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APRIL/MAY 2012 | NOK150 DKK150 SEK 180
BECK MAGAZINE
N˚04
FOUNDER AND PUBLISHER LOUISE JUNGILD
PARTNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR LISA GJØNNES
EDITOR IN CHIEF MARIE LOUISE
ART DIRECTION + GRAPHIC DESIGN LISA GJØNNES
PHOTOGRAPHERS HEDI SLIMANE, CAROLINE BLOMST
CONTRIBUTORS LASSE LANGEDAL
TRANSLATIONS + CORRECTIONS LENA BERG
COVER LISA GJØNNES
PRINT ØIEN OG INDERGAARD
INFO@BECKMAGAZINE.COM
WWW.BECKMAGAZINE.COM
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/BECK
Beck Magazine is the ultimate in creative col-
laborations, showcasing a dynamic and diverse
array of ideas and talent. This bi-monthly pub-
lication presents an innovative collection of
fashion, photography, illustration and writings
from global contributors. In this months issue,
we present to you the following articles:
CONTENT
INTERVIEW WITH ANDREJ PEJIC
FASHIONSHOOT BY HEDI SLIMANE
ALL ABOUT FASHION WEEK
INTERVIEW WITH EMMANUELLE ALT
French Vogue’s editor, Emmanuelle Alt, buys her jeans
at Topshop. She also has a keen eye for the next big thing.
TEXT HILARY ALEXANDER
PHOTO STCHLMST.COM
APRIL/MAY 2012 | BECK | 98 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
She loathes exercise, has never been to
a gym, dismisses massages and facials,
and isn’t too bothered about her hair
and make-up. It would be hard to find a
fashionista who less fitted the image of
Mireille Guiliano’s 2005 bestseller about
eternal Parisienne chic, French Women
Don’t Get Fat, were it not for the fact
Emmanuelle Alt is as thin as a whippet.
She doesn’t carry the habitual front-row
“accessory” - a bottle of l’eau minerale.
“I don’t like water. I drink Diet Coke.”
Nor does she smoke, or drink alcohol or
even sip a “café.” There are times indeed
when French Vogue’s new editor-in-chief,
doubts she really is French.
Emmanuelle Alt as the new editor
Emmanuelle Alt has one accessory she
prizes above all others, and is currently
utilizing it to full effect. “C’est urgent,
urgent, urgent,” she commands into her
BlackBerry Bold. What exactly is so
urgent, who can say? As editor of French
Vogue since February, she likely has
a long list to choose from, juggling the
demands of running the show and also
contributing to the spectacle; Alt, who
was fashion director of the magazine for
a decade before her ascent after editor
Carine Roitfeld departed, still styles sit-
tings and covers. “I couldn’t only be an
office girl; I’d die,” she says. “I did this”
she picks up a copy of her June/July issue,
with Isabeli Fontana styled to look like
Linda Evangelista circa 1991.
“I don’t look after myself. I don’t do yoga,
Pilates, those things. I hate physical effort,
I don’t run anywhere, but I am super-
energetic. Make-up? I just black my eyes
and that’s it. My hair? I get it cut on set. I
never go to a hairdresser. I’m not sure I’m
French. You think I’m not smart enough?”
The rhetorical question matches Alt’s
drĂ´le, self-deprecating sense of humour.
Smart? She has it sewn up, and is as sharp
as the razor-heels on her favourite Gui-
seppi Zanotti ankle-boots.
Alt, 43, has epitomised rock ‘n’ roll style
re-born for the last decade. She is as far-
removed from the groomed, coiffed, mani-
cured and maquillaged image of The Devil
Wears Prada as Venus from Mars, albeit
her son, Antonin, 14, subscribes to Ameri-
can Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour’s
love of tennis and could probably take her
to match point.
