many buildings that occupied the ‘Wicklow Head’ headland over the past few centuries in order to keep watch over the adjacent coastline. 25” Ordnance Survey maps dated between 1897-1913 show the headland to have been populated by various buildings of a maritime nature, with what is labelled ‘F.S. Semaphore’ at the location of the present LOP building (Fig 28). www.OSI.ie Fig 28. 25” Ordnance Survey Map of Wicklow Head This structure appears to be part of an installation collectively called the “Coastguard Station” consisting of a walled enclosure containing various buildings. There are also three lighthouses shown, two of which are disused. Photographic evidence dated to 1910 shows the station in its landscape setting, situated adjacent to the “middle tower”. Clearly visible on the headland is a building with a tall mast on its northern side which presumably is the “Semaphore” structure. (arrowed in Fig 29). N
  • 46. 39 Fig. 29. Photograph dated circa 1910 which shows Coastguard Station with “Semaphore” structure at site of LOP 9 (arrowed). The “Semaphore” (precursor to Morse Code) was a system that used flags to communicate with ships at sea. It was used by the British Admiralty and Coastguard primarily in the prevention of smuggling activities (The Flag Press,2010) The archaeological evidence of these past times which are present on the headland today consist of the three lighthouses, the radio station (ex LOP 9) and the ruins of the buildings of the coastguard station. The station was built by the British Admiralty and the buildings provided accommodation for the personnel of the Coastguard and their familes. In 1922 they became private houses until they were turned into a youth hostel in 1934. With the outbreak of World War 2 and the construction of LOP no. 9 they were requisitioned by the Government for use by the Coast-watching service (Informant 1) and although it is unclear what kind of ‘use’ was intended, it would seem likely that the additional facilities such as lavatories and washrooms would have been utilised It has not been possible to ascertain if the requisitioning of additional buildings by the Government for the personnel of the Coast-watching service was replicated in other locations, however for the personnel of LOP no. 9 it no doubt provided welcome
  • 47. 40 additional facilities. Local knowledge highlights the existence of a ledge along the inside of the garden wall of one of these buildings which gives easy access to a climbable section of the rock face leading to the LOP site and it is known that LOP personnel used this ‘shortcut’( Informant 1). Logbook entries made by LOP 9 personnel refer to a ‘new’ and ‘old’ building; “9/2/1940 - Received 2 keys from contractor for new hut, gave him receipt” And “10/2/1940 – Board of Works measuring site of old and new hut, also wire phaling” (MA, LOP/9/1) Thus it would seem likely that the LOP personnel may have used this old coastguard “Semaphore” structure at first whilst awaiting the building of the new hut. The construction of the new LOP represented the first building on Wicklow Head to be built by the Irish Government. To a degree its construction represents the militarisation of the headland; the marking of a border over which no foreign army may trespass. This militarisation extended also to the swelling of the Local Security Force. ranks and a general increase in military presence in the area as the LOP was under army control and subject to inspection at varying times of the day and night. Local memory recalls regular patrols by members of the L.S.F. as well as shortages and rationing thus ensuring the war was never too far removed from the lives of the inhabitants of Wicklow Town (Informant 1). In 1946, with the Coast-watching service disbanded, the houses of the old Coastguard Station were demolished, with some of the Coast-watching volunteers employed to do the work (Informant 1). The volunteers working in LOP 9 were recruited locally and included the following names; Corporal P. O’Sullivan, R. Brennan, W. Goodman, J.J. Kavanagh, J. Malone, T. Malone, P. O’Connor (from Kennedy 2008, 318) and M. Patchell , P. Flowers (MA/LOP/9/1)
  • 48. 41 It is interesting to note that families of the same names still live in Wicklow today and may be related to these men who had a ringside seat for so much of the wartime activity along the East Coast. One of the more infamous events that occurred during the war years in neutral Ireland was the Luftwaffe bombing of the North Strand area of Dublin on 31st May 1941. Investigation of the logbooks for LOP no. 9 for that evening show an entry that reads “continuous sound of aircraft going north from 00.00 to 01.45” and that this information was passed to Air Defence Command (MA/LOP/9/2). According to Kennedy these planes flying over Wicklow Head and the other East coast LOPs were German aircraft heading North on what was to be an abortive raid on Belfast and that it was on their return journey that Dublin was bombed in what was probably “a tragic accident” as “bombs were dropped by aircraft running low on fuel seeking to reduce their weight” (Kennedy 2008, 189). Commenting on the operational aspect of the Emergency Defence Plan that was engaged that night Kennedy says, “Operationally, this was a successful engagement as LOPs, sound locators, searchlights and guns all worked together to engage the target” (2008, 192). Other entries of note in the Wicklow Head LOP Logbooks include the report of the dropping of incendiary devices on Rathdown on 26th October 1940. Volunteers M. Patchell and P. Connor wrote: 25th Oct. 23.05 “Bray LOP phoned to know if we had any knowledge of bombing of Rathdown as they had reported same to CDO on information of Bray Gardai. “Gave them details of flashing lights” 25th Oct. 23.15 W. Goodman and T Malone wrote : “Test call from Wicklow Gardai with information regarding bombing. Told us they had priority of Wicklow circuit for 1 hour and fifteen minutes from time we reported incident to them.
