This document provides an overview of East Bali, Indonesia, focusing on the village of Penglipuran. It describes the traditional architecture and layout of homes in Penglipuran Village, surrounded by rice fields. It also discusses the charming Candi Beach Resort and Spa in Candidasa, and recommends restaurants to try in Ubud, such as Bebek Bengil for duck dishes. Information on how to get to East Bali and places to stay are also included.

1. February 2015
INSIDE
30 pages (max 6000 words)
East Bali
The Emerald of Bali
Text: Rini Sucahyo, Photos: Doc. TAMASYA
A pioneering spirit ripples through the cobblestoned alleys of Penglipuran Village.
Four men play dominoes in front of a shrine-like Balinese traditional house. Next to
them is a carving of a demon designed to frighten away evil spirits. Welcome to East
Bali and discover what have been attracting well-heeled travelers and expats alike.
A visitor to Penglipuran Village would be forgiven for thinking that temples adorn every
corner of its neatly cobblestoned streets and all of the spaces in between. High walls
with narrow doorways allow only the briefest views by passersby, while above the walls
are tantalizing glimpses of exquisitely carved shrines, some no larger than birdcages.
However, these are in fact private residences, more properly called compounds or
karang, which may house several generations of Balinese families at a time.
I was clearly no longer within Bali’s most popular touristy boundaries. I’m never much
into old and ancient buildings so these shrine-like houses decorated by stone carvings of
many forbidding forms gave an aura of daunting mystery. But the buoyant sounds of
children’s laughter as they made their way home after school and the bright welcoming
smiles of the villagers transformed what had seemed like a ominous ancient settlement
into a happy possibility of a good time about to be had.
Located in Bangli Regency, 700 meters above sea level, Penglipuran is surrounded by
lush rice fields and green countryside. The name penglipuran itself is derived from old
Balinese words pengeling pura, meaning a place for remembering the ancestors; an
appropriate name for a township that insists on retaining their traditional values,
including their traditional architecture and orientation where all houses are lined from
the north to the south – from the mountains to the sea. The village temple is situated on
the highest point at the top of the village, signifying comforting divine protection.
*****************
BOX 1:
East Bali: How to Get There
Flights:
Most international flights service Bali’s Denpasar Airport or Ngurah Rai International
Airport (www.baliairport.com) daily.

2. Visa:
Bali operates on a US$25, 30-day visa-on-arrival system, payable in multi-currency, but
US dollars or Indonesian rupiah are preferable. The queues in peak holiday seasons are
unbearable so use VIP Service/VOA Service (www.voabali.com) to do the dirty work for
you. For an extra US$30 on arrival, they whisk you through the crowds to your transport
of choice.
Cars:
The drive northeast from the airport to East Bali takes around an hour and a half along
the coast. Your hotel usually can arrange transfers. But if you haven’t booked a hotel or
just are just feeling adventurous, the best way to get there (and to explore East Bali) is
with a hire car. It’s also worth spending an extra US$15 a day on a driver so you can
gawk and gasp as you explore the seaside villages and countryside backwaters without
having to worry about dodging potholes and the occasional stray dogs.
Boats:
Oddly enough, there is no regular boat service to East Bali, but you can charter your own
starting from around US$500 and sailing from Sanur. Charter includes lunch, fishing and
snorkeling equipment (www.enadive.co.id).
Places of Interest:
Most places of interest are wound together by the coastal road: inland Sidemen with its
beautiful scenery and lush stepped vistas, Manggis with its boutique resorts, Tulamben,
Amed and Padangbai for divine diving and snorkeling, and Candidasa, which is a long-
established resort area offering accommodation options from as cheap as US$9 a night
to almost-unaffordable rates.
*****************
Priceless Architecture
As I meandered around and befriended more people, I started to warm up to the place
and get a sense of sweet familiarity. The residents were so accepting and their cheerful
friendliness was contagious. From them I also learned a bit about Balinese traditional
architecture. A Balinese home is the result of a complex interweaving of various
elements designed to suggest interaction of the physical world to the spirit one. It is
built considering not only economic wealth and practical social requirements of the
owners, but also caste and kinship ties with others in the neighborhood.
To begin with, Balinese compounds are surrounded by high walls and have only a single
small entrance, called the angku-angku, at the side bordering the street. Entranceways
define the threshold between inside and outside, and are viewed ambivalently by the
Balinese: on one hand they welcome visitors, while on the other hand they can allow
malign spirits to enter; hence the importance of a small entranceway as well as a

