1. August 2013
INSIDE - 30 pages (max 6000 words)
East Kalimantan
Outstanding Borneo Adventure
Text: Rini Sucahyo, Photos: Doc. TAMASYA, The BOS Foundation, Berau Regency
Government
A land of swirling mega rivers in the shadow of lush canopy, home of the orangutans,
monkeys, gigantic snakes and crocodiles. I must admit that Borneo no longer fits my
original imagination of majestic rainforest. But majestic it still is. Let’s start in the east.
Over the past two years, I have developed a close relationship with East Borneo, or East
Kalimantan as the Indonesians like to call it. In addition to my work in travel journalism, I
have also contributed a little bit of my expertise in communications to a local NGO, the
Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation (BOS Foundation). With them I have traveled to
some of the remotest corners of East Kalimantan, witnessing many greatness but also
experiencing many heartbreaks. This is my honest attempt to shed a little light on East
Kalimantan not only in the hope that many of you readers will want to visit but also so
that you will visit it with a deeper understanding and in a brand new attitude.
Borneo’s Commercial Center
The sun was fierce when I landed in Balikpapan, the commercial center of Borneo on
the eastern coast of the island and a region rich with natural resources such as timber,
coal and petroleum. Forest was nowhere to be seen. Instead, I was welcomed by the all-
too-familiar air of an ultra modern metropolitan and its concrete jungle.
Balikpapan is very well developed. The seaport city serves as headquarters for many
international timber, palm oil, petroleum and mining companies as well as their related
supporting industries. It has towering office buildings, great malls, restaurants, and an
international airport connecting all major cities in Indonesia and Southeast Asia. It is just
like Jakarta in a somewhat smaller scale. I was a bit discouraged. At that time, a visit to
East Kalimantan seemed like a bad idea.
Other than stopping at a supermarket for a quick groceries shopping, I did not have to
linger too long in Balikpapan, thank goodness. I was back in the BOS Foundation’s car
that took me in an-hour northward inland ride through the city outskirt, passing several
coalmines and humble suburbs, to a small town of Samboja.
*****************
BOX 1:

2. Hotels in Balikpapan
Aston Balikpapan Hotel & Residence
Grand Sudirman Balikpapan
Jalan Jendral Sudirman 7
Ph: +62-542-733999
www.astonbalikpapan.com
Hakaya Plaza Hotel
Jalan Marsma Iswahyudi
Sepinggan International Airport
Ph: +62-542-7578888
www.hakayaplazahotel
Le Grandeur Balikpapan
Jalan Jendral Sudirman
Ph: +62-542-420155
www.legrandeurhotels.com
Novotel Balikpapan
Jalan Brigjen Ery Suparjan 2
Ph: +62-542-820820
www.accorhotels.com
*****************
A Forest in the City
The asphalt road was smooth and quite large. I was getting sleepy and nearly dozed off.
But the driver suddenly made a left turn. I almost missed the big wooden sign at the
entrance that reads “Yayasan Penyelamatan Orangutan Borneo” – the Indonesian name
for the BOS Foundation. “We’re here,” said Eman, the driver. “Welcome to Samboja
Lestari.” Just as sudden, the city disappeared. The air felt cooler and a lot fresher. Only
an hour or around 38 kilometers from the madness of Balikpapan, I was in a forest!
But a story that followed about how this little forest came to be was even more amazing
than finding its existence. Over two decades ago in 1991, working together with the
local forestry office the BOS Foundation established its first orangutan reintroduction
program in Samboja. It was then called Wanariset. Their main activities were to rescue
orangutans dislocated from their forest home due to various human distractions to their
habitat and rehabilitate them in the attempt to reintroduce them back into the forest
once they were ready.
All too quickly, the limited space of Wanariset got filled up with orphaned orangutans.
They needed a bigger place. So they started to acquire little pieces of lands from various

