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Time to change towards more

vertically integrated fashion business

                               Intensive collaboration between suppliers and retailers in the fashion,
                               footwear and sport industry is necessary. This is particularly true for
                               brands and multi-brand retailers because the dominant market share of
                               the multi-brand shops has fallen substantially in the last decade.
                               Information exchange between suppliers and retailers alone is no
                               longer sufficient.

                               Several companies, discussed in this ‘food for thought’ article, already
                               changed their business succesfully in order to compete with increasing
                               direct internet sales, the still growing verticals (like H&M and Zara) and
                               the single-brand shops. Many others are still ‘stuck in the middle’...

                               In order to undertake effective organizational change for especially
                               brands, it is essential to establish a way of adequately managing
                               processes on remote shop floors. Only in this way it is possible to gain
                               better insights into consumer behaviour and transform these insights
                               into management and steering information. Eventually, higher sales can
                               be created with better results for not only brands but also for their retail
                               partners.
A recent sector analysis in the clothing
industry¹ shows that supply chain
management based on actual retail sales
(and stock) figures from the shops and
intensive supply chain cooperation is the
only right answer to achieve better results
in the upcoming years. This article aims at
enhancing managers’ awareness of how
to manage retailers and suppliers in order
to ensure their mutual cooperation and
to achieve better results. This article is an
in-depth research study integrated with
concrete practical examples that envisages
the necessary constraints.

Not only retailers but also suppliers should
gain insight figures from the detailed results       Successful companies have already changed their business
coming from the shop floor. Both retailers           processes and have increased their market share substantially.
and brand suppliers should ensure the                Examples of successful companies are those with vertical
quality of output from the shop floor and            structures, such as Zara, Mango and H&M.
aim to improve it: this is in their mutual
interest. Suppliers used to be satisfied with        H&M is active in 37 countries and owns over 2.000 stores as
bringing the buying period of a new                  opposed to 1.800 stores a year ago. Her net profit in the first six
collection to a successful end. However,             months of 2010 increased 33% year on year. H&M realized a
this is too soon to celebrate, because the           turnover of 118 billon Swedish Kronas (12.8 Billion Euros). H&M
real finish is at the end of the season,             opened a flagship store with 6 floors on the Dam Square in
when the retailer should have sold the               Amsterdam recently.
goods to the consumer. Many Dutch
fashion, footwear and sport suppliers still          Meanwhile many German brands such as Esprit, Betty Barclay,
act this way, which causes them to lose a            Gerry Weber, Frank Walder, Gardeur, Brax, Gelco and Street One
much better chance to succeed. German                (perhaps the most important pioneer in chain cooperation) are also
suppliers proved to better act in this new           winning market share, because of there more figure driven supply
way of thinking.                                     chain management.

A turnaround in thinking patterns is
necessary. But it should go even further:
organizations need to change their
internal structures. Optimizing processes
and qualified people on the new positions
will become a major point of interest.

Furthermore, processes and systems need
to support the goals and the people in an
organization. This crucial strategic change
process cannot occur without dedicated
attention from the general management
team. It is certainly not an IT project.
The management of fashion companies
has historically been driven by trade and
emotion. Emotion will always be very
important in this sector. However in these
days, there is a growing need to focus also
on ratio in order to achieve better results.


                                                     Illustration by Piet Paris




1
    ING Economisch Bureau, August 10th, 2010     2
Cor Klein Koerkamp (Kleinmeulman Fashion
from Dalfsen, NL) about Street One:
“Via EDI, Street One has a continuously
updated detailed insight into stock, slow
movers and fast movers of all the Street          Besides management based on figures and supply chain collabora-
One items in our multi-brand store. Street        tion, there are traditional success factors that are still important. These
One translates this data into management          factors include a clearly consistent choice of the target group, a good
information and actively uses it to keep          collection and excellent logistics. Mutual trust is a basic requirement
control and achieve a win-win situation.          everywhere for successful chain collaboration.

Street One ensures that fast selling
products are replenished within one or two
days. I do not have to spend much time on
ordering, importing data and relabeling of
the goods anymore. I almost never have
                                                  Macro-economic developments
to say to my customer ‘Sorry, we don’t
have this item in your size anymore’ and I        increase the necessity of
maintain low levels of stock. The circulation
speed and the output of this brand is
significantly higher than those brands that       adapting organizations
follow a more traditional mode of operation.
                                                  Despite the substantial decline in the volume growth of the fashion
This way of working should be used by             industry, the square meters of shop floors continues to grow, as
more suppliers. In my view, this collabora-       illustrated in Figure 1. This growth will lead to an increasing discrepancy
tion model is crucial to a competitive posi-      in the return-on-investment for successful companies and those who
tion for relatively small multi brand retailers   lag behind.
such as Kleinmeulman Fashion. The brand
gains a grateful, dedicated and strong sales      In 2009 the number of bankruptcy cases of suppliers and multi brand
point in this region and it is able to better     retailers in the fashion sector increased substantially, due to the
analyse and manage the selling of its             economic crisis. These bankruptcies continued in 2010 and even more
collection quickly.                               in 2011. Due to the discrepancy of output, it is inevitable that the
                                                  number of bankruptcies will increase. Companies who lag behind will
Strategic awareness with top management           be the companies who do not change or recognize the necessity of
is changing all over the world. It is now         changes until it is too late and so eventually will see the decreasing
being manifested in the fashion industry.         profit. Then it might be too late because structural change needs certain
The Dutch brands lag far behind in this           time, especially when several links in the supply chain have to change.
change process compared to the German             The next decade will be critical.
market, with some exceptions such as
O’Neill, Garcia, Noppies, Dobotex (Puma)
and Micro. This change process requires           Figure 1: Changes in shop floor square meters and turnover volumes
attention, energy and a lot of time. Footwear     of clothing stores in the Netherlands 2001-2010.
brands such as ECCO from Denmark and
Timberland from America became aware of
this need to change and miscalculated the                    more sales floor space
amount of time required to change. Gant                      despite strong sales decline
from Sweden and Diesel from Italy, also
well-known brands, just recently started
working on this. A lot of brands, still are not
aware of this need to change. How many
wake-up calls do they need?