Alt knows she has her part to play, sensing
that the shift in one of the most revered
forms of cultural expression in France has
to be signaled to the world via the pages
of her Vogue: “It is really strange, editng
the magazine; it’s like decorating an
apartment you have lived in for ten years
already,” she says. “I knew what I wanted
to change about it. I wanted to see things
with humor, to present ideas and pictures
that will make people laugh or smile. I am
a happy person,” she continues, “and I
don’t think people want bad news. It’s not
that everything we do is accessiblehaute
couture isn’t accessible, diamonds aren’t
accessible - but I want the girl they are
shown on to be real, identifiable, someone
you’d like to know.” That is echoed by one
of her long-term collaborators, the pho-
tographer Mario Sorrenti. “Emmanuelle
is not a dark person,” he says. “She cares
about positivity.”
“MY FIRST FIRST FASHIONSHOW WAS JEAN
PAUL GAULTIER, WHEN I WAS 19. IT WAS
CRAZY. I LOVED IT”
FACTS
Emmanuelle Alt was born
May 18th 1967 in Paris, and
is the editor-in-chief of Vogue
Paris since February 2011,
succeeding Carine Roitfeld.
Alt had been fashion director
of the magazine from 2000,
when Roitfeld assumed the
chief editor’s position and
hired Alt directly from Mixte
magazine.
Prior to Mixte, she held posi-
tions at French ELLE, starting
in 1984, when she was only
17 years old, and then at 20
she became the editor-in-chief
in 1993.
10 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
Alt is rarely seen in a skirt. Her “uniform”
is skinny jeans, from J Brand, Acne, or,
her favourite, Topshop; “I love Topshop.
When I go to London my first thing to do
is I put my stuff in the hotel and I run to
Topshop - they have the best jeans!”
She wears them with T-shirts, cashmere
sweaters from Ralph Lauren or Prada, a
Balmain jacket , a vintage fur, and those
spike-heeled boots. Nonchalant, cool chic
is the Alt attitude. Emmanuelle’s style is
always original, part street, part romantic,
very personal—and very French.
She inherited her fashion savvy, as well
as her height, gazelle-legs and camera-
ready looks from her mother, Françoise, a
Lanvin and Nina Ricci model in the 1960s
and 70s.
“When she stopped modelling, we would
go to fashion shows together. My first was
Jean Paul Gaultier, when I was 19. It was
crazy. I loved it.”
She surely could have followed in her
mother’s footsteps, but squashes that
thought immediately: “That’s not me.
I’m a big fan of photography, but it’s more
fun to style. I enjoy working on the inspira-
tion, and the everyday life of a magazine.”
Off-duty she loves spending time with her
partner, the art director, Franck Durand,
father of Antonin. She enjoys cooking, eat-
ing, family holidays in Corsica or Formen-
tera; driving is a passion; “I would love to
own a Porsche or a Jaguar, but I can’t
with the children. But I love fast cars. In
the summer we did a road-trip to Cali-
fornia; I did not let my husband take the
wheel once.”
Emmanuelle Alt on her love of driving
Alt began her career at French Elle, then
worked for 20ans, and alternative glossy,
Mixte. In 2001, she was hired as French
Vogue’s fashion director by her predecessor,
Carine Roitfeld; the two no longer speak.
Alt’s Vogue fashion shoots, together with
consulting for Isabel Marant and Balmain,
turned her into one of Planet Fashion’s
most recognizable icons. Now that she is
editor, the freelance styling stops, and
much of her styling for Vogue. But she
plans to do one fashion shoot a month.
She has no radical plans and says the
magazine won’t become “all rock ‘n’ roll.”
Emmanuelle Alt on the new direction
Her first issue, out in 10 days’ time, fea-
tures Brazilian beauty Gisele Bundchen,
the current “face” of Balenciaga, as the
cover girl.
“Of course, some things will change,
because we (ie. Roitfeld) have a different
eye. I would like to have more beauty,
more lifestyle. I want to use more young
designers. We should surprise every time,
otherwise it could be boring.”
An example is the recent haute couture
shoot she styled in London for the May
issue, with Kate Moss photographed by
the ace duo, Mert and Marcus. At the last
minute, she found a design by the relative
unknown, Julien Fournie, and added it to
the illustrious line-up of Givenchy, Yves
Saint Laurent, Dior, Chanel, and Alexan-
dre Vauthier creations. “It was a coup de
coeur.”