3. another smaller wall, called the aling-aling, placed immediately after the entrance to
baffle uninvited spirits that are normally only capable of traveling in straight lines. As a
further safeguard, a small shrine is often built just in front of the house facing the road.
Offering of flowers and coconut leaves are placed in it to make spirits pause and
reconsider any intention of entering.
On the northern boundary wall within the compound, a visitor is likely faced with the
family temple – actually a collection of five small shrines placed on high pedestals. These
are dedicated for worshiping the ancestors, specific Hindu gods (largely dependent on
family caste), and good ancient spirits. The bale dangin, a small pavilion near the
eastern side of the temple complex, is traditionally used for ceremonial purposes.
Further within the compound there is a number of small houses or open-sided pavilions
built on the western side around the main house (bale dauh). Bale dauh is occupied by
the current head of the family and his immediate family, while the smaller dwellings
house children and visiting relatives. Towards the south is the kitchen (pawon), which
consists of two rooms; one is open-sided for cooking and the other is a closed room to
store cooking materials. Behind the kitchen are typically a granary, livestock pens, fruit
trees, vegetable garden, a well and sanitation facilities.
Within these compounds, the architecture is normally quite plain and lacking in
significant decorative ornamentation; the size of the pavilions and the number of pillars
holding up the ceiling are often enough to indicate status. However, much effort and
expense goes towards the decoration of doors and gateways. Doors are typically
paneled and carved from jackfruit wood or teak. They are usually painted but high caste
families may also gild them with gold leaves. Gateways are also highly ornamented,
often with the Bhoma head, which is the killer and eater of demons. Needless to say,
these traditional compounds are becoming rarer even in rural areas as more and more
land is converted towards the building of high-end resorts and hotels, giving priceless
values to Penglipuran Village and its insistence on their ancient lifestyle.
*****************
BOX 2:
Penglipuran Village is open to visitors everyday from 9.30 am to 6 pm. A small entrance
fee applies.
*****************
Dreamy Beach Cottage
Driving away from the countryside towards the beach, I returned to my hotel in the
afternoon. Located on the tranquil beach of Candidasa amidst swaying palm trees, the
charming resort of Candi Beach Resort and Spa was my choice of accommodation. Set
within a coconut grove garden that gently rolls on to a beautiful private white-sand

4. beach, the resort also highlights traditional architecture utilizing local materials from
Bali and other neighboring islands. The turquoise waters of the dreamy, palm-fringed
infinity swimming pool appear to overflow into the azure sea. It is an oasis where
dreams begin.
Offering five types of room – garden room, deluxe garden bungalow, ocean room, ocean
deluxe bungalow, and the newly built ocean view pool villa – it carries the concept of a
balanced, sustainable and environmentally friendly life and is the first hotel in Candidasa
to launch the BioCoral program to help conserve coral reefs in the area. The resort is
also within close proximity to many places of interest in East Bali such as trekking trails,
traditional villages, ancient palaces, stunning beaches and diving and snorkeling sites.
Candi Beach Resort and Spa
Mendira Beach, Sengkidu
Candidasa, Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-41234
www.candibeachbali.com
*****************
BOX 3:
When You’re Sleepy in East Bali
Alila Manggis
Buitan Village, Manggis
Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-41011
www.alilahotels.com/manggis
Amankila
Manggis, Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-41333
www.amanresorts.com/amankila/home.aspx
Bamboo Paradise
Jalan Penataran Agung
Padangbai, Bali
Ph: +62-822-66304330
www.bambooparadisebali.com
Bloo Lagoon Village
Jalan Silayukti
Padangbai, Bali