  • 49. 42 26th Oct. 00.20 “ 3 Flashed in quick succession followed by period of illuminations lasting 20 minutes 1½ miles west of Post. Vis good.” The following day volunteers R. Brennan and P. Connor wrote: 27th Oct. 21.00 “ Leader of B group of Wicklow L.S.F. reported to us that Rathdown L.S.F. [today] who were searching under Supt. Flynn picked up cap of the delayed action bomb in stump of Castle on the North Side of River and three unexploded incendiary bombs in the townland of Ballyhad on the south side of river. Supt. Flynn handed them over to the military”. (MA/LOP/9/1) This incident demonstrates not only the level of communication between the LOPs, the Gardai and L.S.F. but is also a working example of the Coastal Defence Plan in action and the level of participation of LOP 9 at Wicklow Head. 5.1. The aerial EIRE sign at Wicklow Head. The aerial EIRE sign was located at the base of the octagonal tower located on an area known as Long Hill (Informant 1). Log book entries at time of construction include the following: 20th July 1943 : “Phone call from Sub depot to say that the man on 8 to 4 duty is responsible for the “EIRE” sign and that he is to inspect it each day at 4 O’Clock and make entry in Log about it” 17th Aug 1943 “E.I.R completed. Work started on E” 20th Aug 1943 “Aerial sign completed” 26th Aug 1943 “Sighted 1 high winged fixed engine twin-rudder monoplane half a mile west of Post moving south. Height 1,000 feet, nationality British. Vis good.
  • 50. 43 26th Aug 1943 “Comdt. McDonald phoned about EIRE sign. “Tower to be whitened and 9 to be extended and letters EIRE to be whitened and borders to be put around sign”. 18th Sep 1943 “Ring from Comdt McDonald to know were the letters of sign completed and whitened. Corporal to get as many men as available to finish border” 27th Sep 1943 “Lieut. McDevitte phoned to know was border complete and everything in order. Told him it was” Kennedy, speculating on Allied involvement in construction of the sign, says in relation to Wicklow Head LOP and the logbook entries cited above; “Three days after the sign was completed an RAF Coastal Command Liberator passed south half-a-mile west of the post at 1,000 feet. Possibly this was just a coincidence, but perhaps not: later that day Wicklow Head LOP was ordered to put a border around the sign and to extend the size of the number ‘9’ next to the sign” (2008, 245). It’s of interest to note that local knowledge, from an age appropriate witness, maintains that the octagonal tower adjacent to the sign was never white-washed however the “middle-tower” appears white in the 1910 photo (fig29) and indeed white paint was evident on the middle tower at time of the field survey carried out in respect of this project. Comparison of the 1950’s photograph and the 6” Ordnance Survey Map dated between 1829-1841 (see Figs. 30 & 31 below) show the shape of the sign border to be the same as a feature recorded on the earlier map. It therefore seems likely that the sign was sited on a pre-existing structure of some kind though it is of interest to note that this same feature is not recorded on the later 25” map (Fig.28). It may be that it was overgrown at that time due to the ‘disused’ status of the lighthouse but had been discovered and cleared at the time of construction of the sign.