“I will try even more to support young de-
signers. I like to keep my curiosity up. The
industry is always waiting, begging for a
name. But it is rare to find a big ‘trésor’, so
you must keep looking.”
She proved her commitment by hosting
the first French Vogue platform for 10 new
talents, with an exhibition at The Crillon
Hotel, which opened last week, with Kate
Winslet as a guest of honour. The design-
ers’ work was displayed in a series of ta-
bleux designed by Vincent DarrĂŠ, amongst
stuffed crocodiles, a tiger’s head, skulls
and masks; alternative indeed.
Emmanuelle’s Alt-ernatives
Emmanuelle Alt was the woman who did
propelled Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin
onto the fashion radar. So who does she
have her eye on now?
Bouchra Jarrar, Alexandre Vauthier, Blue
Ancor, Anthony Vaccarello - “I think he
has a big future” - Julien Fournie, Maxime
Simoens, Olympia Le Tan, Louis Maxi-
mander, Haider Ackermann, Damir Doma.
“I WILL TRY EVEN
MORE TO SUPPORT
YOUNG DESIGNERS.
I LIKE TO KEEP MY
CURIOSITY UP”
Emmanuelle Alt has become
known for her laid-back rock
& roll style, which usually con-
sists of a few simple pieces like
tailored blazers, leather jackets,
the perfect skinny jeans and
ankle boots.
Emmanuelle pays close atten-
tion to detail and chooses piec-
es that fit her beautifully - her
jeans always just skim her body
and never stick to her figure,
while her timeless selection
of blazers are always slightly
oversized and boyish, playing
with her slender proportions.
Emmanuelle selects pieces
by the likes of Balmain when
looking to make a statement,
and always falls back on her
crisp white skinny jeans that
look tailor-made for the editor.
APRIL/MAY 2012 | BECK | 13
LONDON
London Fashion Week is or-
ganised by the British Fashion
Council for the London De-
velopment Agency with help
from the Department for Busi-
ness, Innovation and Skills,
London Fashion Week first
took place in 1984. It presents
itself to funders as a trade
event that also attracts signifi-
cant press attention and benefit
to taxpayers. It states that it is
attended by over 5,000 press
and buyers, and has estimated
orders of ÂŁ40m or ÂŁ100m.
A retail-focused event, London
Fashion Weekend, takes place
immediately afterwards at the
same venue and is open to the
general public.
NEW YORK
New York Fashion Week,
branded Mercedes-Benz Fash-
ionWeek in 2009.
The first New York Fashion
Week, which was then called
“Press Week” was the worlds’
first ever organized fash-
ion week.
First held in 1943, the event
was designed to attract atten-
tion away from the French
fashion during World War II,
when fashion industry insiders
were unable to travel to Paris
to see French fashion shows.
Fashion publicist Eleanor
Lambert organized an event
she called “Press Week” to
showcase American designers.
MILAN
Milan Fashion Week, was es-
tablished in 1958. The sched-
ule begins with New York,
followed by London, and then
Milan, and ending the events
in Paris.
The Milan Fashion Week is
owned by Camera Nazion-
ale della Moda Italiana, a
non profit association which
disciplines, co-ordinates and
promotes the development of
Italian Fashion and is respon-
sible for hosting the fashion
events and shows of Milan.
The "Camera Sindacale della
Moda Italiana", was set up on
11 June 1958. This was the
forerunner of the body which
subsequently became new.
PARIS
Paris Fashion Week is a famous
fashion week held semi-annually
in Paris, France with Spring/
Summer and Autumn/Winter
events held each year.
Dates are determined by the
French Fashion Federation.
Currently, the Fashion Week is
held in the Carrousel du Louvre.
In 2013 Paris Fashion Week
starts January 18 with Y Pro-
ject by Yohan Serfati, and will
be followed by shows from
major Fashion houses such
as Louis Vuitton, Comme des
Garcons Homme Homme,
Paul Smith and more. These
runway shows are held to ad-
vertise and to increase sales
for famous fashion designers.
