1) A vented attic is a simple and effective roof assembly design that works well everywhere if properly constructed. 2) Key details for a vented attic include a fully airsealed attic floor, sufficient attic insulation, continuous soffit venting, and a slight positive pressure in the attic space. 3) A vented roof deck can be used if the attic is conditioned space or has a vaulted ceiling, with at least 2 inches of ventilation space between the sheathing and insulation.

1. A Crash Course in
Roof Venting
Understand when to vent your roof,
when not to, and how to execute
each approach successfully
by joseph Lstiburek
S
o much information
has been devoted to the
subject of roof venting
that it’s easy to become
confused and to lose focus. So
I’ll start by saying something
that might sound controversial,
but really isn’t: A vented attic,
where insulation is placed on an roof VenTing 101
Vent the attic space
air-sealed attic floor, is one of the
most underappreciated building
assemblies that we have in the
To ensure that a vented attic performs at its best,
history of building science. It’s
you need to get the details right. Here are five
hard to screw up this approach.
rules that are critical to the success of this simple
A vented attic works in hot cli-
roof design. These rules must guide design and
mates, mixed climates, and cold
construction no matter where the roof is being built.
climates. It works in the Arctic
and in the Amazon. It works
absolutely everywhere—when
executed properly.
Unfortunately, we manage to entire attic or if you’re venting ventilation serves either role, top level of the house being
screw it up again and again, and only the roof deck. depending on the season. absolutely airtight before any
a poorly constructed attic or roof In a cold climate, the pri- insulation is installed. (See “Attic-
assembly can lead to excessive mary purpose of ventilation is Vent the attic Insulation Upgrade” in FHB
energy losses, ice dams, mold, to maintain a cold roof tempera- A key benefit of venting the attic #200.) It’s also important to
rot, and lots of unnecessary ture to avoid ice dams created is that the approach is the same ensure that there isn’t anything
homeowner angst. by melting snow and to vent regardless of how creative your in the attic except lots of insula-
Here, I’ll explain how to con- any moisture that moves from architect got with the roof. Be- tion and air—not the Christmas
struct a vented attic properly. I’ll the conditioned living space to cause the roof isn’t in play here, decorations, not the tuxedo you
also explain when it makes sense the attic. (See “Energy Smart it doesn’t matter how many hips, wore on your wedding day,
to move the thermal, moisture, Details” in FHB #218 for more valleys, dormers, or gables there nothing. Attic space can be used
and air-control layers to the roof on ice dams.) are. It’s also easier and often less for storage, but only if you build
plane, and how to detail vented In a hot climate, the primary expensive to pile on fiberglass or an elevated platform above the
and unvented roofs correctly. purpose of ventilation is to expel cellulose insulation at the attic insulation. Otherwise, the insu-
solar-heated hot air from the floor to hit target R-values than lation gets compressed or kicked
Theory behind venting attic or roof to reduce the build- it is to achieve a comparable around, which diminishes its R-
The intent of roof venting var- ing’s cooling load and to relieve R-value in the roof plane. value. Also, attic-access hatches
ies depending on climate, but it the strain on air-conditioning The success of this approach are notoriously leaky. You can
is the same if you’re venting the systems. In mixed climates, hinges on the ceiling of the build an airtight entry to the
68 FINE HOMEBUILDING Drawings: John Hartman
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2. 4. ProViDe PLenTY of AirSPACe
The IRC calls for 1 in. of airspace, but I call
for a 2-in.-minimum airspace between the
back of the roof sheathing and the top of 3. VenT THe SoffiT
the insulation. This will ensure sufficient ConTinUoUSLY
airflow through the roof assembly. The vent should be placed as far
to the outside edge of the soffit
as possible. Otherwise, warm air
next to the heated siding can rise,
enter the vent, melt snow, and
cause ice dams. This is especially
a concern on cold-climate homes
with deep eaves.
1. SeAL THe ATTiC fLoor CoMPLeTeLY
Make sure the attic floor is absolutely airtight
before any bulk insulation is installed. Air leaks
in these critical areas are major contributors to
energy loss in all climates and cause ice dams
in cold climates.