  • 51. 44 Fig 30. 6” historic map, feature circled and arrowed. Fig 31. Photo circa 1950, 5.2. Wicklow Town’s Heritage The National Sites and Monuments service records 33 archaeological/historical sites at Wicklow Town. Amongst them is evidence of very early settlement in the Wicklow Town location with a Prehistoric site located at what is called Corporation Land, North west of Wicklow Head (National Sites and Monuments website). Also recorded are a Souterrain and Holy Well at Dunbar Head, a Promotory Fort on the headland South-east of Wicklow Harbour and of course the ruins of the ‘Black Castle’ also on this same headland. Though the town itself dates back to Viking times, it’s name Wicklow deriving from the Norse name Wykinglo, Clarke says that the date of construction of the castle is unknown but that the first reference to it dates to 1174 (Clarke 1944,1) coinciding with the arrival of the Normans. It appears to have been in the primary possession of Baron Maurice Fitzgerald but in following years was subjected to various attacks by the Irish O’Byrne and O’Toole clans, finally being burnt to ground in 1301(Visit Wicklow website). Also of note within the town is the ruin of a Franciscan abbey which is located at the north-western end of Wicklow Town. It dates to the early 13th century and is believed to have been built by the Fitzgerald family (mentioned above). It was confiscated during the www.OSI.ie
  • 52. 45 reign of King Edward VI, 1547-1553 and was subsequently turned into an armoury and a courthouse (Parish of Wicklow website). Another example of Wicklow’s built heritage is the Wicklow Gaol which was in use from 1702 to 1924. Built to deal with prisoners sentenced under the penal laws, it was notorious in its depravation. With a history spanning over 200 years it housed it’s last prisoners during the War of Independence, 1920-21. It has become a popular tourist attraction in present times (Wicklows Historic Gaol 1702-1924) Wicklow Town presents today as a place with a proud appreciation of it’s local heritage both built and documented and there are plenty of concerned and interested community groups who recognise the need to promote and protect this aspect of their town’s identity. Of note is the vibrant and active Historical Society which has been publishing journals since 1988 and who admit to be “skimming the surface of Wicklow’s long and varied history to bring the fruits of our research to the inquisitive people of the town and its environs” (Finlay 2014, 1) and The Wicklow Peace and Rememberance Memorial Group who are dedicated to memorialising Wicklow’s war dead (Wicklows Peace and Remberance Memorial Group website). Online, there is the interactive County Wicklow Heritage website which is a “community heritage archive, set up to store and showcase Wicklow’s rich natural, built and cultural heritage” and which has open access “whereby anybody with an interest in encouraged to browse and to contribute” (County Wicklow Heritage website). The built heritage of the Wicklow Headland however is largely missing from the local historical narrative. Though the headland is a popular walking destination and the Lighthouses feature on many a postcard, the history and archaeology of the Lookout Post building and it’s associated aerial EIRE sign remains undocumented. However interaction with the local community in the course of researching this case study has revealed an interest in this aspect of Wicklow Town’s heritage and an appetite for both conservation and memorialisation of the people and events associated with these World War 2 sites. Professor of archaeology Seamus Caulfield who has been excavating the EIRE sign at Downpatrick Head speaks of the interest in the sign shown by tourists and locals alike
  • 53. 46 (Caulfield 2014) and it is suggested that the sign at Wicklow Head could prove to be of equal interest both locally and indeed to a much wider national and international audience.
