3. BECK MAGAZINE
NË04
FOUNDER AND PUBLISHER LOUISE JUNGILD
PARTNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR LISA GJĂNNES
EDITOR IN CHIEF MARIE LOUISE
ART DIRECTION + GRAPHIC DESIGN LISA GJĂNNES
PHOTOGRAPHERS HEDI SLIMANE, CAROLINE BLOMST
CONTRIBUTORS LASSE LANGEDAL
TRANSLATIONS + CORRECTIONS LENA BERG
COVER LISA GJĂNNES
PRINT ĂIEN OG INDERGAARD
INFO@BECKMAGAZINE.COM
WWW.BECKMAGAZINE.COM
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/BECK
Beck Magazine is the ultimate in creative col-
laborations, showcasing a dynamic and diverse
array of ideas and talent. This bi-monthly pub-
lication presents an innovative collection of
fashion, photography, illustration and writings
from global contributors. In this months issue,
we present to you the following articles:
CONTENT
INTERVIEW WITH ANDREJ PEJIC
FASHIONSHOOT BY HEDI SLIMANE
ALL ABOUT FASHION WEEK
INTERVIEW WITH EMMANUELLE ALT
4. French Vogueâs editor, Emmanuelle Alt, buys her jeans
at Topshop. She also has a keen eye for the next big thing.
TEXT HILARY ALEXANDER
PHOTO STCHLMST.COM
APRIL/MAY 2012 | BECK | 98 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
5. She loathes exercise, has never been to
a gym, dismisses massages and facials,
and isnât too bothered about her hair
and make-up. It would be hard to find a
fashionista who less fitted the image of
Mireille Guilianoâs 2005 bestseller about
eternal Parisienne chic, French Women
Donât Get Fat, were it not for the fact
Emmanuelle Alt is as thin as a whippet.
She doesnât carry the habitual front-row
âaccessoryâ - a bottle of lâeau minerale.
âI donât like water. I drink Diet Coke.â
Nor does she smoke, or drink alcohol or
even sip a âcafĂŠ.â There are times indeed
when French Vogueâs new editor-in-chief,
doubts she really is French.
Emmanuelle Alt as the new editor
Emmanuelle Alt has one accessory she
prizes above all others, and is currently
utilizing it to full effect. âCâest urgent,
urgent, urgent,â she commands into her
BlackBerry Bold. What exactly is so
urgent, who can say? As editor of French
Vogue since February, she likely has
a long list to choose from, juggling the
demands of running the show and also
contributing to the spectacle; Alt, who
was fashion director of the magazine for
a decade before her ascent after editor
Carine Roitfeld departed, still styles sit-
tings and covers. âI couldnât only be an
office girl; Iâd die,â she says. âI did thisâ
she picks up a copy of her June/July issue,
with Isabeli Fontana styled to look like
Linda Evangelista circa 1991.
âI donât look after myself. I donât do yoga,
Pilates, those things. I hate physical effort,
I donât run anywhere, but I am super-
energetic. Make-up? I just black my eyes
and thatâs it. My hair? I get it cut on set. I
never go to a hairdresser. Iâm not sure Iâm
French. You think Iâm not smart enough?â
The rhetorical question matches Altâs
drĂ´le, self-deprecating sense of humour.
Smart? She has it sewn up, and is as sharp
as the razor-heels on her favourite Gui-
seppi Zanotti ankle-boots.
Alt, 43, has epitomised rock ânâ roll style
re-born for the last decade. She is as far-
removed from the groomed, coiffed, mani-
cured and maquillaged image of The Devil
Wears Prada as Venus from Mars, albeit
her son, Antonin, 14, subscribes to Ameri-
can Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintourâs
love of tennis and could probably take her
to match point.