2. BULK UP THe inSULATion
5. SLigHTLY PreSSUriZe THe ATTiC ABoVe THe ToP PLATe
Building codes suggest balancing the intake and exhaust ventilation. The code, however, is Make sure the amount of
wrong, and I’m working hard to get it changed. More ventilation at the eaves than at the ridge insulation (typically fiberglass or
will slightly pressurize the attic. A depressurized attic can suck conditioned air out of the living cellulose) above the top plate
space, and losing that conditioned air wastes money. is equal to or greater than the
For best results, provide between 50% and 75% of the ventilation space at the eaves; a R-value of the wall assembly,
60/40 split is a good sweet spot. The code specifies 1 sq. ft. of net free-vent area (NFVA) for never less.
every 300 sq. ft. of attic space. (Keep in mind that different vent products have different NFVA
ratings.) Here’s how to do the math for a 1200-sq.-ft. attic.
step 4
Apply it to the particular soffit and
step 1 step 2 step 3
ridge vents that you are using.
Calculate how much Convert that Divide it up between the Soffit vents
NFVA you need. to inches. soffit and the ridge. 345.6 sq. in. ÷ 9 (NFVA-per-ft.
1200 sq. ft. 4 sq. ft. of NFVA 60% of 576 sq. in. = rating of vent)
÷ 300 sq. ft. x 144 (in. per sq. ft.) 345.6 sq. in. (soffit vents) = 38.4 lin. ft. of intake, or
= 4 sq. ft. of NFVA = 576 sq. in. of NFVA = 19.2 ft. of intake per side of roof
40% of 576 sq. in. =
230.4 sq. in. (ridge vents) Ridge vents
230.4 sq. in. ÷ 9
= 25.6 lin. ft. of exhaust
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3. Drywall ceiling, provision R806.3 in the
fire barrier
International Residential Code
calls for the roof deck above the
space to be vented continuously
from the eave to the ridge. This
is easy to accomplish in simply
constructed roofs and difficult,
if not impossible, to accomplish
in roofs that have hips, valleys,
dormers, or skylights that inter-
rupt the rafter bays.
If you choose to vent the roof
deck, then be serious about it
and really vent it. The code
calls for a minimum of 1 in. of
airspace between the top of the
insulation and the back of
the roof sheathing. That’s not
enough. For best performance,
R-42 assembly the airspace in the vent chute
should be a minimum of 2 in.
deep. Unless you’re bulk-filling
6½-in. closed-cell foam
rafter bays between 2x10 or 2x8
Prefab vent
baffle rafters with closed-cell spray
foam, this approach will likely
require you to fur out the raf-
roof VenTing 201 ters to accommodate additional
Vent the roof deck insulation to achieve desired
R-values. That can be a pain, but
If the attic space is conditioned or if a room has
you won’t run into the problems
a vaulted ceiling, the roof deck should be vented
associated with having too little
from eave to ridge. I suggest a 2-in. airspace
air circulating under the roof.
To be sure your roof is getting
between the sheathing and the insulation. The
enough ventilation, there are
IRC calls for a minimum of 1 in. of airspace; the
simple calculations that you can
AccuVent baffles shown here comply.
follow (sidebar p. 69)
Beyond the decreased capac-
ity for insulation when venting
attic, but you should know that Don’t think you can get away to take some of the responsibil- the roof deck, venting the roof
the more it is used, the leakier with putting ductwork in an ity out of the builder’s hands and deck or the attic has some other
it gets. unconditioned attic just because think of other options. drawbacks worth considering.