  • 54. 47 Chapter 6 - Conclusion: Central to the construction of the Lookout posts was the defence of Ireland’s neutral status. That the concept of Irish neutrality was “seen as a core attribute of Irish national identity, a central value associated with nationalism” (Girvan 2006,145) was verbalised by J.J. Walsh (businessman, former government minister and pro-German advocate) in 1940 in a memorandum to DeValera in which he stated “Neutrality was not entered upon for the purpose of being used as a bargaining factor. It represented and does represent, the fundamental attitude of the entire people. It is just as much a part of the national position as the desire to remain Irish, and we can no more abandon it than we can renounce everything that constitutes our national distinctiveness” (Girvan 2006, 145). The verbalisation of this sentiment shows that the Coast-watching service was as much about displaying independence as it was about providing military defence. The Lookout posts became the theatres of nationalistic display and as such have a value as part of our cultural heritage. They are the places where the ethereal notion of political automony became a physical manifestation and portrayed to the wider world the changed status of this one time colonised nation. Bolton states that “In evoking a vanished order – and thereby, in some sense, sustaining it – ruins help us pose questions of how, and whether, the past should be remembered and preserved” (2010,118). The buildings of the Irish Marine and Coastwatching Service pose just such questions. In 2004 Schofield, commenting on the importance of maintaining and managing military heritage in the environment, recognised the need to” maintain physical links for future generations to make fresh sense of their own past” (2004, 49). Ferriter says that DeValera was renowned for his preference of minimising written records thus ensuring that there was little paper evidence of any sensitive material (2007, 10). Consequently there are archival gaps in the documented historical record particularly with regard to decisions made for co-operative concessions made by Ireland to the Allies throughout the war. This being the case, the archaeological record becomes all the more important. The “Donegal Corridor” is not a physical structure and the true nature of its function can be lost with the
  • 55. 48 passage of time, but the aerial EIRE signs with their associated LOP numbers are structures which, if preserved, can be interpreted for generations to come. The preservation of these sites is therefore of the utmost importance. The National Monument Service which operates under the aegis of the Department of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht defines a national monument as a monument ‘the preservation of which is a matter of national importance by reason of the historical, architectural, traditional, artistic or archaeological interest attaching thereto…’(National Sites and Monuments website). The LOP sites of war-time Ireland have been argued within this thesis to satisfy that criteria and are therefore worthy potential recipients of state protection – something they have heretofore lacked. The aim of this project was to highlight the relevance of the LOP sites as part of Ireland’s cultural heritage and the need for more archaeological investigation which includes accessing and recording the thoughts of the war-time generation. This latter point (amongst others) was touched upon by Schofield in his document “Modern Military Matters” which advised on the study and management of twentieth-century defence heritage in Britain when he states “... our study demands a multi-disciplinary approach, drawing upon documents, building analysis, archaeology, oral history and other sources to draw a rounded picture of our military past, and the fabric it has left behind” (2004,1). This author would suggest that a similar approach could and should be taken to the militarised landscape of Ireland. The archaeological exploration of these sites has in part commenced. The aerial EIRE sign at Downpatrick Head was the focus of an excavation by architectural students at Downpatrick this year, and have proven to be very popular with cultural tourists (Caulfield 2004). The sites at Benwee, Malin Head and Loop Head have also been the focus of excavation and conservation procedures by presumably well-intentioned local amateurs. However, it is suggested that without the establishment of a professional agenda, governed by good archaeological and conservational practice as proposed by Schofield and discussed earlier, the integrity of the archaeology is open to the possibility of environmental risk. With that said it does provide a positive barometer for interest in the field and it is therefore the archaeological process that needs to catch up with local enthusiasm.
  • 56. 49 The investigation of material held by the Military Archives has proved to be essential to this study. Correspondence from Colonel Dan Bryan to the Director of Marine Service on the 12th June 1945 concerning the future of the LOP Logbooks following the demobilisation of the Irish Marine and Coast-watching Service states “ I think it is highly desirable that some complete logs from the LOPs should be available in the future for specimen study and historical purposes” (MA/G2/X/0318). This shows great foresight on the part of Colonel Bryan and it would be to our nation’s detriment if we failed to apply the same foresight to the wider material evidence, for the benefit of future enquiry into the country’s understated involvement in the Second World War. Written by varying hands with all the human foibles ( the crossing out, the careless spelling, the smudge of a teacup) incorporated therein, we grasp the “everydayness” of the experience of these men and yet the content and context of these books depicts an entire world in turmoil. From accounts of mutilated bodies washing up along the shore, the sound of gunfire and the spectacle of explosions in the skies and oceans surrounding their little huts, these men recorded it all. The prevalence of reports on shipping activity in the early war years of 1939-1942 which was then superseded by reports of aerial activity show how the nature of the war changed over the duration. From an archaeological perspective, the accounts of the construction of the EIRE signs which spanned days and weeks in some cases, show just how substantial they were. This suggests that though there may be little or no surface evidence, they may still exist and could be revealed by archaeological excavation, the site at Wicklow Head a prime example. The value of the Wicklow Head case-study has proved substantial. The study of the landscape of the headland over the centuries was informative indicating, as it did, the geographical importance of the location to maritime traffic with both the abundance of lighthouses that were built there and the semaphore station that once occupied the site of what became LOP no. 9. It is interesting to note how the same landmass came to be of importance to airline traffic in this later stage of occupation with the addition of the EIRE sign.