                                                                        fashion floor space     fashion turnover


                                                  source: CBS, locatus, estimation by en raming ING Economisch Bureau




                                                  3
Concession and Consignment

                                                 All department stores in Europe have gone through the supply chain
                                                 reversal as stated above. In the Netherlands, Bijenkorf has successfully
                                                 implemented these business models. A recent example of supply
                                                 chain reversal is Maison de Bonneterie, a royal retailer with a rich and
                                                 successful history. As time moved on, Maison de Bonneterie was forced
                             Changing            to change its business strategy dramatically. Nowadays Maison de
                                                 Bonneterie’s suppliers decide which products will be offered on the
                                                 shop floor. The supplier also fully finances the stock and carries the
                Business Models                  responsibility for stock risks. The supplier is the owner of the product
                                                 until the point-of-sale to the consumer. Maison de Bonneterie offers
                                                 shop-in-shops, takes care of getting enough customers to the shop floor
Traditionally stock risks in the fashion         and provides an automated infrastructure including intelligent P.O.S.
industry lie mainly with the retailers.          registers, which communicate through electronic data interchange with
Suppliers only produce what retailers signed     the system connecting to the suppliers; Maison de Bonneterie does not
for. Retailers bear all the risks of not         carry the risk of stock, doesn’t pay for the stock, but is paid by the
selling stock to consumers. More and more        supplier as a percentage of the actually realized consumer sales.
suppliers are realizing that such an attitude    Chain reversal is at its best.
towards the current market is short-sighted.
A successful sale season is one when             In recent years, V&D’s concession and consignment models have
articles are actually sold at regular prices     successfully reversed the downward spiral. Now V&D offers an attractive
to consumers at a high circulation speed.        mixture of different clothing brands for consumers and suppliers. In the
If this is not the case, the loss of margin is   press release on June the 30th 2010, Mark McKean, the CEO of V&D,
evident because of inevitable mark downs,        indicated that V&D had achieved the highest growth in the last decade
which lowers the profits of the retailer. The    and a better growth rate than others in the fashion industry (source:
impact on the supplier will be apparent in       GfK, from January until May 2010). McKean states that: “with ‘friendly
the next round of orders in terms of a lower     staff’, ‘attractive products’ and ‘well-known brands’, V&D has shown a
buying budget, notwithstanding the quality       constant growth in appreciation and perception.”
of the collection. This phenomenon can only
be changed if the supplier feels the             V&D in the Netherlands currently owns over 4.000 shop-in-shops of
necessity to be involved in the sell through     A-brands. They are almost all managed via EDI by suppliers. With the
of its collection on the multi brand shop        concession and consignment models, V&D has overcome the capital
floor. Successful companies need to take it      constraints and avoided potential margin losses due to product
one step further.                                markdowns.

These companies not only demonstrate             Meanwhile, the sell through ratios skyrocketed because assortment
their involvement at the retailer level,         management and replenishment of the concession and consignment
but also carry shared responsibility.            goods are fully driven by the supplier, who is also the owner of the
This indicates the trend in supply chain         goods.
reversal. A few practical examples are           Only A-brands with a changed vision have managed to venture in this
illustrated further in the article.              trend. They have learned that a more risky model may lead to a win-win
Nowadays a lot of successful concepts are        situation and now benefits can be materialized.
more supplier driven’ than retailer driven’.
The verticals and mono-brand shops with          Suppliers who stay away from this trend or ignore it will encounter a
A-brands are well-known examples. Also in        erosion of their presence at major shopping streets. Many traditional
the multi-brand context, we come across          multi-brand stores will disappear due to the lack of business
more supplier-driven business models’,           succession, the amount of ever growing mono-brand stores (Esprit,
such as Vendor Managed Inventory (VMI),          Vero Moda, Jack & Jones), exorbitant rental fees for top locations, the
Concession and Consignment. These                expanding of foreign store chains (Charles Vogele, New Look, Primark)
models are distinguished by suppliers            and the continued grow of foreign vertical brands (Zara, H&M).
taking care of the product planning, with
retailers no longer responsible for ordering.




                                                 4
The Dutch company Sinner (selling sport and sunglass products) offers
                                                  a product display directly to multi-brand retailers and manages data
                                                  through electronic data interchange (EDI). Sinner has demonstrated
                                                  a growth in turnover through the VMI model. Her retailers have also
                                                  obtained a high turnover rate per square meter. In addition, the supplier
                 Vendor Managed                   has gained a powerful exposure on external shop floors. This is a
                                                  win-win situation, as discussed in the quotation below.
                    Inventory (VMI)               Romano Capuzzato, the CEO of Sinner:

In the VMI model, the retailer owns the            “Delivering glasses to retailers is not that interesting anymore. It is more
stock, but the supplier manages the re-           interesting which glasses are sold to the end consumer. This process
plenishment of the products. This is also a       determines the end result for the retailer and therefore also for our
‘supplier-driven’ business model that can         company. The discussion between the brand and the retailer no longer
benefit both the retailer and supplier. The       focuses on who should carry the risk in inventory. Based on the mutual
success of the VMI model has been proven          agreements and better choices, we are prepared to take the stock risks.
in practice.                                      We have seen the positive effects of the VMI model on our turnover,
In the VMI model, the retailer uses electronic    circulation speed and profitability. Probably there is still easy money to
data interchange to notify the supplier about     be made in the fashion, footwear and sport industry”.
the stock level and sales items on de-
tailed level (article-color-size). The supplier   If Albert Heijn (operating in a business sector where profit margins are
replenishes the stock at the shop floor at a      very low) could not depend on its supplier and did not have intensive
constant and attractive level.                    EDI to get the products ‘just-in-time’ at their stores, the company would
                                                  no longer exist.
The advantages of VMI for the retailer are
multifold:                                        The VMI model, when compared to other supplier-driven business
• The stock is maintained at a right level        models, requires more than just a strong level of confidence among the
  that prevents stock-out situations and          business partners, the brand and the retailer. It also requires a change
  speeds up the sell through ratios;              in the supplier’s thinking and acting. It requires the supplier to look into
• The stock level can be controlled at a low      the retailer’s area, as well as constantly optimize the merchandise of
  level, resulting in a lower capital             external shop floors.
  requirement;
• It is an automated process that prevents
  mistakes and is more time efficient.

The VMI model benefits the supplier in
terms of less dependence on the retailer
and the sales development process. The
supplier can monitor the process of selling
the products on the shop floor and therefore
better manage merchandise flow.

Street One is an example of a brand that
has already utilized that VMI model for sev-
eral years and achieved satisfactory results
from having its brand in a tight position
on external shop floors. The collaborated
mono-brand and multi-brand retailers now
have a high turnover rate per square meter
with scarcely any price reductions.




                                                  5
With the more traditional business models, especially the pre-order
                                                   processes and also the re-order processes, information of the sales and
                                                   stock from retailers are important for the supplier. With such information,
                                                   the supplier can precisely monitor how the consumers are reacting to its
                                                   merchandise, keep an eye on the trends and then moderate the design
                                                   of new products according to the trends. Suppliers now denote the need
                                                   to `have a short line to the market by offering several collections per
                                                   season´. The trend-related numbers of the actual sales in the market
                                                   have become increasingly important because those numbers allow the
                                                   suppliers to adapt their production at the earliest stage of the season,
                                                   and therefore enable the suppliers to respond to the customers’
                                                   demands and expectations.