5. Ph: +62-363-41211
www.bloolagoon.com
Coral View Villas
Lipah Beach, Amed
Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-23493
www.coralviewvillas.com
Discovery Candidasa Cottages & Villas
Jalan Pantai Indah 06, Candidasa
Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-41145
www.discoverycandidasa.com
Hidden Paradise Cottages
Lipah Beach, Amed
Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-23514
www.hiddenparadise-bali.com
Lotus Bungalows
Jalan Raya Candidasa
Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-41104
www.lotusbungalows.com
Mara River Safari Lodge
Jalan Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra Km. 19.8
Gianyar, Bali
Ph: +62-361-751300
www.marariversafarilodge.com
Mimpi Resort Tulamben
Kubu, Tulamben
Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-21642
www.mimpi.com
OnlYou Villas
Bunutan Village
Jalan Raya Amed, Abang
Amed, Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-23595

6. http://onlyou-bali.com
Rama Candidasa Resort and Spa
Jalan Raya Sengkidu
Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-41974
www.ramacandidasahotel.com
Rama Shinta Hotel
Jalan Raya Candidasa
Samuh Bugbug Village
KarangasemBali
Ph: +62-363-41778
www.ramashintahotel.com
Samanvaya
Banjar Tabola, Sidemen
Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-821-47103884
www.samanvaya-bali.com
Santai Hotel
Bunutan Village, Amed
Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-23487
www.santaibali.com
The Lemon House
Gang Melanting 5
Padangbai, Bali
Ph: +62-812-46371575
www.lemonhousebali.com
The Watergarden Hotel and Spa
Jalan Raya Candidasa, Bali
Ph: +62-363-41540
www.watergardenhotel.com
Villa Sasoon
Jalan Raya Candidasa
Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-41511
www.villasasoon.com

7. *****************
Ubud for Dinner
I couldn’t laze around in my room for too long, though, and only had time to freshen up,
as I was meeting some friends in Ubud for dinner. Ubud is also one of the reasons why
East Bali is attracting a new, cooler breed of visitors – the sort who in the past may have
opted for, say, a week in Kuta. As quoted in many travel books, Ubud is synonymous
with culture but also home to good restaurants, cafes and streets of shops, many of
which sell unique goods from the region’s artisans.
We were dining at Bali’s most famous duck joint, Bebek Bengil, or Dirty Duck Diner. The
whole menu here is almost entirely dedicated to the humble duck – crispy fried duck,
duck fried rice, duck in chili sauce, and so on. But their legendary specialty, bebek betutu
or smoked duck, has to be ordered 24 hours in advance.
Seated in one of their traditional bamboo huts, both my friend and I settled for the
crispy fried duck. The duck is boiled for three hours with 20 different types of spices,
then fried to crispy perfection upon order. It is served steamed rice, vegetables and two
choices of chili sauce: sambal matah (shallot, lemongrass and chili based condiment)
and sambal terasi (hot chili sauce with shrimp paste). It was simply savory. The hint of
citrus in the sambal matah, the saltiness of the shrimp paste and the heat of the chili
impeccably complimented the duck and made that incredible layering of flavors that Bali
is famous for. This wasn’t the first time I tried it but it gets me hooked more and more
every time. The restaurant opens every day from 10 am to 10 pm.
Bebek Bengil
(Dirty Duck Diner)
Jalan Hanoman
Padang Tegal
Ubud, Bali
Ph: +62-361-977675, 975489
www.bebekbengil.com
*****************
BOX 4:
Ubud’s Savory Life
Warung Ibu Oka
Tucked away in a spot opposite the former Royal Palace, Warung Ibu Oka offers Balinese
roast suckling pig (babi guling) that draws both locals and food lovers from around the
world. Open every day from 11 am to 3 pm, long queues are unavoidable as the tables
here fill up quickly. Be sure to arrive early. The roast pig is served in big succulent chunks