How do people get this simple you sealed and insulated it. Duct- In a situation where mechani- In cold climates, snow can enter
approach wrong? They don’t sealing is faith-based work. You cal systems or ductwork has to be the soffit and ridge vents, melt,
follow the rules. They punch can only hope you’re doing a in the attic space or when there and potentially cause rot. Simi-
a bunch of holes in the ceiling, good-enough job. Even when are lots of penetrations in the larly, in coastal environments or
they fill the holes with recessed you’re really diligent about air- ceiling below the attic, it’s best to in regions with lots of rain and
lights that leak air, and they sealing, you can take a system bring the entire attic area inside wind, moisture can be forced
stuff mechanical systems with with 20% leakage and bring it the thermal envelope. This way, into the vents and into the roof
air handlers and a serpentine down to maybe 5% leakage, and it’s not as big a deal if the ceiling assembly. In hurricane-prone
array of ductwork in the attic. that’s still not good enough. leaks air or if the ducts are leaky zones with frequent high-wind
The air leakage from these holes With regard to recessed lights and uninsulated. events, vented-soffit collapse
and systems is a major cause of and other ceiling penetrations, it can pressurize a building, which
ice dams in cold climates and a would be great if we could rely Vent the roof deck can cause windows to blow out
major cause of humidity prob- on the builder to air-seal all these If the attic space is going to be and the roof to be blown off.
lems in hot climates. It’s also an areas. Unfortunately, we can’t be conditioned, either for living Finally, in wildfire zones, floating
unbelievable energy waste no sure the builder will air-seal well or mechanical purposes, or if a embers can enter the vents and
matter where you live. or even air-seal at all. So we have home design calls for a vaulted cause roof fires. If any of these
70 FINE HOMEBUILDING
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4. 2-in. XPS
R-58 assembly rigid foam
R-10
Two-in. XPS
rigid foam option 2: insulate above R-30
reduces thermal and below the roof
bridging. Not all homes have deep-
enough rafters to insulate to
desired R-values easily. Similarly,
not everyone can afford to spray
nearly 10 in. of open- or closed-
cell spray foam in their roof or to
stack a half-foot of rigid foam on the
roof deck. An alternative option is to
insulate the rafter bays with a less expensive insulation like
fiberglass or cellulose and to control the temperature of the
roof sheathing with rigid foam on the exterior. This approach
works well in nearly any assembly, but especially on cathedral
ceilings. The approach also remedies thermal-bridging issues.
Drywall
fire barrier
7½-in. closed-cell foam
option 1: insulate below the roof
6-in.
The most conventional approach to insulating
polyiso
a roof is to put all the insulation below the roof
foam
deck. This approach is especially prevalent in
retrofits when the existing roof is in good shape
but the attic is being conditioned. R-39
option 3: insulate
MASTer CLASS above the roof
Unvented roofs
By adopting this approach,
you’re essentially building a
site-made SIP (see “Built for Foul
Weather,” pp. 76-81). Three 2-in. layers of polyiso
Unvented roofs aren’t nearly as common as vented rigid insulation are stacked on top of each other with
assemblies, and builders may not be familiar with detailing their seams staggered and taped. This approach is
most popular on timber-frame structures, on vaulted
them correctly. While there are certainly a variety of ways ceilings, or on roof assemblies where you want the
to build an unvented roof assembly that performs well, rafters to be exposed from below. Installing all the
here are three examples worth considering. insulation above the roof deck helps to eliminate
thermal bridging through the roof.
PreVenT ConDenSATion WiTH
Zone 7
THe rigHT AMoUnT of inSULATion Zone 6 r-30
r-25
An unvented roof assembly is possible Zone 4c
r-49
r-49
only if you keep the roof sheathing warm r-10
enough to prevent conditioned air from r-38
Zone 5
condensing against it. the map at right, r-20
which is based on table r806.4 of the irC, r-38
lists the minimum r-values required to pre-
vent condensation in unvented assemblies
in various climate zones. the thickness of Zones 4a, 4b
the insulation will vary depending on the r-15
type. these r-value requirements are in- r-38
Zones 2b, 3b
tended only to prevent condensation and None required for tile roofs
Zones 1, 2, 3
don’t supersede the code-required r-values
Condensation control: r-5
for energy efficiency, which are also listed. Climate 1 overall roof: r-30
zones 2 3 4 5 6 7
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5. eXTrA CreDiT issues are of concern, there is works in all climates, but espe-
another option. cially well in climate zones 5
Site-built or prefab baffles? Create an unvented roof
through 8, where high R-val-
ues are desired and where air-
The success of a vented attic or roof deck relies on its
airtightness. The space above the top plate of exterior
Through provision R806.4, the impermeable insulation also
IRC also allows you to build must be a vapor retarder. Low-
walls—at the bottom of each rafter bay—is especially
an unvented roof assembly. density, open-cell foam is permis-
important. Baffles placed in this area channel intake air into
Unvented assemblies work par- sible, but in climate zones 5 and
either the attic space or vent chutes, and also prevent
ticularly well on complex roofs above, it has to be covered with
insulation from falling into the soffit and blocking airflow.
that would be difficult or impos- a vapor-retarder coating, like
sible to vent properly or on roofs rigid foam or painted drywall.