                                                   Figure 2: To a digital collaboration with suppliers

                      Retail is detail:                                                                                 digital collaboration
                                                                                                                        with suppliers

 numbers are necessary for                         extra
                                                   turnover
accurate insights and better                                                                                      management based
                                                                                                                  on gures

 As demonstrated in the above mentioned
 sector analysis is managing by retail
 figures becoming more and more crucial                                                  ICT system for orders,
                                                                                         inventory and
 because of structural developments, such                                                sales records
 as internationalization and technological                        Manual orders,
                                                                  inventory and
 improvement. Of course the retailer must                         sales records
 have a detailed insight in its own figures
 in the areas such as purchase, stock,
 sales, customer management and financial
 management. Such data, with perhaps the                                                        more efficiency; lower costs
 exception of customer management, should
 be electronically available for the supplier
 as well; on a weekly basis or perhaps even        Source: Economic bureau ING, August 2010
 on a daily basis. This is relevant not only for
 the ‘supplier-driven’ business models, but
 also for the more traditional ‘retailer-driven’
 models. Without exact, structured and de-         The first set of requirements for a successful and sustainable partner-
 tailed information exchanged between the          ship between a supplier and a retailer cover the awareness of the need
 suppliers and retailers, the supplier-driven      for a structured (EDI) supply chain collaboration and also trust in mutual
 business models such as concession, con-          collaboration. Effective collaboration will lead to a better insight in the
 signment and Vendor Managed Inventory             actual and detailed figures on the shop floor and mutual improvement of
 are not manageable.                               the results.

 The supplier has to obtain an actual and
 structured view of the sales and stock of         The earlier the information is available, the earlier the supplier will be
 all models, colors and sizes in the external      able to fine-tune the next collection and better plan the production.
 shops, so as to adequately analyze and ar-        With a good foundation of collaboration, a higher sales percentage and
 range the assortment of products in its own       eventually higher earnings will be achieved for both. Today, retailers
 automated system.                                 more and more demand guarantees from the supplier regarding returns-,
                                                   exchange-, and/or sell through results. On the other side retailers are
 Electronic data interchange is a condition        more open for shop-in-shops for the brands who are cooperative in this
 for the supplier-driven business models in        field. Van Tilburg Fashion & Sportswear, with a shop floor of over 10.000
 a responsible manner and a mutual added           square meters in Nistelrode (NL), is a good example of this collaborative
 value for the retail-driven business models.      acting. The recently opened Chasin’ shop-in-shop in Van Tilburg is
                                                   operated by retail organization Score, a jeans chain who developed
                                                   Chasin’ as a private label and developed is a brand attractive for other
                                                   retailers. Win-win. Regardless of the business model agreed upon,
                                                   steering on detailed figures and supply chain collaboration are always
                                                   critical for both suppliers and retailers. EDI is necessary for such
                                                   collaborations. Before focusing on EDI as a way of steering on figures
                                                   and supply chain collaboration, we first will we focus on the need for
                                                   organizational transformation at mainly brand suppliers and in a certain
                                                   way also at multi-brand retailers.




                                                     6
Suppliers who have successfully transformed their business change
                                                    have conducted a lot of migration work in moving from a wholesale
                                                    organization to one combining wholesale and retail modes. Basically it’s
                                                    a strategic choice for a transformation is from traditional wholesale to
                                                    multichannel strategy of the brand and can consist of a combination of
                                                    the models mentioned below:
                                                    • Traditional wholesale (with pre-order and re-order);
                                                    • Own (mono-brand) stores;
Organizational transformation:                      • Franchised (mono-brand) stores;
                                                    • Direct Internet sales to the consumer;
  strategy, processes, people                       • Concession/consignment with multi-brand stores
                                                       (mainly department stores);
                                                    • Shop-in-shops;
                      and technology.               • Vendor Managed Inventory.

   The earlier mentioned sector analysis            Retailing does not belong to the supplier’s business area. Many brand
   also states that it is required to transform     suppliers did not recognize this in time and started retail activities on
   the organization and personnel for both          their own. This turned out to be a mistake and the suppliers learned this
   retailers and suppliers so as to obtain a        lesson at a high price. Generally speaking, separating the wholesale
   better steering of the organization and the      from the activities of selling directly to customers is the only correct
   goods. The practice shows that the sales         decision, as proven by the practice of successful precursors.
   persons on the supplier side should be           However a structural organizational transformation requires re-defining
   equipped with more actual numbers and            and recording the organizational tasks, roles and responsibilities.
   this steering process requires personnel         These need to be acknowledged and also subsequently implemented
   with other competencies and more                 by people with suitable skills, not just the people who are available in
   sophisticated tools than those in a              the organization. Retraining and hiring new people is almost inevitable
   traditional and often emotional way.             if a positive organizational transformation is to be achieved. In addition,
   Within a few years, a transformation at          the company needs to replace or adapt the technology so as to ensure
   suppliers towards management by figures          that it adequately supports the people and processes in the transformed
   can result in the need to replace or retrain     organization.
   traditional thinking personnel by another
   type of employee.                                Another strategy can be to outsource the retail activities to a
   The supplier needs to know how to cope           sophisticated retailer. Gebr. Coster is a retailer who’s responding
   with the figures from the shop floor of her      successfully to this strategy. With a long time track record in
   retailer and to achieve this, electronic data    operating some 40 Levi’s shops, Gebr. Coster now also operates mono
   exchange is necessary. Processes, tools          brand shops of Dockers, G-Star, Adidas and most recently: Polo Ralph
   and people (roles, tasks and responsibili-       Lauren. Combined business models: traditional franchise, concession
   ties) need to be aligned according to the        and VMI. Now Gebr. Coster even opened a so called duo brand shop
   transformation of the organization.              (combination of G-Star and Adidas). 100% EDI-enabled of course.

   A strategic re-orientation is the first impor-   The supplier can use EDI to send electronic data on product information,
   tant step. Fundamental choices have to be        order conforming, packing slips and/or electronic invoices) to the
   made on the growing importance of supply         retailers, as well as receive electronic data on sales reports, stock data
   chain collaboration among the organization       and electronic orders from retailers.
   and its customers, and the possible applica-
   tion of’ supplier-driven’ business models        In addition to EDI, the IT-systems on the supplier side should be able
   such as concession, consignment and              to process the data provided by the retailers, analyze it and eventually
   VMI. Since making the necessary changes          transform it into information for shop floor management (replenishment
   can take much more time than companies           and pricing). A typical wholesale can’t cope with sales prices (including
   previously considered, it is important for       VAT) and conduct profit calculations at the level of the shop floor.
   the responsible manager to make the right
   decisions (medium and long-term decisions)       On the other hand the IT-systems on the retailer side should be able to
   about their company’s role in the supply         automatically process incoming electronic data messages (product data
   chain for the upcoming years.                    and more) of the suppliers end send back proper and actual shop floor
                                                    data to be processed in the suppliers’ systems.