8. in a rattan bowl with rice, fried intestines, spicy vegetables and Ibu Oka’s secret sauce,
all for under US$5. It is arguably one of the best cracklings one will ever taste. [Jalan
Tegal Sari 2, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-361-976345]
Café Lotus
Created in 1982 as a bohemian meeting place for local artists and backpackers, the café
now has branches all over the island but none compares to its original location in Ubud,
looking out over a huge lotus pond bordered by tall flowering trees and guarded by the
Saraswati Temple that comes alive every night with enchanting dances. The menu is
eclectic ranging from traditional Balinese cuisine to tuna carpaccio or the vegetarian
favorite, lentil and shitake soup. [Jalan Raya Ubud, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-361-975660]
Naughty Nuri’s Warung and Grill
Driving along Jalan Raya Sangginan, one can already see the clouds of smoke and smell
the irresistible aroma of barbecue long before arriving at Naughty Nuri’s Warung and
Grill. A favorite expat hangout, it offers some of the best barbecued spare ribs, lamb and
pork chops. Their dirty martinis are as good as the food, gaining claims from celebrity
chef Anthony Bourdain as the best he has every drunk outside of New York. [Jalan Raya
Sangginan, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-361-977547; www.naughtynurisbali.com]
Wayan Café & Bakery
With nature abounding the eatery, Wayan Café & Bakery offers a lovely atmosphere. Set
in a garden with fountains, statues and traditional Balinese floor tables (don’t forget to
remove your shoes), the menu consists of plenty of local and western options. Try their
signature dish, Indonesian Rijstaffel, which is fragrant rice served with samplers of many
side dishes including chicken satay, chicken curry, fried shredded coconut, hard boiled
eggs and spiced green bean salad. [Monkey Forest Road, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-361-
975447; www.alamindahbali.com/cafe_wayan.htm; opens daily from 8 am to 10 pm]
Mozaic
The best place to splash out on a gourmet meal in Ubud, the stunning cuisine of Franco-
American chef Chris Salans compliments the magical atmosphere of a tropical garden.
Eat here for dinner and the garden is brilliantly candle-lit. Winning dishes include Salans’
beef tenderloin and ripe jackfruit in a vermouth and balsamic reduction, grilled yellow-
fin tuna with a kaffir lime leaf dressing, and a ripe tomme de savoie cheese from France
with black truffle honey and apricot sorbet. [Jalan Raya Sangginan, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-
361-975768; www.mozaic-bali.com]
*****************
Diving Day
The following day was a diving day. My first destination was Tulamben, a small fishing
village on the northeast coast of Bali, to dive its most popular dive site, the Wreck of the
USAT Liberty. Anchored off the coast of Lombok, the massive ship was hit by a Japanese

9. torpedo during World War II. Miraculously nobody got hurt, but the ship was badly
damaged. The American Navy planned to tow the ship to Singaraja Harbor in North Bali
but failed as the harbor was completely occupied. So the ship was intentionally stranded
on the rocky beach of Tulamben. Then in 1963, Mount Agung, the volcano that towers
over Tulamben, erupted. The eruption caused the ship to sink into the sea where it now
rests at the depth of three to 29 meters, allowing corals to grow and coat the wreckage
and turning it into a new home for an extraordinary number of marine lives.
It is a wonderland for divers of all skill levels. Although I didn’t have enough guts to
venture into the dark corridors of the wreckage, I had quite a good time being greeted
by bumped-head parrotfish, graceful batfish, large sweetlips, beautiful angelfish and
butterfly fish, patrolling napoleon wrasse, colorful fusilier and anthias, even schooling
trevallies and barracudas. Peeking under ledges and in crevices, I found scorpionfish,
lionfish and pufferfish peeking back at me as were the gobies, blennies and shrimps out
on the sand flats. This is a world-class site not to be missed!
For the second dive I headed to Amed, a long coastal strip of fishing villages with
stunning scenery, perfect for those yearning for a slow-paced relaxing holidays.
Approaching a recommended dive site by boat, Batu Dawa, I passed a pearl farming
area north of Amed and learned from my dive guide that residents of Amed do make
their livelihood from pearl farming as well as fishing, salt-making and tourism.
Descending to a depth of 30 meters, Batu Dawa is a wall covered with flamboyant hard
corals, showy fans and large sponges. A variety of reef fish went about their business,
completely ignoring my presence. And on the way up, I even had an encounter with a
patrolling white-tip reef shark and a couple of green turtles.
The last dive that afternoon was at Amed Wall where I started diving in a shallow area
right off Jemeluk Beach in a wonderful coral garden and followed a moderate current
guiding me in about 10 minutes to the wall, which drops to a depth of around 35 meters
and boasts spectacular soft corals. Nearly any possible species of animated reef fish can
be found here. At the depth of 27 meters, I arrived at a sandy field and was immediately
greeted by a large population of blue-spotted stingrays. Several white-tip and black-tip
sharks also popped in to patrol their feeding ground. Amed Wall is purely fantastic!
*****************
BOX 5:
Dive Centers
TULAMBEN
Aqua Dive Paradise