  • 57. 50 Perhaps the most important aspect of the case-study though was the interview with the contemporary witness. His account of the use of the adjacent buildings by coast-watching personnel and the short-cut they used to reach the LOP, demonstrated that there were variances in the Coast-watching experience, these apparent extra facilities juxtaposed with the isolation and bleakness of the locations of other LOPs, such as the one at Benwee Head or Downpatrick Head in Co. Mayo. Of value also was his description of Wicklow Town during the war years with army personnel a regular sight and shortages and rationing a feature of everyday life. The contribution that could be made to the study of the built heritage of this period by this demographic cannot be over-estimated but they are a time-sensitive resource which should be utilised. The LOPs were buildings of their time. They give us a glimpse of a world without the technologies we take so much for granted today. They were the satellite, GPS, Radar and weather stations of their day and they communicated their information via stone made aerial signs and messages delivered by bicycle (in the early days). They were responsible for bringing telephone trunk lines to the most rural areas in Ireland (Litton 1961,86). History has revealed that in “securing the Irish maritime perimeter against information on Overlord [operational code name for the D-Day landings] leaking through Ireland” (Kennedy 286), they played a role in the D-Day Landings, a turning point for the Allies in their war against Germany, and they did so under the guise of neutrality. Lambrick describes military remains as “tangible testimonies to past conflict” and that they “have gaunt aesthetic qualities that have come to be appreciated because they are recognised as history, not eyesores” (2004,xiii). This thesis has argued that the same is true of the buildings of the Irish Marine and Coast-watching Service and that they stand as contemporary memorials to Ireland’s unique wartime experience.
  • 58. 51 Bibliography Anon., 2010. The Flag Press, the real WORD of Flags. [Online] Available at: http://flagexpressions.wordpress.com/2010/03/23/history-behind-semaphore-flags/ [Accessed 10th August 2014]. Anon., 2014. County Wicklow Heritage. [Online] Available at: http://www.countywicklowheritage.org/ [Accessed 17TH JULY 2014]. Anon., 2014. Defence of Britain Project. [Online] Available at: http://www.archaeologyuk.org/cba/projects/DOB [Accessed 7th August 2014]. Anon., 2014. English Heritage. [Online] Available at: https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/professional/research/landscapes-and- areas/characterisation/military-heritage/anti-invasion/ [Accessed 16th August 2014]. Anon., 2014. National Sites and Monuments. [Online] Available at: www.archaeology.ie [Accessed 16th August 2014]. Anon., 2014. Parish of Wicklow. [Online] Available at: www.wicklowparish.ie [Accessed 16th August 2014]. Anon., 2014. Science, How Stuff Works. [Online] Available at: www.science.howstuffworks.com [Accessed 16th August 2014]. Anon., 2014. Visit Wicklow. [Online] Available at: www.visitwicklow.ie [Accessed 6th August 2014]. Anon., 2014. Wicklow Peace and Rememberance Memorial Group. [Online] Available at: http://www.wicklowpeaceremem.com/ [Accessed 9th August 2014]. Anon., 2014. Wicklows Historic Gaol 1702-1924. [Online] Available at: www.wicklowshistoricgaol.ie [Accessed 16th August 2014]. Bolton, J., 2010. The ruins of a republic. In: J. Hell & A. Schonle, eds. Ruins of Modernity. Michigan: Duke University Press, pp. 118-132. Caulfield, S., 2014. Professor [Interview] (29th July 2014).