                                                    7
The most important benefits from EDI include:

                                                    • Product information is already recorded in the supplier system and
                                                      does not need to be input into the retailer system, because EDI
                                                      transfers the product data including barcodes and sales prices from
                                                      the supplier side to the retailer’s system and registers. This process
                                                      saves time and reduces errors. Both chain partners have the same
                                                      set of data, which is important for a qualitative supply chain
                                                      collaboration;
                                                    • Cost savings and time earnings on retailer side as a result of
                                                      electronic order conformations and electronic packing slips by the
                                                      supplier. Also the ‘time to shop floor’ can be shortened. This is
                                                      important to compete with the verticals and mono-brand shops;
                                                    • The delivery of invoices via EDI not only saves costs for the retailer,
                 EDI: the condition                   but also enables an automatic input and checking of the invoices;
                                                    • Retailers can automatically create orders on a weekly basis with
                                                      predefined order parameters so as to avoid out of stocks for each
for supply chain collaboration                        individual shop at style-color-size level. This is an advantage for both
                                                      partners. Indeed, the retailer can automatically create orders and the
  As mentioned before, electronic data inter-         supplier can automatically process the orders via EDI;
  change (EDI) between the retailer and the         • The daily or weekly turnover data and the stock levels per defined
  supplier has become an essential condition          period are of interest for the supplier in order to monitor the sales of
  for adequate supply chain collaboration. It is      the merchandise. This is applicable for all business models.
  no longer sufficient to provide just a printed,     However, in the case of supplier-driven models, EDI is the lifeblood
  pdf or e-mail list with the results from the        of the business (‘without EDI, no concession, no consignment and no
  shop floor.                                         Vendor Managed Inventory’).

  The turnover and stock levels which the
  retailer provides to the suppliers should be
  structured, automated and available in time
  on detailed level (item, color, size).
  The data should be also organized in a way
  that it can be processed automatically by
  the supplier’s system. With EDI, the data         figure 3:
  and processes in the supplier’s side are
                                                                                                       PRICAT        1
  linked to the IT-system on the shop floor,
  and vice versa. EDI is not just designed for                                                         ORDRSP        2

  the supplier-driven business models such
                                                                                                       ORDCHG
  as concession, consignment and Vendor
  Managed Inventory; the traditional                       Leverancier
                                                            Supplier
                                                                                                       DESADV    3       4   5   6
                                                                                                                                              Retailer
                                                                                                                                                Retailer
  pre-order and re-order processes aiming at                                                           INVOIC        7       8
  a high efficiency can also benefit from EDI                                                          SLSRPT
  (figure 3).                                                                            9        10
                                                                                                       INVRPT

                                                                                             11        ORDERS



                                                    1.    Artikelaanmaak – data sneller quicker
                                                          Creating article 60% - 80%                                             EDI berichtcodes: catalog; product data
                                                                                                                                 PRICAT = price
                                                    2.    Orderinvoer –-80% automatisch
                                                          Order entry 80% automated                                              PRICAT = artikelstamdata
                                                                                                                                  ORDRSP = order respons
                                                                                                                                 ORDRSP = orderbevestiging
                                                    3.    Binnenmelding goederen –-80% automatisch
                                                          Receiving goods admin 80% automated                                     DESADV = despatch advice /
                                                                                                                                 ORDCHG = orderaanpassing
                                                    4.    Ontvangstcontrole – 50% sneller
                                                          Check packingslips - 50% quicker                                       DESADV = pakbon note
                                                                                                                                  advanced shipping
                                                                                                                                 INVOIC = factuur
                                                    5.    Prijzen en labelen – 100% automatisch
                                                          Pricing and labeling - 100% automated                                   INVOIC = invoice
                                                                                                                                 SLSRPT = doorverkoopcijfers
                                                    6.    Filiaalverdeling – -100% automatisch
                                                          Cross docking 100% automated                                           INVRPT = = sales report
                                                                                                                                  SLSRPT voorraadgegevens
                                                                                                                                 ORDERS = order (NOS)
                                                    7.    Factuurinvoer – 90% automatisch
                                                          Invoice entry - 90% automated                                              INVRPT = inventory report
                                                    8.    Factuurcontrole – 100% autoamtischautomated
                                                          Checking invoice details - 100%                                            ORDERS = orders (NOS)
                                                    9.    Productbeschikbaarheid – aanzienlijk beter
                                                          Product availability - much better
                                                    10.   Nieuwe samenwerkingsvormen met leveranciers mogelijk
                                                          Branded retail - new ways of business
                                                    11.   Replenishment never-out-of-stock-collectie (NOS) – 100%
                                                          Replenishment basics - 100% automated
                                                          automatisch



                                                    source: FashionUnited Indicia BV




                                                    8
The introduction of VMI itself is not a
guarantee for financial success. Therefore
the detailed data analysis is important for
both suppliers and retailers to re-design
their processes. This requires organizational     Based on such information, collections are developed locally and the
transformation, not only for the retailer, but    inventory is optimally controlled. This will lead to reduction of lost-sales
also for the supplier.                            and returns. Inventory is traditionally a high cost center in the fashion
                                                  industry. The department of logistics has to act as a chain director and
Sidney Bialystock, COO Sapph lingerie,            become increasingly important. Terms like supply chain management
discussed how to become successful as a           are introduced.
brand now and in the future:
                                                  Together with the retailer there is a cost perspective from the whole
The rules of the game change constantly.          chain: who is best in which areas, where can we put the cost most
For a brand builder, this always needs to be      efficiently in the chain, what knowledge about the market and the
kept in mind. It also requires not only quality   consumer do we have.
management and employees but also a
different way of steering the supply chain.       At the end, everything is about the trust to share information and to
In the past, the focus was placed on the          benefit from the collaboration. For us, as a young brand, this means
product and the retailer was the dominator.       that we are not limited by such advancement. We have arranged our
Nowadays the whole business model has to          organization and systems according to the new business models and
be dedicated to deliver what the customer/        are able to adapt rapidly when necessary. Together with FashionUnited
consumer needs, so that this customer-            Indicia we are making great leaps forward. Learning from the set-ups of
based focus is the foundation for the             processes in other branches, where traditionally margins are under
business model.                                   pressure, helps us.