10. www.tulambendivers.com
Liberty Dive Resort
www.libertydiveresort.com
Matahari Tulamben
www.divetulamben.com
Tulamben Wreck Divers
www.tulambenwreckdivers.com
AMED
Amed Dive Center
www.ameddivecenter.com
Bali Reef Divers
www.balireefdivers.com
Baliku Dive Resort
www.amedbalidiving.com
Baruna Dive Center
www.divebali.fr
Eco Dive Bali
www.ecodivebali.com
Euro Dive Bali
www.eurodivebali.com
Jukung Dive
www.jukungdivebali.com
*****************
Green Hills & Lonely Shores
The next day I rented a motorbike and spent the afternoon cruising around Karangasem
area. The region felt like a sweet transitional spot where it was still possible to feel part
of something old and something new, all at the same time. Rolling hills, terraced paddy
fields and long stretch of nearly empty glorious beaches live harmoniously side by side.
Laidback cafés and humble stalls scatter and thrive here and there, some with well-worn
chairs but all offering fortifying meals and drinks at affordable prices.

11. My first stop was Jambul Hill where a large banyan tree grows on the top of the hill like
a crown, hence the name ‘jambul’, which means crown or crest. Situated in a plateau in
Pesaban Village, near to the the border of Karangasem Regency and Klungkung Regency,
it is an ideal place to rest and relax. Sitting at around 500 meters above sea level, the
scenery is amazing with vast rice terraces, the winding road underneath and palm trees
stretching to the sea.
Passing through Sibetan Village, I discovered small plantations of salak, one of many
indigenous fruits in Indonesia also known as snake fruits due to the reddish-brown scaly
skin that resembles a snake skin pattern. The village is ever so slowly blooming into an
agritourism site but it is yet to be fully developed. There is no organized tour to the
plantations but most hotels in the area can arrange a visit upon request. However, a
friendly chat with some of the local farmers over a cup of coffee at a small warung
landed me with a personal invitation to visit one of their plantations. At the end of the
visit I drove away with a plastic bag full of ripe salak fruits that tasted delightfully sweet.
Returning to my hotel in the late afternoon, I made a stop at Perasi Beach, around 30
minutes east from Candidasa area. Also known as White Sand Beach or Virgin Beach, it
is such a breath of fresh air from the crowded beaches in Kuta, Legian and Seminyak.
There are no hotels, villas or any other tourist accommodations in the area, only views
of Gili Biaha (Biaha Island) on the horizon and vast blue ocean with calm waters. Several
food stalls do exist selling local food, snacks and beverages for visitors, as well as a shop
renting umbrellas and sun loungers for the day. I opted to lay down in the shade of a
palm tree where I happily passed out for a while.
*****************
BOX 6:
Getting to Perasi
Perasi Beach is located 4.5 kilometers east of Candidasa or a one and a half hour drive
from Denpasar. Follow the main road of Jalan Candidasa-Bugbug to the village of Perasi
and look out for a dirt road opposite the village’s main temple that leads to beach. Signs
may display various names such as ‘White Sand Beach’, ‘Virgin Beach’, or ‘Pasir Putih’. It
is then a one kilometer drive down a bumpy track to the beach.
*****************
Temple Blessings
East Bali is also dotted with many sacred temples and romantic ancient palaces. One
that I visited the next morning was Ulun Subak Temple in Bukit Jati, Bangli Regency. The
temple is believed to be a symbol of fertility and is still actively used by farmers in the
surrounding areas to pray for abundant harvests. Compared to other temples in Bali, its