Alt knows she has her part to play, sensing
that the shift in one of the most revered
forms of cultural expression in France has
to be signaled to the world via the pages
of her Vogue: âIt is really strange, editng
the magazine; itâs like decorating an
apartment you have lived in for ten years
already,â she says. âI knew what I wanted
to change about it. I wanted to see things
with humor, to present ideas and pictures
that will make people laugh or smile. I am
a happy person,â she continues, âand I
donât think people want bad news. Itâs not
that everything we do is accessiblehaute
couture isnât accessible, diamonds arenât
accessible - but I want the girl they are
shown on to be real, identifiable, someone
youâd like to know.â That is echoed by one
of her long-term collaborators, the pho-
tographer Mario Sorrenti. âEmmanuelle
is not a dark person,â he says. âShe cares
about positivity.â
âMY FIRST FIRST FASHIONSHOW WAS JEAN
PAUL GAULTIER, WHEN I WAS 19. IT WAS
CRAZY. I LOVED ITâ
FACTS
Emmanuelle Alt was born
May 18th 1967 in Paris, and
is the editor-in-chief of Vogue
Paris since February 2011,
succeeding Carine Roitfeld.
Alt had been fashion director
of the magazine from 2000,
when Roitfeld assumed the
chief editorâs position and
hired Alt directly from Mixte
magazine.
Prior to Mixte, she held posi-
tions at French ELLE, starting
in 1984, when she was only
17 years old, and then at 20
she became the editor-in-chief
in 1993.
10 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
6. Alt is rarely seen in a skirt. Her âuniformâ
is skinny jeans, from J Brand, Acne, or,
her favourite, Topshop; âI love Topshop.
When I go to London my first thing to do
is I put my stuff in the hotel and I run to
Topshop - they have the best jeans!â
She wears them with T-shirts, cashmere
sweaters from Ralph Lauren or Prada, a
Balmain jacket , a vintage fur, and those
spike-heeled boots. Nonchalant, cool chic
is the Alt attitude. Emmanuelleâs style is
always original, part street, part romantic,
very personalâand very French.
She inherited her fashion savvy, as well
as her height, gazelle-legs and camera-
ready looks from her mother, Françoise, a
Lanvin and Nina Ricci model in the 1960s
and 70s.
âWhen she stopped modelling, we would
go to fashion shows together. My first was
Jean Paul Gaultier, when I was 19. It was
crazy. I loved it.â
She surely could have followed in her
motherâs footsteps, but squashes that
thought immediately: âThatâs not me.
Iâm a big fan of photography, but itâs more
fun to style. I enjoy working on the inspira-
tion, and the everyday life of a magazine.â
Off-duty she loves spending time with her
partner, the art director, Franck Durand,
father of Antonin. She enjoys cooking, eat-
ing, family holidays in Corsica or Formen-
tera; driving is a passion; âI would love to
own a Porsche or a Jaguar, but I canât
with the children. But I love fast cars. In
the summer we did a road-trip to Cali-
fornia; I did not let my husband take the
wheel once.â
Emmanuelle Alt on her love of driving
Alt began her career at French Elle, then
worked for 20ans, and alternative glossy,
Mixte. In 2001, she was hired as French
Vogueâs fashion director by her predecessor,
Carine Roitfeld; the two no longer speak.
Altâs Vogue fashion shoots, together with
consulting for Isabel Marant and Balmain,
turned her into one of Planet Fashionâs
most recognizable icons. Now that she is
editor, the freelance styling stops, and
much of her styling for Vogue. But she
plans to do one fashion shoot a month.
She has no radical plans and says the
magazine wonât become âall rock ânâ roll.â
Emmanuelle Alt on the new direction
Her first issue, out in 10 daysâ time, fea-
tures Brazilian beauty Gisele Bundchen,
the current âfaceâ of Balenciaga, as the
cover girl.
âOf course, some things will change,
because we (ie. Roitfeld) have a different
eye. I would like to have more beauty,
more lifestyle. I want to use more young
designers. We should surprise every time,
otherwise it could be boring.â
An example is the recent haute couture
shoot she styled in London for the May
issue, with Kate Moss photographed by
the ace duo, Mert and Marcus. At the last
minute, she found a design by the relative
unknown, Julien Fournie, and added it to
the illustrious line-up of Givenchy, Yves
Saint Laurent, Dior, Chanel, and Alexan-
dre Vauthier creations. âIt was a coup de
coeur.â
âI will try even more to support young de-
signers. I like to keep my curiosity up. The
industry is always waiting, begging for a
name. But it is rare to find a big âtrĂŠsorâ, so
you must keep looking.â
She proved her commitment by hosting
the first French Vogue platform for 10 new
talents, with an exhibition at The Crillon
Hotel, which opened last week, with Kate
Winslet as a guest of honour. The design-
ersâ work was displayed in a series of ta-
bleux designed by Vincent DarrĂŠ, amongst
stuffed crocodiles, a tigerâs head, skulls
and masks; alternative indeed.