ABOUT FASHION WEEK
A fashion week is a fashion industry event,
lasting approximately one week, which
allows fashion designers, brands or "hous-
es" to display their latest collections in
runway shows and buyers and the media
to take a look at the latest trends. Most im-
portantly, these events let the industry know
what's "in" and what's "out" for the season. The
most prominent fashion weeks are held in
the four fashion capitals of the world: New
York City, London, Milan, and Paris:
THE
INDUSTRY
EVENT
APRIL/MAY 2012 | BECK | 1716 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
PHOTOGRAPHY HEDI SLIMANE
STYLING RASHIA TOWN
MODEL ABBEY LEE KERSHAW
TEXT CHARLOTTE WILLIAMSON
PHOTOGRAPHY MERT AND MARCUS
The model that some are calling fashion’s new “it”
girl isn’t a girl at all. Andrej Pejic takes the indus-
try’s fascination with androgyny to a new extreme.
28 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
Pejic’s androgenous look is entirely
his own creation – today, for instance,
he’s wearing a light grey micro-mini
dress, thick black tights and biker boots.
“Around the age of 14, I decided to experi-
ment with my look,” he explains. “As a
kid, you get to the stage where you realise
the gender barriers that exist in society
and what you’re supposed to do and not
supposed to do. I really tried being some-
one else during that period. It was hard
for me – not being able to express myself
and feeling I had to be someone else.”
“But now I’m comfortable in my skin, and
for my look to be celebrated is great. My
look is very personal to me. When I started
experimenting, it was a personal decision
because I was unhappy. It wasn’t some-
thing I did for attention.”
What does remain intriguing, though, is
why designers would want a man model-
ling women’s clothes.
Originally from Bosnia – his mother is
Serbian, his father Croatian – Pejic was
born shortly before the start of the Balkan
conflict. His family moved to Serbia and,
when he was eight, to Melbourne, Aus-
tralia.
Pejic was spotted shortly before his seven-
teenth birthday. “I was working in McDon-
ald’s part time, and this guy came in – he
wanted a cheeseburger. He then told me to
see him at his modelling agency.”
His friends and family have been sup-
portive throughout. I’ve always been
experimental. So they aren’t surprised.
Obviously, they were surprised to see me.
Andrej Pejic is the in-demand model cut-
ting a dash at London Fashion Week – in
women’s wear.
Tall and impossibly skinny, with impec-
cably arched eyebrows and cheekbones
sharp as diamonds: on first impression,
fashion’s latest darling looks no different
to any of the other freaks of nature gliding
through the offices of Storm model agency.
Except this season’s most-wanted model
isn’t, for once, a she – it’s a he.
In an industry obsessed with the new,
fashion has certainly found it with Andrej
Pejic. Last month, the 19-year-old a
ready something of a name in menswear-
caused a stir when he modelled womens-
wear for the Paris couture shows; he
even wore a wedding dress for Jean
Paul Gaultier.
Right now, Pejic is very much in demand.
As well as editorials with prestigious
photographers such as Steven Meisel and
Mert & Marcus for Paris and Italian Vogue,
he is the gender-bending face of the new
advertising campaign for Marc by Marc
Jacobs. Tonight he will be back in wom-
en’s clothing, modelling on the catwalk
for Vivienne Westwood as part of London
Fashion Week.
So which does he prefer – men’s or wom-
en’s? “I’m comfortable doing both,” he
says, “although womenswear is more
glamorous. The clothes are more exciting.
In menswear I have to work more at hav-
ing a masculine presence. But then that’s
my job. If they put me in, say, a rubbish
bag and I feel completely unattractive,
I still have to show it to its potential.”
FACTS
Andrej Pejicćwas born 28 August
1991 in Tuzla, Bosnia-Herzegovina
and is an Australian androgynous
model.
He was scouted just before his
17th birthday whilst working at
McDonald’s.
