TEXTILES 101 – QUIZ #5 (TAKE HOME) DUE 10/18/14 RAPA – T/R 7PM-8.15PM Name: Multiple Choice 1. Polyester filling used in a quilt is this type of textile: A. meltblown nonwoven B. felt C. spunbond nonwoven D. interlock E. airlaid nonwoven 2. Another name for double-needle-bar raschel is: A. simplex knit B. lace C. spunlace D. interlock E. spacer knit 3. Round shoelaces are often manufactured using this process A. twisting B. weaving C. bonding D. braiding E. flat knitting 4. The process of making leather pliable, rot and water resistant is A. snuffing B. tanning C. ageing D. splitting E. anti-fungus 5. Leather made from the most durable and expensive part of the hide is called A. suede B. split grain C. top grain D. pleather E. coarse grain 6. In the video on leather manufacturing, what chemical is used to turn the animal skin blue? A. Citric Acid B. Chromium sulfate C. Hydrochloric Acid D. Sodium Hydroxide E. Methylene Blue 7. Carpet is usually manufactured using this method: A. knitting B. tufting C. felting D. stitching E. braiding 8. Color matching under one light source, but not with any other light source is called A. bezold effect B. lab dipping C. metamerism D. incandescent E. crystal theory 9. The number of needles per inch in a knit is the A. gauge B. wale C. count D. course E. decitex 10. Which fabrication method is made with a series of interlocking loops? A. braiding B. lace-making C. knitting D. weaving E. chenille 11. Which of the fabrics below is a sliver knit? A. velour B. interlock C. tricot D. ponti-di-roma E. fake fur 12. Which of the following is not a nonwoven fiberweb structure? A. spunlaced B. air-laid C. needlepunched D. laminated E. spunbonded 13. Cordonnet is a type of A. brocade B. a surface embroidery C. re-embroidered lace D. tapestry E. battenburg lace SHORT ANSWERS 14. List the five steps involved in machine weft knitting: 15. a) Identify the following stitch: a) b) How is this stitch used in weft knitting? 16. What can be produced on a Sangiacomo knitting machine? 17. Describe one resist dyeing technique 18. When needles on one bed line up directly across from needles on the other bed, this is called: 19. List the two kinds of warp knitting machines: a) b) 20. Describe the 3 main nonwoven bonding mechanisms: 21. a) Name a product you use or wear that is made out of a non-woven textile: b) Describe what type of nonwoven it is and how it is produced: 22. a) Describe one method of printing: b) What is the advantage of using this print method over others? Chapter 19 Dyeing and Printing T101 Survey of the Textile Industry Christina Rapa [email protected] 215-490-7999 Important product characteristic Goal: produce a ...

1. TEXTILES 101 – QUIZ #5 (TAKE HOME) DUE 10/18/14
RAPA – T/R 7PM-8.15PM Name:
Multiple Choice
1. Polyester filling used in a quilt is this type of textile:
A. meltblown nonwoven
B. felt
C. spunbond nonwoven
D. interlock
E. airlaid nonwoven
2. Another name for double-needle-bar raschel is:
A. simplex knit
B. lace
C. spunlace
D. interlock
E. spacer knit
3. Round shoelaces are often manufactured using this process
A. twisting
B. weaving
C. bonding

2. D. braiding
E. flat knitting
4. The process of making leather pliable, rot and water resistant
is
A. snuffing
B. tanning
C. ageing
D. splitting
E. anti-fungus
5. Leather made from the most durable and expensive part of the
hide is called
A. suede
B. split grain
C. top grain
D. pleather
E. coarse grain
6. In the video on leather manufacturing, what chemical is used
to turn the animal skin blue?
A. Citric Acid
B. Chromium sulfate
C. Hydrochloric Acid
D. Sodium Hydroxide
E. Methylene Blue
7. Carpet is usually manufactured using this method:
A. knitting
B. tufting