12. appearance is not particularly outstanding but as I paid a close attention to the natural
sublimity of decay along its walls, it evokes a dreamy hazy past, forcing a sense of peace
that penetrated deep into my heart.
Also in Bangli, Kehen Temple is a prettier temple. Set on a wooded hillside in Cempaga
Village, about two kilometers north of Bangli’s town center, it is one of Bali’s finest and
most impressive temples sporting eight terraces and a huge 700 year-old banyan tree. It
was built as the main temple for the Bangli Kingdom during the reign of Sri Bhatara Guru
Adikunti Ketana in the 11th century. Its name is derived from the Balinese word ‘keren’,
meaning flame, after the God of Fire who protects the temple.
I slowly climbed the 38 stairs leading to the exquisitely adorned entrance of the temple.
Both sides of the stairs are guarded by statues of wayang figures taken from popular
Ramayana stories. Approaching the three terraced main courtyard, I finally saw the
celebrated banyan tree where my eyes immediately focused on a quaint monk’s cell
built high up in its branches. An image played in my mind: an old Hindu monk quietly
meditating in it while mottled sunlight flows through the uneven spaces between the
branches. That would be a sight to behold.
In Karangasem, both Gede Karangasem Palace and Agung Kanginan Palace made my
list of memorable old buildings in East Bali. Both are historically important as they were
once residences of the kings of Karangasem Kingdom, one of the nine kingdoms in Bali.
Gede Karangasem is the largest of the five palaces in Amalpura, the ancient capital of
the kingdom. Interestingly, it is inspired by Chinese architecture that most of the palace
are decorated with ornaments such as images of Barongsai (Chinese traditional lion
dance) and other Chinese bas-relief patterns. As the emblem of the kingdom’s pride,
every corner is designed to make the maximum impression. I couldn’t escape the feeling
that I was touring a back lot, the product of someone’s spectacularly detailed illusion.
Then, there is also the Kertha Gosa in the city of Klungkung, a beautiful heritage of
traditional Balinese architecture formerly used as the royal court. Founded in the 18th
century, the buildings have been renovated after an earthquake in 1971 that destroyed
most of them. Kertha Gosa’s ultimate expression of a chic utopia are the ceilings, which
are fully decorated by ghastly paintings, done on asbestos sheeting, to persuade
violators not to repeat the offense. My favorite, though, is the floating hut or bale
kambang on the lotus-filled water pond. Its original function was as a place to welcome
VIP guests, but today it is best for daydreaming amongst the sea of lovely lotus flowers. I
spent a happy afternoon touring the complex, which is believed to be laid out in the
form of a mandala with courtyards, gardens, pavilions and moats. Before I left, I also
visited the Semaraja Museum and examined its collection of songket (silver- or gold-
threaded cloth), a moving display of the 1908 Puputan war and some interesting old
photos of the royal court.
*****************

13. BOX 7:
Temples: Best of the Best
Besakih Temple
Perched 1,000 meters above sea level on the southwestern slopes of Mount Agung,
Besakih is the biggest and holiest temple in Bali, and has been known as Bali’s ‘Mother
Temple’ for over 1,000 years. Comprising at least 86 temples, it is an artistic complex
surrounded by breathtaking panorama of rice paddies, green hills, towering mountains
and idyllic streams. Its location on Mount Agung gives it a mystical quality. Sarongs and
sashes, which must be worn to enter the complex, are available for rent. You can also
purchase them at one of the many stalls outside the temple. Women on their periods
are not allowed to enter.
Soekasada Ujung Gardens
A gorgeous water palace for the kings, Soekasada Ujung Gardens, also known as Taman
Ujung, is situated in Tumbu Village, Karangasem. In the old days, the spacious gardens
echoed with the laughter of the king’s wives and children as they relaxed, dipping their
feet in the ponds. Today, the gardens are a beauty to capture in photographs or to take
long walks while enjoying the views of shimmering blue ocean, lush green forest and, of
course, the mighty Mount Agung.
Tirtagangga
Another of the world’s most romantic water palaces is Tirtagangga, which literally
means water from the Ganges. Gushing springs flowing from beneath an ancient banyan
tree filling the gardens with soothing pools that grace this water palace. Located in
Amalpura, the prominent 11 tiered lotus fountain has become the symbol for
Tirtagangga since its creation by the late king of Karangasem in 1948. After a visit to the
Versailles in France, the king was inspired to build his second water palace in the
mountains overlooking his kingdom. The king then named it after the holy river Ganges
in India. It is believed that if one bathes in the waters of Tirtagangga on a full moon,
he/she will be blessed with lasting youth.
Goa Lawah
Goa Lawah or Bat Cave Temple is one of favorite places of interest in Bali, located in the
countryside of Pasinggahan, Klungkung. The temple is built in a cave where thousands of
tail bats reside. The sounds of bats occasionally flapping its wings give an eerie quality to
the temple. But the reality is less lethal. Goa Lawah is actually a beautiful sacred temple
surrounded by flowering trees with the views of blue ocean and Nusa Penida Island as a
magnificent backdrop.
*****************