It is another way of reasoning. The traditio-
nal product management requires thinking              Surf to www.pranke.com and www.fashionunitedindicia.com for
about product concepts and then marketing             more indepth information about supply chain digitalization in fashion.
is used to create a place for your brand in           Or have a look at the website of the Dutch Platform Ketendigitalise
consumers’ brains. The sales force is now             ring Mode, Schoenen en Sport: www.mssketendigitaal.nl whose goal
being transformed from salesmen to consul-            it is not only to initiate electronic collaboration between the suppliers
tants who collaborate with the retailer so as         and retailers in the Dutch fashion market, but also to stimulate,
to locate better solutions. IT and EDI are the        to facilitate, to keep affordable and where possible to further
tools for learning about the customer needs,          standardize processes as well as message formats. FashionUnited
including where they are and what products            Indicia is not only distributor for Germany based Pranke (eGate,
they are buying (consumer behavior). In               eBiss), but also facilitates the data exchange hub for the Platform
addition, websites and web shops play an              Ketendigitalisering and beyond.
important role in gaining information from
consumers. Social media such as Facebook
and Twitter are also important.




                                                  9
October 2010, in close cooperation between
Steven Witteveen (FashionUnited Indicia) and
Mark Stol (FCTB)

Steven Witteveen,                                    Mark Stol,
FashionUnited Indicia BV                             FCTB BV
Twitter/LinkedIn: stevenwitteveen
Mobile phone: +31 653 137303




FashionUnited Indicia BV                             FCTB BV
www.fashionunitedindicia.com                         www.fctb.nl
info@fashionunitedindicia.com                        info@fctb.nl
t. (036) 538 28 38                                   t. (020) 471 33 17

FashionUnited Indicia BV provides added              FCTB BV is a down to earth consultancy firm,
values to both retailers and suppliers in fashion.   focussing on business issues regarding
On the business issues supply chain manage-          Innovation & Change.
ment, supply chain integration and electronic
data interchange (EDI).




                                          10

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Change In Fashion Whitepaper English Vs1.1