  • 59. 52 Clarke, M., 1944. The Black Castle, Wicklow. The Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland Seventh Series, 14(1), pp. 1-22. Dwyer, T. R., 2009. Behind the Green Curtain, Ireland's Phoney Neutrality During World War II. Dublin: Gill and Macmillan Ltd.. Ferriter, D., 2007. Judging DEV. Dublin: Royal Irish Academy. Finlay, J., 2014. Chairperson. Wicklow Historical Society, 5(1), p. 1. Girvan, B., 2006. The Emergency, Neutral Ireland 1939-45. London: Macmillan. Kennedy, M., 2008. Guarding Neutral Ireland, The Coast Watching Service and Military Intelligence, 1939-1945. Dublin: Four Courts Press Ltd.. Lambrick, G., 2004. Director CBA. In: J. Schofield, ed. Modern Military Matters. York: Council for British Archaeology, p. Xiii. Litton, A., 1964. The growth and developement of the Irish Telephone System. [Online] Available at: <www.tara.tcd.ie/bitstream/2262/4617/1/jssisiVolXXPart5_79115.pdf> [Accessed 7th August 2014]. Moshenska, G., 2012. The archaeology of the Second World War: Uncovering Britains's Wartime Heritage. Barnsley: Pen and Sword Archaeology. O'Carroll, D., 1986. The Guns of Dunree. Buncrana: Department of community, Rural and Gaeltacht Affairs. Schmelzer, T., 2011. Lookout Post. [Online] Available at: www.Lookoutpost.com [Accessed 2nd March 2014]. Schofield, J., 20004. Modern Military Matters, York: York Publishing Services Ltd. Schofield, J., 2005. Combat Archaeology, Material Culture and Modern Conflict. London: Gerald Duckworth and Co. Ltd.. Stout, G., 2002. Newgrange and the Bend of the Boyne. Cork: Cork University Press. Wills, C., 2008. That Neutral Island. London: Faber and Faber.
  • 61. 54
  • 62. 55 World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut LOP No.6 - Howth, Co. Dublin Record Sheet www. Googlearth.com Aerial view of site of Lookout Hut No. 6 Howth, Co. Dublin. Level of Preservation 8 Irish Grid Reference O 29448, 37408 Accurate +/- 5.00m GPS 53˚22’16.446N, 6˚3’21.132W Orientation Evidence of Eire Sign No Date of Field Survey 13/05/2014 Appendix 2. Scale indicating level of preservation 1 Building presents fully intact with roof 2 modified over the years 3 Building presents with all walls but roof damaged or missing 4 Building presents with greater that 50% of walls 5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls 6 Building presents only as rubble 7 Building evidenced only by concrete floor/foundation 8 Building and all tracer evidence not in existence.
  • 63. 56 Description: Building does not exist. A carpark now occupies the site. There is no evidence of Eire sign. Field trip occurred on bright sunny day. Visibility was excellent and ocean sea views extended approximately 180˚ degrees. N
  • 64. 57 World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut LOP No.7 - Dalkey, Co. Dublin Record Sheet East facing view of LOP foundation/floor Concrete area approx 3m to north of building with bolt holes. South facing view of LOP foundation with viewing bench North-West facing view of LOP foundation/floor Level of Preservation 7 Irish Grid Reference O 27168, 26280 +/-5m GPS 53˚16’17.47N, 6˚5’3679W Orientation 76˚E Evidence of Eire Sign No Date of Field Survey 12/06/2014 Appendix 3. Scale indicating level of preservation 1 Building presents fully intact with roof 2 modified over the years 3 Building presents with all walls but roof damaged or missing 4 Building presents with greater that 50% of walls 5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls 6 Building presents only as rubble 7 Building evidenced only by concrete floor/foundation 8 Building and all tracer evidence not in existence.
  • 65. 58 www.Googlearth.com Aerial view of LOP No. 7 site at Dalkey, Co. Dublin Description Floor of building is evident and presents with customary rectangular shape with a bay angled section at East end. Markings on West end of concrete floor are consistent with the presence of a fire-place (as is seen on other intact buildings) Foundation/floor currently supports a public viewing bench. Weather was sunny and bright on day of survey and sea views extended approximately 180˚. Approximately 3m to north of LOP site is a small concrete area approximately 150 x 150cm which contains bolt holes. N
  • 66. 59 World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut LOP No.8 - Bray , Co. WicklowRecord Sheet North-east facing view of wall adjacent South facing of view walls adjacent to south to south side of building foundation side of building foundation on which is rubble from LOP building South facing view of site in its wider landscape East facing view of walls adjacent to setting Foundation. Level of Preservation 6 Irish Grid Reference O 28794E, 15663N +/-5m GPS 53˚10’33.05N, 6˚4’28.71W Orientation 195˚, S. Evidence of Eire Sign Potentially Date of Field Survey 18th May 2014 Appendix 4 Scale indicating level of preservation 1 Building presents fully intact with roof 2 modified over the years 3 Building presents with all walls but roof damaged or missing 4 Building presents with greater that 50% of walls 5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls 6 Building presents only as rubble 7 Building evidenced only by concrete floor/foundation 8 Building and all tracer evidence not in existence.