3. owners, hectare by hectare, until finally they had in total around 1,700 hectares. But
this land was desolate and severely damaged and had nothing on it but wild grass and
reeds. Fortunately for these iconic orangutans, sympathy and much-needed support
also came quickly from many organizations and individuals around the globe. They
started planting the land with endemic trees, especially the ones that would provide
natural food for the orangutans. By 2006, a small and very young forest began to
flourish and Wanariset was relocated to this new piece of land and renamed “Samboja
Lestari”.
Today, the once barren and infertile land has transformed into a healthy beautiful forest
and a sanctuary for around 230 orangutans in rehabilitation as well as 50 sun bears with
the support of hundreds of highly devoted staff and experts in primatology, biodiversity,
ecology, forest rehabilitation, agroforestry, community empowerment, communication,
education and orangutan healthcare. I felt so small and at the same time was proud to
be one of them, contributing what I could to this worthy cause.
*****************
BOX 2:
The Orangutans Need You!
There are many ways to get involved with orangutan conservation and reintroduction
efforts. Your generosity – big or small – goes a long way in ensuring the future survival
for orangutans and their habitat. Keep the future safe now and for generations to come.
For more information on how you can help, contact:
The Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation
Jalan Papandayan 10, Bogor 16151, West Java
Ph: +62-251-8314468, 8314469
www.orangutan.or.id
*****************
A Home in the Forest
While an orangutan rehabilitation center should not be mistakenly viewed as a breeding
ground, or a zoo, Samboja Lestari does open its doors to some of its facilities for public
as I was about to find out during my short stay at the Samboja Lodge. Samboja Lodge is
a venture of the BOS Foundation. Here, for the first time, visitors are able to gain first
hand knowledge on what is required to rebuild a forest and protect its wildlife,
especially the Bornean orangutans.
Uniquely designed based on local architecture, all interior and exterior walls are made
of recycled materials. The cosmetic touches are traditional Kalimantan handicrafts and

4. are produced by both local and Dayak communities around the area. Surrounded by
lush forest of indigenous tree species, flowers and fruiting trees, each room has its own
patio or balcony in which to enjoy the forest. A glass door can fold open allowing guests
to choose between having a barrier to nature or being completely open to it. Best of all,
comfort is not neglected nor compromised. I simply loved it here!
Although most of my visit was mainly filled with work, I had the privilege to experience
what a typical planned visitor activity would consist of. The day began at 7.30 AM sharp.
The guide, provided by Samboja Lodge, led me on a two-kilometer Nature Trail through
this remarkable regenerating forest of Samboja Lestari. Armed with my camera, there
were many wildlife encounters – birds, lizards, insects, and even quick sightings of deer
and mouse deer. The guide told me that no one knows where these animals came from,
considering that the land used to be bare and empty. But as the trees started to grow,
rebuilding a complete forest ecosystem, one by one animals strangely returned. He also
said that there have even been sightings of wild boars and large pythons!
The Orangutan Islands
Next, we visited the Orangutan Islands. Just a few minutes walk from Samboja Lodge,
these islands were man-made and intended for orangutans that cannot be released due
to handicaps or other factors preventing their safe return to their natural forest habitat.
At certain times every day, workers bring over all kinds of fruits, vegetables and leafy
branches to feed them. And I arrived on time to witness it!
Although there is a strict “No Contact for Visitors” regulation, upon request guests can
work with the BOS Foundation’s staff to help in making new behavioral enrichment
devices for the orangutans, preparing their food and even taking observational data.
The islands also erode quickly and are constantly in need of repair. Visitors are welcome
to help out with that, too. Simply contact the Front Desk of Samboja Lodge for more
information and assistance.
Visiting Winnie the Pooh
Later that afternoon, the Sun Bear Sanctuary was another highlight of my visit. This
honey-eating bear with a bright yellow or orange crescent-shaped patch on its breasts is
unique of tropical forests throughout Southeast Asia and its population has declined
dramatically due to deforestation. While trying to stay true to its orangutan
conservation cause, the BOS Foundation soon realized that these bears were just as
victimized as the orangutans and something had to done about it. So they started a sun
bear compound at Samboja Lestari that now has become known as one of the world’s
largest sun bear projects.
It was like meeting Winnie the Pooh. Their fur is jet-black, short and sleek with two
whirls on the shoulders. They were busy eating melons, papayas and other fruits, and
constantly searching the woods for honey. Some were socializing, rolling around in
grassy ground or cooling off in provided ponds. When they stood up, the golden patch