  • 1. Time to change towards more vertically integrated fashion business Intensive collaboration between suppliers and retailers in the fashion, footwear and sport industry is necessary. This is particularly true for brands and multi-brand retailers because the dominant market share of the multi-brand shops has fallen substantially in the last decade. Information exchange between suppliers and retailers alone is no longer sufficient. Several companies, discussed in this ‘food for thought’ article, already changed their business succesfully in order to compete with increasing direct internet sales, the still growing verticals (like H&M and Zara) and the single-brand shops. Many others are still ‘stuck in the middle’... In order to undertake effective organizational change for especially brands, it is essential to establish a way of adequately managing processes on remote shop floors. Only in this way it is possible to gain better insights into consumer behaviour and transform these insights into management and steering information. Eventually, higher sales can be created with better results for not only brands but also for their retail partners.
  • 2. A recent sector analysis in the clothing industry¹ shows that supply chain management based on actual retail sales (and stock) figures from the shops and intensive supply chain cooperation is the only right answer to achieve better results in the upcoming years. This article aims at enhancing managers’ awareness of how to manage retailers and suppliers in order to ensure their mutual cooperation and to achieve better results. This article is an in-depth research study integrated with concrete practical examples that envisages the necessary constraints. Not only retailers but also suppliers should gain insight figures from the detailed results Successful companies have already changed their business coming from the shop floor. Both retailers processes and have increased their market share substantially. and brand suppliers should ensure the Examples of successful companies are those with vertical quality of output from the shop floor and structures, such as Zara, Mango and H&M. aim to improve it: this is in their mutual interest. Suppliers used to be satisfied with H&M is active in 37 countries and owns over 2.000 stores as bringing the buying period of a new opposed to 1.800 stores a year ago. Her net profit in the first six collection to a successful end. However, months of 2010 increased 33% year on year. H&M realized a this is too soon to celebrate, because the turnover of 118 billon Swedish Kronas (12.8 Billion Euros). H&M real finish is at the end of the season, opened a flagship store with 6 floors on the Dam Square in when the retailer should have sold the Amsterdam recently. goods to the consumer. Many Dutch fashion, footwear and sport suppliers still Meanwhile many German brands such as Esprit, Betty Barclay, act this way, which causes them to lose a Gerry Weber, Frank Walder, Gardeur, Brax, Gelco and Street One much better chance to succeed. German (perhaps the most important pioneer in chain cooperation) are also suppliers proved to better act in this new winning market share, because of there more figure driven supply way of thinking. chain management. A turnaround in thinking patterns is necessary. But it should go even further: organizations need to change their internal structures. Optimizing processes and qualified people on the new positions will become a major point of interest. Furthermore, processes and systems need to support the goals and the people in an organization. This crucial strategic change process cannot occur without dedicated attention from the general management team. It is certainly not an IT project. The management of fashion companies has historically been driven by trade and emotion. Emotion will always be very important in this sector. However in these days, there is a growing need to focus also on ratio in order to achieve better results. Illustration by Piet Paris 1 ING Economisch Bureau, August 10th, 2010 2
  • 3. Cor Klein Koerkamp (Kleinmeulman Fashion from Dalfsen, NL) about Street One: “Via EDI, Street One has a continuously updated detailed insight into stock, slow movers and fast movers of all the Street Besides management based on figures and supply chain collabora- One items in our multi-brand store. Street tion, there are traditional success factors that are still important. These One translates this data into management factors include a clearly consistent choice of the target group, a good information and actively uses it to keep collection and excellent logistics. Mutual trust is a basic requirement control and achieve a win-win situation. everywhere for successful chain collaboration. Street One ensures that fast selling products are replenished within one or two days. I do not have to spend much time on ordering, importing data and relabeling of the goods anymore. I almost never have Macro-economic developments to say to my customer ‘Sorry, we don’t have this item in your size anymore’ and I increase the necessity of maintain low levels of stock. The circulation speed and the output of this brand is significantly higher than those brands that adapting organizations follow a more traditional mode of operation. Despite the substantial decline in the volume growth of the fashion This way of working should be used by industry, the square meters of shop floors continues to grow, as more suppliers. In my view, this collabora- illustrated in Figure 1. This growth will lead to an increasing discrepancy tion model is crucial to a competitive posi- in the return-on-investment for successful companies and those who tion for relatively small multi brand retailers lag behind. such as Kleinmeulman Fashion. The brand gains a grateful, dedicated and strong sales In 2009 the number of bankruptcy cases of suppliers and multi brand point in this region and it is able to better retailers in the fashion sector increased substantially, due to the analyse and manage the selling of its economic crisis. These bankruptcies continued in 2010 and even more collection quickly. in 2011. Due to the discrepancy of output, it is inevitable that the number of bankruptcies will increase. Companies who lag behind will Strategic awareness with top management be the companies who do not change or recognize the necessity of is changing all over the world. It is now changes until it is too late and so eventually will see the decreasing being manifested in the fashion industry. profit. Then it might be too late because structural change needs certain The Dutch brands lag far behind in this time, especially when several links in the supply chain have to change. change process compared to the German The next decade will be critical. market, with some exceptions such as O’Neill, Garcia, Noppies, Dobotex (Puma) and Micro. This change process requires Figure 1: Changes in shop floor square meters and turnover volumes attention, energy and a lot of time. Footwear of clothing stores in the Netherlands 2001-2010. brands such as ECCO from Denmark and Timberland from America became aware of this need to change and miscalculated the more sales floor space amount of time required to change. Gant despite strong sales decline from Sweden and Diesel from Italy, also well-known brands, just recently started working on this. A lot of brands, still are not aware of this need to change. How many wake-up calls do they need? fashion floor space fashion turnover source: CBS, locatus, estimation by en raming ING Economisch Bureau 3
  • 4. Concession and Consignment All department stores in Europe have gone through the supply chain reversal as stated above. In the Netherlands, Bijenkorf has successfully implemented these business models. A recent example of supply chain reversal is Maison de Bonneterie, a royal retailer with a rich and successful history. As time moved on, Maison de Bonneterie was forced Changing to change its business strategy dramatically. Nowadays Maison de Bonneterie’s suppliers decide which products will be offered on the shop floor. The supplier also fully finances the stock and carries the Business Models responsibility for stock risks. The supplier is the owner of the product until the point-of-sale to the consumer. Maison de Bonneterie offers shop-in-shops, takes care of getting enough customers to the shop floor Traditionally stock risks in the fashion and provides an automated infrastructure including intelligent P.O.S. industry lie mainly with the retailers. registers, which communicate through electronic data interchange with Suppliers only produce what retailers signed the system connecting to the suppliers; Maison de Bonneterie does not for. Retailers bear all the risks of not carry the risk of stock, doesn’t pay for the stock, but is paid by the selling stock to consumers. More and more supplier as a percentage of the actually realized consumer sales. suppliers are realizing that such an attitude Chain reversal is at its best. towards the current market is short-sighted. A successful sale season is one when In recent years, V&D’s concession and consignment models have articles are actually sold at regular prices successfully reversed the downward spiral. Now V&D offers an attractive to consumers at a high circulation speed. mixture of different clothing brands for consumers and suppliers. In the If this is not the case, the loss of margin is press release on June the 30th 2010, Mark McKean, the CEO of V&D, evident because of inevitable mark downs, indicated that V&D had achieved the highest growth in the last decade which lowers the profits of the retailer. The and a better growth rate than others in the fashion industry (source: impact on the supplier will be apparent in GfK, from January until May 2010). McKean states that: “with ‘friendly the next round of orders in terms of a lower staff’, ‘attractive products’ and ‘well-known brands’, V&D has shown a buying budget, notwithstanding the quality constant growth in appreciation and perception.” of the collection. This phenomenon can only be changed if the supplier feels the V&D in the Netherlands currently owns over 4.000 shop-in-shops of necessity to be involved in the sell through A-brands. They are almost all managed via EDI by suppliers. With the of its collection on the multi brand shop concession and consignment models, V&D has overcome the capital floor. Successful companies need to take it constraints and avoided potential margin losses due to product one step further. markdowns. These companies not only demonstrate Meanwhile, the sell through ratios skyrocketed because assortment their involvement at the retailer level, management and replenishment of the concession and consignment but also carry shared responsibility. goods are fully driven by the supplier, who is also the owner of the This indicates the trend in supply chain goods. reversal. A few practical examples are Only A-brands with a changed vision have managed to venture in this illustrated further in the article. trend. They have learned that a more risky model may lead to a win-win Nowadays a lot of successful concepts are situation and now benefits can be materialized. more supplier driven’ than retailer driven’. The verticals and mono-brand shops with Suppliers who stay away from this trend or ignore it will encounter a A-brands are well-known examples. Also in erosion of their presence at major shopping streets. Many traditional the multi-brand context, we come across multi-brand stores will disappear due to the lack of business more supplier-driven business models’, succession, the amount of ever growing mono-brand stores (Esprit, such as Vendor Managed Inventory (VMI), Vero Moda, Jack & Jones), exorbitant rental fees for top locations, the Concession and Consignment. These expanding of foreign store chains (Charles Vogele, New Look, Primark) models are distinguished by suppliers and the continued grow of foreign vertical brands (Zara, H&M). taking care of the product planning, with retailers no longer responsible for ordering. 4