14. Artsy East Bali
Right across Kertha Gosa complex is a traditional market, Kertha Gosa Market that
opens from 6 am to 6 pm. I went there to take some pictures with no intention of
buying. But I soon realized this isn’t a traditional market selling vegetables and fruits.
Instead, the three-story building specializes in songket. Hand-woven in silk or cotton by
independent weavers from the villages of Sidemen and Gelgel, Klungkung, the fabric is
intricately patterned with gold or silver threads creating glorious glittering effects. The
prices are quite friendly, starting from as little as Rp100,000. I couldn’t help marveling at
them. How could I not have a change of intention?
By then it was too late to dispel the artistic ghosts that have trailed Bali for hundreds of
years. The next day I just had to make may way to the village of Singapadu in Gianyar,
this time for gold jewelries. Art shops lined the main street of Singapadu, one couldn’t
ask for a more atmospheric place to watch the goldsmiths at work or to simply window-
shop. I ended up at Wirata Jewelry, a shop belonging to a talented goldsmith I Wayan
Wirata since 1974. Wirata’s family has been dedicated to this art for generations. Wirata
learned to carve and make gold jewelries from his father who focused in a particular
style of carving locally known as sri bunga. Later on, he apprenticed with his uncle who
taught him to incorporate traditional images. A cousin then taught him modern patterns
as well. Handmade with impeccable precision, his products are therefore testaments to
all that he has learned as well as his own compulsions of imagination. A black oval ring
with a simple yet beautiful carving of gold flower, a turtle brooch and a colorful pendant
are just a few of the hundreds of jewelries the shop produces every month. But they
were all I could afford. [Wirata Jewelry; Banjar Seseh, Singapadu, Sukawati, Gianyar,
Bali; Ph: +62-361-298365; opens every day from 8.30 am to 5 pm]
Singapadu is also renowned for its silver. Not as famous as its neighboring village of
Celuk, but the quality of Singapadu’s silver is just as respectable. As I strolled into Gala
Silver, the owner of the shop, Tjakra, took me to a room in the backside of the gallery
where a number of silversmiths were busy melting silver, mixing it with copper to make
it harder, and shaping them into striking pendants, necklaces, bracelets, rings, brooches
and earrings. Prices vary depending on their intricacies but are still affordable that I had
to make some room in my bag for them. [Gala Silver; Banjar Seseh, Singapadu,
Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali; Ph: +62-361-295647; opens every day from 7 am to 6 pm]
*****************
BOX 8:
Notable Arts & Crafts
Wood Carving of Mas Village
Mas Village in Ubud has been identified as an artistic countryside focusing in the arts of
wood carving. Promoting the synergy between humanism and naturalism, it is a highly