5. on their breast was especially visible like a big sun around their necks; hence the name
sun bear. I felt like a six year-old observing them excitedly from the provided platform,
grinning from ear to ear. They were so adorable! Just like at the Orangutan Islands,
visitors here can also help out in the many daily activities such as creating behavior
enrichment devices, food preparation and feeding.
There are many other fun yet educational activities offered by Samboja Lodge, including
tree planting, composting and several optional tour packages such as a boat ride along
the Black River, a visit to the protected forest of Wain River, and a canopy walk at the
forest park of Bangkirai Hill. They also offer attractive meeting packages. All this in just
an hour from Balikpapan! East Kalimantan wasn’t such a bad idea after all.
I had a great time at Samboja Lestari and Samboja Lodge. My only critique was that the
guide appeared too shy and reluctant to say much. I had to persuade him a bit with a lot
of questions in order to get him to open up and tell tales about the many things we saw.
Perhaps a professional tour guide training would do him good.
Samboja Lodge
Jalan Balikpapan Handil Km. 44
Samboja, Kutai Kartanegara
East Kalimantan 75273
Ph: +62-82151333733, +62-85754088872
Email: sambojalodge@orangutan.or.id
*****************
BOX 3:
Samboja Lodge 2013 Pricelist*
• Standard Room
Comfortable room with two big single beds, AC, cold water shower only.
Single occupancy: Rp1,140,000 per person per night
Shared: Rp855,000 per person per night
• Queen Suite Room
Suite with a double bed and a sitting area, AC, hot and cold water shower.
Single occupancy: Rp1,330,000 per person per night
Shared: Rp1,045,000 per person per night
• King Suite Room
Large VIP suite with a four-poster bed and panoramic view of Samboja Lestari, AC,
bathtub, hot and cold water shower.
Single occupancy: Rp1,805,000 per person per night

6. Shared: Rp1,520,000 per person per night
∗ All prices include three meals a day (B, L, D), a welcome drink, tea and coffee, tour
programs to Orangutan Islands, Sun Bear Sanctuary and other sites of interests at
Samboja Lestari, and a personal guide.
∗ All prices are subject to 10% government tax and 5% service tax.
∗ Airport transfer can be arranged at Rp350,000 (per car for 4 people) each way.
*****************
Heartbreaks Along the Way
Since then I have traveled to other places in East Kalimantan doing various work for the
BOS Foundation, including the Foundation’s extremely remote but incredibly untouched
and pristine primary rainforest, the Kehje Sewen Forest. Unfortunately, I can’t say much
about this magnificent forest because it is, for now, only dedicated for the purpose of
releasing both rescued and rehabilitated orangutans and consequently is not yet open
for public. The company established by the Foundation to manage the concession, PT.
Restorasi Habitat Orangutan Indonesia, does have a plan for ecotourism but it is still in a
distant future. I, for one, am eagerly waiting for that to realize.
However, on the many trips to Kehje Sewen, I came face to face with the harsh reality of
deforestation. Each trip usually takes at least two whole days one way with an overnight
stay in a tiny sub-regional town of Muara Wahau. Almost half of the way, for hours at a
time in some parts, I was presented not with a view of the grand forests of Borneo but
with thousands of hectares of oil palm plantations. And every time, no matter how
many times I have gone through that route, my heart breaks over and over again.
It was a wake up call, a hard slap on the face, forcing me to take a long look at my own
lifestyle. Am I also an actor of deforestation? What have I greedily required so bad as a
human that has demolished the lives of so many innocent creatures, destroyed so much
fertility, and devastated so much natural wealth? Palm oil plantations provide jobs; that
is undisputed. Social schemes offered by these plantations look responsible and very
seductive, even touching. But in reality most of these schemes do not benefit the people
at all but rather give birth to new conflicts. Communities have to constantly deal with
land ownership conflicts, cultural clashes, significant deficit of good quality freshwater,
natural disasters such as landslides, draught and floods, and various serious health risks.
Weak legal protection further aggravates the situation.
Needless to say I have made drastic adjustment to my lifestyle since then, which I won’t
go into details. However, the experience has also made me even more determined than
ever to contribute what I can to the preservation of rainforests and travel as much as
possible to record the last remaining natural and cultural treasures of East Kalimantan,
starting in the province’s only national park, the Kutai National Park.