Emmanuelleâs Alt-ernatives
Emmanuelle Alt was the woman who did
propelled Balmainâs Christophe Decarnin
onto the fashion radar. So who does she
have her eye on now?
Bouchra Jarrar, Alexandre Vauthier, Blue
Ancor, Anthony Vaccarello - âI think he
has a big futureâ - Julien Fournie, Maxime
Simoens, Olympia Le Tan, Louis Maxi-
mander, Haider Ackermann, Damir Doma.
âI WILL TRY EVEN
MORE TO SUPPORT
YOUNG DESIGNERS.
I LIKE TO KEEP MY
CURIOSITY UPâ
Emmanuelle Alt has become
known for her laid-back rock
& roll style, which usually con-
sists of a few simple pieces like
tailored blazers, leather jackets,
the perfect skinny jeans and
ankle boots.
Emmanuelle pays close atten-
tion to detail and chooses piec-
es that fit her beautifully - her
jeans always just skim her body
and never stick to her figure,
while her timeless selection
of blazers are always slightly
oversized and boyish, playing
with her slender proportions.
Emmanuelle selects pieces
by the likes of Balmain when
looking to make a statement,
and always falls back on her
crisp white skinny jeans that
look tailor-made for the editor.
APRIL/MAY 2012 | BECK | 13
7.
8. LONDON
London Fashion Week is or-
ganised by the British Fashion
Council for the London De-
velopment Agency with help
from the Department for Busi-
ness, Innovation and Skills,
London Fashion Week first
took place in 1984. It presents
itself to funders as a trade
event that also attracts signifi-
cant press attention and benefit
to taxpayers. It states that it is
attended by over 5,000 press
and buyers, and has estimated
orders of ÂŁ40m or ÂŁ100m.
A retail-focused event, London
Fashion Weekend, takes place
immediately afterwards at the
same venue and is open to the
general public.
NEW YORK
New York Fashion Week,
branded Mercedes-Benz Fash-
ionWeek in 2009.
The first New York Fashion
Week, which was then called
âPress Weekâ was the worldsâ
first ever organized fash-
ion week.
First held in 1943, the event
was designed to attract atten-
tion away from the French
fashion during World War II,
when fashion industry insiders
were unable to travel to Paris
to see French fashion shows.
Fashion publicist Eleanor
Lambert organized an event
she called âPress Weekâ to
showcase American designers.
MILAN
Milan Fashion Week, was es-
tablished in 1958. The sched-
ule begins with New York,
followed by London, and then
Milan, and ending the events
in Paris.
The Milan Fashion Week is
owned by Camera Nazion-
ale della Moda Italiana, a
non profit association which
disciplines, co-ordinates and
promotes the development of
Italian Fashion and is respon-
sible for hosting the fashion
events and shows of Milan.
The "Camera Sindacale della
Moda Italiana", was set up on
11 June 1958. This was the
forerunner of the body which
subsequently became new.
PARIS
Paris Fashion Week is a famous
fashion week held semi-annually
in Paris, France with Spring/
Summer and Autumn/Winter
events held each year.
Dates are determined by the
French Fashion Federation.
Currently, the Fashion Week is
held in the Carrousel du Louvre.
In 2013 Paris Fashion Week
starts January 18 with Y Pro-
ject by Yohan Serfati, and will
be followed by shows from
major Fashion houses such
as Louis Vuitton, Comme des
Garcons Homme Homme,
Paul Smith and more. These
runway shows are held to ad-
vertise and to increase sales
for famous fashion designers.