  • 5. The Dutch company Sinner (selling sport and sunglass products) offers a product display directly to multi-brand retailers and manages data through electronic data interchange (EDI). Sinner has demonstrated a growth in turnover through the VMI model. Her retailers have also obtained a high turnover rate per square meter. In addition, the supplier Vendor Managed has gained a powerful exposure on external shop floors. This is a win-win situation, as discussed in the quotation below. Inventory (VMI) Romano Capuzzato, the CEO of Sinner: In the VMI model, the retailer owns the “Delivering glasses to retailers is not that interesting anymore. It is more stock, but the supplier manages the re- interesting which glasses are sold to the end consumer. This process plenishment of the products. This is also a determines the end result for the retailer and therefore also for our ‘supplier-driven’ business model that can company. The discussion between the brand and the retailer no longer benefit both the retailer and supplier. The focuses on who should carry the risk in inventory. Based on the mutual success of the VMI model has been proven agreements and better choices, we are prepared to take the stock risks. in practice. We have seen the positive effects of the VMI model on our turnover, In the VMI model, the retailer uses electronic circulation speed and profitability. Probably there is still easy money to data interchange to notify the supplier about be made in the fashion, footwear and sport industry”. the stock level and sales items on de- tailed level (article-color-size). The supplier If Albert Heijn (operating in a business sector where profit margins are replenishes the stock at the shop floor at a very low) could not depend on its supplier and did not have intensive constant and attractive level. EDI to get the products ‘just-in-time’ at their stores, the company would no longer exist. The advantages of VMI for the retailer are multifold: The VMI model, when compared to other supplier-driven business • The stock is maintained at a right level models, requires more than just a strong level of confidence among the that prevents stock-out situations and business partners, the brand and the retailer. It also requires a change speeds up the sell through ratios; in the supplier’s thinking and acting. It requires the supplier to look into • The stock level can be controlled at a low the retailer’s area, as well as constantly optimize the merchandise of level, resulting in a lower capital external shop floors. requirement; • It is an automated process that prevents mistakes and is more time efficient. The VMI model benefits the supplier in terms of less dependence on the retailer and the sales development process. The supplier can monitor the process of selling the products on the shop floor and therefore better manage merchandise flow. Street One is an example of a brand that has already utilized that VMI model for sev- eral years and achieved satisfactory results from having its brand in a tight position on external shop floors. The collaborated mono-brand and multi-brand retailers now have a high turnover rate per square meter with scarcely any price reductions. 5
  • 6. With the more traditional business models, especially the pre-order processes and also the re-order processes, information of the sales and stock from retailers are important for the supplier. With such information, the supplier can precisely monitor how the consumers are reacting to its merchandise, keep an eye on the trends and then moderate the design of new products according to the trends. Suppliers now denote the need to `have a short line to the market by offering several collections per season´. The trend-related numbers of the actual sales in the market have become increasingly important because those numbers allow the suppliers to adapt their production at the earliest stage of the season, and therefore enable the suppliers to respond to the customers’ demands and expectations. Figure 2: To a digital collaboration with suppliers Retail is detail: digital collaboration with suppliers numbers are necessary for extra turnover accurate insights and better management based on gures As demonstrated in the above mentioned sector analysis is managing by retail figures becoming more and more crucial ICT system for orders, inventory and because of structural developments, such sales records as internationalization and technological Manual orders, inventory and improvement. Of course the retailer must sales records have a detailed insight in its own figures in the areas such as purchase, stock, sales, customer management and financial management. Such data, with perhaps the more efficiency; lower costs exception of customer management, should be electronically available for the supplier as well; on a weekly basis or perhaps even Source: Economic bureau ING, August 2010 on a daily basis. This is relevant not only for the ‘supplier-driven’ business models, but also for the more traditional ‘retailer-driven’ models. Without exact, structured and de- The first set of requirements for a successful and sustainable partner- tailed information exchanged between the ship between a supplier and a retailer cover the awareness of the need suppliers and retailers, the supplier-driven for a structured (EDI) supply chain collaboration and also trust in mutual business models such as concession, con- collaboration. Effective collaboration will lead to a better insight in the signment and Vendor Managed Inventory actual and detailed figures on the shop floor and mutual improvement of are not manageable. the results. The supplier has to obtain an actual and structured view of the sales and stock of The earlier the information is available, the earlier the supplier will be all models, colors and sizes in the external able to fine-tune the next collection and better plan the production. shops, so as to adequately analyze and ar- With a good foundation of collaboration, a higher sales percentage and range the assortment of products in its own eventually higher earnings will be achieved for both. Today, retailers automated system. more and more demand guarantees from the supplier regarding returns-, exchange-, and/or sell through results. On the other side retailers are Electronic data interchange is a condition more open for shop-in-shops for the brands who are cooperative in this for the supplier-driven business models in field. Van Tilburg Fashion & Sportswear, with a shop floor of over 10.000 a responsible manner and a mutual added square meters in Nistelrode (NL), is a good example of this collaborative value for the retail-driven business models. acting. The recently opened Chasin’ shop-in-shop in Van Tilburg is operated by retail organization Score, a jeans chain who developed Chasin’ as a private label and developed is a brand attractive for other retailers. Win-win. Regardless of the business model agreed upon, steering on detailed figures and supply chain collaboration are always critical for both suppliers and retailers. EDI is necessary for such collaborations. Before focusing on EDI as a way of steering on figures and supply chain collaboration, we first will we focus on the need for organizational transformation at mainly brand suppliers and in a certain way also at multi-brand retailers. 6
  • 7. Suppliers who have successfully transformed their business change have conducted a lot of migration work in moving from a wholesale organization to one combining wholesale and retail modes. Basically it’s a strategic choice for a transformation is from traditional wholesale to multichannel strategy of the brand and can consist of a combination of the models mentioned below: • Traditional wholesale (with pre-order and re-order); • Own (mono-brand) stores; Organizational transformation: • Franchised (mono-brand) stores; • Direct Internet sales to the consumer; strategy, processes, people • Concession/consignment with multi-brand stores (mainly department stores); • Shop-in-shops; and technology. • Vendor Managed Inventory. The earlier mentioned sector analysis Retailing does not belong to the supplier’s business area. Many brand also states that it is required to transform suppliers did not recognize this in time and started retail activities on the organization and personnel for both their own. This turned out to be a mistake and the suppliers learned this retailers and suppliers so as to obtain a lesson at a high price. Generally speaking, separating the wholesale better steering of the organization and the from the activities of selling directly to customers is the only correct goods. The practice shows that the sales decision, as proven by the practice of successful precursors. persons on the supplier side should be However a structural organizational transformation requires re-defining equipped with more actual numbers and and recording the organizational tasks, roles and responsibilities. this steering process requires personnel These need to be acknowledged and also subsequently implemented with other competencies and more by people with suitable skills, not just the people who are available in sophisticated tools than those in a the organization. Retraining and hiring new people is almost inevitable traditional and often emotional way. if a positive organizational transformation is to be achieved. In addition, Within a few years, a transformation at the company needs to replace or adapt the technology so as to ensure suppliers towards management by figures that it adequately supports the people and processes in the transformed can result in the need to replace or retrain organization. traditional thinking personnel by another type of employee. Another strategy can be to outsource the retail activities to a The supplier needs to know how to cope sophisticated retailer. Gebr. Coster is a retailer who’s responding with the figures from the shop floor of her successfully to this strategy. With a long time track record in retailer and to achieve this, electronic data operating some 40 Levi’s shops, Gebr. Coster now also operates mono exchange is necessary. Processes, tools brand shops of Dockers, G-Star, Adidas and most recently: Polo Ralph and people (roles, tasks and responsibili- Lauren. Combined business models: traditional franchise, concession ties) need to be aligned according to the and VMI. Now Gebr. Coster even opened a so called duo brand shop transformation of the organization. (combination of G-Star and Adidas). 