7. Pristine Ironwood Forest
With the promise of exotic wildlife and superb rainforest, the Kutai National Park does
offer a different world. Covering 198,629 hectares, this vast lowland forest is dominated
by mixed species of tropical dipterocarpaceae, ironwood and mangroves. In fact, it is
known as the largest relatively pristine ironwood forest in Indonesia. It also functions as
one of the last remaining natural habitats for the endangered Bornean orangutans as
well as other wildlife including hornbills, proboscis monkeys, gibbons, antelopes, sun
bears, deer and crocodiles.
The Park Authority does not offer tourism packages so I had to look for a private travel
operator that provides a jungle trekking package into the park. Luckily, several operators
do exist in Balikpapan and Samarinda.
One of the most well known part of Kutai National Park is best accessed through the city
of Bontang, around four hours from Samarinda, the capital city of East Kalimantan. The
entrance can be reached in an hour by car from Bontang on the main road to Sangatta.
This part of the Park is called the Sangkima Forest that features gigantic primary forest
trees aged hundreds of years including the famous giant – the biggest ironwood tree in
the world – that has aged more than 1,000 years old with a diameter of 2.47 meters.
I got down to business and started trekking through the thick forest on the 800-meter
boardwalk and on the canopy bridge. I also visited the Prevab (or Kamp Kakap), which
can be reached from Papa Charlie Crossing in East Kutai or from Bajo Village in Sangatta.
It is an orangutan research center that has studied wild orangutans in the Park for more
than 25 years. Spotting them, however, was not easy. Wild orangutans naturally avoid
humans. Visitors are urged to spend two to three days in Prevab, trekking everyday and
patiently waiting for their appearance. Only by sheer luck that I caught a glimpse of two
orangutans eating fruits in the canopy. I’m floored, delightedly, by all of the Park’s
wildlife scene and the unexpected encounters with the men of the jungle.
*****************
BOX 4:
Borneo Adventures
• Borneo Tour Guide
Jalan Siaga 28/58
Balikpapan, East Kalimantan
www.borneotourguide.com
• De’Gigant Tours
Jalan Martadinata Raudah 1/21
Samarinda, East Kalimantan

8. www.borneotourgigant.com
• OrangHutanTours.com
www.oranghutantours.com
*****************
The City of Immigrants
Back in Samarinda, I decided to explore more of the city. While it still has some traces of
a ‘Third World’ slapdash structures and generic sprawl, it is a more topographically
impressive city than it often mentioned, with a huge river running through it and peaks
and ridges of hills all around it.
Samarinda was ‘born’ in early 1668 with the waves of migration of the Bugis-Bajo tribes
from South Sulawesi. A couple of months before that, the Gowa Kingdom in South
Sulawesi was defeated and taken over by the Dutch, an event marked by the signing of
the “Bongaya Treaty” on November 18, 1667. But not all of the Bugis-Bajo communities
surrendered to the rule of the Dutch. Some of the loyal followers of Sultan Hasanuddin,
the king of Gowa, chose to escape to other islands in Indonesia such as Java, Sumatra
and even Sabah and Selangor in Malaysia.
On January 21, 1668 some of these Bugis-Bajo tribes decided to anchor their boats on
the eastern part of Kalimantan, which at that time was a territory of the Kutai Kingdom.
They were welcomed by the king of Kutai and permitted to stay on one condition: they
had to be ready to fight and help defend the kingdom against attacks from enemies.
Once they expressed their willingness to meet this requirement, these immigrants were
given a land to rebuild their lives in an area called Kampung Melantai.
But many of them did not like this area and preferred to in Muara Karang Semumus on
the banks of the Mahakam River, one of the longest rivers in Indonesia. Surrounded by
the mountains of Selili, the river waters in Muara Karang Semumus are often affected by
vortexes or spinning underwater currents, which sometimes thwarted shipping activities
along the river. But the area was great for fishing, trade and agriculture.
More importantly, the Bugis-Bajo people found their freedom and independent living in
this new hometown. They built their houses at the same height, both the houses on the
water as well as the ones on land, giving birth to the name ‘sama rendah’, which loosely
means the same height. The name later became Samarinda as we know it today. Until
now, January 21 is celebrated as the birthday of Samarinda.
*****************
BOX 5:

9. Samarinda & Mulawarman University Botanical Garden
Only five kilometers from the city center on the main road connecting Samarinda and
Bontang, this botanical garden boasts a small forest of agarwood, ironwood and meranti
and a zoo with a collection of birds, fish, mammals and primates. The zoo’s residents
include hornbills, sun bears, proboscis monkeys, orangutans, boars and anteaters. The
garden is open every day from 8 AM to 4 PM, except on Fridays.
*****************
Shopping for Sarong
Samarinda is mostly known for its sarong. The checkered sarong is typically dominated
by five colors – blue, red, white, black and purple – and woven manually by local women
using a traditional weaving equipment called ‘gedokan’. But as I sat and watched
Zubaidah, a weaver in Baka Village, painstakingly weaved a piece of sarong, I was
astounded to learn that the craftsmanship is not of Kalimantan’s origin. Again, it was the
Bugis-Bajo people who brought and popularized this intricate artistry in Samarinda.
With time however, as the new settlers got more adapted to their new land and started
to mix and mingle with various indigenous Dayak communities around the area, their
sarong artistry also evolved. They began to use silk and gold threads, and incorporate
emblematic Dayak patterns on the sarongs. Today, they also produce scarves and other
items as well.
Zubaidah explained that a checkered sarong usually takes one to two days to make. But
a Dayak-patterned sarong takes longer, around four to seven days per piece. The prices
are relatively cheap, around Rp175,000 for a cotton checkered sarong and Rp350,000
for a Dayak sarong. The price is considerably more expensive for a silk sarong, starting at
Rp1,000,000 depending on size and motives. As a big fan of time-honored fabrics, I of
course spent quite a bit particularly on the Dayak sarongs and scarves because I
personally think the motives are more mystical, ethnic and chic at the same time. A
mistake that I realized a little too late as the place I visited the next day offered an even
more mystical pieces of fabrics!
*****************
BOX 6:
Hotels in Samarinda
Aston Samarinda Hotel & Convention Center
Jalan Pangeran Hidayatullah
Ph: +62-541-732600
www.astonsamarinda.com

10. Bumi Senyiur Hotel
Jalan Pangeran Diponegoro
Ph: +62-541-741443
www.senyiurhotels.com
Mesra Business & Resort Hotel
Jalan Pahlawan 1
Ph: +62-541-732772
www.hotelmesra.com
Swiss-Belhotel Borneo Samarinda
Jalan Mulawarman 6
Ph: +62-541-200888
www.swiss-belhotel.com
*****************
The Last Stop of the Dayak Kenyah
The following day, I met a friend from Jakarta who just returned to Samarinda from a
caving expedition. Intrigued by her caving adventure and the amazing shots she had on
her camera, I ended up venturing the city, accompanying her on a souvenir hunt while
fishing for a caving story. The most popular place to shop for anything Borneo is actually
in Balikpapan, at a place called Kebun Sayur. Kebun Sayur means vegetable garden and
to this day I have no clue as to why it sells various mementos from Kalimantan instead
of vegetables. Wouldn’t it be easier to shop at Kebun Sayur, I asked her, since she would
have to go to Balikpapan anyway to catch a flight home to Jakarta. But this particular
friend of mine is not into anything popular. “Kebun Sayur is too mainstream,” she said.
“I’d rather shop at Pampang.”
Located 20 kilometers north of Samarinda, Pampang is a cultural village inhabited by
mostly Dayak Kenyah tribe. These nomadic dwellers of the forest were forced to migrate
when most of their forest was cleared between 1969 to 1973. I had another heartbreak
learning that the victims of deforestation include humans, too. After a long journey from
the Apo Kayan region in the north (now Bulungan Regency), Pampang was their last stop
and they decided to settle there.
While many of the Dayak’s ancient wisdoms have washed away with time and with the
disappearance of their ancestral forests, the residents of Pampang still strive to preserve
most of their old ways, especially on Sundays and during certain events. Every Sunday,
they go about their normal Sunday activities such as going to church, visiting families
and friends, and hanging out, but in their traditional costumes. They also open the
lamin – a traditional Dayak long house – for public where children and young people
perform Dayak dances starting at 2 PM. These cultural attractions usually last for an