15. developed form of craftsmanship and artistry in Bali. The products are recognized both
nationally and internationally. A recommended place to shop is Bali Wood Carver, which
sells a large variety of carvings with prices starting from only Rp30,000 to hundreds of
millions of rupiah. [Bali Wood Carver; Mas Village, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-361-975250]
Wayang Paintings of Kamasan
Rama and Shinta flying above the clouds or the legend of Sutasoma are two of the many
inspirations for the classical paintings in Kamasan Village where the art of painting on
true canvas started in the 16th century. The character of the paintings is flat and one-
dimensional, and does not introduce the concept of contours or perspective of light. But
they are rich in colors and meticulous patterns, making them popular as gifts for the
kings of the past as well as souvenirs for today’s art fanatics. [Dogol Classical Wayang
Kamasan; Banjar Sangging, Klungkung, Bali; Ph: +62-366-24794, +62-81338322922]
Gamelan of Tihingan
Tucked away in the foothills of Mount Agung, in the village of Tihingan, is some ‘heavy
metal magic’. The ancient village is home to the masters of magically charged metal, the
gamelan crafters. It is a fascinating place to visit and witness this archaic art of bronze
craftsmanship. Tihingan, with its characteristic gamelan-flavored street names – Jalan
Gong Gede, Gang Saron, Gang Curing – is a sleepy place consisting of only one main
road and an intersection centered upon a monstrous banyan tree. The majority of the
small family homes lining the main road are either foundries or workshops selling
gamelan instruments and accessories. It’s also enlightening to watch the smiths tuning
the keys of the gamelan as they still rely on the sharpness of their ears instead of
modern tuning technology. [Gong Yudha; Jalan Gong Gede 4, Tihingan Village,
Klungkung, Bali; Ph: +62-366-223223]
Grinsing Woven Cloth & Lontar Painting
While other fabrics gradually lose colors, grinsing’s colors intensify as it ages, increasing
its value. The best place to witness the weaving of grinsing cloth and buy the products is
in Tenganan Village, the home of the Bali Aga people who consider themselves as the
indigenous people of Bali. A piece of grinsing is priced from Rp1,000,000 for a small one
(around 1.5 meters long and 28 centimeters wide) and between Rp5,000,000 to over
Rp30,000,000 for larger ones, depending on the complexity of the motifs and the age.
The village is also famous for its paintings painted on the unusual canvas made of palm
leaves, as well as woven crafts made from ata tree (a type of ferns). [Tenganan Bali Aga
Village, Pegerinsingan, Manggis, Karangasem, Bali]
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BOX 9:
Recommended Eateries

16. AMED
Amed Café
Amed Village, Abang
Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-363-23473
www.amedcafe.com
CANDIDASA
Vincent’s Restaurant
Jalan Raya Candidasa, Bali
Ph: +62-363-41368
www.vincentsbali.com
KARANGASEM
Puri Boga Restaurant
Jalan Raya Besakih, Jambul Hill
Rendang, Karangasem, Bali
Ph: +62-366-264020
KLUNGKUNG
Sate Ikan Merta Sari
Jalan Timbul, Pesinggahan
Dawan, Klungkung, Bali
Ph: +62-366-23985
*****************
My visit to East Bali started in a village and thus – I felt – must end in a village. Venturing
five kilometers north of Ubud, I went to Kokokan Village. It was a Sunday at sunset and
the village was still alive with cheerful chatters and laughter of the residents. But the
main attraction here is a different type of ‘residents’. Kokokan Village is the habitat of
thousands of kokokan birds (a type of crane that lives in the trees) and in the afternoon
they return to their nests, giving a spectacular performance for visitors as they fly home.
Birdsongs rose up, mixed with the occasional scraping whine of bugs. And in an instant,
as they perch in their nests ready to call it the day, the green trees turned magnificently
white. The sight was the very definition of enchantment.
Dark clouds gathered ahead as I turned back. But I was too enchanted to be distraught.
East Bali is not magically real but I think it is really magical.

17. *****************
BOX 10:
Family Fun in East Bali at Bali Safari and Marine Park
Bringing your family to East Bali means a visit to Bali Safari and Marine Park should be
on your itinerary. It is home of hundreds of animals representing over 60 species,
including some endangered ones such as komodo dragons and orangutans. Family fun
activities include journeying on an elephant’s back, encounter with your favorite animals
and the wildest fine dining experience while surrounded by lions. As part of Indonesia
Safari Parks, it is at the frontline of wildlife conservation in Indonesia. Bali Safari and
Marine Park is actively involved in ensuring the future survival and wellbeing of many
Indonesian animal species through engaging education and conservation programs.
Bali Safari and Marine Park
Jalan Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra Km. 19.8
Gianyar, Bali
Ph: +62-361-950000
Opens daily: 9 am - 5 pm
www.balisafarimarinepark.com
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