3. C. felting
D. stitching
E. braiding
8. Color matching under one light source, but not with any other
light source is called
A. bezold effect
B. lab dipping
C. metamerism
D. incandescent
E. crystal theory
9. The number of needles per inch in a knit is the
A. gauge
B. wale
C. count
D. course
E. decitex
10. Which fabrication method is made with a series of
interlocking loops?
A. braiding
B. lace-making
C. knitting
D. weaving
E. chenille
11. Which of the fabrics below is a sliver knit?
A. velour
B. interlock
C. tricot

4. D. ponti-di-roma
E. fake fur
12. Which of the following is not a nonwoven fiberweb
structure?
A. spunlaced
B. air-laid
C. needlepunched
D. laminated
E. spunbonded
13. Cordonnet is a type of
A. brocade
B. a surface embroidery
C. re-embroidered lace
D. tapestry
E. battenburg lace
SHORT ANSWERS
14. List the five steps involved in machine weft knitting:

5. 15. a) Identify the following stitch:
a)
b) How is this stitch used in weft knitting?
16. What can be produced on a Sangiacomo knitting machine?
17. Describe one resist dyeing technique
18. When needles on one bed line up directly across from
needles on the other bed, this is called:
19. List the two kinds of warp knitting machines:
a)
b)

6. 20. Describe the 3 main nonwoven bonding mechanisms:
21. a) Name a product you use or wear that is made out of a
non-woven textile:
b) Describe what type of nonwoven it is and how it is
produced:
22. a) Describe one method of printing:

7. b) What is the advantage of using this print method over
others?
Chapter 19
Dyeing and Printing
T101
Survey of the Textile Industry
Christina Rapa
[email protected]
215-490-7999
Important product characteristic
Goal: produce appealing, level, fast color on product at
reasonable price with good performance and minimal
environmental impact, sustainable
Complex: difficult to get color on fabric in uniform appearance
(level) that will not fade, bleed, or alter
Color
Complex phenomenon:Physics of light, chemistry of colored

8. objects, biology of the eye, behavioral sciences, &
aestheticsMetamerism: a color matches with one light source,
but not with any other light sourceBezold effect: when two or
more colors merge into one new color, i.e., small scale print or
yarn dyed fabric viewed from a distance
Color Theory
Assign numerical values to a colorUsed to match color & sort
shadesLab dip: sample prepared by dyehouse, used by creative
team to determine if color match has been achievedColor
matching developing a formula to reproduce a colorShade
sorting: grouping of colors by a manufacturer so that all fabric
of one color match
Color Measurement
Wash-off: rinsing step used to remove excess dye or other
material from a fabricWash-down: color loss that occurs over
time as the textile product is laundered or dry cleaned
Color Terms
General term describing materials used to color
textilesPigmentInsoluble inorganic compound glued or bonded
onto fiber surfaceNo affinity for fiberWhite & colored pigments
Colorants
Ingredients in Pigment PasteOpacifier: produces good covering
powervarious lustersThickenerprevents migration of
pasteThinnerkeeps paste semi-fluidAntibleeding agenteliminates
halo effectPigmentadds colorSoftenermaintains soft hand of
fabric

9. Dye: organic compound, water or other carrier solublehas
affinity for fiber (forms bond with fiber)Fiber specific: fiber
chemistry restricts dyes that can be usedonly certain
combinations of dye class & fiber type workHigh color
strengthFastness varies by dye & dye class
Colorants
Dye componentsChromophore: colored part of molecule
Auxochrome: alters color, provides bonding & solubility sites
Acidic
Basic
Colorants
Acid (anionic): wool, silk, nylon; some rayon, acrylic, &
polyester; bright colors, poor wet fastness, may have poor light
fastness
Azoic: cotton, some polyester; bright shades, good fastness to
light & water; poor crocking; water insoluble; solubility cycle
dye
Dye Classes
Wool
Silk
Nylon
Cationic (basic): acrylic, wool; some polyester & nylongood