11. hour but can be extended when there are a lot of visitors.
My friend, however, stayed to true to her course and immediately looked for souvenirs
at the local shops. The variety was simply astonishing but I had spent most of my money
buying sarongs yesterday. I could only observed with envy as my friend bought beaded
necklaces, an ornate purse, mandau – a Dayak machete, a traditional backpack called
belayat, and delicate fabrics made of the wood fibers.
The fabric caught most of my attention. A form of artistry of the Dayak Banuaq tribe, it
uses the fibers of a tree locally known as the Doyo tree. The fibers are crushed, twisted
and transformed into strands of yarn and knitted into a beautiful piece of textile.
Nowadays the Doyo fibers are often mixed with pineapple fibers and other materials for
a faster turnover. Nevertheless it was the most unique and most ‘Borneo’ item I had
come across so far. Quickly recalculating my remaining travel funds, I finally bought a
piece anyway. I had to.
*****************
BOX 7:
Dayak Kenyah Dances
• Nyelama Sakai
Performed to welcome honorary guests.
• Pamong Tawai
Symbolizing one heart, one word, and one goal of the Dayak Kenyah people.
• Ajai
Performed by young men, it portrays the great preparation before a war.
• Topeng
A mystical mask dance representing various characters of humans and spirits.
*****************
BOX 8:
Photographing the Dayaks
Prepare extra funds to take snapshots of the Dayak people in Pampang! In addition to a
small entrance fee, they also charge for every photograph you take of them, usually

12. around Rp15,000 to Rp25,000. Don’t be too quick to judge their commercialism. After
all that small ‘gift’ will help them preserve their truly amazing culture. Be generous.
*****************
In the Gut of the Karst
Back at the hotel, that night my friend finally told the tales of her caving adventures in
details. It was quite an extraordinary journey, one that needs true adventurer blood to
take on as these multifaceted caves are East Kalimantan’s best kept secret. Deep in the
gut of remote forested karst mountains almost at the easternmost tip of Borneo, it took
her three days to reach the Sangkulirang Caves, with one night stay at a sleepy village of
Pangadan, around seven hours from Samarinda by car, and another overnight at a tiny
deer hunter’s hut in a dense forest after a 31-kilometer journey on foot from Pangadan.
She then had to endure another long walk the next day before finally reaching a shady
and comfortable plain at the mouth of Ambulabung Cave. Part of the Baay River flows
through the cave’s mouth so getting wet was inevitable. Luckily, there was a provided
bamboo raft to put all of the team’s dry bags in, making it easier to move and thrust
through the water until they reached a large hollow chamber of more than 1,000 m2
.
The ground was sandy and the sky was clearly visible, indicating that the chamber
provides another direct entrance – a vertical one – into the cave. They also found many
mysterious tunnels on the cave’s slippery walls leading to unknown places, making up
an interlocked network of alleyways and indicating that Ambulabung Cave is not a single
cave but a complex structure of interconnecting caves. In fact, one of tunnels that they
traced eventually led them to another popular cave in the area, Embun Cave.
For the next few days, she and her team explored as many caves as possible, including
Bejo, Kedulang, Kecabe, Mapala, Juned, Terusan Pendek and Liang Mato. “Juned Cave
was especially striking,” she said. “It is a giant cave with a fossil stream running through
it, an ankle-deep desert and huge flowstones adorning the ceilings. It was mesmerizing.”
Sangkulirang is indeed a thrilling mystery waiting to be further exposed. Unknown to
many, these intricate caves with priceless environmental value are simply sensational.
*****************
BOX 9:
Sangkulirang By Land or Water
• By land:
Hire a car in Samarinda (with a driver and an experienced guide) and travel to
Sangkulirang via Sangatta.

13. • By water:
With an experienced guide, charter a boat in Samarinda and embark on a stunning
2-day river cruise to Sangkulirang.
For more information, contact:
• East Kalimantan Tourism Office
Jalan Jendral Sudirman 22
Samarinda, East Kalimantan
Ph: +62-541-736850, 747241
• Trans Borneo Adventure Tours & Travel
Jalan Jendral Sudirman 21
Balikpapan, East Kalimantan
Ph: +62-541-762671
www.borneo-indonesia.com
*****************
Visiting An Ancient Capital
Upriver on the Mahakam lies what was once the ancient capital of the Kutai Kartanegara
Kingdom, Tenggarong. Today, Kutai Kartanegara is a thriving regency in East Kalimantan
and Tenggarong still serves as its capital. Functioning as a mirror into the past, the Royal
Palace of Kutai Kartanegara and the adjacent Museum Mulawarman store magnificent
historical evidence of the two great empires that had ruled the area, Kutai Mertadipura
and of course, Kutai Kartanegara. Kutai Mertadipura was the oldest Hindu Kingdom in
Indonesia, led by King Mulawarman back in the 5th
century. And Kutai Kartanegara is an
Islamic kingdom that dated back from the 13th
century.
I discovered many interesting collections at the museum including the sultan’s throne,
antique silver ceremonial equipment stored in a crystal closet, jewelries and a rehal – an
adjustable stand used by the kings of Kutai Kartanegara to read the Muslim’s holy book
of Al Quran. Interestingly, the rehal is not made of wood like most that we find to today
in the market. Instead, it is made of a mixture of Siberian and Bornean deer antlers.
The museum also displays various archeological artifacts, traditional weaving equipment
used by the Dayak Banuaq, Dayak Kenyah and Dayak Punan to weave Doyo fibers into
lovely fabrics, vintage ceramics, as well as a myriad of other antiquities. The museum is
open every day, except on Fridays and Mondays.
*****************
BOX 10:

14. Around Tenggarong
Kumala Island
The island is accessible from the banks of the Mahakam River using cable cars. Another
alternative is renting one of the dragon-shaped tourist boats usually parked in front of
the museum. Enjoy lunch or dinner on the boat while touring around Kumala Island. The
place is barren, dry and can get very hot during the day. Bring hats and sunglasses.
Erau Festival
Tenggarong also holds an annual festival, Erau International Folklore and Art Festival.
Usually celebrated in July, it is the best opportunity to get to know East Kalimantan’s
exceptional cultures in one go. Contact the local Tourism Office for more details.
Tenggarong Tourism Office
Kutai Kartanegara Regent’s Office Complex
Jalan Wolter Monginsidi 1, Building B, 3rd
Floor
Tenggarong, East Kalimantan
Ph: +62-541-661042, 661093
*****************
Magical Cape Isuy
All of these experiences and stories got me stoked and keen to discover more. While it is
impossible to explore this vast province in just one visit, on a subsequent visit I set aside
some time to travel to an almost magical part of East Kalimantan. Accompanied by six
hardcore globe-trotting friends, I skipped Samarinda and went straight to Kota Bangun,
a small transit town around four hours from Samarinda. Here, we chartered a longboat
and sailed upriver on the glorious Mahakam River.
Several freshwater dolphins escorted our boat in some parts of the river, providing a
great entertainment on our long river journey. Monkeys and proboscis monkeys were
also sometimes seen playing in the trees along the river. A couple of hours later, after
passing a large, seemingly endless lake – Lake Senayang – we finally arrived in a serene
floating village at Tanjung Isuy or Cape Isuy.
Cape Isuy is a settlement dominated by the Dayak Banuaq tribe. We came upon learning
that a magical traditional healing ceremony was going to be performed that night. Much
to our relief, an elderly who warmly welcomed us confirmed it. The elderly also helped
us settled in a lamin where we would be spending the night. I of course used the rest of
day shopping at the local handicraft shop, buying sahuk (a conical hat made of a type of
blue wood fibers), some Doyo sarongs, a traditional blade or mandau, ketika (a Dayak
calendar), a couple of bisung butat (woven bags) and a snup (carved wooden spoon).
The Dayak Banuaq believe that a disease is caused by a lack of balance between body