  • 67. 60 www.Googlearth.com Aerial view of site of Lookout Post at Bray, Co. Wicklow. Building presents only as rubble spread across foundation floor which appears to be intact. There is evidence on the foundation of a fireplace on the western wall. Rubble extends to the north and east of foundation. On the south side of foundation /floor there remains three walls which appear to have been located adjacent to the doorway, possibly a porch. Some 15 meters eastwards, downhill there is evidence of a row of large stones extending 10meters in length which may possibly have been connected to the documented aerial EIRE sign. N N
  • 68. 61
  • 69. 62 World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut LOP No.9 -Wicklow Head , Co. Wicklow Record Sheet West facing view of LOP North facing view of LOP East facing view of LOP showing exterior Location of aerial EIRE sign( arrowed) walled entrance (arrowed) Level of Preservation 2 Irish Grid Reference T33196, 93030 +/-666.39m GPS 52˚ 57’54.43N, 5˚59’58.52W. Orientation 90˚E +/- 666.39m Evidence of Eire Sign Yes Date of Field Survey 6th July 2014 Appendix 5 Scale indicating level of preservation 1 Building presents fully intact with roof 2 modified over the years 3 Building presents with all walls but roof damaged or missing 4 Building presents with greater that 50% of walls 5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls 6 Building presents only as rubble 7 Building evidenced only by concrete floor/foundation 8 Building and all tracer evidence not in existence.
  • 70. 63 www.Googlearth.com Aerial view of Lookout Post at Wicklow Head, Co. Wicklow. LOP is in current day use as a VHF Marine Service Radio Station. It has been extensively altered over the years. The two front bay windows have been blocked up and the chimney has been removed. There is a mast attached to the front of the building and another in close proximity. There is a metal grill security door on outside of door. Building is enclosed by a high security wire fence. On the southern side of the building there is a walled entrance way leading to the door. Entire site is accessed via a stone stairway on southern side with a metal handrail. The weather was cloudy on day of field survey but the site still had extensive sea views to the north, east and south. There is evidence of the “R” and “E” from the aerial EIRE sign at east side of old lighthouse. It is covered in grass but can still be deciphered. N N
  • 71. 64 World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut LOP No.10 - Kilmichael Point, Co. Wexford Record Sheet West facing view of front of building East facing view of back of building South facing view of side of building Interior of building showing fireplace filled with sand and rubbish.. Level of Preservation 1 Irish Grid Reference T25356, 66169 Accurate +/- 5m GPS 52˚43’55.86M, 6˚08’38.79W Orientation 128˚, SE Evidence of Eire Sign No Date of Field Survey 02/06/2014 Appendix 6 Scale indicating level of preservation 1 Building presents fully intact with roof 2 modified over the years 3 Building presents with all walls but roof damaged or missing 4 Building presents with greater that 50% of walls 5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls 6 Building presents only as rubble 7 Building evidenced only by concrete floor/foundation 8 Building and all tracer evidence not in existence.