ABOUT FASHION WEEK
A fashion week is a fashion industry event,
lasting approximately one week, which
allows fashion designers, brands or "hous-
es" to display their latest collections in
runway shows and buyers and the media
to take a look at the latest trends. Most im-
portantly, these events let the industry know
what's "in" and what's "out" for the season. The
most prominent fashion weeks are held in
the four fashion capitals of the world: New
York City, London, Milan, and Paris:
THE
INDUSTRY
EVENT
APRIL/MAY 2012 | BECK | 1716 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
14. TEXT CHARLOTTE WILLIAMSON
PHOTOGRAPHY MERT AND MARCUS
The model that some are calling fashionâs new âitâ
girl isnât a girl at all. Andrej Pejic takes the indus-
tryâs fascination with androgyny to a new extreme.
28 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
15. Pejicâs androgenous look is entirely
his own creation â today, for instance,
heâs wearing a light grey micro-mini
dress, thick black tights and biker boots.
âAround the age of 14, I decided to experi-
ment with my look,â he explains. âAs a
kid, you get to the stage where you realise
the gender barriers that exist in society
and what youâre supposed to do and not
supposed to do. I really tried being some-
one else during that period. It was hard
for me â not being able to express myself
and feeling I had to be someone else.â
âBut now Iâm comfortable in my skin, and
for my look to be celebrated is great. My
look is very personal to me. When I started
experimenting, it was a personal decision
because I was unhappy. It wasnât some-
thing I did for attention.â
What does remain intriguing, though, is
why designers would want a man model-
ling womenâs clothes.
Originally from Bosnia â his mother is
Serbian, his father Croatian â Pejic was
born shortly before the start of the Balkan
conflict. His family moved to Serbia and,
when he was eight, to Melbourne, Aus-
tralia.
Pejic was spotted shortly before his seven-
teenth birthday. âI was working in McDon-
aldâs part time, and this guy came in â he
wanted a cheeseburger. He then told me to
see him at his modelling agency.â
His friends and family have been sup-
portive throughout. Iâve always been
experimental. So they arenât surprised.
Obviously, they were surprised to see me.
Andrej Pejic is the in-demand model cut-
ting a dash at London Fashion Week â in
womenâs wear.
Tall and impossibly skinny, with impec-
cably arched eyebrows and cheekbones
sharp as diamonds: on first impression,
fashionâs latest darling looks no different
to any of the other freaks of nature gliding
through the offices of Storm model agency.
Except this seasonâs most-wanted model
isnât, for once, a she â itâs a he.
In an industry obsessed with the new,
fashion has certainly found it with Andrej
Pejic. Last month, the 19-year-old a
ready something of a name in menswear-
caused a stir when he modelled womens-
wear for the Paris couture shows; he
even wore a wedding dress for Jean
Paul Gaultier.
Right now, Pejic is very much in demand.
As well as editorials with prestigious
photographers such as Steven Meisel and
Mert & Marcus for Paris and Italian Vogue,
he is the gender-bending face of the new
advertising campaign for Marc by Marc
Jacobs. Tonight he will be back in wom-
enâs clothing, modelling on the catwalk
for Vivienne Westwood as part of London
Fashion Week.
So which does he prefer â menâs or wom-
enâs? âIâm comfortable doing both,â he
says, âalthough womenswear is more
glamorous. The clothes are more exciting.
In menswear I have to work more at hav-
ing a masculine presence. But then thatâs
my job. If they put me in, say, a rubbish
bag and I feel completely unattractive,
I still have to show it to its potential.â
FACTS
Andrej PejicÄwas born 28 August
1991 in Tuzla, Bosnia-Herzegovina
and is an Australian androgynous
model.
He was scouted just before his
17th birthday whilst working at
McDonaldâs.
In the Paris fashion shows of Janu-
ary 2011, Pejic walked both the
menâs and womenâs shows for Jean-
Paul Gaultier and the menâs shows
for Marc Jacobs.
As of September 2011, he ranks no.
18 on the models.com Top 50 Male
Models list, and he was ranked no.
98 in FHM magazineâs 100 Sexiest
Women in the World 2011.
âITâS A VERY LIBERAL
INDUSTRY. YOU CAN
BE YOURSELF. JUST
NOT OVERWEIGHTâ
30 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012