In the Paris fashion shows of Janu-
ary 2011, Pejic walked both the
men’s and women’s shows for Jean-
Paul Gaultier and the men’s shows
for Marc Jacobs.
As of September 2011, he ranks no.
18 on the models.com Top 50 Male
Models list, and he was ranked no.
98 in FHM magazine’s 100 Sexiest
Women in the World 2011.
“IT’S A VERY LIBERAL
INDUSTRY. YOU CAN
BE YOURSELF. JUST
NOT OVERWEIGHT”
30 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
Beck Magazine 2012
Beck Magazine 2012

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Beck Magazine 2012

  • 1. APRIL/MAY 2012 | NOK150 DKK150 SEK 180
  • 2.
  • 3. BECK MAGAZINE N˚04 FOUNDER AND PUBLISHER LOUISE JUNGILD PARTNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR LISA GJØNNES EDITOR IN CHIEF MARIE LOUISE ART DIRECTION + GRAPHIC DESIGN LISA GJØNNES PHOTOGRAPHERS HEDI SLIMANE, CAROLINE BLOMST CONTRIBUTORS LASSE LANGEDAL TRANSLATIONS + CORRECTIONS LENA BERG COVER LISA GJØNNES PRINT ØIEN OG INDERGAARD INFO@BECKMAGAZINE.COM WWW.BECKMAGAZINE.COM WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/BECK Beck Magazine is the ultimate in creative col- laborations, showcasing a dynamic and diverse array of ideas and talent. This bi-monthly pub- lication presents an innovative collection of fashion, photography, illustration and writings from global contributors. In this months issue, we present to you the following articles: CONTENT INTERVIEW WITH ANDREJ PEJIC FASHIONSHOOT BY HEDI SLIMANE ALL ABOUT FASHION WEEK INTERVIEW WITH EMMANUELLE ALT
  • 4. French Vogue’s editor, Emmanuelle Alt, buys her jeans at Topshop. She also has a keen eye for the next big thing. TEXT HILARY ALEXANDER PHOTO STCHLMST.COM APRIL/MAY 2012 | BECK | 98 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
  • 5. She loathes exercise, has never been to a gym, dismisses massages and facials, and isn’t too bothered about her hair and make-up. It would be hard to find a fashionista who less fitted the image of Mireille Guiliano’s 2005 bestseller about eternal Parisienne chic, French Women Don’t Get Fat, were it not for the fact Emmanuelle Alt is as thin as a whippet. She doesn’t carry the habitual front-row “accessory” - a bottle of l’eau minerale. “I don’t like water. I drink Diet Coke.” Nor does she smoke, or drink alcohol or even sip a “cafĂŠ.” There are times indeed when French Vogue’s new editor-in-chief, doubts she really is French. Emmanuelle Alt as the new editor Emmanuelle Alt has one accessory she prizes above all others, and is currently utilizing it to full effect. “C’est urgent, urgent, urgent,” she commands into her BlackBerry Bold. What exactly is so urgent, who can say? As editor of French Vogue since February, she likely has a long list to choose from, juggling the demands of running the show and also contributing to the spectacle; Alt, who was fashion director of the magazine for a decade before her ascent after editor Carine Roitfeld departed, still styles sit- tings and covers. “I couldn’t only be an office girl; I’d die,” she says. “I did this” she picks up a copy of her June/July issue, with Isabeli Fontana styled to look like Linda Evangelista circa 1991. “I don’t look after myself. I don’t do yoga, Pilates, those things. I hate physical effort, I don’t run anywhere, but I am super- energetic. Make-up? I just black my eyes and that’s it. My hair? I get it cut on set. I never go to a hairdresser. I’m not sure I’m French. You think I’m not smart enough?” The rhetorical question matches Alt’s drĂ´le, self-deprecating sense of humour. Smart? She has it sewn up, and is as sharp as the razor-heels on her favourite Gui- seppi Zanotti ankle-boots. Alt, 43, has epitomised rock ‘n’ roll style re-born for the last decade. She is as far- removed from the groomed, coiffed, mani- cured and maquillaged image of The Devil Wears Prada as Venus from Mars, albeit her son, Antonin, 14, subscribes to Ameri- can Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour’s love of tennis and could probably take her to match point. Alt knows she has her part to play, sensing that the shift in one of the most revered forms of cultural expression in France has to be signaled to the world via the pages of her Vogue: “It is really strange, editng the magazine; it’s like decorating an apartment you have lived in for ten years already,” she says. “I knew what I wanted to