  • 72. 65 Description: Basic structure presents fully intact. Missing door and window glass. Evidence of cracking and structural deterioration on walls at front and back of building. Fire-place in situ but filled with sand and rubbish. Holes on north facing interior wall consistent with supports for shelving and/or telephone apparatus. One hole containing evidence of wood within. On south wall of building beside doorway evidence of an irregular shaped concrete covered area approximately 1 x 0.75m. To right of this area evidence of a red bricked feature buried for the most part by approximately 20-30cm of sand. On the day of survey, weather was clear and sunny and there was extensive views from the bay window area of the building for 180˚. The surrounding landscape is covered in sand which supports a dense grassy foliage. There was no obvious evidence of the aerial “EIRE” SIGN. www. Googlearth.com Aerial view of Lookout Hut No. 10 (arrowed) at Kilmichael Point, Co. Wexford. N 52˚43’55.86N, 6˚08’38.79W
  • 73. 66
  • 74. 67 World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut LOP No.11 -Cahore , Co. Wexford Record Sheet View of concrete blocks lying in situ at site of Lookout Post. Foundation floor appears to be beneath rubble. Entire site is covered in dense foliage. View of site position within wider landscape Sea view from East end of debris site setting Level of Preservation 6 Irish Grid Reference T22393, 47273 +/-5m GPS 52˚33’96.44N, 6˚11.41.48W Orientation 137˚SE Evidence of Eire Sign No Date of Field Survey 12th June 2014 Appendix 7 Scale indicating level of preservation 1 Building presents fully intact with roof 2 modified over the years 3 Building presents with all walls but roof damaged or missing 4 Building presents with greater that 50% of walls 5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls 6 Building presents only as rubble 7 Building evidenced only by concrete floor/foundation 8 Building and all tracer evidence not in existence.
  • 75. 68 www.Googlearth.com Aerial view of site of Lookout Post at Cahore Co. Wexford. Building presents as rubble lying within dense foliage/scrub. Concrete foundation/floor appears to lie beneath rubble. Debris field extended approximately 4 x 3.8m. Weather on day of field survey was sunny and bright and there were extensive sea views from LOP position to the North, East and South. N N
  • 76. 69 World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut LOP No.12 – Ballyconnigar Hill, Co. Wexford Record Sheet South facing view of eroded area of LOP site North facing view of eroded area of LOP site West facing view of eroded LOP site from beach Letter to chief of Staff, Dept of Defence showing grid reference for LOP at Ballyconnigar Hill Level of Preservation 8 Irish Grid Reference T14433, 33538 approx GPS 53˚10’33.05N, 6˚4’28.71W approx Orientation 146˚SE approx. Evidence of Eire Sign No Date of Field Survey 19th June 2014 Appendix 8 Scale indicating level of preservation 1 Building presents fully intact with roof 2 modified over the years 3 Building presents with all walls but roof damaged or missing 4 Building presents with greater that 50% of walls 5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls 6 Building presents only as rubble 7 Building evidenced only by concrete floor/foundation 8 Building and all tracer evidence not in existence.
  • 77. 70 www.Googlearth.com Aerial view of site of Lookout Post at Ballyconnigar Hill, Co. Wexford with possible hut location Extensive coastal erosion of the area has eradicated all trace of the LOP building and its site. Site is only evidenced by documentary evidence within the Military Archives which gives the grid reference as “3240-1345” (old Irish Military Refs), (IA/MA EDP/30) Weather was sunny and bright on day of field survey and sea views were extensive to the North, East and South. N N
  • 78. 71 World War 2 Coast-Watching Lookout Hut LOP No.13 - Greenore Point , Co. Wexford Record Sheet South West facing view of LOP North facing view of LOP building View of interior of building showing fireplace Greenore Lop in wider landscape setting and interior wall. Also note cut-out mark arrowed at entrance. Level of Preservation 1 Irish Grid Reference T15118, 11192+/-5m GPS 52˚14’26.00N, 6˚ 18’52.60W Orientation 59˚NE Evidence of Eire Sign No Date of Field Survey 18th June 2014 Appendix 9 Scale indicating level of preservation 1 Building presents fully intact with roof 2 modified over the years 3 Building presents with all walls but roof damaged or missing 4 Building presents with greater that 50% of walls 5 Building presents with less than 50% of walls 6 Building presents only as rubble 7 Building evidenced only by concrete floor/foundation 8 Building and all tracer evidence not in existence.
  • 79. 72 www.Googlearth.com Aerial view of site of Lookout Post at Greenore, Co. Wexford Building presents as fully intact and in very good condition. There is a square section marked out by indentation of concrete at doorway, perhaps to collect water. Weather was fine and sunny on day of field survey and visibility of the sea to the north, east and south was exceptionally good. N N