100% EDI-enabled of course. A strategic re-orientation is the first impor- The supplier can use EDI to send electronic data on product information, tant step. Fundamental choices have to be order conforming, packing slips and/or electronic invoices) to the made on the growing importance of supply retailers, as well as receive electronic data on sales reports, stock data chain collaboration among the organization and electronic orders from retailers. and its customers, and the possible applica- tion of’ supplier-driven’ business models In addition to EDI, the IT-systems on the supplier side should be able such as concession, consignment and to process the data provided by the retailers, analyze it and eventually VMI. Since making the necessary changes transform it into information for shop floor management (replenishment can take much more time than companies and pricing). A typical wholesale can’t cope with sales prices (including previously considered, it is important for VAT) and conduct profit calculations at the level of the shop floor. the responsible manager to make the right decisions (medium and long-term decisions) On the other hand the IT-systems on the retailer side should be able to about their company’s role in the supply automatically process incoming electronic data messages (product data chain for the upcoming years. and more) of the suppliers end send back proper and actual shop floor data to be processed in the suppliers’ systems. 7
  • 8. The most important benefits from EDI include: • Product information is already recorded in the supplier system and does not need to be input into the retailer system, because EDI transfers the product data including barcodes and sales prices from the supplier side to the retailer’s system and registers. This process saves time and reduces errors. Both chain partners have the same set of data, which is important for a qualitative supply chain collaboration; • Cost savings and time earnings on retailer side as a result of electronic order conformations and electronic packing slips by the supplier. Also the ‘time to shop floor’ can be shortened. This is important to compete with the verticals and mono-brand shops; • The delivery of invoices via EDI not only saves costs for the retailer, EDI: the condition but also enables an automatic input and checking of the invoices; • Retailers can automatically create orders on a weekly basis with predefined order parameters so as to avoid out of stocks for each for supply chain collaboration individual shop at style-color-size level. This is an advantage for both partners. Indeed, the retailer can automatically create orders and the As mentioned before, electronic data inter- supplier can automatically process the orders via EDI; change (EDI) between the retailer and the • The daily or weekly turnover data and the stock levels per defined supplier has become an essential condition period are of interest for the supplier in order to monitor the sales of for adequate supply chain collaboration. It is the merchandise. This is applicable for all business models. no longer sufficient to provide just a printed, However, in the case of supplier-driven models, EDI is the lifeblood pdf or e-mail list with the results from the of the business (‘without EDI, no concession, no consignment and no shop floor. Vendor Managed Inventory’). The turnover and stock levels which the retailer provides to the suppliers should be structured, automated and available in time on detailed level (item, color, size). The data should be also organized in a way that it can be processed automatically by the supplier’s system. With EDI, the data figure 3: and processes in the supplier’s side are PRICAT 1 linked to the IT-system on the shop floor, and vice versa. EDI is not just designed for ORDRSP 2 the supplier-driven business models such ORDCHG as concession, consignment and Vendor Managed Inventory; the traditional Leverancier Supplier DESADV 3 4 5 6 Retailer Retailer pre-order and re-order processes aiming at INVOIC 7 8 a high efficiency can also benefit from EDI SLSRPT (figure 3). 9 10 INVRPT 11 ORDERS 1. Artikelaanmaak – data sneller quicker Creating article 60% - 80% EDI berichtcodes: catalog; product data PRICAT = price 2. Orderinvoer –-80% automatisch Order entry 80% automated PRICAT = artikelstamdata ORDRSP = order respons ORDRSP = orderbevestiging 3. Binnenmelding goederen –-80% automatisch Receiving goods admin 80% automated DESADV = despatch advice / ORDCHG = orderaanpassing 4. Ontvangstcontrole – 50% sneller Check packingslips - 50% quicker DESADV = pakbon note advanced shipping INVOIC = factuur 5. Prijzen en labelen – 100% automatisch Pricing and labeling - 100% automated INVOIC = invoice SLSRPT = doorverkoopcijfers 6. Filiaalverdeling – -100% automatisch Cross docking 100% automated INVRPT = = sales report SLSRPT voorraadgegevens ORDERS = order (NOS) 7. Factuurinvoer – 90% automatisch Invoice entry - 90% automated INVRPT = inventory report 8. Factuurcontrole – 100% autoamtischautomated Checking invoice details - 100% ORDERS = orders (NOS) 9. Productbeschikbaarheid – aanzienlijk beter Product availability - much better 10. Nieuwe samenwerkingsvormen met leveranciers mogelijk Branded retail - new ways of business 11. Replenishment never-out-of-stock-collectie (NOS) – 100% Replenishment basics - 100% automated automatisch source: FashionUnited Indicia BV 8
  • 9. The introduction of VMI itself is not a guarantee for financial success. Therefore the detailed data analysis is important for both suppliers and retailers to re-design their processes. This requires organizational Based on such information, collections are developed locally and the transformation, not only for the retailer, but inventory is optimally controlled. This will lead to reduction of lost-sales also for the supplier. and returns. Inventory is traditionally a high cost center in the fashion industry. The department of logistics has to act as a chain director and Sidney Bialystock, COO Sapph lingerie, become increasingly important. Terms like supply chain management discussed how to become successful as a are introduced. brand now and in the future: Together with the retailer there is a cost perspective from the whole The rules of the game change constantly. chain: who is best in which areas, where can we put the cost most For a brand builder, this always needs to be efficiently in the chain, what knowledge about the market and the kept in mind. It also requires not only quality consumer do we have. management and employees but also a different way of steering the supply chain. At the end, everything is about the trust to share information and to In the past, the focus was placed on the benefit from the collaboration. For us, as a young brand, this means product and the retailer was the dominator. that we are not limited by such advancement. We have arranged our Nowadays the whole business model has to organization and systems according to the new business models and be dedicated to deliver what the customer/ are able to adapt rapidly when necessary. Together with FashionUnited consumer needs, so that this customer- Indicia we are making great leaps forward. Learning from the set-ups of based focus is the foundation for the processes in other branches, where traditionally margins are under business model. pressure, helps us. It is another way of reasoning. The traditio- nal product management requires thinking Surf to www.pranke.com and www.fashionunitedindicia.com for about product concepts and then marketing more indepth information about supply chain digitalization in fashion. is used to create a place for your brand in Or have a look at the website of the Dutch Platform Ketendigitalise consumers’ brains. The sales force is now ring Mode, Schoenen en Sport: www.mssketendigitaal.nl whose goal being transformed from salesmen to consul- it is not only to initiate electronic collaboration between the suppliers tants who collaborate with the retailer so as and retailers in the Dutch fashion market, but also to stimulate, to locate better solutions. IT and EDI are the to facilitate, to keep affordable and where possible to further tools for learning about the customer needs, standardize processes as well as message formats. FashionUnited including where they are and what products Indicia is not only distributor for Germany based Pranke (eGate, they are buying (consumer behavior). In eBiss), but also facilitates the data exchange hub for the Platform addition, websites and web shops play an Ketendigitalisering and beyond. important role in gaining information from consumers. Social media such as Facebook and Twitter are also important. 9
  • 10. October 2010, in close cooperation between Steven Witteveen (FashionUnited Indicia) and Mark Stol (FCTB) Steven Witteveen, Mark Stol, FashionUnited Indicia BV FCTB BV Twitter/LinkedIn: stevenwitteveen Mobile phone: +31 653 137303 FashionUnited Indicia BV FCTB BV www.fashionunitedindicia.com www.fctb.nl info@fashionunitedindicia.com info@fctb.nl t. (036) 538 28 38 t. (020) 471 33 17 FashionUnited Indicia BV provides added FCTB BV is a down to earth consultancy firm, values to both retailers and suppliers in fashion. focussing on business issues regarding On the business issues supply chain manage- Innovation & Change. ment, supply chain integration and electronic data interchange (EDI). 10