change about it. I wanted to see things with humor, to present ideas and pictures that will make people laugh or smile. I am a happy person,” she continues, “and I don’t think people want bad news. It’s not that everything we do is accessiblehaute couture isn’t accessible, diamonds aren’t accessible - but I want the girl they are shown on to be real, identifiable, someone you’d like to know.” That is echoed by one of her long-term collaborators, the pho- tographer Mario Sorrenti. “Emmanuelle is not a dark person,” he says. “She cares about positivity.” “MY FIRST FIRST FASHIONSHOW WAS JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, WHEN I WAS 19. IT WAS CRAZY. I LOVED IT” FACTS Emmanuelle Alt was born May 18th 1967 in Paris, and is the editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris since February 2011, succeeding Carine Roitfeld. Alt had been fashion director of the magazine from 2000, when Roitfeld assumed the chief editor’s position and hired Alt directly from Mixte magazine. Prior to Mixte, she held posi- tions at French ELLE, starting in 1984, when she was only 17 years old, and then at 20 she became the editor-in-chief in 1993. 10 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
  • 6. Alt is rarely seen in a skirt. Her “uniform” is skinny jeans, from J Brand, Acne, or, her favourite, Topshop; “I love Topshop. When I go to London my first thing to do is I put my stuff in the hotel and I run to Topshop - they have the best jeans!” She wears them with T-shirts, cashmere sweaters from Ralph Lauren or Prada, a Balmain jacket , a vintage fur, and those spike-heeled boots. Nonchalant, cool chic is the Alt attitude. Emmanuelle’s style is always original, part street, part romantic, very personal—and very French. She inherited her fashion savvy, as well as her height, gazelle-legs and camera- ready looks from her mother, Françoise, a Lanvin and Nina Ricci model in the 1960s and 70s. “When she stopped modelling, we would go to fashion shows together. My first was Jean Paul Gaultier, when I was 19. It was crazy. I loved it.” She surely could have followed in her mother’s footsteps, but squashes that thought immediately: “That’s not me. I’m a big fan of photography, but it’s more fun to style. I enjoy working on the inspira- tion, and the everyday life of a magazine.” Off-duty she loves spending time with her partner, the art director, Franck Durand, father of Antonin. She enjoys cooking, eat- ing, family holidays in Corsica or Formen- tera; driving is a passion; “I would love to own a Porsche or a Jaguar, but I can’t with the children. But I love fast cars. In the summer we did a road-trip to Cali- fornia; I did not let my husband take the wheel once.” Emmanuelle Alt on her love of driving Alt began her career at French Elle, then worked for 20ans, and alternative glossy, Mixte. In 2001, she was hired as French Vogue’s fashion director by her predecessor, Carine Roitfeld; the two no longer speak. Alt’s Vogue fashion shoots, together with consulting for Isabel Marant and Balmain, turned her into one of Planet Fashion’s most recognizable icons. Now that she is editor, the freelance styling stops, and much of her styling for Vogue. But she plans to do one fashion shoot a month. She has no radical plans and says the magazine won’t become “all rock ‘n’ roll.” Emmanuelle Alt on the new direction Her first issue, out in 10 days’ time, fea- tures Brazilian beauty Gisele Bundchen, the current “face” of Balenciaga, as the cover girl. “Of course, some things will change, because we (ie. Roitfeld) have a different eye. I would like to have more beauty, more lifestyle. I want to use more young designers. We should surprise every time, otherwise it could be boring.” An example is the recent haute couture shoot she styled in London for the May issue, with Kate Moss photographed by the ace duo, Mert and Marcus. At the last minute, she found a design by the relative unknown, Julien Fournie, and added it to the illustrious line-up of Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Chanel, and Alexan- dre Vauthier creations. “It was a coup de coeur.” “I will try even more to support young de- signers. I like to keep my curiosity up. The industry is always waiting, begging for a name. But it is rare to find a big ‘trĂŠsor’, so you must keep looking.” She proved her commitment by