Site-built: 2-in. chutes and baffles
Cut 1-in.-thick rigid polyiso insulation into 2-in.-
where it would be difficult to Also pay attention to roof-
wide spacer strips, and glue them to the inside insulate properly if the roof ing materials. Asphalt shingles
face of each rafter with a spray-foam adhesive were vented. require special attention when
like Pur Stick (www.todol.com). Cut the
polyiso insulation to fit snugly in each It should be noted, however, installed on unvented roof
rafter bay, and foam it in place against that in high-snow-load areas, assemblies in hot-humid, mixed-
the spacer to create a 2-in. chute or you still need a vented over-roof humid, and marine climates due
baffle.
Size: Custom-cut polyiso foam
to deal with ice damming. In to inward vapor drive. To keep
Cost: $23 per sheet
essence, you’re creating a hybrid moisture out of the roof assem-
Source: Dow
vented/unvented roof system. bly, a roofing underlayment
www.dow.com The goal in an unvented roof is with 1 perm or less (class-II
to keep the roof deck—the prin- vapor retarder) must be installed
cipal condensing surface in roof under the shingles. Also, check
1-in. rigid assemblies—sufficiently warm to be sure that you are in com-
foam
through the year to prevent pliance with the manufacturer
condensation from occurring. warranties when installing
In most climates, builders have shingles over an unvented roof
Rigid-foam
furring strips
to insulate the roof sheathing in all climates. Some manufac-
to prevent condensation from turers don’t warranty or offer
occurring within the assembly. only a limited warranty when
Spray-foam
sealant The exception is hot-dry cli- their products are used over an
mates such as in Phoenix, where unvented roof assembly.
condensation isn’t as big an issue. Shingles that are installed
Prefab: fast and functional
The AccuVent soffit insulation baffle is made of
Condensation control is most on unvented roof assemblies
rigid recycled plastic. It’s more durable than often accomplished by installing operate at slightly higher tem-
other foam-based products and installs rigid foam above the roof deck peratures, roughly 2°F to 3°F
quickly with staples. These baffles should
still be air-sealed with spray foam, or by installing air-impermeable warmer than shingles on vented
but they’re a good option if you’re spray-foam insulation directly assemblies. This can reduce
looking for a stock product. against the underside of the roof their service life by roughly 10%.
Size: 41 in. by 22 in. deck. The code also allows for You can vent the roof cladding,
Cost: $1.68 each
air-permeable insulation, such which will increase its longev-
Source: Berger Building
Products
as fiberglass or cellulose, to be ity, but the expense of fastening
www.bergerbuilding used under the roof deck as battens over the roof sheathing,
products.com long as rigid foam is used above then adding another layer of
the roof sheathing. Flash-and- plywood over the battens as a
Spray-foam batt (or flash-fill) assemblies nail base for the shingles, may
sealant are also allowed. Any of these not be worth the expense. After
approaches can adequately all, the shingle color and the roof
Baffle prevent condensation from orientation are much more sig-
occurring within the roof when nificant concerns when it comes
the rigid foam or spray foam is to shingle life.
installed at the appropriate
thickness (chart p. 71). This article was excerpted
Go to Finehomebuilding.com for a If you’re spraying foam on from a class taught by Joseph
video of Joseph Lstiburek the underside of the roof deck, Lstiburek, Ph.D., P.Eng., of
speaking about roof
be sure you’re using the right Building Science Corp. in
venting.
product. Closed-cell spray foam Westford, Mass.
72 FINE HOMEBUILDING
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