10. fastness on synthetics, but poor on natural fibersbright colors
Disperse: Polyestersynthetics; good fastness; may fume fade;
needs special equipment
Dye Classifications
Polyester
Acrylic
Developed direct (direct dye + metal (mordant)):cellulosic
fibersgood light fastnessfair wash fastness, duller colorsDirect:
cellulosic fibers; similar to above, but brighter colors; large,
planar molecules; moderate wet fastnessmost commercially
important class Fluorescent: most fibers; dye absorbs energy at
one wavelength, reemits at another wavelength; whitens; used in
finishing & home laundry
Dye Classifications
Cotton
Most fibers
Mordant dyes (acid dye + metal): wool, silk, nylonsome rayon,
acrylic, & polyesterduller colors; excellent fastness
Natural dyes: minor dye classbest on protein fibers, nylon, and
cellulosicsrenewable & sustainablefrom plant, animal, &
mineral sourcesused for apparel & interiorslimited colors &
availability
Dye Classifications
Reactive: natural fibers; bright, pure colorsgood to excellent
fastnessSulfur: cotton: insoluble in watersolubility cycle dye;
difficult process;dull colors; good fastness; tender fabricused
for bottom weight goodsVat: cotton; insoluble in water;
solubility cycle dyedifficult process; dull colors; good
fastnessincomplete color range; used for bottom weight goods
Dye Classifications

11. Cotton
Cotton
Cotton
Mass pigmentation (solution dyed, dope dyed): add colored
pigments to spinning solutioncolor integral part of fiberGel
dyeing: color incorporated before fiber coagulates
Stage of Dyeing: Fiber Stage
Synthetics: Specialty Fibers
Stock or fiber dyeing:fibers dyed before yarn processingheather
effect
Top dyeing: difficult to distinguish between top & stock dyeing
Fiber Stage
Wool Stock Dyeing
Stripes, plaids, or structural design fabricsMore expensive than
piece dyeing (solid colors usually piece or product dyed, not
yarn or fiber dyed)
Stage of Dyeing: Yarn Stage
Swatch Kit - Fiber & Yarn Dyed
?
?
?
?
?
?

12. ?
Rope Dyeing: Indigo dye / Denim JeansWarp yarns are dyed in
“ropes” before slashed onto warp beam
Yarn Dyeing
More likely to see stripe parallel to warp yarns in woven fabric
(easier to dress loom) or parallel to course in knit fabric
(change color at yarn feed for circular or flat bed knits)
Yarn Dyeing
Yarn Dyeing
Dyed in fabric stage: usually solid color
Cross dyeing: fibers of different dye receptivity (modification
or generic class) for different colors
Union dyeing: fibers of different dye receptivity (modification
or generic class) for single uniform color
Fabric Dyeing: Piece Dyed
Wool
Cotton
Beck, reel, or winch dyeing: continuously immerse fabric in
dyebath
Methods of Dyeing:
Fabric Dyeing
Jig dyeing: large runs of fabric passed through dyebath several

13. times
Methods of Dyeing:
Fabric Dyeing
Pad dyeing: in bath in open width; dye forced into fabric (30-
300 yd/min)
Methods of Dyeing:
Fabric Dyeing
Batch or exhaust dyeing: textile circulated through dyebath
Package dyeing: dyebath forced through textile; usually yarns,
but some fiber & fabric
Methods of Dyeing
Textile & dyebath circulated
Jet dyeing: similar to beck dyeing; delicate fabrics; 215-870
yd/min
Continuous machine or range: large lots of goods; one or two
bath processes for union and cross dyeing; Thermosol process
Combination Dyeing
Product (or garment) stage