hosting the first French Vogue platform for 10 new talents, with an exhibition at The Crillon Hotel, which opened last week, with Kate Winslet as a guest of honour. The design- ers’ work was displayed in a series of ta- bleux designed by Vincent DarrĂŠ, amongst stuffed crocodiles, a tiger’s head, skulls and masks; alternative indeed. Emmanuelle’s Alt-ernatives Emmanuelle Alt was the woman who did propelled Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin onto the fashion radar. So who does she have her eye on now? Bouchra Jarrar, Alexandre Vauthier, Blue Ancor, Anthony Vaccarello - “I think he has a big future” - Julien Fournie, Maxime Simoens, Olympia Le Tan, Louis Maxi- mander, Haider Ackermann, Damir Doma. “I WILL TRY EVEN MORE TO SUPPORT YOUNG DESIGNERS. I LIKE TO KEEP MY CURIOSITY UP” Emmanuelle Alt has become known for her laid-back rock & roll style, which usually con- sists of a few simple pieces like tailored blazers, leather jackets, the perfect skinny jeans and ankle boots. Emmanuelle pays close atten- tion to detail and chooses piec- es that fit her beautifully - her jeans always just skim her body and never stick to her figure, while her timeless selection of blazers are always slightly oversized and boyish, playing with her slender proportions. Emmanuelle selects pieces by the likes of Balmain when looking to make a statement, and always falls back on her crisp white skinny jeans that look tailor-made for the editor. APRIL/MAY 2012 | BECK | 13
  • 7.
  • 8. LONDON London Fashion Week is or- ganised by the British Fashion Council for the London De- velopment Agency with help from the Department for Busi- ness, Innovation and Skills, London Fashion Week first took place in 1984. It presents itself to funders as a trade event that also attracts signifi- cant press attention and benefit to taxpayers. It states that it is attended by over 5,000 press and buyers, and has estimated orders of ÂŁ40m or ÂŁ100m. A retail-focused event, London Fashion Weekend, takes place immediately afterwards at the same venue and is open to the general public. NEW YORK New York Fashion Week, branded Mercedes-Benz Fash- ionWeek in 2009. The first New York Fashion Week, which was then called “Press Week” was the worlds’ first ever organized fash- ion week. First held in 1943, the event was designed to attract atten- tion away from the French fashion during World War II, when fashion industry insiders were unable to travel to Paris to see French fashion shows. Fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert organized an event she called “Press Week” to showcase American designers. MILAN Milan Fashion Week, was es- tablished in 1958. The sched- ule begins with New York, followed by London, and then Milan, and ending the events in Paris. The Milan Fashion Week is owned by Camera Nazion- ale della Moda Italiana, a non profit association which disciplines, co-ordinates and promotes the development of Italian Fashion and is respon- sible for hosting the fashion events and shows of Milan. The "Camera Sindacale della Moda Italiana", was set up on 11 June 1958. This was the forerunner of the body which subsequently became new. PARIS Paris Fashion Week is a famous fashion week held semi-annually in Paris, France with Spring/ Summer and Autumn/Winter events held each year. Dates are determined by the French Fashion Federation. Currently, the Fashion Week is held in the Carrousel du Louvre. In 2013 Paris Fashion Week starts January 18 with Y Pro- ject by Yohan Serfati, and will be followed by shows from major Fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton, Comme des Garcons Homme Homme, Paul Smith and more. These runway shows are held to ad- vertise and to increase sales for famous fashion designers. ABOUT FASHION WEEK A fashion week is a fashion industry event, lasting approximately one week, which allows fashion designers, brands or "hous- es" to display their latest collections in runway shows and buyers and the media to take a look at the latest trends. Most im- portantly, these events let the industry know what's "in" and what's "out" for the season. The most prominent fashion weeks are held in the four fashion capitals of the world: New York City, London, Milan, and Paris: THE INDUSTRY EVENT APRIL/MAY 2012 | BECK | 1716 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
  • 9.