15. and soul and can be stabilized by conducting the Belian Ceremony, a ritual to heal a sick
person. That blissfully balmy night, the entire tribal community were dressed in their
traditional costumes. Twinkling stars were all around us. Hypnotizing music was played,
sending spectators into a trance-like, whirling and dreamy state. A shaman delivered
mantras for the recovery of the sick person. I stared at a pile of ancestral bones that had
been dug from a nearby sacred graveyard several days earlier. Tonight the bones were
carried to the lamin (yes, where we were staying!) for a further ceremonial service by
the people. The ceremony was completed with a setinggih or an invitation to the spirits
of their forefathers.
Naturally, I had troubles sleeping that night. But on the boat ride back to Kota Bangun
the next day, I accidentally caught my reflection in the calm waters. When did I ever
smile this widely?
Turtle Capital of Southeast Asia
I saved the best for last. In fact, I highly recommend that every trip to East Kalimantan
should end here: the Derawan Archipelago. This compound of four major islands –
Derawan, Sangalaki, Kakaban and Maratua – and a number of submerged atolls in the
Celebes Sea has quickly become the icon of East Kalimantan’s tourism industry.
Aptly nicknamed the “Turtle Capital of Southeast Asia”, the Derawan Archipelago is a
stunning marine paradise where hawksbill, leatherback and green turtles regularly swim
ashore to lay their eggs. They are numerous, especially in the waters around Sangalaki
and Maratua Islands. Due to its remote nature, most sites in the region can only be
accessed on a liveaboard. But a luxurious resort has opened its doors in Maratua Island
for the past several years, providing an easy and comfortable alternative for travelers.
Maratua Paradise Resort (www.maratua.com) is surrounded by dozens of fantastic dive
sites characterized by gentle drifts along plunging walls festooned with hard and soft
corals and a multitude of marine lives.
Apart from the turtles, underwater residents in the archipelago include sharks, manta
rays, barracudas, blue spotted eagle rays and many other pelagics. There are also plenty
of sites for micro lovers looking for pygmy seahorse, nudibranch, porcelain crab and
other wonderfully weird creatures.
The highlight for me, however, is the freshwater lake on Kakaban Island that harbors
stingless jellyfish! It is one of only two places on earth with this rare type of non-stinging
jellyfish. Following a short boardwalk, I was led by my guide straight to a large lake that
takes up the bulk of the interior of the island. Diving here is not permitted due to the
fragility of the jellyfish bodies. But snorkeling is allowed so I took this chance of a
lifetime to swim amongst wonderful jellyfish, sometimes letting them rest on the palms
of my hands. Do take great care when snorkeling in the lake as the jellyfish can easily be
chopped to pieces by a careless flick of the fins.

16. *****************
BOX 11:
Flying to Derawan
Travelers can now fly from Balikpapan to Tanjung Redeb, the capital of Berau Regency
where the Derawan Archipelago is located. From Tanjung Redeb, hire a speedboat to
Derawan Island, the main island in the archipelago, or arrange with a travel operator or
with the Maratua Resort.
Soon there will also be an airport on Maratua Island. Construction is now underway and
travelers can look forward to an even easier access to the fabulous archipelago.
*****************
While It Lasts…
I have heard semi-deranged ideas of making East Kalimantan like Venice – you know…
traveling on the waters and stuff – but without the haunted Victorian buildings. But I
have come to love East Kalimantan just the way it is, preferably with more restored
forests in the future.
Taking a couple steps back to reassess reality however, as time is ticking away and
sickening unsustainable development continues, do travel and set foot on East Borneo
and enjoy its outstanding natural and cultural beauty, while it lasts…
*****************
BOX 12:
A Little Taste of Heaven
Before returning to your hometown from Balikpapan, do remember to taste the huge
and highly celebrated East Bornean crabs at Kepiting Kenari Restaurant. Located on the
way to the airport, recommended dishes include black pepper crab and deep fried crab.
Kepiting Kenari Restaurant
Jalan Marsma Iswahyudi 5
Balikpapan, East Kalimantan
Ph: +62-542-764018
*****************
BOX 13:

17. For Unfortunate Moments
Have these numbers ready for those unexpected unfortunate moments during your
travel in East Kalimantan.
BALIKPAPAN
Hospital
Balikpapan Baru
Jalan MT Haryono Blok A-3A / 7-9
Balikpapan Baru
Ph: +62-542-877330
Pertamina Balikpapan
Jalan Jendral Sudirman 1
Ph: +62-542-421212
Restu Ibu
Jalan A. Yani 6
Ph: +62-542-734181
Siloam Hospital Balikpapan
Jalan MT Haryono 9 (Ring Road)
Ph: +62-542-7206509
Pharmacy
Kimia Farma
Jalan A. Yani 26
Ph: +62-542-739032
Panacea
Jalan MT Haryono
Komplek Mal Fantasi Blok AB 2
Ph: +62-542-877898
SAMARINDA
Hospital
Bakti Nugraha
Jalan Basuki Rahmat 50

18. Ph: +62-541-741363
H.A. Wahab Syahrani
Jalan Dr. Sutomo 1
Ph: +62-541-738118
Pharmacy
Dua Empat
Jalan Dr. Sutomo 34
Ph: +62-541-738173
Kimia Farma
Jalan Dr. Sutomo 36
Ph: +62-541-741639