14. Color added after product is cut & sewn
Found in socks, hosiery, tee shirts, jackets, slacks, towels, etc.
Problems with leveling, difference in components, poor
penetration, dimensional changes; requires well prepared gray
goods
Garment Dyeing
Paddle machine, rotary drum, or tumbler: product dyeing;
abrasive & chemical washes
Combination Dyeing
Color prevented from entering fabric in specific areas when
piece or yarn dyed Batik: hot wax on fabric in design; set; piece
dyed; wax removed; price related to quality & colors
Resist Dye: Batik
Tie-dyed: yarn or fabric wrapped to prevent dye penetration
during piece dyeing; thread removed after dyeing
Resist Dye: Tie Dye
Ikat: yarn tied to prevent dye penetration, dyed, woven; single
or double ikat
Resist Dye: Ikat .
Localized application of color to fabric’s surfacePaste made of
dyes (not pigments): wet printPaste made of pigments: dry
print; adhesive
(may change fabric hand)

15. Printing
Direct print: color applied directly to desired location
Block: hand process; carved wood block pressed in dye paste,
stamped onto fabric; different block for each color
Printing
Roller etched with designpicks up paste & presses it onto fabric
as fabric passes between rollersdifferent roller for each color up
to 16 colors
Direct Roller Print .
Discharge print: Piece dyed fabricColor removed by printing
with bleach pasteUsually dark groundDischarged areas may be
tender with poor aging resistanceTrace of dark ground may
appear on technical back in print area or dark areas surrounding
print are same color face & back (piece dyed, then discharged)
Discharge Printing
Discharge
Direct
Warp yarns printed before weaving; hazy pattern
Warp Print
Screen print: screens etched with design control location of
color; one screen/colorFlat screen: screen is flat; slower; for
shorter yardages
Screen Printing

16. Fabric Swatch Kit #83
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?
Screen Printing: Flat Screen
Rotary screen: screen in cylinder form, fastermost common
method to print yardage
Screen Printing: Rotary
Digital (ink jet) print: color applied using ink jet printer
Carpets & textile samples
Digital Printing
*
Heat transfer print: print design on paper with disperse
sublimable dyes (with heat, dye evaporates)fabric & design on
paper are placed in close contact, heated, dye transfers
Heat Transfer Printing
Swatch Kit # 85 / 86
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?
?

17. ?
Fabric Swatch kit #82 / 83 / 84
Foil print: special adhesive applied to fabricfabric dyed and
partially curedfoil transferred by heat transfer pressbonds only
where adhesive has been applied
Stencil print: precursor of screen printpaper or metal
patternbrush or spray color on
Foil / Stencil Printing
Electrostatic printpowdered dye heat-fixed to fabric surfacedye
location controlled by screens
Differential printscreen print on carpet with fibers of different
dye affinity (cross dye)
Other Printing Methods
*
Colorfastnessrelated to chemistry of fibers, dyes, & pigments;
penetration, & fixationBleedingloss of color in water or other
solutions, may color other fabrics presentMigrationcolor
movement to adjacent areas or fabrics
Color Problems

18. Crockingcolor transfer to another fabric from rubbing together
Fadingcolor loss due to perspiration, gas fumes, sunlightdyes
degraded
Color Problems
Tenderingfabric strength loss due to reaction of dye &
fibercaused by heat, light, atmospheric contamination, etc.
Color Problems
Frostingcolored portion of fabric lost by abrasion (due to poor
dye penetration)
Out-of-registerprint color overlaps or misses desired areas
Color Problems
Chapters 15, 19Found on BlackboardPrint outHand-write
answers10% deduction for each day late
Test #5 – Due Tuesday, Apr 22nd
Write a one-page description of the job and what interests you
about the position.
Describe what makes you qualified for this internship and how
you can prepare for the interview.
Opportunities can be found on job websites such as

19. Stylecareers.com; LinkedIn, VelvetJobs, PhilaUniv Careers
website or even the Company's website.
Assignment #4 – Internship Research
Due: Tuesday, November 4th
Research an internship opportunity at a company you would like
to work for
*** Can be anywhere in the world***A works cited page must
be includedDouble spaced, no more than 12 font
*
Chapter 15
Other Fabrication Methods:
Fabrics from solutions,
fibers, yarns, and fabrics
T101
Survey of the Textile Industry
Christina Rapa
[email protected]
215-490-7999
Film
Fabric from
Solution

20. : Foam
*