  • 10. PHOTOGRAPHY HEDI SLIMANE STYLING RASHIA TOWN MODEL ABBEY LEE KERSHAW
  • 11.
  • 12.
  • 13.
  • 14. TEXT CHARLOTTE WILLIAMSON PHOTOGRAPHY MERT AND MARCUS The model that some are calling fashion’s new “it” girl isn’t a girl at all. Andrej Pejic takes the indus- try’s fascination with androgyny to a new extreme. 28 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012
  • 15. Pejic’s androgenous look is entirely his own creation – today, for instance, he’s wearing a light grey micro-mini dress, thick black tights and biker boots. “Around the age of 14, I decided to experi- ment with my look,” he explains. “As a kid, you get to the stage where you realise the gender barriers that exist in society and what you’re supposed to do and not supposed to do. I really tried being some- one else during that period. It was hard for me – not being able to express myself and feeling I had to be someone else.” “But now I’m comfortable in my skin, and for my look to be celebrated is great. My look is very personal to me. When I started experimenting, it was a personal decision because I was unhappy. It wasn’t some- thing I did for attention.” What does remain intriguing, though, is why designers would want a man model- ling women’s clothes. Originally from Bosnia – his mother is Serbian, his father Croatian – Pejic was born shortly before the start of the Balkan conflict. His family moved to Serbia and, when he was eight, to Melbourne, Aus- tralia. Pejic was spotted shortly before his seven- teenth birthday. “I was working in McDon- ald’s part time, and this guy came in – he wanted a cheeseburger. He then told me to see him at his modelling agency.” His friends and family have been sup- portive throughout. I’ve always been experimental. So they aren’t surprised. Obviously, they were surprised to see me. Andrej Pejic is the in-demand model cut- ting a dash at London Fashion Week – in women’s wear. Tall and impossibly skinny, with impec- cably arched eyebrows and cheekbones sharp as diamonds: on first impression, fashion’s latest darling looks no different to any of the other freaks of nature gliding through the offices of Storm model agency. Except this season’s most-wanted model isn’t, for once, a she – it’s a he. In an industry obsessed with the new, fashion has certainly found it with Andrej Pejic. Last month, the 19-year-old a ready something of a name in menswear- caused a stir when he modelled womens- wear for the Paris couture shows; he even wore a wedding dress for Jean Paul Gaultier. Right now, Pejic is very much in demand. As well as editorials with prestigious photographers such as Steven Meisel and Mert & Marcus for Paris and Italian Vogue, he is the gender-bending face of the new advertising campaign for Marc by Marc Jacobs. Tonight he will be back in wom- en’s clothing, modelling on the catwalk for Vivienne Westwood as part of London Fashion Week. So which does he prefer – men’s or wom- en’s? “I’m comfortable doing both,” he says, “although womenswear is more glamorous. The clothes are more exciting. In menswear I have to work more at hav- ing a masculine presence. But then that’s my job. If they put me in, say, a rubbish bag and I feel completely unattractive, I still have to show it to its potential.” FACTS Andrej Pejicćwas born 28 August 1991 in Tuzla, Bosnia-Herzegovina and is an Australian androgynous model. He was scouted just before his 17th birthday whilst working at McDonald’s. In the Paris fashion shows of Janu- ary 2011, Pejic walked both the men’s and women’s shows for Jean- Paul Gaultier and the men’s shows for Marc Jacobs. As of September 2011, he ranks no. 18 on the models.com Top 50 Male Models list, and he was ranked no. 98 in FHM magazine’s 100 Sexiest Women in the World 2011. “IT’S A VERY LIBERAL INDUSTRY. YOU CAN BE YOURSELF. JUST NOT OVERWEIGHT” 30 | BECK | APRIL/MAY 2012